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Hioliographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


23  WB7  MAIN  STRUT 

WIUTIR,N.Y.  t4SM 

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CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHIVI/ICIVIH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  MIcroreproductions  /  Instltut  Canadian  da  microraproductions  historlquas 


Tachnical  and  Bibliographic  Notaa/Notas  tachniquaa  at  bibiiographiquaa 


to 


TIta  Inatituta  haa  attamptad  to  obtain  tha  baat 
original  copy  availabia  for  filming.  Faaturaa  of  thia 
copy  wliich  may  ba  bibiiographically  uniqua. 
which  may  aKar  any  of  tha  imagaa  In  tha 
raproductlon,  or  which  may  aigniflcantly  changa 
tha  uaual  mathod  of  filming,  ara  chackad  baiow. 


□    Colourad  covara/ 
Couvartura  da  coulaur 


I     I   Covara  damagad/ 


D 


Couvartura  andommagAa 

Covara  raatorad  and/or  laminatad/ 
Couvartura  raatauria  at/ou  palliculAa 


I — I   Covar  titia  miaaing/ 


La  titra  da  couvartura  manqua 

Coloured  mapa/ 

Cartaa  gAographiquaa  an  coulaur 

Colourad  inic  (i.a.  othar  than  blua  or  black)/ 
Encra  da  coulaur  (I.a.  autra  qua  blaua  ou  noira) 


□   Colourad  plataa  and/or  iiluatrationa/ 
Planchaa  at/ou  Iiluatrationa  an  coulaur 

□    Bound  with  othar  material/ 
RailA  avac  d'autraa  documents 


0 


□ 


Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

La  re  liure  serr^e  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distortion  la  long  de  la  marge  intArieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certainas  pages  blanches  ajoutiea 
lore  d'une  restauration  apparaiaaant  dans  la  texte, 
mais,  loraqua  cela  Atait  possible,  ces  pagea  n'ont 
pas  AtA  f  llmAas. 


L'Inatltut  a  microfilm*  la  mailleur  exemplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  AtA  poaaibia  da  se  procurer.  Les  details 
da  cet  exemplaire  qui  aont  paut-Atre  uniquaa  du 
point  da  vua  bibliographiquft,  qui  pauvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  mithoda  normala  de  f ilmage 
aont  Indiqute  ci-dassous. 


I      I   Coloured  pagea/ 


Pagea  da  coulaur 

Pagea  damaged/ 
Pagea  endommag6as 

Pagea  restored  and/oi 

Pages  restauries  at/ou  paliiculAes 

Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxe( 
Pages  dAcolor^es,  tacheties  ou  piqutes 

Pagea  detached/ 
Pages  d6tachtes 


r~1  Pagea  damaged/ 

I      I  Pagea  restored  and/or  laminated/ 

r~~V  Pagea  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 

I      I  Pagea  detached/ 


Th 
po 
of 
fiir 


Ori 
ba( 
the 
sioi 
oth 
firs 
sioi 
or 


^ 


Showthrough/ 
Transparence 


I      I   Quality  of  print  varies/ 


Quality  inAgale  de  I'impression 

Includes  supplementary  material/ 
Comprend  du  material  suppl^mantaira 

Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Mition  diaponibla 


The 
aha 
TIN 
whi 

Ma 

diff 

enti 

beg 

righ 

reqi 

met 


D 


Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  refilmed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partiallemeiit 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata,  une  pelure, 
etc.,  ont  M  fiimtes  A  nouveau  de  fapon  A 
obtenir  la  meiiieure  image  possible. 


0 


Additional  commanta:/ 


Various  paoings*  Wrinkled  pages  may  film  slightly  out  of  focus. 


Commentaires  supplAmentaires: 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  eat  film*  au  taux  de  rMuction  indiquA  ci-deaaoua. 

10X  14X  18X  22X 


20X 


XX 


y 


12X 


16X 


20X 


24X 


28X 


32X 


'-y^^     .;5»)B»»ia^ 


Th«  copy  filmMi  h«r«  has  bMin  r«procluc«d  thanks 
to  th«  oonarotity  of: 

U  BiMiotMqiM  (to  to  Vilto  (to  MontrM 


L'axamplaira  f ilm4  fut  raproduit  griea  i  la 
g4n4rosM  da: 

U  BiMiothiqut  d«  to  Vilto  dt  Montrfal 


Tha  imagaa  appaaring  hara  ara  tha  bast  quality 
posslbia  considaring  tha  condition  and  laglblllty 
off  tha  original  copy  and  In  kaaping  with  tha 
ffilnning  contract  spaclfflcatlons. 


Las  Imagas  sulvantas  ont  4tA  raprodultas  avac  la 
plus  grand  soln,  compta  tanu  da  la  condition  at 
da  la  nattat*  da  l'axamplaira  ffllmA.  at  an 
conformit*  avac  las  conditions  du  contrat  da 
fllmaga. 


Original  coplas  In  printad  papar  covars  ara  f llmad 
baginning  with  tha  ffront  covar  and  anding  on 
tha  last  paga  with  a  printad  or  lllustratad  Impras- 
slon.  or  tha  back  covar  whan  approprlata.  All 
othar  original  coplas  ara  f llmad  baginning  on  tha 
first  paga  with  a  printad  or  lllustratad  Impras- 
slon,  and  anding  on  tha  last  paga  with  a  printad 
or  lllustratad  imprasslon. 


Las  axamplairas  origlnaux  dont  la  couvartura  an 
papiar  ast  ImprimAa  sont  ffiimAs  an  comman9ant 
par  la  pramiar  plat  at  an  tarmlnant  salt  par  la 
darnlAra  paga  qui  comporta  una  amprainta 
d'impraaslon  ou  d'lllustratlon,  solt  par  la  sacond 
plat,  salon  la  cas.  Tous  las  autras  axamplairas 
origlnaux  sont  ffilmis  an  commandant  par  la 
pramlAra  paga  qui  comporta  una  amprainta 
d'imprasslon  ou  d'lllustration  at  an  tarmlnant  par 
la  darnlAra  paga  qui  comporta  una  talia 
amprainta. 


Tha  last  racordad  frama  on  aach  microficha 
Shalt  contain  tha  symbol  — »>  (moaning  "CON- 
TINUED "),  or  tha  symbol  ▼  (moaning  "END"), 
whichavar  applias. 


Un  das  symboias  suivants  apparattra  sur  la 
darnlAra  imaga  da  chaqua  microficha,  salon  la 
cas:  la  symbols  — ►  signifia  "A  8UIVRE",  la 
symbols  ▼  signifia  "FIN". 


Maps,  platas,  charts,  ate,  may  ba  f llmad  at 
diffarant  raduction  ratios.  Thosa  too  larga  to  ba 
antiraly  included  in  ona  axposura  ara  ffilmad 
baginning  in  tha  uppar  lafft  hand  cornar,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  framas  as 
required .  The  following  diagrams  Illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  cartas,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  Atre 
fllmfo  h  des  taux  de  rMuction  difffArents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  Atre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  cllcht,  II  est  ffllmA  h  partir 
de  I'angle  supArieur  gauche,  de  gauche  A  drolte, 
et  de  haut  an  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  nAcesseire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
lllustrent  la  mAthode. 


1  2  3 


32X 


1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

Pv/- 


y^Liy..^^^/^ 


AN  ACCOUNT  OF  EXPEDITIONS 


TO  THX 


fbwvttfi  tit  tDe  iS^iisissipifi, 


AVD  THBOVOH  TBB 


WESTERN  PARTS  OF  LOUISIANA, 


TO  THE  «0VRCB8  Or  TBB 


ARKANSAW,  KANS,  LA  PLATTE,  AND  PIERRE 

JAUN,  RIVi;RSj 


■\, <■■:■'' 


ifift' 


:     SEKVOBMBD    BT  ORbBR  OV  TBB 

GovEjmMEfrr  of  the  united  states 

DUBZNO  TBB  TEARS  1805,  1806,  AND  1807. 

AND  A  TOUR  THROUGH 


TBB 

INtEmOk  PARTS  OF  NEW  SPAIN, 

'    WBBH  COBDVCTBB  TBBOy^PB  TBBItB  rBOVINCES, 

aroaoKs  OP 
THE  CAPIAIN-OENERAL, 

IN  TBB  TBAR  1807. 


By  Major  Z.  M.  PIKE. 


ILLUSTRATED  BY  MAPS  AJ^D  CHARTS. 


PHILADELPHIA: 

f  UPLISHBD  BT  C.^i||  COKBAD,  8c  Co.  Ko.  30,  CBESNVT  STRUT.  SOSftR- 
VBLt  fc  CONRJ^i^BSBimaH.  BOBSAL,  COHBAD,  lc  Co.  NORFOCK, 
AND  riBLDING  LVCA|»  Ar.  BALTDIORB. 

J^mni,  FHliter....piw. 


'fA 


o 


li' 


wi  '  ■ 


BE  IT  REMEMBERED,  that  on  the  seventh  day  of  June,  in 
the  thirty-second  year  of  the  indejilendlnce  of  the  United  States  of 
America^  A.  D.  1808,  Z.  M.  Pike  ofthesud  district,  hath  deposited 
inthi&c^ee,th'etitiedfabb»k,  tlfei^gttt  ^«^6fh«l^a^%«Mi-* 
thor,  in  the  words  followfilig, 'to  Wik  : 

«  utn  account  qf  exfie^LHonf  to  the  aourcea  of  the  Mutitaififiiy  and 
through  the  toeatem  fmrta  <if  Louisiana,  to  the  aourcea.  qf  the  Arkan- 
saw,  JKon*,  Lk  Pthitcy  arid  Pie'rte  Jauny  'riOe¥a.  T^eifdM^dlfy^  ^rder 
of  the  government  qfthe  United  Statea,  during  the  yeara  1805,  1806, 
and  1 807.  And  a  tour  through  the  iraeridrfim^ta  fff'^/eib  Spain,  when 
conducted  through  theae  firovincea,  by  order  <fthe  cafitain-general  in 
the  year  1807.  By  major  Z.  M.  Pike.  lUuatrated  by  mafia  and 
charta:*  ' 

In  conformity  to  the  Act  of  Congress  of  the  United  ^MaCes,  in- 
tituled,"  An  Act  for  the  Encouragement  of  Learning,  by  securing 
the  Copies  of  Mlips,  Cb&fts,  ifld  Books,  to  YKe  Aifthdrs  and  Pro- 
prietors of  such  Coiues  during  the  times  therein  mentioned."  Ani||' 
also  to  the  Act,  entitled  <<  An  Act  supplementary  to  an  Act,  en- 
titled, "^  An  Act  for  tlie  Eneotfi^tteiht  6f  tfeWiflng,  by  securing 
the  Copies  of  Maps,  Charts,  and  Books,  to  the  Authors  and  Proprie- 
tors of  such  Copies  during  the  (ifhe  therein  mentioned}"  and  ex- 
tending the  Benefits  thereof  to  the  Arts  of  designing,  engraving, 
Aid  etching  historical  an'd  other  Prints." 

D.  CALDWEtL,  Clerk  of  the 

Statrict  of  Pennsylvania, 


TO  THE  PUBLIC. 


BOOKS  of  travels,  journals  and  voyages,  have  become  so 
numerous,  and  are  so  frequently  impositions  on  the  public,  that  the 
writer  of  the  following  sheets  feels  under  an  obligation  to  explain,  in 
some  measure,  the  original  circumstances  that  led  to  the  produc- 
tion of  this  volume.  Soon  after  the  purchase  of  Louijiiana,  by  an 
enlightened  administration,  measures  were  taken  to  explore  the 
then  unknown  wilds  of  our  western  country,  measures  founded  on 
principles  of  scientific  pursuits,  combined  with  a  view  of  entering 
into  a  chain  of  phllantrophic  arrangements  for  meliorating  the  con- 
dition of  the  Indians  who  inhabit  those  vast  plains  and  deserts.  His 
excellency,  Meniivether  Lewis,  then  a  captain  of  the  first  regiment 
of  infantry,  was  selected  by  the  President  of  the  United  States,  in  con* 
junction  with  capt.  C.  Clarke,  to  explore  the  then  unknown  sources 
of  the  Missouri,  and  I  was  chosen  to  trace  the  Mississippi  to  its 
source,  with  the  objects  in  view  contemplated  by  my  instructions ; 
to  \rhich  I  conceived  my  duty,  as  a  soldier  should  induce  me,  to  add 
an  investigation  into  the  views  of  the  British  traders  in  that  quarter, 
as  to  trade,  and  an  enquiry  into  the  limits  of  the  territories  of  the 
United  States  and  Great  Britain.  As  a  man  of  humanity  and  feel- 
ing, I  made  use  of  the  name  of  my  government  to  stop  the  savage 
warfare  which  had  for  ages  been  carried  on  by  two  of  the  most  pow- 
erful nations  of  Aborigines  in  North  America.  Why  I  did  not  exe- 
cute the  power  vested  in  me  by  the  laws  of  the  country,  to  ruin  the 
British  traders  and  enrich  myself,  by  seizing  on  the  immense  pro- 
perty of  the  North,  West  company,  which  I  found  in  the  acknow- 
ledged boundary  Wtbe  United  States,  will  be  explained  by  my  let- 
ter to  Hugh  M'GillisjXsq.  to  whom  I  owe  eternal  gratitude  fur  his 
polite  and  hospitable  i^atment  of  myself  and  parly. 


c 


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In  the  execution  of  this  voyage  I  had  no  gentjieman  to  aid  met 
and  I  literally  performed  the  duties  (as  fai*  as  my  limited  abilities 
permitted)  of  astronomer,  surveyor,  commanding  officer,  clerk,  spy, 
j^uide,  and  hunter  ;  frequently  preceding  the  party  for  miles,  in  or- 
der to  reconnoitre,  and  returning  in  the  evening,  hungry  and  fiitigued, 
to  sit  down  in  the  open  air,  by  fire  light,  to  copy  the  notes  and  plot 
the  courses  of  the  day.  On  my  return  from  the  Mississippi  voyage, 
preparations  were  making  for  a  second,  which  was  to  be  conduct- 
ed by  another  gentleman  of  the  army ;  but  general  Wilkinson  so- 
licited as  a  favor  that  (which  he  had  a  right  to  command)  viz.  that 
I  would  agree  to  take  charge  of  the  expedition.  The  late  dangers 
and  hardships  I  had  undergone,  together  with  the  idea  of  again  leuv- 
int;  my  family  in  a  strange  country,  distant  from  their  connections, 
made  me  hesitate;  but. the  amUtion  of  a  soldier,  and  the  spirit  of 
entcrprize,  which  was  inherent  in  my  breast,  induced  me  to  agree 
to  his  proposition.  The  great  objects  in  view  by  this  expedition  (as 
I  conceived)  in  addition  to  my  instructions,  were  to  attach  the  Indians 
to  our  government,  and  to  acquire  such  geographical  knowledge  of 
the  south-western  boundary  of  Louisiana  as  to  enable  government  to 
enter  into  a  definitive  arrangement  for  a  line  of  demarkation  be- 
tween that  territory  and  North  Mexico. 

In  this  expedition  I  had  tlie  assistance  of  lieutenant  Joinet  WyU 
Hwan^vcA  also  of  doctor  John  H.  Robinaon^  a  young  gentleman  of 
science  and  enterprize,  who  yolunteered  his  services.  I  also  was 
fitted  out  with  a  complete  set  of  astronomical  and  mathematical  in* 
atruments,  which  enabled  me  to  ascertain  the  geographical  situation 
of  various  places  to  a  degree  of  exactitude,  that  would  have  been  ex- 
tremely gratifying  to  all  lovers  of  science,  had  I  not  been  so  unfor- 
tunate as  to  loose  the  greater  part  ot  my  papers  by  the  seizure  of 
the  Spanish  government. 

Wiih  resnect  to  the  great  acquisitions  which  might  have  been 
made  to  the  sciences  of  botany  and  zoology,  I  can  only  observe,  that 
neither  my  education  nor  taste  led  me  to  the  pursuit,  and  if  they 
bad,  my  mind  was  too  much  engrossed  in  making  the  arrangements 
i'or  our  subsistance  and  safety,  to  give  time  to  Scrutinize  the  produc- 
tions of  the  countries  over  which  we  travelled,  with  the  eye  of  a  Lin- 
naeus or  Buffon,  yet  doctor  Robinson  did  make  some  observations 
on  those  subjects  which  he  has  not  yet  communicated.  With  re- 
spect to  the  Spaf)j:iih  part,  it  has  been  suggeat||j|||^  me  by  some  re- 
spected friends,  that  the  picture  I  drew  of  the  manners,  morals,  kc. 
of  individuals,  generally  of  New  Spain,if  a  g^  likeness  was  certain- 
ly not  making  a  proper  return  for  the  hoapi|ilIity  and  kindness  with 


L 


] 


eminent  to 


which  those  people  honored  me ;  those  reasons  have  induced  me  to 
omit  many  transactions,  and  draw  a  veil  over  various  habits  and  cttt» 
toms  which  might  appear  in  an  unfavorable  point  of  vieW)  at  the 
same  time  that  I  have  dwelt  with  delight  on  their  virtues. 

There  has  not  been  wantingi  persons  ofvarieus  rankst  who  have 
endeavored  to  infuse  the  idea  into  the  minds  of  the  public,  that  the 
last  voyage  was  undertaken  through  some  sinister  deugns  of  gene- 
ral Wilkinson ;  and  although  this  report  has  been  amply  refuted  by 
two  letters  from  the  secretary  of  war,  published  with  this  work}  yet 
I  cannnot  forbear  in  this  public  manner,  declaring  the  insinuation  to 
be  a  groundUu  calumny^  arising  from  the  envenomed  breasts  of  per- 
sons, who  through  enmity  to  the  general,  would  in  attempting  his 
ruin,  hurl  destruction  on  all  those,  who  cither  through  their  official 
stations  or  habits  of  friendship,  ever  had  any  connection  with  that 
gentleman. 

As  a  military  man— as  a  sbldier  from  the  time  I  was  able  to 
bear  arms,  it  cannot  be  expected  that  a  production  of  my  pen  can 
stand  the  test  of  criticism,  and  I  hope  by  this  candid  appeal  to  the 
justice  and  indulgence  of  the  lebmed,  to  induce  them,  to  spare 
their  censure  if  they  cannot  award  their  pruse. 

The  gentleman  who  prints  this  work,  knows  under  what  a  va- 
riety of  disadvantages  it  has  gone  to  the  press.*  At  a  distance  dur- 
ing its  publication,  and  etagaged  in  my  professbnal  duties,  it  was 
impossible  to  give  to  it  that  attention,  which  in  order  to  reach  its 
proper  degree  of  correctness  such  a  work  necessarily  would  require. 
(Signed)  Z.  M.  PIKE. 


•  THE  PUBLISHER  owes  it  to  truth,  and  to  colonel  Pike,  to  state  that  he 
very  much  doubts  whether  any  book  ever  went  to  preu  under  so  many  disadvan- 
tages as  the  one  now  presented  to  the  public.  Some  of  those  disadvantages  muf 
be  obvious  to  every  man  who  reads  the  work ;  bat  there  were  many  others  df  » 
nature  not  sufficiently  interesting  for  publication,  yet  of  sufficient  magnitude  to 
retard  the  work,  embarrass  the  publisher,  and  impose  more  anxiety  than  has 
fallen  to  his  lot  in  the  various  books  which  he  has  published.  It  is  however,  con- 
fidently believed,  that  notwithstanding  all  those  circnmstances,  the  journal  and 
its  APPEMDtzxs  will  be  found  particularly  interesting  and  pregnant  with  imj^r- 
tant  information. 


FBLLl 

agei 
knov 
in  m; 
of  m 

shou] 
self  \ 
of  pr 
jects, 
doubi 
herea 
being 
ful  m 
just  a 
ceive 
tution 
'  ] 
consic 


TO  THE  PRESIDEIJT. 


AND  MEMBERS  OF  THE  U.  S.  M.  P.  S. 


niLow  soLDisns  aud  cinzEys, 

IN  presuming  to  claim  your  protection  and  patron* 
age  for  the  following  production,  I  feel  less  diffidence, 
knowing,  that  the  very  institution  of  the  society  will  plead 
in  my  favor,  it  being  avowedly  formed  for  the  promotion 
of  military  knowledge. 

The  work  is  merely  a  volume  of  details,  and  if  it 
should  be  found  that  in  the  relation,  I  have  delivered  my- 
self with  perspicuity  and  exactitude,  it  is  the  highest  meed 
of  praise  that  I  claim.  When  I  touched  on  abstract  sub- 
jects,  or  presumed  to  hypothesize,  I  haVe  merely  suggested 
doubts  without  conclusions,  which,  if  deemed  worthy,  may 
hereafter  be  analyzed  by  men  of  genius  and  science.  It 
being  a  work  which  has  arisen  from  the  events  of  youth- 
ful-military  exertions,  the  author,  perhaps,  has  the  most 
just  and  well  founded  ground  for  a  hope  that  it  may  re- 
ceive the  solicited  approbation  of  your  honorable  insti- 
tution. 

I  am,  gentlemen,  with  the  greatest  respect  and  high 
consideration. 

Your  obedient  servant, 

Z.  M.  PIKE,  Major, 
6th  Regt.  infantry,  M.  U.  S.  M.  P.  Society. 


\ 


M     \ 


PIKE'S  EXPEDITIONS. 


PART  I. 


JOURNAL   OF  A  VOYAO£,  TO   THB   SOUHCEI  OF  THJi 
MISSISSIPPI   IN   THE   YEARS    1805   AND    1806« 

SAILKD  from  my  encampment,  near  St.  Louis,  at 
4  o'clock  P.  M.  on  Friday,  the  9th  August  1805 :  with 
one  sergeant,  two  corporals,  and  seventeen  privates,  in  a 
keel  boat,  70  feet  long,  provisioned  for  four  months :  wa- 
ter very  rapid :  encamped  on  the  east  side  of  the  river,  at 
the  head  oJF  an  island. 

10th  August;  5tf/ur^<(iy— Embarked  early;  break- 
fasted opposite  to  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri,  near  Wood 
creek.  About  5  o'clock  P.  M.  a  storm  came  on  from 
the  westward ;  the  boat  lay  too ;  having  gone  out  to  march 
with  two  men  behind  a  cluster  of  islands,  one  of  my  sol- 
diers swam  a  channel,  in  the  night,  to  inform  me  that  the 
boat  had  stopt  during  the  storm.  I  remained  on  the  beach 
all  night.    Distance  28  1-2  miles. 

11/^  August ;  Sunday — ^In  the  morning  the  boat  came 
up  and  stopt  opposite  to  the  Portage  De  Sioux.  We 
here  spread  out  our  baggage  to  dry ;  discharged  our  guitis 


ri 


n 


2 


Q, 


URNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE 


at  a  target,  and  scaled  out  our  blunderbusses^  Dined 
at  the  cave  below  the  Illinois,  at  the  mouth  of  which 
river,  we  remained  some  time.  From  the  course  of  the 
Mississippi,  the  Illinois  might  be  mistaken  for  a  part  of 
it.  Encamped  on  the  lower  point  of  an  island,  about  6 
miles  above  the  Illinois ;  were  much  detained  by  passing 
the  east  side  of  some  islands  above  the  Illinois  ;  and  were 
obliged  to  get  into  the  water  and  haul  the  boat  through. 

I2tb  August  ;  Monday — ^In  the  morning  made  seve- 
ral^iles  to  breakfast  j  about  3  o'clock  P.  M.  passed  Buf- 
faloe,  or  riviere  au  Boeuf,  above  which,  about  5  miles, 
commences  a  beautiful  cedar  cliff,  having  passed  this,  the 
river  expands  to  nearly  two  miles  in  width,  and  has  four 
islands,  whose  lowest  points  are  nearly  parallel ;  these  we 
called  the  four  brothers ;  encamped  on  the  point  of  the 
El  one.  It  rained  very  hard  all  night ;  caught  one  cat- 
fish.    Distance  29  3-4  miles. 

XSth  August ;  Tuesday — ^Late  before  we  sailed,  pas- 
sed a  vast  number  of  islands ;  left  one  of  our  dogs  on 
shore ;  were  much  detained  by  sand  bars,  and  were  oblig- 
ed to  haul  our  boat  over  several  of  them  ;  observed  seve- 
ral encampments  which  had  been  lately  occupied :  ramed 
all  day.     Distance  27  miles. 

\4ith  August ;  Wednesday--^2ir6.  i^in  in  the  morning, 
JDUt  a  fine  wind  springing  up,  we  put  off  at  1-2  past  6 
o'clock ;  passed  a  camp  of  Sacs,  consisting  of  3  men, 
with  their  families :  they  were  employed  in  spearing  and 
scaffolding  a  fish,  about  3  feet  in  length,  with  a  long  flat 
snout }  they  pointed  out  the  channel,  and  prevented  us 
from  taking  the  wrong  one:  I  gave  them  a  small  qu  .n- 
lity  of  whiskey  and  biscuit ;  and  they  in  return,  pre- 
sented me  with  some  fish.  Sailed  on  through  a  continua- 
tion of  islands,  for  nearly  twenty  miles ;  met  a  young 
gentleman,  (Mr.  Robedoux)  by  whom  I  sent  a  letter  to 


TO  THE  SOURCES  OP  THE  MISSISSIPPI.  3 

St.  Louis ;  encamped  on  an  island;  caught  1375  small 
fish  ;  rained  all  day.     Distance  28  miles. 

ISth  August ;  Thursday — Still  raining  in  the  morn- 
ing. From  the  continued  series  of  wet  weather,  the  men 
were  quite  galled  and  sore.  Met  a  Mr.  Kettletas  of  N. 
Y.  who  gave  me  a  line  to  Mr.  Fisher  of  the  Prairie  Des 
Chein  ;  passed  a  small  river,  to  the  W.  with  a  sand  bar 
at  its  entrance  ;.  also,  passed  Salt  river,  which,  I  do  not 
recollect  having  seen  on  any  chart :  it  is  a  considerable 
Stream,  and  at  high  water  is  navigable,  for  at  least  200 
miles ;  left  another  dog.     Distance  26  miles. 

16th  jiugust ;  Friday — ^Embarked  early,  but  were 
so  unfortunate,  as  to  get  fast  on  a  log  ;  and  did  not  ex- 
tricate ourselves,  until  past  1 1  o'clock,  having  to  saw  off 
a  log  under  the  water.  At  3  o'clock  P.  M,  arrived  at  the 
house  of  a  Frenchman,  situate  on  the  W<  side  of  the 
river,  opposite  to  Hurricane  island.  His  cattle  appeared 
to  be  in  fine  order;  but  his  corn  in  a  bad  state  of  culti- 
vation* About  one  mile .  above  his  house,  on  the  W. 
shore,  is  a  very  handsome  hill,  which  he  informed  me 
was  level  on  the  top,  with  a  gradual  descent  on  either 
side,  and  a  fountain  of  fine  water.  This  man  likewise 
told  me  that  two  men  had  been  killed  on  the  Big  Bay,  or 
Three  Brothers ;  and  desired  to  be  informed  what  mea- 
sures had  been  t^en  in  consequence  thereof;  caught 
three  cat-fish  and  one  perch ;  encamped  4  miles  above  the 
house.     Distance  18  miles. 

I7th  August ;  S^/«r^a)fc— Embarked  and  came  on  re- 
markably well ;  at  10  o'clock  stopt  for  breakfast,  and  in 
order  to  arrange  our  sail ;  when  the  wind  served,  we  put 
off  ard  continued  under  easy  sail  all  day.  Passed  three 
batteaux.     Distance  39  miles. 

ISth  August;  Sunday — ^Embarked  early;  about  11 
o'clock  passed  an  Indian  camp,  on  the  E.  side.  The^^ 
fired  several  guns  ;  but  we  passed  without  stopping.     Ve- 


4  '  JOURNAL  bF  A  VOYAGti 

Tf  hard  head  ivindd  part  of  the  day.  Caught  si*  flftti.-^ 
Distance  23  miles. 

\9th  August  \  Afoffdl^y— Embarked  ettrly  and  made 
fine  way ;  but  at  9  o'clock  in  turning  the  poinlt  of  a  sand 
bar,  our  boat  struck  a  sawyer ;  at  the  momeiit  ^  did  ndt 
know  it  had  injured  her ;  but  in  a  short,  time  after,  disco- 
vered her  to  be  sinking,  however,  by  thrusdn|g  bsdcUm  into 
the  leak  and  bailing,  we  got  her  to  shore  6n  a  b£ir,  where^ 
after  entirely  unloading,  we  with  great  difficulty  keeled 
her  sufficiently  to  cut  out  the  plank  and  put  in  ^  he#  oiiti 
This  at  the  time  I  conceived  to  be  a  great  misfortiine ;  but 
upon  examinadon  we  discovered  that  the  injury  resuldng 
from  it  was  greater  than  we  were  at  first  induced  to  be- 
lieve ;  for  upon  inspection,  we  found  our  provisions  and 
cloathing  considerably  damaged.  The  day  was  usefully  and 
necessarily  employed  in  assorting,  suning,  and  airing  thosi 
articles.  One  of  my  hunters  (Sparks)  having  gone  on  shor^ 
to  hunt,  swam  the  river  about  7  miles  above  and  killed  i 
deer ;  but  finding  we  did  not  come  on,  he  retumed*  dowh 
the  river,  and  joined  us  by  swimming.  "WliHst  we  werfc 
at  work  at  our  boat  on  the  sand  beach,  three  canoes  with 
Indians,  passed  on  the  opposite  shore.  They  cried,  "  Ho^ 
do  }  ou  do,"  wishing  us  to  give  them  an  invitation  to  come 
over ;  but  receiving  no  answer  they  passed  on.  We  then 
put  our  baggage  on  board  and  put  off,  designing  to  go 
where  the  young  man  had  killed  the  deer ;  but  after  dark 
we  became  entangled  among  the  sand  bars,  and  were 
obliged  to  stop  and  encamp  on  the  point  of  a  beach. 
Cai!n;ht  two  fish.     Distance  14  niiles. 

20th  August ;  Tuesday"— Arnved  at  the  foot  of  the 
rapids  De  Moyen  at  7  o'clock ;  and,  although  no  soul 
on  board  had  passed  them,  v/e  commenced  ascending  them, 
immediately.  Our  boat,  being  large  and  moderately 
loaded,  we  found  great  difficulty.  The  river  all  the  way 
through  is  from  3-4  to  a  mile  wide.     The  rapids  are  1 1 


TO  THE  SOURCES  OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI.         S 

iMiislQrtg,  with  succeS«^'ve  ridges  and  shoals  eitetidng  frOitt' 
ghoh  to  shore.  Tii<  M  has  the  greatest  fait  and  is  thir 
most  difficult  to  ascend.  The  channel  (a  bid  oSie)  is  oft 
^e  east  side  hi  passing  the  tdro  first  ba^y  th^ii  passed  un- 
der the  edge  of  the  third ;  crosses  to  die  west^  taA  ascehdi^ 
en  that  side,  all  the  way  tb  the  Sac  Viilaj^e.  ^he  shoals 
continiie  the  whot^  distance.  We  had  piassed  the  firbt  and 
most  difficult  shoal,  when  we  were  met  by  Mr.  Wm* 
Swing,  (who  i  lUid^rstand  is  &n  i^enti  apjpoihted  to  re- 
dde  with  the  Sacs^  to  teach  them  the  science  Of  igriciil- 
ture)  with  a  French  interpreter,  4  chiefs  and  15  men  of 
th^  Sac  nation,  in  th^ir  cslnoes ;  beadng  i.  flag  of  the 
Unlt^  States.  They  cartie  down  to  iissist  me  up  the  ra- 
pid^ }  and  took  out  13  of  my  heaviest  barrds  j  and  put 
two  of  ihdlr  men  in  the  barge  to  pilot  us  up.  Arrived  at 
the  house  of  Mr.  Ewihig,  o^osite  tfee  viUagej  at  dusk. 
The  land  on  both  sides  of  thd  lipids  is  hiUy)  but  a  rich 
soil.    Distance  16  niilesi      '-■       '  ^^ 

mst  August  /  WednesdUf^'-^iftil!^  chiif  Wert  of  the 
village  came  over  to  my  encariipnlent ;  Where  I  spoke  to 
thehi  to  the  foMowiftj^  puit>ort: : 

^*  That  their  gr*?at  lather,  the  presldtent  of  the  Unr* 
ted  States,  wishing  to  be  more  intimately  acquainted  with 
the  'i^tuation,  wantsj  &c.  of  the  diteent  nations  of  the 
ired'^^eOple,  in  our  newly  acquired  territory  of  Louisiana, 
had  ordo^ed  the  general  to  send  a  number  of  his  young 
warriors,  in  different  directions,  to  take  them  by  the  hand, 
and  make  such  enquiries  as  tnight  afford  the  satisfaction 
required.  Also,  that  I  "\fras  authorised  to  choose  situa- 
tions for  their  trading  establishments ;  and  wished  them  to 
inform  me  if  that  place  would  be  considered  by  them  as 
central. 

"  That  I  was  sorry  to  hear  of  the  murder,  which 
had  been  committed  on  the  river  below ;  but,  in  conside- 
ration of  their  assurances,  that  it  was  none  of  their  nation. 


•  JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE        v.T 

and  the  anxiety  exhibited  by  them  on  the  occasion^  I  h^ 
written  to  the  general  and  informed  him  of  what  they  had 
said  on  the  subject.  rr: 

«*  That  in  their  treaty,  they  engaged  to  apprehend 
all  traders  who  came  amongst  them  without  license ;,  ^T 
that  time,  I  could  not  examine  their  traders  on  diis  sub- 
ject; but,  that  on  my  return,,  i  would  ibake  a  particular 
examination*     ,        .  ,  ;,■      .-    i',',,     ,  ■:;  jlrjiMViih    nwm 

*'  That  if  they  thought  proper,  they  might  serid  a 
young  man  in  my  boat,  tQ  informthe  other  villages  of  iJ^y 
mission,  &c." .       ;:',•)  '.  .  .  ';v/{Vrijf 

I  then  presented  them  with  some  tobacco,  knives, 
and  whiskey.     They  replied  to  the  following  purport  t  a  f  J 

''  That  they  thanked  me  for  the  good  opinion  I  haid 
of  their  nation,  and  for  what  I  had  written  the  general. 
That  themselves,  their  young  warriors,  and  the  >^hple 
nation  was  glad  to  see  me  amongst  thenij^tod  no  Insl  erf'l 

"That  as  for  the  situation  of  ^e  trading  houles, 
diey  could:  n0t  determii^0,  being  but  a,  part  of  the  nation. 
With  respecft  Co  sending  a  young  m^n. along,  that,  if;  I 
would  wait  until  to-morrow,  they :  wo^Ld  choose  one  out. 
And  finally,  thanked  me  for  my  tpbaccp^;  knives^  and 

whiskey."     ,   ;        .rriiim  ,9tfim;adi<!)r>i!tihi*try  >.x^^^^ 

Not  wishing  lo  loose  any  tiii^e,  after  writing  to  the 
general**  and  my  friends,  I  embarked  and  made  sixrmlles 
above  the  village.  Encamped  on  a  sand  bar.  One:  ^ayioe 
of  savages  passed,    iijj^i^i  >    .  ,/, 

22d  August ;  Ti)z//(i(/dr)^— Embarked  at  5  o'clock/  A^ 
M.  hard  head  winds.  Passed  ar  great  number  of  islands. 
The  river  very  wide  and  full  of  sand  bars.  Distance  2^ 
miles.  M 

23d  August;  Friday — Cool  morning;  camjj  on  5 
1-4  miles,   where,  on  the  west  shore,  there  is  a  very 

*  See  **  appendix  to  fart  I,"  [No.  »|  jpsge  i.       , 


TO  THE  SOURCES  OF  THE  MISSISSIPPL  f 

handsome  situation  for  a  garrison.  The  channel  of  the 
river  passes  under  the  hill,  vrhich  is  about  60  feet  perpen- 
dicular, and  level  on  the  top.  Four  hundred  yards  in  the 
rear,  there  is  a  small  prairie  of  8  or  10  acres,  which  would 
be  a  convenient  spot  for  gardens ;  and  on  the  east  side  of  the 
river,  there  is  a  beautiful  prospect  over  a  large  prairie,  as 
far  as  the  eye  can  extend,  now  and  then  interrupted  by 
groves  of  trees.  Directly  under  the  rock  is  a  limestone 
spring,  which,  after  an  hour's  work,  would  afford  water 
amply  sufficient  for  the  consumption  of  a  regiment.  The 
landing  is  bold  and  safe,  and  at  the  lower  part  of  the  hill, 
a  road  may  be  made  for  a  team  in  half  an  hour.  Black 
and  white  oak  timber  in  abundance.  The  mountain  con- 
tinues about  two  miles,  and  has  five  springs  bursting  from 
it  in  that  distance.  Met  four  Indians  and  two  squaws ;  land- 
ed with  them  ;  gave  them  one  quart  of  made  whiskey,  a 
few  biscuit  and  some  salt.  I  requested  some  venison  of 
them,  they  pretended  they  could  not  understand  me ;  but 
after  we  had  left  them,  they  held  up  two  hams,  and  hal- 
looed and  laughed  at  us  in  derision.  Passed  nine  horses 
on  shore,  and  saw  many  signs  of  Indians.  Passed  a  hand- 
some prairie  on  the  east  side,  and  encamped  at  its  head. 
Three  batteaux  from  Michilimackinac ;  stopped  at  our 
camp,  we  were  told  they  were  the  property  of  Mr.  Myers 
Michals;  we  were  also  informed,  that  the  largest  Sac 
village  was  about  2  1-2  miles  out  on  the  prairie;  and 
that  this  prairie  was  called  half  way  to  the  prairie  Des 
Cheins,  from  St.  Louis. 

24ith  August ;  Saturday — ^In  the  morning  passed  a 
number  of  islands.  Before  dinner,  corporal  Bradley  and 
myself  took  our  guns  and  went  on  shore ;  we  got  behind 
a  savannah,  by  following  a  stream  we  conceived  to  have 
been  a  branch  of  the  river,  but  which  led  us  at  least  two 
leagues  from  it.  My  two  favorite  dogs,  having  gone  out 
with  us,  gave  out  in  the  prairie,  owing  to  the  heat,  high 


;!  t 


;8  JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE 

grass,  and  w^nt  of  wztfsr ;  but  thinking  they  would  conne 
on,  we  continued  our  march.  We  heard  the  report  of  a 
gun,  and  supposing  it  to  be  from  our  boat,  answered  it ; 
shortly  after,  however,  we  passed  an  Indian,  trail,  which 
appeared  as  if  the  persons  had  been  hurried,  I  presume  at 
the  report  of  our  guns  j  for  with  this  people,  all  strangers 
are  enemies.  Shortly  after  we  struck  the  river,  and  the 
boat  appeared  in  view  ;  stayed  some  time  for  my  dogs ; 
two  of  iAy  men  volunteered  to  go  in  search  of  them. 
Encamped  on  the  west  shore,  nearly  opposite  to  a  chalk 
bank.  My  two  men  had  not  yet  returned,  and  it  was  ex- 
traordinary, as  they  knew  my  boat  never  waited  for  any 
person  on  shore  :  they  endeavored  to  strike  the  Mississip- 
pi ahead  of  us.  We  fired  a  blunderbuss  at  three  different 
times,  to  let  them  know  where  we  lay.  Distance  23  1-2 
miles. 

25tb  August  ;^  Sunday — Stopt  on  the  sand  bank 
prairie,  on  the  £.  side,  from  which  you  have  a  beautiful 
prospect  of  at  least  40  miles  down  the  river,  bearing  S.  38* 
E.  Discovered  that  our  boat  leaked  very  fast ;  but  we 
secured  her  inside  so  completely  with  oakum  and  tallow^ 
as  nearly  to  prevent  the  leak.  Fired  a  blunderbuss  ^very 
hour,  sdl  day,  as  signals  for  our  men.  Passed  the  river 
Iowa.  Encamped  at  night  on  the  prairie,  marked  Gr^»/*/ 
prairie.  The  men  had  not  yet  arrived.  Distance  29 
miles. 

26/A  August  ^  Monday — Rain,  with  a  very  hard  head 
wind.  Towed  our  boat  about  nine  miles,  to  where  the 
river  Hills  joins  the  Mississippi.  Here  I  expected  to  find  the  i 
two  men  I  had  lost,  but  was  disappoints  d.  The  mercury  in  I 
Reamur  at  13°;  whereas  yesterday,  it  was  26°.  Met 
two  peroques  full  of  Indians,  who  commenced  hollowing, 
"  How  do  you  do,"  &c.  they  then  put  to  shore  and  beck- 
oned us  to  do  so  likewise,  but  we  continued  our  course. 
This  day  very  severe  on  the  men^    Distance  28  1-2  miles. 


TO  THE  SOURCES  OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI.         9 

OUth  August ;  Tuesday — Embarked  early ;  cold  N. 
wind  ;  mercury  10° ;  the  wind  so  hard  ahead,  that  we 
were  obliged  to  tow  the  boat  all  day.  Passed  one  peroque 
of  Indians,  also  the  Riviere  De  Roche,  late  in  the  day. 
Some  Indians  who  were  encamped  there,  embarked  in  their 
canoes  and  ascended  the  river  before  us.  The  wind  so 
very  strong,  that,  although  dovjrn  the  stream,  they  were 
near  sinking.  Encamped  about  4  miles  above  the  Riviere 
De  Roche,  on  the  W.  shore.  This  day  passed  a  pole  on 
a  prairie,  on  which  five  dogs  were  hanging.  Distance  22 
miles. 

2%th  August ;  Wednesday — ^About  an  hour  after  we 
had  embarked,  we  arrived  at  the  camp  of  Mr.  James 
Aird,  a  Scotch  gentleman  of  Michilimackinac.     He  had 
encamped,  with  some  goods,  on  the  beach  ;  and  was  re- 
pairing his  boat,  which  had  been  injured  in  crossing  the 
rapids  of  the  Riviere  De  Roche  (at  the  foot  of  which  we 
now  were.)    He  had  sent  three  boats  back  for  the  goods 
left  behind.     Breakfasted  with  him  and  obtained  consider- 
able information.     Commenced  ascending  the  rapids.... 
Carried  away  our  rudder  in  the  first ;  but  after  getting  it 
repaired,  the  wind  raised,  and  we  hoisted  sail ;  and,  aU 
though  entire  strangers,  we  sailed  through  them  with  a 
perfect  gale  blowing  all  the  time ;  when,  had  we  struck 
a  rock,  in  all  probability  we  would  have  bilged  and  sunk. 
But  we  were  so  fortunate  as  to  pass  without  touching.    Met 
with  Mr.  Aird*s  boats  (which  had  pilots)  fast  on  the  rocks. 
Those  shoals  are  a  continued  chain  of  rocks,  extending 
in  some  places  from  shore  to  shore,  about  18  miles  in 
length.    They  afford  more  water  than  those  of  De  Mo- 
yen,  but  are  much  more  rapid. 

29/A  August ;  Thursday — Breakfasted  at  the  Reynard 
village,  above  the  rapids  ;  this  is  the  first  village  of  the 
Reynards.  I  expected  to  have  found  my  two  men  here, 
but  was  disappointed.    Finding  they  had  not  passed,  I 


10 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE 


lay  by  until  4  o'clock  P.  M.  the  wind  fair  all  the  time. 
The  chief  informed  me,  by  signs,  that  in  four  days  they 
could  march  to  Prairie  Des  Cheins ;  and  promised  to  fur- 
nish'them  with  mockinsons,  and  put  them  on  their  rout. 
Set  sail  and  made  at  least  four  knots  an  hour.  I  was  dis- 
posed to  sail  all  night,  but  the  wind  lulling,  we  encamped 
on  the  point  of  an  island,  on  the  W.  shore.  Distance  20 
miles. 

SOtb  August ;  Friday — Embarked  at  5  o'clock ;  wind 
fair,  but  not  very  high.  Sailed  all  day.  Passed  four  pe- 
roques  of  Indians.     Distance  43  mil.^s. 

31st  August;  Saturday — ^Embarked  early.  Passf^l 
one  peroque  of  Indians ;  also,  two  encampments ;  one 
on  a  beautiful  eminence,  on  the  W.  side  of  the  riyer. 
This  place  had  the  appearance  of  an  old  town.  Sailed 
almost  all  day.     Distance  31  1-2  milest 

\st  Sept.  Sunday — ^Embarked  early  ;  wind  fair ;  ar- 
rived at  the  lead  mines  at  12  o'clock.  A  d)s>;ntery  with 
which  I  had  been  alHicted  several  days,  was  suddenly 
checked  this  morning ;  which,  I  believe  to  have  been  the 
occasion  of  a  very  violent  attack  of  fever  about  1 1  o'clock. 
Notwithstanding  it  was  very  s  vere,  I  dressed  myself, 
with  an  intention  to  execute  the  orders  of  the  general  re- 
lative to  this  place.  \v  e  were  saluted  with  a  field  piece,  and 
received  with  every  mark  of  attention,  by  Monsieur  Du- 
buque, the  proprietor.  There  were  no  horses  at  the  house, 
and  it  was  six  miles  to  where  the  mines  were  worked ;  it  was 
therefore  impossible  to  make  a  report  by  actual  inspection. 
I  therefore  proposed  ten  queries,  on  the  answers  to  which 
my  report  was  founded.*  Dined  with  Mr.  D.  who  inform- 
ed me  that  the  Sioux  and  Sauteurs  were  as  warmly  en- 
gaged in  opposition  as  ever ;  that  not  long  since,  the  for- 
mer killed  15  Sauteurs,  who  on  the  10th  August  in  re- 


:!!'! 


•  Sec  appendix  to  part  I.  [No.  a]  page  j. 


TO  THK  SOURCES  OF  TFIE  MISSISSIPPI.        i^' 

tiim  killed  10  Sioux,  at  the  entrance  of  the  St.  Peters; 
and  that  a  war  party,  composed  of  the  Sacs,  Reynards, 
and  Puants,  of  200  warriors  had  embarked  on  an  expe- 
dition against  the  Sauteurs,  but  that  they  had  heard,  that 
the  chief  having  had  an  unfavorable  dream,  persuaded  the 
paijy  to  return,  and  that  I  would  meet  them  on  my  voy- 
age. At  this  place  I  was  introduced  to  a  chief,  called  the 
Raven  of  the  Reyriards.  He  made  a  very  flowery  speech 
on  the  occasion,  which  I  answered  in  a  few  words,  ac- 
companied by  a  small  present. 

I  had  now  given  up  all  hopes  of  my  two  men,  and 
was  about  to  embark,  when  a  peroque  arrived,  in  which 
they  were,  with  a  Mr.  Blondeau,  and  two  Indians,  whom 
that  gentleman  had  engaged  above  the  rapids  of  Stony 
river.  The  two  soldiers  had  been  six  days  without  any 
thing  to  eat,  except  muscles :  when  they  met  Mr.  James 
Aird,  by  whose  humanity  and  attention  their  strength  and 
spirits  were  in  a  measure,  restored ;  and  they  were  ena- 
bled to  reach  the  Reynard  village,  where  they  met  with 
Mr.  B.  The  Indian  chief  furnished  them  with  com  and 
shoes,  and  shewed  his  friendship,  by  every  possible  at- 
tention. I  immediately  discharged  the  hire  of  the  Indians, 
and  gave  Mr.  Blondeau  a  passage  to  the  Prairie  T)es 
Chjins.  Left  the  lead  mines  at  4  o'clock.  Distance  25 
miles. 

2d  Sept,  Monday-^Aher  making  two  short  reaches, 
we  commenced  one,  which  is  30  miles  in  length,  the  wind 
serving,  we  just  made  it ;  and  encamped  on  the  E.  sid  ,•  op- 
posite to  the  mouth  of  Turkey  river.  In  the  course  of 
the  day,  we  landed  to  shoot  at  pidgeons ;  the  moment  a 
gun  was  fired,  some  Inctians,  who  were  on  the  shore  above 
us,  ran  down  and  put  oflF  in  their  peroques  with  great 
precipitation ;  upon  which  Mr.  Blondeau  informed  me, 
that  all  the  women  and  children  were  frightened  at  the  ve- 
ry name  of  an  American  boat,  and  that  the  men  held  us 


13 


•    joukKal  of  a  voyage 


I 


in  great  respect,  conceiving  us  very  quarrelsome,  and 
much  for  war,  and  also  very  brave.  This  information  1 
used  as  prudence  suggested.  We  stopt  at  an  encamp- 
ment, about  three  miles  below  the  town,  where  they  gave 
us  some  excellent  plums.  They  despatched  a  peroque  to 
the  village,  to  give  notice,  as  I  supposed,  of  our  arrival. 
It  commenced  raining  about  dusk,  and  rained  all  night. 
Distance  40  miles. 

3d  Sept.  Tuesday-^Emhiaked  at  a  pretty  early  hour. 
Cloudy.  Met  two  peroques  of  family  Indians  ;  they  at 
first  asked  Mr.  Blondeau,  *'  if  we  were  for  war,  or  if 
going  to  war  ?"  I  now  experienced  the  good  effect,  of 
having  some  person  on  board,  who  could  speak  their  lan- 
guage ;  for  they  presented  me  with  three  pair  of  ducks, 
and  a  quantity  of  venison,  sufficient  for  all  our  crew,  one 
day ;  in  return,  I  made  them  some  trifling  presents.  Af- 
terwards met  two  peroques,  carrying  some  of  the  warriors 
spoken  of  on  the  2d  inst.  They  kept  at  a  great  distance, 
until  spoken  to  by  Mr.  B.  when  they  informed  him  that 
their  party  had  proceeded  up  as  high  as  Lake  Pepin,  without 
effecting  any  thing.  It  is  surprizing  what  a  dread  the  In- 
dians, in  this  quarter,  have  of  the  Americans :  I  have 
often  seen  them  go  round  islands,  to  avoid  meeting  my 
boat.  It  appears  to  me  evident,  that  the  traders  have  ta- 
ken great  pains,  to  impress  upon  the  minds  of  the  savages, 
the  idea  of  our  being  a  very  vindictive,  ferocious,  and 
warlike  people.  This  impression  was  perhaps  made  with 
no  good  intention ;  but  when  they  find  that  our  conduct 
towards  them,  is  guided  by  magnanimity  and  justice ;  in- 
stead of  operating  in  an  injurious  manner,  it  will  have  the 
effect  to  make  them  reverence  at  the  same  time  they  fear 
us.    Distance  25  miles. 

4th  Sept.  Wednesday^^-'Bre2ikhsted  just  below  the 
Ouiscousing.    Arrived  at  the  Prairie  Des  Cheins  about  1 1 


TO  THli  SOURCES  OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI.         13 

u^clock ;  took  quarters  at  capt.  Fishers,  and  were  politely 
received  by  him  and  Mr.  Frazer. 

5th  Sept.  Ti&t/n^/i)'— Embarked  about  half  past  10 
o'clock  in  a  Schenectady  boat,  to  go  to  the  mouth  of  the 
Ouiscousing,  in  order  to  take  the  latitude,  and  look  at  the 
situation  of  the  adjacent  hills  for  a  post.     Was  accompa- 
nied by  judge  Fisher,    Mr.  Frazer,  and  Mr.   Woods. 
We  ascended  the  hill  on  the  west  side  of  the  Mississippi ; 
I  and  made  choice  of  a  spot  which  I  thought  most  eligible, 
[being  level  on  the  top,  having  a  spring  in  the  rear,  and 
commanding  a  view  of  the  country  around.     A  shower 
[of  rain  came  on  which  completely  wet  us ;  and  we  re- 
Itumed  to  the  village  without  having  ascended  the  Ouis- 
[cousing  as  we  intended.     Marked  four  trees  with  A.  B. 
Ic.  D.  and  squared  the  sides  of  one  in  the  centre.     Wrote 
|to  the  general.* 

6th  Sept,  Friday — Had  a  small  council  with  the  Pu- 
lants,  and  a  chief  of  the  lower  band  of  the  Sioux.  Visit- 
led  and  laid  out  a  posidon  for  a  post,  on  a  hill  called  the 
iFetit  Gris,  on  the  Ouiscousing,  three  miles  abov^  its 
Imouth.  Mr.  Fisher  who  accompanied  mie,  was  taken  very 
sick,  in  consequence  of  drinking  some  water  out  of  the 
[Ouiscousing.  The  Puants  never  have  any  white  interpre- 
Iters,  nor  have  the  Fols  Avoin  nation.  In  my  council,  I 
Ispoke  to  a  Frenchman,  he  to  a  Sioux,  who  interpreted  to 
some  of  the  Puants. 

Itk  Sept.  Saturday — My  men  beat  all  the  villggers 
Dumping  and  hopping.     Began  to  load  my  new  boats. 

8th  Sept.  Sunday — ^Embarked  at  half  past  1 1  o'clock 
\n  two  batteaux.  The  wind  fair  and  fresh.  I  found  my- 
self very  much  embarrassed  and  crampt,  in  my  new  boats, 
nth  provision  and  baggage.  I  embarked  two  interpre- 
ters, one  to  perform  the  whole  voyage,  whose  name  was 


See  appendix  to  part  I.  [No-  3>1  page  %, 


u 


JOURNAL  OP  A  VOYAGE 


'^!!! 


Pierre  Rosseau  ;  and  the  other  named  Joseph  Reinulle, 
paid  by  Mr.  Frazer  to  accompany  mc  as  high  as  the  falls 
of  St.  Anthony.  Mr.  Frazer  it  a  young  gentleman,  clerk 
to  Mr.  Blakely,  of  Montreal :  he  was  born  in  Vermonf^ 
but  has  latterly  resided  in  Canada.  To  the  attention 
of  this  gentleman,  I  am  much  indebted ;  he  procur- 
ed for  me  every  thing  in  his  power  that  I  stood  in  need  of; 
despatched  his  bark  canoes,  and  remained  himself  to  go 
on  with  me.  His  design  was  to  winter  with  some  of  the 
Sioux  bands.  We  sailed  well,  came  18  miles  and  en- 
camped on  the  W.  bank.  I  must  not  omit  here  to  bear 
testimony  to  the  politeness  of  all  the  principal  inhabitants 
of  the  village.  There  is  however  a  material  distinction  t  < 
be  made  in  the  nature  of  those  attentions :  The  kindness 
of  Messrs  Fisher,  Frazer,  and  Woods,  (all  Americans) 
seemed  to  be  the  spontaneous  effusions  of  good  will :  and 
partiality  to  their  countrymen  j  it  extended  to  the  accom- 
modation, convenience,  exercises,  and  pastimes  of  my 
men ;  and  whenever  they  proved  superior  to  the  French, 
openly  shewed  their  pleaoure.  But  the  French  Canadians 
appeared  attentive,  rather  from  their  natural  good  man- 
ners, than  sincere  friendsliip ;  however,  it  produced  from 
them  the  same  effect  that  natural  good  will  did  in  the 
others. 

9th  Sept.  Monday — ^Embarked  early.  Dined  at  Cape 
Garlic,  or  at  Garlic  river  j  after  which  we  came  on  to  an 
island  on  the  E,  side,  about  5  miles  below  the  river  Iowa, 
and  encamped.  Rained  before  sun  s  5  Distance  *2S 
miles.  "*/      '  ' 

lOtb  Sept.  Tuesday-^R2an  still  co ;;.:iiuiiig,  we  re- 
mained at  our  camp.  Having  shot  at  some  pidgeons,  the 
leport  was  heard  at  the  Sioux  lodges  ;•  when  La  Fieulle 
s*\nt  down  six  of  his  young  men  to  inform  me,  **  that  he  had 

*  The  s  iisiC  to  whom  I  spoke  on  the  6tb  at  the  Pralrle> 


TO  THE  SOURCES  OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI.         »5 

«  waited  three  days  with  meat,  ^f .  but  that  last  night  they 
"  had  began  to  drink,  and,  that  ou  rhe  next  day  he  would 
"  rec^ .  vc  me  with  his  people  b<  'ber.**    1  rem  mod  him  tor 
answer,  **  that  the  season  was  advanced,  that    :j\c  was 
*♦  pressing,  and  that  if  the  raii.  ceased,  i  niuw  )_  o  on." 
Mr.  Frazer  and  the  interpreter  went  home  with  ui;  In- 
dians.    We  embarked  about  1  o'clock.     Fnizer  return- 
ling,  informed  me  that  the  chief  acquiesced  in     y  rea 
I  sons  for  p  .'Sbing  forward,  but  that  he  had  preparei  i  pipe 
[(by  ^y^"  oi  ^"^tter)  to  present  me,  to  shew  to  all  the  uoux 
[above  f,  wuh  a  message  to  inform  them,  that  I  was  a  chief 
t;v;'ur  new  fathers,  and  that  he  wished  me  to  be  treate  \ 
[with  friendship  and  respect.     On  our  arrival  opposite  to 
[th(^  lodges,  the  men  were  paraded  on  the  bank,  with  their 
runs  in  their  hands.     They  saluted  us  (with  ball)  with 
[what  might  be  termed  three  rounds ;  which  I  returned 
irith  three  rounds  from  each  boat  with  my  blunderbusses. 
[This  salute,  although  nothing  to  soldiers  accustomed  to 
jfire,  would  not  be  so  agreeable,  to  many  people ;  as  the 
llndians  had  all  been  drinking,  and  as  some  of  them,  even 
Itried  their  dexterity,  to  see  how  near  the  boat  they  could 
strike.     They  may,  indeed,  be  feaid,  to  have  struck  on 
|every  side  of  us.     When  landed,  I  had  my  pistols  in  my 
[belt,  and  sword  in  hand.     I  was  met,  on  the  bank,  by 
the  chief,  and  invited  to  his  lodge.     As  soon  as  my  guards 
^ere  formed,  and  sentinels  posted,  I  accompanied  him. 
Jome  of  my  men  who  were  going  up  with  me,  I  caused 
to  leave  their  arms  behind,  as  a  mark  of  confidence.     At 
tho  ciiief  *s  lodge,  I  found  a  clean  mat  and  pillow,  forme 
to  sit  on,  and  the  before-mentioned  pipe,  on  a  pair  of 
imall  crutches  before  me.  The  chief  sat  on  my  right  hand, 
ly  interpreter  and  Mr.  Frazer  on  my  left.     After  smok- 
ig,  the  chief  spoke  to  the  following  purport :     "  That, 
"  notwithstanding  he  had  seen  me  at  the  prairie,  he  was 
"  happy  to  tikie  me  by  the  hand  amongst  his  own  people^ 


r« 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE 


till) 


(£ 


(C 


(C 


(C 


ii 


ii 


cc 


(C 


<c 


"  and  there  to  shew  his  young  men  the  respect  due  to 
their  new  father :     That,  when  at  St.   Louis  in  the 
spring,  his  father  had  told  him,  that  if  he  looked  down 
the  river,  he  would  see  one  of  his  young  warriors  com^ 
ing  up.  He  now  found  it  true,  and  he  was  happy  to  see 
me,  who  knew  the  Great  Spirit  was  the  father  of  all ; 
both  the  white  and  the  red  people ;  and  if  one  died,  the 
••    )ther  could  not  live  long.     That  he  had  never  been  at 
"  war  with  their  new  father,  and  hoped,  always  to  pre- 
"  serve,  the  same  good  understanding  that  now  existed. 
*'  That  he  now  presented  me  with  a  pipe,  to  shew  to  the 
upper  bands,  a  token  of  our  good  understanding ;  and 
that  they  might  see  his  work,  and  imitate  his  conduct. 
That  he  had  gone  to  St.  Louis,  on  a  shameful  visit,  to 
*'  carry  a  murderer  ;  but,  that  we  had  given  the  man  hisj 
*'  life,  and  he  thanked  us  for  it.     That  he  had  provided] 
"  something  to  eat,  but  he  supposed  I  could  not  eat  it, 
*'  and  if  not,  to  give  it  to  my  young  men."     I  replied:! 
*'  that,  although  I  had  told  him  at  the  prairie,  my  busi- 
**  ness  up  tie  Mississippi,  I  would  again  relate  it  to  him.j 
*'  I  then  mentioned  the  different  objects  I  had  in  view ;! 
*'  with  regard  to  the  savages,  who  had  fallen  under  ourj 
*'  protection,  by  our  late  purchase  from  the  Spaniards.! 
*'  The  different  posts  to  be  established.     The  objects  ofi 
*'  these  posts  as  related  to  them  j  supplying  them  witli| 
"  necessaries ;  having  officers  and  agents  of  government| 
"  near  them,  to  attend  to  their  business  ;  and  above  all,! 
*'  to  endeavor  to  make  peace  with  between  the  Sioux  and! 
"  Sauteurs.     Th?t  it  was  possible  on  my  return  I  should! 
"  bring  some  of  the  Sauteurs  down  with  me,  and  takel 
"  with  me  some  of  the  Sioux  chiefs  to  St.  Louis ;  therei 
*'  to  settle  the  long  and  bloody  war,  which  had  existed  be- 
"  tween  the  two  nations.     That  I  accepted  his  pipe  witli| 
pleasure,  as  the  gift  of  a  great  man,*  and  a  brother. 


(C 


*  He  i.5  the  chief  of  four  bands. 


TO  THE  SOURCES  OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI. 


IT 


V*  That  it  should  be  used  as  he  desired."  I  then  eat  of  the 
linner  he  had  provided.  It  was  very  grateful.  It  was 
irild  rye  and  venison,  of  which  I  sent  four  bowls  to  my 
len.  I  afterwards  went  to  a  dance,  the  performance  of 
^hich,  was  attended  with  many  curious  manceuvres.  Men 
id  women  danced  indiscriminately.  They  were  all  dres- 
;d  in  the  gayest  manner ;  each  had  in  their  hand,  a  small 
^kin  of  some  description,  and  would  frequently  run  up, 
joint  fheir  skin,  and  give  a  puflF  with  their  breath ;  when 
le  person  blown  at,  whether  man  or  woman,  would  fall, 
id  appear  to  be  almost  lifeless,  or  in  great  agony ;  but 
irould  recover  slowly,  rise,  and  join  in  the  dance.  This 
ley  called  their  great  medicine  ;  or  as  I  understood  the 
7ord,  dance  of  religion.  The  Indians  believing,  that  they 
Actually  puffed  something  into  each  others  bodies,  which 
:casioned  the  falling,  &c.  It  is  not  every  person  who 
admitted;  persons  wishing  to  join  them,  must  first 
lake  valuable  presents  to  the  society,  to  the  amount  of 
to  or  50  dollars,  give  a  feast,  and  then  are  admitted  with 
freat  ceremony.  Mr.  Frazer  informed  me,  that  he  was 
l)nce  in  the  lodge  with  some  young  men,  who  did  not  be- 
)ng  to  the  club  ;  when  one  of  the  dancers  came  in,  they 
imediately  threw  their  blankets  over  him,  and  forced 
lim  out  of  the  lodge :  he  laughed,  and  the  young  Indians 
Jailed  him  a  fool,  and 'said  "  he  did  not  know  what  the 
lancer  might  blbw  into  his  body."  I  returned  to  my 
)oat ;  sent  for  the  chief  and  presented  him  with  two  car- 
ets of  tobacco,  four  knives,  half  a  pound  of  vermillion, 
id  one  quart  of  salt.  Mr.  Frazer  asked,  liberty  to  pre- 
jnt  them  some  rum  ;  we  made  them  up  a  keg  between 
IS,  of  8  gallons.*  Mr.  Frazer  informed  the  chief,  that 
|e  dare  not  give  them  any  without  my  permission.  The 
lief  thanked  me  for  all  my  presents,  and  said  "  they 


Two  gallons  of  whiskey. 
C 


m 


!■'! 


i» 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE 


!'  ' 


**  must  come  free,  as  he  did  not  ask  for  them."    I  replied, 
<*  that,  to  those  who  did  not  ask  for  any  thing,  I  gave  free- 
«f  ly ;  but  to  those  who  asked  for  much,  I  gave  only  a  little 
"  or  none."  We  embarked  about  half  past  3  o'clock ;  came 
three  miles,  and  encamped  on  the  W.  side.    Mr.  Frazer  I 
we  left  behind,  but  he  came  up  with  his  two  peroques 
about  dusk.     It  commenced  raining  very  hard.     In  the ; 
night  a  peroque  arrived  from  the  lodges  at  his  camp.  Du- 
ring our  stay  at  their  camp,  there  were  soldiers  appointed 
to  keep  the  croud  from  my  boats ;  who  executed  their  du* 
ty  with  vigilance  and  rigor ;  driving  men,  women,  and 
children  back,  whenever  they  came  near  my  boats.     Atj 
my  departure,  their  soldiers  said,  **  As  I  had  shaken  hands! 
**  with  their  chief,  they  must  shake  hands  with  my  sol- 
*'  diers."     In  which  request  I  willingly  indulged  them. 

nth  Sept,  Wednesday — ^Embarked  at  7  o'clock,  al- 
though  raining.  Mr.  Frazer's  canoes  also  came  on  untiiS 
nine  o'clock.  Stopt  for  breakfast,  and  made  a  fire.  Mr.j 
Frazer  staid  with  me,  and  finding  his  peroques  not  quite! 
able  to  keep  up,  he  dispatched  them.  We  embarked  y  came| 
on  until  near  6  o'clock,  and  encamped  on  the  W.  side.^ 
Saw  nothing  of  his  peroques,  after  they  left  us.  SuppoS'j 
ed  to  have  come  16  miles  this  day.  Rain  and  cold  windsj 
all  day  ahead.  The  river  has  never  been  clear  of  islands! 
since  I  left  Prairie  Des  Chein.  1  absolutely  believe  it,i 
here,  to  be  two  miles  wide.  Hills,  or  rather  prairie  knobs; 
on  both  sides. 

12t/j  Sept,  Thursday-^lt  raining  very  hard  in  the; 
morning,  we  did  not  embark  until  10  o'clock.  Mr.  Frai 
zer's  peroque  then  coming  up.     It  was  still  raining,  and 
was  very   cold.    Passed  the   Racine  river,  also  a  prai| 
rie  called  Le  Cross,  from  a  game  of  ball  played  frequently;! 
on  it  by  the  Sioux  Indians.     I'his  praiiie  is  very  hand' 
some,  it  has  a  small  square  hill,  similar  to  some  mention- 
ed by  Carver.     It  is  bounded  in  the  rear,  by  hills  simiiiu 


i  I  m: 


TO  THE  SOURCES  OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI.        19 

the  Prairie  Des  Chein.  On  this  prairie  Mr.  Frazer  shew- 
me  some  holes,  dug  by  the  Sioux,  when  in  expecta- 
^on  of  an  attack  into  which  they  first  put  their  women, 

id  children  and  then  crawl  themselves.  They  were  ge- 
leraliy  round,  and  about  10  feet  in  diameter ;  but  some 
^ere  half  moons  and  quite  a  breastwork.  This  I  under* 
tood  was  the  chief  work,  which  was  the  principal  redoubt. 
Their  modes  of  constructing  them  are,  the  moment  they 

)prehend,  or  discover,  an  enemy  on  a  prairie,  they  cpm- 
lence  digging  with  their  knives,  tomahawks,  and  a  wood- 
ladle  ;  and  in  an  incredibly  short  space  of  time,  they 

ive  a  hole  sufficiently  deep  to  cover  themselves  and  their 

^mily,  from  the  balls  or  arrows  of  the  enemy.    They 

lave  no  idea  of  taking  those  subterraneous  redoubts  by 

torm,  as  they  would  probably  loose  a  great  number  of 

len  in  the  attack ;  and  although  they  might  be  success- 

il  in  the  event,  it  would  be  considered  as  a  very  impru- 

lent  action.     Mr.  Frazer  finding  his  canoes  not  able  to 

|:eep  up,  staid  at  this  prairie  to  organize  one  of  them,  in* 

ending  then,  to  overtake  us.     Came  on  3  miles  further. 

13fh  Sept.  Friday — Embarked  at  6  o'clock.     Came 

to  a  sand  bar,  and  stopt  to  dry  my  things.     At  this 

jilace  Mr.  Frazer  overtook  me.     We  remained  here  three 

burs  ;  came  on  to  the  foot  of  the  hills,  at  ie  Montaigne 

\ui  Trompe  a  PEau^  which  is  a  hill  situated  on  the  river. 

Lain  all  day,  except  about  two  hours  at  noon.    Passed 

Uack  river.     Distance  21  miles. 

\4ith  Sept.  Saturday-^'Emhzrked  early;  the  fog  so' 
lick,  we  could  not  distinguish  objects  twenty  yards.  When 
^e  breakfasted,  we  saw  nothing  of  Mr.  Frazer's  canoes. 
ifter  breakfast,  atthe  head  of  an  island,  met  Frazer's  boat^. 

'^ind  coming  on  fair,  we  hoisted  sail,  and  found  that  we 
^ere  more  on  an  equality  with  our  sails  than  our  oars. 
?he  birch  canoes  sailed  very  well,  but  we  were  able  to 
|ut  row  them.    Met  the  remainder  of  the  war  party  (be- 


i 


3U 


■H 


ji  • 


Hii' 


^111^ 


r 


mM 


iiiiii;;; 


JOTJUNx\L  OF  A  VOYAGE 


ibre  noted)  of  the  Sacs  and  Reynards,  returning  from 
their  expedition  against  the  Sauteurs.     I  directed  my  in- 
terpreter to  ask  how  many  scalps  they  had  taken,  they  re- 
plied "  none ;"  he  added  they  were  all  squaws,  for  which 
I  reprimanded  him.     Passed  the  mountain  which  stands  in 
die  river,  or  as  the  French  term  it,  which  soaks  in  the 
river.     Came  on  to  the  Prairie  Le  Aisle,  on    the  west. 
Mr.  Frazer,  Bradley,  Sparks,  and  m}  self,   went  out  to 
hunt ;  we  crossed  first  a  dry  flat  prairie ;  when  we  arriv- 
ed at  the  hills,  we  ascended  them,  from  which  we  had  a 
most  sublime  and  beautiful  prospect.     On  the  right,  we 
saw  the  mountains,  which  we  passed  in  the  morning,  and , 
the  prairie  in  their  rear  ;  and  like  distant  clouds  the  moun< 
tains  at  the  Prairie  Le  Cross ;  on  our  left  and  under  our! 
feet,  the  valley  between  the  two  barren  hills,  through  which  | 
the  Mississippi  wound  itself  by  numerous  channels,  form- 
ing  many  beautiful  islands,  as  far  as  the  eye  could  em* 
brace  the  scene.     Our  four  boats  under  full  sail,  their! 
flags  streaming  before  the  wind,  was  altogether  a  prospect  | 
8o  variegated  and  romantic,  that  a  man  may  scarcely  ex* 
pect  to  enjoy  such  a  one  but  twice  or  thrice  in  the  coursef 
of  his  life.     I  proposed  keeping  the  hills  until  they  led  to| 
the  river,  encamping  and  waiting  the  next  day  for  ouri 
boats  J  but  Mr.  Frazer*s  anxiety  to  get  to  the  boats,  in- 
duced me  to  yield  ;  and  after  crossing  a  very  thick  bot-i 
torn,  fording  and  swimming  three  -branches  of  the  riverj 
and  crossing  several  morasses,  we  at  12  o'clock  arrived,! 
opposite  our  boats,  which  were  encamped  on  the  east  side] 
We  were  brought  over.     Saw  great  sign  of  elk,  but  hadj 
not  the  good  fortune  to  come  across  any  of  them.     Myj 
men  saw  three  on  the  shore.     Distance  21  miles. 

iSth  Sept.  Sunday — Embarked  early ;  passed  the^ 
riviere  Embarrass,  and  Lean  Clare,  on  the  W.  which  is  na-| 
vigable  1 35  miles.  Encamped  opposite  to  the  river  Le| 
Bceuf  on  the  W.  shore.     At  the  head  of  this  river,  the! 


,  TO  THE  SOURCES  OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI.        2i 

Chipeways  inhabit,  and  it  is  navigable  for  peroques  40  or 
50  leagues.     Rained  in  the  afternoon.    Mr.  Frazer  broke 
[one  of  his  canoes.     Came  on  about  3  miles  farther  than 
I  him.    Distance  25  miles. 

I6th  Sept.  Mo«f%— Embarked  late,  as  I  vdshed  Mr. 
IFrazer  to  overtake  me/  but  came  on  very  well.     His  ca- 
[noes  overtook  us  at  dinner,  at  the  grand  encampment  be- 
low Lake  Pepin.     We  made  the  sandy  peninsula,  on  the 
;ast  at  the  entrance  of  Lake  Pepin,  by  dusk  j  passed  the 
Jauteaux  river  on  the  east,  at  the  entrance  of  the  lake. 
Lfter  supper,  the  wind  being  fair,  we  put  off,  with  the 
itention  to  sail  across.     My  interpreter  (Rosseau)  telling 
that  he  had  passed  the  lake  twenty  times,  but  never 
)nce  in  the  day ;  giving  as  a  reason,  that  the  wind  fre- 
juently  rose  and  detained  them  by  day  in  the  lake — ^But  I 
)elieve  the  traders  true  reason,  generally  is,  their  fears  of 
le  Sauteurs,  as  they  have  made  several  strokes  of  war,  at 
le  mouth  of  this  river,  never  distinguishing  between  the 
Jioux  and  their  traders — However,  the  wind  serving,  I 
iras  induced  to  go  on  ;  and  accordingly  we  sailed.     My 
)at  bringing  up  the  rear,  for  I  had  put  the  sail  of  my 
big  boat  on  my  batteaux,  and  a  mast  of  22  feet.    Mr. 
rrazer  embarked  on  my  boat.     At  first  the  breeze  was 
^ery  gentle,  and  we  sailed  with  our  violins  and  other  mu- 
bic  playing  ;  but  the  sky  afterwards  became  cloudy  and 
mite  a  gale  arose.     My  boat  ploughed  the  swells,  some- 
pmes  almost  bow  under.     When  we  came  to  the  Tra- 
verse, which  is  opposite  to  Point  De  Sable,  we  thought 
most  advisable,  the  lake  being  very  much  disturbed  and 
le  gale  increasing,  to.  take  harbor  in  a  bay  on  the  east. 
)ne  of  the  canoes,  and  my  boat,  came  in  very  well,  and 
pgether ;  but  having  made  a  fire  on  the  point  to  give  no- 
:e  to  our  boats  in  the  rear,  they  both   ran  on  the  bar 
jfore  they  doubled  it,  and  were  near  foundering  j  but  by 


22 


JOURNAL  or  A  VOYAGE 


v: ,    'I 


jumping  into  the  lake  we  brought  them  into  a  safe  harbor. 
Distuice  40  miles. 

nth  Sept,  Tuesday — Although  there  was  every  ap- 
pearance of  a  very  severe  storm,  we  embarked  at  half  past 
6  o'clock,  the  wind  fair,  but  before  we  had  all  hoisted  sail, 
those  in  front  had  struck  theirs.    The  wind  came  on  hard 
ahead.     The  sky  became  inflamed,  and  the  lightning 
seemed  to  roll  down  the  sides  of  the  hills,  which  border- 
ed the  shore  of  the  lake.     The  storm  in  all  its  grandeur, 
majesty,  and  horror,  burst  upon  us,  in  the  Traverse,  while 
making  to  Point  De  Sable ;  and  it  required  no  moderate 
exertion,  to  weather  the  point  and  get  to  the  windward 
side  of  it.     There  we  found  Mr.  Cameron,  who  had  sail- 
ed from  the  prairie  on  the  5th ;  he  had  three  bark,  and  one 
wooden,  canoes,  with  him.     He  had  been  laying  here  two 
days ;  his  canoes  unloaded  and  turned  up  for  the  habitation 
of  his  men ;  his  tents  pitched,  and  living  in  all  the  ease  of 
an  Indian  trader.    He  appeared  to  be  a  man  of  tolerable 
information,  but  rather  indolent  in  his  habits ;  a  Scotch- 
man by  birth,  but  an  Englishman  by  prejudice.    He  had 
with  him  a  very  handsome  young  man,  by  the  name  of  j 
John  Rudsdell,  and  also  his  own  son,  a  lad  of  fifteen.  The  i 
storm  continuing,  we  remainjed  all  day.     I  was  shewn  a 
point  of  rocks  from  which  a  Sioux  woman  cast  herself,  | 
and  was  dashed  into  a  thousand  pieces,  on  the  rocks  be*  | 
low.     She  had  been  informed,  that  her  friends  intended  j 
matching  her  to  a  man  she  despised  ;  and  having  refused 
her  the  man  she  had  chosen,  she  ascended  the  hill,  sing< 
ing  her  death  song ;  and  before  they  could  overtake  her,| 
and  obviate  her  purpose,  she  took  the  lover's  leap  !  and  j 
ended  her  troubles,  with  her  life.     A  wonderful  display ' 
of  sentiment  in  a  savage !     Distance  3  miles. 

18tb  Sept.  Wednesday— Embdiked  after  breakfast. 
Mr.  Cameron,  with  his  boats,  came  on  with  me.     Cros-: 
sed  the  lake,  sounded  it,  and  took  an  observation  at  the; 


iT-ii 


TO  THE  SOURCES  OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI.        23 


upper  end.    I  embarked  in  one  of  his  canoes,  and  we 

came  up  to  Canoe  river,  where  there  was  a  small  band  of 

Sioux,  under  the  command  of  Red  Wing^  the  second  war 

chief  in  the  nation.     He  made  me  a  speech  and  presented 

I  a  pipe,  pouch,  and  buffalo  skin.    He  appeared  to  be  a  man 

iof  sense,  and  promised  to  accompany  me  to  St.  Peters; 

he  saluted  me,  and  had  it  returned.     I  made  him  a  small 

Ipresent.    We  aicamped  on  the  end  of  the  island,  and 

[although  not  more  than  1 1  o'clock,  were  obliged  to  stay 

[all  night.    Distance  18  miles. 

19th  Sept,  Thursday — ^Embarked  early ;  dined  at  St. 
>oix  river.     Messrs.  Frazer  and  Cameron,  having  some 
)U8me88  to  do  with  the  savages,  we  left  them  at  the  en- 
campment ;  but  they  promised  to  overtake  me,  though 
ley  were  obliged  to  travel  until  12  o'clock  at  night.  Fired 
blunderbuss  for  them  at  Tattoo.  The  chain  of  my  watch 
came  unhooked,  by  lending  her  to  my  guard ;  this  was 
very  serious  misfortune. 

20th  Sept,  Friday — ^Embarked  after  sun  rise.  Cloudy 

/ith  hard  head  winds ;  a  small  shower  of  rain ;  cleared 

ip  in  the  afternoon,  and  became  pleasant.    Encamped  on 

prairie  on  the  east  side,  on  which  is  a  large  painted  stone, 

)ut  8  miles  below  the  Sioux  village.    The  traders  had 

^ot  yet  overtaken  me.     Distance  26  1-2  miles. 

21  St  Sept.  Saturday— 'Emhaxked  at  a  seasonable  hour, 

breakfasted  at  the  Sioux  village,  on  the  east  side.     It  con« 

|sts  of  eleven  lodges,  and  is  situated  at  the  head  of  an 

sland  just  below  a  ledge  of  rocks.     The  village  was  eva- 

lated  at  this  time,  all  the  Indians  having  gone  out  to  the 

|inds  to  gather  fols  avoin.     About  two  miles  above,  saw 

iree  bears  swimming  over  the  river,  but  at  f  oo  great  a 

^stance  for  us  to  have  killed  them ;  they  made  the  shore 

sfore  I  could  come  up  with  them.     Passed  a  camp  of 

lioux,  of  four  lodges,  in  which  I  saw  only  one  man, 

pose  name  was  Biack  Soldier,   i  The  garrulity  of  the  wo- 


H 


24 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGli 


'  (' 


(■'    '    i 


men  astonished  me,  for  at  the  other  camps  they  never 
opened  their  lips ;  but  here  they  flocked  round  us  with  all 
their  tongues  going  at  the  same  time  j  the  cause  of  this 
freedom  must  have  been  the  absence  of  their  lords  and 
masters.  Passed  the  encampment  of  Mr.  Ferrebault,  who 
had  broken  his  peroque  and  had  encamped  on  the  west 
side  of  the  river,  about  3  miles  below  St.  Peters.  We 
made  our  encampment  on  the  N.  E.  point  of  the  big  is- 
land, opposite  to  St.  Peters.  The  Mississippi  became  so 
very  narrow  this  day,  that  I  once  crossed  in  my  batteaUx 
with  forty  strokes  of  my  oars.  The  water  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi, since  we  passed  Lake  Pepin,  has.  been  remarka- 
bly red  ;  and  where  it  is  deep,  appears  as  black  as  ink. 
The  waters  of  the  St.  Croix  and  St.  Peters,  appear  blue 
and  /lear,  for  a  considerable  distance  below  their  con- 
fluence. I  observed  a  white  flag  on  shore  to  day,  and  on , 
landing,  discov(;red  it  to  be  white  silk  ^  it  was  suspended  I 
over  a  scaflfold,  on  which  were  laid  four  dead  bodies,  two  j 
enclosed  in  boards,  and  two  in  bark.  They  were  wrap- 
ped up  in  blankets,  which  appeared  to  be  quite  new.  They  I 
were  the  bodies,  1  was  informed,  of  two  Sioux  women] 
(who  had  lived  with  two  Frenchmen)  one  of  their  childrenl 
and  some  other  relative ;  two  of  whom  died  at  St.  Peters! 
and  two  at  St.  Croix,  but  were  brought  here,  to  be  depo-l 
sited  upon  this  scaffold  together.  This  is  the  manner  ofj 
the  Sioux  burial,  when  persons  die  a  natural  death ;  but! 
when  they  are  killed,  they  suffer  them  to  lay  unburiedj 
This  circumstance  brought  to  my  recollection,  the  bonesi 
of  a  man  I  found  on  the  hills  below  the  St.  Croix  ;  the  javl 
bone  I  brought  on  board.  He  must  have  been  killed  od[ 
that  spot.     Distance  24  miles. 

22d  Sept.  Sunday — Employed  in  the  morning,  mea' 
suring  the  river  j  about  3  o'clock  Mr.  Frazer  and  his  pe- 1 
I'oques  arrived,  and  in  three  hours  after,  the  Petit  Cor- 
beau,  at  the  head  of  his  band,  arrived  with  150  warriors. 


TO  THIL  SOURCES  OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI.      ,  95 

They  ascended  the  hill,  in  the  pomt  between  the  Mis- 
issippi  and  St  Peters,  and  gaye  us  a  salute,  a  la  mode 
mage^  with  balls ;  after  which  w  ?.  settled  the  affairs  for 
le  council  the  next  day.  Mr.  Frazer  and  myself  took  a 
fark  canoe,  and  went  up  to  the  village,  in  order  to  see 
[r.  Cameron.  We  ascended  the  St.  Peters  to  the  village, 
nd  found  his  -camp.  (No  current  in  the  river.)  He  en» 
iged  to  he  at  the  council  the  next  day,  and  promised  to 
me  have  his  barge.  The  Sioux  had  marched  on  a  war 
ccursion  j  but  hearing  (by  express)  of  my  arrival,  they 
turned  by  land.  We^were  treated  very  hospitably,  and 
llooed  after  to  go  into  every  lodge,  to  eat.  Returned  to 
camp  about  1 1  o'clock  and  found  the  Sioux  and  my 
^en  peaceably  encamped. 

23d  Sept,  Monday — ^Prepared  for  the  council,  which 
commenced  about  1 2  o'clock.  I  had  a  bower  or  shade, 
tde  of  my  sails,  on  the  beach,  into  which  only  my  gen- 
len  (the  traders)  and  the  chiefs  entered.  I  then  ad- 
;ssed  them  in  ^  speech,  which,  though  long,  and  touch- 
on  many  points,  its  principal  object  was,  the  granting 
land  at  this  place,  falls  of  St.  Anthony  and  St.  Croix, 
making  peace  with  the  Chipeways.  I  was  replied  to  by 
Fils  de  Pinchow,  Le  Petit  Corbeau,  and  I'Original  Leve, 
by  gave  me  the  land  required,  about  100,000  acres, 
}ual  to  200,000  dollars)  and  promised  me  a  safe  .pass- 
for  myself  and  any  chiefs,  I  might  bring  down,  but 
)ke  doubtfully  with  respect  to  the  peace.  I  gave  them 
ssents  to  the  amount  of  about  200  dollars,  and  as  soon 
[the  council  was  over,  I  allowed  the  traders  to  present 
with  some  liquor,  which,  with  what  I  myself  gave, 
equal  to  60  gallons.  In  cMie  half  hour  they  were  all 
)arked  for  their  respective  villages. 
The  chiefs  in  the  council  were : 
Le  Petit  Corbeau,  signed  the  grant. 
'  Le  Fils  de  Pinchow,  do.     . 


H  JOt'HNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE 

Le  Grand  Partisan. 

Le  Original  Leve,  1  War  cluef,  gave  him  my  Other's 

Le  Demi  Douzen,  v    '  tomahawk,  &c.  &c. 

Le  Beccasse. 

Le  Boeuf  que  Marche. 

It  was  somewhat  difficult  to  get  them  to  sign  the 
grant,  as  they  conceived  their  word  of  honor  should  be 
taken  for  the  grant  without  any  mark;  but  I  convinced i 
them  it  was  not  on  their  account,  but  my  own,  I  wish«dr 
them  to  sign  it.* 

24//&  Sept,  Tuesday^—la.  the  morning  I  discovered  my 
flag  was  missing  from  off  my  boat.  Being  in  doubt 
whether  it  had  been  stolen  by  the  Indians,  or  ha4  fallenj 
overboard  and  floated  away,  I  sent  for  my  fiicnd,  thel 
Original  Leve,  and  sufficiently  evinced  to  him,  by  the  ve] 
hemence  of  my  action,  by  the  immediate  punishment  o| 
my  guard,  (having  inflicted  on  one  of  them  corpore 
punishment)  and  by  sending  dow:\  the  shore  three  mile 
in  search  of  it ;  how  much  I  was  displeaised,  that  such ; 
thing  should  have  occurred.  I  sent  a  flag  and  two  carrot) 
of  tobacco,  by  a  Mr.  Cameron,  to  the  Sioux,  at  the  heal? 
of  the  St.  Peters  \  made  a  small  draft  of  the  position  & 
this  place ;  sent  up  the  boat  I  got  from  Mr.  Fisher,  to 
village,  on  the  St.  Peters,  and  exchanged  her  for  a  bargtj 
with  Mr«  Duncan;  my  men  returned  with  the  bard 
about  sun  down.  She  was  a  fine  light  thing,  eight  mi 
were  able  lo  carry  her.    Employed  all  day  in  writing. 

25th  Sept,  Wednesday'-A  was  awakened  out  of  ml 
bed  by  Le  Petit  Corbeau,  (head  chief)  who  came  up  froij 
his  village,  to  see  if  we  were  all  killed^  or  if  any  accide 
had  happened  to  us;  this  was  in  consequence  of  the! 
having  found  my  flag  floating  three  miles  below  their  villag 
(^IS  miles  hence)  from  which  they  concluded  some  affn 

*  See  appendix  to  part  I.  [No.  3]  p.  6,aiul'[No.  4]  p.  9. 


TO  THE  SOURCES  OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI.        87 


ns,  or  ha4  falleni 


lad  taken  pFace,  and  that  it  had  b$en  thrown  overboard. 
Lithough  I  considered  thia  an  unfortunate  accident  for 
le,  I  was  exceedingly  happy  at  its  effect ;  for  it  was 
le  occasion  of  preventing  much  bloodshed  among  the 
ivages.    A  chief  called  the  Outard  ^anche,  had  his  lip 
off,  and  had,  come  to  the  Petit  Corbeau,  and  told  him, 
that  his  (ace  was  his  looking  glass,  that  it  was  spoiled, 
and  that  he  was  determined  on  revenge."     The  parties 
rere  charging  their  gui&,  and  preparing  for  action,  when 
!  the  flag  appeared  ;  like  a  messenger  of  peace,  sent  to 
revent  their  bloody  purposes.     They  were  all  astonished 
see  it ;  the  staff  was  broke.     When  the  Petit  Corbeau 
^ose  and  spoke  to  this  effect :     **  That  a  thing  so  sacred,, 
had  not  been  taken  from  my  boat,  without  violence } 
that  it  would  be  proper  for  them,  to  hush  all  private 
animosities^  until  they  had  revenged  the  cause  of  their 
eldest  brother ;,  that  he  would  immeiliately  go  up  to  St. 
Peters,  to  know  what  dogs  had  done  that  thing ;  in  or- 
der to  take  steps  to  get  satisfaction  of  those,  who  had 
done  the  mischief."     They  all  listened  tp  this  reasoning 
he  immediately  had  the  flag  put  oi5t  to  dry,  and  em- 
rked  for  my  camp.     I  was  much  concerned  to  hear  of 
^e  blood  likely  to  have  been  shed,  and  gave  him  Ave 
rds  of  blue  stroud,  three  yards  of  calico,  one  handker- 
lief,  one  carrot  of  tobacco,  and  one  knife,  in  order  to 
lake  peace  among  his  people.     He  promised  to  send  my 
ig  by  land  to  the  falls,  and  make  the  peace  with  the  Ou- 
ird  Blanche,   Mr.  Frazer  went  up  to  the  village,  and  we 
ibarked  late,  and  encamped  at  the  foot  oT  the  rapids, 
many  places,  I  could  scarce  throw  a  stone  over  the 
iver.    Distance  3  miles. 

2Qtb  Sept.  Tbursday^Emhiiked  at  the  usual  hour, 
id  after  much  labor  in  passing  through  the  rapids,  ar- 
^ved  at  the  foot  of  the  falls  about  3  or  4  o'clock ;  un- 
ied  my  boat,  and  had  the  principal  part  of  her  cargo 


:  i ;  'I 


M 


39 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE 


ii!:i' 


carried  over  the  portage.  With  the  other  boat  however 
full  loaded,  they  were  not  able  to  get  over  th^  last  shoot, 
and  encamped  about  600  yards  below.  I  pitched  my  tent 
and  encamped  above  the  shoot.  The  rapids  mentioned 
in  this  day's  march,  mi^ht  properly  be  called  %  continua- 
tion of  the  falls  of  St.  Anthony,  for  they  aie  equally  en- 
titled to  this  appellation,  with  the  falls  of  the  Delaware 
and  Susquehanna.  Killed  one  deer.  Distance  9  miles. 
2^tb  Sept.  friday~--Brought  f>ver  the  residue  of  my 
loadmg  this  morning.  Two  men  arrived,  from  Mr.  Fra- 
zer,  on  St.  Peters,  for  my  dispatches.  This  business, 
closing  and  sealing,  appeared  like  a  last  adieu  to  the  civi- 
lized  world.  Sent  a  large  packet  to  the  general,  and  a 
letter  to  Mrs.  Pike,  with  a  short  note  to  Mr.  Frazer.  Two 
young  Indians  brought  my  flag  across  by  land,  who  ar- 
rived yesterday*  just  as  we  came  in  sight  of  "the  falls.  I 
made  them  a  preseM  for  their  punctuality  and  expedition, 
and  the  danger  they  were  exposed  to  from  the  journey.— 
Carried  our  boats  out  of  the  river,  as  far  as  the  bottom 
of  the  hill. 

2Stb  Sept  Satu^ay— 'Brought  my  barge  over,  and  put 
her  in  the  river  above  the  &lls— -while  we  were  engaged 
with  her  3-4  miles  from  camp,  seven  Indians  painted 
black  appeared  on  the  heights — ^We  had  left  our  guns  at : 
camp,  and  were  entirely  defenceless — ^It  occurred  to  me  | 
that  they  were  the  small  party  of  Sioux  who  were  ob- 
stinate, and  would  go  to  war,  when  the  other  part  of  the  I 
bands  came  in  ;  these  they  proved  to  be ;  they  wwe  better  j 
armed  than  any  I  had  ever  seen ;  having  guns,  bows,  ar- 
rows, clubs,  spears,  and  some  of  them  even  a  case  of  | 
pistols.     I  was  at  that  time  giving  my  men  a  dram ;  and 
giving  the  cup  of  liquor  to  the  first,  he  drank  it  off* ;  but 
Iwas  more  cautious  with  the  remainder.     I  sent  my  inter- 
preter to  camp  with  them,  to  wait  my  coming;  wishing 
to  purchase  one  of  their  war  clubs,  it  being  made  of  elk 


TO  THE  SOURCES  OF  THE  ^I8SIS«TPPI.        19 

kom,  and  decorated  with  inlaid  work.  This  and  a  set  ol 
)ws  and  arrows,  I  wished  to  get  as  a  curiosity.  But  the 
luor  I  had  given  him,  beginning  to  operate,  he  came 
ick  forme,  but  refusing  to  go  till  I  brought  my  boat,  he 
turned,  and  (I  suppose  being  offended)  borrowed  a  ca- 
and  crossed  the  river.  In  the  afternoon  got  the  other 
)at  near  the  top  of  the  hill,  when  the  props  gave  way, 
id  she  slid  all  the  way  down  to  the  bottom,  but  fortu- 
Itely  without  injuring  any  person.  It  raining  very  hard, 
left  her.     Killed  one  goose  and  a  racoon. 

29th  Sept.  Sunday — I  killed  a  remarkably  large  ra- 
)n.  Got  our  large  boat  over  the  portage,  and  put  her 
the  river,  at  the  upper  landing ;  this  night  the  men 
Lve  sufficient  proof  of  their  fatigue,  by  all  throwing 
emselves  down  to  sleep,  preferring  rest  to  supper...*, 
lis  day  I  had  but  15  men  out  of  22  ;  the  others  were 
:k.  This  voyage  could  have  been  performed  with  great 
^nv^ence,  if  we  had  taken  our  departure  in  June.  But 
\e  proper  time  would  be  to  leave  the  Illinois  as  soon  as 
le  ice  would  permit,  when  the  river  would  be  of  a  good 
fcight.     . 

SOth  Sept.  Afo«^i^y— Loaded  my  boat,  move^  over 

encamped  on  the  island.  The  larg^  boats  loading 
Lewise,  we  went  over  and  put  on  board.  In  the  mean 
le,  I  took  a  survey  of  the  Falls,  Portage,  &c.  If  it  be 
)ssible  to  pass  the  falls  in  high  water,  of  which  I  am 
)ubtful,  it  must  be  on  the  east  side,  about  thirty  yards 
)m  shore ;  as  there  are  three  layer  of  rocks,  one  below 
ie  other.  The  pitch  off  of  either,  is  not  more  than  five 
it ;  but  of  this  I  can  say  more  on  my  return.* 

1st  Oct,  Tuesday — ^Embarked  late.  The  river  at  first 
|>peared  mild,  and  sufficiently  deep ;  but  after  about  four 
bles,  the  shoals  commenced,  and  had  very  hard  water  all 


•  h  M  never  poulbl)?,  as  ascertained  on  my  return. 


» 


A 


so 


JOl/RNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE 


n  I 


\m 


i'!lH 


I'lii 


day;  passed  three  rapids;  killed  one  goose  and  two 
ducks.  This  day  the  sun  shone  after  I  had  left  the  falls  ;| 
but  whilst  there,  it  was  always  cloudy.  Distance  171 
miles. 

2d  Oct.  Wednesday — ^Embarked  at  our  usual  hour  J 
and  shortly  after  passed  some  large  islands  and  remarkably 
hard  ripples.  Indeed  the  navigation,  to  persons  not  deter- 
mined to  proceed,  would  have  been  deemed  impractica. 
ble.  We  waded  nearly  all  day,  to  force  the  boats  off 
shoals,  and  draw  them  through  rapids.  Killed  three  geese 
and  two  swans.  Much  appearance  of  elk  and  deer.  Dis- 
tance 12  miles. 

3d  Oct,  Tbursday'-^Cold  in  the  morning.  Mercury 
at  0*.  Came  on  very  well ;  some  ripples.  Killed  three 
geese  and  one  racoon,  also  a  brelaw,  an  animal  I  had 
never  before  seen.  Water  ripply,  and  shoals.  DistanceJ 
15  1-2  miles. 

4th  Oct.  Friday — Rained  in  the  morning,  but  the! 
wind  serving,  we  embarked,  although  extremely  raw  and! 
cold.  Opposite  to  the  mouth  of  Crow  river  we  found  ai 
bark  canoe,  cut  to  pieces  with  tomahawks  and  the  paddles! 
broke^  on  shore  ;  a  short  distance  higher  up,  w6  saw  fivel 
more ;  and  co^^nued  to  see  the  wrecks,  until  we  fbund| 
eight.  From  the^form  of  the  canoes,  my  interpreter  pro-| 
nounced  them  to  be  Sioux ;  and  some  broken  arrows,  to] 
be  the  Sauteurs.  The  paddles  were  also  marked  with  the! 
Indian  sign  of  men  and  women  killed.  From  all  these! 
circumstances,  we  drew  this  inference,  that  the  canoeii 
had  been  the  vessels  of  a  party  of  Sioux,  who  had  beeol 
attacked  and  all  killed  or  taken  by  the  Sauteurs.  Timel 
may  developc  this  transaction.  My  interpreter  was  mucbl 
alarmed,  assuring  me  that  it  was  probable  that  at  our  firsti 
rencounter  with  the  Chipeways,  they  would  take  us  fori 
Sic  )  traders,  and  iire  on  us  before  we  could  come  to  an| 
explanation ;  that  they  had  murdered  three  Frenchmen, 


TO  THIi  SOURCES  OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI. 


31 


lom  they  found  on  the  shore  about  this  tim^  last  spring ; 
It  notwithstanding  his  information,  I  was  on  shore,  ail 
afternoon  in  puiiuit  of  elk.  Caught  a  curious  little 
^mal  on  the  prairie,  v/hich  my  Frenchman  termed  2iprai- 
mole,  but  it  is  very  different  from  the  mole  of  the 
jites.  Killed  two  geese,  one  pheasant,  and  a  wolf.  Disr 
ice  16  miles. 

5tb  Oct.  Saturday — ^Hard  water  and  ripples  all  day. 

ssed  several  old  Sioux  encampments,  all  fortified.... 

Ifund  five  litters,  in  whi'^h  sick  or  wounded  men  had 

2n  carried.     At  this  place  a  hard  battle  was  fought  be- 

^en  the  Sioux  and  Sauteurs  in  the  yeai*  1 800.     Killed 

goose.     Distance  11  miles. 

6tb  Oct,  Sunday — Early  in  the  morning  discovered 
ir  elk,  they  swam  the  river,   I  pursued  them,  and* 
)unded  one,  who  made  his  escape  into  a  marsh ;  saw 
\o  droves  of  elk.     I  killed  some  small  game,  and  joined 
boats  near  night.     Found  a  small  red  capst  hung  upon 
tree ;  this  my  interpreter  informed  me  was  a  sacrifice  by 
>me  Indians  to  the  bon  Dieu.     I  determined  to  lay  by 

hunt  the  next  day.     Killed  three  prairie  he»s,  and 
\o  pheasants.     This  day  saw  the  first  elk.     Distance  1 2. 
les. 

1th  Oct.  Monday — Lay  by  ill  order  to  dry  my  com, 

loathing,  &c.  and  to  h^ve  an  investigation  into  the  con- 

ict  of  my  sergeant,  against  whom  some  charges  wer< 

chibited.     Sent  several  of  my  men  out  hunting.     I  went 

Awards  evening  and  killed  some  prairie  hens ;  the  hun- 

(rs  were  unsuccessful.    Killed  three  prairie  hens  and  six 

leasants.  ^  . 

8th  Oct.  Xw^J^^jV"— Embarked  early  and  made  a  very 
)od  day's  march ;  had  but  three  rapids  to  pass  all  day, 
)me  woodland  on  the  W.  side,  oak ;  but  the  whole  bot- 
im  covered  with  the  prickly  ash.  I  made  a,  practice,  to 
)lige  every  man  who  complained  of  indisposition,  to 


m 


^ 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE 


'    i'Hi 


march;  by  which  I  had  some  flankers  on  both  sides  of! 
the  river,  who  were  excellent  guards  against  surprize,  | 
they  also  served  as  imnters.  We  haa  but  one  rac«on  kil- 
led by  all.     Distance  20  miles. 

9th  Oct*  Wednesday — ^Embarked  early ;  wind  ahead  ;I 
barrens  and  prairie.  ^  Killed  one  deer  and  four  pheasants, 
Distance  3  miles. 

10th  Oct.  Thursday — Game  to  large  islands  and  strong 
water  eariy  in  the  moaning.  Passed  the  place  at  which 
Mr.  Reinville  and  Mons.  Perlier,  wintered  in  1797; 
passed  a  cluster  of  islands,  more  than  20  in  the  course  of 
four  miles  *,  these  I  called  Beaver  islands,  from  the  im- 
mense sign  of  those  animals,  for  they  have  dams  on  every 
island  and  roads  from  them  every  two  or  three  rod.  I 
*would  here  attempt  a  description  of  this  wonderful  ani- 
mal,  and  its  admirable  system  of  architecture,  was  not 
the  subject  already  exhausted,  by  the  numerous  travellers 
who  have  written  on  this  subjettv  Encamped  at  the  footj 
of  the  Grand  Rapids.  Killed  two  geese,  five  ducks,  and 
four  pheasants.    Distance  16  1-2  miles. 

1  tth  Oct.  ^fiday — Both  boats  passed  the  worst  of  the 
rapids,  by  11  o'clock,  but  we  were  obliged  to  wade  and 
lift  them  over  rocks,  where  there  was  nq|  a  foot  of  water, 
when  at  times  the  next*step  would  be  in  water  over  our 
heads.     In  consequence  of  this,  our  boats  were  frequently 
in  imminent  danger  of  being  bilged  on  the  rocks.     About 
5  miles  above  the  rapids,  our  large  boat  was  discovered 
to  leak  so  fast,  as  to  render  it  necessary  to  unload  her,| 
which  we  did.     Stopped  the  leak  and  reloaded.    Near  aj 
war  encampment,  I  found  a  painted  buckskin  and  a  piece  I 
of  scarlet  cloth,  suspended  by  the  limb  ofc  a  tree  ;  this  ij 
supposed  to  be  a  sacrifice  to  Matcho  Maniton,  to  render? 
their  enterprize  successful ;  but  I  took  the  liberty  of  in- 
vading the  rights  of  his  diabolical  majesty,  by  treating! 
them,  as  the  priests  of  old  have  often  done,  that  is,  con- 


;;i!i 


TO  THE  SOURCES  OF  1  HE  MISSISSIPPI.        3S 


ig  the  sacrifice  to  my  own  use.  Killed  only  two 
icks.    Distance  eight  miles. 

I2th  October,  Saturday. — ^Hard  ripples  in  the  morn- 
Passed  a  narrow  rocky  {^ace,  after  which  we  had 

water.  Our  large  boat  again  sprung  a  leak,  and  we 
re  obliged  agsun  to  encamp  early  and  unload.    Killed 

deer,  one  wolf,  two  geese  and  two  ducks.  Distance 
1-2  miles.  '  "^-'■■r^•'  — ■/■■.^l  .bs-fir 

13tb  October,  Stt»i/iy.— Embarked  early  and  came  on 

U.    Passed  a  handsome  little  river  on  the  east,  which 

j  named  Clear  river  j  water  good.  Killed  one  deer,  one 

^er,  two  minks,  two  geese,  and  one  duck.    Fair  wind. 

:overed  the  first  buf&lo  sign.     Distance  29  miles; 

14-ft&  October,  JWro«<%.— Ripples  ;a  considerable  way.. 

hunters  killed  three  deer,  four  geese,  and  two  porcu- 

When  hunting,  discovered  a  trail,  which  I  sup. 

>d  to  have  been  made  by  the  savages.    I  followed  it 

much  precaution,  and  at  length  started  a  large  bear 
ling  on  vthe  carcase  of  a  deer :  he  soon  made  his  es<< 
Yesterday  we  came  to  the  first  timbered  land  above 
[falls.  Made  the  first  discovery  of  bear  since  we  left 
^Louisi,  e^icepting  what  we  jsaw  three  miles  below  St. 
Itrs.    Distance  17  miles,  t  ,; 

I5tb  October,  TlMWi?;'.-*r-RippIes  all  day.    la  the 

ling  ihet  large  boat  came  up,  and!  once  more  got  my 

together ;  they  had  been  detained  by  taking  in  the 
le.  Yesterday  and  this  day  passed  some  skirts  of  good 
I,  well  timbered,  swaihps  of  hemlock  and  white  pine, 
[ter  very  hard.  The  river  became  shallow  and  full  of 
ids.  We  encamped  (Hi  a  beautiful  point,  on  the  west, 
^w  a  fall  of  the  river  over  a  bed  of  rocks,  through 
:h  we  had  two  narrow  shoots  to  make  our  way  the 

day.    Killed  two  deer,  five  ducks,  and  two  geese. 

day's  march  made  me  think  seriously  of  our  winter- 

E 


111 


(    ■'»,' 


u 


JOUUNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE 


I  'i 


m 


!:'       f!!      » 


ing^gxbund  and  leaving   our  large  boats.    Distance 
miles.  '       .  -iji 

:l6tJ!}  October y  Wedrieiday,-r^\ien  we  arose  in 
morning  £ound  diat  snow  had  fallen  during  the  night  *,  th 
ground  was  covered  and  it  continued  to  snow.     This 
deed  was  but  poor  encouragement  for  attacking  thle  rapidtl 
in  whicfi  we  were  certain  to  wade  to  our  necks*     I 
determined,  however,  if  possible  to  make  la  riviere 
Corbeau,  the  highest  point  ever  made  by  traderii  in  thei 
bark  canoes.     We  embarked,  and  after  four  hours  vroi 
became  so  benumbed  with  cold  that  our  limbs  were  per| 
fectly  useless.     We  put  to  shore  on  the  opposite  side  i 
the  river,  about  two^-thirds  of  the  way  up  the  rapids.   Bui| 
a  large  fire;  ^d  then  discovered  that  our  boats  we 
nearly  half  full  of  water ;  both  having  sprung  large  U 
so  as  to  oblige  me  to  keep  three  hands  bailing.     My 
geant  (Kennerman)  one  of  the  stoutest  men  I  evier  kne 
broke  a  blood-vessel  and  vomited  nearly  two  quarts 
blood.     One  of  my  ccnporals  (Bradley)  also  evacua 
nearly  a  pint  of  blood,  when  he  attempted  to  void 
urine.    These  unhappy  circumstances,  in  addition  to  H 
inability  of  four  other  men,  whom  we  ware  obliged 
leave  on  shore ;  convinced  me,  that  if  I  had  no  regardi 
my  own  health  and  constitution,  I  should  have  some 
those  poor  fellows,  who  were  killing  themselves  40 
my  orders.     After  we  had  breakfasted  and  refreshed 
selves,  we  went  down  to  our  boats  on  the  rocks,  whe 
was  obliged  to  leave  them.    I  then  informed  my  inent 
we  would  return  to  the  camp  and  there  leave  some  of  j 
party  and  our  large  boats.   This  information  was  pic 
and  the  attempt  to  reach  the  camp  soon  accomplished, 
reasons  for  this  step  have  partly  been  already  stated, 
necessity  of  unloading  and  refitting  my  boats,  the  be 


■yy-: 


TO  THE  SOURCES  OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI.  3« 


id  convenience  of  the  spot  for  building  huts,  the  fine  pine- 
>es  for  peroques,  and  the  quantity  of  game,  were  addi- 
)nal  inducements.     We  immediately  unloaded  our  boats 
secured  their  cargoes.   In  the  evening  I  went  out  upon 
11,  but  beautiful  creek,  which  empties  into  the  falls, 
the  purpose  of  selecting  pine-trees  to  make  canoes, 
five  deer,  and  killed  one  buck  weighing  137  pounds, 
my  leaving  men  at  this  place,  and  from  the  great  quan- 
of  game  in  its  vicinity,  I  was  ensured  plenty  of  pro- 
kon  for  my  return  voyage.    In  the  party  left  behind  was 
hunter,  to  be  continually  employed,  who  would  keep 
stock  of  salt  provisions  good.    Distance  233  1-2 
above  the  falls  of  St.  Anthony. 
nth  October^  Thursday. — It  continued  to  snow.     I 
ced  out  in  the  morning  and  killed  four  bears,  and  my 
ter  three  deers.    Felled  our  trees  for  canoes  and  corn- 
iced working  on  them. 

1  ^th  October,  Friday* — Stopped  hunting  and  put  every 

^d  to  work.    Cut  60  logs  for  huts  and  worked  at  the 

This,  considering  we  had  only  two  falling-axes 

three  hatchets,  was  pretty  good  work.    Cloudy,  with 

snow. 

I9th  October,  Saturday* — Raised  one  of  our  houses, 
almost  completed  one  canoe.     I  was  employed  the 
icipal  part  of  this  day  in  writing  letters  and  making 
igements  which  I  deemed  necessary,  in  case  I  should 
^er  return. 

2Qth  October,  5«mi!(zy.— Continued  our  labour  at  the 
ises  and  canoes,  finished  my  letters,  &c.  At  night 
:overed  the  prairie,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  to 
)n  fire  j  supposed  to  have  been  made  by  the  Sauteurs. 
[ished  much  to  have  our  situation  respectable  here,  or 
)uld  have  sent  the  next  day,  to  discover  theniv 


n 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE 


i  a  - 


21st  October,  Mon^^y.— -Went  out  hunting,  but  killed^ 
nothing,  not  wishing  to  shoot  at  small  game.  Our  Iabour| 
went  on. 

22rf  October,  Tuejdayj^'Weat  out  hunting;^  Abo«^ 
15  miles  up  the  creek  saw  a  great  quantity  of  deer ;  but,| 
from  the  dryness  of  the  woods  and  the  quantity  of  brush, 
only  shot  one  through  the  body,  which  made  its  escape. 
This  day  my  men  neglected  their  work,  which  convinced 
me  I  must  leave  off  hunting  and  superintend  the  mea 
Miller  and  myself  lay  out  all  night,  in  the  pine  woods. 

23d  October,  Wednesday* — Raised  another  block, 
house,  deposited  all  our  property  in  the  one  already  cbm 
pleted.  Killed  a  number  of  pheasants  and  ducks,  while 
visiting  my  canoe-makers.    Sleets  and  snow. 

24/^  October,  Thursday.^-^lhe  snow  having  &llen  out 
or  two  inches  thick  in  the  night ;  I  salt  out  one  hunter 
(Sparks)  and  went  out  myself,  Bradley,  my  other  hunter, 
being  sick.  Each  of  us  killed  two  deer,  one  goose,  and^ 
one  pheasant. 

25th  October,  Friday, — Sent  out  men  with  Sparks  to 
bring  in  his  game.  None  of  them  returned,  and  I  supposed 
them  to  be  lost  in  the  hemlock  swamps,  with  which  th( 
country  abounds.  My  interpreter,  however,  whom  I  be 
lieve  to  be  a  coward,  insisted  that  they  were  killed  by  th 
Sauteurs^    Made  arrangements  for  my  departure. 

2Gih  October,  Saturday.'-^hzyx^.Qhodi  my  canoes  anii  | 
found  them  very  small.    My  hunter  killed  three  deerj 
Took  out  Miller  and  remained  out  all  night,  but  killed  no| 
thmg.  ' 

2*1  th  October  5«Mzfojr.—- Employed  in  preparing  oui 
baggage  to  embark. 

2Sth  October,  Monday. — My  two  canoes  being  finisli^  | 
ed,  launched,  and  brought  to  the  head  of  the  rapids,  I  pu 
my  provi^on,  amoiunition,  &c.  on  b'^ard,  intending  to  etir| 


in  preparing  ou 


TO  THE  SOURCES  OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI.        37 

)ark  by  day.  Left  them  under,  the  charge  of  the  senti- 
lel  and  in  an  hour  one  of  them  sunk,  in  which  was  the 
imunition  and  my  baggage :  this  was  occasioned  by  what 
called  a  wind-shock.  This  misfortune,  and  the  extreme 
lallness  of  my  canoes,  induced  me  to  build  another.  I 
id  my  cartridges  spread  out  on  blankets  and  large  fires 
kade  round  them.  At  that  time  I  was  not  able  to  ascer- 
lin  the  extent  of  the  misfortune,  the  magnitude  of  which 
me  can  estimate,  save  only  those  in  the  same  situation 
^th  ourselves,  1500  miles  from  civilized  society ;  and  in 
iger  of  losing  the  very  means  of  defence,  nay  of  ex- 

ice. 
29th  October,  Tuesday. — ^Felled  a  large  pine  and  com- 
snced  another  canoe.  I  was  at  work  at  my  cartridges 
day,  but  did  not  save  five  dozen  out  of  30,  In  at- 
ipting  to  dry  the  powder  in  pots,  blew  it  up,  and  it  had 
sarly  blown  up  a  tent  and  two  or  three  men  with  it. 
lade  a  dozen  new  cartridges  with  the  old  wrapping-paper. 
30tb  October,  Wednesday. — My  men  labored  as  usual. 
)thing  extraordinary. 

31  st  October,  Thursday. — ^Enclosed  my  little  work 
Impletely  with  pickets.  Hauled  up  my  two  boats,  and 
Irned  them  over  on  each  side  of  the  gate-ways ;  by  which 
ieans  a  defence  was  made  to  the  river,  and  had  it  not 
;en  for  various  political  reasons,  I  would  have  laughed  at 
le  attack  of  800  or  1000  savages,  if  all  my  party  were 
Bthin.  For  except  accidents,  it  would  only  have  afforded 
lusement,  the  Indians  having  no  idea  of  taking  a  place 
storm.  Found  myself  powerfully  attacked  with  thtf 
itastics  of  the  brain,  called  ennui,  at  the  mention  of 
ihich  I  had  hitherto  scoffed  j  but  my  books  being  packed 
),  I  was  like  a  person  entranced,  and  could  easily  con- 
nive why  so  many  persons  whc  have  been  confined  to  re- 
bte  places,  acquired  the  habit  of  diinking  to  excess  and. 


58 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE 


jr 


many  other  vicious  practices,  which  have  been  adopted  i 
merely  to  pass  time. 

1st  November y  Friday. — ^Finding  that  my  canoe  would ' 
not  be  finished  in  two  or  three  dayi,  I  concluded  to  take 
six  men  and  go  down  the  river  about  12  miles,  where  we  -I 
had  remarked  great  sign  of  elk  and  buffalo.  Arrived 
there  about  the  middle  of  the  afternoon.  All  turned  out 
to  hunt.  None  of  us  killed  any  thing  but  Sparks  one  doe: 
A  slight  snow  fell. 

2d  November,  Saturday.'— heft  the  camp  with  the  fj 
fullest  determination  to  kill  an  elk,  if  it  were  possible, 
before  my  return.  I  never  had  killed  one  of  those  animals. 
Took  Miller,  whose  obliging  disposition  made  him  agree- 
abk  in  the  woods.     I  was  determined  that  if  we  came  ontl 
the  trail  of  elk,  to  follow  them  a  day  or  two  in  order  to^ 
kill  one.    This,  to  a  person  acquainted  with  the  nature  of  | 
those  Rnimals,  and  the  extent  of  the  prairies  iii  this  country, 
would  appear,  what  it  really  was,  a  very  foolish  resolution,  J 
We  soon  struck  where  a  herd  of  150  had  passed.     Pur- 
sued and  came  in  sight  about  8  o'clock,  when  they  ap. 
peared,  at  a  distance,  like  an  army  of  Indians  moving 
along  in  single  file ;  a  large  buck,  of  at  least  four  feet  be- 
tween the  horns,  leading  the  van,  and  one  of  equal  magni- 
tude bringing  up  the  rear.    We  followed  until  near  night, 
without  once  being  able  to  get  within  point-blank  shot   I 
once  made  Miller  fire  at  them  with  his  musket,  at  aboui 
400  yards  distance :  it  had  no  other  effect  than  to  make 
them  leave  us  about  five  miles  behind  on  the  prairie.: 
Passed  several  deer  in  the  course  of  the  day,  which  il 
think  we  could  have  killed,  but  did  not  fire  for  fear  oif 
alarming  the  elk.    Finding  that  it  was  no  easy  matter  toi 
kill  one,  I  shot  a  doe  through  the  body,  as  I  perceived  by^ 
her  blood,  where  she  lay  down  in  the  snow ;  yet,  noti 
knowing  how  to  track,  we  lost  her.    Shortly  after  ml 


TO  THli  SOURCES  OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI. 


39 


ive  been  adopted ; 


le  snow;  yet, 


)W. 


elk  by  themselves  near  a  copse  of  woods.    Ap- 
froached  near  them  and  broke  the  shoulder  of  one ;  but 
le  ran  off  with  the  other  two  just  as  I  was  about  to  fol- 
Saw  a  buck  deer  lying  on  the  grass ;  shot  him  be- 
d  the  eyes,  when  he  fell  over     I  walked  up  to  him, 
it  my  foot  on  his  horns,  and  examined  the  shot,  immedi- 
:[y  after  which  he  snorted,  bounced  up,  and  fell  five  steps 
tm  me.    This  I  considered  his  last  effort ;  but  soon 
er,  to  our  utter  astonishment,  he  jumped  up  and  ran  off. 
stopped  frequently :  we  pursued  him,  expecting  him 
fall  every  minute,  by  which  we  were  led  from  the  pur- 
it  of  the  wounded  elk.     After  being  wearied  out  in  this 
[successful  chase^  we  returned  in  pursuit  of  the  wound- 
elk,  and  when  we  came  up  to  the  party,  found  him 
assing  from  the  flock.     Shot  another  in  the  body ;  but 
ly  hall  being  small,  he  likewise  escaped^     Wounded 
[Other  deer :  when  hungry,  cold,  and  fiitigued,  after  hav- 
wounded  three  deer  and  twQ  elk,  were  obliged  to  en- 
ip  in  a  point  of  hemlock  woods^  on  the  head  of  Clear 
The  large  herd  of  elk  lay  about  one  niile  from,  up, 
the  prairie.     Our  want  of  success  I  ascribe,  jtO;  the  smal)* 
Bs  of  our  balls,  and  to  our, inexperience  in  following  the 
kck,  after  wounding  them,  for  it  is  very  selclom  a  deer 
ops  on  the  spot  you  shoot  it.;,,,  aM.  ■^^A^^ 
::  3d  November,  S««</«y.—Ro8ei  pretty  early  and  went 
pursuit  of  the  elk.     Wounded  pncbuq^^eer  on  the 
ay.    We  made  an  attempt  to  drive  them  intQ  the  woods, 
it.tl^eir  leader  broke  past  us  and  it  appeared  as  if  the 
rove  would  have  followed,  him  tbpi^h  they  }ad  been 
>Iiged  to  run  over  us>    We  fired  at  them,  passing,  but 
Without  effect.    Pursu^  them  through  the  ^wamp  tilj 
?out  10  o'clock^  when  I  determine^  to  attempt  to  make 
^e  river,  and  fpr  that  purpose  took  a  due  soi^th  course, 
faased  many  droves  of  elk  and  buffalo,  but  b^g  in  the 


irer. 


0  JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE 

middle  of  an  immense  prairie,  knew  it  was  folly  to  attempt 
to  shoot  them.  Wounded  several  deer,  but  got  none, 
In  fact,  I  knew  I  could  shoot  as  many  deer  as  any  body ; 
but  neither  myself  nor  company  could  find  one  in  ten, 
whereas  one  experienced  hunter  would  get  all.  Near 
night  struck  a  lake  about  five  miles  long  and  two  miles  wide. 
Saw  immense  droves  of  elk  on  both  banks.  About  sun 
down  saw  a  herd  crossing  the  prairie  towards  us.  We 
Bat  down.  Two  bucks,  more  curious  than  the  others, 
came  pretty  close.  I  struck  one  behind  the  fore  shoulder: 
he  did  not  go  more  than  20  yards  before  he  fell  and  died. 
This  was  the  cause  of  much  exultation,  because  it  fulfilled 
my  determination,  and,  as  we  had  been  two  days  and 
nights  without  victuals,  it  was  very  acceptable.  Found 
6ome  scrub  oak.  In  about  one  mile  made  a  fire,  and  with 
much  labor gnd  pains  got  our  meat  to  it;  the  wolves 
feasting  on  one  half  while  we  were  carrying  away  the 
other.  We  were  now  provisioned,  but  were  still  in  want 
of  water,  the  snow  being  all  nielted.  Finding  my  drought 
Very  excessive  in  the  night,  I  went  in  search  of  water,  and 
was  much  Surprised,  after  having  gone  about  a  mile,  to 
strike  the  Mississippi.  Filled  my  hat  and  i^etumed  to  my 
companion!^-'  '.T'sv  ai  m  tpi^mutu  •^ydhnuov/  r:i-ii  , 

4th  November,  Mo»<i<2^.— Repaired  my  mockinsons, 
usin^  a  piece  of  elk's  bone  as  an  awL  /We  both  went  to"! 
tht  Mississ^i  and  fdund  we  Wiere  a  great  distance  from 
the  camp.   I  left  Miller  to  guard  the  meat  ahd  marchedforl 
camp.  'Having  strained  my  ancles  in  the  swampsj  they 
^ere  exieihely  sore,  and  the  sttings  of  my  mockinsons! 
cut  thi^m  and  made  them  swell  considerably.    Before! 
had  gone  ht  discoviered  a  herd  ^f  10  elk.     Approa^hedi 
within  50  yardS'  and  ^shot  one  thi-ough  the  body.    He  fell  | 
on  the  spoil  J  but  rose  again  ai^^ran  ofEf  I  pursued  him 
at  least  five  miles,  expecting  every  minute  to  see  hioi 


^ 


TO  THE  SOURCLS  OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI.         41 

rop.  I  then  gave  him  up.  When  I  arrived  at  Clear  river^ 
deer  was  standing  on  the  other  bank.  I  killed  him  on 
spui,  and  while  I  was  taking  out  the  entrails  another 
le  up.  I  shot  him  also.  This  was  my  last  ball,  and 
sn  only  could  I  kill !  Left  part  of  my  clothes  at  this 
:e  to  scare  the  wolves.  Arrived  at  my  camp  at  dusk, 
I  the  great  joy  of  our  men,  who  had  been  to  our  little 
rison  to  enquire  for  me,  and  receiving  no  intelligence, 
concluded  we  were  killed  by  thelndi<tns,  having  heard 
fire  on  the  opposite  bank.  The  same  night  we  saw* 
on  the  opposite  shore  in  the  prairie  i  this  was  like- 
seen  in  the  fort,  when  all  the  men  moved  in  the 
Ifks.  .... 

5th  November  J  Tuesday* — Sent  four  of  my  men  with 
canoe,  loaded  with  the  balance  of  nine  deer,  that  had 
killed,  with  the  other  two.    Went  down  the  river  for 
meat.  Stopped  for  ^.le  deer,  which  I  found  s^.  Mil*; 
[had  just  started  to  march  home,  but  returned  to  camp 
us.    Found  all  the  meat  safe,  and  brought  it  to  the 
r,  where  we  pitched  our  camp. 
6tb  Ncoemberi  Wednesday.'r^At  the  earnest  entreaties 
ly  men,  and  with  a  hope  of  killing  some  more  game» 
reed  to  stay  and  hunt.    We  went  out  and  found  that 
le  elk  and  bufiklo  had  gone  down  the  river  from  those 
the  day  before,  leaving  large  roads  to  point  out  <their 
rse.    This  would  not  appear  extraordinary  to  persons 
lainied  with  the  nature  of  those  animals,  as  the  prairie 
unluckily  caught  fire.     After  Millar  left  the  camp  for. 
ie.  Sparks  killed  two  deer,  about  six  miles  off,  and  it 
ig  near  the  river,  I  sent  the  three  men  down  with  the 
)e,  to  return  early  in  the  morning.     It  commenced 
zing  about  midnight,  and  by  morning  was  six  iiiches 


43 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE 


Ith  November y  Thursday, — Waited  all  day  with  the 
greatest  anxiety  for  my  men.     The  river  became  nearly 
filled  with  snow,  partly  congealed  mto  ice.     My  situation 
can  more  easily  be  imagined  than  described.    Went  down 
the  river  to  where  liunderetood  the  deer  were  killed ;  but 
discovered  nothing  of  my  men.    I  now  became  very  uo. 
easy  on  their  account,  for  I  was  well  aware  of  the  hostile 
disposition  of  the  Indiana  to  all  persons  on  this  part  of  th( 
Mississippi,  taking  them  to  be  traders-^and  we  had  not  ye 
had  an  opportunity  of  explaining  to  them  who  we  were 
Snow  still  continued  falUng  very  fast,  and  was  nearly  knee 
deep.     Had  great  difficulty-  to  procure  wood  sufficient  t; 
keep  up  a  fire  all  night.    Ice  in  the  river  thickening. 
ui//  ^ih  NoveTkber<,  Friday,-^My  men  not  yet  arrived, 
determined  to  depart  for  the  garrison,  and  when  the  rive: 
had  frozen,  to  come  down  on  l^e  ice  with  a  party ^  on 
theVeather  became  mild,  by  waeter,  with  my  other  pc 
rpques,'to  search  for  my  poor  meni'    Put  up  about  tci 
pciiimdis  of  ^leat^'two  blankets,  and  aiibear-skin,  with  mi 
sword  and  gun,  which  inade  for  me  a  very  heavy  load 
Left  the  meat  in  as  gobd  a  situation  as  possible     Wroti 
on  th^  snow  my  wishes,  and  put  my  handkerchief  up  as; 
flag.     Departed.     My  anxiiety  of  mind  was  so  great  that 
notwithstanding  my  load  and  the  depth  of  snow,  I  mad 
inta  the  bottom,  above  our  former  hunting  camp,  a  iitti 
before  nig  ^t.     Passed  several  deer  and  one  elk,  which 
might^probably  have  killed ;  but  not  knowing  whether: 
should  be  able  to  secure  the  meat,  if  I  killed  them, 
bearing  in  mind  that  they  were  created  for  the  use,  and  n 
the  sport  of  man,  I  did  not  fire  at  them.  Whilst  I  was  ei 
deavoring  to  strike  fire  1  heard  voices,  and  looking  roun| 
observed  my  corporai   Meek  and   three   men  passing 
Called  them  to  me,  and  we  embarked  together.     The 


TO  THE  SOURCES  OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI.        43 

ere  on  their  march  down,  to  see  if  they  could  render  us 
^y  assistance  in  ascending  the  river.  They  were  much 
peved  to  hear  my  report  of  my  other  men,  corporal 
idley,  Sparks,  and  Miller. 

9th  November^  Saturday, — Snowed  a  little.     The 

carried  my  pack.  I  was  so  sore  that  it  was  with  diffi- 
ty  I  carried  my  gun ;  fortunately  they  brought  with 

a  pair  of  mockinsons,  sent  me  by  one  of  my  soldiers 
brings),  who  had  rightly  calculated  that  I  was  bare>foot ; 

a  phial  of  whiskey,  sent  by  the  serjeant,  which  were 

very  acceptable  to  me.  They  brought,  also,  some 
Icco  for  my  lost  men.  We  experienced  difficulty  in 
Ising  the  river,  owing  to  the  ice.   Moved  my  command 

the  post,  who  were  again  encamped  out,  ready  to 
kh  up  the  river.  Set  all  hands  to  making  sleds,  in 
;r  that,  the  moment  the  river  closed,  I  might  descend^ 

a  strong  party,  in  search  of  my  lost  men.  Issued  pro- 
)ns,  and  was  obliged  to  use  six  venison  hams,  being 

of  a  quantity  of  elegant  hams,  I  had  preserved,  to  take 

1,  if  possible,  to  the  general  and  some' other  friends. 

the  two  hunters  not  been  found,  I  must  have  become 
|iV('  \o  hunting,  in  oi\ier  o  support  my  party.  The  ice 
•ran  very  thick. 

lOth  November y  Sunday. — Continued  making  sleds, 
news  of  my  hunters.  Ice  in  the  river  very  thick  and 
Raised  my  tent  with  puncheons,  and  laid  a  floor 
It.     • 

Wth  November,  Monday, '^l  went  out  hunting.  -Saw 
two  deer.  Killed  a  remarkably  large  black  fox.  Brad- 
|and  Miller  arrived,  having  understood  the  writing  on 
[snow,  and  left  Sparks  behind  at  the  camp,  to  take  care 
the  meat.  Their  detention  was  owing  to  their  being 
on  the  prairie  the  first  night,  and  not  being  able  to  find 
ir  deer. 


■II 


ia;! 


It.  ■     ''i 

m  3 


m 


:;.  I 


;p 


44 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE 


'12tb  November,  Tuesday.-— jyispztched  Miller  and 
Huddleston  to  the  lower  hunting-camp,  and  Bradley  and 
Brown  to  hunting  in  the  woods.  Made  my  arrangements 
in  camp.    Thawing  weather. 

-  '    1 3th  November,  Wednesday.^  -Bradley  returned  with  a 
very  large  buck,  which  supplied  us  for  the  next  four  days. 

I4th  November,  Thursday.^^it  commenced  raining  at 
four  o'clock,  A.  M.  lightning  and  loud  thunder.  I  went 
down  the  river  in  one  of  my  canoes,  with  five  men,  in 
order  to  bring  up  the  meat  from  the  lower  camp  ;  but, 
after  descending  about  13  miles,  found  the  river  blocked 
up  with  ice.  Returned  about  two  miles,  and  encamped 
in  the  bottom  where  I  had  my  hunting  camp,  on  the  1st. 
inst.     Extremely  cold  towards  night. 

I5th  November,  Friday. — ^When  we  meant  to  embark 
in  the  morning,  found  the  river  full  of  ice  and  hardly  mov- 
ing. Returned  to  camp  and  went  out  to  huht,  for  we  had 
no  provision  with  us.  Killed  nothing  but  five  prairie  hens, 
which  afforded  us  this  day's  subsistence :  this  bird  I  took 
to  be  the  same  as  grouse.  Expecting  the  ice  had  become 
hard,  we  attempted  to  cross  the  river,  but  could  not.  In 
the  endeavor  one  man  feil  through.    Freezing. 

I6th  November,  Saturday.— Det2.ched  Corporal  Meek 
and  one  private  to  the  garrison,  to  order  the  sleds  down. 
No  success  in  hunting  except  a  few  fowl.  I  began  to  con- 
eider  the  life  of  a  hunter  a  very  slavish  life,  and  extremely 
precarious  as  to  support ;  for  sometimes  I  have  myself  (al- 
though no  hunter)  killed  600  weight  of  meat  in  one  day  j 
and  I  have  hunted  three  days  successively,  without  killing 
any  thing  but  a  few  small  birds,  which  I  was  obliged  to  do 
to  keep  my  men  from  starving.     Freezing. 

1  Ith  November,  Sunday. — One  of  my  men  arrived ; 
he  had  attempted  to  make  the  camp  before,  but  lost  hinv 
self  in  the  prairie,  lay  out  all  night,  and  froze  his  toes.  He 


TO  THE  SOURCES  OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI. 


45 


informed  us  that  the  corporal  and  the  men  I  sent  with  him« 
had  their  toes  frost-bitten,  the  former  very  badly ;  that 
three  men  were  on  their  way  down  by  land,  the  river 
above  not  being  froze  over.  They  arrived  a  few  hours 
before  night.    Freezing. 

18/i&  November,  Monday, — ^Took  our  departure  down 
the  river  on  the  ice,  our  baggage  on  the  sled.  Ice  very 
rough.    Distance  12  miles.     Freezing. 

19/A  November y  Tuesday. — Arrived  opposite  our  hunt- 
ing camp  about  noon.  Had  the  meat,  &c.  moved  over. 
They  had  a  large  quantity  of  meat.  I  went  out  and  killed 
a  very  large  buck.     Thawing. 

SO/A  November,  Wednesday*— HeTpzTted  to  return  to 
the  stockade,  part  of  our  meat  on  the  sled  and  part  in  the 
little  peroque  (the  river  being  open  in  the  middle;.  Killed 
four  deer.     Thawing.     Distance  5  miles. 

21  J/  November,  Thursday. — ^Marched  in  the  morning. 
Came  to  a  place  where  the  river  was  very  narrow,  and 
the  channel  blocked  up.  Were  obliged  to  unload  our  pe- 
roque and  haul  her  over.  The  river  having  swelled  a  good 
deal,  at  this  place,  the  ice  gave  way  with  myself  and  two 
men  on  it.  We  seized  the  sled  that  stood  by  us,  with  some 
little  baggage  on  it,  and  by  jumping  over  four  cracks,  the 
last  two  feet  wid*» :  providentially  made  our  passage  good, 
without  loosing  an  individual  thing.  Encamped  opposite 
Clear  river.     Killed  one  deer  and  one  otter.     Freezing. 

22d  November,  Friday. — Were  obliged  to  leave  our 
canoe  at  Clear  river,  the  river  being  closed.  Made  two 
trips  with  our  sled.     Killed  one  deer.     Distance  5  miles. 

23d  November,  Saturday. — Having  seen  a  great  deal 
of  buffalo  sign,  I  determined  to  kill  one  the  next  day  (for- 
getting the  elk  chase).  Encamped  nearly  opposite  our 
camp  of  the  15th  and  16th.  •  Thawing.    Distance  4  miles. 


':!  i 


4» 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE 


24//&  November^  Sunday. — ^Tpok  Miller  and  Boley  and 
went  in  pursuit  of  buffalo.  Came  up  with  some  about  10 
o'clock.  In  the  afternoon  wounded  one.  Pursued  them 
until  night,  and  encamped  on  the  side  of  a  swamp. 
Thawing. 

25th  November,  Monday. — Commenced  again  the 
pursuit  of  the  buffalo,  and  continued  till  1 1  o'clock,  when 
I  gave  up  the  chase.  Arrived  at  the  camp  about  pun  down, 
hungry  and  weary,  having  eat  nothing  since  we  left  it. 
My  rifle  was  too  small  a  ball  to  kill  buffalo :  the  balls 
should  not  be  more  than  thirty  to  the  pound :— an  ounce 
ball  would  be  still  preferable,  and  the  animal  should  be 
hunted  on  horse-back.  I  think  that,  in  the  prairies  of  j 
this  country,  the  bow  and  arrow  could  be  used  to  more 
advantage  than  the  gun ;  for  you  might  ride  immediately 
along  side,  and  strike  them  where  you  pleased,  leaving 
them  to  proceed  after  others.     Thawing. 

26/A  November,  Tuesday. — ^Proceeded  up  the  river. 
The  ice  getting  very  rotten,  the  men  fell  through  several 
times.     Thawing.     Distance  5  miles. 

21th  November,  Wednesday.^^Tock  one  man   and  I 
marched  to  the  post.     Found  all  well.    My  hunter,  Brad- 
ley, had  killed  eleven  deer  since  my  departure.     Sent  all 
the  men  down  to  help  the  party  up.    They  returned  ac- 
companied by  two  Indians,  who  informed  me  they  were  | 
two  men  of  a  band,  who  resided  on  Lake  Superior,  called  j 
the  Fols  Avoins,  but  ^ke  the  language  of  the  Chipeways. 
They  informed  me  that  Mr.  Dickson's,  and  the  other 
trading  houses,  were  established  about  60  miles  below ; 
that  there  were  70  lodges  of  Sioux  on  the  Mississippi. 
All  my  men  arrived  at  the  post.     We  brought  from  our| 
camp  below  the  balance  of  1 7  deer  and  two  elks. 

28th  November,  Thursday. — ^The  Indians  departed! 
much  pleased  with  their  reception.    I  dispatched  corporal 


TO  THE  SOURCES  OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI. 


A  "* 


Meek  and  one,  private  do\frn  to  Dicksoni  with' a  letter, 
i  vrhich  would  tX  iea^t  have  the  efiect  of  attaching  the  most 
powerful  tribes  in  this  quarter  to  my  interest. 

2i>/^  Novemlter,FruIay,»^A  Slows,  (the  son  of  a  war* 
I  riot  called  the  KiUeujl  Roug^y  of  the  Gem  dfs  Feuilks)  and 
aFols.Avoin  camj?  tbithe  post.    He  said  that,  having 
struck  our  trail  JI>elow,  and  findilig  some  to  be  shoe-tracks, 
[he  conceived  it. to  be  the  establishment  of  some  traders, 
[took  it,  and  came  to'  the  post.    He  informed  me  that  Mr* 
Dickson  !had  told  thei  Sioux  >' that  they  might  now  hunt 
[where  they  pleased^as  I  had  gone  a  head  and  would  cause 
[the  Chipeways,  wherever  I  met  them^  to  treat  them  with 
[friendship ;  that  I  had  barred  up  the  mouth  of  the.St. 
'eters,  so  that  no  liquor  could  j  ascend  that  river ;  but 
that,  if  they  came  on  the  Mississippi^  they  should  have 
jrhat  liquor       .  wanted  I'^-abo,  that  I  Was  on  the  river 
id  had  a  gr  .     i  al  of  merchandize  to  give  them  in  pre- 
sents."    Tills  information  of  Mr.  Dickson  to  the  Indiahs 
seemed  to  have  self-interest  and  envy  for  its  motives ;  for; 
}y  the  idea  of  having  prevented  liquoi*  from  going  up  the 
>t;  Peters,  he  gave;the  Indians  to  understand  that  it  was 
,  regulation  of  my  Dwp,,and  .not  a  law  of  the  United 
>ta]:&s  ^  and  by  assuring  them  he  would  sell  to  them  on 
^he  Mississippi,  he  drew  all  the  Indians  irom  thei  traders 
)n  the  St.  Peters,  who  had  adhered  to  the  restriction  of 
lot  selling  liquor,  and  should  any  of  them 'be  killed,  the 
)lame  would  all  lie  on  me«  as  he  had  (without  iiuthdrity) 
lissured  them  they  might  hunt  in  securkyi '  I  took  care  to 
rive  the>young  chief  a  full  explaijation  of  my  idea^  on  the 
^bove.     He  remained  all  night.     Killed  Jwd  deer. 

30t/j  November,  Saturday. — ^I  made  the  two  Indians 
^ome  small  presents.  They  crossed  the  river  and  de- 
t)arted.  Detached  Kennerman  with  eleven  men,  to  bring 
jp  two  canoes..    ... 


A    -.   11 


48 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE 


m 


1st  Decer,ib6r,  Sunday. — Snowed  a  little  in  the  middle 
of  the  day.    Went  out  with  my  gun,  but  killed  nothing. 

2^  December,  Monday.'-^pxrks  arrived  Srom  the 
party  below,  and  informed  me  they  could  not  kill  any 
gar  ^  but  had  started  up  with  the  little  peroque :— <also,  | 
that  Mr.  Dickson  and  a  Frenchman  had  passed  my  detach* 
ment  about  three  hours  before.  He  left  them  on  their  I 
march  to  the  post.  Sparks  arrived  about  10  o'clock  at  | 
night. 

i       3d  December,  Tuesday,— -Mr.  Dickson,  with  one  en.  I 
gagee  and  a  young  Indian,  arrived  at  the  fort.    I  received] 
him  with  every  politeness  in  my  power,  and  after  a  serious 
conversation  with  him  on  the  subject  of  the  informationl 
given  me  on  the  29th  ult  wai^  induced  to  believe  it,  inl 
part,  incorrect.    He  assured  me  that  no  liquor  was  sold  byl 
him,  nor  by  any  h;)uses  under  his  direction.     He  gave  mel 
much  useful  information  relative  to  my  future   route,! 
which  gave  me  great  encouragement  as  to  the  certainty  oil 
my  accompUshing  the  object  of  my  voyage,  to  the  fuUestl 
extent.    He  seemed  to  be  a  gentleman  of  general  com-F 
mercial  knowledge,  and  possessing  much  geographical  ip' 
formation  of  the  western  country,  of  open,  frank,  mni- 
ners.    He  gave  me  many  assurances  of  his  good  wishes] 
for  the  prosperity  of  my  undertaking. 

Asth  December,  Wednesday. — My  men  arrived  with  cnij 
canoe  only.    Calculated  on  returning  them  two  days  afcerl 

Sth  December^  Thursday.--Mr,  Dickson^  with  his  tw()[ 
men,  departed  for  their  station,  after  having  furnished 
with  a  letter  for  a  young  man  of  his  house,  in  Lake  dej 
Sable,  and  a  carte  blanche  as  to  my  commands  on  hin 
Weather  mild*  /• 

-  ji*  6tb  December,  Friday. — I  dispatched  my  men  down 
to  bring  up  the  other  peroque  with  a  strong  sled  on  whic 
it  was  intended  to  put  the  canoe  about  one  third,  and  to  h 


TO  THE  SOURCES  OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI. 


49 


the  end  drag  on  the  ice.    Three  families  of  the  Fo!s 

[Avoins  arrived  and  encamped  near  the  fort:~>also,  one 

Sioux,  who  pretended  to  have  been  sent  to  me,  from  the 

iem  des  Feuities,  to  inform  me  that  the  Y'jictongs  and  Sus- 

litongs  (two  bands  of  Sioux  from  the  head  of  the  St. 

'eters  and  the  Missouri,  and  the  most  savage  of  them) 

lad  commenced ^e  war-dance  suid  would  depart  in  a  few 

lys,  in  wliich  case  he  conceived  it  would  be  advisable  for 

the  Fols  Avoins  to  keep  close  under  my  ^ot^tion ;  that 

lakiig  a  stroke  on  the  Chipeways  would  tend  to  injure 

le  gnmd  object  of  ^  my  voyage,  &c.  &c.    Some  reasons 

iduced  me  to  believe  he-was  avsel£o?eated  envoy ;  how- 

tver^  I  offered  to  pay  hknyorniy  young  Sioux,  who  would 

to  those  bands  anld  carry  my  word.    He  pronused  to 

ie  known  my  wishes  upon  his  return.  My  men  r^urned 

^4he<«vaung  without  my  canoei'hamg  been  so  unfortu- 

ite  as  to  split  her  in  capryio^  lier  over  the  rough  hiHy 

in  the  ripples  below.  So  many  disappointments  alntoolt 

wearied  out  my  p^Sdence ;  but,  notwithstanding,  I  intended 

embaoic  by  land  and  water  in  a  fevk  days. 

Vi  Deeember^  Saturdap'-^An  Indian  (by  the  name 
ChienBlandMi)  of  the  Fols  Avoin  tribe,  with  his  family 
id  cotmecdpns,  arrived  and  encamped  near  the,  stockade, 
[e  informed  me  that  he  teid  wintered  here  for  ten  years 
ist,  that  the  sugar  camp  near  the  stockade  was  where 
^e  made  sugar.    He  appeared  to  be  an  inteibgent  man. 
visited  his  camp  in  the  afternoon,  and  found  him  seated 
midst  bis  children  and  grandchildren,  amounting  }fi  all  to 
;n.    His  wife,  although  of  an  advanced  age,  was  suck- 
ig  two  children,  that  appeared  lo  be  about  two  years  old. 
should  have  taken  them  to  be  twins,  had  not  one  been 
mch  fairer  than  the  other.     Upon  enquiry,  however,  I 
>und  that  the  fairest  was  the  daughter  of  an  Englishman, 
one  of  tlie  Indian's  daughters,  lately  deceased ;  ^nce 


'1     ' 


t  % 


\[ 


ii 


IS 


i 


11 


J-, 


■/■A 


50 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE 


ii.': 


i  ,'!•! 


whose  death  the  grandmother  had  taken  it  to  the  breast 
His  lodge  was  made  of  rushes  {Waited  into  mats,  afi»r  the 
manner  of  the  Illinois.  I  was  obliged  to  give  some  meat 
to  all  the  Indians  who  arrived  at  the  stockade,  at  the  sum 
time  explaining  our  situation.  The  Chien  Blanche  assured 
me  i^. '"  ould  be  repaid  with  interest  in  the  course  of  the 
winte  jrt  that  at  that  time  he  was  \^lthout  any  thing  to 
eat.  £n  fact,  our  hunters  having  killed  nothing  for  several| 
days,  we  ^^e  oiurselves  on  short  allowance. 

^b  December^  Sunday.'^Aa  invalid  Sioux  arrivedl 
with  information,  that  the  bands  of  the  Sussitongs  andl 
Yanctongs  had  actually  determined  to  make  war  on  thel 
Chipeways,  and  that  they  had  formed  a  party  of  150  orl 
160  men,  )>ut  that  part  of  the  Sussitongs  had  refused  tcl 
go  to  the  war,  and  would  be  here  on  a  visit  to  me  die  nextl 
day.  This  occasi(»ied  me  to  delay  crossing  the  river  im{ 
mediately,  on  my  voyage  taLake  Sang  Sue,  as  it  was  pofrl 
fiible  that,  by  having,  a  con^ence  with  them,  I  might  stiSl 
prevent  the  stroke  intended  to  be  made  against  the  Chip^| 
ways.  >  / 

9tk  December^  Monday^-^Prepsired  to  embark.  Exl 
pectii^g  the  Sioux,  I  had  two  large  kettles  of  soup  model 
for  them.  Had  a  shooting-match  with  four  prizes.  The! 
Sioux  did  not  arrive,  and  we  eat  the  soup  ourselves.! 
Crossed  the  river  and  encamped  above  the  rapids.  Wiju!| 
changed  and  it  grew  cold. 

10th  December,  Ttiesday.'-^Aher  arranging  our  sleds'l 
and  pcroque  commenced  our  march,  llie  sleds  on  th(| 
prairie  and  the  peroque  towed  by  three  men*  Found  it| 
extremely  difficult  to  get  along,  the  snow  being  melted  i 
the  prairie  in  spots.     The  men  who  had  the  canoe  wercl 


•  My  slcdg  were  such  as  arc  frequently  «ecn  about  fanners'  yards,  calculiitv'i| 
to  hold  two  barrels  or  400  weight,  in  which  two  men  were  geared  abreast. 


m 


TO  THE  SOURCES  OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI. 


8\ 


to  wade  and  drag  her  over  the  rocks  in  many 

[places.    Shot  the  only  deer  I  saw.    It  fell  three  times,  and 

ir  made  its  escape.    This  was  a  great  disappointment, 

>r  upon  the  game  we  took  now  we  depended  for  our  sub- 
tence.    This  evening  disclosed  to  my  men  the  real  dan- 
^er  they  had  to  encounter.     Distance  5  miles. 

ll/i&  December,  Wednejday»-^lt  having  thawed  aU 
light,  the  snow  had  almost  melted  from  the  prairie.     I 

/alked  on  until  10  o'clock,  and  made  a  fire.  I  then  went 
)ack  wO  look  for  the  peroque,  and  at  &  remarkable  rapid  in 
the  river,  oppc  Jte  a  high  piny  island,  made  a  fire  and 

dted  for  them  to  come  up,  when  we  partly  unloaded.  I 
returned  and  met  the  sleds.  When  we  arrived  at  the 
>Iace  pitched  on  for  our  camp,  sent  the  men  down  to 

isist  the  peroque.  In  the  afternoon,  from  ''bout  three 
>'clock,  we  heard  the  report  of  not  less  tli     50  guns 

-head,  and  after  dusk  much  shooting  on  the  prairie.  I  was 
^t  a  loss  to  know  who  they  could  be,  unless  they  were  Sau^> 
keaux,  and  what  could  be  their  object,  in  shooting  after 

irk.     Kept  a  good  look  out.    Distance  5  miles. 

12th  December,  Thursday.-^The  snow  having  almost 

itirely  left  the  prairie,  we  were  obliged  to  take  on  but  one 
lied  at  a  time  and  treble  man  it.     In  the  morning  my  'n- 
>rpreter  came  to  me  with  quite  a  mardal  air,  and  request- 
ed that  he  might  be  allowed  to  go  ahead  to  discover  what 

idians  we  heard  fire  last  evening.    I  gave  hkn  permission 

id  away  he  went.    Shortly  after,  I  went  out  with  cor- 

^oral  Bradley  and  a  private,  and  in  about  an  hour  over- 

)k  my  partizan,  on  a  bottom  close  to  the  river ;  he  was 

punting  racoons,  and  had  caught  five.     We  left  him,  and 

ter  choosing  an  oicampment,  and  sending  the  private 
^ack,  to  conduct  the  party  to  it,  anxious  to  discover  the 

idians,    the  corporal  and  myself   marched  on.     We 

scended  the  river  about  eight  miles ;  saw  no  Indians ; 
lut  discovered  that  the  river  was  frozen  over^  which 


: 


■•!     'i, 


JOURhfAL  OF  A  VOYAGE 


'i'-i!  ! 


pleased  mt  more,  for  we  would  now  be  enabled  to  walk 
three  times  our  usual  distance  in  a  day.     I  was  much  sur- 
prised  that  we  saw  no  Indians.     After  our  return  to  the! 
camp,  was  told  that  a  Fols  Avoin  Indian  had  met  my  par. 
ty  and  infoimed  them,  that  m  the  rear  of  the  hills,  that| 
bordered  the  prairie,  there  were  small  lakes  which  by  por-i 
tages  communicated  with  Lake  Superior.    That  in  onel 
days  march,  on  that  course,  we  would  find  English  trad| 
ing  houses.    That  the  Chipeways  were  there  hunting.! 
That  the  Sioux  who  had  visited  my  camp  on  the  29th  ultl 
on  hearing  the  firing,  had  prudently  returned,  with  hiil 
companions,  to  the  west  side  of  the  Mississippi,  agreeabljl 
to  my  advice.  How  persons  unacquainted  with  the  search>| 
ing  spirit  of  trade,  and  the  enterprize  of  the  people 
the  north  west  $  would  be  surprized  to  find  ^ople  whc| 
had  penetrated  from  Lake  Superior,  to  laker  little  mor 
than  marshes.     And  it  likewise  points  out  the  difficulty 
putting  a  barrier  on  then*  trade.  All  my  sleds  and  peroque 
did  not  get  i^  until  half  past  10  o'clock.    Saw  a  vc 
beautiful  fox,  red  back,  white  tail  and  breast.     My  inter! 
preter  called  them  Reynard  d' Argent.     I  had  no  opporl 
tonity  of  shooting  him.     Killed  six  racoons  and  one  por| 
cupine*    Fine  day.    Distance  7  miles. 

ISth  December,  Friday. -^^ilLuiQ  double  trips.     Er 
bailed  at  the  upper  end  of  the  ripples.    It  commence 
snowing  at  S  o'clock.     Bradley  killed  one  deer,  anotl 
man  killed  one  racoon.  Storm  continued  until  next  mor 
ing.     Distance  5  miles. 

l^th  December,  Saturday, -^-We  dq)arted  from  on 
encampment  at  the  usual  hour,  but  had  not  advanced  on 
mile,  when  the  foremost  sled,  which  happened  unfbr 
nately  to  carry  my  baggage  and  ammunition,  fell  into 
river.     We  were  all  in  the  river  up  to  our  middles,  ini 
covering  the  things.     Halted  and  made  a  fire.     Came  i 
to  where  the  river  was  frozen  over.    Stopped  and 


TO  THE  SOURCES  OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI. 


5S 


iped  on  the  west  shore,  in  a  pine  wood.    Upon  exsu 

ig  my  things,  found  all  my  baggage  wet  and  some  of 

ly  books  materially  injured ;  but  a  still  greater  injury  was^ 

lat  all  my  cartridges,  and  four  poundfi  of  double  battle 

Sussex  powder  which  I  had  brought  for  my  own  use,  waf 

sstroyed.  Fortunately  my  kegs  of  powder  were  preserved 

ry,  and  some  bottles  of  common  glazed  powder,  which 

rere  §o  tightly  corked,  as  not  to  adrmt  water.     Had  this 

^ot  been  the  case,  my  voyage  must  necessarily  have  been 

irmo3itedy  for  we  could  not  have  subsisted  without  am- 

lunition.     During  the  time  of  our  misfortune,  two  Fols 

Lvoin  Indians  came  to  us,  one  of  whom  was  at  my  stocks 

le,  on  the  29th  ult.  in  company  with  the  Sioux.  I  signified 

them  by  signs  the  place  of  our  intended  encampment, 

invited  them  to  come  and  encamp  with  us.     They  left 

le  and  both  arrived  at  my  camp  in  the  evening,  having 

ich  a  deer  which  they  presented  me ;  I  gave  them  my 

^anoe,  to  keep  until  spring ;  and  in  the  morning  at  part- 

ig  made  them  a  small  present.     Sat  up  until  3  o'clock 

M.  drying  and  assorting  my  ammunition,  ba  jtrage,  &c. 

lilled  two  deer.     Distance  4  miles. 

I5th  December  Sunday, — Remained  at  our  camp  mak« 
ig  sleds.  Killed  two  deer.  Crossed  and  recrossed  seve- 
Indian  trails  in  the  woods. 
16th  December,  Monday.^^Kemslned  at  the  same 
^amp.  Employed  as  yesterday.  Killed  three  deer.  I 
rounded  a  buffalo  in  the  shoulder,  and  by  a  kar  race 
^vertook  him  in  the  prairie  and  gave  him  another  shot  $ 
^ut  it  being  near  night  leit  him  till  morning. 

ntb  December,  Tuesday.-^Depzrted  from  our  agree- 
able encampment  at  an  early  hour.  Found  our  sleds  to 
very  heavily  loaded.  Broke  one  sled  runner,  and  were 
Retained  by  other  circumstances.  Bradley,  Rosseau  (the 
iterpreter)  and  myself  killed  four  deer  and  wounded  five 
Ithers.    Having  eleven  on  hand  already,  I  found  it  neces- 


1  « 

-  y 


I  M 


I 


' 


\  <• 


■  H|f'|> 

t: 

1  r^'^^ 

1 1 '^ 

i| 

1  III 

1  m 

! 

1  ■  ^' 

ill  '■!.  11  ii  ; 

f  r 

■ '! 
* 

!,- 

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1 

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i 

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1 

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1 

1 

i 

Ti  Wlilj 

! 

1        '                  t 

^^H  '' 

m  ^^^^'H'^ 

I^^Hj  ^iiij|li|ii  i 

■m  JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE 

sary  to  leave  behind  some  of  my  other  loading.  At  night 
we  dug  a  hole,  four  feet  deep,  three  feet  wide,  and  dx 
feet  long,  in  which  we  put  one  barrel  of  pork  and  one 
barrel  of  flour,  after  wrapping  them  up  m  seven  deer 
skins,  to  preserve  them  from  the  damp,  we  then  filled  I 
up  the  hole,  and  built  our  fire  immediately  over  it. 
9k.t  rii8th  December,  Tbunday.-^'Did  nnK  get  off  until  8| 
o'clock,  from  the  delay  in  bringing  in  our  meat.  Ic^  tole* 
rably  good.  Began  to  see  the  Chipeway's  encampments  | 
very  frequently,  but  had  not  entirely  left  the  Siodx  coun* 
try  on  the  western  shore.  Beautiful  i»ne  ridges. 
»» •  ^PlOfA  December  y  Thursday,— 'Were  obligal  to  take  to  I 
the  prairie,  from  the  rivers  being  open ;  but  the  snow  was! 
frozen  hard  and  the  sleds  did  not  sink  deep^  so  that  \re| 
made  a  pretty  good  days  journey.  Killed  one  deer  and! 
two  otters.     River  still  open.    Distance  10  miles. 

20th  December,  Friday. — ^Travelled  part  of  the  dayl 
on  tie  pnurie  and  on  the  ice.     Killed  one  deer.     HeardI 
three  reports  of  guns  just  at  sun  set  from  the  opposit 
side  of  the  river.     Deposited  one  barrel  of  flour.     Dis>| 
tance  7  miles. 

2 1st  December,  Saturday. — ^Bradley  and  myself  wentl 
on  ahead,  and  overtook  my  interpreter,  who  had  left  campl 
very  early  in  hopes  that  he  would  be  able  to  see  the  riverl 
De  Corbeau,  where  h6  had  twice  wintered.  He  was  im.[ 
mediately  opposite  to  a  large  island,  which  he  supposed  to| 
have  great  resemblance  to  an  island,  opposite  the  mouth  < 
the  above  river ;  but  finally  he  concluded,  it  wad  not  thel 
island,  and  returned  to  camj».  But  this  was  actually  the! 
river,  as  we  discovered  when  we  got  to  the  head  of  thej 
island,  from  which  we  could  see  the  river's  entrance....! 
This  fact  exposes  the  ignorance  and  inattention  of  the! 
French  and  traders,  and  with  the  exception  of  a  few  intell 
ligent  men,  what  little  confidence  is  to  be  placed  on  theirl 
information.     We  ascended  the  Mississippi,  about  five| 


TO  THE  SOURCES  OF  THi:  MISSISSIPPI.         U 


ss  sbove  the  confluence ;  found  h  not  froaen ;  but  in 

ly  places,  not  more  than  one  hundred  yards  over; 

ild  and  still.    Indeed  all  the  appearance  of  a  small  river 

^f  a  low  country.     Returned  and  found  my  party,  hav* 

ig  broke  sleds,  &c.  had  only  made  good  3  miles,  while 

had  marched  S5. 

22d  December^  Sunday, — Killed  three  deer.     Owing 
the  many  difficult  places  we  had  to  pass,  made  but  4 
1-2  miles. 

^3d  December^  Monday — ^Never  did  I  undergo  more 

itigue,  in  performing  the  duties  of  hunter,  spy,  guide, 

)mmanding  officer,  &c.    Sometimes  in  front ;  sometimes 

the  rear ;  frequently  in  advance  of  my  party  10  or 

\5  miles ;  that  at  night  I  was  scarcely  able  to  make  my 

>tes  intelligible.     Killed  two  racoons.     From  our  sleds 

freaking  down,  and  having  to  make  so  many  portages  on 

le  road,  made  but  4  miles. 

24/^  December,  Tuesday. — ^Took  the  latitude  of  the 

He  De  Corbeau,  and  found  it  to  be  in  45°  49'  50'''  N. 

le  Mississippi  becomes  very  narrow  above  the  river  De 

porbeau,  and  as  if  it  were  the  forks,  changes  its  direction 

l^cmi  hard  W.  to  N.  E.  generally.  Distance  10  1-2  miles. 

2Stb  December,  Wednesday.'^Mzrched  and  encamped 

1 1  o'clock.     Gave  out  two  pounds  of  extra  meat,  two 

)unds  of  extra  flour,  one  gill  of  whiskey,  and  some  to- 

icco  per  man ;  this,  in  order  to  distinguish  Christmas 

ly.    Distance  3  miles. 

26tb  December,  Thursday. — Broke  four  sleds ;  broke 
^to  the  river  four  times,  and  had  four  carrying  places, 
ice  we  left  the  river  De  Corbeau.     The  timber  was  all 
pllow  and  pitch  pine,  of  which  there  were  scarcely  any 
?low.    Distance  3  miles. 

27/A  December,  Friday. — After  two  carrying  places, 

arrived  where  the  river  was  completsly  closed  with  ice  j 

ter  which  we  proceeded  with  some  degree  of  speed  and 


i1 


'i      : 


«M 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE 


II"  ■■  ■;■. 


I    '  ill 


ease.  Killed  one  bear.  The  country  on  both  ddes,  pttl 
sented  a  dreary  and  barren  prospect  of  high  rocks,  vnAf 
dead  pine  timber.     Snow.    Distance  10  miles. 

2Sth  December^  Saturday.'-^Two  sleds  fell  througll 
^  ice.     In  the  morning  passed  a  very  poor  country ; 
knobs  on  each  side ;  but  towards  evening  the  botton 
became  largo*,  and  the  pine  ridges  better  timbered.  Bi 
ley  and  myself  marched  10  miles  beyond  the  sleds.  Kille 
one  deer.     Distance  12  miles. 

29tb  December,  Strnday-^-'Cold  windy  day.  Met  wid 
00  material  interruptions ;  passed  some  rapids. ,  The  snc 
blew  from  the  woods  on  to  the  river.    The  country  ful 
of  small  lakes,  some  9  miles  in  circumference.     Distano 
21  miles. 

SOth  December,  Monday.-^The  snow  having  drifte 
on  the  ice,  retarded  tile  sleds^    Numerous  small  lakes 
pine  ridges  continued.    A  new  species  of  pine,  called 
French  Sap  pine.     Killed  one  otter.     Distance  12  miles.! 

3lst  December,  Tuesday.'— F2iSS€d  Pine  river  about  l| 
o'clock.     At  its  mouth  there  was  a  Chipeway's  enca 
ment  of  fifteen  lodges,   this  had  been  occupied  in 
summer,  but  ift  now  vacant.     By  the  significadons  of  die{ 
marks,  we  understood,  that  they  had  marched  a  party  i 
50  warriors  against  the  Sieux ;  and  had  killed  four  m^ 
and  four  women,  which  were  represented  by  images 
ed  out  of  pine  or  cedar.     The  four  men  pamted  and 
in  the  ground  to  the  middle,  leaving  above  ground  tho 
parts  which  are  generally  concealed ;  by  their  sides  wa 
four  painted  poles,  sharpened  at  the  end  to  represent 
womw.     Near  this  were  poles  with  deer  skins,  plumej 
silk  handkerchiefs,  &c.     Also  a  circular  hoop  of  ce 
with    something  attached^  representing  a  scalp.     Nd 
each  lodge  they  had  holes  dug  in  the  ground,  and  bougll 
ready  to  cover  them,  as  a  retreat  for  their  women 
children  if  attacked  by  the  Sioux,  &c. 


Hi 


TO  THE  SOURCES  OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI. 


57 


li/  Jamary  1806,  Wednesday. — ^Passed  six  very  ele- 
mt  bark  canoes,  on  the  bank  of  the  river,  which  had 
en  laid  up  by  the  Chipeways  ;  also  a  camp  which  we 
mcdved  to  have  been  e.acuated  about  ten  dayn.     My 
iterpreter  came  after  me  in  a  great  hurry,  conjuring  me 
>t  to  go  so  far  ahead,  and  assured  me  that  the  Chipeways, 
icountering  me  without  an  interpreter,  party,  or  flag^ 
)uld  certainly   kill  me^     But,   notwithstanding  this,  I 
(ent  on  several  miles  farther  than  usual,  in  order  to 
ike  any  discoveries  that  were  to  be  made  ;  conceiving 
^e  savages  not  so  barbarous  or  ferocious,  as  to  fire  )n 
ro  men,  (I  had  one  with  me)  who  were  apparently  coming 
to  their  country,  trusting  to  their  generosity ;  and  know- 
that  if  we  met  only  two  or  three  we  were  equal  to 
|em,  I,  having  my  gun  and  pistols,  and  he  his  buck 
W.     Made  some  extra  presents  for  new  years  day. 
2d  January^  Thursday — ^Fine  warm  day.     Discover- 
fresh  sign  of  Indians.    Just  as  we  were  encamping  at 
rht,  my  sentinel  informed  us,  that  some  Indians  were 
[ming  full  speed  upon  our  trail  or  track.     I  ordered  my 
sn  to  stand  by  their  guns  carefully.    They  were  imme- 
^ely  at  my  camp,  and  saluted  the  flag  by  a  discharge  of 
Pee  pieces;  when  four  Chipeways,    one  Englishman, 
a  Frenchman  of  the  N.  W.  company  presented  them- 
ives.     They  informed  us  that  some  women  having  dis- 
^ered  our  trail  gave  the  alarm,  and  not  knowing,   ■>•:  it 
|s  their  enemies,  they  had  departed  to  make  a  discovery, 
ley  had  heard  of  us  and  revered  our  flag.     Mr.  Grant, 
Englishman,  had  only  arrived  the  day  bofbre  from 
te  De  Sable ;  from  which  he  marched,  in  one  day  and 
kalf.    I  presented  the  Indians  with  half  a  deer,  which 
received  thankfully,  for  they  had  discovered  our  fires 
le  days  ago,  and  believing  it  to  be  the  Sioux,  they 
2d  not  leave  their  camp.     They  returned,  but  Mr. 
ant  remained  all  night. 

H 


\!*l 


'    !•  ';■ 


.'4; 


5«. 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE 


3d  January,  Friday. — My  party  inarched  early,  but . 
I  returned  with  Mr.  Grant  to  his  establishment  on  the  Red 
Cedar  Lake,  havmg  gne  corporal  with  me.  When  we 
came  in  sight  of  his  house,  I  observed  the  flag  of  Great 
Britain  flying.  T  felt  indignant,  and  cannot  say  what  my 
feelings  would  have  excited  me  to,  had  he  not  informed 
me,  that  it  belonged  to  the  Indians.  This  was  not  much 
more  agreeable  to  me.  After  explaining  to  a  Chipeway 
warrior  (called  Curly  Head)  the  object  of  my  voyage,  and 
receiving  his  answer,  that  he  would  remain  tranquil,  until 
my  return.  We  eat  a  good  breakfast  for  the  country,  de- 
parted and  overtook  my  sleds,  just  at  dusk.  Killed  one 
porcupine.    Distance  16  miles. 

4/A   January,    Saturday. — ^We  made  twenty  eight  | 
points  in  the  river  j  broad,  good  bottom,  and  of  the  usual  j 
timber.    In  the  night  I  was  awakened  by  the  cry  of  the| 
sentinel,  calling  repeatedly  to  the  men ;  at  length  he  voci- 
ferated, "  G — d  d — n  your  souls,  will  you  let  the  lieut-l 
enant  be  burned  to  death?"    This  immediately  aroused 
me,  at  first  I  seized  my  arms,  but  looking  round,  I  saw 
my  tents  in  flames.    The  men  flew  to  my  assistance,  andl 
we  tore  them  down,  but  not  until  they  were  entirely  ruin- 
ed.  This,  with  the  loss  of  my  leggins,  mockinsons,  socks,! 
&c.  which  I  had  hung' up  to  dry,  was  no  trivial  misforl 
tune,  in  such  a  country,  and  on  such  a  voyage.     But  ll 
had  reason  to  thank  God  ihdt  the  powder,  three  small 
casks  of  which  I  had  in  my  tent  did  not  take  fire,  if  itl 
had,  I  must  certainly  have  lost  all  my  baggage,  if  not  myl 
life. 

Sth  January,  Sunday.-^^Mr.  Grant  promised  to  over  I 
take  me  yesterday,  but  has  not  yet  arrived.  I  conceived! 
it  would  be  necessary  to  attend  his  motions,  with  carefiil| 
observation.     Distance  27  miles. 

6th  January,  Mondhy. — Bradley  and  myself  walkedl 
up  31  points,  in  hopes  to  discover  Lake  De  Sable ;  buj 


TO  THE  SOURCES  OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI.        5» 


finding  a  near  cut  of  20  yards  for  ten  nules,  and  being 
fearful  the  sleds  would  miss  it,  we  returned  23  points  be- 
fore we  found  our  camp.  They  had  made  only  eight 
points.  Met  two  Frenchmen  of  the  N.  W.  company  with 
about  180  pounds  on  each  of  their  backs,  with  rackets 
on  'f  they  informed  me  that  Mr.  Grant  had  gone  on  with 
the  Frenchman.  Snow  fell  all  day,  and  was  diree  feet 
deep.    Spent  a  miserable  night. 

7tb  January y   Tuesday, — Made  but  1 1  miles,  and 
then  were  obliged  to  send  a-head  and  make  fires  every 
3  miles ;  notwithstanding  which,  the  cold  was  so  intense, 
that  some  of  the  men  had  their  noses,  others  their  fingers, 
and  others  their  toes  irozen,  before  they  felt  the  cold  sen- 
sibly.    Very  severe  days  march.  ,  ';;;, 
l^th  January,  W^^««^i(zy.— Conceiving  I  was  at  no 
great  distance  from  Sandy  Lake,  I  left  my  sleds,  and 
with  corporal  Bradley,  took  my  departure  for  that  place, 
I  intending  to  send  him  back  the  same  evening.     We  walki* 
I  ed  on  very  briskly  imtil  near  night,  when  we  met  a  young 
I  Indian,  one  of  those  who  had  visited  my  camp  near  Red 
Cedar  Lake.    I  endeavored  to  explain  to  him,  that  it  was 
my  wish  to  go  to  Lake  De  Sable  that  evening.     He  re- 
turned with  me,  until  we  came  to  a  trail  that  led  across 
the  woods,  this  he  dgnified  was  a  near  course.     I  went 
[this  course  with  him,  and  shortly  after  found  myself  at 
a  Chipeway  encampment,  to  which  I  believe  the  friendly 
I  savage  had  enticed  me  with  an  expectation  that  I  would 
tarry  all  night,  knowing  that  it  was  too  late  for  us  to  make 
the  lake  in  good  season.  But  upon  our  refusing  to  stay,  he 
[put  us  in  the  right  road.    We  arrived  at  the  place  where 
[the  track  left  the  Mississippi,  at  dusk,  when  we  traversed 
labout  two  leagues  of  a-  wilderness,  without  any  very  great 
iifficulty,  and  at  length  struck  the  shore  of  Lake  De 
Jable,  over  a  branch  of  which  our  course  lay.    The  snow 
laving  covered  the  trail  made  by  the  Frenchmen  who  had 


y^ 


'  ■-■' "  11} ' 


5  >  .  f 


60 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE, 


ifv 


passed!  before  with  the  rackets,  I  was  fearful  of  lobsingl 
ourselves  on  the  lake ;  the  consequence  of  which  caki  onlyl 
be  conceived  by  those  who  have  been  exposed  cwi  a| 
lake,  or  naked  plain,  a  dreary  night  of  January,  in  latil 
tude  47**  and  the  thermometer  below  O.    Thinking  thatj 
we  could  observe,  the  bank  of  the  other  shore,  we  kep 
a  straight  course,  and  sometime  after  discovered  lights] 
and  on  our  arrival  were  not  a  little  surprised  to  find ; 
large  stockade.     The  gate  being  open,  we  entered  anil| 
proceeded  to  the  quarters  of  Mr.  Grant,  where  we  wer 
treated  with  the  utmost  hospitality. 

Qth  January i  TA«rj</ay.— Marched  the  corporal  early] 
an  order  that  our  men  should  receive  assurances  of  on 
safety  and  success.  He  carried  with  liim  a  small  keg 
spirits,  a  present  from  Mr.  Grant.  The  establishment  i 
this  place  was  formed  twelve  years  since,  by  the  N.  "Wj 
company,  and  was  formerly  under  the  charge  of  a  Ml 
Charles  Brusky.  It  has  attained  at  present  such  regularitjl 
as  to  permit  the  superintendant-  to  live  tolerably  comforj 
table.  They  have  horses  they  procured  from  Red  rive 
of  the  Indians ;  raise  plenty  of  Irish  potatoes,  catch  pikel 
suckers,  pickerel,  and  white  fish  in  abundance.  The] 
have  also  beaver,  deer,  and  moose  \  but  the  provision  thej 
chiefly  depend  upon,  is  wild  oats,  of  which  they  purcha 
great  quantities  from  the  savages,  giving  at  the  rate 
about  one  dollar  and  a  half  per  bushel.  But  flour,  porlj 
and  salt,  are  almost  interdicted  to  persons  not  principa 
in  the  trade.  Flour  sells  at  half  a  dollar;  salt  adollarj 
pork  80  cents;  sugar  half  a  dollar.;  coffee  ,  andtef 
4  dolls.  50  per  pound.  The  sugar  is  obtained  from  tb 
Indians,  and  is  made  from  the  maple  tree. 

lOth  January y  Friday, — Mr*  Grant  accompanied 
to  the  Mississippi,  to  mark  the  place  for  my  boats, 
leave  the  river.  This  was  the  first  time  I  marched 
rackets.    I  took  the  course  of  the  Lake  River,  from  i 


,;!  1 :   "ii 


TO  THli  SOURGIiS  OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI.  61 


iiQUth  to  the  lake.  Mr.  Oratit  fell  through  the  i^^  wit)> 
MS  rackets  on,  and  cotild  not  have  got  out,  without  assis- 
mce. 

nth  January y  &z/(^r J!iz/»— Remained  all  day  within 
luarters. 

}2tb  Januryy  S««<%.— i-Went put  ^  met  my  men 
)ut  16  miles,    A  tree  had  fallen  on  one  of  them  and 
^urt  him  very  much,  which  induced  me  to  di$rps§  a  sled 
id  put  the  loading  on  the  others.  '      : 

1  Sth  January y  Monday, — ^After  encountering  niuch 
ifficulty,  we  arrived  at  the  establishment  of  the  N.  W. 
)mpany,  on  Lake  De  Sable,  a  little  before  night.  The 
;e  being  very  bad  on  the  Lake  River,  owing  to  the  many 
)rings  and  marshes,  one  sled  fell  through.  My  men  had 
excellent  room  furnished  them,  and  were  presented 
irith  potatoes  and  fille.**  Mr.  Grant  had  gone  to  an  In- 
|ian  lodge  to  receive  his  credits. 

\4tth  January,  Tuesday » — Crossed  the  lake  to  the 

korth  side,  that  I  might  take  an  observation  ;  found  the 

it.  46°  9'  2Qf'  N.     Surveyed  that  part  of  the  lake.     Mr. 

rrant  returned  from  the  Indian  lodges.     They  brought  a 

lantity  of  furs  and  eleven  beaver  carcases. 

\5th  January,  Wednesday* — ^Mr.  Grant  and  myself 
lade  the  toiir  of  the  lake,  with  two  men,  whom  I  had, 
>r  attendants.  Found  it  to  be  much  larger,  than  could 
imagmed  at  a  view.  My  men  sawed  stocks  for  the 
^ds,  which  I  found  it  necessary  to  construct  after  the 
lanner  of  the  country.  On  our  march,  met  an  Indian 
>ming  into  the  fort ;  his  countenance  expressed  no  little 
stonishment,  when  told  who  I  was  and  from  whence  I 

J  for  the  people  in  this  country  themselves  acknow- 
^dge,  that  the  savages  hold  in  greater  veneration,  the 
Linericans,  than  any  other  white  people.     They  say  of 


I 


r^'- 


^5 


I 


i\ 


1 


\  I    i 


M 


A  cant  term  fur  a  dram  of  spirits. 


63 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE 


US.  when  alluding  to  warlike  atchievements,  that  **  we 
<*  are  neither  Frenchmen  nor  Englishmen,  but  white  In«| 
"  dians." 

1 6th  January,  Tbursday.'-^ljaid  down  Lake  De  Sable,  I 
See,    A  young  Indian  whom  I  had  engaged,  to  go  as  a 
guide  to  Lake  S  ig  Sue,  arrived  from  the  woods. 

17 th  Janunry^  FWi«y.— Employed  in  makmg  sleds,*  I 
(or  traineau  de  glace)  after  the  manner  of  the  country.! 
Two  other  Lidians,  arrived  from  the  woods.  Engaged  ii| 
writing. 

\%th  January,  Saturday.'-^Busy  in  preparing  my  bag'j 
gage,  &c.  for  my  departure  for  Leech  Lake,  Reading,  &c| 

19th  January,  Sunday,'—Emp\oyed  as  yesterday...,! 
Two  m«i  of  the  N.  W.  company  arrived  from  the  Fondl 
du  Lac  Superior  with  letters;  one  of  which  was  froin! 
their  establishment,  in  Athapuscow,  and  had  been  since  lastl 
May,  on  the  route.  While  at  this  post  I  eat  roasted  bea j 
vers,  dressed  in  every  respect,  as  a  pig  is  usually  dressedl 
with  us  ;  it  was  excellent.  I  could  not  discern  the  leasJ 
taste  of  Des  Bois.  I  also  eat  boiled  moose's  head,  whicii| 
when  well  boiled,  I  consider  equal  to  the  tail  of  the  bea 
ver ;  in  taste  and  substance  they  are  much  alike. 

20th  January,  Monday, — ^The  men,  with  the  sledsJ 
took  their  departure  about  2  o'clock.  Shortly  after  I  folj 
lowed  them.  We  encamped  at  the  portage  between  tbef 
Mississippi  and  Leech  Lake  River.  Snow  fell  in  m 
night. 

2lst  January,  Tuesday. — Snowed  in  the  morning,  buJ 
crossed  about  9  o'clock.  I  had  gone  on  a  few  pointsj 
when  I  was  overtaken  by  Mr.  Grant,  who  informed  ma 
that  the  sleds  could  not  get  along,  in  consequence  of  wa] 
ter  being  on  the  ice  j  "he  sent  his  men  forward  ;  we  re 


*  Thoee  sleds  tvrc  made  of  a  single  plank  turned  up  at  ohe  end  like  a  iidd 
|le«d,  and  the  baggage  is  lashed  on  in  ba;^s  aiyl  wcks. 


TO  THE  SOURCES  OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI. 


at  otic  end  like  a  fidil 


led  and  met  the  sleds  which  had  scarcely  advanced  one 
lile.  We  unloaded  them,  sent  eight  men  back  to  the 
)st,  with  whatever  might  be  denominated  extra-articles ; 
It  in  the  hurry  sent  my  salt  and  ink.  Mr.  Grant  en- 
jped  with  me  and  marched  early  in  the  morning. 

22d  January,  Wednesday, — ^Made  a  pretty  good  days 
^umey.  My  Indian  came  up  about  noon.  Distance  20 
iiles. 

23d  January  Thursday, — ^Marched  about  18  miles, 
porgot  my  thermometer,  having  hung  it  on  a  tree.  Sent 
\o\tj  back  five  miles  for  it.  My  young  Indian  and  my- 
;lf  killed  e^ht  partridges ;  took  him  to  live  whh  me. 

24//&  January,  Friday, — At  our  encampment  this 
|ight,  Mr.  Gnint  had  encamped  on  the  night  of  the 
ime  day  he  left  me ;  it  was  three  days  march  for  us.  In 
le  evening  the  father  of  his  girl,  camd  to  my  camp  and 
^aid  all  night ;  he  appeared  very  friendly,  and  was  very 
>mmunicative,  but  having  no  interpreter,  we  made  but 
ttle  progress  in  conversation.  It  was  late  before  the  men 
ime  up. 

25th  January,  Saturday. — ^Travelled  almost  all  day 

trough  the  lands,  and  found  them  much  better  than  usual. 

)ley  lost  the  Sioux  pipe  stem,  v/hich  I  carried  along,  for 

*e  purpose  of  making  peace  with  the  Chipeways  ;  I  sent 

im  back  for  it,  he  did  not  return  until  1 1  o'clock  at  night. 

was  very  warm ;  thawing  all  day.     Distance  44  points. 

2Qth  January,  Sunday. — I  left  my  party,  in  order  to 
roceed  to  a  house  (or  lodge)  of  Mr.  Grants,  on  the  Mis- 
Issippi,  where  he  was  to  tarry  until  I  overtook  him.  Took 
[ith  me  my  Indian,  Boley,  and  some  trifling  provision  j 
|e  Indian  and  myself  marched  so  fast,  that  we  left  Boley 
the  route,  about  8  miles  from  the  lodge.  Met  Mr. 
[rant*s  men,  on  their  return  to  Lake  De  Sable,  having 
tracuated  the  house  this  morning,  and  Mr.  Grant  having 
irched  for  Leech  Lake.     The  Indian  and  I  arrived  be- 


*m 


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'!  'Illi ! 


64 


•JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE 


fore  sun  down.  Passed  the  night  very  uncomfortably, 
having  nothing  to  eat,  not  much  wood,  nor  any  blankets,] 
The  Indian  slept  soui\d.  I  cursed  his  insensibility,  beinjj 
obliged  to  content  myself  over  a  few  coals  aU  night. 
ley  did  not  arrive.  In  the  night  the  Lidiae  mentioxie 
something  about  his  son,  &c. 

21  th  January g  Monday. — My  Indian  rose  e.';riy,    ten* 
ded  his  mockinsons,  then  expressed  by  si..: as  somethiiijg 
about  his  son  and  the  Frenchuian  we  met  yesterday.   Con| 
ceiving  that  he  wished  to  send  some  message  to  his  familv| 
I  suffered  him  to  depart.     After  his  departure  1  feil  xt. 
ciiniu  of  si^litude,  although  he  truly  was  no  c  niipim?|. 
B';ky  anived  about  10  o'clock.    He  said  that  he  had  i(^' 
lowcJ  lis  until  soiiie  time  in  the  night,  when  believing  thai 
he  coiU  J  not  overtake  us,  he  stopt  and  made  a  fire,  bij 
having  no  axe  to  cut  wood,  he  was  near  freezing.   He  mcj 
the  Indians,  who  made  him  signs  to  go  on.     I  spent 
day  in  putting  my  gun  in  order,  mending  my  mockjnsoii! 
&c.     Provided  plenty  of  wood,  still  found  it  cold,  witj 
but  one  blanket.     I  can  only  account  for  the  gentlemen  i 
the  N.  W.  company,  contenting  themselves  in  this  wildej 
ness  for  10,  15,  and  some  of  them  for  20  years,  by  ti) 
attachment  they  contract  for  the  Indian  women.    It  ai 
pears  to  me,  that  the  wealth  of  nations  would  not  indue] 
me  to  remain  secluded  from  the  society  of  civilized  ma 
kind,  surrounded  by  a  savage  and  unproductive  wiidei 
ness,  without  books  or  other  sources  of  intellectual 
joyment,  or  being  blessed  with  the  cultivated  and  feeli 
mind,  of  a  civilized  fair. 

2Sth  January,  Tuesday, — ^Left  our  encampment  atl 
good  hour  ;  unable  to  find  any  trail,  passed  through  one[ 
the  most  dismal  cypress  swamps  I  ever  saw,  and  strua 
the  Mississippi  at  a  small  lake.  Observed  Mr.  Granfl 
tracks  going  through  it ;  found  his  mark  of  a  cut  o| 
(agreed  on  between  us)  took  it,  and  proceeded  very  vvel 


TO  THE  SOURCES  OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI. 


(1$ 


itil  we  came  to  a  small  lake,  where  the  trail  was  entirely 
lid  ;  but  after  some  search  on  the  other  aide,  found  it ; 
len  we  passed  through  a  dismal  swamp,  on  the  other 
ie  of  which,  found  a  large  lake ;  at  which  I  was  entirely 
a  loss ;  no  trail  to  be  seen.    Struck  for  a  point  about  3 
)(^Ies,  where  we  found  a  Chipeway  lodge  of  one  man,  his 
fe,  and  five  children,  and  one  old  woman.    They  re- 
ived us  with  every  mark,  that  distinguished  their  barba- 
such  as  setting  their  dogs  on  ours,  trying  to  thrust 
?ir  hands  into  our  pockets,  &c.  but  we  convinced  them 
It  we  were  not  afraid,  and  let  them  know,  we  were 
lewockomen;  (Americans)  when  they  used  us  more 
Hlly.    After  we  had  arranged  a  camp,  as  well  as  pqs- 
He,  I  went  into  the  lodge ;  they  presented  me  with  a 
ite  of  dried  meat.     I  ordered  Miller  to  bring  about  two 
is  of  liquor,  which  made  us  all  good  friends.    The  old 
law  gave  me  more  meat,  and  offered  me  tobacco,  which 
using,  I  did  not  take.    I  gave  her  an  order  upon  my 
)oral,  for  one  knife  and  half  a  carrot  of  tobacco..,, 
iven  clothes  the  lillies  and  feeds  the  raven,  and  the  same 
lighty  Providence  protects  and  preserves  these  cre^-^ 
es.     After  I  had  gone  out  to  my  fire,  the  old  man  cam^ 
and  proposed  to  trade  beaver  skins,  for  whiskey* 
iting  with  a  refusal,  he  left  me  i  when  presently  th^ 
woman  came  out  with  a  beaver  skin,  she  also  being 
ised,  he  again  returned  to  the  charge,  with  a  quantity 
|dried  meat,  (this  or  any  other  I  should  have  been  glad 
lave  had)  when  I  gave  him  a  peremptory  refusal ;  then 
further  application  ceased.    It  really  appeared,  that 
one  quart  of  whiskey,  I  might  have  bought  all  they 
l:e  possessed  of.    Night  remarkably  cold,  was  obliged 
^it  up  nearly  the  whole  of  it.    Suffered  much  with  cold 
from  want  of  sleep. 

Sltt  January,  Friday. — Took  my  clothes  into  the 
lan*s  lodge  to  dress,  and  was  received  very  coolly,  but 


ml 


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JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE 


'  (       '   ;    ( 


:i 


t      il^: 


by  giving  him  a  dram  (unasked)  and  his  wife  a  little  salt, 
I  received  from  them  directions^  for  my  route.    Passed  the 
lake  or  morass,  and  opened  on  meadows,  (through  which 
the  Mississippi  winds  its  course)  of  nearly  15  miles  long.! 
Took  a  straight  course  through  them,  to  the  head ;  whenl 
l  found  we  had  missed  the  liver ;  made  a  turn  of  about! 
two  miles,  and  regained  it.    Passed  a  fork  which  I  s\xp.\ 
posed  to  be  Lake  Winipie,  making  the  course  N.  W.  th^ 
branch  we  took  was  on  Leech  Lake  branch,  cofurse  S.  Wj 
and  W;    Passed  a  very  large  meadow  or  prairie,  cburs 
west^,  the  Mississippi  only  fifteen  yards  wide.     Encampe 
about  one  mile  below  the  traverse  of  the  meadow.     Sa\f 
a  very  large  animal,  which,  from  its  leaps,  I  supposed  toi 
have  been  a  panther  j  but  if  so,  it  was  twice  as  large 
those  on  the  lower  Mississippi.     He  evinced  some  dispo 
sition  to  approach.     I  lay  down  (Miller  being  in  the  rear] 
in  order  to  entice  him  to  come  near,  but  he  would  no 
Thefiight  remarkably  cold.     Some  spirits,  which  I  ha| 
in  a  small  keg,  congealed  to  the  consistency  of  honey. 
Mv,i.  ist  February y  Saturday, — Left  our  camp  pretty  earl)] 
Passed  a  continued  train  of  prairie,  and  arrived  at  La 
La  Sang  Sue,  at  half  past  two  o'clock.    I  will  not  atteni[| 
to  describe  my  feelings,  on  the  accomi;  iishment  of  nil 
voyagcy  for  this  is  the  main  source  of  the  Mississipfj 
The  Lake  Winipie  branch  is  navigable,  from  thence  i 
R'ed  Gec'ar  lake,  for  the  distance  of  five  leagues,  which! 
the  extremity  of  the  navigation.     Crossed  the  lake 
miles  to  the  establishment  of  the  N.  W.  company ;  whei 
we  arrived,  about  3  o'clock  ;  found  all  the  gates  lockei 
but  upon  knocking  were  admitted,  and  received 
inarked  attention  and  hospitality  by  Mr.  Hugh  M*Gilfl 
Had  a  good  dish  of  coffee,  biscuit,  butter,  and  cheese  fj 
supper.  .  :  :;  n  :ca< 

*ld  February,    Sunday. — Remained  all  day  witl 
doors.     In  the  evening  sent  an  invitation  to  Mr.  AndJ 


^iiiii;': 


TO  THE  SOURCES  OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI. 


€7 


>n,  who  was  an  agent  of  Dickson,  and  also  for  some 
>ung  Indians,  at  his  house,  to  come  over  and  breakfast 
the  mormng.  n 

3d  February,  Monday.-^Spent  the  day  in  reading 
folney's  Egypt  j  proposing  some  queries  to  ^  Ir.  Ander- 
I,  and  preparing  my  young  man  to  return,  with  a  sup- 
of  provisions,  to  my  party.  u  <i«i  > 

4tb  February,  Tuesday. — Miller  departed  this  moinv 
Mr.  Anderson  returned  to  his  quarters.  My  legs 
id  ancles  were  so  much  swelled,  that  I  was  not  s^le  to 
»ar  my  own  clothes  and  was  obliged  to  borrow  some  from 
M'GilUs. 

5ih  February,  Wednesday.-^One  of  Mr.  M'Gillis's 

srks  had  been  sent  to  some  Indian  lodges,  and  expected 

return  in  four  days,  but  had  now  been  absent  nine. 

fr.  Grant  was  despatched,  in  order  to  find  out  what  had 

bcome  of  him. 

6th  February,  Tkursday.-^^My  men  arrived  at  the  fort 

)ut  four  o'clock.     Mr.  M'Gillis  asked,  if  i  had  any 

Ijectionsto  his  hoisting  their  flag,  in  compliment  to  ours. 

lade  none,  as  I  had  not  yet  explained  to  him  my  ideas. 

making  a  traverse  of  the  lake,  some  of  my  men  had 

^ir  ears,  some  their  noses,  and  others  their  chins  frozen. 

'7th  February,  Friday. — Remained  within  doors,  my 

lbs  being  still  very  much  swelled.     Addressed  a  letter 

Mr.  M*Gillis  on  the  subject  of  the  N.  W.  company. 

ide  in  this  quarter.* 

"^^h  February,  Saturday. — Took  the  latitude  and  found 
io  be  47°  l&  \3\     Shot  with  our  rifles. 

9th  February,   Sunday. — ^Mr.  M*Gil!is  and  myself 
Jd  a  visit  to  Mr.  Anderson,  an  agent  of  Mr.  Dickson, 
the  Lower  Mississippi,  who  resided  at  the  west  end  of 
lake.    Found  him  elegibly  situated  as  to  trade,  but 

JiJcB    .hi?-}  Sa?  appendix  to  part  I.  [No.  s-"]  pagc  141.     >  ii'O'i  Us 


m\ . 

Iff 

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JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGK 


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his  houses  bud.    I  rode  ii.  ft  cariole,  for  one  person,  cog 
wructed  in  the  following  manner :  Boards  plained  smoot 
turnel  up  in  front  about  two  feet,  coming  to  a  point  j 
•bout  2  1-2  feet  wide  behind  ^  on  which  is  hxed  a  bo^ 
covered  with  dressed  skins  painted ;  this  box  is  open 
the  top,  but  covered  in  front  about  two  thirds  of  th 
length.    Tho  horse  is  fastened  between  the  shafts.     Tb 
rider  wraps  himself  up  in  a  bulFalo  robe,  sits  flat  doA 
having  a  cushion  to  lean  his  back  against.    Thus  accoei 
tred  with  a  fur  czp.  Sec,  he  may  bid  defiance  to  the  wis 
and  weather.     Upon  our  return,  we  found  that  some  ( 
the  Indians,  had  already  returned  from  the  hunting  campsj 
also  Monsieur  Roussund,  the  gentleman  supposed  to  haj 
hditn  killed  by  the  Indians.     His  arrival  with  Mr.  Gi 
diflfused  a  general  satisfaction  through  the  fort. 

lOtb  February,  Monday. — Hoisted  the  American  l 
in  the  fort.     The  English  yacht  still  flying  at  the  top 
the  flag  staff,  I  directed  the  Indians  and  my  riflemen  j 
shoot  at  ky  who  soon  broke  the  iron  pin  to  which  it 
fastened,  and  brought  it  to  the  ground.     Reading  She) 
stone,  &c. 

1 J  tb  February^  Tuesday. — The  Sweet,  Buck,  Buii^ 
&c.  arrived,  all  chiefs  of  note,  but  the  former  in  partid 
lar,  a  venerable  old  man.  From  him  I  learnt,  thiit 
Sioux  occupied  this  ground  when  (to  use  his  own  pha 
.  *«  He  was  a  made  man,  and  began  to  hunt ;  that  theyi 
•*  cupied  it  the  year  that  the  French  missionaries  were  I 
**  led,  at  the  river  Pacagama."    The  Indians  flocked  i 

12tb  February,  Wednesday. — Bradley  and  myself  ^ 
Mr.  M'Gillis  and  two  of  his  men,  left  Leech  Lake  at| 
o*clock,  and  arrived  at  the  house  at  Red  Cedar  Lake, 
sunset ;  a  distance  of  30  miles.     My  ancles  were  vej 
much  swelled,  and  I  was  very  lame.     From  the  ent 
of  the  Mississippi  to  the  streight  is  called  six  miles,  a  soui 
west  course.    From  thence  to  the  south  end,  South : 


S'     I 


TO  THE  SX)URCES  OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI. 


ey 


It  4  utiles.  The  Yuy  at  the  efitrance,  extends  nearly  £. 
id  W.  six  miles.  About  two  and  a  b  from  the  north 
le  to  a  large  point.  This  may  becalled  the  upper  source 
the  Mississippi,  being  15  miles  above  Little  Lake  Wi- 
)ie;  and  the  extent  of  canoe  navigation  only  two 
Igues,  to  some  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  waters. 

IStb  February y  Thunday.'^Vfere  favored  with  a 

mtilul  day.     look  the  latitude,  and  found  it  to  be  47* 

i'  40'^  N.  At  this  place  it  was,  Mr.  Thompson  made 

observations  m  1798,  from  which  he  determined  that 

source  of  the  Mississipr  i  was  in  47°  38'.     I  walked 

>ut  3  miles  back  in  the  country,  at  two  thirds  water. 

le  of  our  men  marched  to  Lake  Winepie  and  returned 

one  o'clock,  for  the  stem  of  the  Sweet's  pipe,  a  mat- 

of  more  consequence  in  his  affairs,  with  the  Sioux, 

m  the  diploma  of  many  an  ambassador.    We  feasted 

white  fish,  roasted  <mi  two  iron  grates  fixed  horizoii- 

Kly  in  the  back  of  the  chimney ;  the  entrails  left  m  the 

ih. 

14/A  February,  Friday. — Left  the  house  at  9  o'clock. 

1^  becomes  me  here  to  do  justice  to  the  hospitality  of  our 

sts ;  on&Roy,  a  Canadian  and  his  wife,  a  Chipeway 

law.     They  relinquished  for  our  use,  the  only  thing  in 

house,  that  could  be  called  a  bed ;  attended  us  like 

^ants,   nor  could  either  of  them  be  persuaded,  to 

|uch  a  mouthful,  until  we  had  finished  our  repasts.    We 

ide  the  garrison  about  sundown,  having  been  drawn  at 

ist  10  miles  in  a  sleigh,  by  two  small  dogs  ;  who  were 

ided  with  200  pounds,  and  went  so  fast  as  to  render  it 

icult,  for  the  men  with  snow  shoes,  to  keep  up  with 

lem.    The  chiefs  asked  my  permission  to  dance  the  ca- 

let  dance  which  I  granted. 

1 5th  February,  Saturday. — ^The  Flat  Mouth,  chief  of 
Leech  Lake  village,  and.inany  pther  Indians  arrived. 


II: 


■V, 


11 


1; 


m  ^ 


I  :il' 


.!!'!, 


f 


JOURNAL  OP  A  VOYAGE 


Received  a  letter  from  Mr.  M'Gillis.*    Nott  J  ^{ov:\  M 
heads  of  my  speech,  and  had  it  translated  into  I'rench,  iij 
order  that  the  interpreter  should  be  perfectly  master 
his  subject. 

16tb  February,  Sunday,'~Me\d  a  council  with 
chiefs  and  warriors  at  this  place,  and  of  Red  Lake ;  bu 
it  required  much  patience,  coolness,  and  management  t(| 
obtain  the  objects  I  desired,  viz :  That  they  should  ma 
peace  with  the  Sioux ;  deliver  up  their  medals  and  flagsj 
and  that  some  of  their  chiefs  should  follow  me  to 
Louis.f  As  a  proof  of  their  agreeing  to  the  peace,  I 
rected  that  they  should  smoke  out  of  the  Wabasha'j 
pipe,  which  lay  on  the  table  *,  they  all  smoked,  from  th 
head  chief  to  the  youngest  soldier ;  they  generally  deliy^ 
ered  up  their  flags  with  a  good  grace ;  except  the  Vk 
Mouth,  who  said  he  had  left  both  at  his  camp,  three  da;{ 
march,  and  promised  to  deliver  them  up  to  Mr.  M*Gilli 
to  be  forwarded.  With  respect  to  their  returning  wii| 
me ;  the  old  Sweet  thought  it  most  proper  to  retur 
to  the  Indians  of  the  Red  lake.  Red  river,  and  Rauil 
lake  river.  The  Flat  Mouth  said,  it  was  necessary  fij 
him  to  restrain  his  young  warriors,  &c.  {  The  other  chid 
did  not  think  themselves  of  consequence  sufficient,  to  i 
fer  any  reason  for  not  following  me  to  St.  Louis,  a  jou 
ney  of  between  two  and  three  thousand  miles  throu^ 
hostile  tribes  of  Indians.  I  then  told  them,  ^'  that  I 
"  sorry  to  find,  that  the  hearts  of  the  Sauteurs  of 
*'  quarter,  were  so  weak,  that  the  other  nations  wou 
"  say — ^what,  are  there  no  soldiers  at  Leech,  Red, 
**  Rainy  Lakes,  who  had  the  hearts  to  carry  the  calumj 
*'  of  their  chief  to  their  father  ?'*  This  had  the  desirtf 
effect.     The  Bucks  and  Beaux,  two  of  the  most  celebr 

*  See  appendix  to  part  I.  [No.  6.]  page  17. 
f  See  append!  1  to  part  I.  [No.  7.]  page  19. 
^  See  appendix  to  part  !•  [No.  8]  page  aj. 


.-.^ 


TO  THE  SOURCES  OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI.         71 


young  warriors,  rose  and  offered  themselves  to  me, 

the  embassy ;  they  were  accepted ;  adopted  as  my  chil- 

en,  and  I  installed  their  father.    Their  example  animat- 

the  others,  and  it  would  have  been  no  difficult  matter 

have  taken  a  company ;  two  however  were  sufficient. 

|letcrmined  that  it  should  be  my  care,  never  to  make 

>m  regret  the  noble  confidence  placed  in  me ;  for  I 

lid  have  protected  their  lives  with  my  own.    ITie 

lux  is  brother  to  the  Flat  Mouth.     Gave  my  new  soU 

trs  a  dance,  and  a  small  dram.    They  attempted  to  get 

>re  liquor,  but  a  firm  and  peromptory  denial,  convinc- 

them,  I  was  not  to  be  trifled  with. 

17  th  February  J   Monday. — The  chief  of  the   land 

)ught  in  his  flag,  and  delivered  it  up.     Made  arrange- 

^nts  to  march  my  party  the  next  day.     Instructed  the 

reet,  how  to  send  the  parole  to  the  Indians  of  Red 

?r,  &c.    Put  my  men  through  the  manual,  and  fired 

Hr  blank  rounds,  all  of  which,  not  a  little,  astonished 

Indians.     I  was  obliged  to  give  my  two  new  soldiers, 

ph  a  blanket,  pair  of  leggins,  scissors,  and  looking  glass. 

1 8//^  February,  Tuesday. -^We  marched  for  Red  Ce- 

Lake  about  1 1  o'clock,  with  a  guide,  provided  for  me 

|Mr.  M^Gillis ;  were  all  provided  with  snow  shoes ; 

rched  oflF,  amidst  the  acclamations  and  shouts  of  the 

lians,  who  generally  had  remained,  too  see  us  take  our 

)arture.     Mr.  Anderson  promised  to  come  on  with  let- 

rs  ;  he  arrived  about  12  o'clock,  and  remained  all  night. 

concluded  to  go  down  with  me,  to  see  Mr.  Dickson. 

19th  February,  Wednesday. — Bradley,  Mr.  L'Rone, 

two  young  Indians  and  myself,  left  Mr.  M*GilIis*s  at 

o'clock ;  crossed  Leech  Lake  in  a  S.  £.  direction  24 

es.    Mr.  M*Gillis's  hospitality  deserves  to  be  particu- 

ly  noticed  j  he  presented  me  with  his  dogs  and  cariole, 

ued  in  this  country  at  two  hundred  dollars  ;  one  of  the 

;s  broke  out  of  his  harness,  and  we  were  not  able  du*. 


72 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE 


',    .   >i 


Rj  J 


;;i  ::« 


:(    ■! 


I M. 


ring  that  day  to  catch  him  again  ;  and  the  other  poor  feij 
bw,  was  obliged  to  pull  the  whole  load,  at  least  15o| 
pounds.    This  days  march  was  from  lake  to  lake. 

20tb  February,  Thursday,-^}  allowed  my  men  tol 
march  at  least  three  hours  before  me,  notwithstandin^l 
which,  as  it  was  cold  and  the  road  good,  my  sleigh 
brought  me  ahead  of  all  by  one  o'clock.  Halted  for  ail 
encampment  at  half  past  two  o'clock.  Our  courses  thi!| 
day,  were  first  S.  E.  six  miles,  then  S.  eighteen  miles;' 
almost  all  the  way  over  lakes ;  some  of  which  were  m 
miles  across.  Encamped  on  the  bank  of  a  lake,  calldl 
Sandy  Lake.     Indians  were  out  hunting.        .    . 

2\st  February,  Friday. — -Travelled  this  day,  genErallij 
south.     Passed  but  two  lakes ;  Sandy  Lake,  which  is 
an  oblong  form  N.  and  S.  4  miles,  and  one  other  ana 
one.     The  Indians,  at  the  instigation  of  Mr.  L'Rone,  ap 
plied  for  him  to  accompany  us.  I  consented  that  he  shoulij 
go  as  far  as  Red  Cedar  Lake.     I  then  wrote  a  note 
M*Gillis  upon  the  occasion.     After  Reale  had  departei 
with  it,  L*Rone  disclosed  to  me,  that  it  was  his  vish, 
desert  the  N.  W.  company  entirely,  and  accompany  me| 
To  have  countenanced  for  a  moment,  any  thing  of  tli 
kind,  I  conceived  would  have  been  inconsistent  with  eve 
principle  of  honor ;  I  therefore  obliged  him  to  return  in 
mediately.     We  then  had  no  guide,  our  Indians  not  knowj 
ing  the  road.     Our  course  through  woods  and  bad  bru 
15  miles. 

22d  February,  Saturday. — Our  course  a  little  to 
south  of  east,  through  woods  not  very  thick.    Arrived ; 
White  Fish  Lake  at  11  o'clock,  and  took  an  observatioii| 
My  party  crossed  the  lake  and  encamped  between 
lakes.    This  may  be  called  the  source  of  Pine  river, 
this  place  has  been  one  of  the  N.  W.  company's  establi^ 
ments ;  at  the  N.  E.  and  S.  side.  It  was  a  square  stockade] 
of  about  50  feet ;  but  at  this  time  nearly  all  consumed  I 
fire.     Also  one  standing  over  the  point  on  the  east  side] 


TO  THE  SOURCES  OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI.         73 


23d  February,  Sunday. — iJly  two  Indians,  Boley  and 
lyself,  with  my  sleigh  and  dogs  left  the  party,  under  an 
lea,  that  we  should  make  Red  Cedar  Lake.  We  march- 
hard  all  day,  without  arriving  at  the  Mississippi.  Our 
)urse  was  nearly  due  east,  until  near  night,  ;when  We 
langed  more  south.  Took  ho  provision  nor  bedding. 
ly  Indians  killed  fifteen  partridges,  some  nearly  black, 
*th  a  red  mark  over  their  eyes,  called  the  Savanna  par- 
idge.  Were  overtaken  about  noon  by  two  of  Mr.  An- 
srson's  mefn,  named  Brurie  and  ,  Mr.  Anderson 

fmself  not  being  able  to  come.     Distance  30  miles.'    '*^^" 
24/^  February,  Monday.-— We  started  early,  and  af- 
'  passing  over  one  of  the  worst  roads  in  the  world  j  fbvttid 
irselves  on  a  lake,  about  3  o*clock ;  took  its  outlet  and 
ick  the  Mississippi,  about  one  mile  below  the  canoes 
?ntioneci  on  the  first  January,  by  which  I  kii6w  where 
were.     Ascended  the  Mississippi  about  four  miles, 
kd  encamped  on  the  west  side.     Our  general  course  this 
ly,  was  nearly  south,  when  it  should  have  been  S.  E; 
ly  young  warriors  were  still  in  good  heart ;  singing  and 
jewing  every  wish  to  keep  me  so.     The  pressure  of  my 
:ket  strings  brought  the  blood  through  my  socks  and 
kkinsoiis,  from  which  the  pain  I  marched  in  maybe 
bgined.  .v^  .^ui 

^SthTebruary,  Tuesday- — ^We  marched  and  ai-rived 
[the  Cedar  Lake  before  noon ;  found  Mr.  Grant  and  De 
feche  (chief  of  Saijdy  Lake)  at  the  house.     This  gave 
much  pleasure,  for  I  conceive  Mr.  Grant  to  be  a  gen- 
\an  of  as  much  candor,  as  any  with  whom  I  had  made 
acquaintance  in  this  quarter,  and  the  chief  (De  Breche) 
reputed  to  be  a  man  of  better  information,  than  any  of 
Sauteurs. 
2Qth  February,  Wednesday. — Sent  one  of  Mr.  Grant's 
fcn  down,  with  a  bag  of  rice,  to  meet  my  people,  who 
jnd  them  encamped  on  the  Mississippi.    Wrote  a  letcer 


.1 . 


i1 


' 


■If4 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE 


!iii 


,i;,r 


to  Mr;  Dickson  on  the  subject  of  the  FoIs^Avoins,*  als 
some  orders  to  my  sergeant.     This  evening  had  a  Ion 
conversation  with  De  Breche,  he  informed  me  that 
string  of  Wampum,  had  been  sent  among  the  Chipewaysj 
he  thoAight  by  the  British  commanding  officer  at  St. 
seph ;  he  appeared  to  be  a  very  intelligent  man. 

27/<&  February,    Thursday, — ^The  chief   called 
White  Fisher  and  seven  Indians  arrived  at  the  house, 
men  also  arrived  about  12  o'clock. 

28/i&  February,  Friday. — ^We  left  Red  Cedar  LakI 
about  1 1  o'clock,  and  went  to  where  the  canoes  wen 
mentioned  in  my  journal  of  the  1st  January.     My  yoiisl 
Indians  remained  behind,  under  the  pretence  of  wait 
for  the  chief  De  Breche,  who  returned  to  Sandy  Lake  fi| 
his  flag  and  medals,  and  was  to  render  himself  at 
post  with  Mr.  Grant,  about  the  15th  of  the  foUowiij 
month. 

\st  March,  Saturday, — ^Departed  early.     Passed 
encampment  of  the  31st  December,  at  9  o'clock  A. 
Passed  Pine  river  at  12  o'clock.    Passed  our  encampmej 
of  the  30th  December  at  3  o'clock.     Passed  our  encan 
roent  of  the  29th  November,  just  before  we  came  to( 
present,  which  we  made  on  the  point  of  the  Pine  Ridjj 
below.     Distance  43  miles. 

2d  March,  Sunday. — ^Passed  our  encampment  of  I 
28th  December,  at  10  o'clock  A.  M.  that  of  the  27th 
cember  at  1  o'clock  P.  M.  and  encamped  at  that  of  the  2(ij 
December.    Found  wood  nearly  sufficient  for  our 
This  morning  dispatched  Bradley,  to  the  last  place  we  I 
buried  a  barrel  of  flour,  to  thaw  the  ground  and  hu 
This  day  a  party  of  Indians,   struck  tKe  river  beh 
Bradley  and  before  us,  but  left  it  10  miles  above 
Raven  river. 


M'    'Hi 


*  See  appendix  to  part  1,  [No.  9.]  page  %3' 


Ti 


.'»t 


TO  THE  SOURCES  OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI.         75 


Sd  March,  Monday.-^'Marched  early;  paraed  our 

iristmas  encampment,  at  sunrise.    I  was  ahead  of  my 

r,  in  my  cariole.     Soon  afterwards  I  observed  a  smdce 

the  W.  shore.     I  hallood,  and  some  Indians  appeared 

)n  the  bank.     I  waited  until  my  interpreter  eame  up, 

then  went  to  the  camp.     They  proved  to  be  a  party  of 

ipeways,  who  had  left  the  encampment,  the  same  day 

left  it.    They  presented  me  witli  some  roast  meat, 

lich  I  gave  my  sleigh  dogs.     They  then  left  their  camp 

accompanied  us  down  the  river.     We  passed  our  en- 

ipment  of  the  24th  December,  at  9  o'clock,  of  the  23d 

^10  o'clock,  and  of  the  22d  at  eleven  o'clock ;  here  the 

lians  crossed  on  to  the  W.  shore ;  arrived  at  the  en- 

ipment  of  the  21st  December,  at  12  o'clock.     Where 

had  a  barrel  of  flour.  I  here  found  corpoi*al  Meek  and 

)ther  man,  from  the  post,  from  whom  I  heard,  that  the 

m  were  all  well ;  they  confirmed  the  account  of  a  Sioux 

dug  fired  on  a  sentinel ;  and  added,  that  the  sentinel 

first  made  him  drunk,  and  then  turned  him  out  of 

tent,  upon  which  he  fired  on  the  sentinel  and  ran  off, 

It  promised  to  deliver  himself  up  in  the  spring.     The 

)oral  informed  me,  that  the  sergeant  had  used  all  the 

rant  hams  and  saddles  of  venison,  which  1  had  r^e- 

^ved  to  present  to  the  commander  in  chief  and  other 

»nds  ;  that  he  had  made  away  with  all  the  whiskey,  in- 

iding  a  keg  I  had  for  my  own  use,  having  pul  'icly  sold 

^o  the  men,  and  a  barrel  of  pork,  that  he  had  broken 

m  ny  trunk  and  sold  some  things  out  of  it,  traded  with 

Indians,  gave  them  liquor,  &c.  and  this  too  contrary 

I  my  most  pointed  and  particular  directions.     Thus,  after 

kad  used,  it  going  up  the  river  with  my  party,  the 

ictest  economy,  living  upon  two  pounds  of  frozen  ve- 

)n  a  day  j  in  order  that  we  Hiight  have  provision  to  car- 

I  us  down  in  the  spring  ;  this  fellow  was  squandering 

ly  the  flour,  pork,  and  liquor,  during;  the  winter,  and 


(l: 


.    { 


!■     ^ 


m' 


ra 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE 


!i!,  !  ; 


while  we  were  starving  with  hunger  and  cold*  I  haw  davedl 
all  our  corH)  bacon,  and  the  me?^t  of  six  deer,  and  left  jN 
at  Sandy  Lake,  with  some  tents,  my  mess  boxes,  s^ltJ 
lobacco,  &c.  all  of  which  we  were  obliged  to  sacrifice  byl 
not  retuiiiing  the  same  route  we  went,  and  we  consoled! 
ourselves,  at  this  loss,  by  the  flattering  idea,  that  wej 
should  find  at  our  little  post,  a  handsome  stock  preserved] 
how  mortifying  the  disaf^KMntment.  We  raised  our  bar] 
rel  of  ilou:*,  and  came  down  to  the  mouth  of  a  Uttle  riverj 
on  the  east,  which  we  passed  on  the  21st  December] 
The  ice  covered  with  water. 

4fth  March,  Tuesday. — Proceeded  early.   Passed  o« 
encampment  cf  the  20th  December  at  sunrise.     Arrived" 
at  that  of  the  19th  at  9  o'clock  j  here  we  had  buried  tw, 
barrels.     Made  a  large  fire  to  thaw  the  ground.     Wen  i 
on  the  prairie  and  found  Sparks,  one  of  my  hunters,  ant 
brought  him  to  the  river  at  the  Pine  Camp.     Passed  oi^ 
opposite  to  our  encampment,  of  the  13th  of  Decembe:i 
and  encamped  where  Sparks  and  some  men  had  an  olij 
hunting  camp,  and  where  the  Fresaie  (a  Chipeway  chief 
surrounded  them. 

5th  March,  Wednesday. — Passed  all  the  encampment] 
between  Pine  creek  and  the  post,  at  which  we  arrive 
abour  10  o'clock.  I  sent  a  man  on  ahead,  to  prevent  th 
salute  1  had  before  ordered  by  letter  ;  this  I  did  from  th 
idea  that  the  Sioux  chiefs  would  accompany  me.  Founi 
all  well.  Confined  my  sergeant.  About  one  o'clock  MrJ 
Dickson  arrived,  with  the  KiU.cur  Rouge,  his  son,  and  twi 
other  Sioux  men,  with  two  women ;  who  had  come  up  ta 
be  introduced  to  the  Sauteurs,  they  expected  to  find  witlj 
me.     Received  a  letter  from  Keinviile.         « 

6th  March  Thursday. — Thomas,  the  Fols  Avoin'j 
first  ctief,  arrived  with  ten  others  of  his  nation.  I  madj 
a  serious  and  authoritative  expostulative  representadoi 
to  him  of  my  opiiugii  gf  the  Shawonoe's  (another  chiej 


TO  THE  SOURCES  OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI.  fr 


his  nation  who  had  behaved  ill)  conduct.  Had  also  a 
iference  with  the  Killeur  Rouge  and  his  people.  At 
iht  wrote  to  Messrs.  Grant,  M'Gillis,  and  Anderson. 

'1th  Marchi  Friday. — Held  conversations  with  the 

lans.     Thomas,  the  Fols  Avoin  chief  assured  me,  that 

Iwould  interest  himself,  in  obliging  the  Puants  to  de- 

^r  up  the  men  who  had  recently  committed  murders, 

(the  Ouiscousing  and  Rock  rivers ;  and  if  necessary'  he 

lid  make  it  a  national  quarrel,  on  the  side  of  the  Ame- 

is.     This  Thomas  is  a  fine  fellow,  of  a  very  mascu- 

figure,  noble  and  animated  delivery,  and  appears  to 

very  much  attached  to  the  Americans.     The  Sioujc 

i>rmed  me,  that  they  would  wait  until  I  had  determined 

affairs  in  this  country,  and  then  bear  my  words  to  the 

|er  St.  Peters. 

Sth  March,  Saturday. — ^The  Fols  Avoin  chief  pre- 

^ted  me  with  his  pipe  to  give  to  the  Sauteurs  on  their 

ival,  with  assurances  of  their  safety  on  their  voyage, 

his  wish  for  them  to  descend  the  river.     The  Fils  de 

Hleur  Rouge  also  presented  me  with  his  pipe,  to  present 

[the  Sauteur  Indians  on  their  arrival,  to  make  them 

)ke,  and  assure  them  of  his  friendly  disposition,  and 

It  he  would  wait  to  see  them  at  Mr.  Dicksons.     Thomas 

jde  a  formal  complaint  against  a  Frenchman,  (by  name 

?ignor)  who  resided  in  Green  bay,  who,  he  said,  abused 

Indians,  beat  them,  &c.  without  provocation.     I  pro- 

jed  to  write  to  the  commanding  officer,  or  Indian  agent 

lichilimackinac,  upon  the  occasion.     The  Indians  with 

k  Dickson,  all  took  their  departure.     Hitched  F'y  dogs 

the  sleigh,  who  drew  one  of  the  Indian  women  down  the 

to  the  no  iiitle  amusement  of  the  others.     Went  some 

tance  down  the  river  in  order  to  cut  a  mast.     Cut  a 

[e  mast  35  feet  long^  for  my  big  boat  at  the  pHiirie. 

is  day  my  little  boy  broke  the  cock  of  my  gun  ;  few 

ling  misfortunes  could  have  happened,  which  I  should 


il 


f 


7» 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE 


H.<  ■  il 


I       II 


li^'^li 


m 


have  regretted  more,  as  the  \nld  fowl  just  began  to  retuq| 
on  the  approach  of  spring.  ft 

9th  March,  Sunday. — ^I  examined  into  the  conduc 
of  my  sergeant,  and  found  that  he  was  guilty  and  punishj 
ed  him  by  reduction,  &c.     Visited  the  Fols  Avoin  lodge 
and  received  a  present  of  some  tallow.     One  of  my  meij 
arrived  from  the  hunting  camp  with  two  deer. 

lOih  March,  Monday. — Was  visited  by  the  Fol^ 
Avoin  chief  and  several  others  of  his  nation.  This  chiei 
was  an  extraordinary  hunter ;  to  instance  his  power,  hj 
killed  forty  elk  and  a  bear  in  one  day  ;  chasing  the  forj 
mer  from  dawn  to  eve.  We  were  all  busied  in  preparii^ 
oars,  guns,  mast,  &c.  by  the  time  the  ice  broke  up,  whid 
was  opening  fast. 

llth  March,  Tuesday. — ^In  a  long  conversation  wit( 
a  Reynard,  he  professed  not  to  believe  in  an  hereafterl 
but  he  believed  that  the  world  would  all  be  drowned 
water,  at  some  future  period ;  he  asked  how  it  was  to 
re-peopled.  In  justice  to  his  nation,  however,  I  musti 
serve,  that  his  opinion  was  singular. 

12th  March,  Wednesday. — Made  preparations;  h 
fine  chase  with  deer  on  the  ice  ;  killed  one.     Since  oti 
return  I  received^ght  deer  from  our  camp. 

I3th  March,  Thursday. — Received  two  deer  from  i 
hunting  camp.  Went  out  w'.th  my  gun  on  the  opposiJ 
side  of  the  river.  Ascended  the  mountain  which  bordeij 
the  prairi  On  the  point  of  it  I  foui'd  a  stone,  on  whicj 
the  Indians  had  sharpen  d  their  knives,  and  a  war  clui 
half  finished.  From  this  spot  you  may  extend  the  eji 
over  vast  prairies  without,  scarcely  any,  interruption,  bi 
clumps  of  trees  which  at  a  distance  appealed  like  moimj 
tains  ;  from  two  or  three  of  which  the  smoke  risiiig  in  tli| 
air,  denoted  the  habitation  of  the  wandering  savage, 
too  often  marked  them  out  as  victims  to  their  enemiesj 
from   whase  cruelty,  I  have  had  the  pleasure  in 


I  111;    < 


TO  THE  SOURCES  OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI.        79 


of  the  winter,  and  through  a  wildemsss  of  im- 

ise  extent  to   relieve  them,  as  peace  has  reigned 

rough  my  mediation,  from  the  prairie  Des  Cheins  to 

lower  Red  river.    If  a  subalt^n  Arith  but  20  men,  at 

great  a  distance  from  the  seat  of  his  government  could 

BCt  so  important  a  change  in  the  minds  of  those  savages, 

lat  might  not  a  great  and  independent  power  effect,  if 

tead  of  blowing  up  the  flames  of  discord,  they  exerted 

fir  influence  in  the  sacred  cause  of  peace  ?     When  I 

turned  to  the  fort,  I  found  the  Fols  Avoin  chief  who 

fended  to  remain  all  night.     He  told  me  that  near  the 

iclusion  of  the  revolutionary  war,  his  nation  began  to 

l>k  upon  him  as  a  warrior  ;  that  they  received  a  parole 

)m  Michilimackinac,  on  wliich  he  was  dispatched  with 

warriors  ;  that  on  his  arrival  he  was  requested  to  lead 

sm  against  the  American^.     To  which  he  replied,  "  We 

Ihave  considered  you  and  the  Americans  as  one  people. 

[You  are  now  at  war ;  how  are  we  to  decide  who  has 

[justice  on  their  side  ?     Besides  you  white  people  are 

like  the  leaves  on  the  trees  for  numbers.     Should  I 

'rch  with  my  40  warriors  to  the  field  of  battle,  they 

dth  their  chief,  would  be  unnoticed  in  the  multitude  ; 

id  would  be  swallowed  up  as  tf    big  waters  embo^ 

[som  the  small  rivulets  which  discharge  themselves  into 

lit.     No,  I  will  return  to  my  nation,  where  my  coun- 

[trymen  may  be  of  service  against  our  red  enemies,  and 

leir  actions  renowned  in  the  dance  of  ctur  nation." 

14//j  March,  Friday, — Took  the  latitude  by  an  arti- 

[ial  horizon,  and  measured  the  river.     Received  one 

;r  and  a  half  from  my  hunting  camp,     Ice  thinner. 

1 5tb  March,  Saturday. — ^I'his  was  the  day  '^xed  upon 

Mr.  Grant  and  the  Chipeway  warriors,  for  thv-ir  arrival 

kiy  fort ;  and  I  was  all  day  anxiouslv  expecting  them  ; 

I  knew  that  should  they  not  accompany  me  down,  the 

ice  partially  etiected  between  them  and  the  Sioux,  would 


^\ 


J 


1' 


^1 

1  i 


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jl 


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JOURNAL  or  A  VOYAGE 


i<  n 


■i;i!i 


iiiii 


irm 


not  be  on  a  permanent  footing ;  and  upon  this  I  take  the 
to  be  neither  sc  brave  nor  generous,  as  the  Sioux,  vfh 
in  all  their  transactions,  appear  to  be  candid  and  bnvd 
whereas  the  Chipcways  are  suspicious,  consequently  tn\ 
cherous,  and  of  course  cowards, 

16tb  March,  Sunday, — Received  three  deer  from  oij 
hunting  camp.    Examined  trees  for  canoes. 

11th  March,  Monday. — ^Left  the  fort  with  my  intej 
preter  and  Roy,  in  order  to  visit  Thomas,  the  Fols  Ave 
chief,  who  was  encamped,  with  six  lodges  of  his  natia 
about  '20  miles  below  us,  on  a  little  river  which  empti^ 
into  the  Mississippi  on  the  W.  side,  a  little  above  Clean 
ver.  On  our  way  down,  killed  one  goose,  wounded  anothe 
and  a  deer  that  the  dogs  had  driven  into  an  air  hole  ;  hu 
our  game  on  the  trees.  Arrived  at  the  creek,  took  o\ 
on  it ;  ascended  three  or  four  miles  on  one  bank, 
descended  on  the  other.     Killed  another  goose.     Strui 

the  Mississippi  below .     Encamped  at  our  encamjj 

ment  of  the of  October,    when  we  ascended 

river.  Ate  our  goose  for  supper.  It  snowed  all  dal 
and  at  night  a  very  severe  storm  arose.  It  may  be  iniJ 
gined  that  we  spent  a  very  disagreeable  night  vvithoil 
shelter,  and  but  one  blanket  each. 

18t/j  March,  Tuesday. — We  marched,  determined^ 
find  the  lodges.  Met  an  Indian,  whose  track  we  pursue 
through  almost  impenetrable  woods,  for  about  two  andl 
half  miles,  to  the  camps  ;  here  there  was  one  of  the  finej 
sugar  camps  I  almost  ever  saw,  the  whole  of  the  timb 
bi-'ing  sugar  tree.  We  were  conducted  to  the  chiefl 
lodge,  who  received  us  in  the  patriarchal  style, 
pulled  ofi'  my  leggins  and  mockinsons,  put  me  in 
best  place  in  his  lodge,  and  offered  me  dry  cloaths. 
then  presented  us  with  syrup  of  the  maple  to  drink,  thej 
asked  whether  I  prefered  eating  beaver,  swan,  elk  or  de 
upon  my  giving  the  preference  to  the  first,  a  large  kettl 


TO  THE  SOURCES  OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI. 


81 


ps  filled  by  his  wife,  of  which  soup  was  made ;  this 
Ing  thickened  with  flour,  we  had  what  I  then  thought  a 
jlicious  repast.  After  we  had  refreshed  oursellves,  he 
ted  whether  we  would  visit  his  people,  at  the  other 
iges,  which  we  did ;  and  in  each  were  presented  with 
lething  to  eat ;  by  some  with  a  bowl  of  sugar  j  others 
Reaver's  tail,  &c.  After  making  this  tour,  we  re- 
lied to  the  chief's  lodge,  and  found  a  birth  provided 
each  of  us,  of  good  soft  bear  skins  nicely  spread,  and 
[mine  there  was  a  large  feather  pillow.  I  must  not  here 
ft  to  mentii^ii  an  anecdote,  which  serves  to  characterize, 
l-e  particularly,  their  manners.  This  in  the  eyes  of  the 
icted  moralist,  would  deform  my  hospitable  host  into, 
^onster  of  libertinism ;  but  by  a  liberal  mind  would  be 
sidered,  as  arising  from  the  hearty  generosity  of  the  wild 
ige.  In  the  course  of  the  day  observing  a  ring  on  one 
ly  fingers,  he  enquired  if  it  was  gold ;  he  was  told  it 
the  gift  of  one,  with  whom  I  should  be  happy  to  be 
lat  time  ;  he  seemed  to  think  seriously,  and  at  night 
my  interpreter,  "  That  perhaps  his  father"  (as  they 
died  me)  "  felt  much  grieved  for  the  want  of  a  wo- 
if  so,  he  could  furnish  him  with  one."  He  was 
^ered,  that  with  us  each  man  had  but  one  wife,  and 
1  considered  it  strictly  my  duty,  to  remain  faithful  to 
This  he  thought  strange,  (he  himself  having  three) 
replied  that  "  He  knew  some  Americans  at  his  nation, 
lo  had  half  a  dozen  wives  during  the  winter."  The 
^preter  observed  that,  they  were  men  without  charac- 
but  that  all  our  great  men,  had  each  but  one  wife. 
i  chief  acquiesced,  but  said  he  liked  better  to  have  ais 
as  he  pleased.  This  conversation  passing  without 
ippeal  to  mC;  a:  the  interpreter  knew  my  m.ind  on 
occasions  and  answerec*  immediately,  it  did  not  ap- 
as  an  immediate  refusal  of  the  woman.  Continued 
Hng  very  hard  all  day.     Slept  very  warm. 


H 


83 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE 


■  ■  ..'■a.iim' 


<  I ' 


iillil 


■|  I 


19//?  March,  Wednesday. — ^This  niorning  purchasi^ 
two  bask    s  of  sugar,  for  the  amount  of  which  I  g? 
orders  on  Mr.  Dickson.     After  feastinpr  upon  a  awai 
took  our  leave  for  camp.;  still  snowing.     I  nxding  my  I 
companions  unable  to  keep  up,  1  pushed  on  and  arrival 
at  the  river.     When  1  arrived  at  the  place,  I  had  hiu 
up  my  first  goose,  I  found  that  the  ravens  and  eagles 
not  left  a  feather,   and,  feasting  upon  the  deer,  wasj 
band  sufficient  to  have  carried  it  away,  who  had  picked ij 
bones  nearly  clean ;  what  remained  I  gave  my  dogs.  Stcj 
ped  at  the  place  where  I  expected  to  find  the  last  goos* 
but  could  see  nothing  of  it ;  at  length  I  found  it  hid  undi 
the  grass  and  snow,  where  some  animal  had  corueealcdf 
after  eating  off  its  head  and  heck.     I  carried  it  to  the  fcj, 
where  I  arrived  about  an  hour  before  sundown.   Dispai| 
ed,  immediately,  two  men  with  rackets,  to  meet  the] 
terpreter  and  Le  Roy.     They  arrived  about  two  hoj 
afi  :r  dark.     Some  men  also  arrived  at  the  hunting  a 
mih  three  deer.    The  snow  ceased  falling  about  one  ii(| 
txit^yc  Jark ;  it  was  nearly  two  feet  deep  on  a  level, 
dc;.?pest  that  had  fiallen  so  low  down  this  winter. 

20tfj  March,  Thursday. — ^Despatched  nine  men  toj 
hunting  camp,  from  whence  received  two  deer.  Closj 
almost  all  day ;  but  the  water  rose  fast  over  the  ice. 

21s/  March,  Friday, — Received  a  visit  from  the  I 
Avoin  chief,  called  the  Shawonoe,  and  six  young 
I  informed  him  without  reserve,  the  news  I  heard  of  j 
at  Red  Cedar  Lake,  and  the  letter  I  wrote  to  Mr. 
son.    He  denied  it  in  toto,  and  on  the  contrary  said, 
he  presented  his  flag  and  two  medals  to  the  Chipev 
as  an  inducement  for  them  to  descend  in  the  spring;  i 
gave  them  all  the  encouragement  in  his  power.    His  j 
was  much  astonished  at  the  language  I  held  with  hira.1 
from  his  firm  protestations,  we  finally  parted  friends.  U 
formed  me  that  a  camp  of  Sauteurs  were  on  the  river,  wail 


I"    .ii.T 


TO  THE  SOURCES  OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI. 


83 


the  cliiefe  to  come  down ;  from  which  it  appeared  they 

re  still  expected.     At  night  (after  the  others  had  gone) 

)mas  arrived  and  staid  all  night.     We  agreed    pon  a 

iting  party,  also  promised  to  pay  the  old  Shawonoe  a 

He  informed  me,  that  he  set  out  the  other  day  to 

)w  me,  but  finding  the  storm  so  very  bad,  returned 

sis  wigwam.    The  thermometer  lower  than  it  has  been 

ly  time  since  I  commenced  my  voyage. 

22(/  March,  Saturday. — ^Ten  of  my  men  r>-       d  from 

hunting  camp,  with  four  deer  and  a  nai 

irted,  sent  a  man  with  him  to  his  camps  ch 

jnt  me  two  beavers. 

23d  March,  Sunday, — Agreeably  to  promise,  after 
fast  I  departed  with  Miller  and  my  interpreter  to  pay 
Isit  to  the  old  chief  Shawonoe.     We  arrived  at  his 
ip  in  about  two  hours.     On  our  way  we  met  the  Fols 
>in,  called  the  Chein  Blanche    who  had  visited  mv 
L  previously  to  my  starting  up  the  river,  at  whos^ 
fee  we  stopped  when   p  ssing.      We  were  received 
fold  Shawonoe  at  his  lodge,  with  the  usual  Indian 
)itality,  but  very  different  from  the  polite  reception 
us  by  Thomas.     Charlevoix  and  others  have  all 
lie  testimony  to  the  beaifty  of  this  nation.     From  my 
observation,  I  had  sufficient  reason  to  confirm  their 
[rmation  as  respected  the  males ;  for  they  were  all 
Ight  and  well  made,  about  the  middle  size ;  their  com- 
mons generally  fair  for  savages,  their  teeth  good,  their 
large  and  rather  languishing  ;  they  have  a  mild  but 
^pendent  expression  of  countenance,  that  charms  at 
sight  J  in  short,  they  would  be  considered  any  where, 
landsome  men.     But  their  account  of  the  women,  1 
iY  before  believed  to  be  correct.     In  this  lodge  there 
five  very  handsome  women  when  we  arrived  ;  and 
It  sun.down^  a  married  pair  arrived,  whom  my  interpre- 
jbserved,  were  the  handsomest  couple  he  knew  -,  and 


^ 

^  ^ 

^>^ 

'    ^ 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


1.1 


11.25 


I4i|21    121 

1^    12.0 


Hi 


I 
■ 


U   1 1.6 


0% 


^ 


^}. 


^i^* 


Photographic 

SdeRces 

Corporation 


23  WIST  MAIN  STRIET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  USSO 

(716)  872-4503 


V 


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'ill 


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Uil'l 

I" 


llii 


84 


IpURNAL  OFik  VOYAGE* 


u(i  truth ihey^  were;  the  man beiog  about  S,§ek'khk 
auui  possessing  in  an  eminent  manner  all  th?,^iitMi(< 
countenance  whic^  distinguish  tiisna^on*    Hitif^mi 
vas  ift  years  old ;  ,ha>^g  4^l>rpwn  eyes»  jdKil^yi 
an  elegantly  proportioned  i|Qi^l(>  and  her  %ure  <  by. . 
means  inclining  to  corpuj^Dey,.  ai9  they  generally  are 
nuirriage.    He  appeared  tOjjUlach  hin^lf  partictnlMy  < 
me,  and  informed  me  hj^  iwife  was  the  dai^hleiif  <  c^  < 
.^erica%  who  passing  through  the  nation,  a))Out 
three  years  before»  reipained  a  week  or  two,  possessed  oft 
mother,  and  that  she  ^^  ^  finiitof  this  amonf  h  ^^' 
name  they  were  unacquainted  with.    I  bad  Ivpught  isiii 
cuits  with  me,  which  I  presented  her  on  tl\e  scorl  (^herl 
ing  my  country  woman,  which  raised  ;s>  loudkvfgH,  and 
was  called  the  Bostonjan  d\mf^  thei  rdst  oJF:  liiy.stay. 
found  ti^em  generally  extremely  hard  to  deal  wi^ ; 
provision  being  only  a  little  venison,  I  wished  tSoprocu 
some  bear's  oil,  for  a  few  gallons  of  which  I  wis  -oblig 
to  pay  a  dollar  per  gallon,  and  then  they  wanted  to 
tallow  with  the  oil.    They  also  demanded  ten  doll^iis ; 
a  bear, skin  (the  most  beautiful  I  ever  sa^w^  which  I  Iwa 
to  mount  a  saddle,)    Indeed  I  was  informed  that, trade 
in  this  country,  sometimes  give  as  much  as  sttxte^  doll; 
for  befir  skins ;  for  they  are  eminently  superioF);rt0 
thing  of  the  kind,  on  theJower  Mississippi ;  and  i  sell  i| 
Europe  for  double  the  price.    In  the  evening  we  wewi 
tertai^ed  with  the  calumet  and  dog  dance ;  also  the  r 
of  the   '.I    .  Some  of  the  men  s^uckthe  post  and  told^B 
of  theirjvar  ei^ploits,  but  as  they  spoke  ki  Menm^emfi 
interpreter  ^ould  nof  explain  it.    Altei;  the  daikce,  we 
the  feast  pf  the  dead^  (as  it  is  called)  at  which  ;eath 
or  three  were  served  with  ^a.pan  or  vessel  rfull  trfinc 
and  when  #  were  reudy  there  was  a  prayier,  ajft^r  vik 
the  eatmg  commenced.    When  it  wiir  expected  >»«:.wo 
eat  up  our  portion  entirely,  being  carefulnoi  to  dl^opa  boo 


i  I 


*•' 


•rO  THE  SOUROlil  bF  THE  MISSISSIPPI.         85 

f^iigtthtfaU  lip  and'' put  them  in' ^dw>  dish,  we  -^ere 
maiMMiSk  soap»  .  After  the  fating  was  finished  the 
again  gave  an  exhortation,  whii^iinidhed!  the  cere- 
pri^m  told  ilwyth^.ga^erupi all  the  fragments, 
(throw  them  in  the  iK^er^  iett  the:d©gs>  should  get' 
.Burning  theih  is  considered  as isaaii€igeou$.'^lll» 
lod^jrwerecdllected  atone  time  41  persons  great  and 
,.<i7.jofwhont)V»tie<»pable  of  bearing  arms)  be*^- 
dpgsf  without  number*  ^^ 

Mflft  Marcbi  Af»«Aiy.-^Roseearly  and  with  my  dogi 
ariiv^  at  the  fort  before  10  0*dbck.     In  the  after-' 
lyir.  Giant  arrived  with  DeBreche  and  some  of  his' 
men.    Salutoi  him  with  14  rounds ;  found  my  two 
warriorsi  of  >Leech  Lake  were  brave  enough  to  re- 
tQvtheir  homes.   '  Mr;  Grant  and  myself  sat  up  late 

.  ^th  Marchy  Tuesday>^ent  an  Indian  to  Thomas's 
[ge^i  and  a  letter  to  Mr^iDickson.  It  snowed  and  storm- 
all  day.     Gave  the  chief  the  news. 
2Btb  Marchy  Wedtteidax.^'-'ThonaB,  the  Fols  Avoiii 
{arrived  with  seven  of  his  men,  and  the  old  Shawo* 
and  six  of  his  party.     I  had  them  all  to  feed  s»  well  as 
ownmen./  At  night  I  gave  them  leave  to  dance  in  the 
isbn j :  "which  thej^  >  did  imiil  10  o'clock ;  but  once  or 
ce,t61dinie,^lat:«if  I  was  tired  of  them,  the  dance  should 
The  old  Shawonoe  and  the  WhiteDog  of  the 
AVoins  told:  their  exploits,  wfaidi  we  could  not  un^ 
itand;  biitl^ffi;  Breche  arose  and  ^takl,  *'  I  ohce  killed 
Sioux  and  cut  off*  his  head  with  such  a  spear  as  I  now 
to  this  Winebago.'?    At  the  same  time  present- 
one  j^  a  Winebago  present,  withi  whbm  the  Chipis^ 
were  at  n^ar ;  this  Was  considered  by  theibrmer  as  %: 
t  honor.    My  hunters  went  out  (Hit  killed  viothhig.  >i 
^tb  Manhy  7kursda^--~ln  the  mommg  thd  Chipe- 
iy  chief  made  a  speech  and  presented  his  peace  pipe  to 


> 


;■;! 


im,  il 


96 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAOE 


«c 


cc 


cc 


<( 


I'i' 


me  to  bear  to  the 'Sioux,  on  which  were  seven  strmgsi 
wampum,  as  authority  from  seven  bands  of  the 
ways,  either  to  conclude  peace  or  to  make  war.    Ai 
had  chosen  the  former,  he  sett  ids  .]»pe  to  the  Sioux 
requestec^  me  to  infcxrm  them,  that  he  and  his  people  #ov 
encamp  at  the  mouth  of  the  Riviere  De  Corbeau  the 
suing  summer,  where  he  would  see  the  United  States 
flying.    As  a  proof  of  his  pacific  di^sition,  the  fo 
Avoin  chief  then  spoke  and  said,  *f  His  nation 
dered  small  by  its  enemies,  only  a  remnant  was  le 
but  that  they  could  boast  of  not  being  slaves  ;  for 
always  in  preference  to  their  women  and  children' 
taken,   they  themselves  killed  them.    But  that 
'<  father  (as  they  called  me)  had  travelled  far,  and 
'*  taken  much  pains  to  prevent  the  Sioux  and  Chipewa]! 
**  from  killing  one  another;  that  he  thought  none  coulj 
**  be  so  ungenerous  as  to  neglect  listening  to  the  w^si 
**  their  father :  that  he  would  report  to  the  Sioux  the 
**  cific  disposition  of  the  Sauteurs^  and  hoped  the 
**  would  be  firm  and  lasting."    I  then  in  a  few  words 
formed  De  Breche,  "  that  I  would  report  to  the  Sioux  i 
'^  he  had  said,  and  that  I  should  ever  feel  pleased 
'*  grateful  that  the  two  nations  had  laid  aside  die  tci; 
*^  hawk  at  my  request.    That  I  than^      tlie  Fols  Avoil 
*<  chief  for  his  good  wishes  and  parole    .^h  he  had  give 
''  the  Sauteurs."    After  all  this,  each  chief  was  fu 
ed  with  a  kettle  of  liquor,  to  drink  each  others  healtiij 
and  De  Breche's  flag  (which  I  had  presented  him) 
displayed  in  the  fort.    The  Fols  Avoins  then  departed, 
which  I  was  by  no  means  displeased,  for  they  had 
consumed  all  the  dry  meat,  I  had  laid  aside  fbr^py  vo 
age,  and  I  was  apprehensive  that  my  hunters  would 
be  able  lo  lay  up  another  supply,    imjiiv 

28th  Marc^^  Friday* — ^Late  in  the  afternoon 
Gi^ant  and  the  Sauteurs  took  thdr  departure,  calct 


TO  THE  SOURCES  OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI. 


the  Sioux  had  left  the  country.    Took  with  me  one 
my  soldiers  and  accompanied  them  to  the  Fols  Avoins 
(called  the  Shawonese)  where  we  (ten)  stayed  all 
It.    The  Fob  Avoins  tfid  Sauteurs  h^  a  dance^  at 
ich  I  left  them  and  went  to  sleep.    Feasted  on  elk,  su- 
and  syrup.    Previously  to  the  Indians  departing  from 
post,  I  demanded  the  Chief's  medal  and  flags ;  the 
ler  he  delivered,  but  with  a  bad  grace,  the  latter  he 
were  in  the  lands  when  I  left  Lake  De  Sable ;  (as  in- 
ted  by  the  traders  I  suppose)  and  that  he  could  not 

them.     It  thundered  an^  lightened. 
29tb  March,   Saturday, — ^We  all  marched  in  the 
ig.     Mr.  Grant  and  party  for  Sandy  Lake,  and  I 
;  my  hunting  camp.     I  gave  him  my  spaniel  dog.    He 
led  me  again  after  we  had  seperated  about  5  miles.  Ar* 
at  my  hunting  camp  about  8  o'clock  in  the  morning, 
was  inft>rmed  that  my  hunters  had  gone  to  bring  in  a 
they  arrived  with  it,  and  about  1 1  o'clock  we  all 
It  out  hunting.    Saw  but  few  deer,  out  of  which  I  had 
good  fortune  to  kill  two.    On  our  arrival  at  camp 
id  one  of  my  men  at  the  garrison,  with  a  letter  from  Mr. 
son.    The  soldier  informed  me  that  one  Sioux  had 
Ived  with  Mr.  Dickson's  men.    Although  much  fa- 
led,  soon  as  I  had  eat  something,  I  took  one  of  my 
and  dep?rted  for  the  garrison  one  hour  before  sun- 
The  distance  was  21  miles,  and  the  ice  very  dange- 
IS  bang  rotten,  and  the  water  over  it  nearly  a  ftxst  deep ; 
had  sticks  in  our  hands,  and  in  many  places  ran  them 
[oughtheice.  It  thundered  and  lightened  with  rain.  The 
^ux  not  finding  the  Sauteurs,  had  returned  immediate^. 
30/^  March,  Sunday,'-^Wrote  to  Mr,  Dickson  and 
latched  his  noti.     Considerably  stiff  from  my  yester- 
^'s  march. .   Caulked  our  boats,  as  the  ice  had  every 
}earance^  of  breaking  up  in  a  few  days.    Thus  whilst 
I  the  wing  of  eager  expectation,  every  day  seemed  an 


I 


\  i' 


H 


n  1. 


-   -*     'tT' 


Ijllilllilill 
III 


m 


lli'!   1    I'-        '! 


Mf 


:  i 


8B 


JOURNAL  Ol?  A  VOYAGfe 


age.     H^ceived  two  deers  and  an  half  from  our  ht 
camp. 

31st  March f  Mttnday.-^Vimsh^  caulking  my  beat! 
the  difficulty  then  was  with  m^,  what  I  should  get  to  i 
the  seams.     We  were  all  this  day  and  next  as  anxioi 
watching  the  ice,  as  a  lover  would  the  arrival  of  the  prie 
who  was  to  unite  him  to  his  beloved.  Sometimes  it  moved! 
little,  but  soon  closed.  An  Indian  and  his  woman  crossedq 
when  the  poles  which  they  held  in  their  hands  were 
ed  through  in  many  places.    The  provision  to  whichj 
was  obliged  to  restrict  myself  and  m)^  viz :  two 
of  fresh  venison  per  day,  was  scarcely  sufficient  to 
us  alive.    Though  I  had  not  an  extraordinary  appetite 
yet  I  was  continually  hungry. 

2d  April,  Wednesday. — ^Went  out  and  killed  one  de 
and  two  partridges.  '  The  ice  began  to  move  oppo^te 
fort  at  th^  foot  of  the  rapids,  but  dammed  up  below.  Rel 
ceived  half  a  dozen  bears  from  my  hunting  camp.  Launc 
ed  our  canoe  and  brought  her  down. 

3d  April,  Thursday. — Sent  one  man  down  to  see  tii| 
river,  another  to  the  camp,  and  took  two  men  mys 
over  the  hills  on  the  other  side  of  the  Mississippi  to  hi 
In  the  course  of  the  day  I  killed  a  swan  and  a  goose, 
we  certainly  would  have  killed  one  or  two  elk,  had  it 
been  for  the  Udgh  dogs ;  for  we  lay  concealed  on  th 
banks  of  Clear  river,  when  four  came  and  threw  then 
selves  into  it  opposite,  and  were  swimming  directly  to  i 
when  our  dogs  bounced  into  the  water,  and  they  turne 
We  then  fired  on  them,  but  they  carried  off  all  the!  le 
we  gave  them,  and  we  could  not  cross  the  river,  unle 
we  rafted  (it  being  bank  full)  which  would  have  detainei 
us  too  IcAg  a  time.  In  the  evening  it  bi^came  very  cold 
aoid  we  passed  rather  an  uncomfortitb)^  night.  .ii>ii^i^t 
}iM\'4th  April,.  f]r/i/«y.— Toofcfour  «6urs6  home.  I 
led  oiie  large  buck  and  wounded  another;    W<6  madei 


TO  THE  SOURCES  OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI.         89 

I  and  eat  breakfast    Arrived  at  the  fort  at  2  o'clock  P. 

was  informed  that  the  river  was  still  shut  below,  at  the 

ister  of  islands.     Received  some  bear  meat,  and  one 

;r  fix>m  the  camp. 

Stb  April,  Saturday.'^hi  the  morning  dispatched  two 

down  the  river  in  order  to  see  if  it  was  open.    My 

Iters  arrived  from  the  camps.    Tallowed  my  boats  with 

candles  and  launched  them,  they  made  considerable 
ter.  The  young  Shawonoe  airived  in  my  canoe  from 
>ve,  with  about  1000  lbs.  of  fur,  which  he  deposited 

\e  fort.    The  men  returned  and  informed  me  that  the 
was  stUi  shut  about  10  miles  below. 
6th  April,  Sunday,S^iled  my  peroque  with  sergeant 
idley  and  two  men,  to  descend  the  river  and  see  if  it 

yet  open  below.    They  returned  in  the  afternoon  and 
>rted  all  clear.    I  had  previously  determined  to  load 

embark  the  next  day,  and  hoped  to  find  it  free  by  the 
le  I  arrived.  The  Fols  Avoin,  called  the  Shawonoe, 
^ved  and  encamped  near  the  stockade.  He  informed 
that  hxs  nation  had  determined  to  send  his  son  down  in 
place,  as  he  declined  the  voyage  to  St.  Louis.  All 
rts  and  hands  were  employed  in  preparing  for  our  d«- 
ture.    In  the  evening  the  men  cleared  out  their  room 

danced  to  the  violin,  and  sang  songs  until  1 1  o'clock, 
rejoiced  was  every  heart  at  leaving  this  savage  wilder- 

^tb  April,  Monday, — ^Loaded  our  boats  and  departed 
ty  minutes  .past  ten  o'clock.     At  one  o'clock  arrived  at 
sariiver,  where  we  found  my  canoe  and  men.  Although 
partly  promised  the  Fols  Avoin  chief  to  remain  one 
It,  yet  time  was  too  precious,  and  we  put  oiF;  passed 
Grand  Rapids,  and  arrived  at  Mr.  Dickson's  just  be- 
sun-down  ;  we  were  saluted  with  three  rounds.     At 
It  he  treated  all  my  men  with  a  supper  and  dram., 


■Xt :!,! 


llil  li'lll'is 


I  -:!i 


dd 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE 


Mr.  Dickson,  Mr.  F^utier  and  myself,  sat  up  until  fo 
o'clock  in  the  morning. 

%th  Aprily  Twj^a/.— Were  obliged  to  remain 
day  on  account  of  some  information  to  be  obtained  hen 
I  spent  the  day  in  making  a  rough  chart  of  St.  Peten 
making  notes  on  the  Sioux,  &C4  settling  the  affairs  of 
Indian  department  with  Mr.  Dickson,  for  whose  comn)i| 
nications,  and  those  of  Mr.  Paulier,  I  am  infinitely 
debted.    Made  every  necessary,  preparation  for  an  ea 
embarkadon. 

9tb  Aprils  Wednejday.-^Koae  early  in  the  moi 
and  commenced  my  arrangements.     Having  observed 
Indians  drunk,  during  the  night,  and  finding  upon  enqid 
ry,  that  the  liquor  had  been  furnished  them  by  a  Mr.  Gre 
nor  or  Jennesse,  I  sent  my  interpreter  to  them;  to 
quest  they  would  not  sell  any  strong  liquor  to  rlie  Inc 
upon  which  Mr.  ^nnesse  demanded  the  reitiicdonsj 
writing,  which  were  given  to  him,*     On  demanding 
licence  it  amounted  to  no  more,  than  merely  a  certific 
that  he  had  paid  the  tax  required  by  a  law  of  the  Indiana  t 
ritory,  on  all  retailers  of  merchandize ;  but  it  was  by  i 
means  an  Indian  licence ;  however,  I  did  not  think  prop 
to  go  into  a  more  close  investigation.     Last  night,  was! 
cold  thai  the  water  was  covered  with  floating  cakes  of  a 
of  a  strong  consistence.    After  receiving  every  mark  of  j 
tendon  from  Messrs.  Dickson  and  Paulier,  I  took  my  dep 
ture  at  8  o'clock.     At  4  P.  M.  arrived  at  the  house  of 
Paulier,  25  leagues,  to  whose  brother  I  had  a  letter.   ^| 
received  with  politeness  by  him  and  a  Mr.  Veau,  who^ 
tered  along  side  of  him,  on  the  very  island,  at  which  well 

encamped  on  the  night  of  the : of  Oct.  in  asce 

ing.     After  having  left  this  place  some  time,  we  discov 
ed  a  bark  canoe  a-head,  we  gained  on  it  ^for  some 
-•   -.:'  .  ;  ■  .  ./  .    ■ 

•  See  appendix  to  part  l|i[No..io.] pagu  44'. 


TO  THE- SOURCES  OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI.         91 


it  tumed'a  point  about  800  yards  before ;  and  on 

turning  it  sAio,  it  had  entirely  disappeared.    This  ex- 

my  curiosity,  I  stood  up  in  the  barge,  and  at  last 

:overed  it  tamed  up  in  the  grass  of  the  prairie,  but  af« 

iwe  had  passed  a  good  gun  shot,  three  savages  made 

appearance  itpm  under  it,  launched  her  in  the  river, 

followed,  not  knowing  of  my  other  boats  which  had 

turned  the  point  immediately  upon.  them.     They  then 

le  on  I /and,  on  my  stopping  for  the  night  at  a  vacant 

Ung  house  also  stopped,  and  addressed  me  *'  Saggo 

ittdantf  or  *iyimr  serOant  captain"    I  directed  my 

)reter  to  enquire  their  motives,  for  concealing  tfaeni- 

I  They  replied,  that  their  canoe'  leaked,  and  that 

had  turned  her  up  to  discharge  the  water.     This  I 

not  believe,  as  their  conduct  was  e4uivocal,  I  received 

rather  sternly }  I  gave  them  however  a  small  dram 

piece  pf  bread.    Theyjbea  ii^embarked,  and  con^ 

led  do\i(n  the  riv0r.     Their  conduct  brought  to  mind 

visit  of !  the  FiU;jde  Pinc^w  to  Mr*  Dickson,  during 

winter;  oniej /principal  cause  of 'which  Iwas,  that  he 

^hed  to  inform  tme  that  the  seveji  men,  whom  I  men^* 

led  to  have  rmet  when  crossing  the  portage  of  St.  Mt* 

ly^  had  since  dedared  that  they uwould  kill  him  for 

^oing  to  thevpe^e  betweenithe^  Sioux  and  Sauteurs.; 

for  being  instrumental  iii  preventii^  them  from,  taking 

revehge  for  relations  /hilled  by^^he  Sauteurs  in  Au« 

lJiK)5.f^and  Tfjomas^  the  Feds;  jJkAroir.  chief,  for  the 

)p0nJhe  ^oemed  disposed  to  ^eme;^  :  This  information 

not  made  the  impressionif  ought  to  have  made,  coi^n* 

from  sQjrespectable  a  souix!£,  as  the  hrst  chief  of  the 

Jage lubut  the  fxmductdfi  ^hose  feUows  put  me  tpth^ 

isidecation  of  it.  And  I  apfiealio>G6d  and  my  country,  if 

preservation:  would  not ;  have  j^tiHed  me^  in  cutting 

)se  scoundrels^  pieces  wherever  I  found  them  ?     Thii 

men  would  have  done,  if  ©rdered^  amidst  a  thousand 


-I 


9.2 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE 


'M] 


of  them,  and  I  ahoukl  haYe  been  supported,  by  the  el 
of  the  St.  Peters,  tt  the  mouth  of  which  were  aoo 
riors,  attending  my  arrival  ^  also  thd  rascal  who  fired 
my  sentinel  last  winter.    I  dreaded  the  consequences  i 
the  meeting  not  for  the  present }  but  for  km  the  imj 
osity  of  my  conduct  might  not  be  appvpved  of  by  my  { 
vemment  $  who  did  not  so  intimatdy  know  the  nature  ( 
those  savages..    This  day  ^  for  the  first  time,  we  saw 
commencement  of  vegetation,  yet  the  snow -was  a 
deep  in  some  places.  . 

10th  April,  TJlntriday.^¥mSaaled  at  half  past  5  o'clodj 
about  7  passed  Rum  river,  and  at  8  wei^e  saluted  by  6i 
7  lodges  of  Fols  Avoins,  amongst  whom  was  a  Mr. 
a  clerk  of  Mr.  Dickson's.     Those  people  had  winte 
on  Rum  river,  and  were  waiting  for  their  chiefs  and 
ders  to  descend  in  order  to  accompany  them  to  the  Pi 
Des  Chiens.     Arrived'  at  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony  at 
^*clock.     Carried  over  all  our  loading  and  the  canoe  j 
the  lower  end  of  the  portage,  and  haul^  our  boats  upi 
the  bank.  ^  I  pitched  my  tents  at  the  lottrer  end  of  thei 
campment  where  all  the  men  encamped  except  the 
whose  quarters  we^e  above.     The  s^pearance  of  the  Fai 
was  much  more  tremendous  than  when  we  ascjSndied ; 
increase  of  water  occasioned  the  ^ray  to  raise  <nu 
higher,!  and  the  mist  appeared  like  clouds.     How  diffcj 
ent  my  sensations  nov^,  from  what  they  were  when  at  I 
place  before;  at  that  time  not  having  accomplished 
than  half  my  routes  wint^  £aat  approaching }  war 
ing  between  the  most  savage  nations  in  the  course  of 
route ;  my  provisions  greatly  diminished,,  and  but  a 
prospect  of  an  additional  supply.    Many  of  my  men  i 
and  the  others  not  a«  little  disheartened ;  and  our  successij 
^s  arduous  undertaking,  very  doubtful ;  just  upon  i 
borders  of  the  haunts  of  civilized  men,  about  to  lau 
into  an  unknown  wilderness  y.  for  ours  was  the  first  ca 


TO  THE  SOURCES  OP  THE  MISSISSIPPI.         98 


It  had  ever  crossed  this  portage,  were  sufficient  to  dis- 

my  breast  of  contentment  and  ease.    But  now  we 

re  accomplished  every  wish,  peace  reigns  throughout 

vast  extent ;  we  have  returned  thus  far  on  our  voy- 

without  the  loss  of  a  single  man,  and  hoping  soon 

blessed  with  the  society  of  our  reladons  and  friends. 

river  this  morning  covered  with  ice,  which  continued 

\g  all  day.    The  shores  still  barricaded  with  it.  '^^^ 

lltb  Jpriif  fWiiy.— Although  it  snowed  very  hard, 

Ivought  over  both  boats  and  descended  the  river  to  the 

id  at  the  entrance  of  the  St.  Peters.    I  sent  to  the 

fs  and  informed  them  I  had  something  to  communicate 

lemi    TheFils  de  Pinchow  immediately  waited  on 

and  informed  me  that  he  would  provide  A  place  fbi* 

purpose*    About  sun-down  I  was  sent  for  and  intro^ 

I  into  die  council  house,  where  I  found  ar  great  many 

of  the  Sussitongs,  Gens  des  Feuilles,  and  the 

du  Lac.    The  Yanctongs  had  not  yet  come  down. 

were  ail  waiiting  fbr  my  arrival.    There  were  about 

lodges  or  dOO  people ;  we  were  saluted  on  our  cros- 

i:ithe  river  with  ball  as  usual.    The  council  house  was 

|[e  lodges,  capable  of  containing  300  men.    In  the 

were  40  chfds,#and  as  many  pipes,  set  against  the 

fcs ;  along  side  of  which  I  had  the  Sauteurs'  pipes  ar- 

I  then  informed  them  in  short  detail,  of  my 

ictions  with  [the  Sautetirs ;  b'Jt  my  interpreters  were 

capable  of  making  ^thi^mselves  understood.    I  was 

sfore  obliged  to  omit  mentionhig  every  fmrdcular  re- 

to  the  rascal  who  fired  on  my  sentiniel,  and  of  the 

mdrel  who  broke  the  Fols  Avoins*  canoes,  and  threat^ 

my  life ;  the  interpreters  howeVer  informed  them  that 

mted  some  of  their  jpirindpal  chiefs  to  go  to  St.  Louis ; 

thM  those  who  thought-proper  might  descend  to  the 

!  where  we  would  ^ve  them  more  explicit  informa- 

They  all  smoked  Out  of  the  Sauteurs*  pipes,  ex- 


r^ 


K: 


. 


u 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE 


I.J  ;!'. 


ii;:Miliii 


ri:i  'i' 


Ur.i: 


cepting  three,  who  were  panted  blacfk,  and  were  some  i 
those  who  lost  their  relations  last  winter.    1  invited 
Fils  de  Pinchow,  and  the  son  of  the  Killeur  Rouge^ 
come  over  and  sup  with  me  $  when  Mr.  ^Dickson  and  iny| 
self  endeavored  to  explain  what  I  intended  to  have  saidi 
them,  couJkl  I  have  made  myself  undrtistood ;  that  at 
prairie  we  would  have  all  things  explaited  j  that  I  waside 
rous  of  making  a  better  report  of  th^m  than  capt.  Le 
could  do  from  their  treatment  of  him.  The  former  of  tho 
savages  \ras  tb^  person  who  remained  around  my  post 
last  winter,  and. treated  my  men  so  well }  they  endeavor 
to  excuse  their  people,  &c. 

12tb  Aprils  S0/»r^ay.— 'Embarked  early V    Althbuj 
my  interpreter  had  been  frequently  up  the  river,  hecou 
not  tell  me  where  the  cave  (spokoi  of  by  Carver)  con 
be  found;  we  carefully  sought  for  it,  but  in  vain. 
th(9  Indian^viUage,  a  few  miles  above  St.  Peters,  we^^ 
abcHit  to  pass  a  few  lodges,  but  on.iTeceiving  a  v1^vy>  pa 
cuiai*:  invitation  to  come  on  shore,  we  landed,  and 
received  in.  a  lodge  kindly ;  they)|Mre8?nted  us  sugtir, 
I  gave  the  proprietor!  a  dram^  and  itras  about  to  diep 
when  he„denianded«  kettle  of  li()Uor;  on  being  ref 
ai^d  after  I  had  left  the  shore,  he  told  kne^  that  he,  did  i 
like  the  arriiHgements,;  and  thathe  would^go  to  war  tl| 
summer.'  I  dii'ect^  the  interpreter  to  jteU  him,  thati 
returned  to  the  St.  Feter$  with  the  tro0p6,  I  would  i 
;hat  affair  with  him.     On  our,|i|rriy0l  at  the  St.iCrc 
found  the  Petit  Corbeau  with  his  people,  $md  Messrs*  ij 
zer  and  Wood*    We  had  a  conferienc^  when  the  if 
Corbeaunaade  many  apologias  for  the  misconduct  of  I 
people ;  he  represented  to  us  the  different  manners  in; 
his  young  vfa^riors  hp^d  been  inducing  him  to  go  to 
that  he  iiadb^gn  mu^h  blamedjiidr  disn^issinghis  panyi 
fall ;  but  that  he  was  determined  to  adhere  as  far  asiaji 
bis  power;  to  our  instructions  {  that  he  thought.it 


TO  THE  SOURCES  OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI.        9» 


ident  to  remain  here  and  restrain  the  warriors.    He 

presented  me  with  a  beaver  robe  and  pipe,  and  his 

isage  to  the  general.    That  he  was  determined  to  pre- 

re  peace,  and  make  the  road  clear ;  also  a  remembrance 

lis  promised  medal.    I  made  him  a  reply,  calculated 

confirm  him  in^s  good  intentions,  and  assured  him 

he  should  not  be  the  less  remembered  by  his  father, 
hough  not  present.    I  was  informed,  that,  notwith^ 

ling  the  instructbn  of  his  licence,  and  my  particular 
lest,  Murdoch  Cameron  had  taken  liquor  and  sold  it  to 
Indians  on  the  river  St.  Peters ;  and  that  his  partner 
}w  had  been  equally  imprudent.  I  pledged  myself  to 
:ute  them  according  to  law ;  for  they  have  been  the 

sion  of  great  confusion,  and  of  much  injury  to  the 
»r  traders.  This  day  met  a  canoe  of  Mr.  Dickson's, 
led  with  provision,  under  the  charge  of  Mr.  Ander- 

brother  of  the  Mb.  Anderson,  at  Leech  Lake.    He 

Itely  offered  me  any  provision  he  had  on  board,  (for 

:h  Mr.  Dickson  had  given  me  an  order)  but  not  now 

jig  in  want,  I  did  not  accept  of  any.    This  day,  for  the 

time,  I  observed  the  trees  beginning  to  bud,  and  in- 
the  climate  seemed  to  have  changed  very  materially 
we  passed  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony. 

13th  April,  Sunday. — ^We  embarked  after  breakfast, 
psrs.  Frazer  and  Wood  accompanied  me.  Wind  strong 
bd.    They  outrowed  us ;  the  first  boat  or  canoe  we 

with  on  the  voyage  able  to  do  it,  but  then  they  were 
kble  manned  and  light.     Arrived  at  the  band  of  the 
Rouge  at  2  o'clock,  where  we  were  saluted  as  usual. 

had  a  council,  when  he  spoke  with  more  detestation 
[he  conduct  of  the  rascals  at  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Pe- 
than  any  man  I  had  yet  heard.    He  assured  rae, 

^king  of  the  fellow  who  had  fired  on  my  sentinel,  and 

itened  to  kill  me,  that  if  I  thought  it  requisite,  he  should 

tilled }  but  that  as  there  were  many  chiefs  above,  with 


n 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE 


m 


!       I 


whom  he  wished  to  speak,  he  hoped  I  would  remain 
one  day,  whea  all  the  Sioux  would  be  down,  and  I 
might  have  the  conunand  of  a  thousand  men  of  them, 
that  I  would'  probably  think  it  no  honor ;  but  that  the 
British  used  to  flatter  them  they  were  proud  of  having 
them  for  soldiers.     I  replied  in  general  terms,  and  assur- 
ed him  that  it  was  not  for  the  conduct  of  two  or  three 
rascals  that  I  meant  to  pass  over  all  the  good  treatment  I 
had  received  from  the  Sioux  nation ;  but,  that  in  general 
council  I  would  explain  myself.     That  as  to  the  scoundrel 
who  fired  at  my  sentinel,  had  I  been  at  home,  the  Sioux 
nation  would  never  have  been  troubled  with  him,  for  I 
would  have  killed  him  on  the  spot.     But  that  my  young 
men  did  not  do  it,  apprehensive  that  I  would  be  displea8«. 
ed.     I  then  gave  him  the  news  of  the  Sauteurs,  &c.  that 
as  to  remaining  one  day,  it  would  be  of  no  service ;  that 
I  was  much  pressed  to  arrive  below ;  as  my  general  ex- 
pected me,  my  duty  called  me,  and  that  the  state  of  my 
provision  demanded  the  utmost  expedition ;  that  I  would 
be  happy  to  oblige  him,  but  that  my  men  must  eat.    He 
replied,  that  Lake  Pepin  being  yet  shut  with  ice,  if  I 
went  on  and  encamped  on  the  ice,  it  would  not  get  me 
provision.     That  he  would  send  out  all  his  young  men 
the  next  day ;  and,  that  if  the  other  bands  did  not  arrive 
he  would  depart  the  day  after  with  me.     In  short,  after 
much  talk,  I  agreed  to  remain  one  day,  knowing  that  the 
lake  was  closed  and  that  we  could  proceed,  only  nine 
miles  if  we  went ;  this  appeared  to  give  general  satisfac- 
tion.    I  was  invited  to  difierent  feasts,  and  entertained  at 
one  by  a  person  whose  father  was  enacted  a  chief  by  the 
Spaniards.  At  this  feast  I  saw  a  man  (called  by  the  French 
the  Roman  nose,  and  by  the  Indians  the  Wind  that  Walks) 
who  was  formerly  the  second  chief  of  the  Sioux,  but  be- 
ing the  cause  of  the  death  of  one  of  the  traders,  seven 
years  since,  he  voluntarily  relincjuished  the  dignity,  and 


has  fret 
he  was 
himself 
His  Joflj 
in  him, 
which  tl 
mitteri  lo 
and  as  no 
facto,  am 
certainly 
however, 
Mr.  Rolle 
some  bran 
ing  those  a 
to  prosecu 
cepted  of  t 
prosecuuon 
personal  pn 
quence  of  t 
to  set  fishin 
foi"  the  time 
into  their  1 
the  greatest 
tably  have  j 
'he  rascal  s 
actually  cocl 
but  was  pre\ 

\  Roman  Nose. 

be  detailed  h 
pessrs.  Woe 

called  the  Bar 
iThe  valley 
Ithannels  wou, 
and  the  lofty 


TO  THE  SOURCES  OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI.         97 


emadn 

md  I 

them, 

at  the 

having 
assur- 

r  three 

:ment  1 

general 

Dundrel 

e  Sioux 

n,  fori 

y  yoiaig 

displeas- 

&c.  that 

ce;  that 

leral  ex- 

te  of  my 
I  would 

eat.  He 
ice,  if  1 
)t  get  me 
lung  men 
lot  arrive 
3rt,  after 
that  the 

»nly  ni»e 
satisfac- 

tained  at 

|ef  by  the 
te  French 
It  Walks) 
:,  but  be- 
irs,  seven 
ity,  and 


has  frequently  requested  to  be  given  up  to  the  whites.  But 
he  was  now  determined  to  go  to  St.  Louis  and  deliver 
himself  up  where  he  said  they  might  put  him  to  death* 
His  long  repentance,  the  great  confidence  of  the  nation 
in  him,  would  perhaps  protect  him  from  a  punishment 
which  the  crime  merited.  But  as  the  crime  was  com- 
mitted long  before  the  United  States  assumed  its  authority, 
and  as  no  law  ol  theirs  could  affect  it,  unless  it  was  ex  post 
facto,  and  had  a  retrospective  eflfect,  I  conceive  it  would 
certainly  be  dispunishable  now.  I  did  not  think  proper, 
however,  to  inform  him  so.  I  here  received  a  letter  from 
Mr.  Rollet,  partner  of  Mr.  Cameron,  with  a  present  of 
some  brandy,  coffee  and  sugar.  I  hesitated  about  receiv- 
ing those  articles  from  the  partner  of  the  man  I  intended 
to  prosecute ;  their  amount  being  trifling,  however  I  ac- 
cepted of  them,  offering  him  pay.  I  assured  him  that  the 
prosecution  arose  from  a  sense  of  duty,  and  not  from  any 
personal  prejudice.  My  canoe  did  not  come  up,  in  conse- 
quence of  the  head  wind.  Sent  out  two  men  in  a  canoe 
to  set  fishing  lines ;  the  canoe  overset,  and  had  it  not  been 
for  the  timely  assistance  of  the  savages,  who  carried  them 
into  their  lodges,  undressed  them  and  treated  them  with 
the  greatest  humanity  and  kindness,  they  must  inevi- 
tably have  perished.  At  this  place  1  was  informed,  that 
the  rascal  spoken  of  as  having  threatened  my  life,  had 
actually  cocked  his  gun  to  shoot  rae  from  behind  the  hills, 
but  was  prevented  by  the  others. 

14ft h  April ,  Monday^^-Wis  invited  to  a  feast  by  the 
Roman  Nose.  His  conversation  was  interesting,  and  shall 
[be  detailed  hereafter.  The  other  Indians  not  yet  arrived. 
[Messrs.  Wood,  Irazer,  and  myself,  ascended  a  high  hill 
called  the  Bam,  from  which  we  had  a  view  of  Lake  Pepin. 
The  valley  through  which  the  Mississippi  by  numerous, 
thannds  wound  itself  to  the  St.  Croix ;  the  Cannon  river 
|and  the  lofty  hills  on  each  side. 


I  * 


•■\'' 


^      i  :¥ 


^m 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE 


i  M I 


ifi' 


il 


1 1  ii 

i 


1 5th  JptfU,  Tuesday, — A^-ose  very  early  and  embslrk- 
ed  about  sunidse,  much  to  the  astonishment  of  the  In* 
dians,  who  v^eire  entirely  prepared  for  the  council,  when 
they  heard  I  had  put  off;  however  after  some  conversa- 
tion with  Mr.  Frazer,  they  acknowledged  that  it  was 
•agreeably  to  what  I  had  said,  that  I  would  sail  early,  and  that 
they  could  not  blame  me.  I  was  very  positive  in  my  word, 
for  I  found  it  by  far  the  best  way  to  treat  the  Indians.  The 
Aile  Rouge  had  a  beaver  robe  and  pipe  prepared  to  present, 
but  was  obliged  for  the  present  to  retaip  it^  Passed  through 
Lake  Pepin  with  my  barges,  the  canoe  being  obliged  to 
lay  by,  did  not  come  on.  Stbpt  at  a  prairie  on  the  right 
bank  descending,  about  nine  miles  below  Lake  Pepin. 
Went  out  to  view  some  hills  which  had  the  appearance  of  { 
the  old  fortifications  spoken  of;  but  1  will  speak  more  ful- 
ly of  them  hereaftei-.  In  these  hollows  I  discovered  a  I 
jQock  of  elk,  took  out  fifteen  men,  but  we  were  not  able 
to-  kill  any.  Mr.  Frazer  came  up  and  passed  on  about  two 
mites'.  We  eneartiped  tdgether.  Neither  Mr.  Wood's! 
nor  my  canoe  arrived.    Snowed  considerably. 

ieth  Jpril^  Wednei^ay^-^Mr,  Fra2:er's  canoes  and  I 
thy  boats  sailed  about  one  hour  by  suii.  We  waited  some 
time  expecting  Mr.  Wood's  barges,  and  my  canoe,  but 
hearing  a  gun  fired  first  just  above  our  encampment,  we  I 
were  induced  to  make  sail.  Passed  the  Aile  Prairie,  also  Lai 
Montagne  qui  Trompe  a  L*eau,  the  prairie  De  Cross,  and  I 
encamped  on  the  W.  shore,  a  few  hundred  yards  belpv,| 
wh^re  I  had  enciamped  on  the  day  of  September,  inl 
descending.  Killed  a  goose  flying.  Shot  at  some  pidgeonsi 
at  our  camp,  and  wa&  answered  from  behmd  an  island! 
with  two  guns ;  we  returned  them,  and  were  replied  to  byl 
two mor^.  This  day  the  trees  appeared  in  bloom.  Snowl 
RUght  s^U  be  seen  on  the  sides  of  the  hills.    Distance  7^1 


TO  THE  SOURCES  OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI. 


99 


ibark- 
he  In- 

when 
iversa- 
it  was 
indthat 
^  word, 
IS.  The 
present, 
through 
liged  to 
he  right 
e  Pepin, 
urance  of 
more  ful- 
:overed  a 

notable 
about  two  I 
.  Wood's 

inoes  aid  I 
aitedsome 
:anoe,  but] 
pment,  v/e' 
ie,  also  La| 
Cross, 
irds  belpv, 
)tember,  in 
ne  pidgeons 
i  an  island! 
•epliedtoby 
Dotti.  Snovl 
Distance  7i 


;>_■  '♦ 


nth  April,  Thursday.—"'?  oflF  pretty  eaily  and  ar- 
rived at  Wabasha's  band  at  1 1  o  clock,  where  I  detained 
all  day  for  him ;  but  he  alone  of  all  the  hunters  remained 
out  all  night.  Left  some  powder  and  tobacco  for  him. 
The  Sioux  presented  me  with  a  kettle  of  boiled  meat  and 
a  deer.  I  here  received  information  that  the  Puants  had 
killed  some  white  men  below,  Mr.  Wood's  and  my  canoe 
arrived. 

18//&  April,  Friday, — ^Departed  from  our  encampment 
Very  early.  Stopped  to  breakfast  at  the  Painted  Rock.  Ar- 
trived  at  the  Prairie  Des  Cheins  at  two  o'clock  j  and  were 
received  by  crouds  on  the  bank.  Took  up  my  quarters 
at  Mr.  Fisher's.  My  men  received  a  present  of  one  bar- 
rel of  pork  from  Mr.  Campbell,  a  bag  of  biscuit,  20  loaves 
of  bread,  and  some  meat  from  Mr.  Fisher.  A  Mr.  Jear- 
reau,  from  Cahokia,  is  here,  who  embarks  tomorrow  for 
St.  Louis.  I  wrote  to  general  Wilkinson  by  him.*  I  was 
called  on  by  a  number  of  chiefs,  Reynards,  Sioux  of  the 
Des  Moyan,  &c.  The  Winebagos  were  here  intending, 
as  I  was  informed,  to  deliver  some  of  the  murderers  to 
me.  Received  a  great  deal  of  news  from  the  States  and 
Europe,  both  civil  and  militaiy. 

I9th  April,  Saturday. — Dined  at  Mr.  Campbell's  in 
company  with  Messrs.  Wilmot,  Blakely,  Wood,  Rollet, 
Fisher,  Frazer,  and  Jearreau.  Six  canoes  arrived  from 
the  upper  part  of  the  St.  Peters  with  the  Yanctong  chiefs 
from  the  head  of  that  river.  Their  appearance  was  in- 
deed savage,  much  more  so  than  any  nation  I  have  yet 
seen.  Prepared  my  boat  for  sail.  Gave  notice  to  the 
Puants  that  I  had  business  to  do  with  them  the  next  day, 
A  band  of  the  Gens  Du  Lac  arrived.  Took  into  my  pay 
as  interpreter  Mr.  Y.  Reinville. 

20/A  April,  Sunday. — ^Held  a  council  with  the  Puant 
chiefs,  and  demanded  of  them  the  murderers  of  their  na- 


Aer  appendii  to  part  !■  [No.  Ii]pagc  aj. 


-^Ai^^r 


100 


Journal  of  a  voyage 


!l',! 


tion  ;t  they  required  till  tomorrow  to  consider  of  it ;  this 
afternoon  they  had  a  great  game  of  the  cross  on  the  prai- 
rie, between  the  Sioux  on  the  one  side,  and  the  Puants  and 
Reynards  on  the  other.    The  ball  is  made  of  some  hard 
substance  and   covered  with  leather,   the  cross   sticks 
are  round  and  net  work,  with  handles  of  three  feet  long. 
The  parties  being  ready,  and  bets  agreed  upon,  (some- 
times to  the  amount  of  some  thousand  dollars)  the  goals 
are  set  up  on  the  prairie  at  the  distance  of  half  a  mile.  The 
ball  is  thrown  up  in  the  middle,  and  each  party  strives  to 
drive  it  to  the  opposite  goal ;  and  when  either  party  gains 
the  first  rubber,  which  is  driving  it  quick  round  the  post, 
the  ball  is  again  taken  to  the  centre,  the  ground  changed, 
and  the  contest  renewed  ;  and  this  is  continued  until  one 
side  gains  four  times,  which  decides  the  bet.     It  is  an  in^  i 
teresting  sight  to  see  two  or  three  hundred  naked  savag;es 
contending  on  the  plain  who  shall   bear  off  the  palm 
of  victory ;  as  he  who  drives  the  ball  round  the  goal  is 
much  shouted  at  by  his  companions.     It  sometimes  hap- 
pens that  one  catches  the  ball  in  his  racket,  and  depending! 
on  his  speed  endeavors  to  carry  it  to  the  goal,  and  when 
he  finds  himself  too  closely  pursued,  he  hurls  it  with 
great  force  and  dexterity  to  an  amazing  distance,  where 
there  are  always  flankers  of  both  parties  ready  to  receive 
it ;  it  seldom  touches  the  ground,  but  is  sometimes  kept 
in  the  air  for  hours  before  either  party  can  gain  the  victory. 
In  the  game  which  I  witnessed,  the  Sioux  were  victorious, 
more  I  believe,  from  the  superiority  of  their  skill  in  throw- 
ing the  ball,  than  by  their  swiftness,  for  I  thought  the  I 
Puants  and  Reynards  the  swiftest  runners.    I  made  a  writ- 
ten demand  of  the  magistrates  to  take  depositions  con* 
cerning  the  late  murders.}    Had  a  private  conversation] 
with  Wabasha. 

f  See  appendix  to  part  I.  [No.  lit  page  26. 
I  See  appendix  to  part  I.  [No.  13J  page  29. 


if,  this 

the  prai- 

ants  and 

me  hard 

iS   sticks 

•eet  long. 

i,  (some- 

the  goals 

nile.  The 

strives  to 

arty  gains 

1  the  post, 

I  changed, 

I  until  one 

It  is  an  inr 

Led  savages 

F  the  palm' 

the  goal  is 

!times  hap- 
dependingl 
and  when 
iris  it  with 

[nee,  where' 
to  receive 
itimes  keptl 
the  victory, 
victorious,! 
ill  in  throvf-' 
thought  the 
ladeawrit- 

lations  con- 
lonversationl 


TO  THE  FOURCES  OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI.         101^ 

21j/  April,  Mon^y.'-^Vfis  sent  for  by  La  Feuille, 
and  had  a  long  and  interesting  conversation  with  him,  in 
which  he  spoke  of  the  general  jealousy  of  his  nation  to- 
wards their  chiefs ;  and  that  although  he  knew  it  might 
occasion  some  of  the  Sioux  displeasure,  he  did  not  hesitate 
to  declare  that  he  looked  on  the  Mez  Corbeau,  as  the  man 
of  most  sense  in  their  nation ;  and  that  he  believed  it 
would  be  generally  acceptable  if  he  was  reinstated  in  his 
rank.  Upon  my  return  I  was  sent  for  by  the  Red  Thunder, 
chief  of  the  Yanctongs,  the  most  savage  band  of  the 
Sioux.  He  was  prepared  with  the  most  elegant  pipes  and 
robes  I  ever  saw ;  and  shortly  he  declared,  "  That  white 
"  blood  had  never  been  shed  in  the  village  of  the  Yauc- 
«  tongs,  even  when  rum  was  permitted  ;  that  Mr,  Mur- 
"  doch  Cameron  arrived  at  his  village  last  autunm ;  that 
"  he  invited  him  to  eat,  gave  Jiim  com  as  a  bird ;  that  he 
«  (Cameron)  informed  him  of  the  prohibition  of  run\, 
"  and  was  the  only  person'iMio  afterwards  sold  it  in  the 
**  village."  After  this  I  had>«i  council  with  the  Puants. 
Spent  the  evening  with  Mr.  Wilmot,  one  of  the  best  in- 
formed and  most  gentlemanly  man  in  the  place. 

22d  April,  Tuesday. — Hftld  a  council  with  the  Sioux 
and  Puants,  the  latter  of  whom  delivered  lip  their  medals 
and  flags.     Prepared  to  depart  tomorrow. 

^Sd  April,  Wednesday. — ^After^closing  my  accounts, 
&c.  at  half  past  12  o'clock  left  the  prairie,  at  the  lower 
end  of  it  was  saluted  by  1 7  lodges  of  the  Puants.  Met 
I  a  barge,  by  which  I  received  a  letter  from  my  lady.  Fur- 
ther on,  met  one  batteaux  and  one  canoe  of  traders.  Pas- 
sed one  trader's  camp.  Arrived  at  Mr.  Dubuque's  at  10 
o'clock  at  night,  found  some  traders  encamped  at  the  en- 
trance with  40  or  50  Indians,  obtained  some  information 
from  Mr.  D.  and  requested  him  to  write  me  on  certain 
[points.     After  we  had  boiled  our  victuals,  I  divided  my 


IJ'  :'f 


m 


Pi 


:.m  I 


"AW     ,■  Ml 


>\0i 


JOURNAL  or  A  VOYAGE 


men  into  four  watches  and  put  off,  wind  a-head.     Observ- 
ed for  the  first  time  the  half  formed  leaves  on  the  trees. 

24/i&  April,  Thunday, — In  the  morning  used  our  oars 
until  10  o'clock,  and  then  floated  while  breakfasting.  At 
this  time  two  barges,  one  bark,  and  two  wooden,  canoes 
passed  us  under  full  sail ;  by  one  of  which  I  sent  back  9 
letter  to  Mr.  Dubuque,  that  I  had  forgotten  to  deliver. 
Stopped  at  da;k  to  cook  supper,  after  which,  rowed  un- 
der the  windward  shore  expecting  we  could  make  head  way 
with  four  oars  ;  but  were  biown  on  the  lee  shore  in  a  few 
moments,  when  all  hands  were  summoned,  and  we  again 
with  difficulty  made  to  windward,  came  too,  placed  on« 
sentry  on  my  bow,  and  all  hands  beside  went  to  sleep.  It 
ndned,  and  before  morning,  the  water  overflowed  my  bed 
in  the  bottom  of  the  boat,  having  no  cover,  or  any  exj^ra 
accommodations,  as  it  might  have  retarded  my  voyage. 
The  wind  very  hard  a-head.)  r 

25th  Aprily  Friday. — Obliged  to  unship  our  mast  to  I 
prevent  its  rolling  overbo^(twith  the  swell.  Passed  the  | 
first  Reynard  village  at  r^  o'clock,  counted  1 8  lodges. 
Stopped  at  the  prairie  in  d«s^ending  on  the  left,  about  the  I 
middle  of  the  rapids,  wh6$l^  there  is  a  beautiful  cove  or 
harbor.  There  were  threec  lodges  of  Indians  here,  but 
none  of  them  came  near  us.  Shortly  after  we  had  left  I 
this,  observed  a  barge  under  sail,  with  the  United  States  I 
flag,  wliich  upon  our  being  seen  put  to  shore  on  the  Bigl 
Island,  about  three  miles  above  Stony  river,  where  I  alsol 
landed ;  it  proved  to  be  capt.  Many  of  the  artillerists,  whol 
was  in  search  of  some  Osage  prisoners  amongst  the  Sacsl 
and  Reynards.  He  informed  me  that  at  the  village  ofl 
Stony  Point,  the  Indians  evinced  a  strong  disposition  tol 
commit  hostilities ;  that  he  was  met  at  the  mouth  of  the! 
river  by  an  old  Indian,  who  said  that  all  the  inhabitants  of| 
the  village  were  in  a  state  of  intoxication,  and  advise 
him  to  go  up  alone.    This  advice  however  he  had  reject] 


TO  THE  SOURCES  OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI.         103 


)bserv- 
trees. 
(uroars 
ig.    At 
^canoes 
t  back  a 

deliver, 
>wed  vin- 
tjead  way 
;  in  a  few 
weag^ 
laced  one 
)  sleep.  It 
ed  my  bed 

any  ex$ra  | 
\y  voyage. 

pur  mast  to  I 
passed  the| 
18  lodges, 
t,  about  the 
iful  cove  or 
s  here,  but 
we  had  left' 
fnited  States! 
e  on  the  Big] 
where  I  alsol 
iUerists,  \M 
igst  the  Sacs 
he  village  oi 
lisposition  tol 
mouth  of  tbe 
inhabitants  of 

^  and  advis' 
he  had  reject- 


ed. That  when  they  arrived  there,  they  were  saluted  by 
the  appellation  of  the  bloody  Americans  who  had  lilled 
such  a  person's  father,  and  such  a  person's  mother,  bro- 
ther, &c.  The  women  carried  off  the  guns  and  other 
arms,  and  concealed  diem.  That  he  then  crossed  tlie 
river  opposite  to  the  village,  and  wks  followed  by  a  num- 
ber of  Indians)  with  pistols  under  their  blankets.  That 
they  would  listen  to  ho  conference  whatever,  relating  t^ 
the  delivery  of  thii  prisc^ers;  but  demanded  insolently 
why  he  wore  a  plume  in  his  hat ;  and  declared  that  they 
looked  on  it  as  a  maH'k  (^  war,  and  immediately  decorat- 
ed themselves  with  their  raVen^s  feathers,  worn  only  in 
cases  of  hostility.  We  regretted  that  our  orders  wouid 
not  permit  of  our  punishing  the  scoundrels,  as  by  a  cou/t 
de  main  we  might  es^y  have  carried  the  village.  Gave 
capt.  Many  a  note  of  introduction  to  Messrs.  Campbell^ 
Fisher,  Wilmot,  and  Dubuque,  and  every  information  in 
my  power.     We  sat  up  late  conversing.  ^^/ 

2Gth  April j  Saturday » — Capt.  Many  dnd  myself  tool: 
breakfast  and  iembarked^  wind  directly  a-head,  and  a 
most  tremendous  swell  to  combat,  which  has  e^il^ted  ever 
since  we  left  the  prdlHe.  Capt.  Many  uiMer  full  sail : 
descended  by  all  the  sinuosity  of  the  shore  to  avoid  the 
strength  of  the  wind  and  force  of  the  waves.  Indeed  I 
was  cdnfident  I  could  sail  much  faster  up  than  we  could 
possibly  mkke  down.  Encamped  on  Gr&nt's  prairie,  where 
we  had  encamped  on  the  25th  August  when  ascpiiding. 
There  was  one  Indian  and  family  present,  to  whom  I  gave 
some  com. 

2Vh  Aprils  Sunday. — ^It  cleared  off  dumg  the  night 
We  embarked  early  and  came  from  dght  Or  ten  leagues 
labove  the  river  Iowa,  to  the  establishment  at  the  lower 
Sac  village,  by  sundown,  a  distance  of  nearly  48  leagues. 
[Here  I  met  with  Messrs.  Maxwell  and  Blondeau ;  took 
tile  deposition  of  the  former,  on  the  subject  of  the  In- 


m^mm 


4^ 


!  n 


ti 


# 


1  5jl 


104 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE 


dian's  intoxication  at  this  place,  for  they  were  all  drunk. 
They  had  stolen  a  horse  from  the  establishment,  and  of. 
fered  to  bring  him  back  for  liquor,  but  laughed  at  them 
when  offered  a  blanket  and  powder.  Passed  two  canoes 
and  two  barges.  At  the  establishment  received  two  let. 
ters  from  Mrs.  Pike,  took  with  us  corporal  Eddy  and  the 
other  soldier  whom  capt.  Many  had  left.  Rowed  with 
four  oars  all  night.     A  citizen  took  passage  with  me. 

28/^  Aprili  Monday. — ^In  the  morning  passed  a  win- 
tering ground,  where  from  appearance,  there  must  have 
been  at  least  seven  or  eight  different  establishments.  At 
12  o'clock  arrived  at  the  Frendi  house,  mentioned  in  our 
voyage  up,  ^bput  the  16th  of  August.  Here  we  landed 
our  citizen,  his  name  w;as  .:  .  , ,  and  he  belonged  to 
the  settlement  on  Copper  river.  He  informed  me  th^re 
were  about  25  families .  in  the  settlement.  Stopped  at  | 
some  islands  about  10  miles  above  Salt  river,  where  there 
were  pidgeon  roosts,  and  in  about  fifteen  n^inutes  my  men 
bad  knocked  on  the  head  and  brought  on  board  298.  I 
had  frequently  heard  of  the  fecundity  of  this  bird,  but 
never  gave  credit  to  what  1  then  thought  inclined  to  the 
marvellous ;  but  really  the  most  fervid  imagination  caniiotl 
conceive  their  numbers.  Their  noise  in  the  Woods  was 
like  the  continued  roairing  of  the  wind,  and  the  ground 
may  be  said  to  have  been  absolutely  covered  with  their  I 
excrement.  The  young  ones  which  we  killed  were  nearlyf 
as  large  as  the  old,  they  could  fly  about  ten  steps,  and! 
were  one  mass  of  fat ;  their  craws  were  filled  with  acomsl 
and  the  wild  pea.  They  were  still  reposing  on  their  nests,! 
which  were  Aierely  small  biftiches  of  sticks  joined,  with  I 
which  all  the  small  trees  were  covered.  Met  four  canoesi 
of  the  Sacs,  with  wicker  baskets  filled  with  young  pidgeons.1 
They  made  motions  to  exchange  them  for  liquor,  to  whichl 
I  returned  the  back  of  my  hand.  Indeed  those  scoun-l 
drels  had  become  so  insolent  through  the  instigation  ofl 


:*' 


m  ■    'III, 


TO  THE  SOURCES  OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI.        105 

the  traders,  that  nothing  but  the  lenity  of  our  goven;- 
ment  snd  humanity  for  the  poor  devils,  could  have  restrain- 
ed me  on  my  descent  from  carrying  some  of  their  to\nis 
by  surprize,  which  I  was  determined  to  have  done  had 
the  information  of  their  firing  oii  capt.  Many  proved  to 
have  been  correct.  Put  into  the  mouth  of  Salt  river  to 
cook  supper,  after  which  although  raining,  we  put  oflf  and 
set  our  watches,  but  so  violent  a  gale  and  thunder  storm 
I  came*  on  about  12  o'clock,  that  we  put  ashore ;  discover- 
[ed  that  one  of  my  sleigh  dogs  was  missing. 

29th  April,  Tuesday.-^hi  the  morning  still  raining, 
[and  wind  up  the  river,  hoisted  sail,  and  returned  to  the 
louth  of  the  river ;  but  neither  here  nor  on  the  shore 
could  we  find  my  dog }  this  was  no  little  mortification,  as 
|t  broke  the  match,  whose  important  services  I  had  alre»» 
iy  experienced,  after  having  brought  them  so  near  home. 
fe  continued  on  until  12  o'clock,  when  it  ceased  raining 
|br  a  little  time,  and  we  put  ashore  for  breakfast.     Row- 
till  sun-down,  when  I  set  the  watch.    Night  fine  and 
lild. 

SOth  April,  Wednesday.'-^By  day  light  found  our- 

elves  at  the  Portage  de  Sioux.     I  here  landed  captain 

Iany*s  two  men,  and  ordered  them  across  by  land  to  the 

itonment.     As  I  had  never  seen  the  village,  1  walked 

and  through  it ;  there  are  not  more  than  twenty-one 

In  steps,  andB)uses,  at  furthest^  which  are  built  of  square  logs.     Met 

with  acornsBut.  Hughes,  about  four  miles  above  St.  Louis  with  more 

In  their  nests,Ban  twenty  Osage  prisoners,  conveying  them  to  the  can- 

ioined,  v^thBiunent  on  the  Missouri ;  he  informed  me  my  friends 

i  four  cano^Bpre  all  well.     Arrived  about  12  o'clock  at  the  town, 

me  pidgeon3.»er  an  absence  of  eight  months  and  twenty  two  days. 


ior,towlucbl 
those  scoun-J 
instigation 


(Signed) 


Z.  M.  Pike,  Lieut. 


'  I  ';> 


o 


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Kriftij;-!  'Itj 


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!(:■ 


*~""""^  AUGUST. 


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1> 


PIKERS  EXPEDITION. 


PART  II. 


INSTRUCTIONS  TO  LIEUTENANT  PIKE. 


y  > 


St.  Loui»t  June  34M,  1806. 

|SlR, 

YOU  are  to  proceed  without  delay  to  the  cantonment  on  the 
lissouri,  where  you  are  to  embark  the  late  Osage  captives,  and  the 
deputation  recently  returned  from  Washington,  with  their  presents 
^nd  baggage,  and  are  to  transport  the  whole  up  the  Missouri  and 
)sage  rivers  to  the  town  of  the  Grand  Osage. 

The  safe  delivery  of  this  charge  at  the  point  of  destination, 

bonstitutes  the  primary  object  of  your  expedition,  and  therefore  you 

kre  to  move  with  such  caution  as  may  prevent  surprise  from  any 

)osdle  band,  and  are  to  repel  with  your  utmost  force  any  outrage 

vhich  may  be  attempted. 

Having  safely  deposited  your  passengers  and  their  property, 
ou  are  to  turn  your  attention  to  the  accomplishment  of  a  perma« 
|ent  peace  between  the  Kanses  and  Osage  nations,  for  which  pur- 
ose  you  must  effect  a  meeting  between  the  head  chiefs  of  those 
ations,  and  are  to  employ  such  arguments,  deduced  from  their  own 
bvious  interests,  as  well  as  the  inclinations,  desires,  and  commands 
the  president  of  the  United  States,  as  may  facilitate  your  purpose 
1(1  accomplish  the  end. 

A  third  object  of  considerable  magnitude  will  then  claim  your 
bnsideratibn.  It  is  to  effect  an  interview  and  establish  a  good  un" 
ptanding  with  the  Yanctons,  Tetaus,  or  Camanches. 


^H 


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! 

Ij;     :         ■  •! 

108 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAUK 


For  thi»  pyrpose  you  must  interest  White  Iluir,  of  the  Grand 
Osage,  with  whom  and  a  suitable  deputation  you  will  visit  the  Panis 
republic,  where  you  may  find  interpreters,  and  inform  yourself 
uf  the  most  feasible  plan,  by  which  to  bring  the  Camanches  to  a 
conference. — ShoukI  you  succeed  in  this  attempt  (and  no  pains 
must  be  spared  to  effect  it),  you  will  endeavor  to  make  peace  be- 
tween that  distant  powerful  nation,  and  the  nations  which  inhabit 
the  country  between  us  and  them,  particularly  the  Osage ;  and 
finally  you  will  endeavor  to  induce  eight  or  ten  of  their  distin- 
guished chiefs,  (o  make  a  visit  to  the  seat  of  government  next  Sep- 
tember, and  you  may  attach  to  this  deputation  four  or  five  Panis, 
and  the  same  numbct  of  Kanses  chiefs.  As  your  interview  with 
tl^e  Camanches  will  probably  lead  you  to  the  head  branches  of  i 
the  Arkansaw  and  Red  rivers,  you  may  find  yourself  approximated 
to  the  settlements  of  New  Mexico,  and  there  it  will  be  necessary 
you  should  move  with  great  circumspection,  to  keep  clear  pf  any 
hunting  or  reconnoitring  parties  from  that  province,  and  to  prevent] 
alarm  or  offence ;  because  the  affairs  of  Spain  and  the  United  States, 
appear  to  be  on  the  point  of  amicable  adjustment,  and  moreover  it  I 
is  the  desire  of  the  president*  to  cultivate  the  friendship  and  har<[ 
monious '  itercuurse  of  all  the  nations  of  the  earth,  and  partic«|laiiy| 
our  near  neighbours  the  Spaniards. 

In  the  course  of  your  tour,  you  are  to  remark  particularly  uponl 
the  geographical  structure,  the  natural  history  and  population  of  ihel 
country  through  which  yon  may  pasS)  taking  particular  care  to<;d[ 
lect  and  preserve  specimens  of  ercry  thing  curious  in  the  mincnll 
or  botanical  worlds,  |tvhich  can  be  preservecJ  and  are  portable.  Let| 
your  courses  be  regulated  by  your  compbss,  and  your  distances 
your  watcli)  to  be  noted  in  a  field-book^  and  I  would  advise  you  wti 
circumstances  permit,  to  protract  and  lay  down  in  a  sepu«te  1 
the  march  of  the  day  at  every  evening's  hah. 

The  inistruments,  which  I  have  furnished  you,  \irill  enisle  yo 
to  ascertain  the  variation  of  the  magnetic  needle  and  the  latitud 
with  exactitude  ;  and  at  every  remarkable  point,  I  wish  you  to  en 
plqy  your  telescope  in  observing  tlie  eclipses  of  Jupiter's  satelite 
haying  previously  regulated  and  adjiusted'your  watch  by  your  qu 
panty  taking  care  to  note  with  great  nicety  the  periods  of  immeruo 
and  emersions  of  the  eclipsed  satetites.    These  observations  i 
enable  us  after  your  return,  by  application  to  the  appi^opriate  table 
which  I  cajimot  now  furnish  yoU)  to  ascertain  the  longitude. 

It  is  an  object  of  much  iiHerest  with  the  executive,  to  ascertaij 
the  direction,  extent}  uid  navigation  of  the  Arkansaw  and  Red  rivei 


4; 


lie  Grand 
the  Pan'w 
:  yoarseU 
iches  to  a 
no  pains 
peace  be- 
tch  inhabit 
isage ;  and 
tieir  dislin- 
It  next  Sep- 
•  five  Pani'i 
crview  with 
branches  of 
pproxin\aU(l 
be  necessary 
>  clear  of  any  I 
rtd  to  prevent  I 
United  States,] 
,d  moreover  it 
Iship  and  hai-I 
nd  particxilavlyl 

r^cularly  nvH 
ipulation  ofti»»l 
liar  care  to<ol-l 
in  the  minenll 
^jrtable.  Le| 
XT  distances  1 
idviseyouvrh 
a  separate  ^" 


TO  THE  SOURCES  OF  THE  AUKANSAW,  &c.    lo9 

aft  fer,  therefore,  as  may  be  compatible  with  thest  instructions  and 
practicable  to  the  mears  you  may  command,  I  wish  you  to  carry 
your  views  to  those  sv.bjects,  and  should  circumstances  conspire  to 
I'avor  the  enterprise,  that  you  may  detach  a  party  with  a  few  Osa^e 
to  descend  the  Arkansaw  under  the  orders  of  hwutenant  Wilkinson, 
or  ser^ireant  Bullinger,  properly  instructed  and  equipped  to  take  the 
ccursts  and  distunces,  to  remark  on  the  soil,  timber,  &c.  &c.  and  to 
note  the  tributary  streams.  This  party  will,  after  reaching  our  post 
on  the  Arkunsaw,  descend  to  fort  Adams  and  there  wait  further 
orders ;  and  you  yourself  may  descend  the  Red  river  accompanied 
by  a  party  of  the  most  respectable  Camanchcs  to  the  post  of  NV 
chitoches,  and  there  receive  further  orders. 

To  disburse  your  necessaiy  expences  and  to  aid  your  negotia- 
tions, you  are  herewith  furnished  six  hundred  dollars  worth  of  goods, 
for  the  appropriation  of  which  you  are  to  render  a  strict  account) 
vouched  by  documents  to  be  attested  by  one  of  your  party. 

Wishing  you  a  safe  and  successful  expedition, 

I  am,  sir,  < 

With  much  respect  and  esteem, 
Your  obedient  servant, 
(Signed)  James  Wilkinson. 

Lieutenant  Z.  M.  Pike. 


ADDITIONAL  INSTRUCTIONS  TO  LIEUTENANT  PIKE. 

Cantonmentj  Missouri,  July  I2//t,  1806. 
|SiR, 

THE  health  of  the  Osages  being  now  generally  restored, 
land  all  hopes  of  the  speedy  recovery  of  their  prisoners,  from  the 
Ihands  of  the  Potowatomies,  being  at  an  end,  they  have  become  dc- 
Igirous  to  commence  their  journey  for  their  villages,  you  arc  there- 
lore  to  proceed  to-morrow. 

In  addition  to  the  instructions  given  you  on  the  24th  ultimo,  I 

nust  request  you  to  have  the  talks  under  cover  delivered  to  Whito 

lair  and  the  Grand  Peste,  the  chief  of  the  Osage  band,  which  is 

lettled  on  the  waters  of  the  Aikansaw,  together  with  the  belts  which 

Iccorapany  them.    You  will  also  receive  herewith  a  small  belt  for 

Ihe  Panis  and  a  large  one  for  the  Tetaus  or  Camanchcs. 


110 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE,  kc. 


Should  you  find  it  neceksai^,  you  are  to  give  orders  to  Mau- 
graine  the  resident  interpreter  at  the  Grand  Osuge  to  attend  you. 

I  beg  you  to  take  measures  for  the  security  and  safe  return  of 
your  boats  from  the  Grand  Osage  to  this  place. 

Doctor  Robinson  will  accompany  you  as  a  volunteer.  Ho  will 
be  furnished  medicines,  and  for  the  accommodations  which  you 
give  him,  he  is  bound  to  attend  your  sick. 

Should  you  discover  any  unlicensed  traders  in  your  route,  or 
any  person  from  this  territory,  or  from  the  United  States,  without  a 
proper  licence  or  passport,  you  are  to  arrest  such  person  or  persons 
and  dispose  of  their  property  as  the  law  directs. 

My  confidence  in  your  caution  and  discretion,  has  prevented 
my  urging  you  to  be  vigilant  in  guarding  against  the  stratagems  and 
treachery  of  the  Indians,  holding  yourself  above  alarm  or  surprise, 
the  composition  of  your  party,  though  it  be  small,  wili  secure  to  you 
the  respect  of  an  host  of  untutored  savages. 

You  are  to  communicate  from  the  Grand  Osage  and  from  erery 
other  practicable  point,  directly  to  the  secretary  of  war,  transmitMng 
your  letters  to  this  place  under  cover,  to  the  commanding  ofii<?<ii.  or 
by  any  more  convenient  route.  i 

I  wish  you  health  and  a  successful  and  honorable  enterprise, 
and  am, 

Yours  with  friendship, 
(Signed)  James  Wilkinson. 

Lieutenant  Z  M.  Pike, 


.r<T  " 


PIKE'S  EXPEDITION. 


PART  II. 


DIARY  OF  AN  E3tPEDITI0N  MADE  UNDER  THE  ORDERS 
OF  THE  WAR  DEPARTMENT,  BY  CAPTAIN  Z.  M.  PIKE, 
IN  THE  YEARS  1806  AND  1807,  TO  EXPLORE  THE 
INTERNAL  PARTS  OF  LOUISIANA. 

13th  July^    I806j.  Tuesday, — ^We   sailed  from  the 

landing  at  Belle  Fontaine,  about  S  o'clock  P.  M.  in  two 

[boats.     Our  party  consisted  of  two  lieutenants,  one  sur- 

Igeon,  one  Serjeant,  two  corporals,  sixteen  privates,  and 

[one  interpreter.     We  had  also  under  our  charge,  chiefs 

)f  the  Osage  and  Pawnees,  who,  with  a  number  of  wo- 

len  and  children,  had  been  to  Washington.     These  In- 

lians  had  been  redeemed  from  captivity-  among  the  ;  Poto- 

i^atomies,  and  were  now  to  be  returned  to  their  friends, 

^t  the  Osage  towns.     The  whole  number  of  Indians 

[mounted  to  fifty  one. 

We  ascended  the  river  about  six  miles,  and  encamps 

on  the  south  side  behind  an  island.     This  day  my  boat 

mng  round  twice }  once  when  we  had  a  tow  rope  on 

lore,  which  it  snaped  off  i$  an  instant.     The  Indians 

fd  not  encamp  with  us  at  night.     Distance  6  miles. 

16th  July,  Wednesday, -^We  rejoined  our  red  breth- 
kn  at  breakfast,  after  which  we  again  seperated,  and  with 
pry  severe  labor  arrived  late  in  the  evening  opposite  to 
|e  village  of  St.  Charles,  where  the  Indians  joined  u$. 
listance  15  miles. 


!• 


h!  ,  ii. 


I      ! 


ll      !!^ 


* 

JOUUNAI.  Of  A  VOVAOU 
"^  J        -ur.  rrosscd    the  river  to 

•  n/A  M.  ^'-"''^'^-rh^  l^rived  from  S,. 
,,am  if  any  '<"»""""""7Jrof  other  Indian  ene- 
Louis,  and  if  there  v,a.  a^y  n  v;s^^    ^^^^  , 

mies  of  the  Osages.     CiUleU  ^^^^  j^^  , 

and  was  introduced  to  a  ^"•-  »^"7.  \^      fee  a  Uttle 
about  eight  and  twenty  Y^"  ~,!\  ,i,hed  to  go  with 
Spanish,  and  !?'«»* 'f-^^UrL  I  wrote  letters  back 
.n'e  as  a  volunteer.    ^™- ^^£  «erc  crossing  the 
,„  Belle  Fontaine    wnds^  *    Ind  ^^^^^  ,„  ^ 

river.*    A  man  by  the  name  oi  '        ^^^^  ^  tk 

;:dians  that  500  S-^oXg"- rt.rcon;iderable  u. 
mouth  of  Big  Mamton.    1  h^  g  ^^^  j^p,^ 

easiness  and  it  took  me  son^^  «™«  »  ^  ^  J  ^eUeved  i. 
sJon  it  made  upon  them ;  tor  i    '  ^,  arrested 

We  were  about  saiUng  »!;»  ^^^^  Liza,  for  a  ml 
ty  the  sheriff,  at  the  =""  °^  JaoLs,  and  was  obUged 
bitween  three  and  four  ^J^J^^.^  ^^ssary  for  ^^\ 
,„  return  to  St.  Lou.^Th's'™^,     We  encamped^- 
write  another  letter  to  the  g 
.hree-fourths  of  anule  '''^v^^hejmag   ^^.^^^  ^ 

1«A  July,  ^"''"^/'TTracrossthe  country  to  thtl 
.      Robinson  went  with  the  in^ac.^,.  J 

vilUge  La  Charette.    ^-^^'^       Wrote  to  the  gen  J 

Zi  to  accompany  me  ""  ■^^„^";- ,„^gement^t  M 
raUandenclosedh^m-eomenn^^^^ 

„c  had  made  our  httle  ff"S«"r.,y„  twelve  o'clock! 

5,ed  the  boats  ("^f^''  ^tT  t^J^^ne  boat  and  ^ 

.         ^vo  of  the  ™«" '^•"S  f^,ln^  were  emlbled  to  k J 

H^nry  the  other,  by  *1>«=^  JfTof  „ars.  although  we  A 

eSyed  our  f-» --f  ^p^'  o;  the  north  si^ 

.  ,he  sick  men  on  shore.     Mc     ^  j„„3  ,hund^ 

About  eleven  rfflock  at  mght         ^^  ^^^^  ^  1 


rcr  to 
m   St. 
n  ene- 
frison's 
Jersey), 

a  little 

go  with 
ers  back 
ssing  the 
ed  to  the 
ere  at  the 
erable  un- 
tie  impres- 
believed  it 
as  arrested 
,fora^^, 
was  obUged' 

stuped  «boutl 

on  ajwi  I^r-' 
auntrytothel 

gaged,  under 
e  to  the  gene. 
QentB.t  A^n 
rchedbyM 
welve  o*cW 
boat  and  Mr| 
.ndblfidtokeq 
though  >»'ep« 
he  north  side 
ixdous  thuiw*' 


1\)  I'llh  SOURCES  OF  THE  ARKANSAW,  kc.     113 

storm  arose,  and  it  contlnuoJ  to  blow  and  rain,  with  thun- 
der and  lightning,  until  Aiy.     Distance  15  miles. 

\9th  July,  Saturday.—  >ii  consequence  of  the  rain,  we 
did  not  put  off  until  past  nine  o'clock  j  my  sick  men  march- 
ed. 1  had  some  reason  to  suspect,  that  one  of  them  intended 
never  joining  us  again.  Vt  dinner  time  the  sick  man  of 
my  own  boat  came  on  board  ;  I  then  went  on  board  the 
other,  and  we  continued  to  run  races  all  day,  and  although 
this  boat  had  hitherto  kept  behind  ;  yet  I  arrived  at  the  en- 
camping ground  with  her,  nearly  half  an  hour  before  the 
other.  The  current  not  generally  so  strong  -as  below. 
Distance  14  miles. 

20tb  Julyy  Sunday. — ^Embarked  about  sun-rise. 
Wishing  to  ascertain  the  temperature  of  the  water,  I  dis- 
covered my  large  thermometer  to  be  missing,  which  pro- 
bably had  fallen  into  the  river.  Passed  one  settlement  on 
the  nonh  side,  and,  after  turning  the  point  to  the  south, 
w  two  more  houses  on  the  south  side.  We  encamped 
n  a  long  reach,  which  bore  north  and  west.  The  ab- 
entees  had  not  yet  joined  us.     Distance  15  miles. 

^\st  July,  Monday, — ^It  commenced  raining  near  day, 
nd  continued  until  4  o'clock  in  the  afternoon :  the  rain 
as  immensely  heavy,  with  thunder  and  lightning  remark* 
ibly  severe.  This  obliged  me  to  lay  by ;  for,  if  we  pro- 
leeded  with  our  boats,  it  necessarily  exposed  our  baggage 
uch  more  than  when  at  rest ;  for  the  tarpauling  could 
en  cover  all.  We  set  sail  at  a  quarter  past  four  o'clock, 
d  arrived  at  the  village  La  Charette  a  little  after  the  dusk 
|f  the  evening,  here  we  foun^f*  lieutenant  Wilkinson  and 
r.  Robinson  with  the  Indians — ^also,  Baroney  (our  inter- 
ter)  with  letters  from  the  general  and  our  friends.  The 
eather  still  continued  cloudy,  with  rain.  We  were  re- 
ived into  the  house  of  a  Mr.  Chartron,  and  every  ac- 
mmodation  in  his  power  offered  us.     Distance  6  miles. 

p 


.*   ,i 


S    t  : 


lU 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE 


;f 


i: 


I 


'!     ■-!■;! 


";,        :'       :      (j 


:f  ■•'' 


22^  Juiyt  Tuesday,-— We  arranged  our  boats,  dried 
our  loading,  and  wrote  letters  for  Belle  Fontaine. 

23d  July,  Wedntsday.-^l  dispatched  an  express  to 
the  general,  with  advertisements  relative  to  Kennerman, 
the  soldier  who  had  deserted.*  We  embarked  after 
breakfast,  and  made  good  progress :  lieutenant  Wilkinson 
steered  one  boat  and  I  the  other,  in  order  to  detach  all  the 
men  on  shore,  with  the  Indians,  that  we  could  spare.  We 
crossed  to  the  south  side,  a  little  below  Shepherd  river. 
Dr.  Robinson  killed  a  deer,  which  was  the  first  killed  by 
^l)e  party. ,  Distance  1 3  miles. 

24fth  July,  Thursday, — ^We  embarked  at  half  past  6 
0 'clock.     Very  foggy.     The  Indians  accompanied  by  only  i 
three  of  my  people.     Lieutenant  Wilkinson  being  a  little 
indisposed,  I  was  obliged  to  let  Baroney  steer  his  boat 
We  made  an  excellent  day's  journey,  and  encamped  fivel 
miles  from  the  Gasconade  river.     Killed  three  deer,  one  I 
bear,  and  three  turkies.     But  three  or  four  of  the  Indiansl 
amved .;  the  others  encamped   a  small  distance  belov.l 
Distance  18  miles. 

%5th  July,  Friday.'—We  embarkeSd  at  half  past  i\ 
o'clock,  and  arrived  at  the  entrance  of  the  Gasconade  rival 
half  past  eight  o'clock,  at  which  place  I  determined  to  re-l 
main  the  day,  as  my  Indians  and  foot  people  were  yet  in  thel 
rear,  and  they  had  complained  to  me  of  being  withoutl 
shoes,  leggins,  &c.  One  of  our  Pawnees  did  not  arrivel 
until  late ;  the  other  had  communicated  his  suspicion  tol 
me  that  the  Oto,  who  was  in  company,  had  killed  hiinl 
he  acknowledged  that  he  p^posed  to  him  to  take  out  theiil 
ba^age,  and  return  to  St.  Louis.  The  real  occasion 
his  absence,  however,  was  his  having  followed  a  large  fre^ 
trace  up  the  Gasconade  a  considerable  distance ;  but  find 
ing  it ' . '  from  the  Missouri,  he  examined  it  and  discove 

•  Sec  appendix  to  part  II.  [No.  5.]  page  33.  and  [No.  6.]  p  gc  36. 


!l'    :'        !i.; 


TO  THE  SOURCES  OF  THE  ARKANSAW,  &c.     Hi 


xpress  to 
jnnerman, 
rked  after 

tach  all  the 
ipare.  ^^ 
)herd  river. 
St  killed  by 

half  paste 
niedbyonlyl 
being  a  little 
jer  his  boat.! 
ncainpe4  ^A 
fee  deer,  onel 
jf  the  Irvdmi 
itance  belov.j 


.6.3Pg«3<>- 


horses  to  have  been  on  it,  he  then  left  it,  joined  our*s,  and 
came  in.  This  being  generally  the  route  taken  by  the  Poto- 
watomies,  when  they  go  to  war  against  the  Osage,  it  occa^ 
sioned  some  alarm.     Every  morning  we  were  awoke  by 
the  mourning  of  the  savages,  who  commenced  crying 
about  daylight,  and  continued  for  the  space  of  an  hour. 
I  made  enquiry  of  my  interpreter  with  respect  to  this,  who 
informed  me  that  this  was  a  custom  not  only  with  those 
who  had  recently  lost  their  '•elatives,  but  also  with  others 
who  recalled  to  mind  the  loss  of  some  friend,  dead  long 
since,  and  joined  the  other  mourners  purely  from  sym- 
pathy.    They  appeared  extremely  affected,  tears  ran  down 
I  their  cheeks,  ^md  they  sobbed  bitterly ;  but  in  a  moment 
1  they  dry  their  cheeks  and  they  cease  their  cries.     Their 
songs  of  grief  generally  run  thus :  *♦  My  dear  fether  ex- 
lists  no  longer :  have  pity  on  me,  O  Great  Spirit !  you 
[see  I  cry  forever ;  dry  my  tears  and  give  me  comfort." 
[The  warriors  songs  are  thus :  **  Our  enemies  have  slain 
ly  father  (or  mother) ;  he  is  lost  to  me  and  his  family  ; 
pray  to  you,  O  Master  of  Life  !  to  preserve  me  until  I 
svenge  his  death,  and  then  do  with  me  as  thou  pleaseth." 
)istance  5  miles. 

26th  Jufyf  Saturday. '-^VJe  commenced  at  5  o'clock 

|o  ferry  the  Indians  over  the  Gasconade,  and  left  the  eR' 

mce  of  this  river  half  past  6  o'clock  in  the  afternoon. 

let  five  Frenchmen,  who  informed  us  that  they  had  just 

eft  the  Osage  river,  and  that  it  was  so  low  they  could  not 

:end  it  with  their  canoe.     We  wrote  letters,  and  sent 

liem  back  by  them.*     Dr.  Robinson,  *  ^roney,  Sparks, 

3d  all  the  Indians  encamped  about  one  league  above  us. 

piled  one  bear,  two  deer,  one  otter,  three  turkies,  and  one 

koon.    Distance  15  miles. 

*  See  appendix  to  part  n.  [Nto.  7.]  page  li. 


\  i 


w 


m. 


r: 


Hi 


•11.  i.; 


m 


li    ! 


ii'to.  1 


I'i    ii  • .  i       '.111 


i  I 

:  I  I! 


ii:| 

'■'fi  in 


wm 


k"\\ 


:   I 


116 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE 


Q*7ih  July,  Sunday.'-^We  embarked  at  half  past  five 
o'clock,  and  arrived  at  the  Indians*  camp  at  7  o'clock. 
They  had  been  alarmed  the  day  before,  and  in  the  ever- 
ing  sent  men  back  in  the  trace,  and  some  of  the  chiefs  sat 
up  all  night.  Breakfasted  with  them.  About  half  past 
three  o'clock  encamped  in  sight  of  the  Osage  river.  There 
being  every  appearance  of  rain,  we  halted  thus  early  in 
order  to  give  the  Indians  time  to  prepare  temporary  camps 
and  to  secure  our  baggage.  I  went  out  to  hunt,  and  firing 
at  a  deer,  near  two  of  the  Indians  who  were  in  the  woods, 
they  knew  the  difference  of  the  report  of  my  rifle  from 
their  guns,  were  alarmed,  and  immediately  retired  to  camp. 
Distance  13  miles. 

2Sth  July,  Monday. — Embarked  at  half  past  51 
o'clock,  and  at  half  past  10  arrived  in  the  Osage  river, 
where  we  stopped,  discharged  our  guns,  bathed,  &c.  We 
then  proceeded  on  about  six  ^liles,  where  we  waited  fori 
and  crossed  the  Indians  to  the  west  shore,  and  then  pro! 
ceeded  on  to  the  first  island  and  encamped  on  the  westl 
side.  Sans  Oreille,  and  four  or  five  young  men  onlyj 
coming  up,  the  rest  encamping  some  distance  behind! 
Killed  one  deer  and  one  turkey.    Distance  19  miles. 

29//&  July,  Tuesday. — All  the  Indians  arrived  verjl 
early  and  the  Big  Soldier,  whom  I  had  appointed  the  ofj 
ficer  to  regulate  the  march,  was  much  displeased  that  Sa 
Oreille  and  the  others  had  left  him,  and  said  for  that  re^l 
son  he  would  not  suffer  any  woman  to  gq  in  the  boat,  anij 
by  that  means  separate  the  party ;  but  in  truth  it  was  fi'on 
jealousy  of  tfie  men  whose  jvomen  went  in  the  boats.   HJ 
began  by  flogging  one  of  the  young  men  and  was  about  I 
strike  Sans  Oreille's  wife,  but  was  stopped  by  him 
told  that  he  knew  he  had  done  wrong,  but  that  the  wome 
were  innocent.     We  then  crossed  them  and  embarked  J 
half  past  eight  o'clock.     About  twelve  o'clock  we  foun 


ist  five 
'clock, 
e  ever- 
liefs  sat 
alf  past 
■.  There 
early  in 
ry  catnps 
ind  firing 
^e  woods, 
rifte  from 
d  to  camp. 


TO  THE  SOURCES  OF  THE  ARKANSAW,  &c.    1  lY 

the  Indians  rafting  the  river,  when  the  first  chief  of  the 
Little  Osage,  called  Tuttasuggy  (or  the  Wind),  told  me 
that  the  man  whom  the  Big  Soldier  struck  had  not  yet  ar- 
rived with  his  wife,  "  but  that  he  would  throw  them  away." 
As  I  knew  he  was  extremely  mortified  at  the  dissensions 
which  appeared  to  reign  amongst  them,  I  told  him  by  no 
means,-— that  one  of  my  boats  should  wait  for  the  woman 
and  her  child,  but  that  the  man  might  go  to  the  devil,  as  a 
punishment  for  his  insubordination. 

I  then  left  Baroney  with  one  boat,  and  proceeded  with 
the  other.     We  were   called  ashore  by  three  young  In- 
dians, who  had  killed  some  deer,  and,  on  pJhtting  thtiii 
on  board,  gave  them  about  one  or  two  gills  of  whiskey, 
iwhich  intoxicated   all  of  them.     It  commenced  raining 
bout  one  o'clock,  and  continued  incessantly  for  three 
ours,  which  obliged  us  to  stop  and  encamp.  One  of  our 
en  (Miller)  lost  himself,  and  did  not  arrive  until  after 
ark.    Killed  five  deer,  one  turkey,  and  one  racoon.    DIs- 
ce  14  miles. 
30tb  July,  Wednesday. — After  the  fog  dispersed  I  left 
eutenant  Wilkinson  with  the  party  to  dry  the  baggage, 
id  I  went  with  Dr.  Robinson  and  Bradley.     About  two 
'clock  we  returned,  set  sail,  and  having  passed  the  first 
pid  about  three  miles,  encamped  on  the  eastern  shore, 
illed  three  deer.    Distance  5  miles. 

3\st  July,   Thursday. — We  embarked  early,   and 
ised  several  rapids  pretty  well.    Dined  with  the  Indians, 
wo  of  them  left  us  in  the  morning  for  the  village,  and 
ley  all  had  an  idea  of  doing  the  same,  but  finally  con- 
uded  otherwise.     One  of  the  Osage,  who  had  left  the 
y  for  the  village,  returned  and  reported  that  he  had 
n  and  heard  strange  Indians  in  the  woods.     This  wc 
d  embarked •nsidered  as  merely  a  pretext  to  come  back,     I  tliis  day 
lock  we  founwt  my  dog,  and  the  misfortune  was  the  greater,  as  we  had 


1  1 


,i  i. 


n  . 


Si 


'i    U  • 


ti 


1i 


S 


J-    ■  H--iK.J!*, 


118 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE 


I  i 


h 


no  other  dog  vho  would  1)ring  any  thing  out  of  the  water : 
this  was  the  dog  Fisher  presented  to  me  at  Prairie  des 
Chiens.  Killed  three  deer  and  one  turkey.  Distance  18 
miles.  ^ 

1st  August,  Friday. — It  having  rained  all  night,  the 
river  appeared  to  have  risen  about  six  inches.  We  spread 
out  our  baggage  to  dry,  but  it  continuing  to  rain,  by  inter^ 
vals,  all  day,  the  things  were  wetter  at  sun-down  than  in 
the  morning.  We  rolled  them  up,  and  left  them  on  the 
beach.  We  sent  out  two  hunters  in  the  morning,  one  of  j 
whom  killed  three  deer ;  all  the  Indians  killed  three  more 
— ^Total,  six. 

2d  August,  Saturday. — ^The  weather  cleared  up.  The! 
loading  being  spread  out  to  dry,  Dr.  Robinson,  myself,! 
Bradley,  Sparks,  and  Brown  went  out  to  hunt.  We 
killed  four  deer ;  the  Indians  two.  Having  reloaded  thel 
boats,  we  embarked  at  five  o'clock,  and  came  about  two! 
miles.  The  river  rose,  in  the  last  twenty-four  hours,  four! 
inches. 

3d  August,  Sunday^ — Embarked  early,  and  wishinj| 
to  save  the  fresh,  I  pushed  hard  all  day.    Sparks  was 
and  did  not  arrive  until  night.    We  encamped  about 
paces  from  the  river,  on  a  sand-bar.    Near  day  I  he 
the  sentry  observe  that  the  boats  had  better  be  brought  i 
when  I  got  up  and  found  the  water  within  a  rod  of  ou 
tent,  and  before  we  could  get  all  our  things  out  it 
reached  the  tent.     Killed  nine  deer,  one  wild  cat,  on 
goose,  and  one  turkey.    Distance  18  miles. 

4/A  August,  Monday. — ^We  embarked  early  and  cob 
tinned  on  for  some  time,  not  being  able  to  find  a  suitab 
place  to  dry  our  things,  but  at  length  stopped  on  the  ( 
shore.  Here  we  had  to  feri'y  the  Indians  over  a  sma 
channel  which  we  did  not  before  observe ;  all  of  then 
however,  not  arriving,  we  put  off  and  continued  our  roatftot  o'clocj 


water: 
jirie  des 
:ance  18 

ight,  the  ' 
re  spread 
by  inter- 
fn  than  in 
ira.  on  the 
ng,  one  of 
three  more 

edup.  Ttiel 

ion,  myseiJ.1 

hunt.  >^e| 
reloaded  the! 
te  about  twi 
f  hours,  foul 

and  wishinjl 

irks  was 
about 

ir  day  I  ^' 
brought* 

a  rod  of  oi 

igs  out  it 

I  wild  cat, 


I  early  and 
find  a  suitabl 
[pedonthe 
over  a  siw 
.  all  of  the! 
lued  our  rofii 


TO  THE  SOURCES  OF  THE  ARKANSAW,  kc.     119 

Finding  our  progress  much  impeded  by  our  mast  I  un> 
shipped  it  and  stripped  it  of  its  iron,  and,  after  lieutenant 
Wilkinson  had  carved  our  names  on  it,  set  it  adrift,  fol- 
lowed by  the  yards.  This  mast  had  been  cut  and  made 
at  Pine  creek.  Upper  Mississippi.  After  proceeding  some 
miles,  we  found  the  Indians  on  the  west  shore,  they  hav- 
ing rafted  the  river.  We  stopped  for  them  to  cook,  after 
which  we  proceeded  on.  The  navigation  had  become  very 
difficult  from  the  rapidity  of  the  current,  occasioned  by  the 
rise  of  the  water,  which  rose  one  foot  in  an  hour.  Killed 
two  deer.     Distance  10  miles.     Rainy. 

5th  August,  Tuesday. — ^We  lay  by  this  day,  in  order 

to  give  the  Indians  an  opportunity  to  dry  their  baggage. 

Dr.  Robinson  and  myself,  accompanied  by  Mr.  Henry, 

went  out  to  hunt ;  we  bst  the  latter  about  two  miles  from 

After  hunting  some  time  on  the  west  shore,  we 

oncluded  to  raft  the  river,  which  we  effected  with  difli- 

ulty  and  danger,  and  hunted  for  some  time,  but  without 

uccess.     We  then  returned  to  the  party  and  found  Mr. 

enry,  who  had  been  lost,  had  arrived  one  hour  before 

he  had  met  one  of  the  soldiers,  who  brought  him  in. 

onday  in  our  tour  I  passed  over  a  remarkably  large  rattle- 

:e,  as  he  lay  curled  up,  and  trod  so  near  him  as  to 

uch  him  with  my  foot,  he  drawing  himself  up  to  make 

om  for  my  heel. 

Dr.  Robinson,  who  followed  me,  was  on  the  point  of 

g  on  him,  but  by  a  spring  avoided  it.    I  then  turned 

und  and  touched  him  with  my  ram-rod,  but  he  shewed 

disposition  to  bite,  and  appeared  quite  peaceable.   The 

titude  which  I  felt  towards  him  for  not  having  bit  me 

uced  me  to  save  his  life.    Killed  four  deer.    River  rises 

een  inches.     Rain  continues. 

€l6  August,  Wednesday. — We  embarked  at  half  past 

;ht  o'clock,  it  having  cleared  off  and  had  the  appear- 


ill  1^ 


H  I; 


^1  1  :    ■  ■ 


'    i 


■J 


!      ! 


'  I  ' 


.  '11 


•u 


m} 


n 


-■  ■    -\ 

■  f 

J 

" 

1    ■     '. 

'•. 

iMM 


mm 


r  i' 


■\.    ,1 


''I 


II-     ^  !■ 


1 


"li 


ft  i\. 


^lii' 


I   :|| 


nil 


130 


JOURNAL  or  A  VOYA«E 


ance  of  a  fine  day.  Passed  Gravel  river  on  the  west. 
About  three  miles  above  this  river  the  Indians  left  us  and 
informed  me,  by  keeping  a  little  to  the  south  and  west, 
they  would  make  in  J  5  miles  what  would  be  at  least  35 
miles  for  us.  Dr.  Robinson,  Mr.  Henry,  and  serjeant 
Ballenger  accompanied  them.  Killed  two  deer.  Distance 
13  miles. 

Ith  August,  Thursday. — ^Not  being  detained  by  the 
Indians,  we  ^x^for  once  enabled  to  embark  at  a  quarter  past 
five  o'clock.  The  river  having  fell,  since  yesterday  morn- 
ing, about  four  feet,  we  wish  to  improve  every  moment  of 
time  previous  to  its  entire  fall.  We  proceeded  extremely 
well,  passed  the  Saline  river  on  the  east,  and  encamped 
opposite  La  Belle  Roche  on  the  west  shore.  This  daywi 
passed  many  beautiful  cliffs'on  both  sides  of  the  river,  savj 
a  bear  and  wolf  swimming  the  river.  I  employed  mj 
part  of  the  day  in  translating  into  French  a  talk  of  gene-j 
ral  Wilkinson'  to  the  Cheveux  Blanche.  Distance  21| 
miles. 

8//j  August,  Friday, — ^We  embarked  iO  minutes 
five  o'clock.     Found  the  river  had  fallen  about  two  fa 
during  the  night.     At  the  confluence  of  the  Youngar  witi 
the  Osage  river  we  breakfasted.     Encamped  at  night  on  i 
bar.     Distance  2 1  miles.  aa  ti:;- 

9th  August,  Saturday, — ^We  embarked  at  fiv^bVlbcl; 
and  at  half  past  six  o'clock  met  the  Indians  and  our  ge 
tlemen.  I'hey  had  met  with  nothing  extraordinary.  Thci 
had  killed  in  their  excursion  seven  deer-  and  three 
We  proceeded  to  an  old  wintering  ground,  where  the 
-were  eight  houses,  which  were  occfupied  last  winter  1 

I        — ,  who  had  not  been  able  to  proceed  any  higi 

for  want  of  water.  Passed  the  Old  Man's  Rapids,  belo 
which,  on  the  west  shore,  are  some  beaiitiful  cliflfs.'  Din 
>vith  the  Indians,  after  which  we  passed  Upper  Gratl 


rdinary. 
[nd  three 
|d,  where  tb< 

lastwinter 
teed  any  higl 

Rapids,  bell 

Upper  Gra' 


TO  THE  SOURCES  OF  THE  ARKANSAW,  &c.     121 

river  on  the  west,  Pottoe  river  on  the  east.  Sparks  went 
out  to  hunt,  and  did  not  arrive  at  our  encampment,  nor 
did  the  Indians.    Distance  25  niles. ' 

lOtb  August i  Sunday.^-Emhzrked  a  quarter  past  five 
o'clock,  when  the  sun  shone  out  very  clearly ;  but  in  fif- 
teen minutes  it  began  to  rain,  and  continued  to  rain  very 
hard  until  one  o'clock.  Passed  the  Indians,  who  were  en- 
camped on  the  west  shore,  about  half  a  mile,  and  halted 
for  them.  They  all  forded  the  river  but  Sans  OrdUe, 
who  In-ought  his  wife  up  to  the  beats,  and  informed  me 
that  Sparks  had  encamped  with  them,  but  left  them  early 
to  return  hi  search  t)f  us.  We  proceeded  afi:er  breakfast. 
Sparks  arrived  just  at  the  moment  we  were  embarking. 
The  Indians  traversing  the  country  on  the  east  had  sent 
Sparks  with  Sans  Oreille.  About  two  o'clock  A.  M. 
split  a  piaak  in  the  bottom  of  the  batteaux.  Unloaded  and 
turned  her  up,  repaired  the  breach,  ahd  continued  on.  the 
route :  by  four  o'clock  found  the  Indians  behind  a  large 
island :  We  made  no  stop,  and  they  followed  us.  We  en^^ 
amped  together  on  a  bar,  where  we  pi^oposed  halting  to 
our  com,  &c.  on  Monday.  Killed  four  deer.  Dis- 
ice  18  1-2  miles.  » 

11th  August,  Mo«^<2y.r-We  continued  here  to  dry 
ur  com  and  baggage.    This  morning  we  had  a  match 
t  shooting :  the  prize  offered  to  the  successful  person 
as  a  jacket  and  a  twist  of  tobacco,  which  I  myself 
as  so  fortunate  as  to  win^  I  made  the  articles,  however, 
present  to  the  young  fellow  who  waited  on  me.    Afte?* 
is,  takii:g  Huddleson  with  me,  I  went  out  to  hunt :  after 
ivelling  ai)out  twelve  miles  we  arrived  at  the  river,  al- 
st  exhausted  with  thirst.    I  here  indulged  myself  by 
inking  plentifully  of  the  water,  and  was  rendered  so  ex- 
emely  imwell  by  it,  that  I  was  scarce  capable  of  pursuing 
y  route  to  the  camp.  On  arriving  opposite  it,  I  swam  the 

Q 


3  '<■ 


t;   5;. 


•' 


\(\ 


11 


J 


i.. 


:i  iiir: 


(M>i 


if    II 


V  'm 


Sir'  i 


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II 


tax 


JdURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE 


river,  frcaci  which  I  experienced  considerablv  relief.  The 
party  mformed  me  dney  had  found  the  heat  very  oppress 
S  sive,  and  the  mercury,  at  sun-down,  was  ^125"  Reaumer. 
This  day,  for  the  first  time,  I  saw  trout  west  of  the  Alle- 
gfaeny  mountains.  Reloaded  our  boats,  and  finished  two 
new  oars,  which  were  requisite. 

12tfo  August,  Tuesday.^— Frey'ioMsly  to  our  embarlo. 
iSon,  which  took  place  at  half  past  five  o'clock,  I  was 
obliged  to  convince  my  red  brethren  that,  if  I  protected 
dieni,  I  would  not  suffer  them  to  plunder  my  men  with 
impunity,  for  the  chief  had  got  one  of  my  lads'  tin  cups 
attached  to  his  baggage,  and  notwithsiandilfg  it  was 
marked  with  die  inidals  of  the  soldier's  name,  he  refused 
to  give  it  u|).  On  which  I  requested  the  interpreter  to  tell  j 
him,  *'  that  I  had  no  idea  that  he  had  purloined  the  cup,] 
but  supposed  some  othier  person  had  attached  it  to*his  l^ag- 
ga^e;  biitthat,  knowing  it  to  be  my  soldier's,  I  requested  I 
him  to  deliver  it  up,  or  I  should  be  obliged  to  take  other 
measures  to  obtain  it."  This  had  the  desired  effect ;  fori 
I  certaxitiy  should  hav6  put  my  threats  into  execution  froml 
this  principle,  formed  from  my  experience  during  my  inj 
course  with  Indians,  that  if  you  have  justice  m  your  sidiX 
and  do  not  enforce  it,  they  universally  despise  you,  Whenl 
we  stopped  for  dinner,  one  of  my  men  took  his  gun  and! 
went  out  J  not  having  returned  when  we  were  ready  toj 
r<s*embark,  I  \ek  him.  Passed  the  Indians  twice  whe 
they  were  crossing  the  river.  Passed  some  very  beautif 
clifls  on  the  west  shore ;  also  Vermillion  and  Grand 

v^rs,  the  latter  of  which  is  a  large  stream,  and  encamp 

at  the    ' 

Immediately  after  our  encampment  a  thunder  stor 
came  on,  which  blew  overboard  my  flag-staff  and  a  nun 
ber  of  articles  of  my  clothing,  which  were  on  top 
the  cabbio,  and  sunk  them  immediately.     Being  muclj 


'  See  apJ 


TO  THK  SOURCES  OF  THE  ARKANSAW,  kc.    125 


£itigued,  and  the  bank  difficult  of  ascent,  lay  down  in  the 
cabin,  without  supper  and  sl^t  all  night.  It  continued  to 
rain.  The  man  I  left  on  shore  arrived  on  the  opposite 
bank  in  the  night,  having  killed  two' deer ;  but  was  obliged 
to  leave  the  largest  behind,  finding  hf  'as  not  to  be  sent 
for,  he  concealed  his  gunimd  deer,  and  swam  the  river. 
Distance  24  miles. 

IStb  JuguitiWednesday,F-^lt  c(mtiRuedio  mn.  I« 
die  morning  sent  .a  boat  over  for  ,Sparks's  gun  and  deec 
Embarked  at  half  past  9  o'clock.  i>topped  to  dine  at  two 
o'^iock.  During  the  time  we  halted,  the  river  rose  over 
the  flat  bar,  on  which  we  were.:  this,  if  we  had  no  other 
proof,  would  convince  us  we  were  near  the  head  of  the 
river,  as  the  I'ain  must  have  reached  it.  We  made  almost 
a  perfect  circle,  so  that  I  do  not  believe  we  were,  at  night, 
three  miles  from  where  we  encamped  last  night.  This 
day,  for  the  first  time,  we  have  prairie  hills.  Distance  13 
miles. 

I4fth  August,  Thursday, — Embarked  at  half  past  five 
o'clock.  Passed  the  Park,  which  is  ten  miles  rounds  and 
I  not  more  than  three  quarters  of  a  mile  across,  bearing  from 
j  S.  5°  E.  to  due  N.  At  its  head  we  breakfasted,  and  just 
as  we  were  about  to  put  off  we  saw  and  brought  to  a  canoe 
manned  with  three  engagees  of  Mr.  .-   ,  who  in- 

[formed  us  that  the  Little  Osage;  had  marched  a  war  party 
[against  the  Kans,  and  the  Grand  Osagc^a  party  against  our 
[citizens  on  the  Arkansaw  river.  Wrotti  by  them  to  the 
[general'*  and  ail  friends*  Gave  the  poor  fellows  soiiie 
|whiskey  and  eight  quarts  of  corii,  they  having  had  only 
iro  turkies  for  four  days.  We  left  them  and  proceeded, 
passing  onour  east  some  of  the  largest  cedars  I  ever  sawf. 
^ame  on  very  well  in  the  afternoon,  and  encamped  on  an 
jLsland  above  Turkey  island.    Distance  28  miles* 

•  See  appendix  to  part  II;  [No.  8.]  page  37. 


1 .  n 


'!    !■; 


'  » 


A-:       i         '  J 


>•  \- 


Ki 


; 


\i 


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'  iiJ 


I 


' 


J 


}■'  u 


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If 


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■    1' 


I  I! 


f. 


;if 


t34 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE 


IStb  August f  Friday, — ^We  embarked  at  five  o'clock, 
and  at  eight  o'clock  met  the  Indians  and  the  gentlemen 
who  accompanied  them.  Found  all  well.  They  had  been 
joined  by  their  friends  and  relatives  from  the  village,  with 
horses  to  transport  their  baggage.  Lieutenant  Wilkinson 
informed'me  that  their  meeting  was  very  tender  and  aflfec- 
tionate — ^**  Wives  throwing  themselves  into  the  arms  of 
their  husbasds,  parents  embracing  their  children,  and  chil- 
dren their  parents,  brothers  and  sisters  meeting,  one  from 
captivity,  the  others  fronk  the  towns— they,  at  the  same 
time,  returning  thanks  to  the  Go0^  Go^  for  having  brought 
them  once  more  together ;"  in  short,  the  toute  ensemblt 
was  such  as  to  make  polished  society  blush,  when  com-  j 
pared  with  those  savages,  in  whom  the  passions  of  the  mind, 
either  joy,  grief,  fear,  anger,  or  revenge,  have  their  full 
scope:  why  can  we  not  correct  the  baneful  passions,  withbut 
weakening  the  good  ?  Sans  Oreille  made  them  a  speech, 
in  which  he  remarked,  "  Osage,  you  now  see  your  wives, 
your  brothers,  your  daughters,  your  sons,  redeemed  from 
captivity.  Who  did  this?  was  it  the  Spaniards?  No. 
The  French  ?  No.  Had  either  of  those  people  been  go-l 
vernors  of  the  country,  your  relatives  might  have  rottedl 
in  captivity,  and  you  never  would  have  seen  them ;  but  thel 
Americans  stretched  forth  their  hands,  and  they  are  rej 
turned  to  you ! !  What  can  you  do  in  return  for  all  thit| 
goodness?  Nothing:  all  your  lives  would  not  suffice  tol 
repay  their  goodness."  This  man  had  children  in  captij 
vity,  not  one  of  whom  were  we  Able  to  obtain  for  him. 

The  chief  then  requested  that  lieutenant  Wilkinsoo| 
and  Dr.  Robinson  might  be  permitted  to  accompany  then 
by  land,  which  I  consented  to.  Wrote  a  letter  to  the  Che 
veux  Blanche,  by  lieutenant  Wilkinson.  When  we  parte 
(after  delivering  the  Indians  their  baggage)  Sans  Oreiilej 
put  an  Indian  on  board^  to  hunt^  or  obey  any  other  com] 


inan< 
o'cio 
ersaj 
and  e 

tance 
1 


•The 
fcmiel  de  hi 
putatioo  of 
nor  Lewis. 
WUeman. 
"ho,  for  his , 
li'position, 
ititle  him  to 


3'clock, 

ntlemen 

ladbeen 

,ge,  with 

rilkinson 

Lnd  affeo- 

arms  of 

and  cWl- 

one  from 
the  same 

ig  brougbt 

lie  ensembk 

when  com- 

»f  the  mind, 

e  their  full 

)ns,\vithUit 

m  a  speech, 

your  wives, 

ieemed  from 

iards  ?    No. 

pie  been  go- 
have  rotted] 

lem  -,  but  the] 
they  are  re- 

rn  for  all  thisl 

not  suffice  to 

dren  in  captiJ 

n  for  him. 
antWilkinsonj 

:ompany  thei 
ter  to  the  Cb( 
henwepartt 
)  SansOrolle 
any  other  coffl^ 


TO  THE  SOURCES  OP  THE  ARKANSAW,  8cc.     12 j 

mands  I  might  have  for  him.  We  stopped  at  elevei 
o'clock  to  dry  our  baggage.  Found  our  biscuit  and  crzck- 
ers  almost  all  ruined.  Put  off  at  half  past  lour  o'clock, 
and  encamped  at  three  quarters  past  five  o'clock.  Dis- 
tance 15  1-2  miles.  j 

1 6t/j  August,  Saturday. — ^We  embarked  at  fit*  o'clock 
and  came  on  extremely  well  in  the  barge  to  a  French 
hundng  camp  (evacuated),  twelve  miles  to  bfeak^t,  the 
batteaux  coming  up  late :  we  exchanged  hands.  Abdut 
twelve  o'clock  passed  the  grand  fork,  which  is  equal  in 
size  to  the  one  on  which  we  pursued  our  route.  Waited 
to  dine  at  the  rocks  called  the  Swallow's  Nest,  on  the  west 
shore  aboye  the  forks.  The  batteaux  having  gaini^ 
nearly  half  an  hour,  the  crews  are  convinced  that  it  is  iK>t 
the  boat,  but  men  who  make  the  difference :  each  take 
their  own  boat,  after  which  we  proceeded  very  well,  the 
water  being  good  and  men  i^  spirits.  S&w  an  elk  on  the 
shore,  also  met  an  old  man  alone  hunting,  from  whom 
we  obtained  no  information  of  consequence.  Encamped 
on  the  west  shore  at  Mine  river.  Passed  the  place  where 
the  chief,  called  the  Belle  Oiseau,  and  others  were  killed.* 
Distance  3^  miles.  I 

nt/j  Augmt,  Sunday, — ^We  embarked  at  five  o'clock 

and  came  twelve  miles  to  breakfast.     At  four  o'clock  ar- 

ived  at  ten  French  houses  on  the  east  shore,  where  was 

tlhen  residing  a  Sac,  who  was  married  to  an  Osage  femme 

and  spoke  French  only.     We  afterwards  passed  the  pod- 


*  The  BilU  Oheau  was  killed  by  the  Sacs  In  the  year  1804,  In  a  boat  «f 
bmiel  de  Liz%  when  on  his  way  down  to  St.  Louis,  in  order  to  join  the  first  de- 
putation of  his  nation,  who  were  forwarded  to  the  seat  of  government  by  gover« 
Dor  Lewis.  A  particular  relation  of  the  event,  no  doubt,  has  been  given  by  that 
geideman.  This  chief  had'a  son  who  accompanied  me  to  the  Pawnee  nation, 
vho,  for  his  honorable  deportment,  attachment  to  our  government,  amiableness  of 
lisposition,  and  the  respect  and  esteem  in  which  he  was  held  by  his  compeers, 
otitic  hun  to  the  attention  of  our  agents  to  his  nar.;on. 


f 


111' 

i  1    5     ■ 


I 


't 


\  •    r 
\     t 


'i"\ 


i  ■: 


'' 


14  ( ■, 


\it 


.  roUKNAI.  OF  K  VOVAGF. 

*  .  i;.«««lv  had  his  fort,  not*  w* 

1»  of  wWch  «»8  renamng.  me  spo        6  ,j^ 

Jf^e  superior  gro-th  of  vege»««^J-,^  i.  . 

S'cne  soUd  bed  of  '^<»^^'^CcV.o  the  viUage  of  tte 

oW-    stopped  «  nu«  o  doA»  ^  ^ 

4  ,eco»l  fork  of  Ae  r^«  a^  ™^    .       ^,  ,eft  (A. 

S«l  f»''  '-Tf  e^X  Xt  more  than  50  o,  « 
0,^  we  pursued)  N.  60  w.  j^^tut  pUntyi:* 

.  f^  in  wdth,  very  full  of  old  tre  ^  ^^i 

^.  Observed  *ero^«»^-J-^^„^  „^  ,.d„ck, 
Wilkinson  crossed,     we  p      ...      -je  across  the  nver.l 
,hen  «e.e«=  halted  by  aarge^j;^^  ^^,  Osagd 

Dispatched  Baroney  to  *«;'"*8  ^^  ,^ 

to^ocurehorsestotakeourb^^ene^^^^  I 

^Uaded  our  .^^«'^  »;^;d  at  our  camp,  the  J 
■Wi^inson,  «'*  ^"""'"ff '  _..„ss  from  the  general,'! 
^eTof  whom  pre^nted  n- an  ^f^^^^  ^^^^  ^  J 

^letters from  my  """^  ^  j,    ^  violent  head^ 
It  commenced   raming,  ^«  i 

appendix  to  part  11.  LN«.»-]P»l^*  38. 


commenc 


TO  THE  SOURCES  OF  THE  ARKANSAW,  kc.     137 


narked 
erbaidL 
isatery 
■e  of  t£e 
Vecame 
at  shorci 
a  pcairicB 


Atablishment,  at  which  we  arriTcd  about  four  o'clock,  and 
commenced  pitching  our  encampment  near  the  edge  of  the 
prairie,  when  I  was  informed  that  three  men  had  arrived 
from  St.  Louis,  sent  by  Manuel  de  Liza.  I  diiqpGitched  lieu- 
tenant Wilkinson  to  the  village,  with  Baroney,  who  brought 
to  camp  the  man  who  had  charge  of  the  others  from  St. 
Louis :  he  having  no  passport,  I  detained  him  until  further 
cdhsideration.  Our  reception  by  the  Osage  was  flatter- 
ing, and  particularly  by  the  White  Hair  and  our  fellow- 
travellers.  This  evening  there  arrived  in  the  village  of 
the  Grand  Osage  an  express  from  the  Arkansaw,  who 
brought  the  news  that  a  boat,  ascending  that  river^  had 
been  fired  on,  and  had  two  white  men  killed  and  two 
wounded,  and  that  the  brother-in-law  of  the  Cheveux 
Blanche,  who  happened  to  be  on  board,  was  also  killed, 
his  put  the  whole  village  in  mourning. 

20th  August,  Wednesday.^^Ahout  twelve  o'cbck  I 

ispatched  Baroney  for  the  chiefs  of  the  Grand  village,  in 

)Tder  to  give  the  general's  parole  to  the  Cheveux  Blanche, 

so  a  young  man  to  the  village  of  the  Little  Osage.    The 

Ihcveux  Blanche  and  his  people  arrived  about  three 

'clock,  and  after  waiting  some  time  for  the  Wind  and  his 

ple^  I  ju«t  Informed  the  chi«4  ^  hat  1  had  merely  assem- 

naoned  at  ouiHled  them  to  deliver  the  pare  )e  c^  the  general,  and  present 

mt  head-acbe.H)e  marks  of  distinction  intended  for  the  Cheveux  Blanche 

d  his  son,  hanging  a  gnmd  medal  round  the  neck  of  the 

tter.  The  packets  comntttted  to  my  charge  for  the  rela- 

ns  of  the  deceased  Osages,  were  then  delivered  to  them, 

e  widow  making  the  distribution.     It  must  be  remarked 

lat  I  had  merely  requested  the. Cheveux  Blanche  to  com.e 

aded  and  too»h  his  son,  and  receive  the  general's  message ;  but  iii- 

de  Liza  had  iufcd  of  coming  with  a  few  chiefs,  he  was  accompanied  by 

men,  to  all  of  whom  we  were  obliged  to  give  some- 

^  to  drink.     When  the  council  was  over  we  mounted 


'  past  five 
,    passed 
,the  rigte 
icleftCthel 
a5Oot60l 

i  plenty  \^ 
i  Ueuienaati 
ne  o'clock,! 
,ss  the  river.] 
rand  Osage,! 
o  the  towns',! 
^  lieutenartj 
amp,thefoi-I 
the  general,* 


I  great 


fordl 


ced  very  earb 
atoneo'cloci 

O.or  50  in< 


ir 


i 


[I 


^  ; 


1  I 


i   1 


^  I  11 


1^ 


If 

II 

m 


p 


'  'I 


I 

■.11 


138 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE 


fc.    ,  ^ 


our  horses  and  rode  to  the  village,  and  halted  at  the  quar- 
ters of  the  chief,  where  we  were  regaled  with  boiled 
pumpkins :  then  we  went  to  two  differ^t  houses,  and  were 
invited  to  many  others,  but  dech'ned,  promising  that  I 
would  pay  them  a  visit,  previous  to  my  departure,  and 
spend  the  whole  day.  We  then  returned  to  camp.  After 
enquiring  of  White  Hair  if  the  men  of  Manuel  de  Liza 
had  any  ostensible  object  in  view,  he  informed  me  that  tU^ 
had  tsiily  said  to  him  that  they  expected  Manuel  would  be 
up  to  trade  in  the  autumn.  I  concluded  to  take  the  depo- 
sition of  Babtiste  Larme  as  to  the  manner  in  which  he  vm 
employed  by  Manuel  de  Liza,  and  forward  the  same  to 
Dr.  Brown  and  the  attorney-general  of  Louisiana,  and  per- 
mit the  men  to  return  to  St.  Louis,  as  k  was  impossible 
for  me  to  detach  a  party  with  them  as  prisoners.  | 

21st  August,  Thursday. — ^In  the  morning  White  Hair 
paid  us  a  visit,  and  brought  us  a  present  of  corn,  meat, 
and  grease,  and  we  invited  him,  his  son,  and  son-in-law  to 
bireakfast  with  us,  and  gave  his  companions  something  to 
eat.  I  then  wrote  a  number  of  letters  to  send  by  express, 
and  enclosed  the  deposition  of  Larme.  In  the  sdtemoon 
we  rode  to  the  village  of  the  Little  Osage,  and  were  re- 
ceived by  our  fellow-travellers  with  true  hospitality.  Re- 
turned in  the  evening,  when  a  tremendous  storm  of  rain, 
thunder  and  lightning  commenced,  and  continued  with 
extraordinary  violence  until  half  past  nine  o'clock.  It 
was  with  great  difficulty  we  were  enabled  to  keep  our 
tents  from  blowing  down.  The  place  prepared  for  an  ob- 
servatory was  carried  away. 

22d  August,  Friday. — ^Preparing  in  the  morning 
for  the  council,  and  committing  to  paper  the  heads  of  thej 
subject  on  which  I  intended  to  speak.  The  chiefs  of  thi 
Little  Osage  arrived  about  one  o'clock,  also  the  interpretei 


of  the 

Osage 

Osage. 

ceremc 

the  gei 

for  not 

the  two 

both,   i 

advice  oi 

ceiVed  m 

Cheveux 

give  me  a 

same  amo 

himself  to 

conduct,  1 

States,  and 

I  deemed  caj 

to  your  vi 

town  in  th^ 

pfPty,  but 
^'ving  some 
reprimand  i 
"le  one 

>y  opimon,! 
»d  the  Ch7 

'yAeformj 
[alias  the  m 

'ust  here  ol 
Je»  accompJ 
ie  geograpjr 
=«ved  that,  ^ 
\  the  Gran 
'on  and  t  j 


TO  THE  SOURCES  OF  THE  ARKANSAW,  kc.     129 


of  the  Grand  Osage,  who  pretended  to  say  that  the  Grand 
Osage  had  expected  us  at  their  village  vrith  the  Little 
Osage.  The  Cheveux  Blanche  arrives  with  his  chiefs.  The 
ceremony  of  the  council  being  arranged,  I  delivered  them 
the  general's  parole  forwarded  by  express.    My  reason 
for  not  delivering  it  until  this  time  was,  in  order  to  have 
the  two  villages  together,  as  it  was  equally  interesting  to 
both.    After  this  I  explained  at  large  the  will,  wishes,  and 
advice  of  their  Great  Father^  and  the  mode  which  Ipcon- 
ceived  most  applicable  to  carry  them  into  effect.    The 
Cheveux  Blanche  replied  in  a  few  words,  and  promised  to 
give  me  a  full  reply  to-morrow;.    The  Wind  replied  to  the 
same  amount ;  after  which  the  Cheveux  Blanche  addressed 
himself  to  the  Wind  as  follows ;— *«  I  am  shocked  at  your 
conduct,  Tuttasuggy,  you  who  have  lately  come  from  the 
:  States,  and  should  have  been  wise  \  but  you  led  the  re- 
deemed  captives,  with  an  officer  of  the  United  States, 
[to  your  village,  instead  of  bringing  them  through  my 
[town  in  the  first  instance."    To  this  the  Wind  made  no 
[reply,  but  left  his  seat  shortly  after  under  pretence  of 
giving  some  orders  to  his  young  men.    I  conceived  this 
reprimand  intended  barely  to  shew  us  the  superiority  of 
iie  one  and  inferiority  of  the  other,  and  originated,  in 
ly  opinion,  from  an  altercation  of  lieutenant  Wilkinson 
id  the  Cheveux  Blanche,  in  which  allusions  were  made 
y  the  former,  on  the  friendly  conduct  of  the  Little  Chief y 
keep  ourjalias  the  Wind)  wlien  compared  to  that  of  the  latter.     I 
^"7  r-y  an  ob-Bnust  here  observe  that  when  the  chiefs  and  prisoners  left 
e,  accompanied  by  lieutenant  Wilkinson,  I  did  not  know 
the  mormngWie  geographical  situation  of  the  two  villages,  but  con- 
heads  of  thefcved  that,  in  going  to  the  Little  Village,  thiey  would  pass 
Vuefs  of  thwy  the  Grand  Village^  and  of  course  that  lieutenant  Wil- 
lie interpret€#nson  and  the  chief  would  arrange  the  affair  properly. 


•quar- 
boiled 
dwere 
that  I 
re,  and 
After 
de  lizcL 
hattlfty 
irould  be 
he  depo- 
hhewto 
.  same  to 

,  and  per- 
mpossibk 
\ 
imteHar 

orn,  tneat, 
^n-in-lawto 
mething  to 
by  express, 
e  afternoon 
nd  were  re. 
taUty.  Re 
rm  of  A 
tinued  with 
o'clock,  li 
to 


>  «,; 


'  I 


KH         r 


;^.^"„  1 


pi  .^1 


l<  ,( 


1  n 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE 


"°  J        I  exDCCted  to  have  receivea 

^adJusu't,  S''.'"'-*C^'rmy  demands ;  but  re- 
from  the  chiefs  the,r  ''"7J'^„'°    "Urming  that  the, 

immersions  of  J-Pf  ^  ^'^'!^^;  „early  half  the  day  m 
^,h  August,  S««^''>--^f  "^e  ielescopic  sights  of 
^jus-Sng  the  line  of  c-^^— -^^,,  evening,  and  ^. 
,4  .heodohte.    It  l';^"  ^  7,o,ered,  I  -as  so  unfot^ 
thoftgh  the  sky  ■^'l  nf  !TI  immersion  and  (aUhough 
„na« as  to  miss  ^^^""^  °  „^" "^"^ersion  also.       ^ 
clear  in  the  i"termed«te  per^^J         ^.y^^^  ^^^  „ade  ,p 
informed  by  Baroney  that  tn  ^^^^^^^^  ^^^ 

elevenhorses  for  us    ^^  J  ^^:„,„\«  and  son  of  A. 
preter,  accompamed  by   he  .^^^^^^  ^^  tta 

V.heveux  Blanche,  came  to  camp_^  ^^^  ^  „f  ^^e  B,j 

there  vrere  no  horses  to  be  go 
Osage.t 

•rBari'—p-':::;,  _>„.  ,iu...  .*=.", .-  »,r.*j 

The  »».-"  0«r  TTJ  ~^^„,T,  „„pVT  «Uh  ,.«  «,»..,  bu.    W| 
„„  <»  m.. .»  •».'»";'t,^' „  U  potion  tor  ,o«r  ,.,.p-  ,^ 

...  o»t"'  •«"* '-  •'"'  trb:.:^".'::  or  *i  ch..  -h 

L..»er.-««''  '•f^,°^;L  ;Mtenou.rfa,nger!    A..O  *«      , 


'li'iin 


celved 
but  re- 
it  they 
djusted 
ridional 
ssed  the 

;  day  m 
sights  of 
r,  and  al- 
so unfor 
[aUhough  I 
o.    Iwas 
I  made  ifp 
,  the  inter, 
ion  of  the 
ed  me  that 
of  the 

.  of  the  Chevctl 
,l2.  ..  I  am  cowl 
our  chief  hatl^sl 
uinish  hoM«,fe| 
nan  after  the  Cli^l 

pityonmyf*] 
equest  {  hut  1 " 

to  bring  yo"  H 
cand  giveyoo'l^ 

Mtion.merclyioJ 
„V.ghtsee«l«t4 
their  chief*  to  follj 

tomakepe*"*' 
AstotheirhonI 

. .,  but  it  i*  w""n 


TO  THE  SOURCES  OF  THE  ARKANSAW,  &c.    131 

25//j  August,  Monday, — ^In  the  morning  we  were  vi- 
sited by  the  Cheveux  Blanche  and  three  or  four  of  his 
chiefs,  who  were  pleased  to  accord  to  my  demands.  He 
found  much  difficulty  in  informing  me  that,  in  all  his  vil- 
lage, he  could  only  raise  four  horses,  but  that  w?  should 
be  accompanied  by  his  son  and  son-in-law.  I  then  ex- 
pressed to  him  the  difference  of  our  expectations  from  the 
reality.  He  remained  yntil  after  twelve  o'clock,  when  I 
went  to  the  Little  Osage  village,  and  was  receivigd  with 
great  friendship  by  the  chief.  Remained  all  night  at  the 
house  of  Tuttasuggy.     Took  the  census.* 

26//>  August,  Tuesday, — Rose  early  and  found  my 
friends  in  council,  which  was  merely  relative  to  our 
horses.'  The  chief  then  declared  their  determination  to 
me,  and  that  h .  S'^^^self  gave  me  one  horse,  and  lent  me 
eight  more  to  c  ui  >  y  our  baggage  to  the  Pawnees.  Sold 
the  old  batteaux  tor  100  dollars,  in  merchandise,  which  I 
conceived  infinitely  preferable  to  leaving  her  to  the  uncer- 
tain safe-guard  of  the  Indians.  About  this  time  we  re- 
ceived the  news  that  the  party  of  Potowatomies  were  dis- 
covered to  be  near  the  towns*  I  gave  them  the  best 
advice  I  was  capable  of  giving,  and  then  returned  to  our 
camp.  ' 

27/^  August,  VVednesdhy. — Spent  in  arranging  oiu* 
baggage  for  the  horses.  Received  four  horses  from  the 
Little  Village  and  two  from  the  Big  Village.  In  the  even- 
ing lieutenant  Wilkinson  rode  to  the*  Grand  Village.  I 
observed  two  immersions  of  Jupiter's  satellites. 

28/Z>  August,  Thursday. — ^Writing  to  the  secretary  at 

whether  I  can  pay  them  here,  or  give  them  an  order  on  the  (uperintendant  of  In- 
dian aflairs  at  St.  Louis :  but  this  I  do  not  now  wish  them  to  be  nude  acquainted 
1  with. 

*  See  Statistical  Tables,  .Appendix  to  part  11.  page  53,  and  opposite  page  s^. 


;'  *fi  ! 


i  1 4 


.  \, 


M 


!      t 


132 


jqOrnal  of  a  voyage 


ti  !iii 


h ,    ■  r:!;|-J 


'i'^'^   ''I    i 


m^  ' 


3  i: :  .£i 


war  and  the  general,  and  making  arrangements  for  our 
departure.     Visited  by  the  Wind  and  Sans  Oreille. 

.29th  August,  JFr/J/iy.—- Forenoon  writing  letters.  In 
the  afternoon  Dr.  Robinson  and  myself  went  to  the  Grand 
Villajge,,  at  which  we  saw  the  great  medicine  dance.  Re- 
raaihed     the  village  all  night. 

,  SOtb  August,  Saturday. — Returned  to  the  camp  after 
settling  all  my  affairs  at  the  town.  Sealed  up  our  dis* 
patches  and  sent  off  the  general's  express.*  In  the  after- 
noon we  were  visited  by  the  principal  men  of  the  Little 
Village  and  the  chief,  to  whom  I  presented  a  flag,  and 
made  the  donations  which  I  conceived  requisite  to  the  dif< 
ferent  Indians,  oh  account  of  horses,  &c.     - 

2^}st  August,  Sunday. — ^Arranging  our  packs  and 
loading  our  horses,  in  order  to  fit  our  loads,  as  we  ex- 
pected to  march  on  the  morrow.  Up  late  writing  letters. 
•  1st  September,  Monday. — ^StrUck  our  tents  early  in  the 
morning,  and  commenced  loading  our  horses.  We  now 
discovered  that  an  Indian  had  stolen  a  large  black  horse^ 
which  t  the  Cheveux  Blanche  had  presented  to  lieutenant 
Willyijson.  I  mounted  a  horse  to  pursue  him ;  but  the 
interpreter  sent  to  town,  and  the  chiefs  wife  sent  another 
in  its  place.  We  left  the  place  about  twelve  o'clock  with 
fifteen  loaded  horses,  our  party  consisting  of  two  lieute- 
nants, one  doctor,  two  sergeants,  one  corporal,  fifteen  pri- 
vates, two  interpreters,  three  Pawnees,  and  ft)ur  chiefs  of| 
the  Grand  Osage,  amounting  in  all  to  30  warriors  and  onel 
woman.  We  crossed  tlie  Grand  Osage  fork  and  a  prairie 
N.  80*"  W.  five  miles  to  the  fork  of  the  Little  Osage. 
Joined  by  Sans  Oreille  and  seven  Little  Osage,  all  of  whoml 
I  equipped  for  the  march.     Distance  8  miles. 

2d  September,  Thi.rsday. — Marched  at  six  o'clock.! 
Halted  at  ten  o'clock,  and  two  o'clock  on  the  side  of  th( 

'*  Sec  Appcndi*  to  part  II.  [No.  lo.]  page  40.  [Nos.  II  and  la.]  page  4J' 


creel 

Whii 

Chou 

form 

first  t 

panied 

ali  nig] 

feaug; 

'I 
tfteliti. 

Afr.  He 

overtooJ 

first  cam 

tigued,  V 

i'ed  and 

fa'es.    Dj 

the  morni 

Sans  Ore 

3nd  proc© 

^'/elveo'c 

was  overta 

been  able 

sent  two  hi 

|^«g  jealc^ 

-Afier  maka 

seif  took  of 

stream,  unt 

[tant  about 

'asonofclel 
circumfer 
%htfully 
"lutiful  plal 


4  ■.;'.[ 


TO  THE  SOURCES  OF  THE  ARKANSAW,  8cc.    J33 


or  our 

fs.    In 

anp  after 
our  dis- 
the  aftcf . 
:he  Little 
flag,  and 
to  tHe  dif- 

jacks  and 

as  we  ex- 

ing  letteW. 

early  in  *^' 
Wenovf 

iack  borsej 
lieutenant  1 
._.  butthel 
;nt  another! 
'clock  with 
two  lieute| 
L  fifteen  pti- 
.ur  chiefs  of 
|iors  and  onel 
_id  a  pradriel 
Attle  Osage, 
anofwhoml 

six  o'cloctl 
lesideof  tli« 


creek,  our  route  having  been  all  the  time  on  its  borders. 
Whilst  there  I  was  informed  by  a  young  Indian  that  Mr.  C. 
Chouteau  had  arrived  at  the  towns.  I  conceived  it  proper 
for  me  to  return,  v hich  I  did;  accompanied  by  Baroney, 
first  to  the  Little  Village ;  from  whence  we  were  accom- 
panied by  the  Wind  to  the  Big  Village,  where  we  remained 
all  night  at  the  lodge  of  the  Cheveux  Blanche.  Mr.  Chou- 
teau gav  J  us  all  the  news ;  after  which  I  scrawled  a  letter 
to  the  general  and  my  friends. 

3d  September,  Wednesday. — Rose  early,  and  went  to 
the  Lit;. "e  Village  to  breakfast.  After  giving  my  letters  to 
Mr.  Henry,  and  arranging  my  affairs,  we  proceeded,  and 
overtook  our  party  at  two  o'clock.  They  had  lefi:  their 
first  camp  about  four  miles.  Our  horses  being  much  fa- 
tigued, we  concluded  to  remain  all  night.  Sent  out  our 
red  and  white  hunters,  all  of  whom  only  killed  two  tur- 
kies.    Distance  4  miles. 

4tl)  September,  Thursday,— -When  about  to  march  in 
the  morning,  one  of  our  horses  was  missing,  and  we  left 
Sans  Oreille,  with  the  two  Pawnees,  to  search  for  him, 
and  proceeded  till  about  nme  o'clock ;  then  stopped  until 
t'  /elve  o'clock,  and  then  marched.  In  about  half  an  hour 
'^s  overtaken  and  informed  that  Sans  Oreille  lad  not 
been  able  to  find  our  horse ;  on  which  we  encamped,  and 
sent  two  horses  back  for  the  load.  One  of  the  Indians, 
being  jealous  of  his  wife,  sent  her  back  to  the  village. 
After  making  the  necessary  notes,  Dr.  Robinson  and  my- 
self took  our  horses  and  followed  the  course  of  the  little 
stream,  until  we  arrived  at  the  Grand  river,  which  was  dis- 
Itant  about  six  miles.    We  here,  found  a  most  delightful 

>ason  of  clear  water,  of  25  paces  diameter  and  about  100 
circumference,  in  which  we  bathed ;  found  it  deep  and 

lelightfully  pleasant.  Nature  scarcely  ever  formed  a  more 
lutiful  place  for  a  farm.    We  returaed  to  camp  about 


i 


1     i| 


]34 


jpURNAIu;  Of  A  VOYAGE 


>  V 


dusk,  when  I  was  informed  that  some  of  the  Indians  had 
been  dreaming  and  wished  to  return.  Killed  one  deer, 
one  turkey,  one  racoon.     Distance  1 3  miles. 

5t/j  September,  Friday, — In  the  morning  our  Little 
Osage  all  rrnie  to  a  determination  to  return,  and,  much 
to  my  surp.  »,  Sans  Oreille  amongst  the  rest !  I  had  given 
an  order  ok  the  chiefs  fur  the  lost  horse  to  be  delivered  to 
Sans  Oreille's  wife,  previously  to  my  knowing  that  he  was 
going  back,  but  took  from  him  his  gun,  and  the  guns  from 
all  the  others  also.  In  about  five  miles  we  struck  a  beau- 
tiful hill,  which  bears  south  on  the  prairie :  its  elevation  I 
suppose,  to  be  ^00  feet.  From  its  summit  the  view  is 
sublime  to  tl  j  east  and  south-east.  We  waited  on  this 
hill  to  breakfast,  and  had  to  send  two  miles  for  water. 
Killed  a  deer  on  the  rise,  which  was  soon  roasting  befc^n , 
the  fire.  Here  another  Indian  wished  to  return  and  take 
his  horse  with  him,  which,  as  we  had  so  few,  I  could  not! 
allovv,  for  he  had  already  recdved  a  gun  for  the  use  of  hisi 
horse.  I  told  him  he  might  return,  but  his  hors^  would! 
go  to  the  Pawnees.  We  marched,  leaving  the,  Osagel 
trace,  >yhich  we  had  hitlierto  followed,  and  crossed  the  UM 
to  a  creek  which  was  almost  ,dry.  Descended  it  to  th(| 
main  river,  where  we  dined.  1^^  ^^^^^"^^^^'^^^  Indiasj 
came  up,  and  put  on  an  air  of  satisfaction  and  content,! 
We  again  marched  about  six  miles  further,  and  encanipedl 
at  the  head  of  a  small  creek,  about  half  a  mile  fn 
water.     1^/istance  19  miles. 

6th  September,  Saturday.— 'We  marched  at  half  pai 
six  o'clock,  and  arrived  at  a  large  fork  of  the  little  Osaj 
river,  where  we  breakfasted.  In  the  holes  in  the  creek' 
discovered  many  fish,  which,  from  the  stripes  on  their  bd 
l^es,  and  their  spots,  I  supposed  to  be  trout  and  bass :  thi 
were  twelve  inches  long.  This  brought  to  mind  the  ni 
cessity  of  a  net,  which  would  have  frequently  alTordi 


r  Little 
i,  much 
ad  given 
iveredto 
It  he  was 
uns  from 
k.  a  beau- 
jlevationl 
ve  view  is 
ed  on  this 
for  water. 
dngbef<^f^| 
m  and  take  I 
1  x:ould  noil 
leuseofhisl 

tiors''  wouldl 
r  the,  Osagel 
jsedthehilkj 
ed  it  to  tkl 
ented  Ift^l 
And  contenil 

lid  encampeil 
mile  froi^l 

1  at  half  F 
e  little  Osagi 
.  the  creek 
;s  on  their  bel 

,ndbass:tl^^ 
.  mind  the  n« 

,emly  affor^^^ 


to  THE  SOURCES  OF  THE  ARKANSAW,&c.     135 

subsistence  to  the  whbfe  jjarty.  We  halted  at  one  o'clock 
and  remained  until  four  o'clock.  Being  told  that  we 
could  not  arrive  at  any  water,  we  here  filled  our  vessels. 
At  five  o'clock  arrived  at  the  dividing  ridge,  between  the 
waters  of  the  Osage  and  Arkansaw  (alias  White  river), 
the  dry  branches  of  which  interlock  within  20  yards  of 
each  other.  The  prospect  from  the  dividing  ridge  to  the 
east  and  south-east  is  sublime.  The  prairie  rising  and 
falling  in  regular  swells,  as  far  as  the  tiight  cin  extend, 
produces  a  very  beautiful  appearance.  We  left  our 
course,  and  struck  down  to  the  south-west  on  a  small 
creek,  or  rather  a  puddle  of  water.  Killed  one  deer. 
Distance  20  miles. 

1th  September,  Sunday, — We  left  this  at  half  past  six 
o'clock,  before  which  we  had  a  difficulty  with  ti  son  of 
the  chief,  which  was  accommodated.  At  nine  o'clock  we 
came  on  a  large  fork  and  stopped  for  breakfast.  Proceeded 
on  atid  encamped  on  a  fine  stream,  where  we  swam  our 
horses  and  bathed  ourselves.  Killed  four  deer.  Distance 
1.5  miles. 

^th  September,  Monday. — Marched  early,  and  arrived 
at  a  grand  fork  of  the  White  river.  The  Indians  were  all 
discontented :  we  had  taken  the  wrong  ford ;  but,  as  they 
were  dispersed  through  the  woods,  we  could  not  be  go- 
verned by  their  movements.  Previously  to  our  leaving  the 
camp,  the  son  of  the  Chevrux  Blanche  proposed  r^um- 
ing,  and  offered  no  other  reason  than  that  he  felt  too  lazy 
to  perform  the  route.  The  reason  I  offered  to  prevent  his 
going  was  ineffectual,  and  he  departed  with  his  hunter, 
who  deprived  us  of  one  horse.  His  return  left  us  without 
any  chief  or  man  of  consideration,  except  the  son  of  the 
Belle  OiseiSiu,  who  was  but  a  lad.  The  former  appeared 
to  be  a  discontented  young  fellow,  and  filled  with  self 
pride  :  he  certainly  should  have  considered  it  as  an  honor 


'f.y  a,  u 


>.     19 


J   • 


.*1 

I 


■■lift 


i»f 


41 


136 


JOURNAL  OF  ^  VOYAGE 


If  m-] 


'i<      '  L 


to  be  sent  on  so  respectable  an  embassy  as  he  was.  Ano< 
ther  Indian,  who  owned  one  of  our  horses,  wished  to  re- 
tum  with  him,  which  was  positively  refused  him  *,  but 
fearing  he  might  steal  him,  I  contented  him  with  a  pre- 
sent. We  marched,  and  made  the  second  branch,  cross- 
ing one  prairie  twelve  miles,  in  which  we  suffered  much 
with  drought.    Distance  22  miles. 

9th  September^  Tuesday. — Marched  at  seven  o'clock, 
and  struck  a  large  creek  at  eleven  miles  distance.  On 
holding  a  council,  it  was  determined  to  ascend  this  creek 
to  the  highest  point  of  water,  and  then  strike  across  to  a 
large  river  of  the  Arkansawv  We  ascended  four  miles 
and  a  half,  and  encamped.  Killed  one  cabrie,  two  deer, 
twoturkies.    Distance  12  miles. 

lOtb  September,  Wednesday. — ^Marched  early.  Struck 
and  passed  the  divide  between  the  Grand  river  and  th^ 
Verdegris  river.  Stopped  to  breakfast  on  a  small  stream 
of  the  latter ;  after  which  we  marched  and  encamped  on 
the  fourth  small  stream.  Killed  one  elk,  one  deer.  Dis- 1 
tance  21  miles. 

iltb  September,  Thursday. — ^Passed  four  branches  I 
and  over  high  hilly  prairies.  Encamped  at  night  on  a  large 
branch  of  Grand  river.    Killed  one  cabrie,  one  deer.| 
Distance  17  miles. 

12th  September,  ir/V/jy.— Commenced  our  march  at 
seven  o'clock.    Passed  very  ruff  flint  hills,     ^y  feet  blis- 1 
tered  and  very  sore.    I  stood  on  a  hill,  and  in  one  view 
below  me  saw  buffalo,  elk,  deer,  cabrie,  and  panthers. 
Encamped  on  the  main  branch  of  Grand  river,  which  had  i 
very  steep  banks  and  was  deep.    Dr.  Robinson^  Bradley,  | 
and  Baroney  arrived  after  dusk,  having  killed  three  buf- 
falo, which,  with  one  I  killed,  and  two  by  the  Indians,  | 
made  six ;  tf^e  Indians  alledging  it  was  the  Kans'  hunting- 


[i'clock, 
:e.    On 
is  creek 
ross  to  a 
)ur  nules 
:wo  deer, 


TO  THE  SOURCES  OF  THE  ARKANSAW,  8cc.    iW 

groun()>  therefore  they  would  destroy  all  the  game. they 
possibly  could.    Distance  18  miles. 

IStb  Septanber^  Sa^urday,-^LAte  in  marching,  it  hav- 
ing every  appearance  of  rain.  Halted  to  dine  on  a  branch 
of  Grand  river.  Marched  again .  at  half  past '  two  o'clock, 
and  halted  at  five,  intending  to  dispatch  Dr.  Robinson  and 
one  of  our  Pawnees  to  the  vill^e  to-morrow.  Killed  six 
buffalo,  one  elk»  and  three  deer.    Distance  9  mile^. 

Htjif  Slumber,  Sunday, — ^The  doctor  and  Frank  (a 
young  Pawnee)  marched  for  the  village  at  day-light  j  we 
at  half  past  six  o'clock.  Halted  at  one  o'clock.  On  the 
march  we  were  continually  passing  through  large  herds  of 
buffalo,  elk>  and  cabrie ;  and  I  have  no  doubt  but  one  hun- 
ter could  support  200  men.  I  prevented  the  men  shoot- 
ing at  the  game,  not  merely  because  of  the  scarcity  of  am- 
munition, but,  as  I  conceived,  the  laws  of  morality  forbid 
it  also.  Encamped  at  sun-set  on  the  main  branch  of  White 
river  hitherto  called  Grand  river.  Killed  one  buffalo  and 
lone  cabrie.    Distance  21  miles. 

15tb  September,  Monday. ^-M^ched  at  seven  o'clock 
[passed  a  very  large  Kans  encampment,  evacuated,  \"hich 
[had  been  occuj^ed  last  summer.  Proceeded  on  to  the  di- 
Ividing  ridge,  between  the  waters  of  the  White  river  and 
[the  Kans.  This  ridge  was  covered  with  a  layer  of  stone, 
Iwhich  was  strongly  impregnated  with  iron  ore,  and  on  the 
[west  side  of  said  ridge  we  found  spa  springs.  Halted  at 
lone  o'clock,  very  much  against  the  inclination  of  the 
lOsage,  who,  from  the  running  of  the  buffalo,  conceived  a 
party  of  the  Kans  to.be  near.  Killed  two  buffalo.  Dis- 
iiance  IS  miles. 

I6th  September,  Tuesday. — Marched  late,  and  in  about 

|four  miles  and  a  half  distance,  came  to  a  very  handsome 

)ranch  of  water,  at  which  we  stopped  and  remained  until 

fter  two  o'clock,  when  we  marched  and  crossed  two 


W^ 


■■;■ 


4't 


1i 


i  m 


>Hl 


i« 


.        tl 


I  ,1 


tl 


JOURNAL  O^  A  VOVAGE 
138  .       .  ,     j^t  the  second  creer 

^      i,«,     Encamped  on  the  third.  ^3,^ 

a  horse  wa  ^  ^^^^^^  ^f  ^^^'^      distance  13  miles. 

Sfo'  lockit appeared  tobe  25or^  .^ ^ ^,^ ,„, 

So.    W^'^"^^  ?  ""TW<„.-Marched  a.  our  usv^ 
18,/>S.^«mfer,TA«"^^  1,      branch  or* 

hour,  and  at  twelve  o'clock  ha^K  ^.^^^  ^j,     ^te 

^Z«Wch  was  strongly  '"P^m^ge  to  meet  us.  VJ. 
.     Sr- expected  the  pe.^^o^l'<=^^/,<,„,_e  being  over. 
nJrched  agJn  at  on  o  ctock  ^^  ^^^^   „^    j 

continued  series  of  hms  J  branch.    M 

at  night  before  we  arnved  a^  ^  ^,,,.    cc. 

nearW  ten  o'clock  before  we  .^^  ^i^s 

;^cld  raining  ^  ^"'^.^^^^having  comnvenced  « 

I9tb  September,  Vriaay.  ^^^  ^^^  tents. 

ingeS  ,wfsecu.dour^ggj;»f,P,,„„  .he  whd^ 

The  rJn  continued  «'*°»*^,"^^d  ourselves  in  rea<W 

I';  during  which  -  e-pMe^_^  peeking  on  our  H 

the  Bible,  Pope's  Essays,  j^,,  will  frequent  ?  bH 

*i*  India  ink  «»^  ^'-^X^I  situation,  as  well  as  ^ 

to  mind  our  forlorn  and  A-a  y         ^^  ^^^  „, 

happiest  days  of  o"  «-";,,  ,  Urge  rock,  where 
Js  a  hill,  on  wh.ch  *'='-^        .  ,3 1  ^gine,  to  appt« 
Indians  kept  a  contmual  semm   ,  ^.^^^^  ^^  j 

them  of  the  ^^P^^*  ^a 'diLver  any  game  on  .1 

^\\  as  to  see  it  tney 

pnuries. 


TO  THE  SOURCES  OF  THE  ARKANSAW,  &c. 


139 


creek 
y  vFcnt 
m,  but 
inulea. 
\y  and 
ver :  at 
;,  and  is 
ttlestoa 

our  pro- 
lock,  and 
one  but 

our  usual 
neb  of  the  | 
ialt.    Thk 

;etU8.  ^^ 

»ing  o'ver » 
5  until  eiglit 
eh.    ItwaBi 
ter.    Com- 
25  miles, 
nenced  raifr 
ed  our  tents-l 
,1^  the  wboVJ 
s  in  rea(" 
on  our  armsj 
■quently  brin! 
as  well  as  tV 
r  encatnpw^ 
,ck,  wbere  tl 
;me,  to  appt« 
nds  or  foes,' 
game  on  t> 


20tb  September,  Saturd^.^^lt  appearing  as  if  we  pos- 
sibly might  have  a  clear  day,  I  ordered  our  baggage  spread 
abroad  to  dry ;  but  it  shortly  after  clouded  up  and  com- 
menced raining.  The  Osage  sentinel  discovered  a  buffalo 
on  the  prairies ;  upon  which  we  dispatched  a  hunter  on 
horseback  in  pursuit  of  him,  also  some  hunters  out  on 
foot,  and  before  night  (hey  killed  three  buffalo,  some  of  the 
best  of  which  we  brought  in  and  jerked  or  dried  by  the 
fire.  It  continued  showery  until  afternoon,  when  we  put 
our  baggage  again  in  a  position  to  dry,  and  remained  en- 
camped. The  detention  of  the  doctor  and  our  Pawnee 
ambassador  began  to  be  a  serious  matter  of  consideration. 
2lst  September f  Sunday, — ^We  marched  at  eight 
o*clook,  although  every  appearance  of  rain,  and  at  eleven 
o'clock  passed  a  large  creek  remarkably  salt.  Stopped  at 
one  o'clock  on  a  fresh  branch  of  the  salt  creek.  Our  in- 
terpreter having  killed  an  elk,  we  sent  out  for  some  meat, 
which  detained  us  so  late  that  I  concluded  it  best  to  en- 
camp where  we  were,  in  preference  to  running  the  risk 
of  finding  no  water.  Lieutenant  Wilkinson  was  attacked 
with  a  severe  head  head-ache  and  slight  fever.  One  of 
my  men  had  been  attacked  with  a  touch  of  the  pleurisy 
on  the  18th,  and  was  still  ill.  We  were  uiformed  by  an 
Osage  woman  that  two  of  the  Indians  were  conspiring  to 
desert  us  in  the  night  and  steal  some  of  our  horses,  one 
of  whom  was  her  husband.  We  engaged  her  as  our  spy. 
LThus  were  we  obliged  to  keep  ourselves  on  our  guard 
igainst  our  own  companions  and  fellow-travellers,  men  of 
nation  highly  favored  by  the  United  States,  but  whom  I 
)elieve  to  be  a  faithless  set  of  poltrons,  incapable  of  a 
[reat  and  generous  action.  Among  them,  indeed,  there 
lay  be  some  exceptions. 

In  the  evening,  finding  that  the  two  Indians  above 
nentioned  had  made  all  preparations  to  depart,  I  sent  for 


k 
w 
J. 


\% 


%rM  V If-  li 

It    •*    '  '4 1  -' 

»f     f  •    1 1 1      ' 

"     '      ] 


V' 


.1 

•  * 


1.  v 


140 


JOURNAL  OP  A  VOYAGE 


one  of  tfieilft,  who  owned  a  hol^e  and  had  received  a  gun 
and  other  property  for  his  hkty  and  told  him,  **  I  knew 
his  plans,  and  that  if  he  was  disposed  to  desert,  I  should 
take  car^  to  retain  his  horse ;  that  as  for  himself,  he  might 
leave  me  if  he  pleased,  as  I  only  wanted  men  with  us."  He 
replied,  *'  that  he  was  a  marif  that  he  always  performed 
his  promises  j  that  he  had  never  said  he  would  return,  but 
that  he  would  follow  me  to  the  Pawnee  village,  which  he 
intended  to  do."  He  then  brought  his  baggage  and  put 
it  under  charge  of  the  sentinel,  and  slept  by  my  fire ;  but 
notvrithstanding  I  had  him  well  watched.  Killed  one  elk. 
Distance  10  miles. 

22d  September,  Monday. — ^We  did  not  march  until 
eight  o'clock,  owing  to  the  indisposition  of  lieutenant  Wil. 
kinson.  At  eleven  waited  to  dine.  Light  mists  of  rain, 
with  flying  clouds.  We  marched  again  at  three  o'clock, 
and  continued  our  route  twelve  miles  to  the  first  branch  of 
the  republican  fork.  Met  a  Pawnee  hunter,  who  informed 
us  that  the  chief  had  left  the  village  the*  day  after  the  doc- 
tor arrived,  with  50  or  60  horses  and  many  people,  and 
had  taken  his  course  to  the  north  of  our  route ;  conse- 
quently  we  had  missed  each  other.  He  likewise  informed 
that  the  Tttaus  had  recently  killed  •  six  Pawnees,  the 
Kans  had  stolen  some  horses,  and  that  a  party  of  3O0 
Spaniards  had  lately  been  as  far  as  the  Sabine  j  but  for 
what  purpose  unknown.     Distance  1 1  miles. 

23d  September,  Tuesday. — Marched  early  and  passed 
a  large!  fork  of  the  Kans  river,  which  I  suppose  to  be  the 
one  generally  called  Solomon's.  One  of  our  horses  fell 
into  the  water  and  wet  his  load.  Halted  at  ten  o'clock  onl 
a  branch  of  this  fork.  We  marched  at  half  past  onel 
o'clock,  and  encamped  at  sun-down,  on  a  stream  where| 
we  had  a  great  difficulty  to  find  water.     We  were  over 


taken 
his  ho 

s 

horsey 
Frank 
bge)ai 
chief  ai 
day,anc 
three  o' 
^em  wo 
Washing 
sun-set  01 
''eraiPliM 
^o  meat, 
blankets, 
only  had  A 
otherwise  < 
25//J  i 
ftour,  and 
^vhich  the  I 
yet  disco ve 
[f^ey  went. 

When 
village,  we 
[receiving 
[here.     The 
before  whicj 
'ce  in  ad{ 
danced  to  w 
|roops,  and 
pe  gestures! 
mrge.     Tl 
f^ivanced  in  i 
^as  CaracteA 


'('*, 


urch  until 
[iant"Wil- 
5  of  nun, 
,e  o'clock,  I 
:  branch  of  I 
)  informed 
er  the  doc- 
leople,  and  I 
ite ;  consC'l 
ie  informedl 
Lwnees,  the] 
irty  of  3O0 
,.  but  for 

and  passed 

[se  to  be  thel 

Ir  horses  m 

[n  o'clock  on] 

[alf  past  one 
Stream  where 
tq  were  over- 


TO  THU  SOURCES  OF  THE  ARKANSAW,  8cc.     14t 

taken  bf  a  Patmee,  who  encamped  with  us.    He  offered 
his  hone  for  our  use.    Dkrtance  21  miles. 

9^B  Septtmher,  Wednesday, ^-Vft  could  not  find  our 
horsey  until  late,  when  we  marched.  Before  noon  met 
Frank  (who  had  accompanied  Dr.  Robinson  to  the  vil- 
lage) and  three  other  Pawnees,  who  informed  us  that  the 
chief  and  his  party  had  only  arrived  at  the  village  yester- 
day, and  had  dispatched  them  out  in  search  of  us.  BdRare 
three  o*cIock  we  were  joined  by  several  Pawnees :  one  of 
them  wore  a  scarlet  coat,  with  a  small  medal  of  general 
Washington,  and  a  Spanish  medal  also.  We  encamped  at 
sun-set  on  a  middle  sized  branch,  and  were  joined  by  se- 
veral Pawnees  in  the  evening,  who  brought  us  some  buf- 
falo meat.  Here  we  saw  some  mules,  horses,  bridles  and 
blankets,  which  they  obtained  of  the  Spaniards.  Few 
only  had  breech  cloths^  most  being  wrapped  in  buffalo  robes, 
otherwise  quite  naked.    Distance  18  miles. 

'25th  September,  Thursday,— Vfe  marched  at  a  good 
hour,  and  in  about  eight  miles  struck  a  very  large  road  on 
which  the  Spanish  troops  returned  and  on  which  we  could 
yet  discover  the  grass  beaten  down  in  the  direction  which 
they  went. 

When  we  arrived  within  about  three  miles  of  the 

village,  we  were  requested  to  remain,  as  the  ceremcMiy  of 

receiving  the  Osage  into  the  towns  was  to  be  performed 

Ihere.    There  was  a  small  circular  spot,  clear  of  grass, 

efore  which  the  Osage  sat  down.    We  were  a  small  dis- 

nce  in  advance  of  the  Indians.     The  Pawnees  then  ad- 

anced  to  within  a  mile  of  us,  and  halted,  divided  into  two 

roops,  and  came  on  each  flank  at  full"  charge,  making  all 

he  gestures  and  performing  the  manoeuvres  of  a  real  war 

harge.     They  then  encircled  us  around,  and  the  chief 

dvanced  in  the  centre  and  gave  us  his  hand :  his  name 

as  CaracterUh,     Tie  ^as  accompanied  by  his  two  sons 


*i!  <;'    1* 


"I 

"  F   ' '' 

i    1       -In 

t 

143 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE 


f<  v 


%   :ti '  [t 


sM 


i»-,'::5- 


;i!?  1-  ■  ill;?';; 


and  a  chief  by  the  name  of  bkatappe.  The  Osage  were 
still  seated  ;  but  the  Belle  Oiseau  then  rose  and  came  for. 
ward  with  a  pipe,  and  presented  it  to  the  chief,  who  took  a 
whiff  or  two  from  it.  We  then  proceeded  on :  the  chief, 
lieutenant  Wilkinson  and  myself  in  front ;  my  serjeam, 
on  a  white  horse,  next  with  the  colors ;  then  our  horses 
and  baggage,  escorted  by  our  men,  with  the  Pawnees  on 
each  side,  running  races,  &c.  When  w<*  arrived- on  the 
liill  over  the  town  we  were  again  halted,  and  the  Osage 
seated  in  a  row,  when  each  Pawnee  who  intended  so  to  do 
presented  them  with  a  horse,  gave  a  pipe  to  smoke  to  the 
Osage  to  whom  he  had  made  the  present.  In  this  manner 
were  eight  horses  given.  Lieutenant  Wilkinson  then  pro. 
eeeded  on  with  the  party  to  the  river  above  the  town,  and 
encamped.  As  the  chief  had  invited  us  to  his  lodge  to 
eat,  we  thought  it  proper  for  one  to  go.  At  the  lodge  he 
gave  me  many  particulars  which  were  interesting  to  us,  re- 
lative to  the  late  visit  of  the  Spaniards.*    1  went  up  to  our  I 


•  I  will  here  attempt  to  give  some  memoranda  of  this  expedition,  which  w« 
the  most  important  ever  carried  on  from  the  province  of  Kew  Mexico,  and  in  fact 
the  only  one  directed  north>east,  except  that  mentioned  by  the  abbe  Raynal  (in  hu 
history  of  the  Indies)  to  the  Pawnees — of  u  hich  see  a  more  particular  account 
hereafter.     In  the  year  1806  our  affairs  with  Spain  began  to  wear  a  very  serious 
aspect,  and  the  troops  of  the  two  governments  almost  came  to  actual  hostilities  01 
the  frontiers  of  Texas  and   the  Orleans  territory.     At  this  time,  when  matters 
bore  every  appearance  of  coming  to  a  crisis,  I  was  fitting  out  for  my  expedition 
from  St  Louis,  where  some  of  the  Spanish  ->missaries  in  that  country  transmitted  | 
the  information  to  Majar.  Merior  and  the  Spanish  council  at  that  place,  who  im- 
nicdiately  forwarded  on  the  information  to  the  then  commandant  of  Nacogdoches  I 
(captain  Sebastian  Rodreriques),  who  forwarded  it  to  colonel  Cordero,  by  whom  I 
it  was  transmitted  to  the  scat  of  government.     This  information  was  peraonaliyl 
cor.imunicaced  to  me,  as  an  instance  of  the  rapid  means  they  possessed  of  trans- 1 
mitting  the  information  relative  to  the  occurrences  transacting  on  our  frontierij 
The  expedition  was  then  determined  on,  and  had  three  objects  in  view  :  viz.— 

1st.  To  descend  the  Red  river,  in  order,  if  he  met  our  expedition,  to  interccptl 
and  turn  us  back,  or  should  major  Sparks  and  Mr.  Freeman  have  missed  tiie  partifl 
(rom  Nacogdoches,  under  the  command  of  captain  Viana,  to  oblige  them  to  retuinl 
and  not  penetrate  further  into  the  country,  or  make  thcnj  prisoners  of  war. 


TO  THE  SOURCES  OF  THE  ARKANSAW,  8cc.     H3 


;  were 
ae  f  or- 
tooka 
e  chief, 
erjeant, 
•  horses 
rnees  on 
don  the 
.6  Osage 
so  to  do 
>ketothe 
is  manner 
then  pro- 
town,  and 
i  lodge  to 
e  lodge  he 
g  to  us,  re- 
t  up  to  ow  1 


camp  in  the  evening,  having  a  young  Pawnee  with  me 
loaded  with  com  for  my  men.     Distance  twelve  miles. 


2d.  To  explore  and  examine  ^L  the  Internal  parts  of  the  country  from  the 
Qrontiert  of  the  province  of  New  Mexico  to  the  Missouri,  betv^een  the  La  Platte 

3d.  To  visit  the  Tetaus,  Pawnees  republic,  Grand  Pawnees ;  Pawnee  Ma- 
haws  and  Kans  To  the  head  chief  of  each  of  those  nations :  the  commanding  of> 
ficer  bore  flags,  a  commission ;  grand  medal,  and  four  mules ;  and  with  all  of 
whom  he  had  to  renew  the  chains  of  ancient  amity,  which  was  said  to  have  exis- 
ted  between  their  father,  his  most  Catholic  majesty,  and  his  children  the  red  peo* 
pie. 

The  commanding  officers  also  bore  positive  orders  to  oblige  all  parties  or  per* 
sons  in  the  above  specified  countries,  either  to  retire  from  them  into  the  acknow- 
ledged territories  of  the  United  States,  or  to  make  prisoners  of  them  and  conduct 
them  into  the  province  of  N.  Mexico,  l.ieut.  Don  Facundo  Malgares,  the  officer 
selected  from  the  five  internal  provinces,  to  command  this  expedition,  was  an  Euro- 
pean, ^his  uncle,  was  one  of  the  royal  judges  of  the  kingdom  of  New  Spain) 
and  had  distinguished  himself  in  several  long  expeditions  against  the  Appachcsand 
other  Indian  nations,  with  whom  the  Spaniards  were  at  war :  added  to  these  cir- 
comstaiices,  he  was  a  man  of  immense  fortune,  and  generous  in  its  disposal,  al- 
most to  profusion :  possessed  a  liberal  education,  high  sense  of  honor,  and  a  dispo- 
sition formed  for  military  enterprise.  Thi?  officer  marched  from  the  province  of 
Biscay  with  lOO  dragoons  of  the  regular  service,  and  at  Santa  Fe,  (the  place  where 
the  expedition  was  fitted  out  from)  he  was  joined  by  500  of  the  mounted  militia 
of  that  province,  armed  after  the  manner  described  by  my  notes  on  that  subject, 
and  compleatly  equipt  with  ammunition,  &c.  for  six  months ;  each  man  leading 
with  them  .by  order)  two  horses  and  one  mule,  the  whole  number  of  their  beasts 
were  two  thousand  and  seventy  five.  They  descended  the  Red  rivet  233  leagues 
met  the  grand  bands  of  the  Tetaus ;  held  councils  with  them,  then  struck  oif  N. 
£■  and  crossed  the  country  to  the  Atkansiw,  where  lient.  Malgares  left  240  of  his 
I  nen,  with  the  lame  and  tired  horses,  whilst  he  proceeded  on  with  the  rest  to  the 
Pawne^epublic ;  here  he  was  met  by  the  chiefs  and  warriors  of  the  Grand  Paw- 
I  nees ;  held  councils  with  the  two  nations,  and  presented  them  the  flags,  medals, 
I  £cc.  which  were  destined  for  them.  He  did  not  proccd  on  to  the  execution  of  his 
mission  with  the  Pawnee  Mahaws  and  Kans,  as  he  represented  to  me,  from  the 
I  poverty  of  their  horses,  aud  the  discontent  of  his  own  men,  but  as  I  conceive,  from 
the  suspicion  and  discontent  which  began  to  arise  between  the  Spaniards  and  the 
Indians.  The  former  wishing  to  revenge  the  death  of  FUl'uieuve  and  party,  whilst 
Itiie  latter  possessed  all  the  suspicious  of  conscious  villainy  deserving  punfthment. 
I  Malgares  took  .vith  hini  all  the  traders  he  found  there  from  our  country,  some  of 
I  whom  having  been  sent  to  Natchitoches,  were  in  abject  poverty  at  that  place,  ou 
Iniy  arrival,  and  applied  to  me  for  means  to  return  to  St.  I^ouls.  Lieut.  Malgares 
licturncd  to  Santa  Fe  the  of  October,  when  his  militia  was  disbanded,  but  he 
Iremained  in  the  vicinity  of  that  place,  until  wc  were  brouj^ht  in,  when  he,  with 
]iiragoous,  became  our  cscoTt  to  th?  scat  of  government. 

■      "       '      ■     .1* 


?§ 


f 


!l44 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE 

r-  J  .— Wndine  Qvuf  encampment 

noteUgible  as  to  .tuauon^e-ov^^^  ^^  ^ 

rie  hUl.  ''bout  Ar^fo^rtte  o^      ^^  .^^e  for  ,»ov.«<«u 

We  sent  our  "'^'^'f'f^^uoon  twelve  .Kans.amY«l 

About  three  o'-^l"?^  "  *' f  „„ey  that  theyhad  come  to 
atthevUlage,andmformedBar«^ey^  ^lePa^vnees  vUlage. 

meet  us,  hearing  we  were  ^  ^^  eminence,  from 

We  pitched  our  camp  upon  ^^^  ^^^^^  ^^^  „^ 

whence  we  had  "^^  "Itl^y^Athe  chief,  came  to 
^u„g.    Intheevemng  ^""""I^^^ed  together, 
camp'to  give  us  f  °5^' ffjL^roney  Jrivedfromtk 
37»6  S.^«"*^'-' ^^f^^k  4h  Characterish'  and^.^ 
village  about  on^f^'^tTwe  gave  a  dinner.    I  the. 
other  chiefs,  to  ^^°\^j:X  after  which  Ue* 
,nade  an  appropnate  presen  .^  ,hem  to  town, 

nant  Wilkinson  and  fi^^^  and  returned.  Appointed 
where  we  remained  a  lew  no      ,  ^  Q^g^_ 

'     to-morrow  for  the  ■ut«"2 -^d^  a  council  of  the  K» 
,3,.  S^^7^;;^f;fr-S  of  the  pipe  of  peac.| 
and  Osage,  and  made  «^em  ^^     We  receive! 

Two  of  the  Kans  ^peed  to^«X    /  Made  an  oteer« 

a  visit  from  the  ch.ef  of  the  v     g^^^^  ^^^^^^^^ 

tion  on  an  emersion  of  one  01      f  ^  ^^^^ 

.9/*  S.,«*-.  ^^-t'j^rSesent  not'lessthan  40. 

vrfth  the  Pawnees,  at  ^l"^^"  J  ^^^^  were  extremely  inl 

vvarriors,  the  "rcumstanc^  ^^ J^^  ^^^^^  yh 

teresting.    T',e  notes  I  «°j'J'^  ^//by  the  Spanish  gJ 

,^.U  the  Pawnee  >«»°."  7;f;rechl  to  the  differe^ 

vernment,  together  wuh  aU  n^   P  ^^.^  J 

r^ey!£a':^«--^^^^^ 

■   ■       fr.mtheKOvernorof  New  Mexico  ^vasH 

*  tharactcrlsh'8  commission  from  the  go  | 

SanuFc.l5th3uuc,l8o6.  . 


.' 


TO  THE  SOURCES  OF  THE  ARKANSAW,  kc.     145 


had  left  several  of  the  their  flags  in  this  village ;  one  of 
which  was  unfurled  at  the  chief's  door  the  day  of  the  grand 
council,  and  that  amongst  various  demands  and  charges 
I  gave  them,  was,  that  the  saici  flag  should  be  delivered  to 
me,  and  one  of  the  United  States*  flags  be  received  and 
hoisted  in  its  place.  This  probably  was  carrying  the 
pride  of  nations  a  little  too  far,  as  there  had  so  lately  been 
a  large  force  of  Spanish  cavalry  at  the  village,  which  had 
made  a  great  impression  on  the  minds  of  the  young  men, 
as  to  their  power,  consequence,  &c.  which  my  appearance 
with  20  infantry  was  by  no  means  calculated  to  remove. 
After  the  chiefs  had  replied  to  various  parts  of  my  dis- 
course, but  were  silent  as  to  the  flag,  I  again  reiterated  the 
demand  for  the  flag,  "  adding  that  it  was  impossible  for 
"  the  nation  to  have  two  fathers ;  that  they  must  either  be 
***  the  children  of  the  Spaniards  or-  acknowledge  their 
"  American  father."  After  a  silence  of  some  time,  an 
old  man  rose,  went  to  the  door,  and  took  down  the  Spa- 
nish flag,  and  brought  it  and  laid  it  at  my  feet,  and  then 
received  the  American  flag  and  elevated  it  on  the  stafi^, 
which  had  lately  borne  the  standard  of  his  Catholic  ma- 
jesty. This  gave  great  satisfaction  to  the  Osage  and  Kans, 
both  of  whom,  decidedly  avow  themselves  to  be  under 
•and  coundBthe  American  protection.  Perceiving  that  every  face  in 
ess  than  4O0B[he  council  was  clouded  with  sorrow,  as  if  some  great  na» 
xtremely  injional  calamity  was  about  to  befal  them,  I  tbok  up  the  con- 
council  heliBested  colors,  and  told  them  "  that  as  they  had  now  shewn 
Spanish  go-B'  themselves  dutiful  children  in  acknowledging  their  great 
the  differenW'  American  father,  1  did  not  wish  to  embarrass  them 
erve  here  OW  ^vith  the  Spaniards,  for  it  was  the  wish  of  the  Americans 
that  their  red  brethren  should  remain  peaceably  round 
their  own  fires,  and  not  embroil  themselves  in  any  dis- 
putes between  the  white  people :  and  that  for  fear  the 
Spaniards  might  return  there  in  force  again,  I  returned 


tment 
;p»i- 

illage. 
vision. 
iLtrived 
•ome  to 

vilUge. 
e,  from 
as  tram- 
cajneto 

from  the 
and  three 
:,    I  then 
jch  Ueute- 
1  to  tovm, 
Appointed 

Osage. 
oftheKans 

of  peace 

e  receivei 

an  obsem- 


?V 


tes 


the  Spaniard 


McxifO  was 


dat(| 


ii-y 


[^ 


•{■  X 


iu 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE 


mh!^, 


"  them  their  flag,  but  ^vith  an  mjunction  that  it  should 
**  never  be  hoisted  during  our  stay."  At  this  there  was 
a  general  shout  of  applause  and  the  charge  particularly  at* 
tended  to, 

30th  September,  Tuesday^-^Rem^ed  all  day  at  the 
camp  but  sent  Barpney  to  own,  who  informed  me  on  his 
return  that  the  chief  apprarf-d  to  wish  to  thro  »v  great  ob- 
stacles in  our  way.  A  ^;reut  disturbance  had  taken  place 
in  the  village,  owing  to  one  of  the  young  Pawnees  who 
lately  came  from  the  United  States,  (Frank)  having  taken 
the  wife  of  an  Osage  and  ran  away  with  her.  The  chief, 
in  whose  lodge  the  Osage  put  up,  was  extremely  en- 
raged, considering  it  a  breach  of  hospitality  to  a  person 
imder  his  roof,  and  threatened  to  kill  Frank  if  he  caught 
him. 

■1st  October,  Wednesday. — ^Paid  a  visit  to  town,  and  had 
a  very  long  conversation  with  the  chief,  who  urged  every 
thing  in  his  power  to  induce  us  to  turn  back.  Finally,  be 
very  candidly  told  us  that  the  Spaniards  wished  to  have 
gone  flirther  into  our  country,  but  he  induced  them  to 
give  up  the  idea — that  they  had  listened  to  him  and  he 
wished  us  to  do  the  same— that  he  had  promised  the  Spa> 
niards  to  act  as  he  now  did,' and  that  we  must  proceed  no 
further,  or  he  must  stop  us  by  force  of  arms.  My  reply] 
was,  "  that  I  had  been  sent  out  by  our  great  father  to  ex. 
plore  the  western  country,  to  visit  all  his  red  children,  | 
to  make  peace  between  them,  and  turn  them  from  shed- 
"  ding  blood ;  that  he  might  see  how  I  had  caused  thel 
**  Osage  and  Kans  to  meet  to  smoke  the  pipe  of  peace! 
*'  together,  and  take  each  other  by  the  hands  like  brol 
thers ;  that  as  yet  my  road  had  been  smooth,  and  a  bluel 
sky  over  our  heads,  I  had  not  seen  any  blood  in  ouif 
paths  ;  but  he  must  know  that  the  young  warriors  o| 
his  great  American  father  were  not  women  to  be  tumej 


« 


iC 


(( 


(( 


(( 


(( 


«h 
**w 

"de 

«wc 

"bo] 

"  spij 

*'  war 

tunied 

2d 

Kans  t] 

ping  us 

me,  anc 

my  bra 

time  tha 

ior  hors( 

aMrmed 

speed,  bi 

with  fierc 

gree  of  ir 

that  alj  th] 

themselve 
dieted !  f 
&c. 

3d  C\ 

menced. 
press. 

4ithOL 

Ae  villagel 

goods  frof 

infor^atioj 

people,  hac 

general  joj 

vanced  nor 


at  the 
onlu8 
eat  ob- 
a  place 
les  who 
g  taken 
le  chief, 
lely  en- 
a  person 
le  caught 

,  and  had 

ged  ever^' 

Finally,  ^« 
ed  to  have  I 

td  them  to  I 
im  and  hej 
ed  the  Spa- 
proceed  no  I 
My  reply  I 
ather  to  ei- 
ed  cluldren,! 
I  from  shedl 
caused  the] 
pe  of  peace! 
idshkebrol 
.i,  and  a  blue! 
Ibloodinoutf 
warriors  ol 
to  be  turnel 


TO  THE  SOURCES  OF  THE  ARKANSAW,  8ic.     U7 

*<  back  by  words,  that  I  should  therefore  proceed,  and  if 
**  he  thought  proper  to  stop  me,  he  could  attempt  it ;  but 
**  we  were  men,  well  armed,  and  would  sell  our  lives  at  a 
"  dear  rate  to  his  nationr—that  we  knew  our  great  father 
**  would  send  our  young  warriors  there  to  gather  our 
**  bones  and  revenge  our  deaths  on  his  people— when  our 
<*  spirits  would  rejoice  in  hearing  our  exploits  sung  in  the 
<(  war  songs  of  our  chiefs."  I  then  left  his  lodge  and  re- 
turned to  camp  in  considerable  perturbatio?i  of  mind. 

2d  October,  Thursday* — We  received  advice  from  our 
Kans  that  he  chief  had  given  publicity  to  his  idea  of  stop- 
ping us  by  force  of  arms,  wl^iich  gave  serious  reflecdons  to 
me,  and  was  productive  of  many  singular  expressions  from 
my  brave  lads,  which  called  for  my  esteem  at  the  same 
time  that  they  excited  my  laughter.  Attempted  to  trade 
for  horses  but  could  not  succeed.  In  the  night  we  were 
alarmed  by  some  savages  coming  near  our  camp  in  full 
speed,  but  they  retreated  equally  rapid,  on  being  hailed 
with  fierceness  by  our  sentinels.  This  created  some  de- 
gree of  indignation  in  my  little  band,  as  we  had  nodced 
that  all  the  day  had  passed  without  any  traders  presenting 
themselves,  which  appeared  as  if  all  in*:ercourse  was  inter- 
dicted !  !  Writing  to  the  set^etary  at  war,  the  general, 
&c. 

3d  October,  Friday.-^-The  intercourse  again  com- 
menced. Traded  for  some  horses.  Writing  for  my  ex- 
press. 

4ith  October,  Saturday. — ^Two  French  traders  arrived  at 
the  village  in  order  to  procure  horses  to  transport  their 
goods  from  the  Missouri  to  the  village.  They  gave  us 
information  that  captains  Lewis  and  Clark,  with  all  their 
people,  had  descended  the  river  to  St.  Louis :  this  diffused 
general  joy  through  our  party.  Our  trade  for  horses  ad- 
vanced none  this  day. 


!^  'i'\'\ 


I       -i 


>^ 


i\\mi 


^ '' 


,        JOUBNAL  0»  A  VOYAGE  ^ 

'*•  .^., -Buying  h'«««-^'P^^ 

^ch,  and  finishing  -ny  >«te^  express.*  P«r. 

""  eriOrt^r.  A^'"«'''^-'^''r^hol  the  morrow. 

one,  -«>"»«''^=''r^:f^.^,we  had  m.de  every  ar- 
III  to  stop  .s  by  f'-^^f  ;'X'„fa  the  at.er:.pt -PO- 
^g«nent  to  '^^"^^^.f^,  ^  n^rched  o. by 
«ble.    The  pany  ^:'f  ^'^['  ^;  ^^  ,i,at  if  attacked  .he  sa- 
,  road  round  the  'f^P^  '^^^  ,„  „    „  for  cover.    1 
,,,es  would  not  '"«*^/^,a  ^thin  five  or  sb.  pac«. 
had  giv;^  orf-^  "tiA  tte  ^yonet  and  sabre,*h- 1  be- 
3„dthento  ch^e'^'^t'r'em  at  least  100  men  to  have  ex. 
Ueve  it  woiJd  have  cost  them  at  ^^^^^  ,j^^  ,^ 

terminated  '.s  («Wch  *ould  toe  be  ^^  ^.,  ^^^ 

Ifge  appeared  f  "  ^-^a^b"^. -«Vt«  -d  - 
i,age  of  the  chief,  ""t"^^  J  „J  serious  attempt  to  be 
Jier,  but  soon  ^''^  ^^^^^^en  were  walking  abou 
^e,  although  ""-y  1'°"°f,„d  lances.  Afnr  speaking 
^th  their  bows,  arows,  g"°?^^^^^^„,,,  j  told  him  that 
^.he  chief  with  apparent  .n*n«  ^^^.hatl 

Calculated  on  his  justice  m  ««         ^^  ^^  ^._^j^^ 
should  leave  a  man  unU^  tg  J         ^        ^, 
bring  him  out.    We  then  ,ome  ^^  ^^^  y, 

'^rfoute:  «henlwas  once  '^'^^^^^^  relieved 
,,hich  overlooks  the  v,lhge,UeU     y   ^^.^  ^  „ 

^-"  a  ''*='^2TStb«^e  instrument  in  the  hands 
p^«;nff^  was  that  I  nugu 

•  Sec  Appendix  to  part  II.  I 


TO  T 

of  our  goi 
j/ro«^  bam 
now  consis 
interpreter 
v/'irricjfs, 
brand;,  dis 
in.     Rant : 


TO  THE  SOURCES  OF  THE  ARKANSAW,  8cc.     149 


vo  of 
•cH  of 

,er  lost 
threat- 
rery  ar* 

aspos. 
don  by 
I  the  sa. 
over.     » 
ix  paces, 
\\eM  1  be* 
I  have  ex. 
,■)  the  vilr 
up  to  the 

and  one 
impt  to  be 
ing  about 
r  speaking 

him  that  I 
,  and  that  1 
,  o'clock  to 
nd  pursued 

of  the  hill 
i  if  relieved 

wished  the 
in  the  hands 

page.  43- 


of  our  government,  to  open  their  ears  and  eyes  with  a 
strong  band,  to  convince  them  of  our  power.  Our  party 
now  consisted  of  two  officers,  one  doctor,  18  soldiers,  one 
terpreter,  three  Osage  men  and  one  woman,  making  25 


m 


V nrncrs.  We  marched  out  and  encamped  on  a  small 
brand;,  ^'stant  seven  miles,  on  the  same  route  we  came 
in.     RoT;  m  the  night. 

8t/j  October,  Wednesday. — ^I  conceived  it  best  to  send 
Baroney  back  to  the  village  with  a  present,  to  be  offered 
forovr  h  rse,  the  chief  having  suggested  the  propriety  of 
the  msasure ;  he  met  his  son  and  the  horse  with  Sparks. 
Marched  at  ten  o'clock,  and  at  four  o'clock  came  to  the 
place  where  the  Spanish  troops  encamped  the  first  night 
they  left  the  Pawnee  village.  Their  encampment  was 
circular,  and  having  only  small  fires  round  the  circle  to 
cook  by.     We  counted  59  fires ;  now  if  we  allowed  six 

men  to  each  fire,  they  must  have  been  354  in  number 

We  encamped  on  a  large  branch  of  the  second  fork  of  the 
Kans  river.     Distance  18  miles. 

9th  October,  Thursday. — Marched  at  eight  o'clock, 
|b*!ing  detained  until  that  time  by  our  horses  being  at  a 
great  distance.  At  eleven  o'clock  we  found  the  forks  of 
[the  Spanish  and  Pawnee  roads,  and  when  we  halted  at 
twelve  o'clock,  we  were  overtaken  by  the  second  chief  (or 
(skatappe)  and  the  American  chief  with  one-third  of  the 
tillage.  They  presented  us  vtith  a  piece  of  bear  meat.  When 
^e  were  about  to  march,  we  discovered  that  the  dirk  of 
[he  doctor  had  been  stolen  from  behind  his  saddle ;  after 
larching  the  men  the  doctor  and  myself,  with  the  inter- 
)reter,  went  to  the  chief  and  "  demanded  that  he  should 
cause  a  search  to  be  made ;"  it  was  done,  but  when  the 
(irk  was  found,  the  possessor  asserted  that  he  had  found 
on  the  road ;  I  told  him  "  that  he  did  not  speak  the 
truth,"  and  informed  the  chief  that  we  never  sufFei*ed  a 


^  f 


V  -t 


?     1' 


150 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE 


I  j'i 


w  hi 


thing  of  ever  so  little  value  to  be  taken  without  liberty. 
At  this  time  the  prairie  was  covered  with  his  men,  who 
began  to  encircle  us  around,  and  lieutenant  Wilkinson 
with  the  troops  had  gained  half  a  mile  on  the  road.  The 
Indiian  demanded  a  knife  before  he  would  give  it  up ;  but 
as  we  refused  to  give  any,  the  chief  took  one  from  his  belt 
and  gave  him,  took  the  dirk  and  presented  it  to  the  doc- 
tor, who  immediately  returned  it  to  the  chief  as  a  present, 
and  desired  Baroney  to  inform  him  he  now  saw  it  was  not 
the  value  of  the  article  but  the  act  we  despise,  and  then 
galloped  off.  In  about  ?  mile  we  discovered  a  herd  of  elk 
which  we  pursued  ;  they  took  back  in  sight  of  the  Paw- 
nees, who  immediately  mounted  50  or  60  young  men  and 
joined  in  the  pursuit ;  then  for  the  first  time  in  my  life,  I 
saw  animals  slaughtered  by  the  true  savages,  with  their 
original  weapons,  bows  and  arrows ;  they  buried  the  arrow 
up  to  the  plume  in  the  animal.  We  took  a  piece  of  meat 
and  pursued  our  party  :  we  overtook  them  and  encamped 
within  the  Grand  or  Solomon  Fork,  which  we  crossed  on 
the  23d  September,  (lower  down)  on  our  route  to  the 
Pawnees.  This  was  the  Spanish  encamping  ground.  In 
the  evening  two  Pawnees  came  to  our  camp,  who  had  not 
eaten  for  three  days;  two  of  which  they  had  carried] 
sick  companion  whom  they  had  left  that  day ;  we  gave 
them  supper,  some  meat  and  com,  and  they  immediately 
departed  in  order  to  carry  their  sick  companion  this  sei 
sonable  supply.  When  they  were  coming  into  camp,  thj 
centinel  challenged,  it  being  dark ;  they  immediately  (oii| 
seeing  him  bring  his  piece  to  the  charge)  supposing  he 
about  to  lire  on  them,  advanced  to  give  him  their  handi 
he,  however,  not  well  discerning  their  motions,  was  oi 
the  point  of  firing,  but  being  a  cool  collected  little  fellow, 
called  out  that  there  were  two  Indians  advancing  on  hii 
and  if  he  should  fire ;  this  brought  out  the  guard,  wh 


halted 

the  Pa 

who  h 

road,  a 

a  large 

from  t 

west:  \ 

to  proc< 

at  eight 

nothing 

but  they 

the  dists 

water,     i 

to  find  th 
doctor  ai 
found  all 
which  wa 
to  our  car 
Spanish  tri 
n-.ent  on  t 
twelve  o'c 
saline.    I 
camp  until 
i^istance  i 

'one  Osage 
*oman  oft 


liberty, 
en,  who 
rUkinson 
d.     The 
up*,  but 
nalusbelt 
0  the  doc- 
a  present, 
it  was  not 
I,  and  then 
herd  of  elk 
f  the  Pav. 
ig  men  and 
n  my  life,  1 
3,  with  theii 
ed  the  arrow 
,iece  of  meat 
id  encamped' 
e  crossed  on 
route  to  thel 
[ground.    ^1 
who  had  not 
lad  carried  al 
ly  •,  we  gavel 
immcdiatel]! 
lion  this  sei'l 
ito  camp,  M 
lediately  (oii| 
jsing  he 
their  hands 
|tions,  was  oi 
_  little  felH 
[icing  on  hit 
guard,  vrh« 


TO  THE  SOURCES  OF  THE  ARKANSAW,  Sec.     15 1 

the  poor  affrighted  savages  were  brought  into  camp,  very 
much  alarmed,  for  they  had  not  heard  of  a  white  man's 
being  within  their  country,  and  thought  they  were  enterr 
ing  one  of  the  camps  of  their  own  people.  Distance  18 
miles.  ,  ^ 

lOth  October,  Friday, — ^Marched  at  seven  oV  jck  and 
halted  at  twelve  o'clock  to  dine.  Were  overtaken  by 
the  Pawnee  chiefs,  whose  party  we  left  the  day  before; 
who  informed  us  the  hunting  party  had  taken  another 
road,  and  that  he  had  come  to  bid  us  good  by.  We  left 
a  large  ridge  on  our  left,  and  at  sun  down  crossed  it.... 
From  this  place  we  had  an  extensive  view  of  the  south- 
west: we  observed  a  creek  at  a  distance,  for  which  I  meant 
to  proceed.  The  doctor,  interpreter,  and  myself,  arrived 
at  eight  o'clock  at  night ;  found  water  and  wood,  but  had 
nothing  to  eat.  Kindled  a  Hre  in  order  to  guide  the  party, 
but  they  not  being  able  to  find  the  route,  and  not  knowing 
the  distance,  encamped  on  the  prairie  without  wood  or 
water. 

lltb  October,  Saturday. — Ordered  Baroney  to  return 
to  find  the  party  and  conduct  them  to  our  camp.  The 
doctor  and  myself  went  out  to  hunt,  and  on  our  return 
found  all  our  people  had  arrived,  except  the  rear  guard, 
which  was  in  sight.  Whilst  we  halted  five  Pawnees  came 
lo  our  camp  and  brought  some  bones  of  a  horse  which  the 
Spanish  troops  had  been  obliged  to  eat,  at  their  encamp- 
ment on  this  creek  j  we  took  up  our  line  of  march  at 
twelve  o'clock,  and  at  sun-down  the  party  halted  on  the 
saline.  I  was  in  pursuit  of  buffalo  and  did  not  make  the 
camp  until  n>  ar  ten  o'clock  at  night.  Killed  one  buffalo. 
Distance  12  miles. 

12tb  October,  Sunday, — Here  the  Belle  Oiseau  and 
I  one  Osage  left  us,  and  there  remained  only  one  man  and 
woman  of  that  nation — their  reason  for  leaving  us  was  that 


ffs;! 


I  ^ 


hi 
i 


\ 


P] 


JOOBNAU  OF  A  VOY/  -E 


1 

ill™ 


M 


I 


*■! 


>tSm 


*1 


.        ,  ,Ad  thev  desired  to  be»f 
„„  course  bore  too  much  ""t.  and^^^V  ^^^  ^^„. 

lore  for  the  bunting  g7"^£^^„^"f  »d  laid  by  until 
i„g  sent  out  to  obtam  the  buftalo  me^ ,  ^^^  ^^. 

Tier  breakfast.    P'-f  ^f '^^^  p»sed  two  camp 
L  the  river  two  "  *'f"^^;,  Here  they  appeared  to, 
XretheSpanishtroopshadh^U^l.  H^^  J^^  ^  ^^ 

bave  remained  ^'""^  <^?;;;^uffalo  that  we  lost  theme., 
blended  with  the  traces  «'*«;""        ^^^ehad  reasonto 

calculate,  that  they  >«dgood^f^;^»  ^^^^^  ^ 
route  for  wood  »>d  «ater.  ^^^^^  ,„  ,„fc 

uon,and  before  night,  «"«'        ^uch  to  our  surpr^e, 

.hei;  roads  on  the  loft,  ^^^J^^  ^a  Touche  de  la  Cot. 
struck  the  east  fork  ot  the  Kans  3^1,3. 

Bucanieus.    Killed  one  buffafc^  »  ^„y,  „e  did 

,  3/A  0<:/<.fer,  A^»'^''^r  h  '  it  Ling  »n  »PP"'^="" 
no,  ..rch  until  two  o'clock,  wh^^n  u  h    m^g^^^  P^  ^^^^^ 

of  clearing  off.  we  raised  ow  camp  a  ^^  ^  ^^^^^^^  , 

ed  seven  ™Yr\tw«VmUes  for  water.    Kiiled| 
the  river  we  Ht.     nau  i   &  ^ 

onecabrie*  it  havine  drizzled  rain  all 

H</.0.»*..  "^,-;;Sobscured.wedii 

night,  and  the  atmosph^;e  b;'"^^^  nine  o'clock,  and  cc»^ 

not  march  until  a  '^"^'';'P.J„e  between  the  Kans and 

fenced  crossing  ^^^^ l:;^^^^^^,^.  of  the  latter  a. 
Arkansaw  rivers.    Aiuvea  ^^^^^^^^^      , 

one  o'clock-,  '^"""""f  ,f  "r^  "d  on  the  prarie.  wtod. 
after  du»k,  when  we  f^r^J^f  ^;,  „„t  come  op,  W 
induced  us  to  haU.     ^parks  a  bounded 

scarcely  able  to  walk  -"un^      P,^^„.    Kstanc. 
several  bullalo,  but  could  get  none 
84  miles.  ,    .1,.  morning  road  ouil 

„      ,,,,  0^fr,mnes^X^^^^^^  the  fow  prairie 

in  search  of  the  south  trace,  an  ^ 


TO 

which  w: 

discover 

in  search 

o'clock. 

march,  ai 

the  party 

wood  to  1 

der  to  ses 

Killed   tv 

them,  to  I 

party.     C 

campmeni 

some  mih 

and  then  s 

16th 

ceeded  up 

but  at  twe 

a  great  ms 

tion  taken 

and  again 

creek  to  t! 

began  to  b 

more  buff; 

tuously  or 

\1th 

search  the 

nied  by  a  ( 

without  be 

sensations 

sonal  safet 

IJects  inten( 

our  own  si 

|more  than 

iin  the  neai 


ted  rain  all 
jed,  wedii' 
^,  and  ccm- 
leKansatwll 
he  latter  atl 
water,  until! 
jrarie,  whicli 

le  up,  being! 
■\^oundedl 
n.    Distance] 

ing  road  oui 
e  low  prairie 


TO  THE  SOURCES  OK  THE  ARKANSAW,  kc.     153 

which  was  nearly  all  covered  with  ponds,  but  could  not 
discover  it.  Finding  Sparks  did  not  arrive,  sent  two  men 
in  search  q{  him,  who  arrived  with  him  about  eleven 
o'clock.  At  twelve  o'clock  we  commenced  our  line  of 
march,  and  at  five  o'clock.  Dr.  Robinson  and  myself  left 
the  party  at  a  large  creek  (having  pointed  out  a  distant 
wood  to  lieutenant  Wilkinson  for  our  encampment)  in  er. 
der  to  search  some  distance  up  it  for  the  Spanish,  trace. 
Killed  two  buffalo  and  left  part  of  our  clothiifg  with 
them,  to  scare  away  the  wolves.  Went  in  pursuit  of  the 
party.  On  our  arrival  at  the  creek  appointed  for  the  en- 
campment,, did  not  find  them.  Proceeded  down  it  for 
some  miles,  and  not  finding  them,  encamped,  struck  fire, 
and  then  supped  on  one  of  our  buffalo  tongues. 

I6tb October,  Thursday. — Early  on  horseback*,  pro- 
ceeded up  the  creek  some  distance  in  search  of  our  party, 
but  at  twelve  o'clock  crossed  to  our  two  buffaloes ;  found 
a  great  many  wolves  at  them,  notwithstanding  the  precau- 
tion taken  to  keep  them  off.  Cooked  some  marrow  bones 
and  again  mounted  our  horses,  and  proceeded  down  the 
creek  to  their  junction.  Finding  nothing  of  the  party,  I 
began  to  be  seriously  alarmed  for  their  safety.  Killed  two 
more  buffalo,  made  our  encampment  and  feasted  sump- 
tuously on  the  marrow-bones.     Rain  in  the  night. 

17//»  October,  Friday. — Rose  6arly,  determining  to 
search  the  creek  to  its  source.  Very  hard  rain,  accompa- 
nied by  a  cold  north-west  all  day.  Encamped  near  night 
without  being  able  to  discover  any  signs  of  the  party.  Our 
sensations  now  became  excruciating,  not  only  for  their  per- 
sonal safety,  but  the  fear  of  the  failure  of  ihe  national  ob- 
[jects  intended  to  be  accomplished  by  the  expedition ;  and 
our  own  situation  was  not  the  most  agreeable,  not  having 
|more  than  four. rounds  of  ammunition  each,  and  400  miles 
|in  the  nearest  direction  from  the  first  civilized  inhabitant ; 

V 


w  '■:: 


%:>■. 


1S4 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE 


\i  *  '■ ' ' 


we,  hcywever,  concluded  to  search  for  them  on  the  n^or.' 
row,  and  if  we  did  not  succeed  in  finding  them,  to  stri' .. 
the  Arkansaw,  where  we  were  in  hopes  to  discover  some 
ti^ces,  if  not  cut  off  by  the  savages. 

IStb  October,  Saturday.^^CommexiQed  our  route  at  a 
good  time,  and  about  ten  o'clock,  discovered  two  men  on 
horse-back  in  search  of  us,  (one  my  waiter ;)  they  informed 
us  the  party  was  encamped  on  the  Arkansaw,  about  three 
miles  south  of  where  we  then  were :  this  surprised  us 
very  much  as  we  had  no  conception  of  that  river  being  so 
near.  On  our  arrival  were  met  by  lieutenant  Wilkinson, 
who  with  all  the  party  was  greatly  concerned  for  our 
safety.  The  Arkansaw,  on  the  party's  arrival,  had  not 
water  in  it  six  inches  deep,  and  the  stream  was  not  more 
than  20  feet  wide,  but  the  rain  of  the  two  days  covered 
all  the  bottom  of  the  river,  which  in  this  place  is  450 
yards  from  bank  to  bank,  which  are  not  more  than  four 
feet  in  height,  bordered  by  a  few  cotton^wood  trees  on  the 
north  side  by  a  low  swampy  prairie,  on  the  south  by  a 
sandy  sterile  desert  at  a  small  distance.  In  the  afternoon 
the  doctor  and  myself  took  our  horses  and  crossed  the 
Arkansaw,  in  order  to  search  for  some  trees  which  might 
answer  the  purpose  to  make  canoes ;  found  but  one  and 
returned  at  dusk.  It  commenced  raining  at  12  o'clock  at 
night. 

19tb  October  J  Sunday.'-^Vmding  the  river  rising  n. 

pidly,  I  thought  it  best  to  secure  our  passage  over,  we 

consequently  made  it  good  by  ten  o'clock,  A.  M.     Rain 

'  all  day.     Preparing  our  tools  and  arms  for  labor  and  the  j 

chase  on  the  morrow.  ' 

20tb  October,   Monday.— ^Commenced  our  labor  at  I 
two  trees  for  canoes,  but  one  proved  too  much  doated.... 
Killed  two  bufialo  and  one  cabrie.     Discharged  our  guns  I 
Ht  a  mark,  the  best  shot  a  pri;ze  of  one  tent  and  a  pair  of  I 


5  fCiOt- 

:  some 

lite  at  % 

men  on 

[^formed 

>ut  three 

irised  us 

being  so 

rilkinson, 

I  for  our 

,  had  not 
not  more 

rs  covered 

ce  is  450 

5  than  four 

pees  on  the 
south  by  a 
,  afternoon 
:rossed  the 
rhich  migbt 
)Ut  one  and 
o'clock  at 

Ir  rising  n^  I 

Tc  over,  vfe 

r.M.    Rain] 

Iborandthel 

jur  labor  at  I 

Ich  doated.-l 

\ed  our  gunsi 

and  a  pair  ot 


TO  THE  SOURCES  OF  THE  ARKANSAW,  fcc.    lii 

shoes.  Our  only  dog,  was  standing  at  tho  root  of  the  tree, 
in  the  grass,  and  one  of  the  bails,  struck  him  on  the  head 
and  killed  him.     C^^ased  raining  about  12  o'clock. 

21  Jt  October,  Tuesday,'— Doctor  Robinson  and  my- 
self mounted  our  horses,  in  order  to  go  down  the  river  to 
the  entrance  of  the  three  last  creeks^  we  had  crossed  on 
our  rout,  but  meeting  with  bu£falo,  we  killed  four  i  also, 
one  cabrie.     Returned  to  camp  and  sent  for  the  meat. 

22d  October,  Wednesday,— Hdiymg  sat  up^ery  late  last 
evening,  expecting  the  sergeant,  and  party  (who  did  not 
arrive)  we  were  very  anxious  for  them,  but  about  10 
o'clock  Bradley  arrived  and  informed  us,  that  they  could 
not  find  the  buffalo,  which  we  had  killed  on  the  prairie, 
they  all  arrived  before  noon,  and  in  the  afternoon  we  scaf- 
folded some  meat  and  nearly  compleated  the  frame  of  a  skin 
Canoe,  which  we  concluded  to  build ;  overhauled  my  in. 
struments  and  made  some  rectifications  preparatory  to  tak- 
ing an  observation  &c. 

23d  October,  Thursday. — ^Dr.  Robinson  and  myself, 
accompanied  by  one  man,  ascended  the  river  with  an  inten- 
tion of  searching  the  Spanish  trace ;  at  the  same  time,  we 
dispatched  Baroney  and  our  two  hunters  to  kill  some  buf- 
falo, to  obtain  the  skins  for  canoes.  We  ascended  the 
river,  about  20  miles  to  a  large  branch  on  the  right ;  just 
at  dusk  gave  chase  to  a  buffalo  and  was  obliged  to  shoot 
nineteen  balls  into  him,  before  we  killed  him.  Encamped 
in  the  fork. 

24  October,  FriJay.'^'We  assended  the  right  branch 
about  five  miles,  but  could  not  see  any  sign  of  the  Spanish 
trace  j  this  is  not  surprizing,  as  the  river  bears  south 
west,  and  they  no  doubt  kept  more  to  the  west  from  the 
head  of  one  branch  to  another.  We  returned  and  on 
our  way,  killed  some  prairie  squirrels,  or  wishtonwislies, 


■I  -l 


'I:   'I: 


I      ; 


'li. 

lii     ,      If 

|56 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE 


and  nine  large  rattle  snakes,  which  frequent  theur  villages.*^ 
On  our  am'val,  found  the  hunters  had  come  in  a  boat, 
one  hour,  with  two  budTalo  and  one  elk  skin. 


*  The  Wjshtonwish  of  the  Indians,  prairie  dogs  of  some  travellers';  or  squir- 
rels as  I  fhoul^  be  inclined  to  denominate  them;  reside  on  the  prairies  of  Louisiana 
in  towns  or  villages,  having  ao  fvident  police  established  in  their  communities. 
The  sites  of  their  towns  are  generally  on  the  brow  of  a  hill,  near  some  creek  or 
pond,  in  order  to  be  convenient  to  water,  and  that,  the  high  ground  which  they 
inhabit,  may  not  be  subject  to  inundation  Their  residence,  being  under  ground, 
is  burrowed  out,  and  the  earth  which  answers  the  double  purpose  of  keeping  out 
the  water,  and  affording  an  elevated  place  in  wet  seasons  to  repose  on,  and  to  give 
thehi  a  further  and  more  cistinct  view  of  the  country.  'I'heir  holes  descend  in  a 
spiral  form,  therefore  I  could  never  ascertain  their  depth;  but  I  once  had  140  ket- 
tles of  water  pored  into  one  of  them  in  order  to  drive  out  the  occupant,  but  with- 
out effect.  lu  the  cii'cuit  of  the  villages,  they  clear  off  all  the  grass,  and  leave  the  ^ 
earth  bare  of  vegetation  ;  but  whether  it  is  from  an  instinct  they  possess  inducing 
them  to  keep  the  ground  thus  cleared,  or  whether  they  make  use  of  the  herbagci 
as  food,  I  cannot  pretend  to  determine.  The  latter  opinion,  I  think  entitled  to  a 
preference,  as  their  teeth  designates  them  to  be  of  the  granivorous  species,  and  1 
know  of  no  other  substance  which  i .  produced  in  the  vicinity  of  their  positiooi, 
on  which  they  could  subsist ;  and  they  never  cxfind  their  excursions  more  than 
half  a  mile  from  the  burrows.  They  are  of  a  dark  brown  color,  except  their  bel 
lies,  which  are  white.  Their  tails  are  not  ao  long  as  those  of  our  grey  squirrelsi 
but  are  shaped  precisely  like  theirs ;  their  teeth,  head,  nails,  and  body,  are  the 
perfect  squirrel,  except  that  they  are  getietally  fatter  than  that  animal.  Their 
villages  sometimes  extend  over  two  and  three  miles  square,  in  whyih  there  must  be 
uinumerable  hosts  of  them,  as  there  is  generally  a  burrow  every  ten  steps  in 
which  there  are  two  or  more,  and  you  see  new  ones  partly  excavated  on  all  the 
borders  of  the  towti.  We  killed  great  numbers  of  them  with  our  rifles  and  fovnd 
them  excellent  meat,  after  they  were  exposed  a  night  or  two  to  the  frost,  by 
which  means  tlie  rankness  acquired  by  their  subteranneous  dwelling  is  corrected. 
As  you  approach  their  towns,  you  are  saluted  on  all  sides  by  the  cry  of  WishtonVvish, 
from  which  they  derive  their  name  with  the  Indians,  uttered  in  a  shrill  and 
piercing  manner  You  then  observe  them  all  retreating  to  the  entrance  of  their 
burrows,  where  they  post  themselves,  and  regard  every,  even  the  slightest,  move- 
ment that  you  make.  It  requires  a  very  nice  shot  with  a  rifle  to  kill  them,  as  thtj 
must  be  killed  (fead,  for  as  long  as  life  exists,  they  continue  to  work  into  their  cells. 
It  is  extremely  dangerous  to  pass  through  their  towns,  as  they  abound  with  rat- 
tle snakes,  both  of  the  yellow  and  black  species  ;  and  strange  as  it  may  appear,  I 
have  seen  the  Wishtonwish,  the  rattle  snake,  the  horn  'rog,  of  which  the  prairie 
abounds,  termed  by  the  Spaninrds  the  cammcllion,  from  their  taking  no  visible 
sustenance)  and  a  land  tortoise  all  take  refuge  in  the  same  hole.  I  do  not  pretend 
to  assert,  that  it  was  their  common  place  of  resort,  hut  1  liave  witnessed  the  above 

facts  more  than  in  one  instance, 

■  ■♦■■.-  .-  ■ ,  ,       ...    - 


i  1 


r  squir- 

jtinities> 
creek  or 

r  ground, 
eptng  out 
id  to  give 
jscend  in  i 
di4oket- 
^  butwith- 
d  leave  the, 
58  inducing 
he  herbage. 
;ntitled  to  a 
jecici,  audi 
eir  posltionj. 
ns  more  than 
ept  their  bel 
;rc7  squirreUi 
,ody,  a«  the 
imal.    Their 
there  roust  be 
ten  steps  in 
^d  on  all  the 
fles  and  fo«nd 
the  frost,  bj 
is  corrected. 
■Wishtonivish, 
a  shrill  and 
ranee  of  theit 
ijlhtest,  move- 
thcm,  as  they 
into  their  cells. 
,uml  vsith  rat- 
may  appear,  1 
lich  the  pra>r'« 
.ing  no  visible 
do  not  pretend 
lesscd  the  above 


TO  THE  SOURCES  OF  THE  ARKANSAW,  &c.     157 

25th  October,  Saturday,^'Took  an  observation,  pass- 
ed the  day  in  writing,  and  preparing  for  the  departure  of 
Lt.  Wilkinson. 

26/i&  October y  Swwdiry.— Delivered  out  a  ration  of  com 
by  way  of  distinction  of  the  Sabbath.    Preparing  for  our   ' 
departure. 

21th  October,  Monday,'  -Delivered  to  lieutenant  Wil' 
kinson,  letters  for  the  general  and  our  friends,*  with  other 
paper"  consisting  of  his  instructions,  traverse  tables  of  our 
voyage  and  a  draught  of  our  route,  to  that  place  complete; 
in  order  that  if  we  were  lost,  and  he  arrived  in  safety ;  we 
might  not  have  made  the  tour,  without  some  benefit  to  our 
country.  He  took  with  him  in  corn  and  meat,  21  days 
provisions  and  all  the  necessary  tools,  to  build  canoes  or 
cabbins.  Launched  his  canoes.  We  concluded,  we 
would  separate  in  the  morning.  He  to  descend  and  we  to 
ascend  to  the  mountains. 

28th  October,  Tuesday. — As  soon  as  possible,  all  was 
in  motion,  my  party  crossing  the  river  to  the  north  side, 
and  lieutenant  Wilkinson,  launching  his  canoes  of  skins 
and  wood.  We  breakfasted  together,  and  then  filed  off  j 
but  I  suffered  my  party  to  march,  and  I  remained  to  sec 
lieutenant  Wilkinson  sail,  which  he  did  at  ten  o'clock, 
having  one  skin  canoe,  made  of  four  buffalo  skins  and 
two  elk  skins;  this  held  three  men  besides  himself  and  one 
[Osage.  In  his  wooden  canoe,  were,  one  soldier,  one  Osage 
and  their  baggage ;  one  other  soldier  marched  on  shore. 
jWe  parted  with  "  God  bless  you'*  from  both  parties;  they 
ippeared  to  sail  very  well.  In  the  pursuit  of  our  party, 
'octor  Robinson,  Baroney,  one  soldier  and  myself,  killed 
brelau  and  a  buffalo,  of  the  latter  we  took  only  his  mar- 
ow  bones  and  liver.  Arrived  where  our  men  had  eu- 
imped,  about  dusk.     Distance  14  miles. 

•  See  Appendix  to  part  II.  [No.  i;.]  pnjje  ^c. 


A 


\ 


V  IV 


158 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE 


•I    ! 


■ '/     J^  ■■ "  '■  ' 


29tb  October^  Wednesday^'^'^Mzrched  after  breakfest 
anJ  in  the  first  hours  march,  passed  two  fires,  where  twenty 
one  Indians  had  recently  encamped,  in  which  party  (by 
their  paintings  on  the  rocks,)  there  were  seven  guns.  Killed 
a  bufialo,  halted,  made  fire  and  feasted  on  the  choice  pieces 
of  meat.     About  noon  discovered  two  horses  feeding  with 
a  herd  of  buffalo ;  we  attempted  to  surround  them,  but 
they  soon  cleared  our  fleetest  coursers.     One  appeared 
to  be  an  elegant  horse ;  these  were  the  first  wild  horses  we 
had  seen.     Two  or  three  hours  before  night,  struck  the 
Spanish  road ;  and,  as  it  was  snowing,  halted  and  en- 
camped the  party,  at  the  first  woods  on  the  bank  of  the 
river.     The  doctor  and  myself  then  forded  it  (the  ice  run- 
ning very  thick)  in  order  to  discover  the  course  the  Spa- 
niards took,  but  owing  to  the  many  buffalo  roads,  could 
not  ascertain  itj  but  it  evidently  appeared  that  they  had 
halted  here  some  time,  as  the  ground  was  covered  witt 
horse  dung,  for  miles  around.      Returned  to  camp.     The 
snow  fell  about  two  inches  deep  and  then  it  cleared  up, 
Distance  12  miles. 

30tb  October,  Thursday. — In  the  morning  sent  out  to 
kill  a  buffalo,  to  have  his  marrow  bones  for  breakfast, 
which  was  accomplished ;  after  breakfast  the  party  mard 
ed  upon  the  north  side,  and  the  doctor  and  myself  crossed 
with  considerable  difficulty  (on  account  of  the  ice)  to 
Spanish  camp,  where  we  took  a  large  circuit  in  order  to 
discover  the  Spanish  trace  and  came  in  at  a  point  of  woodsMiacfcj  ^jj  j 
south  of  the  river,  where  we  found  our  party  encampedMiack  horse 
We  discovered  also  that  the  Spanish  troops  had  markoBeed  ,•  thev 
the  river  up,  and  that  a  party  of  savages  had  been  therMhen  we  ret 
not  more  than  three  days  before.    Killed  two  buffalo.   Disl     Qd  No 
tance  4  miles.  ftse  of  hylnl 

Slst  October,  Friday. — Fine  day — marched  at  tiii'elsetcst  cour  J 
quarters  past  nine  o'clock,  on  the  Spanish  road.  EncaiTiped|)rses  [f  ^    i 


)V 


TO  THE  SOURCES  OF  THE  ARKANSAW,  &c.     159 

sun  Jffli  hour  high,  after  having  made  sixteen  miles.  We  ob- 
served this  day  a  species  of  chrysdlization  on  the  road  (whea 
the  sun  was  high)  in  low  places  where  rfiere  had  beea 
water  settled,  on  tasting  it  found  it  to  be  salt ;  this  gave 
in  my  mind  some  authenticity  to  the  report  of  the  prairie 
being  covered  for  leagues.  Discovered  the  trace  of  about 
twenty  savages  who  had  followed  our  road  ;  and  horse* 
going  down  the  river.  Killed  one  buffalo,  one  elk,  one 
deer. 

1st  November,  Saturday. — Marched  earlv,  just  after 
commencing  our  line,  heard  a  gun  on  our  left ;  the  doctor, 
Baroney  anc'  myself  being  in  advance,  and  laying  on  the 
ground  waiting  for  the  party  ;  a  band  of  Cabrie  came  up, 
amongst  our  horses,  to  satisfy  their  curiosity  ;  we  could 
not  resist  the  temptation  of  killing  two,  although  we  had 
plenty  of  meat.     At  the  report  of  the  gun  they  appeared 
astonished,  and  stood  still  until  we  hallowed  at  them  to 
rive  them  away.     Encamped  in  the  evening  on  an  island, 
pon  using  my  glass  to  observe  the  adjacent  country,  I 
ibserved  on  the  prairie  a  herd  of  horses ;  doctor  Robin- 
on  and  Baroney,  accompanied  me  to  go  and  view  them ; 
hen  within  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  they  discovered  us,  and 
ame  immedittely  up  near  us,  making  the  earth  tremble 
der  them  (this  brought  to  my  recollection  a  charge  of 
avalry).     They  stopt  and  gave  us  an  opportunity  to  view 
em,  among  them  there  were  some  very  beautiful  bays, 
'nt  of  woods'Mlacks  and  greys,  and  indeed  of  all  colours.     We  fired  at  a 
encainpei«^''ck  horse,  with  an  idea  of  creasing  him,  but  did  not  suc- 
ed ;  they  flourished  round  and  returned  again  to  see  us, 
hen  we  returned  to  camp. 

2d  November,  Sunday. — In  the  morning  for  the  pur- 
se of  trying  the  experiment,  we  equipped  six  of  our 
Ued  at  tlvreftetcst  coursers  with  riders  and  ropes,  to  noose  the  wild 
A  EncaiTip^V^ses  if  in  our  power,  to  come  among  the  band.    They 


camp 
cleared  up. 


g  sent  out  to 
breakfast,' 
party  matcV 
self  crossei 
ice)  to  tilt' 
in  order  io| 


ne 


bad  marke 
Id  been  thei^ 
Ibuffalo.  :Di^ 


I6d 


JOURNAL  OF  AT'OYAGE 


%  !i 


Stood  until  they  came  within  forty  yards  of  them,  noighing 
and  whinnowing,  when  the  chase  began,  which  we  con- 
tinued about  two  miles,  without  success.  Two  of  our 
horses  ran  up  with  tliem ;  we  could  not  take  them.  Re- 
turned to  camp.  I  have  since  laughed  at  our  folly,  for 
talking  the  wild  horses,  in  that  manner,  is  scarcely  ever 
attempted,  even  with  the  fleetest  horses,  and  most  expert 
ropers,  (see  my  account  of  wild  horses,  and  the  manner 
of  taking  them  in  my  dissertations  on  the  province  of 
Texas).  Marched  late.  River  turned  to  north  by  west. 
Hills  rhange  to  the  north  side.  Distance  13  1-2  nules. 
Killed  one  buiFalo.  ^ 

3d  November,  Monday. — Marched  at  ten  o'clock 
passed  numerous  herds  of  buffalo,  elk,  some  horses  &c. 
all  travelling  south.  The  river  bottoms,  full  of  salt  ponds; 
grass  similar  to  our  salt  meadows.  Killed  one  bufialo. 
Distance  25  1-2  miles. 

4th  November,  Tuesday. '—This   day  brought  to  our 
recollection,  the  fate  of  our  countrymen  at  Recovery; 
when  defeated  by  the  indians,  in  the  year  *9i.     In  the  af- 
ternoon discovered  the  north  side  of  the  river  to  be  cover. 
ed  with  animals  ;  which,  when  we  came  to  them  proved  to 
be  buffalo  cows  and  calves.     I  do  not  think  if  an  exagge-^ 
ration  to  say  there  were  3,000  in  one  view.  It  is  worthy  of ■  o'clock,  st 
remark,  that  in  all  the  extent  of  country  yet  crossed,  weBoutf^ide  of 
never  saw  one  cow^  and  that  now  the  face  of  the  earth  ap-Bed,  and  on 
peared  to  be  covered  with  them.     Killed   one   buffalcP^res,  from 
Distance  24  1-2  miles.  Bhar  there 

5th  November,  Wednesday. — Marched  at  our  usuaB^eface  of  i 
hour ;  at  the  end  of  two  miles,  shot  a  buffalo  and  twuPwth  spring] 
deer  und  halted,  which  detained  us  so  long  that  we  foolisldpwses.     Di 
ly  concluded  to  halt  the  day  and  kill  son^e  cows  md  ralvesM       lOih 
which  lay  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,     i  took  po#anks  of  thi 
on  a  hill,  and  sent  some  horf^emen  over,  when  a  scene  {om^^od ;  th( 


piace 

The]] 

-o  /ere 

one  si( 

impeJJe 

ded  to 

sated  fc 

6U 

detained 

T/ie  cou 

we  feaste 

attempt  t 

our  route 

covered  \ 

bers  exce( 

•    1th  1 

bage  bein^ 

row,  in  or( 

^^0,  one  ci 

8th 
much  jadej 
«iay,  jerked! 
9th 


TO  THE  SOURCES  OF  THE  ARKANSAW,  &c.    161 


e  con- 
of  our 
I.    «.e. 

Uy,  for 
ely  ever 
it  expert 
manner 
ivince  of 
\)y  -west. 
[.2  miles. 


light  to  o\h| 
Recoverfil 
in  the  afl 
to  be  coveil 
jmpro'vedtjl 

r  an  exagge-l 
is  worthy  oil 
crossed,  w«I 
the  earth  ap-1 
one   buffalo] 

at  our  usu; 
uffalo  and  t\v( 
hatwefoolisW 
)wsindcaivei 

[  tookpo' 
.uascenetoi 


place  which  gave  a  lively  representation  of  an  engagement. 
The  herd  of  buffalo  being  divided  into  separate  bands 
„u  ;ered  the  prairie  with  dust,  and  first  charged  on  the 
one  side  then  to  the  other,  as  the  pursuit  of  the  horsemen 
impelled  them  :  the  report  and  smoke  from  the  guns,  ad- 
ded to  the  pleasure  of  the  scene,  which  in  part  compen- 
sated for  our  detention. 

6th  November^  Thursday.— Mdirched  early,  but  was 
detained  two  or  three  hours  by  the  cows,  which  werMlled. 
The  cow  buffalo,  was  equal  to  any  meat  I  ever  saw,  and 
we  feasted  sumptuously  on  the  choice  morsels.  I  will  not 
attempt  to  describe  the  droves  of  animals  we  now  saw  on 
our  route ;  suffice  it  to  say,  that  the  face  of  the  prairie  was 
covered  with  them,  on  each  side  of  the  river;  their  num- 
bers exceeded  imagination.     Distance  16  miles. 

•  7th  November y  Friday. — Marched  early.  The  her- 
bage being  very  poor,  concluded  to  lay  by  on  the  mor- 
row, in  order  to  recruit  our  horses,  killed  three  cow  buf- 
falo, one  calf,  two  wolves,  one  brelaw.  Distance  1 8  miles. 
8th  November,  Saturday* — Our  horses  being  very 
much  jaded  and  our  situation  very  eligible,  we  halted  all 
day,  jerked  meat,  mended  mockinsons  &c. 

9th  November,  Sunday. — Marched  early.  At  twelve 
o'clock,  struck  the  Spanish  load,  (which  had  been  on  the 
outpide  of  us)  which  appeared  to  be  considerably  augment- 
|edj  and  on  our  arrival,  at  the  camp,  found  it  to  consist  of  96 
.fires,  from  which  a  rearonable  conclusion  might  be  drawn, 
that  there  were  from  6  to  700  men.  We  this  day  found 
he  face  of  the  country  considerably  changed ;  being  hilly, 
ith  springs:  passed  numerous  herds  of  buffalo  and  some 
orses.     Distance  27  miles. 

lOih  November^  Monday. — The  hills  increased,  the 
anks  of  the  river,  covered  with  grc  .es  of  young  cottDii 
iwd  J  the  river  itself  much  nur rower  and  crooked.  Otir 

X" 


'!"     :-f 


P- 


%      l 


I''  1 


m 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE 


•:f        ':    . 


1; 


m 


horses  growing  weak,  two  gave  out,  being  then  along 
empty,  cut  down  trees  at  night,  for  them  to  browze  on, 
KHied  one  buffalo.    Distance  20  miles. 

1  \th  November,  Tuesday. — Marched  at  the  u^ualhour. 
Passed  two  old,  and  one  last  summer,  canips  which  had 
belonged  to  the  savages,  and  we  suppose  Tetaus.  Passed  a 
Spanish  camp  where  it  appeared  they  remained  some  days 
as  we  conjectured  to  lay  up  meat,  previously  to  entering 
the  Tetau  country,  <^  the  buffalo  evidently  began  to 
grow  much  less  numerous.  Finding  the  impossibility  of 
performing  the  voyage  in  the  time  proposed,  I  determined 
to  spare  no  pains  to  accomplish  every  object  even  should 
it  oblige  me  to  spend  another  winter,  in  the  desert.  Killed 
one  buffalo,  one  brelaw.     Distance  24  irales. 

I2tb  November,  Wednesday. — ^Was  obliged  to  hi\^^ 
two  horses,  which  entirely   gave  out.     Missed  the  Spa- 
nish road.     Killed  one  buffalo.     Distance  20  miles.     \ 

\3th  November,  Thursday. — ^We  marched  at  the  I 
usual  hour.  The  river  banks  begin  to  be  entirely  covered  I 
with  woods  on  both  sides,  but  no  other  specie  than  cotton  f 
wood.  Discovered  very  fresh  signs  of  indians,  and  one! 
of  our  hunters  informed  me,  he  saw  a  man  on  horsebadj 
ascending  a  ravine  on  our  left.  Discovered  signs  of  waij 
parties  ascending  the  river.  Wounded  several  buffalo.! 
^Killed  one  turkey,  the  first  we  have  seen  since  w«  left  thefc/^^    j^^- 


Pawnees. 

\Mh  November,  Friday, —  In  the  morning,  doctcrj 
Robinson,  one  man  and  myself,  went  up  the  ra^ine,  on 
which  the  man  vas  supposed  to  have  been  seen, but coiil(| 
make  no  important  discovery.  Marched  at  two  o'clockj 
passed  a  point  of  red  rocks  and  one  large  creek.  Dis^am 
10  miles. 

I5th  November,  Saturday. — Marched  early.     Passf 
two  deep  creeks  and  nianv  high  points  of  the  rocks ;  ali 


I6t/j 

'panish  t. 

ver;  ^ve 

ippeared  a 

ovv,  where 

la.e  yet  di: 

'mbark  in 

'^  mount,: 
ince  II   I, 


g  then  aloog 
0  browze  on, 

he  u^ual  hour, 
ps  which  had 
:aus.  Passed  a 
led  some  days 
y  to  entering 
Ltly  began  to 
npossj-bility  of 
,  I  determined 
:t  even  should 
lesert.     Killed 

iS. 

liged  to  lea\je 
ssed  the  Spa- 
20  miles.  \ 
arched  at  the 
itirely  covered 
cie  than  cotton 
dians,  and  one 
on  horseback, 
i  signs  of  wai 
.^veral  buffalo. 
nee  we  left  the 

)rning,  doctcr| 
the  ra.ine,  oi 
seen,  but  could 
It  two  o'clock  I 
:ek.     Dis^ancl 


TO  THE  SOURCES  Qp  ^HP  ^n. 

^^    IHE  ARK  ANSA  w  c 

l«rsehe«is  of  buffalo.    At  tw     .,  '^''"-    '" 

^b  appeared  like  a  ,„^,  Mue'bud :"™'  '°  °"  "«*'• 
Wslass.  and  was  ^rill  more  Z^^J  ,'"^''«'" with  the 

'™«  me,  but  in  half  an  W  ^  *""'  '^'^  *=>»  « 
"^w  before  us.  When  ou.  ,m!»  *  '''^  "Pf^^d  in  fuU 
'%  with  one  accord  1°"  t'^  1"^  "^'^^^  ^  "«  Wll 

-erewhlteras  if  coverilth  "t"^'  ''«  '"^  -Z 

^s.  which  divide  the  ZtTiT':""  ^''»'»  °f  mount' 
•"e  Atlantic  oceans.  andTS*:  ^''"«'= '™™  '^o-  ^ 
tymto  the  bay  of  the  HoiySf  f      "f^  ^'''<^''  -np- 
f-Pp. ;  as  the  Alleghany  doe"  '  f^  *^^  °'-  ">«  Mi' 
rf-emselves  into  the  latter  riv'^T  '''"■'=''  *»'^''arge 
»PP»r  to  present  a  natural   ouX^  h  '  ^"'""^'•■-     '^''^y 
,»fI-ous«naand  N.w  Mexico  In  *'™  *''"  P^^ince 

'»«ural  boundary,     fiefo^  °     ''  *'"'"'  ^'  »  *fined  and 
,;"  *e  -uth  sid'e  beff^n^-e  d.-scovered  a  f!  fe 
Kops,  appeared  to  havelrne  '    f  ""'  "^  '^^  Sp'-^b 
^■«.  a.  .ut  one  mile  from  Z  Ifl'    '  ""^^P^'^  ""  ■'» 
He  further  discoveries  o,.th'  """"«'»'  ■'»'  we  might 

io//^  November    ^     7 
;P^™^h  troops  bad'asc'S;-if7/r''"^  '"«  *« 

;'-;  ^^'^''rchedattwoo'clkpf^'  '■'"'''  °'-  ">-^« 
PPeared  a,  this  pface  to  be  mnebi'  '  ''''^'^  ^^^'^^'^aw 
w,  where  we  first  struck"  Id 7  '""«*^"'  "-">- 
'^•'•' yet  discovered  in  ,ho  river  f  'u^  '"■P^*n>»t  I 
mbark  i„  February  at  i,s  ,21'  "''^  ""'  <"•='■'»'•  to 
'»  "'oumains.  with  cr  f,  !  t '?"  ''""'■''  '°  "'^'  Mexi! 
'"'^- »   1-2  milss.  '  P™P^'-'>-  '^"n^nicted.      Jxi 


"«i'^V^?-?^Ui{;,l| 


v'?^: 


164 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE 


4       .';, 


i\ 


17/A  November  J  M^n^.-^Marched  at  our  usual 
hour,  pushed  with  anidfea  of  arriving  at  the  mountains,  but 
found  at  night,  no  visible  difference  in  their  appearance, 
from  what  we  did  yesterday:  one  of  our  horses  gave  out 
and  was  left  in  a  ravine,  not  being  able  to  ascend  the 
hill :  but  I  sent  back  for  him  and  had  him  brought  to  the 
camp.    Distance  23  1-2  miles. 

18th  November,  Tuesday.^^As  we  discovered  fresh 
signs  of  the  savages,  we  concluded  it  best  to  stop  and  kill 
some  meat,  for  fear  we  should  get  into  a  country  where  we 
could  not  kill  game.  Sent  out  the  hunters ;  I  walked  my. 
«elf,  to  an  eminence  from  whence  I  took  the  courses  to  the 
different  mountains,  and  a  small  sketch  of  their  appearance. 
In  the  evening,  found  the  hunters  had  killed  without  mer. 
cy,  having  slain  17  buffalo  and  wounded  at  least  20  more. 

19th  November,  Wednesday, — Having  several  buffalo 
brought  in,  gave  out  sufficient  to  last  this  month  ;  I  found 
it  expedient  to  remain  and  dry  the  meat,  as  our  horses 
were  getting  very  weak,  and  the  one  died  which  was 
brought  up  on  the  1 8th.  Had  a  general  feast  of  marrow 
bones  ;  136  of  them,  furnishing  the  repast. 

20tb  November,  Thursday. — Marched  at  our  usual 
hour  ;  but  as  our  horscs's  loads  were  considerably  aug- 
mented by  the  death  of  one  horse  and  the  addition  of 
900  lbs.  of  meat,  we  moved  slowly,  and  made  only  18 
miles.     Killed  two  buffalo  and  took  some  choice  pieces.  Bdisappointe 

21st  November,  Friday. — Marched  at  our  usual  hour,  Bnieet.     JV|a 
passed  two  Spanish  camps,  within  three  miles  of  each  other,  mwhen.  the  t 
We  again  discovered  the  tracks  of  two  men,  who  had  as- lit  was  with 
cended  the  river  yesterday.     This  caused  us  to  move  withinot  until  th 
caution ;  but  at  the  same  time,  increased  our  anxiety  tolsjon.     \^]j 
discov/er  them.     The  river  was  certainly  as  navigable  herelparriors  h 
(and  1  think  much  more  so,)  than  some  hundred  milesftnd  iances. 
below,  which  I  suppose  arises  from  its  flowing  through  jl'me  they  w 


long 
wate 
mow 

hour, 
having 

scende 
cried  0 
ningfri 
on  turn 
on  the  I 
colors, 
^hose  in 
we  again 

round,  tc 

that  I  dis 

had  moui 

tor  and  B 

f^ans  wer 

quih'ty  wa 

ses  aJ]  safe 

ty,  from 

Tetaus ; 

An  unsucc 

^ays  read) 


f 


TO  THE  SOURCES  OF  '^HE  ARKANSAW,  fee.    165 

long  course  of  sandy  soil,  which  must  saibsorb  much  of  t!ie 
water,  and  render  it  shoaler  below  than  above,  near  the 
mountains.    Distance  21  miles. 

Q2d  November,  Saturday. — ^Marched  at  our  usual 
hour,  and  with  rather  more  caution  than  <usual.    lifter 
having  marched  about  five  miles  on  the  prairie,  we  de» 
scended  into  the  bottom,  the  front  only ;  when  Baroney 
cried  out  Voila  un  Savage,  when  we  observed  a  number  run- 
ning from  the  woods  towards  us,  we  advanced  to  them  and 
on  turning  my  head  to  the  left,  I  observed  several  running 
on  the  hill,  as  it  ^ .  re  to  surround  us  ;  one  with  a  stand  of 
colors.     This  caused  a  momentary  halt ;  but  perceiving 
those  in  front,  reaching  out  their  hands,  and  without  arms 
we  again  advanced,  they  met  us  with  open  arms,  crouding 
round,  to  touch  and  embrace  us.  They  appeared  so  anxious 
that  I  dismounted  my  horse,  and  in  a  moment,  a  fellow 
had  mounted  him  and  was  off.     I  then  observed  the  doc- 
tor and  Baroney,  were  in  the  same  predicament.     The  in- 
dians  were  embracing  the  soldiers ;  after  some  time  tran- 
I  quility  was  so  far  restored,  (they  having  returned  our  hor- 
ses all  safe)  as  to  enable  us  to  learn  they  were  a  war  par- 
ty, from  the  grand  Pawnees,  who  had  been  in  search  of  the 
Tetaus  ;  but  not  finding  them  were  now  on  their  return. 
An  unsuccessful  war  party  on  their  return  home,  are  al- 
ways ready  to  embrace  an  opportunity,  of  gratifying  their 
T  •  g  pieces.  Bdisappointed  vengeance,  on  the  first  persons  whom  they 
usual  hour,Bnieet.     Made  for  the  woods  and  unloaded  our  horses  j 
f  each  other.  Iwiien  the  two  partizans  endeavored  to  arrange  the  pSu-ty; 
who  had  as-lit  was  with  great  difHctilty  that  they  got  them  tranquil,  and 
move  witblnot  until  there  had  been  a  bow  or  two,  bent  on  the  occa- 
anxiety  tofcon.     When  in  some  order,  we  found  them  to  be  sixty 
Vable  hetepf'^rriors,  half  with  fire  armc.  and  half  with  bows,  arrows, 
dred  milespid  lances.     Our  party  was  sixte  n  total.     In  a  short 
i      through  v^^  they  were  arranged  iii  a  ring  and  I  took  my  seat  be- 


usual 
ins,  but 
arance, 
■ave  out 
;end  the 
It  to  the 

ed  fres^ 
)and^ 
where  w 
alked  my- 
rses  to  the 
ppearance. 
thout  mer. 
1 20  more, 
eral  buffalo 

;h  *,  1  f o^^"^ 
our  horses 

which  vas 

t  of  marrovi 

It  our  usual] 

Iderably  aug- 

addition  oi 

ide  only  18 


•^ 

mW'v 

■' 

■  1'-.  1 

i 

I 

:| 

iQ 

■f 

1  1 
1  Iff 

'm 


i*'   -f-i 


5i  ■' 


4 


I!    a    I 


11 


16» 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE 


ttireen  the  two  partizans ;  our  colors  were  ()laced  opposite 

each  other,  the  utensils  for  smoaking  &c.  were  paraded 

on  a  small  seat  befor    us ;  thus  far  all  was  well.     I  then 

ordered  half  a  carrot  of  tobacco,  one  dozen  knives,  606rc 

steels  and  60  flints  to  be  presented  them.     They  demanlf  d 

ammunition,  corn,  blankets,  kettles  &c.  all  of  which  they 

were   refused,  notwithstanding  the  pressing  instances  of 

my  interpreter,  to  accord  to  some  points.     The  pipes  yet 

lay  unmoved,  as  if  they  were  undetermined  whether  to 

trefit  us  as  friends  or  enemies ;  but  after  some  time  we 

Were  presented  with  a  kettle  of  Water,  drank,  smoked,  and 

^at  together.      During  this   time  doctot*  Robinson  was 

standing  up,  to  observe  their  actions,  in  order  that  we 

might  be  ready  to  commence  hostilities  as  soon  as  them- 

They  now  took  thCir  presents  and  commenced  distributing 

them,  but  some  malcontents,  threw  them  away,  by  way  of 

contempt.     We  began  to  load  our  horses,  when  they  en- 

di^cled  us  arid  commienced  stealing  every  thing  they  could. 

Fitiding  it  w&*  JIfltcuIt  to  preserve  my  pistols ;  I  mounted 

nly  horse  wheji  1  found  myself  frequently  surrounded 

during:  whiclii  .sonie  were  ^endeavoring  to  steal  the  pistols. 

The  doctor  wa.i  equally  engaged  in  another  quarter,  and  all 

the  soldiers  in  their  positions ;  in  taking  things  from  them 

one  having  stolen  my  tomahawk,  I  informed  the  chief,  but 

he  paid  no  respect,  except  to  reply  that  *'  they  were  pitiful;"  Bdown  14 1 

finding  this  I  determined  to  protect  ourselves,  as  far  as  was  Hthree  sides 

in  my  power,  and  the  affair  began  to  take  a  serious  aspect  Bgiving  f/j^  ^ 

I  ordering  my  men  to  take  thvir  arms,  and  separate  them- Bmy  absence 

selves  from  the  savages  ;  at  the  same  time  declaring  to  Bat  one  o'cio 

them,  I  woulfl  kill  the  first  man  who  touched  our  baggage.ftiountain  • 

On  which  they  commenced  filing  off  immediately ;  weliig/]fs  j^ .  . 

marched  about  the  same  time  and  found,  they  had  madeliie  prairie 

out  to  steal  one  sword,  tomahawk,  broad  axe,  five  canBesides  inysQ 

trfiis,  and  sundry  other  small  articles.    After  our  leavinwrand  Brow 


cei 

met 
beini 
with 

TUght 

way]; 

of  the 

af  leas 

tuiie  in 

to  can; 

one  de 

one  o*ci( 
encampe 
"ver  app 
t'Jes  and 
coiiciudeci 
ascend  tb 
mountain, 
in  order  u 
various  bi 
19  ini/es. 
24t/j 
'0 


TO  THE  SOURCES  OF  THE  ARKANSAW,  &c.    \67 


josite 
raded 
then 
60  ^Tc 

:hthey 

iices  o{ 

ipes  yet 

lether  to 

time  w 

ked,  and 

[\son  was 
that  ^e 

I  as  them- 

istributing 

^  by  way  of 

m  they  en- 

they  could. 
1  mounted 
uitounded 
the  pistols. 
ter,andalll 
from  then ' 
e  chief, hut' 


them  ^  when  I  reflected  on  the  subject,  I  felt  myself  sin- 
ce>  i/  mortified,  that  the  smallness  of  my  number  obliged 
me  thus  to  submit  to  the  insults  of  a  lawless  bandit ii,  it 
being  the  first  time  ever  a  savage  took  any  thing  from  mc, 
with  the  least  appearance  of  force.  After  encamping  at 
night  the  doctor  and  myself  went  about  one  mile  back,  and 
way  laid  the  road,  determined  in  case  we  discovered  any 
of  the  rascals  pursuing  us  to  steal  our  horses,  to  kill  two 
at  least;  but  after  waiting  behind  some  logs  un^*  me 
tinie  in  the  night,  and  discovering  no  person,  W( 
to  camp.  Distance  17  miles,  killed  two  bu. 
one  deer. 

23d  November,  Sunday. — Marched  at  ten  o*clock  ;  at 
one  o'clock  came  to  the  third  fork  on  the  south  side  and 
encamped  at  night  in  the  point  of  the  grand  forks.  As  the 
river  appeared  to  be  dividing  itself  into  many  small  bran- 
ches and  of  course  must  be  near  its  extreme  source,  I 
concluded  to  put  the  party  in  a  defensible  situatioi\^  and 
ascend  the  north  fork,  to  the  h-gh  point  of  the  blue 
mountain,  which  we  conceived  would  be  one  days  march, 
in  order  to  be  enabled  from  its  pinical,  to  lay  down  the 
various  branches  and  positions  of  the  country.  Distance 
19  miles.  Killed  five  buffalo. 

24;th  Novcfuber,  Monday. ^-^dxXy  in  the  morning  cut 
down  14  logs,  and  put  up  a  breast  work,  five  feet  high  on 
three  sides  and  the  other  was  thrown  on  the  river.     After 


asfarasvfas 

•     c  aspect* fc^""g  ^hi^^scessary  orders  for  their  government,  during 

rate  theflv-Mmy  absence,  in.  case  of  our  not  returning.     We  marched 

A  daring  ^"^t  ^'^^  o'clock  with  an  idea  of  arriving  at  the  foot   of  the 

bai^gage-t^^ntain ;  but  found  ourselves  obliged  to  take  up  our 

r  ,.     i'.  v/efcghts  lodging  under  y.  single  cedar,  which  we  found  in 

had  midihe  prairie,  without  water  and  extremely  cokt.     Our  party 

five  canfesides  myself  consisted  of  doctor  Robinson,  privates  Mil- 


ir  our 


leaving 


fr and  Brown.     Distance  l'.iini!eb.  .;•„,„ 


»■>  't^'v^,- 


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IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


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Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


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<^ 


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23  WIST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  MSEO 

(716)  •72-4503 


'^ 


168 


JOURNAL  OP  A  V(>t'A(Sfi 


ezpecttfidii  f^  ascoiding  di^  mdittilBilifbutAN^  dttly^^ 
to  encampat  its  base,  after  passiflg^VerinsiAy  sinatl  }iilli> 
covered  with  cedars  and  pitcb  piiles;  Oiir  eiicampmoit 
inA  on  a  creek  where  we  found  no  Wiiter  for  sevieral  ni3e6 
from  the  mountain,  but  near  its  base,  found  springs  suf- 
ficient. Took  a  meridional  observadcm,  and'  Ibe  alth 
tiide  of  the  mountain.  KiUed  two  buffalo.  Distance  8S 
niiles. 

26/i&  Noffembery  Wednesday^^^xpec^g  to  return  fo 
our  camp  that  evenings  we  left  all  our  l^lankets  and  pn). 
visions,  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain.  Killed  a  de^r  (di 
new  ^edes,  and  hung  his  dun  on  a  tree  with  some  meat 
We  commenced  ascending,  found  it  very  difficult,  beteg 
obliged  to  climb  up  rocks,  sometimes  altnost  perpjendieu^ 
kr ;  and  after  marching  all  day^  we  encamped  in  a  cave^ 
without  blankets,  victuals  or  water.  W^  had  a  fine  clear 
irhilst  it  was  snowing  at  the  bottom.  On  the  side  d 
>untain,  we  found  only  yellow  and  pitch  pinej  Some 
distance  up  we  found  bufl^o,  higher  still  the  new  sp*^ 
6f  deer  and  pheasants. 

*  27tb  November,  Tbunday.'^Arose  hungry,  dry,  and 
extremely  sore,  from  the  inequality  of  the  rocks,  oa 
which  we  had  lain  all  night,  but  were  amply  comf^ensated 
for  toil  by  the  sublimity  of  the  prospects  below.  The  ufr 
bounded  prairie  was  overhung  with  clouds^.which  appear* 
sd  like  the  ocean  in  a  storm ;  wave  piled  on  wave  and 
£bammg,  whilst  the  sky  u'as  perfectly  dear  where  we, 
were.  Commenced  our  march  up  the  mountaio,  and  in 
about  one  hour  arrived  at  the  summit  of  this  chain^:  hm\ 
we  found  the  snow  middle  deep ;  no  sign  of  beast  or 
Inhabiting  this  region.  The  thermometer  which  stood 
9®  above  O  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  here  fell  to  4°beJ 
low  0.     The  summit  of  the  Grand  Peak,  which  was  en 


to 

wh 

pin 

onlj 

iilf 

bad 

fyrd 


the  91 


8|QnS2 

belter 

nbsjth 

that  48 

28 

Kept  sc 

past  one 
first  full 

a  vaiJey 
and  cove 
29/. 

'epast,  ai 

well. 

30A 

o'clock,  i 

loving  w 

doctor,  B 

eampinent 


riiigssitf- 

ts  twid  pro- 

some  meat 
kuU,  beiag 
perpjBH^ett^ 
ed  inacave, 

to  the  aide  °f! 
hpitieiSoBK 


TO  tH£  SOURCES  OF  THE  ARI^ANSAW,  fce.    <«0 

tirely  l>are(^  y^gietsution  and  ^oyeredivith  a|ow»  now  a|^ 
peai^  at  t^  dj^^u)iqe,olf  1^  Qi;  16  loiijtes  fromp,  and  as 
JhJigii^gainjA^l^t  we  |ad  J^scetidedy  and  would  h^^ 
talien  9k  iH^qle  day's  nprdi  j^  h^ve  i^y^Kl  ^t  its  boap^ 
whenl  beli^sre  nq,  hujO^an  being  CQi|ld  jbave  j^j^si^i^io  j^ 
{Hnical.  .  This  with  diecondidon  of  my  soldiers  Vhoh^ 
only  Ught ,  oyeralls  >on,  sii^d  np  stoclpngs,  and^ every  way 
ill  provided  to  endure  t|ie|nflemen<^  |c^iher^Q^ 
bad  prospect  of  killing  any  thing. to  svbs^  on,  with  J^je 
j^uther  detepdon  pf^o  Qr%ee  day||4^^))ic|i*it  mustoq- 
casii]i^,dete|npai^^  llie  <^oii^^^  belo^tf 

had  niow  ascend^  .die  mountain  an^  entirely  eny^oped 
the  9uipnit,pn  whicfi  res^  ^^imial  snows.  We  descended 
by  ajp^  ^^p  ravine  with  miich  1^^  ili^culy  dian  cc^ 
lemplated.  Found  all  our  bag|^^  ^e,  bi^t  jbue^priQip* 
sions  :41  destroyed.  It  begaa  to  snqw^  and.  we,  sougnt 
^elter  under  ^e  side  of  a  projecting  rpck^^i^^ 
foul',  made  a  meal  on  one  partridge,  and  a,  jn^fc^  deer's 
rp>s,  tl|^  ravens  had  left  us,  being  the  first  we  jtiad  c^^^^i^^ 
that  4a  hours/  |. 

2Btb  November^  B-;<%.-»Mard^ .  at  pile  o'cjod;. 
Kept  straight  down  the  creek  to  avoid  the  hiUs.  ^^t  Ivdf 
past  one  o'clock  shot  two  bu^alo,  when  we  made,  the 
first  full  meal  we  had  made  in  three  d^ys.  %)^^^  ^in 
»  valley  under  a  shelving  rock.  The  land  h^e  very  rid^ 
and  covered  with  old  Tetau  camps,  ,; 

29tb  November,  Saturday, — Marched  after  a  short 
repast,  and,  arrived  at  our  camp  before  night  y  found  aU 
well. 

30tb     November,    Sunday. — ^Marched    at    eleven 
I  o'clock,  it  snowing  very  fast,  but  my  impatience  to  be 
moving  woidd  not  pi^mit  my  lying  still  at  that  camp.  The 
doctor,  Baroney  and  myself,  went  to  view  a  Tetau  en- 
camp orient,  which  appeared  to  be  about  t\vo  years  old; 


r  :Nlff ''''iJ^' 


iro  JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE 

'  Kid  'from  thdr  having  cut  do\m  so  large  a  quantity  of  trees 
to  support  their  horses,  conclude  there  must  have  been  at 
\eak  one  thousand  souls :  passed  several  more  in  the  course 
of  the  day  $  also  one  Spanish  camp.  Distanc^l5  miles; 
Silled  two  deer.  Thi'  day  came  to  die  first  cedar  and 
jdne. 

1st  December,  Monday.^^The  storm  still  continuing 
tpith  violence,  we  remained  encamped ;  the  snow  by  n%ht 
one  foot  deep ;  our  horses  bemg  obliged  to  scrape  it  away, 
to  obtain  their  miserable  pittance,  and  to  increase  their 
misfortunes,  the  poor  animals  were  attacked  by  the  mag. 
pies,  who  attracted  by  the  scent  of  their  sore  backs,  alight- 
ed  on  them,  and  in  defiance  of  their  wi|icing  and  kicking, 
picked  many  places  quite  raw ;  the  difficulty  of  procuring 
food  rendered  those  birds  so  bold  as  to  light  en  our  mens 
arois  and  .  u  'r  meat  out  of  their^  hands.  One  of  our  hunter's 
dUt  but  killed  nothing. 

^  2d  December,  Tuesday. — ^It  cleared  off  in  the  night, 
and  in  the  morning  the  thermometer  stood  at  IT  below  0, 
(Reaumef)  being  three  times  as  cold  as  an/  morning 
we  ha<i^  yet  experienced.  We  killed  an  old  buffalo  on 
tb^  opposite  side  of  the  river,  which  here  was  so  deep  as 
to  swiih  horses.  Marched  and  ibund  it  necessary  to  cross 
to  the  north  side,  about  two  miles  up,  as  the  ridgr  '  ined 
the  river;  The  ford  was  a  good  one,  but  the  ice  r  ery 
bad,  and  two  of  the  men  got  their  feet  froze  before  we 
idbtild  get  accommodated  with  fire  &c.  .^ticuted  some  of 
'our  old  buffalo  and  continued  our  march.  The  country 
being  very  rugged  and  hilly,  one  of  our  horses  took  a  freakl 
in  his  head  and  turned  back,  which  occasioned  three  of  our 
rear  guard  to  lay  out  all  night  j  I  was  very  apprehensive 
they  might  perish  on  the  open  prairie.  Distance  131 
miles. 


•^heper 

it  would  niake] 

"ft'jecaJcuL 
/*«  of  Chimb] 

mion  by  thl 

'"'Jced  in  our  x 

rhen  in  a  valjJ 


TO  THE  SOURCES  OF  THE  ARKANSAW,  8tc.     irl 


[trees 
leenal 
coune 
iiules. 
lar  and 

ithiuing 

ita^y, 
ise  thor 
Aemag. 
L9,  alightp 
I  kicking, 
procuring 
ourxnens 
ir  hunter's 


fUi  December  i  Wednesday^-^The.  weather  moderating 
to  S  below  O,  our  absentees  joined,  one  with  his  feet  froz- 
en, but  were  not  able  to  bxiiig  up  the  horse ;  sent  two  men 
back  on  Horseback.  The  hardships  of  last  voyage  had 
now  began,  and  had  the  climate  only  been  as. severe  as 
the  climate  then  was,  some  of  the  men  must  have  perish- 
ed, for  they  had  no  winter  dodung ;  I  wore  myself  cotton 
overalls,  for  I  had  not  calculated  on  being  out  in  that  in^ 
clement  season  of  the  year.  Dr.  Robinson  and  myself, 
with  assistants,  went  out  and  took  the  .altitude  of  the 
north  mountain,  on  the  h^se  of  a  mile  ;*  after  which,  to- 
gether with  Sparks,  we  endeavoured  to  kill  a  cow  but 
without  effect.  Killed  two  bulls,  that  the  msa  might  use 
pieces  of  dieir  hides  for  mockinsons.  Left  Sparks  out* 
On  our  return  to  camp  found  the  men  had  got  back  with 
the  strayexl  horse,  but  too  late  to  march. 

4>th  December,  Ti6f/ri</ay.-— Marched  about  five  \  took 
up  Sparks  who  had  succeeded  in  killing  a  cow.  Killed 
two  bufl^lo  and  six  turkies.    Distance  20  miles. 

5th  December,  Friday, — ^Marched  at  our  ususd  hoi|r. 
Passed  one  very  bad  place  of  falling  roc'.s  \  had  to  carry 
our  loads.  Encamped  on  the  main  branch  of  the  river, 
near  the  entrance  of  the  south  mountain.  In  the  evening 
walked  up  to  the  mountain.  Heard  14  guns  at  camp  diur- 
ing  my  absence,  which  alarmed  me  considerably ;  return- 
ed as  quickly  as  possible,  and  found  that  the  cause  of  my 


*The  perpendicular  height  of  the  mountain  from  the  level  of  the  prairie,  was 

lo^Si  feet,  and  admitting  that  the  prairie  was  8000  feet  from  the  tevel  of  the  sea, 

it  would  make  the  elevation  of  this  pea)c  x8,58z  feet,<iequd  to  some,  and  surpat- 

mg  the  calculated  height  ofothers,  far  the  peak  of  Teneriff^  and  falling  short  of 

that  of  Chimborazo  only  1,701  feet,     l^eeditwas  so  remarkable  as  to  be  known 

I  to  all  the  savage  nation  for  hundreds  of  n&iles  around,  and  to  be  spoken  of  with  ad- 

I  miration  by  the  Spaniards  of  N.  Mexico,  and  was  the  bounds  of  their  travels  N.  W. 

1  indeed  in  our  wandering  in  the  mountains,  it  was  never  out  of  our  sight,  (except 

I  when  in  a  valley)  from  the  14th  November  to  the  27th  January. 


^     )lii 


ITS 


JOOltKAL  OP  A  VOYAGE 


11111 


'fl!^«.  •  ill 


fei  ^fiii*';.;,:: 


ill 


'1;  hi: 


sJarm  was  thdr  shoodrig  turldes.    Killed  two  bufialo  voA 
nineturkies.     Distance  18  miles. 

6tb  December y  Saturday.-^SeDt  oiit  three  different  par- 
ties to  hunt  the  Spanish  trace,  but  without  success.  The 
doctor  and  myself  followed  the  river  into  the  mountam, 
which  was  bounded  on  each  side  by  the  rocks  of  the  moun> 
tain,  200  feet  high,  leaving  a  small  valley  of  50  or  6G 
feet.    Killed  two  bufialo,  two  deer,  one  turkey. 

*7tb  December,  Sttnday,—^VIe  again  dispatched  parties 
In  search  of  the  tracer  one  party  discovered  it  on  the 
other  side  bf  the  riVer,  and*lbUowtd  it  mto  the  valley  of 
the  river  at  the  entrance  ^jf^lhe  mounciiit.  Inhere  they  nilet 
two  parties  wliAr  were  returning  from  fexpliTing  the  t^ 
branches  of  the  river,  in  the  mountams :  of  which  they  re* 
pdrted,  to  have'  ascended  until  the  river  was  hierelya 
brook,  bounded  on  both  sides  with  perpendjpilfer  rocks! 
impracticablie  for  horses  ever  to  pass  them ;  they  then  re* 
crossed  the  river  to  the  north  side,  and  discovered  (as  they 
supposed)  that  the  Spanish  troops  had  ascended  a  dry> 
valley  to  the  right — on  their  return  they  found  some  rock 
salt,  samples  of  which  were  brought  me.  We  determined 
to  march  the  morrow  to  the  entrance  of  the  valley ;  there 
to  examine  the  salt,  and  the  road.    Killed  one  wild  cat. 

8/A  December,  Monday, — On  examining  the  trace 
found  yesterday,  conceived  it  to  have  been  only  a  recbn- 
noitering  party,  dispatched  from  the  main  body,  and  on 
analysing  the  rock  salt,  found  it  to  be  strongly  impreg* 
nated  with  sulphur.  There  were  some  very  Strong  sulphu- 
rated springs  at  its  fdot.  Returned  to  camp ;  took  with  me 
Dr.  Robinson  and  Miller,  andfdescended  the  riveiif*^  in  or- 
der to  discover  certainly,  if  the  whole  party  had  came  by 
this  route.  Descended  about  seven  miles  on  the  south 
side.  Saw  great  quantities  of  turkies  and  deer.  Killed 
one  deer. 


and  in 

which  i 

was  hot 

frequeni 

P.M.  hi 

outtose 

|fance  is 

12// 

■ontinuei 
w  our  ri| 
appe 
snow 
»^y  12  m 

1 3th 

Nrand  j 

camp  J 

"mediately 

pere  bein^ 

^"nisb  Troi 


obufialoaad 

different  par- 
iiccess.  Thfi 
le  mountsun, 
of  the  moun< 
of  50  or  6© 
;ey. 

Itched  parties 
ed  it  on  the 
the  valley  of 
lere  they  ttimt 
iring  the  t^o 
rhich  they  te. 
eras  hieretya 
tipilar  rocksl 
they  then  re. 
rered  (as  they 
;ended  a  dl^ 
id  some  rock 
'"e  determined 
tralley ;  there 
ne  vrild  cat. 
ig  the  trace 
only  a  recon- 
body,  and  on 
ngly  impreg. 
trong  sulphu- 
took  with  me 
2  rivefi^^  in  or. 
had  came  by 
3n  the  south 
ieer.     Killed 


TO  THE  SOURCES  OP  THE  AD... 

Span»fc  camp  about  four  mfleTJ^'^^-    found  Ae 

*enver.    Returned  to\Z        .*''**'»'' XKMded 
•-o'clock.    Fou.^  ^  :^ ''''«;«  we  .„^2S; 

medately,  but  four  njj^lj'^'^  ^^  «oved^' 

^^l>  December.  TF,J..  J        . 
•^  over  the  mountl  t^-^-»^d»d  "^  found  the " 

H  t^th  water  and  LTjr^  *°'?»P«».  where  th,^ 

h^  "ght  and  left,  apZj  to  ''"'''^-  ^«  ^dg^ 
h  appeared  on  our  flS^;°fr  ^-,  but  „oS! 
mil  snow.  Owing  to  the  i. T^  **  """vaJs  covered 
K^i8  miles.       ^      '"^  '^'^■e*  of  our  ho«es.  S 

H^^l^Swe^^t'-^'^''"'  «  *e  usual 
h  «n,p  i  and  at  IZ^TLT^  *«=  (supposed)  S« ' 
Jiaiedutelv  fell  „„  "ock.  a  dividing  riA       ^ 

i         «y  teU  on  a  small  branch  „."•*,  "''«*'  ""1 
Itee  bemg  no  appearance  of  „     .  ^°^S  ^-  ^°  W 
H  ^~«  to  o^^  Sr»d  r1'  r  '^'^  '■''  '"'d  the 
\^-    ^er  the  halt  fi  my  ^f  Jf  "^  "'"'  *"  - 

y  gun  and  went  out  to  see 


174 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE 


liijiSf. 


■'■ :'. 


i:r 


R-ir^'  J!''i 


what  ditcajfery  I  could  make,  and  after  marching  about 
two  mUes  north,  ^U  on  a  river  40  yards  wide,  froaen 
ofer^  whkh  after  some  investigation,  I  fou^  nm  nordi 
east,  this  was  ^e  occasion  of  much  surprise,  as  we  were 
tau|^  to  expect  to  have  met  with  die  branches  of  the  Red 
liver,  which  should  run  south  east  Quere.  Must  it  not 
be  the  l^ead  waters  of  the  river  Platte  ?  If  so  the  Missouri 
must  run  much  more  west,  than  is  generally  represented; 
for  die  Platte  is  a  snudl  river  by  no  means  presenting  an 
expectation  of  so  extensive  a  course.  Distance  18  miiei. 
One  horse  gave  out  ahd  was  left, 

14tb  December,    S«im%.— Marched.      Struck   tiu 
river,  ascended  it  four  miles,  and  encamped  on  the  north 
side.    The  prairie  being  about  two  miles  wide,  was  cover* 
fd  at  least  six  miles  (on  the  banks  of  the  river}  with  hoiy  i 
dung  and  the  marks  of  Indian  camps,  which  had  bea] 
since  the  cold  weather,  as  was  evident  by  the  fires  whicb 
were  in  the  centre  of  the  lodges ;  the  sign  made  by  thdrl 
horses  was  astonishing,  and  would  have  taken  a  thousantHlodians,  ^ 
horses  some  months.    As  it  was  impossible  to  say  whicii| 
course  the  Spaniards  pursued,  amongst  this  multiplicity  d\ 
signs,  we  halted  early,  and  discovered  that  they  or 
savages  had  ascended  the  river.    We  determined  to  p^'j 
sue  them,  as  to  the  geography  of  the  country,  had  tut 
out  to  be  so  different  from  our  expectation;  we 
somewhat  at  a  loss  which  course  to  pursue,  unless  we 
tempted  to  cross  the  snow  cap'd  mountains,  to  the  scud 
east  of  us  which  was  almost  impossible.     Bursted  onei 
our  rifles,  which  was  a  great  loss,  as  it  made  three 
which  had  bursted,  and  the  five  which  had  been  broken  ( 
the  march,  and  one  of  my  men  was  now  armed  with 
sword  and  pistols.     Killed  two  buffalo. 

15t/j  December,  Monday.-^'Aher  repairing  our  guaja  fine  creJ 
we  marched,  but  were  obliged  to  leave  another  hory  mountain] 


TO  THE  SOURCES  OP  THE  A»r.. 
A«end«IU,.ri,er  both  ./"^  ^"*^'"'^^.  •-    >r, 

»««  have  been  e«n^ely^^ '  '^  «**  »«p.  ttey 
«umbe»  of  horse,.  My  L^^""' '"''»»*»«»  vw 
>-*  cold,  being  ^^^  ^^  »»*«d  ewremdy 

""d-P  the  stream,  ^^r?*^"*!"-    When  finding  „o 
,»ough  to  enaWe  me  to  hfdo"!  S^     ''^■■«  "s'' 

**  a<lj«=ent  country,  and  coaSudJ^'^  '*  "^onnoitenrf 

'««»ut  of  the  quesdon.*,tolf  """«*«  *~''* 

!««,  for  the  head  of  Red  riv^  1"^,°"'  ~"~  «>mh 

|ata8e,camp»  which  had  C'o«^„-5r  P«y  found 

r^'  «-*  »  Ja^e  crossTtKdl.  ^  *!'««  ««> 
|*<«e  I«ople  catholics  ?  ""'''"«•    Qnew.  Are 

'  *e  main  b«„ch ;  .^r^^kZ^V^  '°^'  ^  '" 
8  « 'o  bear  too  much  to  Arn^„T^  '^*^'  >»>»  fotf- 

°  S»ve  ve^r  little  cr^ie.  ol  enL^"'' '°  ''^'^  ^ 
»  mountain,  camepast  an  exr.M  ?  "^  '  ^ap  in  the 
"  fine  creek,  which  we  foS"  ^P'^S  -W^h  form-      . 

-mountains  forabout six  mt    fours'-  "'«^*»  ■» 

'  ''"""' many  evacuated 


I, 


JOURNAI- OF  A  VOYAGE 
•'•  -  .ftMBoinringouttbe 


eource.    W««°^«  t^,  lurched  «Jo«n  «h««  °«k 

.  i9«A  -D^'"»*f ' '^^e  Id  encamped,  sent  o« 
ne.rAeopeping.rf  ^  P'^'';,"^,,^  SriU  »ov*, 
jarrie.  hunting,;^*".  '>""^  ^ke  an  otoeivanoo. 

aai  B««».i*r,  S-'-'-'^J'---™  down  to  U  ^. 
for  pasture  on  the  river  sent  ourhor^s  ^  ^^  I 
^.aUo  three  paruesou^hrnxu^^^^^     ^ 

^noptoepectofblUng'»y8  ,herefore  determinJ 
U»  part,  d»uld  ^^'^"Zm  descend  the  river  J 
^  .he  doctor  »d^"Sd  two „^  „„„ia  ascendd 

Ae  rest  of  the  party  «  j^ 

.bained  provision  and  cojddw^tB^ 

21„  0««»to-.  ^""^Vfor  me  to  take  a  meridio. 
,^ed •.  the  party  ^TT^^ZXl    Myself  and  i 

observation,  after  ">"* 'rTCSoy  a"*  ^Ul'')' 
t-omenwhoaccon,pan.a^^*^»^^/„^,,,  aide., 

bordered  by  yellow  V^-^^^^U  »P  thirteen  rfj 


ivir. 


TO  THE  SOURCES  OF  THE  ARKANSAW,  kc.     ITT 


view  9t  Icamt  95  miles,  tq  where  the  river  ente^  thf 
mountains,  it  beii^  »t  that  pUce  not  more  than  ten  or  fif- 
teen ieet  wi4«»  md  properly  speaking,  only  a  brttk  i  from 
this  pl»c«  ^er  takin|[  the  course,  and  estimating  the  dis- 
tance we  relumed  to  our  camp  of  last  evening.  Killed  one 
turkey  i^nd  a  hare. 

U3d[  Picemberf  Ti(£'xJay*«^Marched  early,  and  at  two 
o'clock,  P.  M.  discovered  the  trace  of  the  party  on  the  op- 
posite side  of  the  river ;  forded  it,  although  extrem^y 
cold  and  ntarched  until  some  time  in  the  night,- when  we 
arrived  at  the  second  nights  encampment  of  the  party. 
Qur  doathing  was  frozen  stiff,  and  We  ourselves  were^con; 
sidera^ly  benumjbied*  ''^n      ' 

94f^k  December^  Wednesday^^-Ths  party's  provision 
^extending  only  to  the  23d,  and  their  orders  being  npt  tP 
It  until  they  killed  some  game,  and  then  wait,  for  us : 
oosequeutly  they  might  have  been  considerably  advanced, 
ut  11  o'clock,  met  doctpr  Robinson  on  a  prairie,  who 
formed  me  that  he  and  9aroney  had  been  absent  ^ons 
party  two  days  without  killing  any  thing,  (al^P  vrithov^ 
ing,)  but  that  over  night,  they  had  killed  four  bufialo^ 
that  he  was  in  search  of  the  men ;  and  suffered  the 
0  lads  with  me  to  go  to  the  camp  where  the  meat  was^- 
we  had  also  been  nearly  two  days  without  eating,    '^le 
ir  and  myself  pursued  the  trace  and  found  them 
iped  on  the  river  bottom.    Sent  out  horses  for  th^ 
;,  shortly  after  Sparks  arrived  and  informed  us  he  had 
fou^  cows.  Thus  from  being  in  a  starving  condiuon 
had  8  beeves  in  our  camp.     We  now  again  found  our.< 
es  all  assembled  together  on  Christmas  £ve,  and  ap. 
generally  to  be  content,  although  all  the  refresh- 
we  had  to  celebrate  that  day  with,  was  bufialo  meat, 
y^ggntnilitout  salt,  or  any  other  thing  whatever.    My  little  ejf^ 
ewebaolsion  up  the  river  was    in   order     to  establish  the 


at  the 
;  wtnt 
and  in 
!dto> 
gjiwith 
id  to  the 

e.    De- 
nine  the 

he  cr«A 

sent  out 

{  gnowins 

jervauon. 

afineplac» 
toUvrithi 

vrhom  » 
j^s  thm 
ecessarytktl 

dete 

the  rivet 

d  ascend 
•r  ^xdx\ 


tyself  an^ 
d  Miller) 

,rth  M^e* 
and  r 

ome  pls«^^ 
leep.  ^t* 


J 


Ul'i^'' 


nver  was    m 
z 


t    ■:. 


ITS 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE 


geogiii]>hy  of  the  sources  of  the  (supposed)  Red 
River,  is  I  well  knew  the  indefatigable  researches  of  doc- 
tor Hunter;  Dunbar  and  Freeman,  had  left  nothing  unao- 
ticed  in  th^  extent  of  their  voyage  up  said  river,  I  deter- 
mined thiit  its  upper  branches  should  be  equally  well  ex. 
plored  J  as  in  this  voyage  I  had  already  ascertained  the 
sources  of  the  Osage,  and  White  Rivers,  (been  round  the 
head  of  the  Kans  River)  and  on  the  head  waters  of  tbe 
Platte. 

''  ^  ^Stk  December i  Ti&ttr/^j;f.—It  being  stormy  weather 
aA^H  liaviiig  meat  to  dry ;  I  concluded  to  lie  by  this  day. 
^ere  I  must  take  the  liberty  of  observing  that  in  this  ska. 
ation,  the  hardships  and  privations  we  underwent,  were  on 
this  day  brought  more  ftilly  to  our  mind.  Having  been 
acciistomed  to  some  degree  of  relaxation,  aiid'extra  enjoj' 
m^nts;  but  here  800  miles  from  the  frontiers  of  our  counOf,j 
M  the  most  inclement  season  of  the  year;  not  one 
clothed  for  the  winfer,  mkny  vrithout  blankets,  (hi 
\ken  obliged  to  cut  them  up  for  socks,  &c.)  and  nOwb] 
l^g  down  at  night  on  the  snow  or  wet  ground ;  one  a 
bntbing  -Whilst  the  other  was  pierced  with  the  cold  wU; 
this '  Was  m  part  the  situation  of  the  party  vi\ 
sbme Ve^e  endeavoring  to  make  a  miserable  substitute 
raw;  buffalo  hide  for  shoes  &c.  I  will  not  speak  of 
as  {  conceive  that  to  be  beneath  the  serious  considei 
of  a  man  on' a  voyage  of  such  nattire.  We  spent  the 
fls  agk^eeably  as  could  be  expected  from  men  in  our  sii 
£bn.  Caught  a  bird  of  a  new  species,  having  nude 
trtp  for  him.* 

'    *Tbis  bird  was  cf  a  green  color,  almott  the  dse  of  a  qoall,  and  had  a 
Mft  on  it*  head  like  a  pheasant,  and  was  ,of  the  cainhrorous  species ;  it  d 
ftota  any  bird  we  ever  saw  in  the  United  Sutes.     We  kept  him  with  ui 
small  wicker  cage,  feeding  him  on  meal,  until  I  left  the  interpreter  on  the 
s«w,  with  whom  I  left  it.     We  at  one  time,  took  a  companion  of  the  same 
iiei,  and  pat  them  in  the  same  cage,  when  tbe  first  restdent  never  ceased 
ing  the  stranger  notil  he  killed  him. 


m 

thi 

ed 

sou 

pitci 

sequ 

on  tt 

trenie 
cueth 


30/Jl, 
one  o'cil 

'esledioads 


TO  THE  SOURCE,  OP  THE  ABrAvc 

«»  •eve"!  »«UI  wJr.'K.'r'*^^'"- W 
f"*.    il«  my  boy  ,«|  ^3  ""*»»  "'•"  from  the 

•eque-cof  which  we  w^tm„LT«'" "^^^ ''"  »'»- 
<»  "op. «»  weU  u  d„,  ^  ^-^'ff 'y  cove«d  with  ««,» 

»«4em«ive.  coUe-Z^T      l''^"««  «*  »d 
*««  no  road,  of  buiftlo.  or  Z!^f  l.^**    *''°™  '^o  - 
«« 4a'  neither  tho«  aS,^,T  "^J""*.  1 «-  convin*. 

«h» cliama  to  theright  or  C an?.  7  "»« c«^ oneof 
'fc'lowercount.y.  Vas  obSXl*i'r°°*"'»«  ^ 
."ly  4e  bagg^eat^vet^Xef  ^  ourho«^  a^ 

1«e»dfa.mtheipe^'r;*J''''=^  over  an  open 

t'^<'''«ofthe'nr«Lt7«"\'°^»^«'^ 
*e«««ice  of  the  most  pe™^£  "* "'«':'  ^^-flPed  at  . 

K  *«.»gh  which  Ae'^ri.t^r*^^  °"  •»"■ 
P^nce  16  mUe«.  '^°  »^  "w  courae  lay. 

-r.rfanewspedes^fSaK*'  '^'  •^«- 
«»<led  It  to  kill  him  but  did^T^  **  mountain, ; 
■P-si«li|yofget.i„;X*''»«-ceed.     FindinTS,' 

^.  which  with  the  Ln  of  t^*  hi  "^  '"*^*  °"«' 
"i-  ""^  "<>»«.  carries  their 

«oro.c?^t«a;rf-''ed:  but  at  iaif 

h'"''^^-''"^^''-'^ote:ifi-r„rpts 


190 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE 


m  m 


wm 


I: 


on 

pn 

wit 

thin 

iron 

tobt 


,dwing  to  the  Waters  mrniing  over  the  ke*    Distances 
miles.    Crossed  our  horses  twice  on  the  ictt* 

3l3t  December ,  f^<?^«w<fey.-^March€d  j  had  fre. 
quently  to  cross  the  river  oil  the  ice^  horses  falling  down, 
we  were  obliged  to  pull  them  over  on  the  ite*  The  ri^r 
turned  so  much  to  the  north,  as  almost  ittdtited  Usi  to  be- 
lieve  it  was  the  Arkansaw.    Distance  10  3^  miles. 

lit  January  l^QtJi  Thursday^ — ^The  doctor  and  one 
man  marched  early,  in  order  to  precede  the  party  until  they 
should  kill  a  supply  of  provision.  We  had  great  difficulty 
in  getting  our  hcMrses  along,  some  of  the  po<Mr  animals 
havmg  lidirly  killed  themselves  fidling  on  the  ic6»  Found 
on  the  way  one  of  the  mountain  irams  which  the  doctor 
^d  Brown  had  killed  and  lefk  in  the  road.  Skinned  it 
with  horns  &c;  At  night  amended  a  mountain,  and  dis< 
covered  a  prairie  ahead  about  eight  mileS)  the  news  of  whidi 
gave  great  joy  to  the  Jiaifty.  » 

idJfantUhy,  FriHay.'^lAb&ii^Kd  dll  day^lmt  made 
dnly  ohe  mile,  m<iny  of  Our  hc^es  much  woiihded  ki  falLj 
ing  on  the  rocks.    Pk'ovision  growing  6hort»  left  Stoute 
and  Miller  with  two  loads,  to  come  on  with  a  sled  on  dM 
ice,  which  was  on  the  water  in  some  of  the  coves.    Find' 
ingit  almost  impossible  to  proceed  any  further  with  the  hor< 
ses  by  the  bed  of  the  river,  ascended  the  mountun  and  iiB- 
mediately  after  were  again  obliged  to  descend  an  almost 
perpendicular  side  of  the  mountain  $  in  effecting  whicb,l  marched 
one  horse  fell  down  the  precipice,  and  brui^d  himself  sol  coi^'qu^ 
miserably,  that  I  conceived  it  mercy  to  caii^e  the  poorlcltffs  on  bi 
animal  to  be  shot.     Many  others  were  nearly  killed  witHtie  rocks 
falls  received  :  left  two  more  men  with  loads  and  tooktwexcept  i 
make  sleds.     The  two  men  we  had  left  in  the  mominlibout,  in  q 
had  passed  us.  f  ^'^panion 

3d  January,  Saturday. — Left  two  more  men  to  makpie  two  iadi 
sleds  and  come  on.     We  pursued  the  river,  and  wilPe  letter  d 


TO  THE  SOURCES  OF  TftE  ao,  . 
great  difficulty  nii«ien«mfl«h.(. 
on  theice.  and  covering  it  wU  JLT'"™"^  '""^  '•'»^» 

uung  oif.     Xfiis  day  two  nf  *k..  l       "^^'o*^*  We  saw  no- 

"'diera  rttlKthe  horses  T.         ^^""'y  »«l  ^w. 

°"e  way  for  ^"^'^  ^f-  J"  ««  s»»  p„ed. 

I  then  divided  the  othets^M  1  ^  ""onntaim  light, 
•»^.  «  make  sledsaS bZ oT^f^"  °'  "">  '^ 
™n«d  to  continue  doCrtetw"  I  '^«'-  '  d««- 
>ome«,s,enance.  and  find  LZ  m  '  T"'  '  «*""  «« 
*•  "«•  or  the  doctor  and  iTer"  ^^  '«*  <»  onthe 
«.  P«>"»»n.  and  every^t;""P™'».  ^'''^  M 
•«n  exertion  for  safetv  „H  „7^     *"  *"  ^^P^  on  his 

^"'^o  eight  S»Tl^r"     T""'-- « 
«"i  ha  companion  i  smtT?^*  ^-     '«'•  The  doctor 
^  The  inte^ret^^di    ::'"'*"****«»«^e? 
**;  Myself;  stk.  6th.  VtlTaJd  8*"?*"'"  **''°"" 
fW»  at  diflerent  distancT-  ^T\    "  "^  *'«'>  ^th 
^  or^  if  they  killeTa.;.'^^':''"'"  '""""^  *«  '»•» 
» a  conspicuous  place  for  tflif     '      '^'^  some  parj 
■»f  ed  on  abou' fi"' i'7„  ^"P---'-^  i«  the  ^^ 

.•Wnued  fell  throuirhTr         ""•"■' *'^<*  was  one 
*  on  both  sides    1:  ^^ T  ^"»*'  -"  ■•■»"»" 
K  ~cfcs  were  perpendf^  ™«^!  '  T .'°  "  "'^^  ^het^ 
(fcept.  narrow  bTrderjonthr      *  "''^'  =«<'"°ice 
K  »  order  to  disccilS':'^'--     '  "^^^  ">  '""t 


/$• 


r  . 


jOURNAt  OF  A  VOYAGE 
'  • -immediately imned me)  4ey 

^ ther  '»^°°'^f^,I  STfor  &e  last  two  dxfs, 
^5  that  *ey  l»d»'»;^3^^toyeboikdadeer 

^  that  this  night  *^  >J  "^Xovered  a  narrow  .a. 

ddntosobaston.    ^*  *'    f^  "doctor  and  Ws  compa. 
re.^herewasthe  t»ce  of  Ae^doc»>^^^^j^, 

rion .  as  the  wat«  had  m  down  ^  ^  ^  ^ 

^  one  continued  *eet  ^  '^  ^,  baggage-  Oa 

utmost  difficulty  and  '»a»gf' »^~^  ,„  encampment  rf 
Ae  summit  of  Aefi«^nd^-f°-^^  ^^^^  ^utthe, 

U.e  doctor,  and  wh^  *^  .^^^^  ^  that  the, 

had  now  no  meat.    H^JTrT  nring  on  a  tree,  but  sup- 
had  left  the  greatest  part  of  *  "angmg  ^^  ^^^ 

Led  the  birds  had  lestj^yed^  j]^  *„„/;„  order  » 
%  the  remainder  of  the  bagg^,  an^^      ^^  ^^es. 
Ju  some  subsistence^o™.^  a  dee^;^  ^  ^^en  I  r. 
of  the  night  approachmg.  could  ^^^  ^^  ^^ 

.„„ed  hungry,  weary  «.d^^»1h      J 
ply  the  calls  of  nature.  ^"^^     ,,„,  ;„  d,e  morning  « 
•^      5<i!.  J'»»<«"7.  Mon^J--^  T,^V„j  „p  some  of  thti 

hunt,  whUst  the  -°  ^» J^S^  ^"^'^ 
loads  sdU  left  at  the  f""*  "^T  ^  ^  aied  none,  and« 
veral  deer,  but  was  s^"^  »  ^  „,;„   „  i  ,„, 

examining  my  gun, d»c^v«rf  he  ^^^^^ 

p^,  to  some  fall  on  *e  ice,  j^^  ^j,, 

Reived  a  fall,  on  the  s.de  of  a  MU^^         ^^,^^^^^  J 

Ae  breach;  this  put  ">« ""^  ^''^f^' part  of  my  parq 
•  it,  as  my  gr»dest  resource  f«JJ^  ^  ^  and  hungry 

,;tumedto  7trSed1^JSSTeftthem,wia.J 
I  then  took  a  double  l>«?'7  ^  j  ^ould  return  W 

,„^cesthatthefirst«u^    k.;^;^^^  ^^  y,he 

part  for  their  reUef.     Abo^  t«>         „„bounded  space 

'-•^^°'*r'SS;.e?*eivesto  my  view,, 
the  praines  again  presemeu 


i 


'i  ii, 


TO  THE  SOURCES  OF  THE  ARKANSAW,  8tc.    18$ 


in  the 
•  daysi 
t  a  deer 
rowia* 
cotnpa* 
hard,  it 
with  the 
age.  Ott 
ptnent  oi 
but  they 
that  thq 
.,  but  sup- 
s  to  bring 
in  order  to 
^e  darkness 
when  I  w- 
now  to  sup.  I 

morning  to 
)meof  thw 
founded  8^ 
none,  and  01 

ing  as  I  sup-l 

krtlyaft^"*' 

[kfi  ber  off bll 

jcalculatedoa 

,f  my  pa^n 
and  hungry, 
them,  with  as^ 
[id  return  vit 
se  the  highe 
mded  space 
my  view,  * 


from  some  distant  peaks,  I  immedi-'tely  recogmzed  it  to 
be  the  outlet  of  the  i^kansaw,  v!  i  we  had  lef:  nearly 
one  month  since  I  This  was  a  grc^  mortification,  but  at 
the  same  time  I  consoled  myself  with  the  knowledge  I  had 
acquired  of  the  soutce  of  the  La  Platte  and  Arkansaw 
rivers,  with  the  river  to  the  north  west,  supppsed  to  be  the 
Pierre  Jaun,  which  scarcely,  any  person  but  a  madman 
would  ever  purposely  attempt  to  trace. any  further  than 
the  entrance  of  those  mountains,  which  had  hitherto  se- 
cured their  sources  from  the  scrutinizing  eye  of  civilized 
man. 

I  arrived  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  and  bank  of  the 
river,  in  the  afternoon,  and  at  the  same  time  discovered 
on  the  other  shore,  Baroney  with  the  horses;  they 
had  found  quite  an  eligible  pass,  and  had  killed  one  bufr 
falo  and  some  deer.  We  proceeded  to  our  old  camp, 
which  we  had  left  the  10th  of  December,  and  re-occupied 
it.  Saw  the  traces  of  the  doctor  and  his  companion,  but 
could  not  discover  their  retreat. 

.  This  was  ray  hittb-day,  and  most  fervently  did  I  hop^ 
never  to  pass  another  so  miserably.  Distance  7  miles. 
Fired  a  gun  off  as  a  signal  for  the  doctor. 

6th  January,  Tuesday, — ^Dispatched  the  two  soldiers 
back  with  some  provision  to  meet  the  first  lads,  and  assist 
them  on,  and  the  interpreter  a  hunting.  About  eight 
o'clock  the  doctor  came  in,  having  seen  some  of  the  men. 
He  had  been  confined  to  the  camp  for  one  or  two  days,  by 
a  vertigo  which  proceeded  from  some  berries  he  had  eaten 
Ion  the  mountains.  His  companion  brought  down  six 
deer,  which  they  had  at  their  camp ;  thus  we  again  began 
to  be  out  of  danger  of  starving.  In  the  afternoon,  some 
of  the  men  arrived,  and  part  were  immediately  returned 
Iwith  provisions,  &c.    Killed  three  deer. 

Vh  January,  Wedmsday*-^ent  more  men  l?ack  to 


L'^  5  ^• 


"'WX'] 


w^ 


'SIP^ 


'I  ^  llill 


184 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE 


Tf 


18* 

at  the  same  time  kept  Baroney  »na  <»»  ,  _^  ^^,^^ 

KUled  Aree  deer.     _      _    __  ^  ^  ^^  difforent  pair. 
«i  Jaman,  ^^''^''^''^y^  my  rifle }  oAm 
tiesamved.    P"' °»«  "^I  ^St«o  deer, 
gent  back  to  .»bt  ^'^'^^  ^de  party  «as  o«. 
9/*  J'"»'"7'J'ZL  we  felt  comparativeVy  happy. 
morejobKid  «»g«*~' "''f'V^litotio  Jl  experienced  a 
notwiteanding  the  ff^  "^^""^  to  th^  Red  rive, 
having  been  so  eg^P'T^  °     ^^^  to.  proceed,  as  any 
I  now  felt  at  considerab k  loss  how        V    ^^^  ^_^^^,^ 

Ide,  of  services  at  ^«  ^^^^  ^^  fo^ed  and  r^ecU 
preposterous;  «•>"»  ^'^^  "^"KuLdon,  Ideter,pined  to 
L.and  the  most  ~JfS»i«. -^  »-- "T 
build  a  s«aU  Pl-f^^^^'^'^tterpretlr  and  one  man,  ^ 
<rf  the  baggage,  horses,  my  u  /\j^  ents,  ammuni- 
^th  the  bihnce,  our  P-^^^  ^,  ^.untains  on  fo«, 

dons  tools,  &c.  on  our  backs, '"«!"    ,  ^^  to  conduct 
"fi^dtheRedriver^th^s^dba^a^P-^^  ^^^  ^ 

their  horses  »*  ^^f  ^  the  horses  would  be  so  » 
could  <«-=<'-'' ^^J^*eXre  the  fatigue,  of  d»e  marct 
covered  as  to  be  *le^»ji„„^  ,„^ewere  put» 

to  consequence  f  JT  ^'        «,„«  to  hunting,  «.mett 
constructing  the  block  houB^.       ^^  .^  prep»* 

taking  care  of  horses^.  ^-J^^  ,hich  wOuU 
dons  to  pursue  a  ~r!  °..ri,ude  and  lonptude  of  to 

-"'?  *'  :?ch  iCeW^  r^  an  importS^t  one.  U 

delation,  which  I  conceiveu  i«ntnegT< 

ed  three  deer.  s.,^^,._Killed  five  deer 5   took| height  , 

ICXi  Ja>"^'  Zn^^^  of  two  stars,  &c.  b«t|„,h,  and 
T^^^::l^^l    Killed  three, deer._^^  .gh.  Red 


u 

amarcl] 

IS 

pack.    ' 

mooii)  V 

ofasceiti 

of  Jupite 

four  deer 

I4t/. 

consKtuic 

uscarryii 

proper,  w 

leaving  Bj 

We< 

of  the  riv« 

fork,  on  -vt 

Itheinounti 

Thed 

I5th, 


land 


passec 


fountains, 
'unter,  we 
wrought  the 
i6i/fj 
iy«  Encai 
|unt,  but  ki 
lessenii 
l7tbJa 
lenthe 


equal  altitudes  -,  f  8"'"  .T    S^led  three  deer, 
do  not  now  recollect  «^^_£^f  Jf^  the  ladtude  aaJ 
nth  Jonu^ry^Suxda,.-^^  Kilkdfourdeet 


ao  nuL  "-"  --  ,    AscertaineQ  me  wwi.—  —    «uu  core  a 

took^e'tnS'^SS"^'-"^'^^'""'"^'   "•^"' 


"ghtRedr 
*nd  bore  a 


TO  THE  SOURCES  OF  THE  ARKANSAW,  &c.  tU 


tpar- 
0ihers 


19th  January,  Mon^/tf^.-^Preparing  the  baggage  for 
a  march  by  separating  it,  &c.     Observations  continued. 

13th  January,  Tuesday.^^W&ghed  out  each  inan's 
pack.  This  day  I  obtained  the  angle  between  sun  and 
moon,  which  I  conceived  the  most  correct  way  I  possessed 
of  ascertaining  the  longitude,  as  animmersion^and  emersion 
of  Jupiter's  satellites  could  not  now  be  obtained.  Killed 
four  deer. 

I4th  January,  Wednesday. — ^We  marched  our  party^ 
consisting  of  18  soldiers,  the  doctor  and  myself,  each  of 
us  canying  45lb.  and  as  much  provision  as  he  thought 
proper,  which,  with  arms,  &c.  made  on  an  average,  70lbs< 
leaving  Baroney  and  onemaui,  Patrick  Smith. 

We  crossed  the  first  ridge  (leaving  the  main  branch 
of  the  river  to  the  north  of  us,)  and  struck  on  the  south 
fork,  on  which  we  encamped,  intending  to  pursue  it  thro' 
the  mountains,  as  its  course  was  more  southerly. 
The  doctor  killed  one  deer.    Distance  1 3  miles. 
15th  January,  TAwr jdlflty.— Followed  up  this  branch 
land  passed  the  main  ridge,  of  what  I  term  the  Blue 
buntains.    Halted  early.    The  doctor,  myself,  and  one 
iunter,  went  out  with  our  guns,  each  killed  a  deer,  and 
rought  them  into  camp.     Distance  19  miles. 

16/A  January,  Friday. — ^Marched  up  the  creek  all 

ly.    Encamped  early  as  it  was  snowing.    I  went  out  to 

It,  but  killed  nothing.    Deer  on  the  hill ;  the  moun- 

lessemng.    Distance  18  miles. 

IVh  January,  Saturday.'^Mvocched  about  four  miles, 

en  the  great  White  Mountain  presented  itself  before 

^^gg]>  ^   tool^M,  in  sight  of  which  we  had  been  for  mpre  than  one 


Btiirs,  &c 

leer. 

»e  latitude 


bull 


nth,  and  through  which  we  supposed  lay  the  long 

ight  Red  river.     We  now  left  the  creek  on  the  north  of 

and  bore  away  more  east,  to  a  low  place  in  the  moun- 

led  four  deerlis.    About  sun-set  we  came  to  the  edge  of  a  prairie, 

A  a 


',\hf,- 


jOVKNAL  OF  A  VOYAtfE 


K\\Tdi  said  ptairie,  crossed  the  a^  ^^^  ,^ 

"^        H.^we  all  got  our  ^««V^^*      ,  ^^  tbe^oods, 

east.    Here  we        e  ^     ^^  \aitea  ai 

!lced  ejitremely  cold.     A^/ n^         ^^^    getting  to 

•  ht  o'clock,  for  encampment ,  ^^^  ^^ 

*'  !'^     raUcoveredthat  the  feet  of  nme  ^^  ^j 

^nade,  we  discove  ^^^  misiortune,  oi 

niifht  we  had  no  pr"        p»;..anre  28  miles. 
Sat  18  1-2°  '^r Jl^f^^ed  «.o  .rf  *e  m 

l«6  J-"-"";'  ^r^rZ  myself,  who  fortunatd! 

•   oi-pa  •  rthe  doctor  ana  u  j  to  hunt  soim-I 

t£:U  *«e  balls^  '^f deluded  it  ^  4 

hLot  »»d  '^*°"'  rf     We  »g^  tool'  *^  *'^r 

•      after  cra«Ung*o«t one  m^«^^^^,,^aplij 
.  eight  times  among  a  gang    j^^ly  wounded.  b»t  hy^ 
!^ceive  two  or  three  to  beba   Y  ^^ 

C.l^  took  the  wmd  erf  v.,  »d        .^^  ^  ^^^  ^ 

ti^  aU  were  aWe  '« '"f  f^   "{be  fourth  day,  sm« 
extrem^iy  weAandfamt.b^g  ^^  ^^„  ^ 

Zi  recived  s"^"'"*"'!  ^,a1,arcely  dosed  our  eye* 
tog  hardandthe  last  "^J^^tour  J  to  apoint  of  ^j 
iL     We  were  mchwng  our  c  ^selves  nil 

SLinTd  to  remain  absent  and  d.  by 


there 
woods 

at  XM) 

in  the 

)igirho(e 

lit  com* 


ing 


fires 


out  tnen 
I  bothoi 

gnoometa 

af  tbemevl 
f0tt»naA«*t| 

J  pounded »] 
[atton  to  sttj 
i  it  ^«3  ^1 

jidsatup*! 
able  to  s\ee^| 


,k  the  field 

got  to  sb( 

\  cou\d  p^^i 

^,btttbya 

great  too 
lhadbec< 

h  day,  si»<^« 
^e  were  ©' 
3sed  our  eyes 
a  point  of  ^' 
ourselves  rai 


TO  THE  SOURCES  OP  THE  ARKANSAW,  kc.    187 

than  to  return  to  our  camp  and  behold  the  misery  of  our 
poor  lads,  when  we  discovered  a  gang  of  buffalo  coming 
along  at  some  distance.  With  great  exertions  I  made  out 
to  run  and  place  myself  behind  some  cedars  and  by  the 
greatest  of  good  luck,  the  first  shot  stopped  one,  which  we 
killed  in  three  more  shots ;  and  by  the  dusk  had  cut 
each  of  us  a  heavy  load  with  which  we  determined  imme« 
diately  to  proceed  to  the  camp  in  order  to  relieve  the  anx- 
iety of  our  men,  and  carry  the  poor  fellows  some  food. 
We  arrived  there  about  12  o'clock,  and  when  I  threw  my 
load  down,  it  was  with  difficulty  I  prevented  myself  from 
falling ;  I  was  attacked  with  a  gkldiness  of  the  head,  which 
lasted  for  some  minutes.  On  the  countenances  of  the  men 
was  not  a  frown,  nor  a  desponding  eye ;:  but  all  seemed 
iiaj^py  to  hail  their  officer  and  companions,  yet  not  a 
mouthftil  had  they  eat  for  four  days.  On  demanding 
what  was  their  thoughts,  the  sergeant  replied,  on  the  mor» 
row  the  most  robust  had  determined  to  set  out  in  search 
of  us;  and  not  return  unless  they  found  us,  or  killed 
something  to  preserve  the  life  of  their  starving  compa- 
nions. 

20tb  January f  Tuesday.-^The  doctor  and  all  the 
men  able  to  march,  returned  to  die  buffalo  to  bring  in  the 
lalanceofthemeat. 

On  examining  the  feet  of  those  who  were  frozen  we 

d  it  impossible  for  two  of  them  to  proceed,  and 

others  only  without  loads  by  the  help  of  a  stick.    One 

the  former  was  my  waiter,  a  promising  young  lad  of 

«ty  whose'  feet  were  so  badly  frozen,  as  to  present 

ery  probability  <^  loosing  them. 

The  doctor  and  party  returned  towards  evening  load- 
with  the  buffalo  meat. 

2} St  January,  Wednesday.-^This  day,  separated  the 
lur  loads,  we  intended  to  leave  and  took  them  at  some  diiu 


i-^wSI 


IM 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGfi 


tance  from  the  camp,  where  we  securedtheni^i  went  up 
to  the  foot  of  the  mountaia  to  see  what  prospect  there  waa  of 
being  able  to  cross  it,  but  had  not  more  thanfinrly  arrived 
at  its  base,  when  I  found  the  snow  four  or  five  feet  deep ; 
this  obliged  me  to  determine  to  proceed  and  cotoyer  die 
mountain  to  the  south,  where  it  appeared  lower,  and  until 
we  found  a  place  where  we  could  cross. 

22d  January,  Thursday. — ^I  furnished  the  two  poor 
lads  who  were  to  remain  with  anmiunition  and  made  use  of 
every  argument  in  my  power  to  encourage  them  to  have 
fortitude  to  resist  thdur  fate ;  and  gave  them  assurance  of 
my  sending  relief  as  soon  as  possible. 

We  parted,  but  not  without  tears.  We  pursued  our 
march,  taking  merely  sufficient  provisions  for  one  meal  in 
order  to  leave  as  much  as  possible  for  the  two  poor  fellows, 
who  remained  (who  were  John  Sparks  and  Thomas  Dough* 
erty.)  We  went  on  eight  miles  and  encamped  ona  little 
creek,  which  came  down  from  the  mountains ;  at  three 
o'clock  went  out  to  hunt,  but  killed  nothing.  Little  snow. 

23d  January,  Friday.-^Aiter  shemng  the  sergeant 
a  point  to  steer  for,  the  doctor  and  myself  proceeded  oa 
ahead  in  hopes  to  kill  something,  as  we  were  again  without 
victuals.  About  one  o'clock  it  commenced  snowing  veiy 
hard,  we  retreated  to  a  small  copse  of  pine  where  we  coo^ 
structed  a  camp  to  shelter  us,  and  as  it  was  time  the  paitj 
should  arrive,  we  sallied  forth  to  search  them.  Viti 
separated  and  had  not  marched  more  than  one  or  tm 
miles,  when  I  found  it  impossible  to  keep  any  course  widv 
out  the  compass,  continually  In  my  hand,  and  then  notj 
being  able  to  see  more  than  10  yards.  I  began  to  percdi 
the  difficulty  even  of  finding  the  way  back  to  our>  cam] 
and  I  can  scarcely  co;aceive  a  more  dreadful  idea  than  re 
maining  on  the  wild,  where  inevitable  death  must  have  enj 
i^uedf    It  was  with  great  pleasure  I  again  reached  the  cam] 


poly  he 
ver  to 
itunnotice 
We  ausp 

fed  limbs 
lyself  wh 

le  plain. 

Proceed 
uit  oft! 

The  dc 

and  got 


er,  and  untU 


'^•*«.«l^  finding  dteZ^    J^*J™»«»  *«>i  am 

"oumain.  in  which  w^H^^P'  *«  ««vette  of  V 
»  deep,  it  wa.  :„Z.  f  .P*'*^««d,  until  the  snn»  k 
.„  *^ ""^"nixxi^letoniuowj       ™*™ow  became 
I  f  "J ^« '0  4ephin„d  L  Z? i  when  I  again  turn- 

fou"''  "y^df  di«ou«^ed,  L  ;l'^  *!»«  in  the  voyage 

»»"  express  himself  inVsi^         *"'*»«  t  heard  a 

:*«i'  was  mot.^u^tnlTr"'  "^^'^^ 
"march  three  davs  unVK  mature couJd  bear    f« 

"^s"&c. &c.  ^^  burthens  only  fit  for  hor 

H  he  could  not  en^J^fe^?  "^  ^  P°°''-«Uoi? 
h«-  to  chastise  him.  ^h^J  ""?  *»'  i'  *as  i„     * 
t  ""noticed  for  the  mom^Mei;*^'  P">P^.  I  passed 
.^  auspicious  time.    X  j^fT"'  *"  "°*«  it  at  a 
Wjnnhs  along.  ^  Zl^Z^^^^^^ 
mit  who  were  in  advanr^  w;  •^'^^  doctor  and 

^Pbin.  when  we  leff ^1^^'^ "". """^  '^'^^- 
'P-oceed  tothenearestwoS^'^""'^  °»*«»ow. 

"»-of4ebuiaio.wK:^°orr'-    "^^"^'^  ' 
The  doctor  who  wa«  a     ■        "*  "O"*- 

"-"got  behind  a  hranSfl'-t'"'*^  ™^«f. 

and  Shot  one  down,  which  stop. 


y    jl 


m 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAO£ 


|i'*N 


ti 


i'i'ii!' 


r 


jM..       Tsla 


».i--b?p:». 


■m'm 


KK  *: 


PI- nil 
m  fir' 


i  ■(■» 


M 


« 


ped  the  remalniler.    We. crawled  up  to  the  detd  one  md 

ahot  from  him  as  many  as  twelve   or  fourteen  times 

among  the  gang ;  when  th«y  removed  out  of  sight.    We 

then  proceeded  to  butcher  the  one  we  had  shot ;  and  after 

procuring  each  of  us  a  load  of  the  meat,  we  marched  for 

the  camp,  the  smoke  of  which  was  in  view.    We  arrived 

at  the  camp  to  the  great  joy  of  our  brave  lads,  who  imm^ 

diately  feasted  sumptuously,  after  our  repast  I  sent  for  the 

lad  who  had  presumed  to  speak  dbcontentedly  in  t&e 

course  of  the  day,  and  addressed  him  to  the  following  ef. 

ect :  *'  Brown,  you  this  day  presumed  to  make  use  of  las. 

**  guage  which  was  seditious  and  mutinous ;  I  then  pass* 

'^  ed  it  over,  pitying  your  atuation  and  attributing  it  (i 

**  your  distress,  rather  than  yout  inclination,  to  sow  dis< 

^*  content  toiongst  the  party.    Had  I  reserved  provisions 

^<  for  ourselves,  whilst  you  were  starving }  had  we  beeg 

^  marching  along  light  and  at  our  ease,  whilst  you  were 

^'  weighed  down  with  your  burden ;  then  you  would  have 

**  had  some  pretext  for  your  observations ;  but  when  m 

^<  were  equally  hungry,  weary,  emaciated  and  charged 

«  with  burden,  which  I  believe  my  natural  strength  is  lesi 

*'  able  to  bear,  than  any  man's  hi  the  party ;  \dien  we  w 

**  always  foremost  in  breaking  the  road,  reconnoitering  andHto  cross 

**  the  fetigues  of  the  chace;  it  was  the  height  of  ingratitudtlour  depc 

*<  in  you,  to  let  an  expression  escape  'W^ch  was  indica*! 

«( tive  of  discontent ;  your  ready  compliance  and  firm  per 

*<  severance  j  I  had  reason  to  expect,  as  the  leader  of  mi 

**  and  my  companions,  in  miseries  and  dangers.   But  youivafers  off 

«  duty  as  a  soldier  called  on  your  obedience  to  your  oificerV4  mi/es. 


assi 

to  I 

storn 

contii 

so  We 

perish 

1 

threeo 

atwhic 

ac 

itooast 
aodieai 
iepoak 

lage&c 
87/ 


<*  and  a  prohibition  of  such  language,  which  for  this  timej 
**  I  will  pardon,  but  assure  you,  should  it  ever  be  repeate 
<«  by  instant  death,  I  will  revenge  your  ingratitude 
**  punish  your  disobedience,    f  take  this  opportunity  likd 
«<  wise  to  assure  you,  soldiers  generally  of  my  thanks 


2m\ 
discoi 
itoqt, 

itedj 
te  lengthl 


.i"!l' 


TO  THE  SOURCES  OF  THE  ARKANSAW,  Itc.    191 


otieind 

n  6fMt 

Kt.    We 
and  after 

^hedfor 

re  arrived 

lentforthe 

dly  in  Ae 
jUovringel- 
»use  of  bfr 
I  thcnpa*- 

ed  proviaoM 
bad-wcbea 

hilst  you  vreR 
,^  would  te 
\)ut  vhcn  ^ 
and  clwrgei 
strength  is  lea 
^enweatt 


**  obedience,  penefvcraoce  md  ready  cootempt  of  tv«ry 
<*  danger,  which  you  hsve  generally  evinced  i  I  asture  yot 
<«  nothing  ahall  be  wanting  on  my  pait,  to  procure  fou 
«<  the  rewardt  of  our  government  and  gntitnde  of  yoor 
•<  countrymen." 

They  all  appeared  very  much  affected,  and  retired  with 
assurances  of  perseverance  in  duty  &c.  Distance  9  mttes. 

2Stb  January,  Surulaf**^  determined  never  again 
to  march  with  ao  little  provisioi  on  hand )  as  had  the 
atom  continued  one  day  ionger,  the  animals  would  hsve 
ccmtinued  in  the  mountains,  and  we  should  have  became 
so  weak  as  not  to  be  able  to  hunt,  and  of  course  haive 
perished. 

The  doctor  went  out  with  the  boys,  and  they  secured 
three  of  the  buffalo  $  we  commenced  bringing  in  the  meat^ 
at  v^ch  we  continued  all  day.  > 

^6tb  January^  M«nday*'^-4^ki  aU  the  meatand  dried 
it  on  a  scaffold,  imendmg  to  take  as  much  as  possible  akmg 
and  leave  one  of  my  fh>zen  lads  with  the  balance,  as  li 
I  deposit  for  the  parties  who  might  retnm  for  their  bag* 
I  gage  &c.  on  their  way  to  Baroney's  camp. 

ItftB  January,  Tuesday, — We  marched,  determining 


.   ^-  anlBtocJfoas  the  mountp'Tis,  leaving  Memtugh  encamped  with 


Ich  ^^ 


in^o-l 


ice  and  firm  pcr.| 
le  leader  of  tne 


Butr 
oiBcerj 


Lgers 

[e  to  your 
Ich  for  this  tim« 

ever  be  repeat 
ingratitude 
jpportunity  uw 
jf  my  tlwn^ 


our  deposit,  afte^  a  bad  days  march,  ihiiough  sMXin,  some 

three. feet  deep;  we  struck  oh  a  brook  which  led 

which  I  followed  down,  and  shortly  came  to  a  small 

running  west ;  which  We  hailed  with  fervency  as  the 

ers  of  the  Red  river.    $a|r  some  sign  of  elk.   Distance 

4miles.  -  <'\^>-i:l  .^iii 'Hftir,  ■  h 

2Sih  January,  J^ednisday.^-'VoViowid  down  the  ravine 
discovered  after  some  time  that  there  had  been  a  road 

It  ot|t,  and  on  many  trees  wefe  various  hieroglyphicks 
ted ;  after  marching  some  miles,  we  discovered  through 

le  lengthy  vista  at  a  distance,  another  chain  of  mountains 


mi"* 


U'A  if 

v-wm 


mm  If  1 


JOUUNAI.  OF  A  VOYAGE 


i.  outUt  of  the  "«»«r*;^  rand  the  moaatam..... 
bright;  kept  ^-".^S'^of  theUrge-  hiU. 
TVhen  we  encamped,  I  Mce™       ^j^.  Urge  nm, 

rf ^ and ^i.hmygl--^'^  ^  b^  ea*.  through 
ao,ring  nearly  norA  ^^r^^  cfcain  of  mountaB-, 
d«pWn*hich«n«o<»t«»r  ^een  the  two  mou.. 
Xut  U.  7«'  W.  the  P»«^ T*!  returned  to  can, 
X.  bor*  nearly  nor*  »»f  «»  Vaand  WU»  «««^ 
^Aen^wsof  my^ven^;  ^,  „„„.««»«**«. 

•^Set^s^^pS^trsr-^/..:^- 

^--^S^r?^^ 
^  toe.  we  -"^..^Cncefromthemou. 
«hlch  m«ledowna  ^^^^  ot  horses. 
^.    Distance  n»^^j;^,,^  hard,  and  «• 

8ai  J«««ry.  f-^-    ^,,^  ^u«v  supposed  ReJ 

^,edinthe^en>«^^^Xce2*nules.  J 
river)  of  the  Rio  ^fj„^As  there  was  no  timbet 
I     «'»J--'>^tS^i  we  found  tW 

here ^.  <»««™rtl^Tdescend  the  river  M^ 
ia  order  ton>al«  »n«»P°f^^„„datfoutorfivenusH 

^here  we  '»'8'>' «f*tce^S"^^  barbarity  c'    ' 
aefendagai^tt^e-n^-^;^  «  «siston*.  ,. 
savages,  whilt  the  ^^^  ^  ^gaent  pourts. 
fellows  wKo  >»«*  i^^r^  „et  a  large  west  bran. 

•^•"t^i^-c  £^-«^  "p  ^■'^'=^  '^'""^ 

emptying  m  <-  Jie  v****** 


I'  'iJi'i." 


i!ii;i 


«        I: 


which 
led)  on 

sertto 

It  VuUft 
e  river, 
through 

a  mouiw 
to  cainip 
extend 
«i8iah«tt 

vridth* 
leseaini 
vegeta:^ 


TO  THE  SOURCES  OF  THE  ARKANSAW,  kc.    Ifi^ 
we  took  Up  our  stadon.    Killed  one  deer.    Distance  I'S 


UtF0btrmuji  Stm^^y^'^ladd  out  the  place  for  our 
vorl'f,  aad  ^<At  out  huntiiig. 

9d  Ffiruaryt  Monday.^^The  doctor  and  myself  wcnr 
out  to  hunt,  and  with  great  difficulty^  l>y  night,  killed  on« 
deer,  at  the  distance  of  seven  or  ^ht  miles  from  camp, 
which  we  carried  in. 

Sd  February,  Tutsday.^^pent  in  reading,  &c. 
4tb  February^  Wl?^' t  Ly.— Went  out  hunting,  but 
could  not  kill  any  *^.n.^      0<  .e  of  my  men  killed  a  deer. 

Stb  February,  Thfrsday, — ^The  doctor  and  myself 
went  out  to  hi.?>t,  and  alter  chasing  some  deer  for  several 
hours,  with  r.    Access,  we  ascended  a  high  hill,  which  lay 
south  of  our  camp,  from  whence  we  had  a  view  of  all  the 
pral*')e  and  riverft  to  the  north  of  us  \  it  was  at  the  same 
dme  one  of:  the  most  sublime  and  beautiful  inland  pro^ 
spects  ever  presented  to  the  eyes  of  man.     The  prairss 
lying  nearly  north  and  south,  was  orobably  60  miles  by  45. 
The  main  river  bursting  out  of  the  western  mountain^ 
and  meeting  from  the  north-east,  a  large  branch,  which 
A  9Sid  U'ldivides  the  chain  of  mountains,  proceeds  down[the  prairie, 
nnosed  Kedlmaking  many  large  and  beautiful  islands,  one  of  which  I 
'les  Budge  contsuns  100,000  acres  of  land,  all  meadow  ground,r 

no  timbaftovered  with  innumerable  herds  of  deer ;  about  six  miles 
If  ^^.^  ^beit Kram  the  mountsdns  which  cross  the  prairie,  at  the  south 
id,  a  branch  of  12  steps  wide,  pays  its  tribute  to  the 
lain  stream  from  the  west  course.  Due  "W.  12".  N.  75% 
'^''  6*.    Four  miles  below  is  a  stream  of  the  same  size, 
*  .nters  c    uie  east ;  its  general  course  is  N.  65°.  E. 
wriich  was  a  large'road  j  from  the  entrance  of  this  down, 
about  three  miles,  to  the  junction  of  the  west  fork, 
ich  waters  the  foot  of  the  hill  on  the  north,  whilst  the 
river  wound  along  in  meanders  on  the  east.  In  short, 

Bb 


Ustance  tw 
tver.inad*- 
5  of  woods, 

theino^ 


^e  river 

orfiveiwg' 
larbarity^' 

5t  on  di^  I 

points. 

te  west  bra»' 
)Utfivenul< 


L  A 


k  ^ntl 


194, 


JOURNAL  or  A  VOYAGE 


»A       'i 


ir-W        t 


this  view  combined  the  sublime  and  beautiful ;  itbe  great 
and  lofty  mountains  covered  with  eternal  snows,  seemed 
to  surround  the  luxuriant  vale,  crowned  with  ^pierennial 
flowers,  like  a  terrestrial  paradise,  shut  out  from  the  view 
of  man.  "      ''  ■    '■>'■  r"-'-  '       ■  '  " 

'  '  6th  February,  Friday.'^The  doctor  having  somepe. 
cuniary  demands  in  the  province  of  New  Mexico^  con- 
ceived  this  to  be  the  most  eligible  point  for  him  to  go  in, 
..id  return  p.^vious  to  all  my  party  having  joined  me 
from  the  ArkansaW,  and  that  I  was  prepared  to  descend  to 
Natchitoches :  he  dierefore  this  day  made  his  preparatioos 
for  marching  to-morrow.  I  went  out  hunting,  and  killed 
a  deer  at  three  miles  distance,  which,  with  great  difficulty 
I  brought  in  whole.  mhw, 

We  continued  to  go  on  with  the  works  of  oyr  stock, 
ade  or  breast  work,  which  was  situated  on  the  north  banki 
of  the  west  branch,  about  five  miles  from  its  junction  with] 
the  main  river,  and  was  on  a  strong  plan.* 


i 

pa 

ike 

ha\ 

col 

wit/ 

thet 

with 

toog 

^gree 

cause 

cei ve  ^ 

them; 


*  The  stockade  was  situated  in  a  small  prairie  on  the  west  fork  of  the  Rio  M 
Norte-  The  south  flank  joining  the  edge  of  the  river  (which  at  that  place  m  I 
not  fordable),  the  east  and  west  cur  -tins  were  flanked  by  bastions  in  the  north-oitj 
and  north-west  angles,  which  likewise  flanked  the  curtam  of  the  north  side  of  tkl 
work.  The  stockade  from  the  ceiitre  of  the  angle  of  the  bastions  was  36 1 
square.  There  were  heavy  cotton-wood  log  j,  about  two  feet  diameter,  laid  if  I 
all  round  about  six  feet,  after  which  lighter  ones,  until  we  made  it  twelve  fcttil 
height :  those  logs  were  joined  together  by  a  lap  of  about  two  feet  at  each  ail| 
Wc  then  dug  a  small  ditch  on  the  inside  all  round,  making  it  perpendicular  on  t 
internal  side  and  sloping  next  the  work.  In  this  ditch  we  planted  small  stakes,^ 
about  six  inches  diameter,  sharpened  at  the  upper  end  to  a  nice  point,  slanted  th 
over  the  top  of  the  work,  giving  them  about  two  feet  and  a  half  projection.  W(| 
then  secured  them  below  and  above  in  that  position,  which  formed  a  small  pointei 
firise,  which  must  have  been  removed  before  the  works  could  have  been  la 
Lastly,  we  had  dug  a  ditch  round  the  whole  four  feet  wide,  and  let  the  watu  i| 
all  round,  the  earth  taken  out  being  thrown  against  the  work  formed  an  excelled 
rampart  against  small  arms  three  or  four  feet  high.  Our  mode  of  getting  in  ^ 
to  crawl  over  the  ditch  gn  a  plank,  and  into  a  small  hole  sunk  below  the  level  P^  trade,  force  I 
the  work  near  the  river  for  that  purpose.  Our  port-holes  were  pierced  abont  e!v'°>>  a^  a  citjzj 
feet  from  the  gtound,  and  a  platform  prepared  tu  shoot  from.  r^^^  or  deman] 

_*'«d  mhabita 


TO  THE  SOURCES  OF  THE  A pv. 

^f   I  HE  ARKANSAW  «r J     ,« 

for  &nta  Fe..  and  as  it  ^  ^^l^*™"  '"^^h'd  alone 
danan  would  ever  j<A.„^J"7^,  "''"her  dris  „«,. 

Ace.  Heha,hadd,e'be„S7;£»y&P«d.lo„toef. 
^^S  spent  hfe  dme  as  too  Z»7l  *^"''*'°»' '?**<>« 
^"eges,  vie.  in  3ki„„i„     oTI  ! T ^^''^-n^i do i„ 

•""■out  ever  endeavourin/to^^tl^""''  "''  '^^^, 
*e  solid  foundations  Zn\^^  *emselves  masters  of 

-•*  Aese  qualifiS  he  l?°r  "*"'»<' '•««on^f 
'«>  g«at  ever  to  reje^  a^  hCh:"^^"'^""'^  °f  -^d 
agreeable  to  the  do^as  of  T^n  ^"^ ''  "^  "<« 

causeithadallthc'^iatrfit     ."  '"f"<^'^*>-- 
«ve  great  actions,  and  his  h»7~*'  '°"'  ^""'d  con- 

^^   ^  •"'^  ™at  nothing  was     ^ 

-  escape  «nd^  11?"  T'  "^^  '"«  «>'  second  It  lT,f'  '"'^^'''^  '^  'oo 
'^Wmate.  were  in  .Zei       *'''^"'»°  ^d  on  persons  in  CwT       ""•  ^""• 

Nson.  conceS  fw  """""  '"  *■«  «*«  benefit.     Wh2T     J'*"**^  '»'* 
[n  the  R./!:  ^  ^"*  "  *^«  P''?«We  that  I «;!».»  '  *"'  »'"'"*  ^o  ««/. 

F'lfldTirr  "^.-^''^  '^-S.  n  :Ttr  '^^"'■"'  ^-^» 
»;^^sa„taPe.Ts:e:::::::^^^^^-'^^n^^^^^ 


;   J 


196 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAdR 


mx 


Ilii 


''  'M'- 


above  I^s  genius,  nor  any  thing  so  nunulie  that  )wi  coo. 
ceived  it  entirely  unworthy-of  consilSeration.  M  a  fs/enn^ 
man  and  companion  in  dangers,  difficulties  and  hardship^ 
I  in  particular,  and  the  expedition,  generally)  owe  much 
to  his  exertions.  In  the  evening  I  dispatc^ied  corpoud 
Jackson*  with  four  men,  to  re-cross  the  mountains,  in  or- 
der  to  bring  in  the  baggage  left  with  the  frozen  lads,  and 
to  see  if  they  were  yet  able  to  come  on.  This  detach, 
ment  l^ft  me  with  four  men  only ;  two  of  which  had  their 
feet  frozen :  they  were  empbyed  in  finishing  the  stoct 
ade,  and  myself  to  support  them  by  the  chase. 

8tb  February,  Sz/n<%.— -Refreshing  my  memory  as  to 
the  French  grammar,  and  overseeing  the  works. 

9/A  February,  Monday, — Hunting,  &c, 

lOth  February,  Tuesday, — Read  and  labored  at  our 
works. 

1 1th  February,  Wednesday, — Hunting.     Killed  three 
deer. 

I2tb  February,  Thursday, — Studying. 

I3th    February,    Friday. — ^Hunting.       Killed    two  I 
deer. 

14iih  February,  Saturday, — Crossed  the  river  and  ex- 
amined  the  numerous  springs,  which  issued  froip.  the  foot! 
of  the  hill,  opposite  to  our  camp,  which  were  so  strongly! 
impregnated  with  mineral  qualities,  as  not  only  to  keep 
clear  of  ice  previous  to  their  joining  the  main  branch,  but! 
to  keep  open  the  west  fork  until  its  junction  with  the  mainl 
river,  and  for  a  few  miles  afterwards,  whilst  all  the  otherj 
branches  in  the  neighbourhood  were  bound  in  the  ada-j 
m^tine  chains  of  winter. 

15th  February,    Sunday, — Reading,   &e.      Work 
going  on. 

IQth  February,  Monday, — I  took  one  man  and  wenj 
out  hunting,  about  six  miles  from  the  post,  shot 


«r^ 

<Qde; 

to  re 

theifj 

^tas 

inafiE 

oblige 

abiy  to 

cautionj 

»^ehad 

when  J 

wilk  to^ 

!  n»y  riQe  | 

[manner; 

Jandfiiend 


i ', .  ■■  "  f 


TO  THE  SOURCES  OF  THE  ARKANSAW,  &c.     197 


COO* 


itipi]0iiled  |i  cl^er.      Iimnediately  afterwards,  discovered 
two  horsemen  rising  the  suminit  of  ^  hiU^  about  bdf  a  mile 
to  our  rigbt.    As  my  orders  were  to  avoid  griwig  alarm 
er^eiKe  to,  the  ^piuiish  goviemmcnt  of  New  Mexico*  I 
<ade»voured  tc  m^oid  tbusk  at  first,  but  when  we  attempted 
to  retreat,  ^ley  persued  us  at  Ml  chai|^,  flourishing 
thdr  lanoes,  and  when  w^  advanced,  they  would  retire  as 
^t  as  ihek  horses  coukjL  carry  them  i  seeing  diis  we  got 
in  a  small  ravine,  in  hopes  to  decoy  them  near  enough  to 
oblige  them  to  come  to  a  parley,  which  happened  agree- 
ably to  our  desires,  as  they  came  on  hunting  us  with  great 
caution;  we  suffered  them  to  get  within  40  yards,  where 
we  had  allured  them,  but  were  about  running  off  again, 
when  I  ordered  the  soldier  to  lay  down  his  surms  and 
walk  towards  them ;  at  the  same  time  standing  ready  with 
my  rifle  to  killdther,  who  should  lift  an  arm  in  an  hostile 
manner;  I  then  hollowed  to  them,  that  we  were  Americans, 
and  friends,  which  were  almost  the  only  two  words  I  knew 
in  the  Spanish  Iangu£ige ;  when  with  great  signs  of  fear 
they  cams  up,  and  proved  to  be  a  Spanish  dragoon  and  a 
dvilized  Indian,  armed  after  their  manner,  of  which  we 
;ee  a  description  in  the  Essai  Militaire.     We  were  jealous 
if  our  arms  on  both  sides,  and  acted  with  great  precau- 
ion.    They  informed  me  that  was  the  fourth  day  since 
ey  had  left  Santa  Fe ;  that  Robinson  had  arrived  there, 
d  was  received  with  great  kindness  by  the  governor. 
I  knew  them  to  be  spies,  I  thought  proper  to  inform 
ail  the  othecBiem  merely,  that  I  was  about  to  descend  the  river  to 
the  adaf  atchitoches.     We  sat  here  on  the  ground  a  long  time, 
id  finding  they  were  determined  not  to  leave  me,  we 
Vrorl!i9|)8e  and  bid  them  adieu,  but  they  demanded  where  our 
p  was ;  and  finding  they  were  not  about  to  leave  us, 
an  and  \?enlhought  it  most  proper  to  lake  them  with  jne,  thinking 


Isbips 
imuch 

orponl 
»,  ift  or- 
ids,and 
d^ach* 
aadthar 
tie  stoct 

noryast* 


>red  at  QW 
iCiUed  three 


Killed 


tvioi 


iver  and  ex- 
FroiP.  the  fool 

[e  so  strongly 
only  to  kee? 
branch,  b\A| 

;ith  the  msuni 


id  in 


&c. 


'lii! 


[post, 


shot  m 


198 


JOURNAL  OP  A  VOYAGE 


I  /- 


We  were  on  Red  river,  and  of  course  in  the  teTritiiry 
claimed  \^  the  Uinted  States. 

We  took  the  road  to  my  fort,  and  as  they  were  on 
horseback,  they  travelled  rather  faster  than  myself;  they 
w^e  halted  by  the  sentinel,  and  immediately  red:«ated 
much  surprised.  When  I  came  up,  I  took  them  in,  and 
then  explained  to  them,  as  well  as  possible,  my  mtentions 
of  descending  the  river  to  Natchitoches,  but  ait  the  same 
time  told  them  that  if  governor  Allencaster  would  send  cot 
an  officer  with  an  interpreter,  who  spoke  French  or  Eng. 
lishy  I  would  do  myself  the  pleasure  to  give  his  excellency 
every  reasonable  satisfaction  as  to  my  intentions  in  com. 
ing  on  his  frontiers.  They  informed  me  that  on  the  se- 
cond day  they  would  be  in  Santa  Fe,  but  were  careful  ne* 
yer  to  suggest  an  idea  of  my  being  on  the  Rio  del  Norte. 
As  they  concluded,  I  did  not  think  as  I  spoke ;  they  were 
very  anxious  to  ascertain  our  numbers,  &c. ;  seeing  only 
five  men  here,  they  could  not  believe  we  came  without  j 
horses,  &c.  To  this  I  did  not  think  proper  to  give  then 
any  satisfaction,  giving  them  to  understand  we  were  in  | 
many  parties,  &c. 

17/A  February,  Tuesday.-^n  the  morning,,  our  twl 
Spanish  visitors  departed,  after  I  had  made  them  somel 
trifling  presents,  with  which  they  seemed  highly  delightedl 
After  their  departure,  we  commenced  working  at  our  littlej 
work,  as  I  thought  it  probable  the  governor  might  dispuu 
my  right  to  descend  the  Red  river^  and  send  out  Inii 
or  some  light  party  to  attack  us ;  I  therefore  determine 
to  be  as  much  prepared  to  receive  them  as  possibl'^;.  Th 
evening  the  corporal  and  three  of  the  men  arrived,  whjie  one  we  I 
had  been  sent  back  to  the  camp  of  the  frozen  lads.   Theli5;>^  ^-^  . 
informed  meithat  two  men  would  arrive  the  next  day ;  ^Anmand  oi 
of  which  was  Menaugh,  who  had  been  left  alone  on  ^mountain] 
27th  January,  but  that  the  other  two,  Dougherty  ai|itnoiv„  j. 


TO  THE  SOURCES  OP  THE  AB, 
Wed  them  ^-jh  tea,  of  ■folT'^]*!'*''''  *«*ey  ferf 

«»«l"«so  uag«iert,uI^^^'«y<;ouid  suspect  me  of 

Aeu-n«,ve  homes,  and  Sf      .°'^'°^  *><"*  seeiiJ 
P^  cou„.^i,,fl,r  "^Sf^^vediathebo^,™  o7! 

I        •'"US   those   nnn..   I  j 

"^fir  «  *--~c^^of  m"^?"**  ^"*.  made 
of .heu- course,  doomed T^T^  ^  »  4ep^" 

k™^  and  „,„, ,  fo,  „^  *:  "«»'nder  of  their  H 
°»»o  buy  a  manlusvic^;,'^,*'' pension?  "ot  suffi! 

H ;  m  the  erenin  I  om^STj**  °*«-  ««»  boys  a., 
hrq«re  tomarch  Uor^ ft rKf"' »»d o„/„^ 
b      ^°*»*°P>«er, h^5l  **  ^^fc-^aw,  where      ' 

H  on  h,s  retu™  ,o%ri^X2,t;.    r ''"«*''»  "^ 
p«  mountains.  ^  *"*' "ho  *ere  sti«  i^ 

'9'*    February     7-A.     j 
Je*.  mashed  „i.(^„f^;;f ''^r^^lKeant  Wil«am  E. 
*..and  1  took  three  o^lt  "^  *^  ^""'^O'* 
K^hstaace.  i„  onJer  to  polrout  ^^'""'^y  ^  °« 
domain,  which  I conceiv^" 'r  I    K^*"  »  P^  h>  the 
h"e  we  had  come.    I  musTr '' ^"' ''<"• '""^  Aaa 
K  discipline  and  e^mrte  in^'^T''  **  ^^ctof 
>"»and  of  more  than  ,^1-^         '°''"^  "''"dting  a 
[mountains  covered  „K^'  T.'*"  «'«««4 

a  nation,  with  whpm 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE 
'*"'  j_Mndintf  3  and  to  peifntfi 

tet  me  a*  v,tat  «ouU  °»^^^pped?  ^et  *«. 

bring  »"'*:*?i,*'t*^-^-"  !!rje^ 

„oi  volunteered  «,  ««"  «»«.  honored  iiwel«» 

X^h  they  thought  t*«™*r.^^  out  «he  p». 
compmied  them  about .»«  "^' '"j^,  ,he  coqK.nL.. 

!Lr.«l  that  the  ^"^-^IZ^,^  r«^^^ 
Lpas8able,:lis»ingbeen-«biwday»  .^    ^,,„,^^,.^ 


deep. 


T!wineWUed»d«er,»cBf« 
^  We  then  separated  and  havMg  M      ^^  ^^^  , 

kepton  my  e^pto"^ ^^^  i„^iog  to  «tom'.p^*' , 
«  some  kagues  fr^  "',^^Ld  on  a  small  creek  whid 
,trine,o'clockatmgte,enc^P«"         ^^,,ou«e. 
e„,pried  into  the  ""^^^^^emarched  do»ntben«. 

fcafewho«,«,bat«^nofr^'^^„P^„teh 
«*er  object  to  »«7  ff^^^.f  h„„«.  »d  men  on  * 
AefortV  discovered  tteis^^^^^elU         " 

21rt  rtbruar/,  «"« ~^^   ^^^  j^  harboring  ro. 
possibly  some  party  of  •»«^  ™f  «  b      ^^^^   . 
!gave^rdcularorde«»^r^.rf^J„,  but  if^H 

^ple  .o  ^O^;"'    "..^ff^Aemselves  to  be  ^ 
„ever  to  run,  "-d  nf^  °  ^»^„^  ^^.^ver  part,  i>^ 
„  taken  prisoners  but  cona  ^^^_^,^  .„.    , 

«l.hem,  if  they  could  not  escape  w  ^^  ^^  .^ 


on[n 


m 


TO  TH£  SOURCES  OF  THE  ARKANSAW.&c.     301. 

studying,  reading  &c.    Working  at  our  ditch  to  bring  the 
river  round  the  works. 

23d  February f  Monday^-^Keaudiing^  writing  &e.  the 
men  at  their  usu?!  work,  &c> 

24th  February^  Tuesday,'~^To6k,  one  man,  with  me 
and  went  out  on  the  Spanish  road  hunting;  killed  one^ 
deer  and  wounded  several  others)  and  as  we  were  a  great 
distance  from  the  fort,  we  encamped  near  the  road  all  night* 
Saw  several  signs  of  horses.      > 

2Stb  February,  Wednesday.^r^KHled  two  more  dee« 
when  we  marched  for  our  post.    Took  all  three  of  the 
deer  with  us,  and  arrived  about  9  o'clock  at  night,  as  much 
fiitigued  &c.  as  ever  I  was  in  my  life.    Our  arrival  dissi- 
pated the  anxiety  of  the  men,  who  b^an  to  be  appreheik?> 
I  sive  we  were  taken  or  killed  by  some  of  th^s  savages*  ,  ;i  ' 
26tb  February,  Tbursehy^-^^hi.lke  mowm^  was^i^ 
jprized  by  the  report  of  a  gun,  from  my  lookout  guand  ;* 
of  the  approach  of  strangers.    ImmiSdiately  jaiter  ^o 
Frenchmen  arrived.  -  ,      ^ 

My  sentinel  halted  them  and  ordered  them  to  be,  ad- 
lutted  after  some  questions ;  they  informed  me  that  his 
iccellency  governor  Allencaster  had  heard  it  was  thein- 
ntion  of  the  Utah  Indians^,  to  attack  me ;  had  4etache4, 
officer  with  50  dragoons  to  come  out  and  protect  me, 
I  that  they  would  be  here  in  two  days.    To  this  I  mad^e 
reply ;  but  shortly  after  the  party  came  in  sight  to  the 
ir  of,  I  afterwards  learnt  50  dragoons  and   50 
ited  militia  of  the  province,  armed  in  the  same  man- 
viz  :  Lances,  escopates  and  pistols.     My  sentinel 
pted  them  at  the  distance  of  about  50  yards.     I  had  the 
pks  manned.     I  thought  it  most  proper  to  send  out  the 
Frenchmen  to  inform  the  commanding  officer  that  it 
,  «a(W'  ^y  ^^^^st  he  should  leave  his  party  in  a  small  copse 
the  y^       jipoods  where  he  halted,  and  tliat  I  would  meet  him  my- 

c  c 


or 


of  a 


8Q» 


J0UB1«A1..  Q^  A  \  OYAGE 


r  a 


lelf  in  the  prairie,  in  whidi  our  vork  was  situated,  TJUs  I 
did,  with  my  sword  on  me  only.  When  I  w^  introduced 
-  to  Don  Ignatio  Saltelq  and  Don  Barthalemew  Fetmandez, 
two  lieutenants,  the  former  the  commandant  of  the  party. 
J  gave  them  an  invitation  to  enter  the  works,  but  requested 
the  troopg'  might  remain  where  they  w«re ;  this  waa  cQm< 
plied  with,  but  when  tfaey  came  round  and  discoveired  that 
^0  eater,  they  were  obliged  to  crawl  on  their  bellies  over  a 
small  draw-bridge,  they  appeared  astonished  but  entered 
without  further  hesitation. 

We  first  break£uted  on  some  deer,  meal,  goose  and 
some  biscuit  (which  the  civilized  indian  who  came  out  as 
a  spy)  ^ad  brought  me.  After  breakfast  the  commanding 
offider  s|4dressed  me  as  follows :  *^  Sir,  the  governor  of 
''  New  Mexico,  being  in£anned  you  had  missed  your  route, 
^jnrdered  me  to;  rfferyou,  in  his  name,  mules,  horses,. 
^  knoney^  or  whatever  you  may  stand  in  need  of  to  cooJ 
<^  4uct  you  to  the  head  of  Red  river ;  as  fi'om  Santa  Fe  i»| 
*'  where  it  is  sometimes  navigable,  is  e^ht  days  joumen 
<<  and  we  have  guides  and  the  routes  of  the  traders 
<'  conduct  us.'*  '*  What,  said  I,  (interrupting  him)  is  notl 
**  diis  the  Red  river,"  «f  No  sir !  the  Rio  del  Norte."  l| 
immediately  ordered  my  flag  to  be  taken  down  and  I'oL^^ 
up,  feeling  how  sensibly  I  had  committed  myself,  in  enterl      ^  ^^^ 


vheir 


My 


ing  thi^  territory,  ^d  was  conscious  that  they  must  hai 
positive  orders  to  take  me  in. 

*'  He  now"  added  "  that  he  had  provided  one  hi 
"  dred  mules  and  horses^  to  take  in  my  party  and  bag] 
**  and  how  anxious  his  excellency  was  to  see  me  at  S^_ 
*'  Fe."    I  stated  to  him,  the  absence  of  my  sergeant,  d»        y  ^^ 
situation  of  the  balance  of  the  party  and  that  my  ord«» ,     J^  ^"®i 
would  not  justify  my  entering  into  the  Spanish  territory.  M  "®  I 

urged  still!  further  until  I  began  to  feel  myself  a  little  heati ,    *  ^"^i 
ifi  the  argument  and  told  him  ia  a  peremptory  stylej        ^"*s 


ro  THE  SOUnCES  OF  THE  ARKANSAW,  8cc.  30S 


Dusl 
)duced 
i^iidezt 
p  party. 
>quested 

aa  com* 
^edt)i>>3ft 
eft  over  a 
t  entered 


78< 


would  not  go  until  the  airi^al  of  my  sergeant  with  ttie  ba- 
lance of  the  party.  He  replied  that  there  was  not  the  least  re- 
straint to  be  used,  only  that  it  was  necessary  his  excellency 
should  receive  an  explanation  of  my  business  on  his  froii- 
der,  but  that  I  .ould  go  now,  or  on  the  arrival  of  my 
party ;  but  that  it  none  went  in  at  present  he  should  be 
obliged  to  send  in  for  provisions,  but  that  if  I  would  now 
march,  he  would  leave  an  Indian  mterpreter  and  an  esw 
cort  of  diagdons  to  conduct  the  sergeant  into  Santa  Fe. 
His  mildness  induced  me  to  tell  him  that  I  would  march, 
but  must  leave  two  men,  in  order  to  meet  the  sergeant 
and  party,  to  instruct  him  as  to  coming  in,  as  he  never 
would  come  without  a  fight,  if  not  ordered. 

I  was  induced  to  consent  to  the  measure,  by  convic- 
tion, that  the  officer  had  positive  orders  to  bring  me  in, 
and  as  I  had  no  orders  to  commit  hostilities,  and  indeed 
had  committed  myself,  although  innocently,  by  violating 
their  territory,  I  conceived  it  would  appear  better  to  shew 
a  will  to  come  to  an  explanation  than  to  be  any  way  con- 
strained ;  yet  my  situation  was  so  eligible,  and  I  could  so 
easily  have  put  them  at  defiance,  that  it  was  with  great  re- 
luctance I  suffered  all  our  labor  to  be  lost  without  once 
trying  the  efficacy  of  it. 

My  compliance  seemed  to  spread  general  joy  through 
ey  must  u*^their  party  as  soon  as  it  was  communicated,  but  it  appear- 
to  be  different  with  my  men,  who  wished  to  have  a  Ut- 
ile dust  (as  they  expressed  themselves)  and  were  likewise 
learfiil  of  treachery. 

My  determination  being  once  taken,  I  gave  permis- 
m  for  the  Spanish  lieutenant's  men  to  come  to  the  out- 
at  my  o^°Jide  of  the  works,  and  some  of  mine  to  go  out  and  see 
sh  territory*  Wem ;  when  the  hospitality  and  goodness  of  the  Creoles 
\i  a  Uttle  heamd  Metifs  began  to  manifest  itself  by  their  producing 
ttnptory  m 


iidedonebi 
tyaxxdbag! 


jee  me 


atSa 


sergeant, 


^t  n 


*"  '°^r^^,  U  to  mt  men,  covering  tta» 

.k-rofwWon  and  gwmg  «  »  »J 

^  SSr  blankeB,  &c.  ^  ^  tovin, 


1     I 


i» 


PIKERS  EXPEDITION. 


PART  III. 


DIARY  OF  A  TOUR,  MADE  THROUGH  THE  INTERIOR 
V'^OVINCES  OF  NEW  SPAIN,  IN  THE  YEAR  1807, 
SY  CAPTAIN  Z.  M.  PIKE,  OF  THE  ARMY  OF  TIIB 
UNITED  STATES,  WHEN  UNDER  AN  ESCORT  OV 
SPANISH   DRAGOONS. 


^Vb  February^  Friday* — In  the  morning  I  dis- 
[covered  the  Spanish  lieutenant,  was  writing  letters  ad- 
I  dressed  to  the  governor  and  others ;  on  which  I  demanded 
[if  he  was  not  going  on  with  me  to  Santa  Fe.  He  appeared 
jconfused  and  said  no :  that  his  orders  were  so  positive  as 
|to  the  safe  conduct  and  protection  of  my  men,  that  he  dare 
Dot  go  and  leave  any  behind  ;  that  his  companion  would 
ccompany  me  to  Santa  Fe  with  50  men,  whilst  he  with 
he  others  would  wait  for  the  sergeant  and  his  party.  I 
eplied  that  he  had  deceived  me  and  had  not  acted  with 
idor ;  but  that  it  was  now  too  late  for  me  to  remedy  the 
«1. 

We  marched  about  1 1  o'clock,  ascending  the  Rio  del 
forte,  five  miles  more  S.  60°  W.  when  we  went  round 
brough  a  chain  of  hills  and  bore  off  to  the  south.  We 
roceeded  on  nine  miles  further,  when  we  crossed  the 


90d 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE 


!     '1 


main  branch  of  that  stream,  which  was  now  bearing  near- 
ly west  towards  the  main  chain  of  the  third  chain  of  moun- 
tains. We  encamped  on  the  opposite  side.  Distance  15 
miles.  Intensely  cold,  obliged  to  stop  frequently  and  make 
fires.    Snow  deep. 

28th  February,  Saturday* — Vl'i  marched  late.      One 
of  the  Frenchmen  informed  me,  that  the  expedition  which 
had  been  at  the  Pawnees,  had  descended  the  Red  river  233 
leagues  and  from  thence  crossed  to  the  Pawnees  expressly 
in  search  of  my  party  (this  was  afterwards  confirmed  by  the 
gentleman  who  conmianded  the  troops.)    He  then  ex< 
pressed  great  regret  at  my  misfortunes,  as  he  termed  them 
in  being  taken,  and  offered  his  services  in  secreting  pa. 
pers  &c.    I  took  him  at  his  word,  and  for  my  amusement 
I  thought  I  would  try  him  akid  give  him,  a  leaf  or  two  of 
my  journal   (copied)  which  mentioned  the  time  of  mj 
sailing  from  Belle  Fontaine,  and  our  force.  This  1  charged 
htm  to  guard  very  carefully  and  give  to  me  after  the  inves> 
ligation  of  my  papers  at  Santa  Fe.     This  day  we  saw  i 
herd  of  w^ld  horses.    The  Spaniards  pursued  them  ad 
caught  two  colts,  one  of  which  the  Indians  killed  and  eat;, 
the  odier  was  let  go.  We  pursued  our  journey  over  60ok{ 
hills,  where  the  snow  was  very  dtep,  and  encamped  at 
on  the  top  of  a  pretty  high  hill,  aniong  some  pines, 
tance  36  miles.      We  left  the  river  which  in  general 
about  6, 8,  and  10  miles  to  the  left  or  east  of  us. 
great  sign  of  elk. 

1*/  March,  Sunday, — ^We  marched  early  and  althouj 
we  rode  very  hard  we  only  got  to  the  village  of  L'l 
Chaud  or  Warm  Spring,  sometime  in  the  afternoon,  wl 
was  about  45  miles.    The  difference  of  climslte 
astonishing,  after  we  left  the  hills  and  deep  snows 
found  ourselves  on  plams  where  there  was  no  snow, 
where  vegetation  was  sprouting. 


2dA 

verai  Ut 

'^h  had 

onstructi, 

^e  sava 


c 


•  See  dcMct 


III. 


P-,16. 


bearing  near- 

hainofmoun- 

Distance  15 

ntly  and  make 

id  late.  One 
pedition  v^hich 
Red  river  233 
nees  expressly 
nfirmed  by  the 
He  then  ex. 
le  termed  them 
1  secreting  pa. 
my  amusement 
I  leaf  or  two  of 
le  time  of  my 
This  1  charged 
after  the  inves. 
day  we  -saw  i 
ued  them  and 
!  killed  and  eat; 
imey  over  66m\ 
3icamped  at 
ne  pines. 
1  in  general 
ist  of  us.    Si 


C»  thaV  h,«4„x  J  *?^  W.™  Spring,       . 

m  we  country.  "  /^*«.  previous  to  nnr 

iiiaiae  of  the  enclosure/ 

were  narrow,  the  ^nT       '  ^^  ^^  one  storv  •  *!,    j 

. '   .'^  ■ '^e -We  had  a  dance  ^h:  u  .  '^^^^^i* 
^.J  there  was  one  wl^h  was  ^    '!  ^^^  *^  ^-^^^o 
«d  «  BOW  danced  in  .u  ^     *^°P'^^  ^om  the  m    .    "^  * 

Th,».vi%e  „,y  c^J* '^"^"^  Madrid..        ^ 

IWimcoDDPi.  «« J  -^y"  appeared  frt  u    •     *"***"ent 

21/  Marc/,  mJS  "^^^-^Paivards.  ^'^^  *' ««« 

Pstruction,  to  defend  the  inh  u-  ^"^^^  shape  and 

K^e  savages      t        '  .     "*^^^^fants  from  fh«  •   '  ^  .^'^^ 

'     ^JwripiOTj-aj-  °™"s  of  several 

'  ^''  '"  'Appendix  eo 


I: 


I't*. 


y    II 


ti 


300 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE 


)T 


>• 


f      *  ' 


« 


«( 


M 


old  villages,  which  had  been  taken  an^  destroyed  %y  the 
Tetaus.  We  were  frequently  stopped  by  the  women,  who 
invited  us  into  thdbr  houses  to  eat;  and  hi  every  place 
where  we  halted  a  moment,  there  Was  a  contest  who 
should  be  our  hosts.  My  poor  lads  who  had  been  frozen, 
were  conducted  home  by  old  men,  who  would  cause  then* 
daughters  to  dress  their  feet ;  provide  their  victuals  and 
drink,  and  at  night,  gave  them  the  best  bed  in  the  house. 
In  short,  all  their  conduct  brought  to  my  recollection  die 
hospitality  of  the  ancient  patriarchs,  and  caused  me  to  sigh 
with  regret  at  the  corrupdon  of  that  noble  principle,  by 
the  polish  of  modem  ages. 

We  descended  the  creek  of  Aqua  Caliente,  about 
12  miles,  where  it  joined  the  river  of  Gonejos  from  die 
west.  This  river  was  about  SO  yards  wide,  and  was  set> 
tied,  above  its  juncdon  with  the  Aqua  Caliente,  12  miles, 
as  the  latter  was  its  whole  course  from  the  village  of  that 
name.  From  where  they  form  a  juncdon,  it  was  aboiit  15 
miles  to  the  Rio  del  Norte,  on  the  eastern  branch  of 
which  was  situated  the  village  of  St.  John's,- which  \ni 
the  residence  of  the  president  pricist.of  the  province^  who 
had  resided  in  it  40  years.  i 

The  house  tops  of  the  village  of  St.  John's,  were  Bshment 
crowded,  as  well  as  the  streets,  when  we  entered,  and  t\ 
the  door  of  the  public  quarters,  we  were  met  by  th^  pre^ 
sident  priest.     When  my  companion  who  commanded] 
the  escort,  received  him  in  a  street  and  ienibraced  him,  all| 
the  poor  creatures  who  stood  round,  strove  to  kiss  the 
ring  or  hand  of  the  holy  hiher ;  for  myself,  I  saluted  hiii 
in  the  usual  style.     My  men  were  crnducted  into  thej 
quarters,  and  I  went  to  the  house  of  the  priest,  where 
were  treated  with  politeness  :  he  offered  us  coiFee,  choco 
late,  or  whatever  we  thought  proper,  and  desired,  me 
consider  myself  p*^  home  in  his  house. 


£i 


c 

S( 

m 


sj> 

dUFert 

counti 

the  rot 

mgbec 

somecc 

myhavii 

*oinniui] 

rather  in 
and  ^tc 
to  be  an 
some  pet 


As  I  was  gomg  „„j  ^ 

my  ii.en,Iwa»  addressed  atXrf,.      *M<artera  of 
Euglsh .-«  My  foeadrMi^  *L^<""-  ^-y  »  «aa  m  broken 

turn:  I  haveb^ena  nri««n     r    ^      ^  ^^  never  re- 
"  cannot  get  out"  I  rS^,t?";'^  *"*  ^««.  -^ 
«  ^oner,  it  m^  be  for  »!    'w  "!^  '^  "^  ^  P"" 
"•nyelf,  I  felt  „o  apjXZ^  '  J""  ^'^'^P^to 
"  speak  French,  as  I St^n?     ''  "^"^^  ««  «» 
« fish."    When  iT  1,  ™''"J'  "wderatand  his  En., 

vvnen  he  began  to  demani  „f  *" 

•WFerent  questions  on  L  mnH.  T  ""*  ~  ""ny 

«"ntry,  ^y  ^.^n^-^^"  ™  ™^''  of  my  getting  into  the 

Ae  room  of  my  men  1 1  '  ^  ''''  **  """e  '  anived  in 
»«  been  o^ie^i'^^rp^^^y  »«««ed  "^  ^t^. 

«.me  confession  or  acknowlS^t  of  ''''°'"  *°  °'"^ 
>»yhavmgappea:edon  the  frantiT '1™"''"  "''^S-s  in 
tonmunicaoons  which  mi<rht  flT'       """^  confidential 

■^-insolent  in  his  «3t7!rr-^''"''""^ 
»»d  &ten  the  door;  I  th^ol/?^  "^ «™  '«  *ut 
.0  be  an  emi««^  ^^^  rL^r^.  *!'  ^  "^^ed  him 
»meper«,n.  to  endeavours  bXl^,^"  r*™°''  »' 
fccnption  we«  «co„nd.^°rd^^^^'f "  !^'  "^ 
r^''  »Mst  r  possessed  ,r^  ""'"  «*"I»pun. 

Mediately  orfeig^?^'  f  .*- .'o  chastise™. 

'•-  «  fhe  same  tiieX™  heTrSi  'T"  ""'^-W 
•^-stance,  I  would  be  ohBoL^-?''  "'^  "^^  Ae 


■  '  I 


0  commaiiuo.™-"  iraistance,  I  would  be  ohLV^  .  .  '  '^  "™e  the 
traced  him.i|re.  which  I  had  in  my  h^  fr^j^T?^  "^  of  *esa. 
,e  to  kiss  to  fanned,  that  he  beggi^  m^  for  gJ^^''  *«  *»»  «>  much 
:  ,  .,..«edhiJ«.;  that  he  had  tn  ZdZ^t.,"^  "°'  *°  »j'»^ 


,e  to  K155  .»  ~-.cu,  mat  He  begged  me  for  r^'  7  *'  ^  ""« 
;  I  saluted  hi*  m;  that  he  had  tn  ZlZ^t  .^^  "°'  *°  "J"'^ 
Kted  into  ihi  «tme.  and  endeavour  to  ti^ce  I.  .*°'''™"»'  «» 
riest,  where  «  »,  and  what  were  mv  desi<n^  I  '  ^^''  "'"'  "-ho  I 
s  coffee,  choc,  .ce  a  confidence  in  him,  bv^l  1  T^"^""-^  ^  pnj- 
1  desired  me  i  amards.  and  complaining  of  thl ,  ^"'^"""S  "gainst  the 

^•^  towards  Wm.    i^Ltif  r„7  *'"''=''  ^^^  '""^ 

■fttter  this  confession.  I  ordered 


; 


I.  1 


,1" 

f'i  1 


4. 


k: 


i 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYACE 

him  as  too  contemptible  tor  ^^^   ^pi„y^ 

^ght  tell  the  iO^'^Zeoi  "or.  abilities  and  sen^. 
emissaries,  to  ''>«'*!.*f'^%^ceUency  ^ouW  S"**' 
attl  that  I  questioned  ^  his  ex  , 

afting  of  us  an  easy  task.  y^^  j^ad  come 

This  man's  name  was  Baptiste  i^       .  ^ 

from  the  Illinois  to  the  Pawnees,  to  t«<Uva*g^  ^^  ^^ 

Ihedhimby  >^f "^^"^^Me^icr^th  the  goods, 
Illinois,  and  from  thence  t° J^^        himself,  and  «» 

«hich  he  had  procured  ^^^^  ,  ^^^    He  re- 
thesamemanonwhomRobmsonnaa  ^^j^, 

Led  into  theprie..hou.e-*™^«^„^^^^^ 

i^  any  complamt,  he  m  reply  Lo„isuma,l 

^,  &c.  informed  them,  that  wto  n  ^^^  ^^ 

^'  g-«or  of  the  Uhno.  .  Jh^J^  ^^,  ^^ 
for  granted  from  my  having  ^^^  y^,^ 

Ae'post  of  Kaslusto.  *«,f;\™t^''|„ce  .he  peace. 
States  had  ^^'''''l^hei'"  **   „  add  to  the  respect  vj* 


Z^m  established  '"  *- " .X^P- v^lSassoc 
however  the  reEPrt  served  but  to^^\^^^^_    HavingW|«ne 


btaies   I**"- ,  ,       .     add  to  me  rcap^v.  ".-— „cai  assoc 

however  the  report  served  b»«  '°^^»^^^  ^^     Having  wi^e  i„  hi, 
wWch  my  comp^on  «™  "-      ^      j,^.  ^i,h  the  he«|d,er  unde 

at  this  place  the  ^J-^^^^r^  j^^oderate  use  of  tbf  „,  ^ 
of  the  house,  at^d  perhaps  rw.  ^j  ^^_  .. 

refreshments  allowed  »«;  P^~  ,h  alarmed  mecoJ^ 

thing  lite  the  cholera  r^!.'^?„r,o  be  more  abstemioJ 
siderably.and  mademede~»  ^,     J 

'"^"""h   had^ir-"   tion's  "f  flowers,  plants,^ 
florist :  he  had  Urge  c  ^^^^  ^^^^^  ^ 

^a  several  -J^s  -j>  ^o""  ^  ,.^  „„,3  i„  .he  d 
bottoms  of  "'"''' 77  "    ^,her  a  natural  turn  forb      „„^„^ 


J,^_ 


upou 
at  ^c 
plowed 
sense, 

ad  come 
)ods  ^r. 
^  of  the 
^e  goods, 
:^  and  vfas 
tte  te. 
jadofmak. 

jtneVvetooli 
,r  some  time 

t  the  Vx^i^ 
the  peace? 
respect  vnth 


Having 
1  with  the 


U] 


Irate  use  of  tit 
tack  of  som*| 
■med  me  coi 
>re  absteiiuoi 
.list,  or  ratl^' 
Its,  Plants, 
:he  tnargm 
the  V 
for 


kea  in 
ral  turn 


THROUGH  THE  INTERIOR  PROVINCI  i,  8cc.     311 

^ve  me  nearly  for  two  hours  on  those  subjects,  but  by 
the  exercise  of  a  small  degree  of  patience,  I  entirely  ac- 
quired the  esteem  of  this  worthy  father,  he  calling  me  his 
son,  and  lamenting  extremely  that  my  fate  had  not  made 
me  one  of  the  holy  catholic  church.*' 

St.  John's  was  enclosed  with  a  mud  wall,  and  pro- 
bably contained  1000  souls ;  its  population  consisted  prin- 
cipally of  civilized  Indians,  as  indeed  does  all  the  village 
of  New  Mexico,  the  whites  not  forming  the  one  twentieth 
part  of  the  inhabitants. 

3d  March,  Tuesday. — ^We  marched  after  breakfiist, 
B.  Lalande  accompanying  us,  and  in  about  six  miles  came 
to  a  village,  where  I  suppose  there  were  more  than  2000  > 
souls.  Here  we  halted  at  the  house  of  the  priest,  who 
understanding  that  I  would  not  kiss  his  hand,  would  not 
present  it  to  me.  "^ 

The  conduct  and  behaviour  of  a  young  priest  who 
came  in,  was  such  as  in  our  country  would  have  been  am- 
ply sufficient  forever  to  have  banished  him  from  the  cle- 
rical association,  strutting  about  with  a  dirk  in  his  boot,  a 
cane  in  his  hand,  whispering  to  one  girl,  chucking  ano- 
ther under  the  chin,  and  going  out  with  a  third.  Sec, 
'torn  this  village  to  another  small  village  of  500  inhabi- 
ts, is  seven  miles.  At  each  of  those  villages  is  a  small 
tream,  sufficient  for  the  purpose  of  watering  their  fields, 
t  the  father's  house  we  took  coflFee.  From  this  village, 
was  17  miles  to  another  of  400  civilized  Indians.  Here 
e  changed  horses  and  prepared  for  entering  the  capital, 
hich  we  came  in  sight  of  in  the  evening.  It  is  situated 
Qg  the  banks  of  a  small  creek,  which  comes  down  from 
le  mountains,  and  runs  west-to  the  Rio  del  Norte,    The 


5;      U 


I    V  head  tn^Wgth  of  the  capital  on  the  creek  may  be  estimated  at  onis 
the  CastiUa'ttfce ;  it  is  but  three  streets  in  width. 

he  continue    |  •  See  Appendix  to  Pan  m.  [No.  7-]  page  69. 


■m 

ml 


313 


t  If 


liu 


ioUUNAL  OK  A  VOYAGE  _ 

Ae»me effect as.fl^^*«^^„^,  desce,«Bng the 

^  seen  in  «»^fP""«  "^o  Aurches,  the  magmficenoe 
Ohio  river.    The"  »"'^«°   contrast  to  the  nuserable 

of  ,hose  sueple,  form  »  ««^^^  dde  of  the^^ 
,^earance  of  the  hf»»«^.'°^  equal  to  120  or  l-W  « 
^«iu«e  of  sold.«»  hou^  !J  j„  ^e  centre  of  4. 

^ .  on  the  ""-^^^^Tt,  ^th  the  quarters  fa- 
the  term  it)  or  gov«Mnent  nou   ,  .^  occopiedbj 

^'  ^-  .^lfl£    ll  g^eralthehouse. ba« 

.  shed  before  the  front,  some  ^         ^. 

brick;  *econse^e»-j^.%« supposed pop«>a«»j. 
row. say  in  general  25  fert-  ^^e  crowds. 

4^  souls.    0»;"rrJ«n«nent  house.    Whe. 

leat,  and  foUowed  us  to  the£  ^^^^  ^  ,^ 

^Lnoun«=d,  we  "«*.  "^covered  with  ski»cl 
T  .ho  floors  of  which  were  cov"  j^^  i 

rooms,  the  nooj»  annnal.    wew*  i 

bufialo.  bear,  or  some  ofter^  ,^  ,ppeaM 

s^Se,rdS^«--^'-^n 

'""^T^n^.    Boyouspe*^""*^ 

''*'•    '^'' ?ou  come  to  r^onncitre  our  couna, 

*°'°".l      1  marched  to  reconnoitre  cfuro^iu 
Pit,.    I «»r^i^  character  are  you? 
?X""C.my;ropercharacter,anofficerof.heV. 

,ed  St^- ' '«»' '  A„i  *is  Robinson,  is  he  attached 

vow  party' 
'      fike-    Ho. 


THROUGH  THE  INTERIOR  PROVIlJCES,  kc.     2 IS. 

Qowrmr.    Do  you  know  him  ? 

Pike*  Tes,  he  is  from  St.  Louis.  [I  had  under* 
3tood  the  doctor  was  sent  45  leagues  from  Santa  Fe,  un* 
der  a  strong  guard,  and  the  haughty  and  unfriendly  recep» 
tion  oi  the  governor  induced  me  to  believe  war  must  have 
been  declared,  and  that  if  it  was  known  Dr.  Robinson 
accompanied  rae,  he  would  be  treated  with  great  severity. 
I  was  correct  in  saying  he  was  not  attached  to  my  party, 
for  he  was  only  a  volunteer,  he  could  not  properly  be  said 
to  be  one  of  my  command.  3 

Governor,    How  many  men  have  you  ? 

Pike,    Fifteen. 

Governor,    And  this  Robinson  makes  sixteen. 
y  Fike,    I  have  already  told  your  excellency  that  he 
doe^  not  belong  to  my  party,  and  shall  answer  no  more  in- 
terrogatories on  that  subject. 

Governor,    When  did  you  leave  St.  Louis  \ 

Pike,     15th  July.  Pi/q^ 

Governor,    I  think  you  marched  in  June. 

Pike,    No,  sur ! 

Governor,    Well !  return  with  Mr.  Bartholemew  to 

took  pla^l^  house,  and  come  here  again  at  seven  o'clock,  and  bring 

our  papers ;  on  which  we  returned  to  the  house  of  my 

iend  Bartholemew,  who  seemed  much  hurt  at  the  in> 


widi 
vhich 
kg  the 
icence 
serab\e 
letown 
140  0ft 
;  of  the 
alacei^ 
Iters  for 

uses  bate 

iooringo^ 

;  very  W; 
jpulatton'tt 

crowds 

se.    ^^^«^ 
g^  vario\u 

ith  sk5mol| 
v^ted  inil 
appeared,! 


lew. 


our 
? 

,  • 

icer 


counti^J 


of  the^J 


be  attaci 


Jied 


At  the  door  of  the  govemmem  house,  I  met  the  old 
prenchman,  to  whom  I  had  given  the  scrap  of  paper  on  the 
pth  February.  He  had  left  us  in  the  morning,  and  as  I 
appose,  hurried  in  to  make  his  report,  and  I  pi  esume  had 
ited  this  paper  to  his  excellency.  I  demanded  with 
I  look  of  contempt,  if  he  had  made  his  report  ?  to  which 
I  made  reply  in  an  humble  tone,  and  began  ^o  excuse 
self,  but  I  did  not  wait  to  hear  his  excuses.  At  the 
bur  appointed  we  returned,  when  the  governor  demand* 


H' 


,p 


W 


V    !!^M 


V I         i 


Lt*>'  ' 


,0OK«AU  OF  K  VOYAGE 

ttkeapo~««ionof  byhisgu  ^  for  one  Solo- 

^  itinedUtely  <*f«"^  "^."L,  our  army,  and  ««e  of 
*»  CoUy,  formerly  ^^'^'^.^^  We  were  t^ 
Ae  unfortunate  comjony  °'  "  Mme,towl»chl 

*hrhe  ordered  Cd'^  ~  "I^X^rovince  1  «as  bom; 
jTed ,  he  then  ''^7'*!;';Sd'essed  his  exceUenc, 
^^ered  «f  "S^^  ^aU  did  not  think  it  necess^, 
in  French,  and  told  hiro  that  i  ^^„,d  be  it 

Tol^ri^tosucha  "'-^l^i^^Snth.Unit^lSta,^. 
Ae  pain  of  reading  my  conttm-^"  ^^  ^„  ^,  i  p,, 

^d  my  orders  from  my  g"'"'''' "  ^  his  excellency  tte 
Swdbe  netes^UTT  «°J^^,as  the  Spanish  go- 
r^  ^thno  hostUe  mtennons  t^  ^^ 

leZent,onthe  contrary,  that  I  tol     P  ^,t, 

^'^^  against  giving  them  ?«^"'' J^tf  »nd  f^ 
toguaru  "B         o      K.  convmced  tnai  luj  .h.so. 

to  excellency  would  bee  ^_^  ^,„^h  Ae» 

Bentiments.  .^  ,„  see  my  commisMon  and  ordaJ 

.He  then  '«»»"*«'  ^^^^l^^n  which  he  got  upanll 

g»ve  me  bis  h».d,  for  ^J*^  ^„  of  honor  a»dj 

itobe  »cq>.aintedw^*"^^=^     ^^     ^  .ake  j 

S-r^bU^thTrrmorrow  he  would  maKe  ..< 

^nk  wth  me  i  tnai 

tt«^  arrangements.  _  j^„a  by  the 

,,    «A  M^cb,  Wechm^  J^deT  that  he  might » 

,imvor  to  bring  up  my  ««'*''"   .  .     when  he  order 

:  Se  observations  on  "yj;,^*^^^  ,.„ceived  thej 

„e  to  take  my  trunk  over  mg  ^  ^j  ^^  M 


THROUGH  THE  INTERIOR  PROVINCES,  &c.     213 

that  the  inhabitants  were  treating  the  men  with  liquor.;  I 
was  fearful  they  would  become  intoxicated,  (and  through 
inadvertancy)  betray  or  discover  the  papers ;  I  had  there- 
fore obtained  several  of  them  and  had  put  them  in  the 
trunk,  when  an  officer  arrived  for  myseir  and  it,  and  I  had 
no  opportunity  of  taking  them  out  ag'ain  before  I  was 
taken  up  to  the  palace.  I  discovered  instantly  that  I  was 
deceived,  but  it  was  too  late  to  remedy  the  evil. 

After  examining  the  contents  of  my  trunks  lie  in- 
formed me,  I  must  (with  my  troops)  go  to  Chihuahua, 
province  of  Biscay,  to  appear  before  the  commandant- 
general  J  he  added,  you  have  the  key  of  your  trunk  in 
your  own  possession ;  the  trunk  will  be  put  under  charge 
of  the  officer  who  commands  your  escort.  The  following 
conversation  then  took  place. 

Pike,    If  we  go  to  Chihuahiua  we  must  be  considered 
as  prisoners  of  war  ? 

Governor,    By  no  means. 

Pike.    You  have  already  disarmed  my  men  Fithout 
my  knowledge,  are  their  arms  to  be  returned  or  not  ? 

Governor,     They  can  receive  them  any  moi^ent. 

Pike.  But  sir,  I  cannot  consent  to  be  led  three  or 
four  hundred  leagues  out  of  my  route^  without  its  being 
y  force  of  arms. 

Governor,    I  know  you  do  not  go  voluntarily,  hut  I 

honor  ^n^mjn gjvg  yQu  ^  certificate  from  under  my  hand  of  my  hav^i 
ajxd  take  tBrn^g  Q^jjgg J  y^y  ^Q  jjjjy.^jj  #  ^ 

[uld  maJi^®  *^     Pike,     I  will  address  you  a  letter  on  the  subject.f 

Governor,    You  will  dine  with  me  to  day,  and  march 

brwards  to  a  village  about  six  i^iles  distant,  escorted  by 

[iptain  Anthony  D'Alngiansa,  with  a  detachment  of  dra- 

ans,  who  will  accompany  you  to  where  the  remainder 


and  orden,] 

pie  got  ^P^  , 
dhewasha?! 


I'     5? 


•  See  Appendix  to  Part  HI  [No.  9.]  page  70. 
t  See  Appendix  to  Pact  HI.  [No>  8>]  page  69, 


mmM 
'ill 


'i    '--I 


THE 

gins,  boot 

consequr 

did  the  no 

ceiviog  th 

cald,  as  p 

dress,     1 

I  was  dres 

blanket  co 

fox  skins  a 

leather  cc 

appearance 

as  soldiers 

quently  to 

[with  a  vari 

first  miprei 


rf  die  officer  »h  ^.„„er«inenttom,ol«r- 

ma*,  in  «he  ^'T^  rf  yours  1th  Ml  "t**  *»  * 

^  ^  ..^  the  house  ot  «ny  i  had  not  to- 

1  Aen  ««««t^.hU  exceUency,  «hKh  1  haa 

.    7„f  Ws  private  secretary  twenty  ^o,^»oniinon  pe 

Ae  h»»^  °*  ?^^  ?"^  die  amount  of  the  ta"^  ,h,,plKamps  like , 
^  ""  "fTocXahua  and  that  «  wouW^  ^  ^^p„  _. 
for  my  party  «» ^™:       -ubsistence ;  f"""  "^      ^  jj 

»"^rSSr-uU  ^/^^iu^  from  »^ 
^f  T^  received  by  A^  "^  ^  ,„„pto«2 

'^S^cyashirt^^n^^^^i^^ey  w- ^^ 
-^'^'S  rw^^fatJneverhadbeen^^J^^jL^   _ 

" '^■"^'JTS  n^d^^^^'^'^^ltidltaaJsiontoM 

i  -^,Cs*  f  ri  :f i^j'iLSpr 

,„„aroental  parts  ot  or  secondary,  leam     i 

tion  claimed  our  first  care,  t  l 

I 


ips  like  I 
lose  obsei 

uncout] 
The  d 
iving  a  vai 
ices,  and 
le  infiueno 

informe 
[een   the 


f  ir?^-^ 


THROUGH  THE  INTERIOR  PROVINCES,  See.    917 

gins,  boots  and  mockinsons  were  the  next  in  consideration } 
consequently,  I  left  all  my  uniform,  clothing,  trunks,  &c.  aa 
did  the  men,  except  what  they  had  on  their  backs ;  con- 
ceiving that  which  would  secure  the  feet  and  legs  feom  the 
cold,  as  preferable  to  any  less  indispensable  portioik  of  ouv 
dress.     Thus,  when  we.  presented  ourselves  at^9ai|t%  Fe.} 
I  was  dressed  in  a  pair  of  blue  trowseriH  mcwklBSQnB, 
blanket  coat  and  a  cap  made  of  scarlet  cloth,  'Uned  wMh 
fox  skins  and  my  poor  fellows  in  leggings,  breech  fltfp  and 
leather  coats  and  not  a  hat  in  the  whole  partjivPThis 
appearance  was  extremely  mortiiying  to  us  all,  especially 
as  soldiers,  and  although  some  of  the  officers  used  fre- 
quently to  observe  to  me,  that  **  worth  made  the  man,"  &c. 
with  a  variety  of  adages  to  the  same  amount.     Yet  the 
first  nnpression  made  on  the  ignorant  is  hard  to  eradicate ; 
and  a  greater  proof  cannot  be  given  of  the  ignorance  of  the 
lommon  people,  than  thdr  asking  if  we  lived  in  houses  Qr 
ps  like  the  Indians,  or  if  we  wore  hats  in  our  country  | 
iose  observations  are  sufficient  to  shew  the  impression 
uncouth  appearance  made  amongst  them* 
The  dinner  at  the  governor's  was » rather  splendid, 
iving  a  variety  of  dishes  and  wines  of  the  southern  pro- 
iCes,  and  when  his  excellency  was  a  little  warmed  with 
le  influence  of  cheering  liquor,  he  became  very  sociable, 
informed  me  that  there  existed  a  serious  difficulty  be- 
feen   the    commandant    general  of  the  internal  pro- 
^-*7"g^p)^ftces  and  the  marquis  Caso  Calvo,  who  had  given  per- 
A  ffltualdJBssion  to  Mr.  Dunbar,  to  explore  the  Ouchata  contrary  to 
left  o4  general  principles  of  their  government ;  and  in  conse- 
^^         g  obv^c^  o^  which,  the  former  had  made  ifepresentations 

'e   conseqne' 

o«\  tothefl^^c^Wency  ordered  his  coach;  captain  „ D'Almansa, 

rr\.    axnlftJ^®^^'^^^  ^"^  myself  entered  with  him,  and  he  drove 
-    Ajer,  113  miles.     He  was  drawn  by  six  mules  and  attended  by 
f»^®  1  Ee 


uoand 

end  600 
party  to 
deaceDd 


^ecessarf. 

irtholetne« 
ladnotfia. 

,overnorb| 
ioUar8,noi 
,»8aUowano 
Ji  be  chargti 

lus  1  clearil 
pences  of 

the  ^M 

as  f  'o*^ 

cotnptonent^ 

were  xnade 

ornbya^y 
ackno^V 


\'- 


r.>  •,  f 


218 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE 


a  guard  of  cavalry.    When  we  parted  his  adieu  wmh  r^. 
member  Allencaster,  in  peace  or  war." 

Left  a  note  for  my  sergeant,  with  instructions  to  keep 
up  good  disciplibe  and  not  be  alarmed  or  discouraged.  As 
I  was  about  leaving  the  public  square,  poor  Colly  (the 
Americah  prisoner,)  came  up  with  tears  in  his  eyes  and  hop. 
ed  I  would  not  forget  him,  when  I  arrived  in  the  United 
States. 

Jdter  we  left  the  governor  we  rode  on  about  three 
miles  to  a  defile  where  we  halted  for  the  troops  and  I  soon 
found  that  the  old  soldier  who  accompanied  us  and  com. 
manied  our  escort  was  fond  of  a  drop  of  the  cheering 
liquor,  as  his  boy  carried  a  bottle  in  his  cochmelies  (a  small 
leather  case  attached  to  the  saddle  for  the  purpose  of  car. 
rying  small  articles.)  We  were  accompanied  by  my  friend 
Bartholemew.  We  ascended  a  hill  and  galloped  on  uii> 
ti?  about  ten  o'clock ;  snowing  hard  all  the  time,  when  «e 
came  to  a  precipice  which  we  descended,  meeting  with 
great  difficulty  (from  the  obscurity  of  the  night)  to  theHcompi 
small  village  where  we  put  up  in  the  quarters  of  the  priest,l(/on]  a 
he  being  absent.  B^xpres! 

After  supper,  captain  D'Almansa  related  to  me  tluKnests 
he  had  served  his  catholic  majesty,  40  years  to  arrive  Arbo  we 
the  rank  he  then  held,  which  was  a  first  lieutenant  in 
line,  and  a  captain  by  brevet,  whilst  he  had  seen  van 
young  Europeans  promoted  over  his  head  ;  after  the 
man  had  taken  his  quantum  suffieit  and  gone  to  sli 
my  friend  and  myself  sat  up  for  some  hours,   he 
plaining  to  me  their  situation,  the  great  desire  they  felt 
a  change  of  affairs,  and  an  open  trade  with  the  Unii 
States.     I  pointed  out  to  him  with  chalk  on  the  floor  iBiefs  of  th 
geographical  connection  and  route,  from  North  MexjlKer  head 
and  Louisiana,  and  finally  gave  him  a  certificate  addresi  house  • 
to  the  citizens  of  the  United  States,  stating  his^  frieninor,  can 


no 
tat 
vdtl 

m 

was, 
todr 
mona 


mdtm 
I  hi 
raid  sh( 

We; 

was  Is 
'^Norte, 
nativ 


his  adieu  was  H  re. 

nstructions  to  keep 
>r  discouraged.  As 
f,  poor  Colly  (the 
n  his  eyes  and  hop. 
red  in  the  United 

de  on  about  three 
;  troops  and  I  soon 
nied  us  and  com. 
p  of  the  cheering 
ochmehes  (a  small 
he  purpose  of  car* 
uiied  by  my  ^end 
id  galloped  on  uii> 
the  time,  when  we 
led,  meeting  witb 
the  night)  to  the 
rters  of  the  priest, 

elated  to  me  tl 
years  to  arrive 
t  lieutenant  in  t 
had  seen  vari( 
ad ;  after  the 


•■as  decidedly  of  onin!        ''*0'  valuabfeT    -  ^»  P»Per 

"«&l  tori"  ,.'*''8^.  and  of  .4.?A"^«Mtoou, 
"*•»«.  and  d„^;  ^''"'fi^mWs  ™°T«'  *«  being 
"».'h.tweever?k        "^  »«e«n    l""*"  country 

K'-cft.  0^  ;^  ;;;  »«^er  affini ;  VL'^  °C 
ItMipiiehend  /,„  J,,^'"^  »re. «  o  ,er  *        ^"^  of  a 

*»»  of  con,ie„cet™Vj:^  '"'«  ^^-^^  ,    ""^  ««'« 
"pressed  his  ^'™'««'  in  ou,  cou„!^     '^'*<='  free- 

r''-'a„dfe:r^f'•'''"^u,4d^f^•  ^^e 


l<(,i  ' 


no 


JOURNAL  OV  A  VOYAO£ 


''  I!' 


t 

tl 

tv 
br 
caj 

my 
past. 


ing  of  our  quarters  and  ourselves  with  wood,  water,  pro- 
visions ice,  for  the  house  itself  contained  nothing  but  bare 
walls  and  small  grated  windows,  and  brought  to  my  recoU 
lection  the  representation  of  the  Spanish  inhabitants,  as 
given  by  Dr.  Moore  in  his  travels  through  Spain,  Italy, 
&c.  This  village  as  well  m  that  of  St.  Philip's  and  St. 
Bartholemew,  are  of  the  nation  of  Keres,  many  of  whom 
do  not  yet  speak  good  Spanish. 

After  we  had  refreshed  ourselves  a  little,  the  captain 
sent  for  the  keys  of  the  church :  when  we  entered  it;  and 
i  was  much  astonished  to  find  enclosed  in  mud-brick 
walls,  many  rich  paintings,  and  the  Saint  (Domingo)  ag 
large  as  life,  elegantly  ornamented  with  gold  and  silver: 
die  captain  made  a  slight  inclination  of  the  head,  and  in> 
timafed  to  me,  that  this  was  the  patron  of  the  village.  We 
then  ascended  into  the  gallery,  where  the  choir  are  g^er* 
ally  placed.     In  an  outside  hall  was  placed  another  image  I 
of  the  saint,  less  richly  ornamented,  where  the  populace 
repaired  daily,  and  knelt  to  return  thanks  for  benefactioml 
recdved,  or  to  ask  new  favors.     Many  young  girls,  iii| 
deed,  chose  the  time  of  our  visit  to  be  on  their  knees  be>| 
fore  the  holy  patron.     From  the  flat  roof  of  the  chuitil 
We  had  a  delightful  view  of  the  village ;  the  Rio  del  Nor 
old  our  west ;  the  mountains  of  St.  Dies  to  the  south, 
the  valley  round  the  town,  on  which  werv-*  numerous  herilBverted  h( 
ofi^oats,  sheep,  and  asses ;  and  upon  the  whole,  this  m|&c. 
on0  of  the  handsomest  views  in  New  Mexico. 

\  6th  March,   .>/V/a^.— Marched  down  the   Rio 
Noite  on  the  east  side.     Snow  one  foot  deep.     Pas 
largl^  flocks  of  goafs.     At  the  village  of  St.  Philip's,  crosj 
ed  at  bridge  of  eight  arches,  constructed  as  follows, ' 
the  {^lars  made  of  neat  wood  work,  something  similar! 
a  cntt,  and  in  the  form  of  a  keel  boat,  the  sharp  end,lve  to  Jcnoi 
bow,|o  the  current ;  this  crate  or  butment  f^as  filled  ifai^  c^iew 


I,  water,  pro- 
lung  but  bare 
t  to  my  recol- 
ihabitants,  as 
Spain,  Italy, 
lilip's  and  St. 
lany  of  whom 

le,  the  captain 
entered  ir,  and 
in  mud-brick 
(Domingo)  ag 
Id  and  ^Iver: 

head,  and  in* 
le  village.  Vfe 
hoir  are  gifnar. 

another  image 
re  the  populace 
or  benefaction! 
^oung  girls,  it^ 
their  knees  be. 
■  of  the  churdil 
e  RiodelNoi 
)  the  south, 
numerous  heri 
whole,  this 


THROUGH  THE  iNTrnr^., 

stone. «  which  the  river  Jod«.d  sand    ,''''''    «' 
become  of  a  toJemble  firmTo„^^'  "^^^  &c-  untij  ithaj 
thepiiiars  were  Wd  p^uTlTt''     ^'^  ^'^^  ^P^ 
^o  .des.  and  being  j^c^  ^^^^^^^  "^^'^  ^^l^^ecTon 
Wge  for  horses,  but  Zltn^u^r^^'  *  ^oJemble 
carn^s.  as  there  were  no  hand  ^^  "^^  "'^  '^^  ^- 

<Ja  our  arrivaJ  a^  th^  u  *' 

"'^vedin  .  very  i^t^"^  °i  '^  «'"'".  we  we« 

"y  departure,  w".^^^  ^^  '^'^'  '^  bj^ 
pMt  ™«»  «o  have  been  friends  for  j^ 

During  our  dinner,  a.  „i,-  u 
J-nes.  anu  were  entertl'J' *'""'  ^  '"«•  »  variety  of 
*""».  French  horns.^oT!'l'"''^''™'nP°8ed  ofbaj 

entered  into  a  long  and  ZZ         ''^'^''  *elikeZ 
*«.  -hemn  he  ne-thenS^'":!"^''™'  -  «o  U,e^ 

Rub,  displayed  a  iibe^lif^"'!"  '«<'  «%on,  Fath^ 
•^p.  which  astonished  I     C?  =*^»'^''  o^W 
I  f-'  on  whiph  he  hadfa,  ~  '  i*'""'  "^  «  »«»tistic.I 
H»'e  P««i„ce  of  New  m"^^^'*',^"*'-'  «=*»  the 
Tous,  on  the  north-west  ^^'.^^  ""^8^  beginnimr  „ 
-th.  ->d  giving  thl^iet"?  "'*  ^»'«She 
[whether  natives  orSpanii^Si  °"^«-*.  "^  '"P-btion! 

IMS  or  Paeans  uu^t.      ^  ^''"^   '■barbarou^ri.  • 
(.».^  1.  **™' ""mbers,  name  .«  ».        ."*™"s»Chnst. 

Ned  how  goveraed,  .^awM""^  T™'  *''«'  ^n- 

t>m  short,  a  comply' ^'^'  "'^SX'  ^ory,  &. 

."""."Py.  •>«  perceive!  thTl  ^^""'  ^"^ed  to  ob. 
h>™ed  at  its  having  l^  t^^"^  ^  ^mewhat 

C  r  '^'"'■^  'o  wrtTto  e^  '"k""*-    When  we 
i"med  from  Chihuahua.  *'''  "''«'  which  I  per. 

Here  was  an  old  Indian  who  «,= 

h  X'  "jnow  if  we  were  8^2.!.'?""^'^  ^'J'*'-- 


:f 


22» 


JOURNAL  6F  A  VOYAGE 


"  .  m 


of  father  Rubi,  replied  in  the  affirmative ;  but  says  the 
Indian,  "  they  do  not  speak  Castillian,"  true  replied  the 
other,  but  you  are  an  Indian  of  the  nation  of  Keres,  are 
you  not  ?  Yes.  Well  the  Utahs  are  Indians  also  ?  Yes. 
But  still  you  do  not  understand  them,  they  speaking  a  dtf. 
ferent  language.  True  replied  the  Indian ;  well,  said  the 
old  gentleman,  those  strangers  are  likewise  Spaniards,  but 
do  not  speak  the  same  language  with  us.  This  reasoning 
seemed  to  satisfy  the  poor  savage,  and  I  could  not  but 
smile  at  the  ingenuity  displayed  to  make  him  believe  there 
was  no  other  nation  of  whites  but  the  Spaniards. 

Whilst  at  dinner,  father  Rubi  was  informed  one  of 
his  parishioners  was  at  the  point  of  death,  and  wished  his 
attendance  to  receive  his  confession. 

We  took  our  departure,  but  were  shortly  after  over- 
taken by  our  friend,  who  after  giving  me  another  heasty 
shake  of  the  hand,  left  us.  Crossed  the  river  and  passed 
two  small  hamlets  and  houses  on  the  road  to  the  village 
of  St.  Dies,  opposite  the  mountain  of  the  same  name,  i 
where  we  were  received  in  a  house  of  fether  Rubi,  thij 
making  part  of  his  domains. 

Itb  March,  Sa/wr^Aay.— Marched  at  nine  o*cl(xiBtoolc  /jq/T 
through  a  country  better  cultivated  and  inhabited  thaoAown  be  ' 
any  I  had  yet  seen.   Arrived  at  Albuquerque,  a  village  ooK  f^  ^^^ . 
the  east  side  of  the  Rio  del  Norte.    We  were  received  byWei^  and 
father  Ambrosio  Guerra  in  a  very  flattering  manner,  andj"  Yon  w'n 
led  into  his  hall.     From  thence,  after  taking  some  refreslw  what  an*] 
ment,  into  an  inner  appartment,  where  he  ordered  ^We  hand  an  J 
adopted  children  of  die  female  sex,  to  appear,  when  thejcene  I  had 
came  in  by  turns,  Indians  of  various  nations,  Spanislfbn  on  mv 
French,  and  finally,  two  young  girls,  who  from  their  conAre,  which 
plexion  I  conceived  to  be  English  :  on  perceiving  I  notiJar/cs  of  fr; 
ed  them,  he  ordered  the  rest  to  retire,  many  of  who!    Bq^^   ,  J 
were  beautiful,  and  directed  those  to  sit  down  on  the  sofginnjW  to 


t  says  the 
ipUed  the 
ICeres,  are 
tlso?  Yes. 
kinga^- 
U,  ssdd  the 
niards,  but 
I  reasoning 
aid  not  but 
elieve  there 

s. 

med  one  of 

I  wished  his 

y  after  ovfr. 
other  heaBty 
;r  and  passed 
o  the  village , 
same  name, 
jr  Rati,  thij 


fc^-deme,  thus  situated   he, „u        . 
efcen  to  the  east  by  the  W.      ""*  *«  ^^^  ^ad  been 
to  another,  „„d,  he  pu ^^,1^^  t'™'  onenadon 
b"t  they  could  «coltoS  W  "  *"  ""^  ^^"^ 
but  concluding  they  v»^^„    *^  ""^  "^  language 

%  appea^d  nothing  L7^^T^'"T'f-  •°*'^'> 
which  consisted  of  4fo„s  ilL^  f,  ''"^  ">  ««»ner, 
'rem,  all,  we  were  waited  oT^  r^  *"/  "^  »<»  "> 
'^"'•if"!  girls,  who  like  C,*^/ ;  ''°-''  <>'  «ho,e 
converted  our  wine  to  necuT  ".*' f^f  <^  '^^S"*. 
"«"*  shed  incense  on  curl' ""  ^^  *f '">"'«»ial 
"moved  some  time,  thepries,  So„-:f^  *'  ''°"'  "^ 
»"<l  led  me  into  his  «  sancZ  c        ^  "*  "•  *»"»»  Wm. 
•kerichand  majesdc  i::;r:ft^^™r  where  he h:^' 
■»«l«  the  crucified  Jesus.l^^inu  T"'  '"''  ™  *« 
»ys  of  golden  glory  suA>„Z,  .'"*  ^""^  ***  "ch 
«»"  being  h4  w,^h  blXSct  •'^  i  «  shon,  the 
'"gment  the  gloom  and  majesTrf  "       '  '^«'  "^^  '" 
""■caved  my  imagination  Sf    *  "*"*•    When  he 
»a  black  g^wn  afd^^'^^"^ J^^g".  „p.  he  p„ 

'«^  low  of  my  hand  an^*^l^..^^°- *«>  -ss,  4l 


nine  o  v.i^m-a'iw  iioia  ot  my  hand  anH  «n^  "'^  ^^°^y  and 

^habited  toliown  bes,<,e  hi^ ,  ^  my^T^'^  «!""/  ">  pui  me 

,,  a  village  <»■>  few  mmutes  and  then  ro-,  S.-    jf"^*^  '^^"y  ^r 

re  receivedblte,  and  as  I  conceiZT^t^  'T'I  ™  "y  shoul. 

;n«u«er,»*rou  willnotbea  Chtit^ r.  "'u*™ '"''^ '<"»e. 


manner,»*rou  willnotbea  Cht^t^ oh'-      k*™ '"''^ '° ™e. 
«,merefres*»hatapi.y!»  He  Ae.,  thre;  off  hi/^'"  ''">'  °^'- 
,e  ordered  life  hand  and  led  me  out  of  tlT  ""^  «°°k  me  by 

.  when  thAene  I  had  gone  through  had  m'^To^?™''"^'  ""«  "-e 
■ns,  SpanAn  on  my  mind  to  be  eradicat^^^nn    '"""^  ="  '"'l'''^. 
™  their  conlre.  whirh  .^. :-  ._   r™"cated,  until  we  took  on,  a  -_ 


„„„..-._- "■" sone tnrough had  made  ,n„  ,    •      *'  ""  ™ 

nons,  SpamAn  on  my  mind  to  be  eradicatT^n  ""  ="  ^P'**" 

rom  their  coAre,  which  was  in  an  hour  afiT;    K     "" '°°''  °'"-'^<^P"-^ 
ceiving  I  notArfcs  of  friendship  from  the  father  ^™^  '"''''''"'  ^''e*' 
jjanyofwno      Both  above  and  below  Albn      " 
,wn  on  the  so  ginning  to  open  the  canals   to  IT'''"',."'*  ""''="'*  ''ere 

'       'et  m  the  water  of  the 


'm'  t    ''If' 


.■  1 1     :' 


it/'  '• 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAQli 

vith  rich  abundance  'h"'  ™"^  ^^^^  brought  to  iq 

plenty  for  *«  «»r«  ^f^rf Jons  given  Vy  Savary  rf  the 

recollection  the  bright  ^^^^^^  cultivation  of  tto 

opening  of  the  canals  of  ^-  ^d  » 

fidds  was  now  ^"'"^'"S^IS^        ^e  cro», 

•    siveUfe'-if-yJ^tSnShevilUge  of  Albu- 

ed  the  R.0  del  Norte,  ^^      ^     ^Bt  not  more  tta» 

queniue  where  it  was  400  yards  w«  ^^^ 

^hreeto  deep»d  ^'-^^I'^^^'-Jf;,  _,ovince.  ^  gave 
«„■«,  was  the  only  chart  we  »w»A^P  ^^,  j,„„,  ^ 
thenearconnecaonofthe^^eso  „^,Uo* 

.he  Rio  Coloredo  of  ^^'^^'^  dependency  of  fethe, 
On  our  arrivingat  the  ^^^^  ^J^  of  theconm*. 

An^rosio,  we  ^^r'f^Trc^  sitting  by  the  fo 
dant;  when  1  enter^.  ^  wchJTfine  complexion  a.ri 
^gaboomwithbloommgAed^^fin^  J^     I,^ 

a  gemus  spea^g  eye,  ne  ^  ^^  ^ 

R^binsonl  -^r r^N^e  S^"-^"'  '^ 
head  waters  of  tiie  R-odd  NoJ;?    ^^^^^  ^,  u\ 
w,combed  lodes  and  beard Jrfog  ThectoBg.1 

«ithfire,unsubduedenterpn^fo«^j^  ^^  ^^ 

,as  indeed  ^^f ';.7;  .\:rrdo  not  know  you  •,"  I  rJ 
«  Robmson !    '  ^^  >       °  .j,;,^  «  I  would  f^ 

pUed  -,  «  but  I  know  you,    he  «^  ^  ^1 

L  unknown  to  you  here^tn^s  "J       t^^     ^^ 

presMon ;  to  avoid  all  the  pams  tn  y^  ^ 

Ly  friend  I  grieve  »  -  y- ^^  ^f  wear  my  sword  yj 
you  are  a  prisoner.         rep  ^^^^^  ^j 

U  and  all  my  men  have  ^^'^  ^  guards  in  d 
dare  to  iU  treat  us  we  will  ^"'^'^  Jf  J         ,„  ^ 

night.  ^  °f  '"-"^  ""'"^ 


ten  of 
crown 
ethem 
ttom^ 

y  q{  the 

L  of  tli« 
reared  ti> 
^e  crossr 
of  Albu. 
norethan 

,  that  gave 
^otteatid 
loiacauoi*. 

cy  of  fcitl^« 
jiecomtnaa- 

by  the  fiK 
LplexioaanA 

eat.    U«« 

ramp,  P^^  ** 
iciated. 


gro' 


►vrth, 


The  change 


THROUGUa  THE  INTERIOR  f  RQVINCES,  tec.    99S 

i  '      ■  •      .     .     .  .         i        .       <i 

laches  so^d  tHen  ^et  ^em  at  de(u)Of:e.V  4$  tj|^  moment 
icaptiun  P'Almanai  e;ntemi  and  i  imtrpduced  j^olpi^pn  tia 
hini}  ^  Comf^m  de  Veytf^  and  ^end»  hi^  J^j^vmg 
jj^ue  seenhiir  it  Sfmta  F!e..  JHedidlipt  appi^  inuq|i 
^nurpnaed  and  received  hifu  y^t|i  a  jsiipii^cant  ^le,  9s 
much  as  tp  say,  I  knew  this,  yif  then  inarc|ie^  out  to 
tl^e  ph^e  were  the  soldiers  were  encamped,  not  qne  of 
;^I^om  would  rej;qgnize  him  (agreeably  to  orders,)  until  I 
^ve  them  the  sjgn.  Then  it  was  a  joyful  meeting,  as  the 
whole  jMurty  was  f^thusiastically  fond  of  him.  He  gave 
me  tJheipiUowmg  relation  of  his  adventures  after  he  left  me* 
rf'I  mffr^edthje  £^  day  HP  th;e  branch  on  which  we 
<'  \^ere  situatCKli  as  you  1^  concluded  it  would 

*'  bje^tl^ije  p^  i^Y^per  tp /oi|ow  it  to  its  source,  and  then 
(( cross  the  mount^li^  l^rest,  ^^irhere  \|re  had  conceived  we 
^.should  |pn4  .the  Sp'^'^^^^h  setilejp^ents,  and  at  Wf^^  en- 
«( camped  <m  its  ^nks ,  .,  secoi^d  day  I  left  it  a  little  ai\d 
Mtjoren^r^  fto^^,  ana  was  ge^g  up  the  aide  of  the 
^  ii^ouii^i^,  ^hiiX  discovered  two  Indians,  fo^  ivhcpml 
ffna4(ej  ^^F^«  suro^  wi|^  l^y^.  and  an»^,  and 
M  ^ere  extrqi^ly  d>y  of  my  approach,  but  after  some  iJ^e, 
[^  cp^fide^e  being  soip^what  restored ;  I  si^nifie4  ^  wish 
l^to  go. to. Sapta  Fe,  when  they  pointed  due  south,  down 
U«  the  river,  I  Ifft  you  on.    As  ,1  could  .not  believe  them 


.  ^giflie4M?lr«twited  the  a^quiry  and  received  the  same  re|)ly 
^  ^ .» 1  rC'l"  then  conclufled  that  we  had  been  deceived,  and  i;hat  you 
*  7  ^ould  n<Jl*  ff^^  9°  ^  ^9  ^'^  Norte,  instead  of  Red.  river,  and 
V  and  oflf  ^  embarrassed  whether  I  should  not  immediately  re- 
*  flict.  ^^  ^''^  '^^  apprise  you  of  it,  but  concluded  it  to  be  too  late, 
'  f  r  I  presuQV  ^^  was  discovered  by  the  Indians,  whpm  if  I  had  not 
1'  ^Qj.^  ^oV  met  or  some  others  I  should  have  continued  on  and 
moment  dvcj  crossed  the  mountain  on  the  waters  of  the  Goloredo, 
2xd&  in  4^d  descended  them,  until  from  their  course  I  should 
L      ,«!iv  to  Af  l>*ve  discovered  my  mistake.     I  therefore  offered  them 


\      I 


%  1 


way  to 


F  f 


JOURNAL  O?  A  VOYAGE 

«  some  present,  » ,co^«  X^  Adr  *omen  *«e. 
»  ducted  me  to  *«  ^^ /;^e  on  o«  march.  Tte 

..  ^  to  about  fi»=  «rX  W«'  ^  ^  '^  '"^  "^ 
«  nieht  we  encamped  m  «e  *'"    !.^  ^     The  next  day 

/olinstomy    f^  t'C^T-  the  .Ulage  of 

«  at  three  o'd'>''''J^-,"i„me^»tely  taken  »»*« 
«  Aqua  CaUente.  «''«%'^^  „pre»es  dbpatched  .0 
«  house  of  tK^^^""?"^^^  o  sleep  on  amatrasson 
«  SantaFe.  T*'^*"'^''  J '^e  departed  early,  leavmgn,, 
..  Ae  aoor.  The  "^'f^^ J^^ts,  hepromis.ngio 
«  arms  *nd  baggage  « the  ^      ^        on  our  amvd 

.<  have  them  ^'^''"^ J^"  "l'^^  me  with  peat  austetw 
.<  at  SantaX'e,thegovernor««nr^         J'^  ^b^ 

..  ty  at  first,  and  ^''^fTT^  papers.  After  all 
„  I,s  and  took  V^'^JJZl.  ^  ^^  "" 
«  te  w»e''Pl^'l'''^lt^nder  an  arrest  and  an^ 

"  °«=-^  ''"!;  A«  tla^^^d  me,  when  I  walked  c. 
«  commissioned  officer  toa^^^^^^  ,^ ^       I^ 

«  into  thedty.wh.chlhadire  P  „^,«,ble,^ 

«  supplied  with  f^^^^f^rtoBabtisteLalandetocoJ 

„  Jpromisedhewovdd-n^o    ^^^^  wm,  ^  ^ 

udownandan^ertothe^^^        lf„f.    ThesecondJ, 
«  circumstancelhadappnzed^  y  ^^^^^^^^,h  to 

.<  the  governor  sent  ^0^%^      of  Lalande,  to  dischajj 

„  „ade  enquiry  as  t°  "™^^essed  no  property,  ta 
«  the  debt,  and  found  tto  hep  ^^^^^^^^  ^^  ^ 

•*  that  at  some  future  pen«i,  remonstrance,  as: 

..forme,    ^'"f  J  "iestT:  protection  of  a  refa, 

..  infringement  f  o"--  "f^f ^  ^^,  his  creditors,  wl. 
..citizen  of  the  Um^d^Smeag^^^.^^  ^^  ^ 


THROUGH  THE  INTERIOR  PROVINCES,  fcc.    227 


cQa- 


<*  case,  on  .which  Iprescribed  a  r^men  and  mode  of 

*<  treatment  which  happened  to  differ  from  the  one  adopt- 

"  ed  Dy  a  monk  and  practising  physician  of  the  place, 

"  brought  on  me  his  enmity  and  ill  offices.     The  ensuing 

"  day  I  was  ordered  by  the  governor  to  hold  mystif  in  rea- 

^<  diness  to  proceed  to  the  internal  parts  of  the  country,  to 

"  which  I  agreed ;  determining  not  to  leave  the  country  in 

"  a  clandestine  nnanner,  unless  they  attempted  to  treat  me 

*•  with  indignity  or  hardship ;  and  conceiving  it  in  my 

"  power  to  join  you  on  your  retreat,  or  find  Red  river 

**  and  descend  it ;  should  you  not  be  brought  in,  but  in 

<*  that  case  to  sliare  your  destiny :  added  to  this  I  feel  a 

"  desire  to  see  more  of  the  country  for  which  purpose  I  was 

'^  willing  to  run  the  risk  of  future  consequences.     We 

"  marched  the  ensuing  day,  I  having  been  equipped  by  my 

<<  friend,  ^h  some  small  articles  of  which  I  stood  in 

"  need  of,  such  as  I  would  receive  out  of  the  numerous 

"  offers  of  his  country.    The  fourth  day  I  arrived  at  the 

"village  of  St.  Fernandez,  where  I  was  received,  and  taken 

I "  charge  of  by  Lt.  Don  Faciendo  Malgares  who  command- 

N  ed  the  expedition  to  the  Pawnees,  and  whom  you  will 

[''  find  a  rentleman,  a  soldier  rnd  one  of  the  most  gallant 

I"  men  you  ever  knew ;  with  him  I  could  no  longer  keep 

the  disguise  and  when  he  informed  me,  (two  days  since) 

I"  that  you  were  on  the  way  in,  I  confessed  to  him  my  be- 

I"  longing  to  your  party,  and  we  have  ever  since  been  anti- 

'cipating  the  pleasure  we  three  will  enjoy,  in  our  journey 

to  Chihuahua ;  for  he  is  to  command  the  escort,  his 

dragoons  being  now  encamped  in  the  field,  waiting  your 

arrival.  Since  I  have  been  with  him  I  have  practiced  phy- 

'  sic  in  the  country  in  order  to  have  an  opportunity  of  ex- 

Jaminiag  the  manners,  customs,  &c.  of  the  people,  and  to 

Iment  ^'^*"^*.l  endeavor  to  ascertain  the  political  and  religious  feelings 
[hobelngS'^S"l„»j  * -• -*i J-^  -*■  ••«<•— ^*'-~  ,..u:-,i 


le  second  di| 
ie,thatheb 


advice  as  to' 


land  to  gain  evei7  other  species  of  information  which 


1 ,  •    il. 


MaM  lii 


,4  lotJittobFAibtAta 

«  8bw  here,  on  a  ««t  to  tto  mm  ^^  ^^  ^jj 

..  corporal  or  dfc>g.i«»»»P**^^«toott(illAecoto. 
«  asiwate  guide,  I^;to«y«^^„^«,Malfe*re^» 

Thia ended  Rob«-    ;«^Vd«,«etf.    We  agred 

Whathad  occurred     '"^^^AtojbiiiedintoWop; 
upon  our  future  lmeofcondurt»aju      ^  ^^  ^ 

S  -m  the  house ;  »ho  h»^^;  „  ^^^  tosk  ^a«4 
5,i.  provyed  U  was  »P«f  ^^"^^ .  ««»  tfaia  pn*"- 

arion.  1  complfcdm  orf«^^°°  j^ed  Maigi.*.  *!» 

iive  a  further  <&c»».»on  *>«f°^^e  troops  proceeded  « 
tsusoected  would  watch  us  dose. -rae  troop,  r 

o;rvaiage  of  T^u^c,  ^^^^^,^r^ 

hb  M««*vS«'«*?}';-7*^„ai«  distahce,  catM 

«d  halted. at  aMe  -"^I^^S^**  feo  ieV  No* 

Tousac.  situated  <.p«he  west  »o         _.^  ^^„  ^g^, 

■fte  »«» irfowe^^,"-,'^'*  «»  «^  ^^^.  supper  irf 
^ey  had  aUbeen  f^rH?-"^^  i  collection  of  tk. 
i^supper.wine,Ma^*$;;^i  ,,ft  Ais  ^lage;*. 
young  people  to  ^^'^^  I,  over,  as  the  river  4 
priest  ?ent  a  cart  down  ^°^.^   ipproached  the  vflbp 
Wly.four  fe»  "l^^P-^^^^by  fieuJenantMalgares  H 
of  St.  Fernandez,  we  '^"^  "^^^^j;,,,, .  he  r^eivedn^ 
companiedbytwo  f  ^Si^ian^hep^Btenessofa  J 
^h  the  most  manly  frf*"^' ^?,  Jfe  as  almbst  o«l 
of  tbe  world.  Yet  my  ^'^^^^^^^b"  m^tf  for  a  sU 
ppWed  me  and  o>^i^  ^'I'^J^^  Iselensations  J 
^od  in  order  "  recova  mysdt  .^^  ^^^  ^ 

■       ^mmyknowledge^^ehadj>w^^^j^^^^„fSpJ 

'chihuahua  tenmon^te,  ^^^     ,hat  which  a  mere . 

W,re  than  10,000  '»°'=^V*°;J^emor  had  effected, 
odent  and  the  decepuon  of  the  govern 


THROUGH  tliE  t^tSRIOft  I*R6v1nCES,  Ice.     SS9 


1^  •• 
Ml 

f  nfcft 

^^\ 
teUted 
agreed 
old  cap. 
[arr^  aft 

is  pic^ 


oceededoft 


Is 


.tf  for  a  sW 
cnsatiotis^c 

feu  absent 
ladeffe<^^«^- 


llfalgare^  iiiidiiigl  did  iiot  fdA  iiijrisetf  sit  ^ase  to6k  ^^fery 
liieiiAsitf  6i^  power  to  bafai^  iaf  h»cahre,  which  made  it  iak- 
}x)ss&le  bh  ihy  pah  not  to  diddatdr  to  appelur  chearftil  ^  #fe 
convened  as  toetl  as  nt/e  amldvoA  m  tilrb  hoteit  were  as 
well  abl)ttiiihted  as  somie  jkfo^ie  tirbuld  hc^  iii  the  s^me  ii^6i< 
^r  of  months.  Malgai^  (kisse^aiAg  h<Mii6  of  tl:e  haughty 
tCslstiUian  pridb,  bist  milch  bf  the  urbinity  of  a  JFV^chmah; 
and  I  will  add  my  feeble  teijtimohy  to  his  loyalty^  by  de- 
dbuiiig  that  he  waii  one  bf  the  fe#  officos  or  csdz^^ 
atkota.  I  founds  vho  ilinis  loyal  to  thdr  king,  felt  indignam 
at  the  degraded  State  of  die  Spaniish  mohaiichy ;  who  de- 
fifecateld  a  i^blutibh  or  iseparatibn  (^  Spanish  An^erica, 
from  the  nibth«7  coiinhy  ;  iiilles^  I^Vance  should  usurp  tlte 
pvernment  df  ^^laSn.  T%6se  are  ihe  men  who  pbssess  the 
beads  tb  plan,  the  hearts  to  lietel  and  the  hands  to  carry  this 
great  aAd  iihportant  work  Into  execution.  Ih'the  afternoon 
1  oorfHend  wrote  the  foWb^lviiig  notification  to  the  Alcaldeis 

of  ^Vfei^  s^idl  Villages  ahiund  us.      <*  Send  this  evening 
Y  «^  oi*  %Wt  o!f  your  handsom^srt  yotmg  girlsj  to  the  vil- 

■lage  of  ^.  Fernandez,  where  I  propo^  giving  afen- 
[<*daiii^o,fbriJhe  entertainment  of  the  American  officers 

'arrived  this  dky." 

(Signed)  DoK  Faciemdo. 


This  brd^  was  ptmctually  obeyed,  and  pourtrays  more 

^earlylhanaxhapter  of  observations,  the  degraded  state 

fthe  common  people.  In  the  evening  when  the  company 

rived,  the  ball  began  after  their  usual  manner,  and  diere 

i  really  a  handsome  display  of  beauty. 

It  will  be  proper  to  mention  here,  that  when  my  small 

er  trunk  was  brought  in,  Lt.  Malgares  struck  his  foot 

St  it,  and  said :  **  the  governor  informs  me  this  is  a 

prisoner  of  war,  or  that  I  have  charge  of  it,  but,  sir,  only 

ire  me,  that  you  will  hold  the  papers  therein  contain- 


"?\ 


I  n 


k  - 1 


■m 


^Wlli    ^ 


A  I  M\  have  notWng  to  do  wiA  i* "    II^^* 

assent,  »«lI_*>llon^y  ^  J  ^  bo».«l  by  «»«? '?  <^ 
puloudy  adhered  to,  »  »    ^a  ut  me  add  gratitude  not 

Uury  and  "f  ^l^"^'/ X  honor  of  a  soldier.  He 
to^usehishighconMencemth^  acknowledged 

further  added  that  "^"^^^Saraw  his  guarded 
«  as  one  of  your  party,  I  shau  ^^ 

■„  consider  ^n..»»^«J°«£^p,  caused  me  . 
various  marks  o^pota^e»»       soldier,  that  v»=  were  a. 

«.deavor  to e^" '^ "^Zrable  conduct  tow-dsuj. 
pableofapprecuangtas^ono^    ^         ^^^^  ^ 

.  9tb  March,  W""^/--^"'  J^ggtf  accompanid 

ten  o'clock.  Lt.  ^^^^ifionbU  rout, 
captain  D' Almansa,  '*°»'  "^f^  ^here  we  dined  5  afts 
S^ta  Fe,  to  the  house  of^mm^-  „  ^  go,,. 

«hicb  we  separated.  1  wrow  ^Y  ^^  D'Alma» 
nor.inFrenchatldtof^h^^ubun  J     ^^^^^^ 

presented  me w.*  ^'^  "P^er ,« CWhuahua.  We  rem.!^ 
•frecommendaaontoanoffic«  ^^  '"^■llagdalen. 

^*°  °"  tr  :   .tsidlfviilage  caUedSt.  Th«|„4pn,« 
commenced  our  route.  ^^^^  ^^^p  ^  fo^jp 

one  mile  <«*'="« f''"™*VriZ  presenting  abreast  w» 
in  an  elUpsis,  the  wro  long  std^  P  J^^  ^^  end 
formed  of  the  saddles  =md  to^  ^  ^^  ^^p,^  ,,., 

.heelU^sba«ngasm^>^^g  J,      Thusinca^ 
die  centre  was  the  comm  ^^^^^  ^^,,^3, 

an  attack  on  the  camp  Aere  w  »^^  ^  „ 

fight  from.  Malg=^;^S£  armf;  having  eight  n>^_ 
thing  we  have  an  Idea  01  m  .^uioage,  wines,  confe 

oaded  -th  his  common  camp^^^^^^^  ^^^ 

tionary,  &c.    ^ut  ^  on^^^^^^  ^^,^i,,,,  i^duCs,  load 

aon  of  the  Spanish  ^^^^^^^^'f^^^^^^^^  bei  ^^^ 

Mmselfwithsucnaqu-u^^f^^^ 
cavalcade  attending  on  an  ar   y 


1 
amVec 
fegeoi 
^dis: 
square; 
doors,  i 
andmoi 

Hi 
carhe'12 
edas.   I 

Thevflla 
entered  t\ 
Ims  rann 
tofflsappe 

I — |<)assed 

Magdalen, 

jencairipine] 

[sheep  for  tl 

Aandiz 

%Clri2( 

ley  are  col 
im.  Th( 
"fer  expei 

'er  parts  o 

luriers  exce 
and  exc 

>vince.  -  ]Vi 

!e( 
'clock 
fhe  places 


«9'"a«.  appearing  Kfce  a  1,^       f^  "*'»'*  »  a  remlar 

■nievfllage  we  staid  at  laT^i.r^?''*"'**^'' medicine 
»•««»  the  wiMp>,^      ^  "Sht.  being  the  Jasf  ^T  " 
"le  wuderriess  and  the  rm^  k  '  "*  "o* 

MHs  rawing  into  the  river  Zt^    ^"**  '^•'g''.  small 
""•appear  Hdher th»  4;"t^^  '^"f '  <>«  *e  w" 

P»«yciQzens  escorted  by  an  off?      /'^''^-'^O)  men. 
V»^, collected  atSbilCaM     ""^  ^^"^OtreopJ 
7-   l%goo«inI^^''^^P''"'««''ereon  ,h^ 
-'•rexpedirion  goe,  ouT^ Tf  "^""^  ^'"=^ -"^ 
^'"ISartsoftheyear  no  1-     **  '""""m.  during  the 
t'-^-excep.ed/ATthTp:^':^'":*  *e  roadf £ 
^and  exchange  mkJX£l^'°  *'  *f*e,  they 
,'™<=«-     Met  a  c^  ^T"  *'''' '«''™  to  their  owi 
*.  loaded  with  go^s  trV^ZT'^  P"^ly  ^ 

-  o'clock  and  n«'..hti«hferL^r-    "'^'^^ 
*eplace  where  he  had  beZ7n!'   ^^'«"^  '^'^^ 

«■  oeen  in  two  affaire  with  th,. 


•  Ibowtd 

W3\8  tcru- 
sry.tie  of 
atitudenot 
»lctier.  He 
Aowledged 
guard  and 
ir."   Those 
ised  me  to 
we  were  a- 
iW^fds  us. 
rched  about 
accompanied 
[ibis  rout  to 
dined*,  after 
to  the  govf 
.  D'Almana 
ve  me  a  letter 
X,  We  return? 


es,  each 
d  repass  at; 
rhus  in  case 
,rmed  works 
superior  to 
ring  eight  mul 
wines,  confs 
ice  the  con 
saltern  indulj 
lat  would  be 
r  Robinson 


k-         ! 


overtook  the  howe.  ^"l^y  ^tfaB^    *' 
act  P''»»^/?fi^bJ^.i.,«Be«^d»*?r 

ed  at  four  o'ctoA  "^XfeU  ip.lhe  ^'^'  ^  "^ 
^..ely   *11':«^..etstS  our  bread,  «de^ 

lurse  S.  20°  W.  «^hed  at  7  o'clock,  iSJ  Mar, 

joUedattwdve.    Fasaeaw 


™GHTHE.Kteh,oRp„ov.mCHS...     ,„ 
">«,  and  the  Wountun  of  the  dead     C,m 

a*  sevenU  fr«h  jBdi«'tr^ J^?*"  *°  «?>«  e«a  side; 
...«.;.<1  limHiiies  and  fnll  In  ,.,;.>.  .■.      ■';^'™«  out  east  about  three 


W  o*di)4, 
it  i(^#  *« 


lesandfell  in«ith  the  md^?'.    "', '"'^  "'»«  *'ee 

^  we  leftat  the  mouTt^X'  ^7"  '"«*  '^^  P"^'') 
2«*^«^,^.ji>.^"^"2^h«fr«r  Christopher. 

.  ^f  "on  began  to  be  discoveS'on  .f   ■"■.  *"  ^-^ ' 
k^e  w^  and  grass  wereS!:'^'''  ''*  '""'""■'• 

"ou«>pf,Don  Francisco  GarlTh '^'    ^"  P*" "P 

I'Pl^teriAepossessedinrte^Strofth  ?  '  '"'''^'"" 

^"'diJaX,  cow, ;  ,we  we^St /  *T'*^ 
Wner,,^y  Do„  Pedro  UodlT't!^  fT  '"""P""" 
-raor,  and.  6,her  Joseph  ^^^u  ^"■' ""! '«'«'»«« 

«Aree  o'clock.  tofortS^-'"''""^'''  '^"^^  "■« 


ti,     \ 


r^J  m  1,1'  \ 
rail  h   '*  t\   II 


,00««AL  OF  A  VOYAGE  -^  ^ 

»f th«  oovernor.    Malg»«»' '"''"  ..    ^ho  vm then 

«^,  Mid  continued  """V*"  r'ft-,„^dY  15 «»  «>  ''<'"" 
from  the  table  to  the  tedy  o*  «  ^^^^^j^  ^^ 

of  fortune,  might  arii  ^""""Jj  to  fort  **«»«-, 
he  distribute*  «» -^"^  ;'«  on  a  .«»ty  vrtth the  Sp». 
„ambe.of  Al.paches,who^«^  I,  tadepead™, 

iarfa.    These  Pe'P^^/P^t  oniy  »vage.  I"*;  H 

in  their  manners,  and  were  tn    ^_^  ^^  humbied,  «>>«%.»  ~"..uu.i 

Spanish  dominions.  «*«**  f  ^^  of  their  invaders.  J»i«:.mmanded 

JLks  were  not  bowed  «<>  *«J°      ,  ^p„lar  and  lbd«*e  fort,  the 

"hose  people  Malgarea  *^»  »"^J  7, he  common  p*ceived  Rot 

r«.Jht  popularity  ««^*^t  so  humble,  a*med  Maig 

pie,  fo  there  was  ^^^ .  ^  ,hen  he  w#-       ~ 

«h;se  roof  he  ^^^Wj^^^lfo  of  dolkrs'^^f 

^  I  have  seen  f-""  P^^^^'^len  andcWldren  brf»»] 

dve  them  all  to  tteoW  men,  wo  ^k»Pgh«y  j 

fetuH^to  hU;qur"li^\^:2suedthr<«gh*e«J 

.veAearing.    ^^^  ^^tltJ  Oscay.^hen 't  *  d.W 

province  of  N«w  Mextco  «J  «      T^^,^   j^i^,  ^^  .^^^ 

L«  the  sea.  °^g-^^r^':^duct,  as  he  approached!  „ndefined 

rt«t  he  "^V^Tft  a  lett«  for  my  se'g**"'-  f""' "'"'" 

capital.    1  here  »«ft?  'r'^yery  bad  weather.  __    I  28/A  Ma 

:  Wb  March.  TMsdoy-  '  ^^  a,^^:hed,|lock  and  ar 

U.Malgares  »««1  ""Vwdr-Wvine  service  «as|  29/A  Jif„ 
26/A   M««*\^*''"f^' Jrriaon.  at  which  a!  feuedour, 

formed  in  the  mornmg,  m  ««    °  one  part  of  *«« '  » "e  encan 
troops  attended  under  arms,  at 


.  iT    1 
J 


I"   .    ,      'i 


THROUGH  THE  INTERIOR  PROVINCES,  kc.    asi 


lookup 
vaathen 
lusina 


ken  at* 


^»t; 


^eatlFier 


they  present  arms,  at  another,  sink  on  one  knee  and 
rest  the  muzale  of  the  gun  on  the  ground,  in  signi^ation 
of  their  submission  to  their  divine  master.  At  one  o'clock, 
we  bid  adieu  to  our  friendly  hostess,  who  was  one  of  the 
Anest  women  I  had  seen  in  New  Spain.  At  dusk  arrived  at 
a  small  (>ond  made  by  a  spring,  which  arose  in  the  centre, 
called  the  Ogo  mall  a  Ukap,  and  seemed  formed  by  provi- 
dence to  enable  the  human  race,  to  pass  that  route  as  it 
was  the  only  water  within  60  miles,  on  the  route )  hero 
we  oveitook  sergeant  Belardie  with  the  party  of  dragoons 
from  Senora  and  Biscay,  who  had  left  us  at  fort  Elisiaira, 
where  we  had  received  a  new  escort.  Distance  20  miles. 
QTtb  March,  Friday. — Arrived  at  Carracal,  at  twelve 
o'clock.  Distance  28  miles ;  the  road  well  watered  and 
he  situation  pleasant.  The  father-in-l^w  of  our  friend, 
commanded  six  or  seven  years  here ;  when  we  arrived  at 
he  fort,  the  commandant,  Don  Pedro  Rues  Saramende 
eived  Robinson  and  myself,  with  a  cold  bow  and  in* 
irmed  Malgares,  that  we  could  repair  to  the  public  quar- 
To  this  Malgares  indignantly  replied,  that  he  should 
:company  us  and  turned  to  go  when  the  commandant 
him  by  the  arm,  made  many  apologies  to  him  and  us, 
we  at  length  reluctantly  entered  his  quarters ;  here 
the  first  time,  I  saw  the  Gazettes  of  Mexico,  which 
e  rumors  of  colonel  Burr's  conspiracies,  the  movements 
our  troops,  &c.  &c.  but  which  were  stated  in  so  vague 
undefined  a  manner,  as  only  to  create  our  anxiety 
out  throwing  any  light  on  the  subject. 
28/^  March,  Saturday. — ^Marched  at  half  past  three 


)ps 


Ki^rchedifock  and  arrived  at  the  Warm  Springs  at  sun  down  \ 
led  one  little  fosse  on  the  route, 
service  ^1  29/i&  March,  Sunday. — Marched  at  ten  o'clock  and 
at  tvbicb  afltinued  our  route,  with  but  a  short  halt,  until  sun  down  j 
lart  of  ^^^*  W^Q  encamped  without  water.    Distance  30 miles. 


!t 


.■      !■ 


3S6 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE 


/• 


tbi 

apj 
ten 
seat 


30th  Manh,  Monday, — ^Marched  before  seven 
o'clock,  the  front  arrived  at  water,  at  eleven  o'clock ;  the 
mules  at  twelve.  The  spring  on  the  srde  of  the  mountain 
to  the  east  of  the  road,  a  beautiful  situation,  I  here  saw 
the  first  ash  timber,  I  observed  in  the  country.  This  water 
is  52  miles  from  the  Warm  Springs.  Yesterday  and  to- 
day,  saw  Cabrie,  marched  fifteen  miles  further  and  en- 
camped,  without  wood  or  water  j  passed  two  other  small 
springs  to  the  east  of  the  road. 

31  st  March,  Tuesday, — ^Marched  early  and  arrived 
at  an  excellent  spring  at  ten  o'clock-  The  roads  from 
Sencra,  Tanos  and  Buenaventura,  &c.  joins  about  400 
yards,  before  you  arrive  at  the  spring. 

Arrived  at  the  village  of  — —  at  night,  a  large  | 
and  elegant  house,  for  the  country ;  here  were  various 
labors  carried  on  by  criminals  in  irons. 

We  here  met  with  a  Catalonian,  who  was  but  a  ^hort 
time  from  Spain,  and  whose  dialect  was  such  that  he 
could  scarcely  be  understood  by  Malgares,  and  whose  man.j 
ners  were  much  more  like  those  of  a  citizen  of  oi 
western  frontiers,  than  of  a  subject  of  a  despotic  prince. 

1^/  Jpril,  Wednesday. — In  the  morning  Malgares 
patched  a  courier,  with  a  letter  to  the  commandant  genei 
Salcedo  to  inform  him  of  our  approach  and  also  one  to 
father  in  law. 

9d  April,  Thursday, — ^When  we  arrived  at  Chih' 
ijua,  we  pursued  our  course  through  the  town  to  thehouB  school  a 
of  the  general.     I  was  much  astonished  to  see  with  wB  employe 
anxiety  Malgares  anticipated  the  meeting  with  his  milii 
chief;  after  having  been  on  the  most  arduous  and  eni 
prizing  expedition,  ever  undertaken  by  any  of  his  majesi 
officers  from  these  provinces  and  having  executed  it 
equal  spirit  and  judgment,  yet  was  he  fearful  of  his  meefwas  reieva 
him,  with  an  eye  of  displeasure ;  and  appeared  to  be  ijBicfe,  and  \ 


(( 


on 


who  1 

is  a  na 
mothet 
equaijy 


on  the  F 
in  the  y, 
'"'m  to  as 
me  to  exf 


before  seven 
m  o'clock ;  the 
f  the  mountain 
in,  I  here  saw 
try.  This  water 
esterday  and  to- 
Further  and  en- 
two  other  small 

arly  and  arrived 
The  roads  from 
joins  about  400 


:e 


at  night,  a  large 
jre  were  various 


ho  was  bat  a  ^hortl 

ras   such  that  hel 

s,  and  whose  tnanJ 

a  citizen  of  or 

despotic  prince. 

lingMalgaresdi 

nmandant  genei 

ind  also  one  to  I 


more  agitated  than  ourselves  al,h„    .. 

I«^  »  have  also  had  ot  ^   ^«''  "'  '^7  be  sup. 

"W»  man  depe«ied  Zht^T^'  "  °"  *e  will«rf 

countnr  could  interfere  in  our  t^^^'n  '"^  """''  °" 
the  general's,  we  were  halted  in  thi  h,l.  ^  °"  ""^  « 
fl  word  was  sent  tb  the  JZT,^  *"  <>f  *e  guarf,  „„. 
g-s  was  fet  intreduT^  l!"  ^"^  "^en^Mal. 
■"g  wWch  a  Frenchma^t^"? '^'^  '^  '^'  «•-- 

mtoconversation  with  us,  butl^s^  fr      "^T?^  *»  "'o' 
«  we  conceived  he  was  onll  °"™^«««' silence 

g^'-es  at  last  came  ouT^tkS""'"*°"'^  W-  Mal- 
*«genenl  sittingat  Wslesf  tw' '°  '^''■"-    ^«'>»<' 
apparently  about  fifty  fi^'Z^H'^  "  »"d<«e  sized  man, 
'enance,  but  he  receiVed  ml^  •   T'  "^^  "  ^"^  ™<>n 
-'  =  he  then  ot^^Z^ZTr  ""  '^°"«« «°  » 
"  a  great  deal  of  trouble."  *■"*"  ""  '^l  y°»«elf 

Captain  Pike     **  O  v^ 

«  on  that  of  the  Spanish^!!^  ""^^f^  "^"gK  and 

w-o  wa^  then  o:.e.S'  rJ^mt'Tr''"^*"-'" 
.«•  i  which  being  do„,,  ,  li^LanTj^;:"  ""^  '"""e'" 
«  a  native  of  New  Orleans  w^f^  talker  came  in,  who 
«her  a  French  worn T^d  f 'k  ™  ^g^man,  his 
dually  well,  also  2sS^'°^»  ^  «hose  languages 
dragoon,  in  the  Spanish  s^~"  ^  "^  "  "'"'»»«  of 
"chool  at  ChihuahT    S''!;^'''»»'«'of  themih-tary    , 


hV 


f  town  to  the  ho|  school  at  Chihuahua     TiS  "*^^^'*  ""^  ^^^  "»'^*fary 

to  see  with  >»■  employed  by  Mr.  An'drew  Ell^^  ^^"""^  gentleman  was 

with  hismili|onthe  Florida  line  between  thl  T  '  'V  j^'P^X  surveyoi 

iuous  and  ent   «  the  year.  '97  and  '98.     GeneTl  q  ,    f '  ""^  ^P^"^ 

ay  of  his  majest  tarn  tn  a^c'e* -•_...        '^cuerai  oalcedo  thpn  a^u^j 

executed  it  ^ 

•ful  of  his  mee  .  .-„  .^cvanr  ro  tne  exnpHih-««  u  '"^  ^"Hceived 

.red  .0  be  .  .e,  and  those  whichS^  ^S  tt^^; Z  ^ 


/ 


2i$ 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE 


m^:# 


other ;  the  ivhoie  cither  passing  through  fh^  hands  of  the 
geilferal  at  Walker,  except  a  few  letters  from  my  ladyj 
which  xm  my  taking  up  and  saying  they  \^ere  letters  from 
i  lady,  the  general  gavd  a  proof,  that  if  the  ancient  Spa^ 
n&h  bravery  had  degenerated  in  the  nation  generally,  thdr 
gallantry  still  existed,  by  bowing,  aiid  I  put  them  in  my 
pocket*     He  thdn  informed  me  that  he  would  examine 
the  papels,  but  that  in  the  mean  while  he  wished  me  to 
tiOkt  om  Mid  present  to  him  a  ihort  sketch  of  my  voy. 
age,*  which  might  probably  be  satisfactory.  This  I  would 
hkif^  pOsitiVdy  reused,  h^  I  had  an  idea  that  it  was  his 
d^^i^minadoh  to  keep  the  papers,  which  I  could  not  at  tha^ 
tim^  c6jfteeiv«,  from  the  urbamty  and  sadsfaction  which  he 
fcj^ieif ed  to  exhibit  on  the  event  of  our  interview.    He  then 
told  me  thit  I  woukt  fakeup  my  quarters  with  Waiker,i^  or. 
der  (as  he  said)  to  be  better  accommodated  by  having  a  per- 
^Oii  wkh  Me  who  spoke  the  English  iiuiguage ;  but  the  ob- 
ject as  I  sntpected^  wto  for  him  to  be  a  spy  on  our  actions, 
and  on  those  who  visited  US.     Robinson  all  this  time  had 
been  standing  in  the  guard  room,  boiling  with  indignation 
ttt  being  so  loAg  detained  thin,  subject  to  the  observations 
of  the  soldiery  and  gaping  curiosity  of  the  vulgar.    He 
"^ts  tiow  introdu<3ed  by  some  mistake  of  one  of  the  aid-de- 
tamps.    He  appeared  and  made  a  slight  bow  to  the  gene* 
ti\i  who  demanded  of  Malgares  who  he  was  P  He  replied 
i  doctor  who  dccompanisd  the  expedition.    *'  Let  him  re 
**  tire,"  said  the  governor,  and  he  went  out.    The  gene* 
ral  theft  invite  1  me  to  return  and  dine  with  him,  and  weloiet  the  v 
went  to  the  quarters  of  Walker,  where  we  reteived  seVerallduced  us, 
Hiffefent  invitations  to  take  quarters  at  houses  where  w«i*  iittle  #« 
might  be  better  Accommodated,  but  understanding  that  thclt;^  jinT  ^ 
general  had  designated  our  quarters  we  were  silent.        m'^hdies 

We  returned  to  dine  at  the  palace,  where  we  meft  the  cap 
Malgares,  wlio,  with  ourselves,  was  the  only  guest,    ^vfefgeurit, 

•  See  Appendix  to  Part  III.  [No.  13.]  page  73. 


C 

b( 

ga 

tar 

?nc 

evej 


tad  at  the  table  the  twwurer  r     •«•  '■ 

our  voyage  for  the  gsneralZ?™^      ?*"*  ^  «*»'«*  ^f 

S^-^  «d  Bon  Manuel  ZuW  '"^„^*«'^-»rb*  t^JW, 
t-y's  office,  to  whom  I  m^'^'^of  *'"»cre- 

evening.  ,"**^™^    Visited  his  hoi«ei,,he 

."ere  two  officers,  who  J„  finf^i*"  *'*'*»'  »»«* 
informed  had  been  the  ^ZtZ^'"!^  *»"  I«« 
"h«  were  «o,JdeH„^  SjZ!  '"™''*»  P«vhu», 
aphysicianitthis riZtv-sCnffTl.*  ■** "^«  *«  "o 
•"-  i  but  after  rep^t^d^^  ^''''r^  «»!«  «»  «M» 
!»»'•.    Thfa»hewa(he^fo^f,'»j«"'»  *em  «p  to 
«»»<»  in  the  provides.  Sr^^  f*"  "fa*  medical 

*  »  very  po,i,e  ^ge  froS^^  "^T"'  ^*''^> 

„u.c  6— ■  »»°ey.  &c.  for  wiuch  I  remit?        '^'^ "^"^^ance, 
?  He  repUeal  to  gen^,. .  Accpi^p^^^^f  7  "'P^'^  Aanka  t„ 
'  Let  himre-i  where  we  found  the  a«•«.^.^^*^  *°  «lie piiMc nojfc 
...    The  gen.!  »d  pdier  officer  of  ^S„r^J*«^'  ^-^ga 
,  him,  and  ml«et  the  wife  ^.        fe,**^""-      We.h.^  Uke^i, 
eceived8eVeri|J"cedu».    8hewaaJil»»|i.rV*'''*" '«'""»  ^mt«*. 
.ses  where  .f  We,„  W;^„.  brZt^'**'t:*^'^Sp«, 
andmg  that  thl>)»  to  a  superior  d«BW  '^^T*'  *•  »»n6nal  beauty  of 
re  silent.        I«f  fadies,  anK)ng«Xm  ,we«1^„^TJ'  '^  *°««^'''''n 
where  *e  m  »  'h^^apital-^no^.j^f    .     3°***"^^ 

ay  guest.    H  ^'^--eVal,oi,..heo„wrL£^Ji^'JS^ 


tands  Off  tW 
A  my  ladyt 
letters  from 
indent  Spa« 
lerally^thielr 
[hem  in  my 
Id  examine 
ished  me  to 
of  my  voy- 
rhis  1  would 
at  it  was  his 
Id  not  at  tha^ 
ion  which  he 
jw.    He  then 
iAraikeif,nior. 
having  a  per- 
*  but  the  ob- 
n  our  actions, 
this  tiirie  had 
:h  indignation 
e  observations 
vulgar.    He 
I  of  the  aid-de. 
w  to  the  genc' 
,s 

(C 


.-ft:; 


)f:; 


240 


^  lOkJoURNAL  OF  A  V6VA<iE 


u 


ficeat,  andtheb^  bu^bandi  geiiefosity  enough  to  allow 
them  to  think  themselves  rational  beings,  to  be  treated  on 
an  equality,  to  receive  the  vi^ts  of  t^eir  friends^^  and  give 
way  to  the  hospitality  of  their  dispositions  without,  con- 
straint: thfey  were  consequently  the  ^nvy  of  the  ladies, 
and  the  subject  of  scandal  to  prudes  ;  their  houses  were 
the  rendezvous  of  all  thij  fashionable  liiale  society ;  and 
e\ery  man  who  was  conipir-ious  for  science,  arts  or  arms, 
was  sure  to  medt  a  Welcome.  We,  as  unfortunate  Strang, 
ers,  were  consequently  not  forgotten*  I  returned  with 
Malgares  i:o  the  house  of  <iiis  father^n.law,  lieutenant  co- 
lonel Mayner,nwho  was  originally  from v  Cadiz,  a  man  (jf 
good  iiifprmation.' 

6/j&^;»W/i  i\f^o«^/j7*'*— Dined  wit^rrthejgeneral.  "Wri- 
ting, &c.  Ia<:die  evening;  visited  Malgaires  and  ^ifi^ 
cretary*    •':■   n-vi-;  '.-.1       ^u.,  :    :..J;;',;-  .t  •^^   .  --4. 

Afteridiiiner  >wine  was  set  on  the  table,  and  we  Iwere 
entertained  witljD,  scu^s  in/ the  French,  Italian,  Spanish  :aiid 
English  latigua^68;  Accustomed ^  ixsi  was  Jto  sitting  sbme 
time  after  dinner^I  fbrgottbeir  siesta^  (^or  fepbse  after  din- 
ner) until  Walkte  suggested  the-  t^gtOr  me,  when  we 
retired;    ..:^.  ;>:ioU,  ■        ■]'.  y:c:i\  ry^ii-:;;^'M-^    .jiUi'r  yr  :v  /,  ri;'. 

lib  Aprily  Tuesdiny.T^'DineA'  at  Dost  Antonio  Caberai- 
ri's,  in  company  with  Viilamil^  Zuloaga,/.  Wiiiker,  &c..m. 
Sent  in  a  sketch  of  my  vovagd  to  the  general.  Spent  the 
evening  at  coltinel  Mayoer's  with  Malgares. 

8th  J frU,  Wednesday, — 'Yiiitedithe  treasurer,  who 
showed  me  thbdoubl&^bajTelg^ni  given  by  governor  Ciai 
borne,  <mdLahother  formerly  thepro^ty  of. Nolan;  b 

;  9th  ApriU'  Ihursddyj'^ln  the  eVenijog  was  informei 
that  David  F^0  was  in  town  and  wtsli^  to  speak;  tome, 
This  man  had  formerly  been  ray; father's  ensign,  andw: 
taken  with  Nolitn'sparty  attheitime  the  latter  was  killedj 
He  possessed  a  brave  soul,  and  had  withstood  evfjry  o\ 


foi 

file 

oft 

coin 

d/er, 

seen 

ofdej 

tinieni 

C 

tfein/i 

many  c 

(keacte 

\trj  witht 

job%erd  t 

m  quart( 

fy  purse, 

10th 

fexas,  wh( 
kddtocht 

^gares| 

f^e  Vaii, 

secretary 

12th  ^ 

^\  Ajitoni( 

%  at  tic 

^^thApi 

|3ftemoon , 
^5th  4p, 


:^- 


TflHOUOH  THP  IX.,,- 
predion.-       .  "^^"'O*  PROVINCES  <. 

countryman  L,^    ".  ^"^  measure  ciLh    ^'"''"'ge 
of  delicacy  ?  n'  "^^^  *«  Werview  fr!l       *"'='' '°' 

^•-/my^:i\,^'*''''-'^--v.'Ti,re;;tr 

Jtiy  without  the  a„fj,    •       *^'' ^av«iff  entPr«w    T      ""^ 

l>7/»r«  afforded  nJ  u       ^'''  ^d  jeave  ».°-!     .  *' 
I     ]Q»A  J    ,'*"'''« my *«-7wj-  ®^     ""^  what 

h-    ^V-^^Roirij^i'^^^^^^Ag  at  colon,,  j^ 

r  ^^^"^  •  'j^-e  we  dranlc  r     ^       '^^  ^ouseof  one 
^secretaiy  Vi,ja^.|^       '^^k  1-ondon  Porter.     vj!l 

h'°-^''-S';;^f^  ^''"'' *e  doctor)  at 

K«*e  public  .:,L"*  °"-'»'«"-s.TV;" 

I  2 1'^t  ^"'"^•'-Nothing  «t«„  .• 
feT  at  Don  M^'^^°?'^^^n^ng, 

•:  ^Hh'^'"'**^''«"»gatcoW 


\ 


243 


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im' 


<r^i^ 


>:M-    ">■.. 


tm 


imimii  fi 


<c 


« 


ma 


« 


wasi 
social 


(( 


Maynor*s  with  our  friend  Malgares.  Wrote  a  letter  to  go:, 
vernor  Salcedo  on  the  subject  of  my  papers.* 

\%ih  Aprils  Thursday, — Spent  the  evening  at  the  $6^ 
cretary's  Don  VHlamil's.  . 

1 1th  Aprils  Ffiday.-Sent  my  letter  to  his  excelkncy. 
Spent  the  evening  xnkh  my  friend  Malgares. 

ISth  April,  6a/Mr^d[y.— Spent  the  evening  at  ('  ibera. 
rie'sj  &c.     Wrote  to  governor  Allenrafiter, 

I9th  April,  Sunday. — In  the  evening  at  a  Fandaugo. 

20th  April,  Monday, — We  this  d^y  learned  that  an 
American  officer  had  gone  on  to  the  city  of  M  exico.     This 
was  an  en'gina  to  us  inexplicable,  as  we  conciived  thatthn 
jealousy  of  he  Spanish  government  would  liave  preverf^ed 
any  foreign  ofHci-^'  horn  penetrating  the  country  j  aiid 
what  the  Ujiit\  <!  States  could  send  an  authorised  agei^t  to 
the  vice  royali  j,  when  ihe  Spanish  gcvernment  had  at  the 
seat  of  our  government  a  charge  des  afifairs,  served  but  to 
darken  the  conjectures.     The  person  alluded  t:>  was  Mr. 
Burling,  a  citizen  of  Mississippi  Territory,  whose  mission 
is  now  well  known  to  the  government.    We  likewise  »] 
ceived  an  account  of  a  commercial  treaty  having  been 
tered  into  between  Great  Britain  and  the  United  Stati 
which  by  the  Dons  was  only  considered  as  thepreli 
step  to  an  alliance  biFensive  and  defensive.be£ween  the 
nations.  l^  >  ^ 

21  St,  April,  Tuesday. — ^Presented  the  comman 
^neral  with  a  letter  for  general  Wilkinson,  which  he 
mised  to  have  forwarded  to  the  governor  of  Texas. 

22d  April,  Wednesday.-— S]^t  the  day  in  reading 
studying  Spanish ;  the  eveiiing  at  captain  Villamirs.    mpreach' 

•  23d  April,  Thursdayi— Dined  at  Don  Pedro  vl^  ^^    '"^ 
lois ;  the  evening  with  colonel  Maynor ;  bid  him  adieuly/j^  j      ^ 


I 

P 
hi 


Vt 


*  See  Appendix  to  Part  III.  [No.  14-]  page  ^i. 


See  i 


■}   I'M!-:-;  . 

li  '  !■'    W     '    '.t 
.1    fk'f^-    '■■>    '  '■ 


fte  was  to  march  f ho  «       .    '  '''^^ES,  Stc.   1843 

P^«  were  to  be  detained,  rivwT^'lt"^»  ««  my  pa- 
*««,  contents.  &c.  &c.*  ^     ^    ''^^*^  °fAeirkZ. 
^4fth  April    Fr'^ 

^^  -"'^reUtionf'A'SrnH'  "'"'"^  «  Z„,o. 
50-  ■'..  ,ent  called  upon  m,  "  !■  ^°^'"'  "^cerof  the 
:  -;«nent  had  been'^fo^';,"^.'.  '<"«  ™e  *a,  the  ^ 

; 'oceft^.  Robinson  and Tytltr^r^''''"'' '»  »« 
■Mxrms  and  principles  7^h  v'"'"'''  &'*  political 

:-«  genenUly  .^^^^^  "^'"''  '  ""'t  be  con. 

■  A r .^  *'  "•^'^on  o^a  i  *°'"1 '»  »  very  few 

„  '^  no  uncommon  thin,  ffe  j^*?  ?^''  "^'^^  ^  that  i 
I    ««ated)  to  hear  the  comS.       '^  "  ''^'''  *^  as- 
™  and  monarchical  go"Sl2'':?"°P'^'''^"«PubK. 
•' the  allegiance  due C«f2^*  discussed;  and  even 
:  --iied  in  question  /LSr'f  ^""^  ">  ^^e^^n 
I   »on  had  indulged  ;he,:i°^\t"^«e«  of  co„s,-de„" 
y«'*»««..r.„„,,rf„^^^^»''ose  conversations, «// 
i"a»  It  respected  myself  J!^  '"*'"""*  6^/ but  that 

t«ae,celle„cy,K2;-^on.it.a's'theS 
r  would  not  hold  forth  anv        ™*'°™™o'M  of  Spain  w^ 
■f-on  thesubject^f  .^^^orf "'  '^"^''-^  ^- 
«  wasjrue  I  had  held  various  a^r^''     '  '^'W'  ^t 
Ae subjects  complained  oTbur^f'''"  ?°»v«"a'ions  on 
office  who  might  be  sup^'^^  !"*  '"^"  ««'"  » 
*e  kmg,  and  partial^  the^v  J        """'>'  "f^h"!  to 
Kt  I  had  never  gone  amoCT""  °'  '"^^  """"'H'" 
^eaclung  up  republicanismT^  frl  '^''  '«''  '"'■'^"Z  , 

N  to  the  cathohc  religion  I L     .   8°"^™"™'.  That 

ktIcoaceivedtob?T^'£S"'"'^"^^~  I 

I  "'^"'''offnias;  butthati  f 


ti 


i':  * 


JOURNAL  QV  A  yOYAGIi 


*^  h^d  spdcen  of  it  in  all  instances  as  a  resectable  branch 
«  of  the  Christian  religion,  which  as  well  as  all  others, 
«  was  toK'rated  in  the  United  States;  but  that,  had  I  came 
**  to  that  kingdom  in  a  diplomatic  character,  delicacy  to- 
**  wards  the  government  would  have  sealed  my  lips.  Had 
"  I  been  a  prisoner  of  war,  personal  safety  might  have 
'*  had  the  same  effect ;  but  being  there  in  the  capacity 
*'  which  I  was ;  not  voluntarily,  .but  by  coercion  of  the 
**  Spanish  government,  but,  who,  at  the  same  time  had  of. 
"  ficially  notified  me  that  they  did  not  consider  me  under 
*'  any  restraint  «;^<i/^tA?rv— tlierefore,  when  called  on, 
^'  should  always  give  my  opinions  freely,  either  as  to  poll. 
^'  tics  or  religion ;  but  at  the  same  time  with  urbanit)',  and 
"  a  proper  respect  to  the  legitimate  authorities  of  the  coun- 
"  try  where  I  was."  i 

He  replied,  "  Well  you  may  then  rest  assured  your  I 
*«  conduct  will  be  represented  in  no  very  favorable  point] 
*'  of  view  to  your  government." 

I  replied,  "  To  my  governnient  I  am  certainly  n\ 
"  sponsible,  and  to  no  other."     He  then  left  me,  and  I 
immediately  waited  on  some  of  my  friends  and  noti£ 
them  of  the  threat,  at  which  they  appeared  much  alarm^ 
and  we  went  immediately  to  consult      ■         who,  to  gre 
{attachment  to  his  friends,  joined  the  most  incorr>>pti1 
Royalty  and  the  confidence  of  the  government.     Our  o 
isultation  ended  in  a  determination  only  to  be  silent 
watch  events. 

We  suspected to  be  the  informant,  but  'wBiifceuJ      \ 

ther  just  in  our  suspicion  or  not,  I  will  lot  pr^etend  to  A  w}^rh 
termine,  for  Robinson  and  myself  frequently  used  to  hJ    27  ^    • 
conversations  in  his  presence  purposely  to  have  them  coimtsfQ         ^ 
municated ;  but  he  at  last  discovered  our  intentions,  >e  menti 
told  us,  that  if  we  calculated  on  making  him  a  carrier 
news,  we  were  mistaken  j  that  he  despised  it. 


re 


\h 


A-  o'c/ock  received  a  Z^t  ^.  °Wg««  =  ^ 

I  "W,  and  predated  him  t^^  "  *'"^«>»S  vhich 
candidly  info^^  „^  ™°  «""  »  Jetter..    He  Aen  ate 

l^r^ry  of  Ae ki„g  ofsXtuT*  .  T  ^'^^T. 
'""ded  ,0  pMctually,  andTo^!,A^"  '^'^  «'«'»'''  <»  at- 
"«'  but  '«que«edAatVS"'°"'"™«&'e'y after. 
S™t  to  deliver  up  a*  his  It!    '^.«''«  •'"'«'  tomy  ser. 

~  of  the  ho^::  oTwlTlTer;  "^^  *''~»^  » '•'■^ 
-l^ly.  « that  wh  respect  tol    ^  '''"«*•    ^  """ted  m 
order,  to  my  sergeS^  o  d  trrT.™*'"' '  -""  g*- 
"possessed,  more  than  was  nl     '^''^''™»nded)all  Aer 
"  but  that  a,  to  the  h^rsT  ,  f  "^'^ '°  «"  ^''ir  "oW^ 
/'chatge which  mustSiXf""*  **'°»  «^a 
.-nents.  therefore  should  Svtt"!?  *'  •^°K°^^- 
'"gthem    except  as  to  ^'7*^"°"^  '«?«'-      ' 
t   ng  as  they  were  able  to  S^."""  ""  =«  ^^  and  as 
n"""  to  dine  with  him  onlhr™         *™  8»^*  »«  an 

f-oung  went  to  MalgaVes   Zuf,    .  ^^*^'^    In4e 
I'pyserge^t  and rioT'toSl^"  others.  Wr«e 

W'"-.  and  to  the  other  16,  dol£T/"''°"' '  »««  '^ 
W-es  for  the  party.  We  hadh  /^'  *°  P"<=base 
»»us  that  the  doctor  was  toT.^        ^"^  """^  "''"e  sua.  - 

"fcwise  obtained  peT^s^o^^f  """^'''  <>«  'tis  evemn^ 

'^forourdeparture^';*:^  """^gartang. 
^  mention  some  few  ^S'irr!!!!:/^ 


-^.r  -1 


?'? 


i'  '*  i 


.:lfci'! ,-..!!, 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOY  .Gt 

^e  came  to  rhe  c.<y  ^'  **"' '°  V^  „  guests  ha*g  not 
the  general)  and  ^■^''^'^^/"it.d  U  boaM,  know- 
,he  las.  idea  thatweshouWbe  j^^8  ^^^  ^^^,^ 

i„g  «ith*hat  pleasure  my  Am^^^  dwatedaswe  v^, 
Z  entertain  a  foreignbrother  ^^^'  ,„  b,  offered 

paynnder  'W>" ^^r^^esented  to  me  an  accoaiu 
Uen  there  about  --^^^^f^^^,  .„d  begged  if  tk 
fo,  Robinson's  ff^^^^ZU  say  I  had  pai^  • 

general  enqmred  of  me,  «"»  ^   ,Wng  origmatedi 

Unaturallyledmeto^dhow^  K^^^^^^^^ 

he  with  considerable  e^^-^"  ,i,,.  he  though, 

rieen  theliberly  to  f  ™*^°ll„ce,inordertobe«. 

hesho„ldbeaHo«eianex«aa  T-hegenerall» 

bledtotreatuswithsomelitilem  ^  j^^^  ^^jp„j 

into  a  m.»t  vWentpaBS|on  =mdd^m»d^       ^^^^^  ^^^^  | 

Hmforourboard?to  wh^  «J  °*^5„J^,,  ,o  demand |j«edh« 

expect  pay  of  ud.    He  "■"d'^"-"  ,  j     ^  i„  his  hands;|»«h  him, 

pay,toreceiv'it,sign  a  "'^^P^"'* 'f|i„g  «as done,b«|u«bordii 

Sadded,  he  would  consult  me     J^^'sf^^ay  after  thJ^«^«/. 

which heneverdid,yetltookcareeven     ^^^  ^„,,|, confess. 

,0  deposit  in  the  hands  of  W;^»--„    Malpfipolidc 

^dered  the  P'^'!"''"  ^"^Sh  officers  having  hea*™ca..on 

re.  and  several  other  of  ^^^^^^^rtaed-sayl-g-  *#"!  ».  * 

ofthething,  waited  on  "^"^f  J^t^toed  ushadnot^ch  m  , 

■      ^hat  pleasure  they  would  Mve  en«  ^„  ^„  ,^„^  p„„< 

designarion  of  the  6™f 'P"'^"*    ro,  (the  only  om 
•,ect--had  living  with  h.m  »  ""  "^  J  ^^e  property  (_        ^  - 
:::  on  .h^  side  of  St  M^omo)  who  -  th  J  ^^       ^^^ 
^™e  person  who  resided  ^.arN=^.^^^„,  ^^  .„ 

^ken  with  iNolan.    «=>^S^Xnd  obtained  permi^o  dock. 
the  WBssissippi  country,  ^ohcted  ana 


'       Mi 


mmmmm 


ider  of 

ntig  not 

1,  know- 

li  receive 

we  were, 

3e  offered 

jgx  we  had 

li  account 

gged  if  Ac 

[lad  p»^  i^- 

origina*^'» 
that  be  bad 

tthethoM^b 

^ertobeena- 

e  general  fle« 

hadnoi?ai4 
no,bedidnotl 


elyto 


dema^i 


m  his  hands', 
wasdone,bul| 
iday  after  th3t,l 
;.hich  vmscofr 


^yse: 


ilf.    Mai 


hea 


havmg 

^— saying* 
us  had  not  I 


viit 


witt  on 


thesttl 


one 


(the  only 
the  property 


who 


had 


Inted  xvitb  him 
lined  permissi' 


THROUGH  THE  INTERIOR  PROVINCES.  8cc.     547 

for  old  Csesar  to  live  with  him.  I  found  him  very  com- 
municative and  extremely  useful.  The  day.  I  arrived, 
when  we  were  left  alone  he  came  in,  and  looked  around  at 
the  walls  of  the  room  and  exclaimed,  "  What !  all  gone." 
I  demanded  an  explanation,  and  he  informed  me  that  the 
maps  of  the  different  provinces  as  taken  by  and 
other  surveyors,  had  been  hung  up  against  the  walls,  but 
the  day  we  arrived  they  had  all  been  taken  do<wn  and  de- 
posited in  a  closet  which  he  designated.  W—  gave  various 
reasons  for  his  liaving  left  the  United  States  and  joined  the 
Spanish  service ;  one  of  which  was,  his  father  having  been' 
ill-treated  as  he  conceived  by  G.  at  Natchez.  At  Chihua- 
hua he  had  charge  of  the  military  school,  which  con- 
sisted of  about  15  young  men  of  the  first  fanulies  of  the 
provinces ;  also  of  the  public  water- works  of  the  city,  on 
a  plan  devised  by  the  royal  engineer  of  Mexico ;  of  the 
buildmg  of  a  new  church ;  of  the  casting  of  small  artillery,' 
fabrication  of  arms,  &c.  &c.  Thus,  though  be  had  ten- 
dered his  resignation,  they  knew  his  value  toq  W^U  to  pait' 
with  him,  and  would  not  accept  of  it,  but  still  kept  him  in 
i  subordinate  station,  in  order  that  he  might  be  the  more 
dependant  and  the  more  usefuL  And  although  he  candid- 
confessed  his  disgust  to  their  service,  manners,  m(M-als, 
political  establishments,  yet,  he  never  made  a  com- 
iunication  to  us  which  he  was  bound  in  honor  to  conceal ; 
ut  on  the  contrary  fulfilled  the  station  of  informer, 
ch  in  that  country  is  considered  no  disgrace,  with 
at  punctuality  and  fidelity.  In  this  city  the  pro- 
b  was  literally  true,  that  "  the  walls  had  ears,"  for 
ere  was  scarcely  any  thing  could  pass  that  his  excellency 
not  know  in  a  few  hours  after.  In  the  evening  I  was; 
tified  to  be  ready  to  march  the  next  day  at  three 
[dock.  '■  ^ 


9a 


JOUMNAL  OF  A  VOYAOli 


'M  ,''l 


'  I  i 


2Btk  Aprils  Tuesday.'^ln  the  morning  Malgares 
waited  on  ut,  and  informed  us  he  was  to  accompa!:/  ^ip 
some  distance  on  the  route.  After  bidding  adieu  t )  ili 
our  friends,  marched  at  a  quarter  past  three  o'clock,  and 
encamped  at  nine  o'clock  at  night  at  a  spring-*4tony^ 
Raised  near  Chihuahua  a  small  ridge  of  mountains,  and 
there  encamped  in  a  hollow. 

This  day  as  we  were  riding  along,  Malgares  rode  up 
to  me  and  informed  me  that  the  general  had  given  orders 
that  I  should  not  be  permitted  to  make  any  astronomical 
observatioiMl.  To  this  I  replied,  that  he  well  knew  I  never 
had  attempted  making  any  since  I  was  conducted  into  the 
Spanish  dominions.  i^ 

ii9tb  April  J  Wednesday.-— ArnyeA  at  a  settlement  at 
eight  o'clock — ^plenty  of  milk,  &c.    When  about  to  ma]# 
my  journal,  Malgares  changed  color,  and  informed  ^m^  ir 
was  his  orders  I  should  not  take  notes,  but  added,  you  have 
a  good  meiBtory,  and  when  you  get  to  Cogquilla  you  can 
bring  it  all  up.     At  first  I  felt  considerably  indignaikt^aiid  \ 
was  on  the  point  of  refusing  tcr  comply ;  but  thinkmg  for  H  ■ 
a  moment  of  the  many  politenesses  I  had  receiyed  fromp 
his  hands,  induced  me  merely  to  bow  assent  with  a  smiiet,! 
and  we  proceeded  on  our  route,  but  had  not  proceeded] 
bx  before  I  made  a  pretext  to  halt— «stablished  my  boy : 
a  vedet,  and  sat  down  peaceably  under  a  bush  and 
my  notes,  &c.    This  course  I:  pursued  ever  after,  no 
without  some  very  ccmsiderabk  degree  of  trouble  to  sep 
rate  myself  from  the  party. 

Arrived  at  the  fort  of  St.  Pa^l  at  eleven  o^clock, 
tuated  on  a  small  river  of  the  same  name,  the  course  i 
which  is  north-east  by  south-west.     At  the  time  we  we 
there  the  river  was  not  wider  than  a  mill  stream,  but  somej 
times  it  is  three  hundred  yards  wide  and  impassable, 
tance  SO  miles. 


'T  ', 


tng  M?ttgaie& 
iccompair/  up 
kg  adieu  t ;  \\[ 
t  o'clock,  and 
!ing'-**stony-M 
lountains,  and 

Iganreft  rode  up 
I  given  orders 
f  astronomical 
I  knew  I  never 
uctedinto  the 

a  settlement  at 
about  to  mal# 
nibrmed  ,meit 
dded,  you  have 
^quilla  you  can 
indigRailt,aiul 
ut  thinkmg  for 
L  recdyed  from 
It  with  a  smiie^ 
not  proceeded 
jhed  my  boy 
bush  and 
ever  after,  m 
trouble  to  se 


THROUGH  THI.*    txr* 

-  eleven  amCed'aft'fc'^f'"'  "  "'  '''^"^^  '"d 
ten  0  clock.  *»  "km  very  wk  at  half  p^ 

■Arrived  at  nieht 
'«"»,  garrisoned  by.  l!""*"  '*"^'>"  "•  the  river  Con' 
Concjo.  ««een  ^^.^'^  ^^en  .e„  f.„  I^^^ 

•eW  .hefc^erriver  '!ru  ■  "  '''g^^'ro^  whe« 
"^  ten  miles  ud  thf^  pi      ,  *    ^  ^^^  condu^n^^ 

i   •'-  in  ,he  barrelsT    e  r  """=''-'-  and  .„ 

lM«er  hours  arrived  at  C  '"■'>''  ""d  «  four,„^ 

I  ^.  ^^^"^  fend  Ma/, 


'*    i 


250 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE 


tl'.M 


f       '' 


I      t 


1 


'A 


•      u 


gares  for  captain  Barelo>  who  was  a  Mexican  by  birth, 
bom  near  the  capital,  and  entered  as  a  cadet  at  GuaxequiUo 
near  twenty  years  past,  and  by  his  extraordinary  merits 
(being  a  Creolian)  bad  been  promoted  to  a  captain,  which 
was  even  by  himself  considered  as  his  ultimate  promotion. 
He  was  a  gentleman  in  his  manners-^generous  and  frank; 
and  I  believe  a  good  soldier. 

3d  May,  Sunday. — At  Guajrequillo  the  captain  gave 
up  his  command  to  Malgares.  At  night  the  officers  gave 
a  ball,  at  which  appeared  at  least  sixty  women,  ten  or  a 
dozen  of  whom  were  very  handsome. 

4//6  May,  Monday, — ^Don  Hymen  Guloo  arrived  from 
Chihuahua,  accompanied  by  a  citizen  and  the  friar,  who 
had  been  arrested  by  order  of  the  commandant  general, 
and  was  on  his  way  to  Mexico  for  trial. 

Sth  May,  Tuesday, — ^The  party  marched  with  s^U  the 
spare  horses  and  bagga(^e. 

Sth   May,  Wednesday.'— Mzxched  at  five  o'clock; 
ascended  tlie  river  four  miles,  when  we  left  it  to  our  right 
and  took  off  south  60°,  east  eight  miles.     Our  friend 
Malgares    accompanied   us  a  few  miles,  to  whom  ve 
bad  an  eternal  adieu,  if  war  does  not  bring  us  togetherl  ^j^re/i 
in  the  field  of  battle  opposed  as  the  most  deadly  enemies, 
when  our  hearts  acknowledge  the  greatest  friendship, 
Halted  at  ten  o'clock,  and  marched  again  at  four.    N( 
water  on  the  road ;  detached  a  Spanish  soldier  in  seari 
of  some,  who  did  not  join  us  until  12  o'clock  at  nigl 
Encamped  in  the  open  prairie  j  no  wood  or  water  exo 
what  the  soldier  brought  us  in  gourds.     The  mules  cai 
up  at  eleven  o'clock  at  night.     Distance  30  miles. 

7//5»  May,  Thursday. — Marched  very  early,  wind  fi 
from  the  south.     The  punctuality  of  captain  Barelo  as 
hours  was  remarkable.     Arrived  at  imU"  past  nine  o'cloftountain 
at  a  spring,  the  first  water  from  GuaxequiUo.    The  muipf.    jy- 


n 

th 
mt 

bai 
imj 
iosii 

ami 

o'clo 

ton] 

this  J 

oated 

Vised  h 

mainec 

/wsand 

receive 

"lidem 

proximi 


'  \' 


led  with  ill  the 


•nountains  on  each  «de  all  dav     iJ^'""'^*  «"«<»  *-- 

*-g'.  a  gap  in  ,he  mou«^''^,!'/'^""'«  «'"«  west, 
more  «,u,h  ,o  a  river  .boTZ^Z"'1,  ^^  ^°^-  »d 
.'»»'=» ;  no«r  dry  e,cepr  ^n  ^k\  '^'^-high  «eep 
«»f«^iWe.  Halted  afs^L 'ILT"? '"^'^"«d 
'""«'  mules.  Marched  atTve  otTt '""  ^'  "»  "•« 
am:  encamped  without  „ata-n,„°'''"='"»^  ,0  „,a^ 

''clock  and  arrived  a,  PehW    *  k  '^'"^"  *>"  =«d  five 
ton  for  a  few  soldiere  bm  •     ^^"^     ™*  "  o-'y  a  stl 
"-  P'ace  are  two  w'   "4:;''"'™""<'«'  h  mini     At 
""^ -•*  -Iphur,  TdXr:^''  -^'""Slyfmpreg. 
"««i  by  the  party  who  are  s.atiolST""'''  '""'««' '°  ^ 
«a.ned  all  day.     Cap,ai„C  '"hi     '"•     "^^  "«  re. 
^  »nd  n.y  men  and  chargS^t   '*°  .'^'^'  '""^'l  ^r 
2"'«'  ordm  <K,m  the  Se^l't «.  '7*er.     Here  he 
*rnmto  Montelovez.CoXl  t      "I  ""•°"«''  "^e 
Prnximate  to  the  fi^nrie^s  of  M    ^       '  ''""'"  "°'  ap. 
P»'»  done  by  the  usual  Zl^[ft"'°' ^^''^  *«  should 

2  diligently  worked.-^  aVS  '"'?"^  '°^^  ""e 
K«X,.heep,  cattle,  hot^^  V'^  P~P™"  had 
K  a  house  built  a„d  ocru'D^H  I  """^  =«  ^^  C*- 
^«f  on  a  small  stream  at  tT        ^  "  P™^''     ''  ^  «- 

^'«^by  the  SpaniardsThe  Doo^  T,y. "''"'  ""-'ains 
1,7  ™"--"ded  with  mou«:^/'  Th      "'™'  '™'"  "^ 
['Sumbraretto,  distant  six  davs  1      t    ""'''P""'''  "^ 
h  obliged  to  futnish  accommL  T"'"'     ^  '"'"»'la 
Marched  at  five  oXanr"'  '°  ""  '"^^"-''^ 
huntains  due  east  12  miles  1h      '''''*''  *^  "^hain  of 
f-    Distance  SI  miles  "''""P«'^^«houtw,.    • 


'■  I 


3S8 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE 


i4m  i^< 


;   w 


u;  ;H//&  May,  Mortday,^-Marched  and  arrived  at  Mau- 
pemc  at  eight  o'clock,  a  village  situated  at  the  foot  of 
mountains  of  minerals,  where  they  worked  eight  or  nine 
mines.  The  mass  of  the  people  were  naked  and  starved 
wretches.  The  proprietor  of  the  mines  gave  us  an  ele- 
gant repast.  Here  the  orders  of  Salcedo  were  explained 
to  me  by  the  captain.  I  replied,  that  they  excited  my 
laughter,  as  there  were  disaffected  persons  sufficient  to 
serve  as  guides  should  an  army  ever  come  into  the 
country. 

Came  on  three  miles  further,  where  were  fig-trees 
and  a  fruit  called  by  the  French  Ld^  Grain,  situated  on  a 
little  stream  which  flowed  through  the  gardens,  and  form- 
ed  a  terrestrial  paradise.  Here  we  remained  all  day  sleep- 
ing in  the  shade  of  the  fig-trees,  and  at  night  continued 
our  residence  in  the  garden.  We  obliged  the  inhabiiants 
with  a  ball,  who  expressed  great  anxiety  for  a  relief  from 
their  present  distressed  state  and  a  change  of  government  Biras  fitst 

:  \2th  May,  Tuesday. — ^Was  awoke  in  the  morning  byBi/cetoy  of 
the  singing  of  the  birds  and  the  perfumes  of  the  treesBy  this  ro 
around.     I  attempted  lo  send  two  of  my  soldiers  to  towi,Bior  20  h 
when  they  were  overtaken  by  a  dragoon  and  ordered  back-ftr,  and  v 
they  returned,  when  I  again  ordered  them  to  go,  and  if  ' 

soldier  attemped  to  stop  them  to.  take  him  off  his  hoi 
and  flog  him.     This  I  did,  as  I  conceived  it  was  the  di 
of  the  captain  to  explain  his  orders  relative  to  me,  whii 
he  had  not  done,  and  I  conceived  that  this  would  bring 
jan  explanation.       They  were  pursued  by  a  drag 
through  the  town,  who  rode  after  them  making  use  ot 
language.    They  attempted  to  catch  him  but  could  niOid  Mqx 
As  I  had  mentioned  my  intentions  of  sending  my  men  I   j^^^ 
town  after  some  stores  to  captain  Barelo,  and  he  hadiisses  Ran* 
made  any  objections,  I  conceived  it  was  acting  with  §,    ^y  l    *' 
plicity  to  send  men  to  watch  the  movements  of  my  messloui-  /j^      ^' 


got 

the 

towi 

escet 

guan 

harnti 

} 

^d  en 

thelitti 

hand  0 

'oad  to 

took,  lei 

only  son 

itely  thri 

ous  for  s 

road  is  can 


ed  at  Mau- 
the  foot  erf 
ght  or  nine 
md  starved 
e  us  an  ele- 
•e  explained 
excited  my 
sufficient  to 
le  into  the 

^ere  fig-trees 
atuated  on  a 
IS,  and  form, 
all  day  sleep- 
ht  continued 
le  inhabitants 


TROUGH  THE  INTEHIOR  nov,. 

aod  encamp'' ^f^f^o'^^'ocfc  and  came  on  75  „•, 
(fc^lVI^    -11       *'™"'f  water.     Onp  ™:i  '■*  niile» 

'fe  tele  village  the  road  branch^     ^^  °"  *«  «de  of 
tad  one  by  Pattos,  Pa^'sl  ,°'"  ""°  ">««.  theZht 

«k.  leaves  all  the  villages  a  C'       ^"^  "'"''  "Wch  we 

7    irougn  the  mountains  to  M^  .  •  ^°^s  Joiniedi- 

mnduudiiu«ous  for  small  n^w;  ^^°"felov>=»2  h,.^  ;  j 

of  the  ^|^USy;„lP-^Sfromc£:S„ft~ 
,dierstot„J.or«,byt/eorZt;in"  t'^^  what  it  ti^^J 
rderedback-»r,»d  your  guards  mlrj^h/V"^  ^^-T  scarce  of  ^ 

'  ofi  h«  horjr  they  fi,,  ^^^       J^^  ^°  escape  then,  by  s^iCj 

e  to  me,  whA  caravans.  ^     "  ^S"""  Ae  Spanish  settlemt^/ 

vouldbringJ    Wethisdaypass«l 

by  a  dra^  De  San  Mi^^.  who^o^f  ^f' ^  "^'"^  "-- 
akinguseotl^Riodel  Norte  to  som^T     °"  *^  mountains  of 
but  could  nJoid  Mexico.  "^  **"«<=«  into  the  fcin^ 

ling  my  meni   13M  ^,,,  ^^^  ^ 

andhehadfssesRanchedpQ.    a     -^ — ^^^^  on    to    tfiA    «• 
>ctmg  with  , .    My  hoyt^;  i,ZZ7  °'  *^  ="^  ^VT 
.ofn.-.rho„e,havi.,^J«^5^-B^ 


354 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE 


p    III' 


if  'm 


m 


M 


from  their  mouths,  in  order  that  they  might  drink  free, 
which  they  could  not  do  with  the  Spanish  bridles.    The 
hofse  I  rode  had  been  accustomed  to  being  held  by  his 
master  in  a  peculiar  msuiner  when  bridled,  and  would  not 
let  me  put  it  on  a^oia  for  a  long  time,  when  in  the  mean 
time  my  boy's  horse  ran  away,  and  it  was  out  of  our  power 
to  catch  him  again,  but  when  we  arrived  at  the  Ranc!;e, 
w^  soon  had  out  a  number  of  boys,  who  brought  in  the 
horse  and  all  his  diffei^nt  equipments  which  were  scat. 
tered  on  *he  I'ouOe.    This  certainly  was  a  strong  proof  of 
their  iionesty,  and  did  not  go  unrewarded.     In  the  even- 
r)o;  we  gave  them  a  ball  on  the  green  according  to  custom, 
We  here  learnt  that  one  peck  of  com,  with  three  pounds 
of  meat  per  week,  was  the  allowance  given  a  grown 
person. 

l^th  May,  Thursday, — ^Did  not  march  until  half  past 
four  o'clock,  and  about  nine  o'clock  an  officer  arrived 
from  St.  Rosa  vrath  24  men  suid  two  Appaches  in  irons,  Hand  haitec 
They  were  noble  looking  fellows,  of  large  stature,  and  ap<Ho  the  not 
peared  by  no  means  cast  down  by  theif  misfortunes,  i 
though  they  knew  their  fate  was  transportation  beyonJl 

the  sea,  never  more  to  see  their  friends  and  relations | 

Knowing  as  I  did  the  intention  of  the-  Spaniards  towai 
those  people,  1  would  have  liberated  them  if  in  my  powi 
I  went  near  them  and  gave  them  to  understand  we  wi 
fri-^nds,  and  conveyed  to  them  some  articles  which  W( 
be  of  iservice  if  chance  offerer!. 

lliis  day  the  thernwmeter  stood  at  30"  Raumai 
99"*  1-2  Farenheit  and  the  dust  and  drought  of  the  n 
obliged  us  to  march  in  the  night,  when  we  came  1 5  mil 
and  encamped  without  water — indeed  this  road  which 
general  obliged  us  to  take,  is  almost  impassable  at  this 
sofi  tor  want  of  water,  whilst  the  oi  *  is  plentifully  b 
plied.  ^  - 


mfJe 

ford< 

uedst 

to  tra 

of  wa 

on  15 

water  < 

soii.    . 

2( 

med  at 

a  well  i 

made  j. 

this  side 

tiler.     £ 

J  7// 

o'ciock  cj 


\m 


THROUGH  THE  INTERIOR  PROVINCES,  Sec.    255 


ISffi  May,  JRr/Vfly.^— -Marched  early  and  came  on  five 
miles,  when  we  arrived  at  a  pit  dug  in  a  hollow,  which  af* 
forded  a  small  quantity  of  muddy  water  for  ourselves  and 
■jeusts.  Here  we  were  obliged  to  remain  all  day  in  order 
to  travel  in  the  night,  as  our  beasts  could  enjoy  the  benefit 
of  water.  Left  this  at  half  past  five  o'clock  and  cams 
on  15  miles  by  eleven  o'clock,  when  we  encamped  without 
water  or  food  for  our  beasts.  Passed  a  miserable  burnt  up 
soil.    Distance  20  miles. 

I6th  May,  Saturday. — Marched  two  hours  and  ar- 
rived at  a  wretched  habitation,  where  we  drew  water  from 
a  well  for  all  the  beasts.  Marched  in  the  evening  and 
made  15  miles  further.  The  right  hand  road  we  left  on 
this  side  of  Maupeme,  and  joined  it  about  four  miles  fur- 
ther.    Distance  15  miles. 

nth    May,    SKn^^/y.— Marched  and   about  seven 
'-'fti-er  arwedBo'ciock  came  in  sight  of  Paras y  which  we  left  on  the  right 
u      in  iron8.B»nd  halted  at  the  Hacienda  of  St.  Lorenzo,  a  short  league 

anda|i-Btothe  north  of  said  village.     At  the  Hacienda  of  St.  Lo-  . 
.c  -^mves,  iBenzo  was  a  young  priest,  who  was  extremely  anxious  for 
.      beyoniW  change  of  government,  and  came  to  our  beds  and  con- 
d  re\ations...Mersed  for  hours  on  the  subject. 

18th   May,    Monday. — Marched    early   and   came 
rough  a  mountainous  tract  of  country  but  well  watered, 

id  houses  situated  here  and  there  amongst  the  rocks 

lined  the  main  road  at  a  Hacienda  of  — — — —  belonging 


ik  free, 
s.    The 
Id  by  his 
vould  not 
the  mean 
3ur  power 
;  Ranche, 
ight  in  the 
t  were  scat- 

ng  P'°^^  °^ 
[n  the  even. 
g  to  custom. 
hree  pounds 
ren  a  g^om 


Iniards  towai 

tf  in  my  po^^' 
jrstandv^ew 
Ls>vhichw 


the  marquis  De  San  Miquel— good  gardens  and  fruit — 
"  Rautnavtt^so  a  fine  stream.     The  mules  did  not  arrive  until  late  at 
f  the  roSglut,  when  it  had  commenced  raining. 

iStniSl    19/i&  May,  Tuesday.-^Did  not  march   uutil  three 


ght 


A  vfbicb  t»iock,  the  captain  not  being  very  well.     He  here  deter 
issable  fit  this     ""      "'      '  ^  l_.._j.__  .i. 

\  jniifuWv  biigeneral  Salcedo.     Came  on  ten  miles.     Met  a  deserter 
'  "m  captain  Johnston's  company.   He  returned  and  came 


1^  i'i' 


ll 


3^8 


JOURNAL  or  A  VOYAGE 


i 


■  S^»,\1S",        TW!    /ti. 


tM!  '^  I      ft? 


on  1 

footc 

house 

mount; 

"iountz 

n 


to  the  camp,  and  begged  of  me  to  take  him  back  to  his 
company,  but  I  would  not  give  any  encouragement  to  the 
scoundrel,  only  a  little  change,  as  he  was  without  a 
farthing. 

20th  May,  Wednesday. — Came  to  the  Hacienda  of 
Pattos  by  nine  o'clock.  This  is  a  handsome  place,  where 
the  marquis  De  San  Miquel  frequently  spends  his  sum* 
mers,  the  distance  enabling  him  to  come  from  Mexico  in 
his  coach  in  ten  days.  Here  we  met  the  Mexican  post' 
iMer  going  to  Chewawa.  Don  Hymie  who  had  left  us  at 
Paras,  joined  in  a  coach  and  six,  in  which  we  came  out  to 
■J,  little  settlement  called  the  Florida,  one  leagite  from  Pat- 
tos, due  north.    Distance  18  miles. 

The  Hacienda  of  Pattos  was  a  square  enclosure  of 
about  three  hundred  feet,  the  building  being  one  stcry 
high,  but  some  of  the  apartments  very  elegantly  furnished. 
In  the  centre  of  the  square  was  a  Jet  d'eau,  which  cast 
forth  water  from  eight  spouts,  extended  from  a  coloseao 
female  form.    From  this  fountain  all  the  neighbouring  b 
habitants  got  their  supply  of  water.     The  marquis  hadj 
likewise  a  very  handsome  church,  which,  with  its  o: 
ments  cost  him  at  least  20,000  dollars ;  to  officiate  ii 
which,  he  maintained  a  little  stiff  superstitious  priest, 
the  rear  of  the  palace  (for  so  it  might  be  called)  was 
fish-pond,  in  which  were  immense   numbers    of 
fish.     The  population  of  Florida  is  about  2,000  soulP'ed  about 
This  was  our  nearest  point  to  the  city  of  Mexico.         ^n  De  Pq 

21st  May,  1  bursday,-^-Mzrched   down  the  watfc  and  insni 
course  over  a  rough  and  stony  re  i  about  ten  miles,  whil-ieiiienan 
we  left  it  on  the  right,  and  came  Dn  eight  miles  furtherj'.i  of  an  JJ 
a  horse  range  of  the  marquis's,  where  he  had  four  of  Parried  a  r 
soldiers  as  a  guarda  caballo.     Halted  at  half  past  rihere  in  ^i 
o'clock.     At  this  place  we  had  a  spring  of  bad  water.liiis  quurf^ 


ic\i  to  his 
»nt  to  the 
without  a 

acienda  of 
ace,  where 
s  his  sum. 
Mexico  in 
ixican  post- 
id  left  us  at 
came  out  to 
5,e  from  Pat- 


THROUGH  THE  mTKBT,>» 

'NTERIOR  PHovmcp<i  ..    • 

Rancho.  oght  nules  to  the  Ut  .f  .k  **  '"^"'"O"  to  h 
foot  of  themountein,  w^„lf  ""^  T^  "»«»  near  the 
"<>-»..  Some  Spani;^  Sw^T'  "'  '^'^^  "«  "o 
"•ounta™  on  our  Jeft  and  l^^r^?  ''"*•  We  left  p,,,,^ 

~"  over  ^hich  we  w^  'to  '     ?  t'*  "^^  »  "o« 
-"l^.  and  as  Jmlre^^  t.  '""^^  '  They  are  all  ca- 

Km  the  mountain/  ''''*  ^'^  '"^  came  to  a 

«sed  ,'h,     ?'  *'"**?>'— Marched  at  an  „    i    . 

psed  through  the  mountain  r-r."  ?      ^''' ''°"'-  «<» 
^'y"-."r"i^  mountain  of  the   tC'^/    '^'   "^  ™»^0  <^=«ed 
,,  ^htch  «|med  the  main  road  whi^^*!  '^  ,^'  *«  13th  mi/e 
-  a  colos«|.2d  instant,  and  inlne'lt",^^'^'^  '°  "'""S'lton 
ghbounng  ..albican  road  bom  the  easte^^         '  '"""^  '"  *e  main 

K  *e  captain  seminal     "'""  ^""^  Montelovez 
Lach.  '"""'« •'^Press  to  give  noti,,  of  ow 

25'*   May,  Mmday.~.In   fh.     f  ' 

■"s.  commandam  of  the  clZ,  7^"  '''  °-"«i 
nbers  o.  .-J  »  a  coach  and  six  t7  T  '^  ''  "'^  ^""'^iovez  ar- 
t  2,000  soifed  about  five  o'clock    P  M      J"  '°  '°*"'  *'"«*  we 

texico.         r^-Fera™,eheco;„m;nd;„t    f!^'''™'°S"^''«' 
,«„  the  «*•  "xl  inspector  of  the  fiT„'.°^  *•='"<>?' of  Co.. 


,wn  the  ''*•»"'' mspector  of  the  five  nrov,n'''°^<^<'S-- 
ten  miles,  w|Lieuienant  Adams  who  !^  ?«"«<: es. 

^les  further  '..of  an  Irish  engineer  rTh'^  ""''  P'"^^'  was 
had  four  of  unl^  a  „ch  girf  of  the  p   ITr f  °^  *-     He  ,: 


had  four  of 
half  past  n 
,f  bad  water. 


■-•'^-•chgi,r;nheX;T;v'*^^"-  «^ 

e^e  m  elegance  and  styl/C^h'       ^°«'=>  »<!  'hey 
>>'»  quarters  and  were  'it t        m"'"'^'-     ^^^  P"^ 

^i^'^''°*P«^'''y  entertained. 


ml 


^''i' 


.^,1 


* 


S58 


^ 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE 
^  J  'Jtode  preparadoM  for  march- 
««*  *^?  '^^;'^:tw  befo«  any  of  our  people 
tog  Ae  "»« '*»^-  ' 'Xw  round  the  .o«n ;  and  from 
^^  up  and  "^f^X  ^  my  p.,ncil  and  a  pock« 
tf,e  WU  took  a  ^^f^'^ll^  « ,h  me-r-e&med  and 

compass  «hich  X  ^^f  .^"^ving  sent  three  or  four  of 
found  them  at  breakfast  Aeyh      |  ^, 

„y  men  to  search  for  me.  ^^^^^i  saluMg 

pice  were  remarkabW  P°J^j,„J  to  their  commands, 
„henl  passed.     !»»  ' 

Ueutenant  Adams.  Marched  at  seven  o  dock, 

27f*  M«>  T^*''f«««^-r^^''t^D<,„  Hymen,  and  . 
after  taking  an  affecuonate  J^^^   .^^„  „{  pon  Melch«. 
half  past  twelve  arnved  at  '"^  "        j^^^. 
^tuaJed  on  the  same  str«.m^f  Monte  ^^^^^  J 

Don  Melcher  was  »  "^j^^,^  ^  his  service  a  vA 

Ute,  generous  '"f /"^™^,^  Lockwood's  company.M 
«ho  had  deserted  from  cap^am  ^^^^     ^^^^ 

regiment  of  infantry,  by  the  na^e  ^^  ^^  j 

'Z  be  had  acquired  a  co^de«bl.^^U„,,,  States  J 

toested  informanon  'f'='"'       ^^^  knowledge  of  < 
ie„hemetwi*ustas*^tj'     ^^^y,.     „      , 

U^s  and  insntutions  apl^  ^^„,^  „  ^y  J 

^''^''^f^"  XS-Marched  early  and  arnvj 

38»/>  Moy,  ^*""'"'^' i^k     This  place  was  ovJ 
EncinaHaciendo  at  ten  o  clock. 

by  Don  Barego.  Haciendo  of  Endna,  I H 

When  we  arnved  at  the  na^^^^^ 

,  youth  of  18  situng  ;^J^.X1  Mf  p^ysiogno™ 

„hom  I  i-""^"*"''' V!^Xd  into  conversation  with  1 
be  an  American,  ^^ J^  ,j  meeting  a  countr(. 
He  expressed  g'^'^'f  f^nversation.  He  sat  a. 
,„d  we  had  a  P^^^^^l^oX^  collation  of  frm^ 


THROUGH  THE  INTERIOR  PROVINCES,  kc.     S59 


rtnarcH- 
ir  people 
ind  from 
a  pocket 
jrned  and 
or  four  ot 


)p8 


at  tbis 


after  we  quit  the  table,  that  he  was  a  deserter  from  our 
army,  on  which  I  questioned  him,  and  he  replied,  that  hJM 
name  was  Griffith,  he  had  enlisted  in  Philadelphia ;  arrived 
at  New  Orleans  and  deserted  as  soon  as  possible ;  thut 
the  Spaniards  had  treated  him  much  better  than  his  owa 
countrymen,  and  that  he  should  never  return.     I  was  ex- 
tremely astonished  at  his  insolence,  and  mortified  that  I 
should  have  been  betrayed  into  any  polite  conduct  towards 
the  scoundrel.     I  told  him  **'  that  it  was  astonishing  he 
"  should  have  had  tl  3;  impertinence  to  address  himself  to 
"  me,  knowing  that  I  was  an  American  officer."  He  mut- 
tered something  about  being  in  a  country  where  he  was 
protected,  &;c.  on  which  I  told  him,  *'  If  he  again  opened 
« his  mouth  to  me,  I  would  instantly  chastize  him,  not- 
"  withstanding  his  supposed  protection."     He  was  silent, 
and  I  called  up  one  of  my  soldiers  and  told  him  in  his  hear- 
ig,  that  if  he  attempted  to  mix  with  them  to  turn  him  out 
f  company,  which  they  executed  by  leading  him  to  the 
loor  of  their  room  a  short  time  after,  when  he  entered  it. 
en  dinner  was  nearly  ready,  I  sent  a  message  to  the 
prietor,  that  "  we  assumed  no  right  to  say  whom  he 
should  introduce  to  his  table,  but,  that  we  should  think 
it  a  great  indignity  offered  to  a  Spanish  officer  to  attempt 
fr~and  arriveiB  to  set  him  down  at  the  same  board  with  a  deserter  from 
\  -e  was  ovJBthrir  army ;  and  that,  if  the  man  who  was  at  the  table 
in  the  mornii^g,  was   to  make  his  appearance  again, 
f  "Pncina,  ^  fc'B^e  should  decline  eating  at  it."     He  replied,  "  that  it 
teeW  dre««was  accident  which  produced  the  event  of  the  morning; 
hvsioffnoWBthat  he  was  sorry  our  feelings  had  been  injured,  and  that 
tion  with  iBhe  would  take  care  he  did  not  appear  agaii*  whilst  we 
JX  country*ere  there." 

He  sat  at*   Our  good  friend  Don  Melcher  h^re  overtook  us,  and 
■  n  of  fruitsfced  the  evenmg  with  us. 
jd  to  learn  ^W 


lid  saluting 
imtnandaitt, 

^^en  o'clock, 
rmen,  and  n 
)on  Melcher, 

e  fortune*  V)"' 
!  service  a 

,  compai^y 

itt.    'F'O'^^' 
ity  of  crudei 
ited  States, 
>wledge  of 
able.     He  01 
ted  to  my 


1. 


m 


160 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE 


I    ( 


This  day  we  passed  the  last  mountains,  and  again 
entered  the  great  Mississippi  valley,  it  being  six  months 
and  thirteen  days  b,  ice  we  first  came  in  sight  of  them. 
Distance  20  miles. 

29tb  May,  Friday. — Marched  at  seven  oVIock  and 
came  to  the  river  Millada  and  Rancho. 

SOtb  May,  Saturday. — Marched  at  five  o'clock  and 
arrived  at  the  river  Sabine  at  eight — forded  it.  Marched 
in  the  evening  at  four  o'clock,  at  ten  encamped  at  the 
Second  Ridge  without  water.     Distance  27  miles. 

31st   May,   Sunday, — Marched  early  and  at  nine 
o'clock  arrived  at  a  Rancho,  a  fine  running  water— course 
east  and  west.    Marched  eight  miles  further  to  a  point  of  j 
woods  and  encamped.     No  water.     Distance  23  miles. 

1st  June,   Mow Ji»y.— Arrived  at  the  Presidioj  Ricj 
Grande  at  eight  o'clock.    This  place  was  the  position  tol 
which  our  friend  Barelo  was  ordered,  and  which  had  beecj 
very  highly  spoken  of  to  him,  but  he  found  himself  iii| 
erablymist  .JLvf .,  for  it  was  with  the  greatest  difficulty  w| 
obtained  ;^ny  iling  to  eat,  which  mortified  him  extremelj 
Wiien  cii  Chihuahua,  general  Salcedo  had  asked  me  if  j 
had  noi  lost  u  man  by  desertion,  to  which  I  replied  in  i 
negadve.     ^e  then  informed  mc  that  an  American  had  i 
rived  at  the  Presidio   Rio  Grande  in  the  last  year :  th 
he  had  at  first  confined  him,  but  that  he  was  now  relc 
and  practicing  physic,  and  that  he  wished  me  to  exan 
him  on  my  arrival:  I  therefore  had  him  sent  for; 
moment  he  entered  the  room  I  discovered  he  never  1 
received  a  liberal  education,  or  been  accustomed  to 
ished  soriety.     I  told  him  the  reason  that  I  had  reque 
to  see  hira,  and  that  I  had  it  in  my  power  to  serve  bin 
I  found  him  a  character  worthy  of  interference. 

He  then  related  the  following  story ;  "  That'  his 
"  was  Martin  Henderson,  that  he  was  born  in  Rock  Briii  then  senJ 


(( 


it 


«/ 
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of  them. 


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THROUGH  THE  INTERIOR  PROVINCES,  8cc.    261 

«  ouiity,  state  of  Virginia  ;  that  he  had  been  brought  up 
*♦  9  liirmer,  but,  that  coming  early  to  the  state  of  Ken- 
■  tucky  and  Tennessee,  he  had  acquired  a  tuste  for  a 
«<  frontier  life,  and  that  in  the  spring  of  1 806,  himself  and 
*<  four  compar  ons,  had  left  the  Saline  in  the  District  of 
"  Saint  Gaaevieve,  Upper  Louisiana,  in  order  to  pene- 
**  trate  through  the  woods  to  the  province  cf  Texas ; 
"  that  his  companions  had  left  him  on  the  White  T'n'er, 
**  and  that  he  had  continued  on :  that  in  swimmi 
"  western  branch  his  horse  sunk  under  him,  anu 
"  difficulty  he  had  made  the  shore  with  his  gun 
"  he  waited  two  or  three  days  until  his  horse  rose,  and  he 
''  then  got  his  saddle  bags,  but  that  all  his  notes  on  the 
'■'  country,  courses,  &c.  were  destroyed,     lie  then  pro- 
"  ceeded  on  foot  for  a  few  days,  when  he  was  met  by  30 
"  or  40  Osage  warriors,  who  on  his  telling  them  he  was 
"  going  to  the  Spaniards  were  about  to  kill  him,  but  on 
"  his  saying  he  would  go  to  the  Americans,  they  held  a 
"  "^'fficuityB"  consultation  over  him,  and  fmali^  seized  on  his  clothes, 
w     extre<ft*^W"  ^^  divided  them  between  them  j  then  his  pistols,  com- 
■"""pass,  dirk  and  watch,  which  they  took  to  pieces  and 
"hung  in  their    noses  and  ears;    then   stripped  him 

*  naked,  and  i;ound  his  body  they  found  a  belt  with  gold 
'  pieces  sewed  in  it ;  this  they  also  took,  and  finally  seized 
'on  his  gun  and  ammunition,  and  were  marching  oft  to 
'  leave  him  in  that  situation,  but  he  followed  them,  think- 

*  ing  it  better  to  be  killed  than  left  in  that  state  to  die  by 
I'  hunger  and  cold.     The  savages  after  some  time  hakud, 

and,  one  pulled  oflF  an  old  pair  of  leggins  and  gave  him, 
another  mockinsons,  and  a  third  a  buffalo  robe,  and  the 
one  who  had  carried  his  heavy  rifle  had  b\  this  time  be- 
came tired  of  his  prize,  (they  never  using  rifles)  and 
they  counted  him  out  25  charges  of  powder  and  ball, 
«  ^^giilthen  sent  two  Iniians  with  him  who  put  him  on  a  war 


j'clock  and 
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*'  tra^e,  which  they  said  led  to  Aiiiericaii  estsbUshmeats ; 
*'  and  as  soon  as  the  Indians  teft  him  he  directed  his 
"  course  as  he  supposed  for  Samt  Antonio.  He  then  killed 
^  deer  and  made  himself  some  clothes.  He  proceeded  on 
<*  and  expended  all  hisammunition  three  days  before  he 
"  struck  the  Grand  Road,  nearly  at  the  Rio  Grande.  He 
*'  further  added,  that  he  had  discovered  two  mines,  one  of 
silver  and  the  other  of  gold,  the  situation  of  which  |ie 
particularly  described ;  but,  that  the  general  had  takoi 
**  the  samples  from  him.  That  he  would  not  attempt  to 
pass  himself  on  us  for  a  physician,  and  hoped  as  he  only 
used  simples  and  was  careful  to  do  no  harm  we  would 
not  betray  him.  He  further  added,  that  since  his  being 
in  the  country,  he  had  made  (from  information)  maps 
^*  of  all  the  adjacent  country,  but  that  they  had  been  taken 
«« from  him."  \ 

I  had  early  coticluded  that  he  was  an  agent  of  Burf  s, 
and  was  revolving  in  my  mind  whether  I  should  denounce 
him  as  such  to  the  commandant,  but  felt  reluctant  from  an 
apprehension  that  he  might  be  innocent,  when  one  c^  my 
men  came  in  and  informed  me  that  it  was  Trainer,  who 
had  killed  major  Bashier  in  the  wilderness,  between 
Natchez  and  Tennessee,  when  he  was  his  hireling.  He 
shot  him  (when  taking  a  nap  at  noon  through  the  headjiliad  escoi 
with  his  own  pistols.  The  governor  of  the  £tate  and  dielaad  we  fc 
major's  friends  offered  a  very  considerable  re\i^urd  for  hisnt^gent  n 
apprehension,  which  obliged  him  to  quit  the  state  ;  andftiie  inven 
with  an  Amazonian  woman,  who  handled  arms 
hunted  like  a  savage,  he  retreated  to  the  source  of 
White  River,  but  being  routedLfrom  that  retr^t  by  cs4)i 
Maney,  of  the  United  States  army,  and  a  party  of  Cheri 
kees,  he  and  his  female  companion  bore  west,  and  si 
proving  to  be  pregnant,  was  left  by  him  in  the  desert, 
(I  was  informed)  arrived  on  the  settlements  of  Red  rivi 


female 
2d 

toreguj 
Aat  my 
no  mean 

great  dis 

Thk 

monks, 

^us  tf 


Icompaniec 
'g  one 

18  many 
te  serv 

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and 


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scted  his 
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seeded  on 
before  he 
jtnde.  He 
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[  had  takm 
:  attempt  to 
tasheonbf 

(I  yfie  WOttW 
ice  his  bdng 
latton)  maps 
4  been  taken 

\ 
entofBunfs, 

>uld  denounce 
ictant  froman 
en  one  of  ft! 
Trainer,  v>lio 
^ess,   between 
hireling.    He 
igh  theheaay 
.  etate  and  the! 
tevard  for  bis 
Ithe  state  *,  an^| 
^led  arms 
source  of 
treat  by  capt 
xtyof  Cher< 
west,  andsl 
the  desert, 
tiofRedriv 


THROUGH  THE  INTERIOR  PROVINCES,  &c.     S6S 

but  by  what  means  is  to  me  unknt^wn.  The  articles  and 
money  taken  from  him  by  the  Osage's  were  the  property 
of  the  deceased  major.  I  then  reported'  the  circumstance 
to  captain  Barelo,  who  had  him  immediately  confined, 
until  the  will  of  governor  Cordero  was  known,  who  in- 
formed me  (when  at  Saint  Antonio)  he  would  have  him 
sent  to  some  place  of  perpetual  confinement  in  the  inte- 
rior. Thus  vengeance  has  overtaken  the  ingrate  apd  mur- 
derer when  he  least  expected  it. 

In  the  evening  we  w^t  to  see  some  performers  on 
the  slack  rope,  who  were  no  wise  extraordinary  in  their 
performances,  except  in  language  which  would  almost 
bring  a  blush  on  the  cheek  of  the  most  abandoned  o£  the 
female  sac  in  the  United  States. 

2d  June,  Tuesday./^^ln  the  day  time  were  endeavoring 
to  regulate  our  watches  by  my  compass,  and  in  an  instant 
that  my  back  was  turned  some  person  stole  it ',  I  cpuld  by 
no  means  recover  it,  and  J.  had  strong  suspicions  that  the 
theft  was  approved,  as  the  instrument  had  occasioned 
great  dissatisfaction. 

This  day  the  captain  went  out  to  dine  with  some 
monks,  who  would  have  thought  it  profanation  to  have 
had  us  then*  guests,  notwithstanding  the  priest  of  the  place 

had  escorted  us  round  the  town  and  to  all  the  missions ; 

and  we  found  him  a  very  communicadve,  liberal  and  m* 
[telligent  man.     We  saw  no  resource  for  a  dinner,  but  in 

the  inventive  genius  of  a  little  Frenchman  who  had  ac. 
pmpanied  us  from  Chihuahua,  where  he  had  been  officii 
ig  one  year  as  cook  to  the  general,  of  whom  he  gave 

IS  many  interesting  anecdotes,  a  id  in  fact  he  was  of  in- 
tite  service  to  us ;  we  supported  him  and  he  served 

IS  as  cook,  interpreter,  &c.     It  was  astonishing   with 

fhat  zeal  he  strove  to  acquire  news  and  information  for 

lis ;  and  as  he  had  been  four  times  through  the  provinces, 


1     '  ->?* 


ii .;  :.m 


■&^  M 


sTJi  F-rri) 


364 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE 


;i  1 


f' 


he  had  acquired  considerabk  kiiowledge  of  thft  cotm^^ 
people,  &c  He  went  off  and  in  a  very  short  time  return- 
ed with  iable-clotb^  plates,  and  a  dinner  of  three  or  four 
courses,  a  bottle  of  i  wine  with  a  pretty  girl  to  attend  on 
the  table.  We  enquhred  by  what  magic  he  had  brought  it 
about,  and  found  he  hsid  been  to  one  of  the  officers  and  no. 
tified,  that  it  was  the  wish  of  the  commandant  that  he 
should  supply  the  two  Americans  with  a  decent  dinner, 
(this  we  explained  to  Bardo  in  the  evening,  and  he  laugh* 
cd  heartily)  which  was  done,  but  we  took  care  to  compeii< 
sate  them  for  their  trouble. 

We  parted  from  the  captain  with  regret,  and  asfiu< 
ranees  of  remembrance.      Departed  at  five  o'clock,  es^ 

corted  by  ensign and  men,  and  came  on  to  the 

Rio  Grande,  which  we  passed  and  encamped  at  a  Rancho 
on  the  other  side.    Distance  7  miles.  | 

3d  June,  Wednesday.'-'The  musquetoes  which  had 
commenced  the  first  night  on  this  side  Montelovez,  now 
had  become  very  troublesome.  This  day  saw  the  fint 
horse-flies — saw  some  wild  horses— came  on  in  the  opes 
plain,  and  in  a  dry  time,  where  there  was  no  wata*.  Dis- 
tance  30  miles. 

4th  June,  Thursday.^-Czmt  16  miles  to  a  pond  and 
dined-— great  sign  of  wild  horses— in  t^  itemoon  to  the 
river  Noissour  swiming,  where  we  .  iVed,«althougitj 
not  more  than  ten  steps  wide.     Distance  36  vmks, 

5th  June,  Friday, — ^After  loosing  two  horses  in  pai 
ing  the  river  (the  water  having  fallen  so  tha^we  forded 
crossed  and  continued  onr  route*     Passed  two  herd 
wild  horses,  who  left  the  road  for  us.     Halted  at  a  poi 
on  the  left  oi  the  road,  15  miles,  where  we  saw  the 
oak  since  we  entered  New  Mexico,  and  this  was  scrulijed  by  a 
oak.     Passed  njany  deer  yesterday  and  to  day.     Came  oiler  AI*G 
to  a  small  creek  at  night,  where  we  met  a  party  of  thfte  p\x\)]\ 


ton. 
(aoc 


m    wis  , 
|1  •™i 


THROUGH  THE  INTERIOR  PROVINCES,  fco.     %%jl 


eompany  of  Saint  Femaadez  retummg  from  the  Ime.  Du- 
taoce  31  miles. 

6th  June,  Stf/ar^jr.—- Marched  early  and  met  several 
pirties  of  troops  returning  from  Texas,  vhere  they  had 
been  sent  to  rdnforce,  when  our  troops  were  near  the  line. 
Immenae  numbers  of  cross  roads  mads  by  the  wild  horses. 
Killed  a  yfiLd  hog,  which  on  examination  I  found  to  be  very 
different  from  the  tame  breed,  smaller,  brown,  long  hair 
and  short  legs :  they  are  to  be  found  in  all  parts  between 
Red  river  and  the  Spanish  settlements. 

Passed  an  e  icampment  made  by  the  Lee  Panes^^met 

one  of  said  nation  with  his  wife.    In  the  afternoon  struck 

wood  land,  whidi  was  the  first  we  had  been  in  from 

[the  time  we  left  the  Osage  nation.    Distance  39  miles. 

Vb  Junsi  Sunt/jy.— -Came  on  15  miles  to  the  river 

ano,    the  line  between   Texas   and   Cogquilla-»a 

little  stream,  Rancho.    From  thence  in  the  aftet- 

to  Saint  Antonio.    We  halted  at  the  mission  of  Saint 

ih—- received  in  a  friendly  manner  by  the  priest  of  the 

and  others. 

We  were  met  out  of  Saint  Aiitonio  about  three  miles 

governors  Cordero  and  Herrara,  in  a  coach.    We  re- 

to  their  quarters,  where  we  were  received  like  thdr 

en.     Cordero  informed  me  that  he  had  discretionary 

"ed  ,  althoug^Bders  as  to  the  Jiodeofmygcangoutof  the  country:  that 

tnilts.  ■  tb^6f<^i^  wished  me  to  choose  my  time,  mode,  &c.  and, 

horses  in  passjtt  any  sum  of  money  I  might  want  was  at  my  service : 


cotmtry^ 
it  retum- 
t  or  four 
attend  on 
broughtit 
,f$  and  no* 
salt  that  be 
gnt  dinner, 
td  he  laugh- 
to  coropen- 

jt,  and  assu- 
,  o'clock,  es* 
ineon  to  the 
\  ataRancho 

\ 
es  wluch  had 
utelovez,  ncfw 
saw  the  ftcsi 
,n  in  the  opea 
walBT.    DJs- 

toapondaM 
Ifternoontothe 


latwe 


f ordedA  in  the  mean  time  Robmson  and  myself  would  make 

*T^_Q  herd  oiS  quarters  our  home ;  and  that  he  had  caused  to  be  va- 

^  ited  at  a  ponvd  and  prepared  a  house  immediately  opposite  for  the 

saw  the  foA^ption  of  my  men.     In  the  evening  his  levee  was  at- 

I  ,  •    ^2^s  scruAed  by  a  croud  of  officers  and  priests,  at  which  was 

L         Came  oiler  M*Guire  and  Dr.  Zerbin.     After  supper  we  went 

I       pj^iy  of  thAe  public  square,  where  might  be  seen  the  two  go- 
It  a  f  I  ^  J 


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766 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE 


vemors  joined  in  a  dance  with  people,  who  in  the  daytime 
would  approach  them  with  reverence  and  awe. 

We  were  here  introduced  to  the  sister  of  lieutenant 
Malgares's  wife,  who  was  one  of  the  finest  women  we  saw 
•—she  was  married  to  a  captain  Ugarte,  to  whom  we  had 
letters  of  introduction. 

'  8ih  June,  MondEiff.'— Remained  at  Saint  Antonio.  ' 
i  9tb  June^Tuesdaf^-^A  large  party  dined  at  ggver. 
nor  Cordero's,  who  gave  as  his  first  toast,  **  The  Presi. 
"dent  of  the  United  States."— Vive  la-^^Iretumed  the  com. 
pliment  by  toasting  *<  His  Catholic  Majesty."  These  toasti 
were  followed  by  **  General  Wilkinson,"  and  one  of  the 
company  then  gave,  "  Those  gentleman  \    their  safe  andj 
**  happy  arrival  in  their  own  country— their  honorable 
*'  ception,  and  the  continuation  of  the  good  und 
**  which  exists  between  the  two  countries."  ' 

lOth  June,  Wednesday,-'-' A  large  party  at  the 
yemor^s  to  dinner.    -He  gave  as  a  toast,  "  His  Gomp; 
•VHerrara.'^ 

1 1/A /«ii^,  TAww^jy.— Preparing .  to  march  to 
row.    We  this  evening  had  a  conversation  with  the 
governors,  whvem  they .  exhibited  an  astonishing  knoi 
ledge  of  the  political  character  of  our  executive,  and 
local  interests  of  the  dMerent  parts  of  the  imion. 

I2th  June,  Friday. -^^Om  of  the  captains  fromi 
kingdom  of  Leon  having  died,  we  ware  invited  to  ai 
theburkl,  and  accompanied  the  two  governors  in 
coach,  where  we  had  an  op^rtunity  of  viewing  the 
lemnity  of  the  interment,  agreeably  to  the  ritual  of 
Spani^  church,  attended  by  the  militlary  honors,  \vlijPhich  he 
was  conferred  on  the  deceased  by  his  late  brethreiftt  whilst 
arms»  Governor  Cordero  gave  the  information  of  I  M^q* 
inteoded  expedition  to  the  commandant  general  as  mwY  other 


asJ 

fora 

» 

marc 
the  I 

inard 

1 


tie  day  time 


j^toiuo. 
3d  at  ggver- 
«« The  Prea. 
jniedthecom. 
»  ThesetoastO 
andoneofthel 
thdr  8afeasd| 

[  miderspjding 

arty  at  the 
HisGompa 


THROUGH  THE  INTERIOR  PROVINCES,  Sec.    i^ 

as  July.    The  same  month  I  took  my  departure.    Hi»  in- 
formation  was  received  via  Natdiez. 

IStb  JwUf  Saturday,'^'Tldi  morning  there  was 
marched  200  dragoons*  for  the  sea  coast  to  look  out  for 
the  English)  and  that  evening  colonel  Cordero  was  to  have 
inarched  to  join  them. 

We  marched  at  seven  o*clock ;  governor  Cordero 
taking  us  out  in  his  coach  about  two  leagues,  accompa- 
nied by  father  M'Guire,  Dr.  2^bin,  &c. 

It  may  not  be  improper  to  mention  here,  something 
I  of  father  M'Guire  and  doctor  Zerbin,  who  certainly  treat- 
I  ed  us  with  all  imaginable  attention  while  at  Saint  Antonio. 
The  former  was  an  Irish  priest,  who  formerly  resided  on 
the  coast  above  Orleans,  and  was  noted  for  his  hospitable 
land  social  qualities.  On  the  cession  of  Louisiana,  he  fol- 
I  lowed  the  standard  of  the  *'  king,  his  master,"  who  never 
Isufers  an  old  servant  to  be  neglected.  He  received  at 
ICuba  an  establishment  as  chaplain  to  the  mint  of  Meidco, 
■whence  the  instability  of  human  affairs  carried  him  to  Saint 
lAntonio.  He  was  a  man  of  chaste  classical  taste,  obser- 
lion  and  research. 

Doctor  Zerbin  formerly  resided  at  Natchez,  but  in 

onsequence  of  pecuniary  embarrassm^its  emigrated  to 

be  Spanish  territories.    Being  a  young  ttvm  of  a  hand- 

ome  person  and  insinuating  address,  he  had  obtained  the 

will  of  governor  Cordero,  who  had  conferred  on  hitn 

[appointment  in  the  king's  hospital,  and  many  other  ad- 

itages  by  which  he  might  have  made  a  fortune ;  but  he 

ad  recently  committed  some  very  great  indiscretions,  by 

[hich  he  had  nearly  lost  the  hvor  of  colonel  Cordero ; 

at  whilst  we  were  there  he  was  treated  with  attention. 

We  took  a  friendly  adieu  of  governor  Herrara  and 
lur  other  friends  at  Saint  Antonio. 


li 


36t 


JOURNAL  OP  A  VOYAGE 


mt;  «r' 


1 1 


most 

txpet 

howt 

advani 

prmdi 

iuced 

General 

pyerm 

ytnuoe. 

was  ado 

expired 


I  will  here  tttempc  to  pourtray  a  (amt  teutrnhhadtM 
i]^  characters  of  the  two  governors  whom  we  found  it 
Saint  Antonio;  but  whose  supeNexceHent  qualities  )t 
would  require  the  pen  of  a  master  to  do  justice. 

Don  Antonio  Cordero,  is  about  five  feet  ten  inches 
in  height,  ftfty  years  of  age,  hk  complexion,  and  blue 
eyes :  he  wore  his  hair  turned  back,  and  in  every  part  of 
his  deportment  was  legibly  written  ^  The  Soldier."  He 
yet  possessed  an  es^Uflnt  constitution^  and  a  body  wliidi 
appeared  to  be  neithtt  impaired  by  the  &tignes  of  the  va* 
rious  campaigns  he  had  made,  nor4M*gui^  ^y  thenuoM- 
rous  wounds  received  from  the  enemies  of  hia  king.  He  iras 
one  of  the  select  officers  who  had  been  chosen  by  the 
court  of  Madrid  to  be  sent  to  America  a^ot  S5  yean 
since,  to  discipline  and  organize  the  Spanish  provvinails, 
and  had  been  employed  in  all  the  various  kin^^doms  vAMy'soo 
provinces  of  New  Spain.  Through  the  parts  which  velwho  car 
explored,  he  was  universally  bdoved  and  respected ;  anlHAousand 
when  I  pronounce  him  by  far  the  vao^  popular  man  in  thellhe  vice 
internal  provinces ^\  risk  nothing  by  the  assertion, 
spoke  the  Latin  and  French  languages  well — ^was 
rous,  gallant,  brave,  and  ancerely  attached  to  his  king 
coimtry.  Those  numerous  qualifications  have  advarn 
him  to  the  rank  of  colonel  of  cavalry,  and  governor  of 
provinces  of  Cogquilla  and  Texas.  His  usual  resid 
was  Montelovez,  which  he  had  embellished  a  great  di 
but  since  our  taking  possession  of  Louisiana,  he  had 
moved  to  Saint  Antonio,  in  order  to  be  nearer  the  frontii 
to  be  able  to  apply  the  remedy  to  any  evil  which  mi^ 
arise  from  the  collision  of  our  lines. 

Don  Simon  de  Herrara,  is  about  five  feet  elevJ 
inches  high,  has  a  sparkling  l^lack  eye,  dark  complexid 
and  hair.     He  was  bora  in  the  Canary  Islands,  served 
the  infantry  in  France,  Spain  and  Flanders,  and  speaks  fed  and' 


nbhoMteof 
i  found  at 
G^uaUties  it 

« 

i  ten  Uiches 
A,  and  blue 
very  {>2t  of 
Idier."    He 

body  wliich 
es  of  the  yh 
by  thenume. 

boienby  the 
boot  S5  yean 
Bh  proti^i* 


THROUGH  tHE  INTERIOR  PROVINCES,  &c.    M9 

French  language  well,  and  a  little  of  the  English.  He  is 
engaging  in  hia  conversation  with  his  equals ;  polite  and 
obfiging  to  his  inferiors,  and  in  all  his  actions  one  of  the 
most  g^lant  and  accomplished  men  I  ever  knew. 

He  possesses  a  great  knowledge  of  mankind  from  his 
eatperience  in  various  countries  and  societies,  and  knows 
how  to  employ  the  genius  of  each  of  his  subordinates  to 
advantage.  He  had  been  in  the  United  States  during  the . 
presidency  of  general  Washington,'  and  had  been  intro* 
duced  to  that  hero,  of  whom  he  sp^e  in  terms  of  exalted 
veneration.  He  is  now  lieutenant-colonel  of  inlantry,  and 
pvemor  of  the  kingdom  of  New  Leon.  His  seat  of  go- 
lemment  is  Mont  Elrey ;  and  probably,  if  ever  a  chief 
was  adored  by  his  people  it  is  Herrara.  When  his  time 
expired  last,  he  immediately  repaired  to  Mexico,  attended 
loiufdoms  aodlbf  SCO  of  the  most  respectable  people  of  ^is  government, 
2xts  wluch  ttelwho  carried  with  them  the  aghs,  tears  ttid  prayers  of 
respected ;  anllthousands  that  he  might  be  continued  in  that  government. 
ular  man  in  thellhe  viceroy  thought  proper  to  accord  to  their  wishes  pro 
assertion.  oMjtn^re,  and  the  king  has  since  confirmed  his  nomination. 
eU— was  gcml  When  I  saw  him  he  had  been  about  one  year  absent, 
to  his  kingaoBoring  which  time  the  citizens  of  Rank  in  Mont  Elrey  had 
have  advanceBot  suffered  a  marriage  or  baptism  to  take  place  in  any  of 
if  families,  until  thdr  common  Either  could  be  there,  to 

nsent  and  give  joy  to  the  occauon  by  his  presence 

at  greater  proof  cduld  be  given  of  thait  esteem  and 
ive? 

In  drawing  a  parrallel  betwe«i  the  two  friends,  I 
i()uld  say  that  Cordero  was  the  man  of  greatest  reading, 
d  that  Herrara  possessed  the  greatest  knowledge  of  the 
rid.     Cordero  has  lived  all  his  life  a  batchelor.  "Her* 
married  an  English  Lady  in  early  youth,  at  Cadiz, 
slands,  served  Bo  by  her  suavity  of  manners  makes  herself  as  much  he- 
irs and  speaks  tBed  and  esteemed  by  the  ladies  as  her  noble  husband 


governor  oft 
usual  reside 
ji  great  de 

[ana,  he  hadi 
irerthefronttfl 

rH  which  im^ 

five  feet  elev 
[dark  comples"! 


f    » 


S70 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE 


f   1 


does  by  the  men.    By  her  he  has  several  children,  one 
now  an  officer  in  the  service  of  his  royal  master. 

The  two  friends  agree  perfectly  in  one  point,  thdr 
hatred  to  tyranny  of  every  kind ;  and  in  a  secret  determi. 
nation  never  to  see.  that  flourishing  part  of  the  New  World, 
subject  to  any  other  European  lord,  except  him,  whom 
they  think  their  honor  and  loyalty  bound  to  defend  with 
their  lives  and  fortunes.  But  should  Bonaparte  seize  on 
European  Spain,  I  risque  nothing  in  asserting,  those  two 
gentlemen  would  be  the  fifst  to  throw  off  the  yoke,  draw 
their  swords,  and  assert  the  independence  of  their 
country. 

Before  I  close  this  subject,  it  may  not  be  improper  to 
state,  that  we  owe  to  governor  Herrara's  prudence,  that 
we  are  not  now  engaged  in  a  war  with  Spain.    Thisl  wiJl 
be  explained  by  the  following  anecdote  which  he  related 
in  the  presence  of  his  friend  Cordero,  and  which  was  con. 
firmed  by  him.     When  the  difficulties  commenced  on  the 
Sabine,  the  commandant  general  and  the  viceroy  consulted 
each  other,  and  they  mutually  determined  to  maintain 
(what  they  deemed)  the  dominions  of  their  master,  invio 
late.    The  viceroy  therefore  ordered  Herrarat  to  join  Cor- 
dero with  1300  men,  and  both  the  viceroy  and  general 
Salcedo,  ordered  Cordero  to  cause  our  troops  to  be  at- 
tacked, should  they  pass  the  Rio  Oude.    Those  ord 
were  positively  reiterated  to  Herrara,  the  actual  coi 
manding  officer  of  the  Spanish  army  on  the  frontiers, 
gave  rise  to  the  many  messages  which  he  sent  to  genei 
Wilkinson  when  he  was  advancing  with  our  troops ;  bi 
finding  they  were  not  attended  to,  he  called  a  council 
war  on  the  question  to  attack  or  not  j  when  it  was  givi 
as  their  opinion,  that  they  should  inunediately  commeni 
a  predatory  warfare,  but  avoid  a  general  engagementj 
yet,  notwithstanding  the  orders  of  the  viceroy,  the  coi 


At  lei: 

thanks 

having 

thatth( 

thekinj 

timent] 

the  arm 

chiefs  ai 

Ot 

who  cor 

of  New 

bound  t(j 

proportiJ 

called  thj 

nVer  of 
PmilesJ 

[«verythiji 
'fate,  owj 
'dustry,  [ 
Pernor  cJ 
%  of  t\ 
"ediffere 


THROUGH  THE  INTERIOR  PROVINCES,  Sec.    371 


dren,  one 

oint,  their 
it  deternu- 
gyr  World, 
jjim,  whom 
iefend  with 
te  seize  on 
•  those  two 
yoke,  draw 
:e   of  tbeif 

I  improper  to 
rudence,  that 
n.    Thiiwin 
ich  he  related 
rhich  was  con. 
nencedontbe 
eroy  consulted 
\  to  maintam' 
master,  invio.1 
irsitojoinCor- 
,y  and  general 
roops  to  be  a-' 
Those  order 
te  actual  coi 
e  frontiers, 
sent  to  gener 
)ur  troops  •,  h\i 
lied  a  council' 
^en  it  was  give 
iately  commenc 
■al  engagement 
ficeroy,  the  coi 


mandant  general,  governor  Cordero's  and  the  opinion  of 
his  officers,  he  had  the  firmness  (or  tenierity)  to  en|er 
into  the  agreement  with  general  Wilkinson,  which  at 
present  exists  refative  to  our  boundaries  on  that  frontier. 
On  his  return  he  was  recdved  with  coohiess  by  Cordero, 
and  they  both  made  their  commimication  to  their  supe- 
riors. Until  an  answer  was  received,  said  Herrara,  **  I 
**  experienced  the  most  unhappy  period  of  my  life,  con- 
**  scions  I  had  served  my  coimtry  faithfully,  at  the  same 
^  time  I  had  violated  every  princij^e  of  military  duty." 
At  length  the  answer  arrived,  and  what  was  it»  but  the 
thanks  of  the  viceroy  and  the  commandant  general,  for 
having  pointedly  disobeyed  their  orders,  with  assurances 
that  they  would  represent  his  services  in  exalted  terms  to 
the  king.  What  could  have  produced  this  change  of  sen- 
timent is  to  me  unknown,'  but  the  letter  was  published  to 
the  army,  and  confidence  again  restored  between  the  two 
chiefs  and  the  troops. 

Our  company  consisted  of  lieutenant  Jn.  Echarania, 
who  commanded  the  escort.  Captain  Eugene  Marchon, 
of  New  Orleans,  and  father  Jose  Angel  Cabaso,  who  was 
bound  to  the  camp  at  or  near  the  Trinity,  with  a  suitable 
proportion  of  soldiers.  We  came  on  16  miles  to  a  place 
called  the  Beson,  where  we  halted  until  the  mules  came 
u[>.  Marched  again  at  four  o'clock,  and  arrived  at  the 
river  of  Guadalupe  at  eight  o'clock  at  night.  Distance 
80  miles. 

14tb  June,  Sunday,*^Wheii  we  left  Saint  Antonio, 
levery  thing  appeared  to  be  in  a  flourishing  and  improving 
jstate,  owing  to  the  examples  and  encouragement  given  to 
idustry,  politeness  and  civilization  by  their  excellent  go- 
ernor  Cordero  and  his  colleague  Herrara ;  also  the  large 
dy  of  troops  maintained  at  that  place  in  consequence  of 
e  difference  existing  between  the  United  States  and  Spain. 


^l^^^-1 


I'M 


2T2 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE 


'  'I 


Wi     ! 


Came  on  to  the  Saint  Mark  in  the  morning«Hn  tht 
afternoon  came  on  15  milea  further,  but  was  late,  owing 
to  our  having  uken  the  wrong  roadr    Distance  90  mika. 

I5tb  JufUf  M0iu%.— Marched  20  miles  in  the  mora* 
jng  to  a  small  pond,  which  is  dry  in  a  dry  season,  where- 
we  halted.  Here  conUnenced  the  oak  timber,  it  iiaviog 
been  musqueet  in  genml  from  Saint  Antonio.  Fnuk 
like  the  Indiana  territory.  In  the  afternoon  came  on  six 
miles  further  to  a  creek,  where  we  encamped  early.  Dis* 
tance  96  miles. 

16tb  June,  Tuesday^-^Marched  early,  and  at  eight 
o'clock  arrived  at  Red  river.  Here  was  a  small  Spanish 
station  and  several  lodges  of  Tancards,  tall,  handsome 
men,  but  the  most  naked  savages  I  ever  yet  saw  without 
exception.  They  complained  much  of  their  situation]  In 
the  afternoon  passed  over  hilly,  stony  land ;  occasionally 
saw  pine  timber.  Encamped  on  a  small  run.  Distance 
.26  miles.     Killed  one  deer. 

nth  June,  Wednesday, — Came  on  by  nine  o'clock  to  mS^^  o'cloi 
a  large  encampment  of  Tancards,  more  than  40  lodges.  P 
Their  poverty  was  as  remarkable  as  their  independence.*! 
Immense  herds  of  horses,  &c.    I  gave  a  Camanche  andf 
Tancard,  each  a  silk  handkerchief,  and  a  reccmmendation| 
to  the  commandant  at  Natchitoches.    In  the  aftemoc 
came  on  three  hours  and  encamped  on  a  hill,  at  a  ere 
on  the  right  hand  side  of  the  road.    Met  a'large  herd 
mules  escorted  by  four  soldiers  ;  the  lieutenant  took  sor 
money  from  them  which  they  had  in  chargie.    Distancij 
30  miles. 

I8th  June,  Thursday ^•'^Viod.e  on  until  half  past  tc 
o'clock,  when  we  arrived  at  the  river  Brassos.    Here  isj 
stockade  guard  of  on^  corporal,  six  men,  and  a  ferry  be 
Swam  our  horses  over— one  was  drowned  and  sever 
Others  near  it,  ovi^ng  to  their  striking  each  other  with  the 


t„»ouoh™k,kte»,orphovikc.s,./,„ 

*•  «her.  «,d  which  mST^  ilt    "k,""^  '  '"^'>  '^' 

»ell  wood«l  rich  toTT  fhrt"^'''  '^"?"' Wrt,,.- 
■"iles.  and  pawed  a  creek  which  LTT^  °""'  °"  '™  ' 
""passable  four  mile,     n     a        '^  '»«««'• "  nearly 

n»ce  so  miles.  '  '"**"  '^  others.  Dis- 

«»nung-^,^.^^„*J^    ^  00  .6  miles  i„  .h^ 

H  '»«.  ponds  and  Jalll;  SrZ°-  """ '""™'' 

h>«dy.    It  «i„ed  comide^briPr k"1  ^  "'^ 

'l»«g»ge  long  before  ni.rh.n^'.  "^"^  ""'^ 

fefc'  o'clock.     Here  »7lT!f '"  *'  "■^*'  trinity  by 

^»«u-cely  able  ^  S  rt'o  SS" ''  7""'  "»  ^• 
""X  negroes,  some  French  Inrw^     "  ""'"'^'"f 
Jfnation  of  heutenant  wS^nW^™"    *~«^«' 
Wh  »ll  our  horees  ,M  l  '»'«>™val.    Cross. 

«»ce  20  mi|«°^  '*"  "^g*  *i*  much  difficulty. 
SidJuw,  Monday.— Msarh^  ,t  , 

>«  fo«noon.  but  dU  noVS  tr!"  -^  '"'' '"'«'« 
K  P.  M.  Father  JoseZel  c^f  ""'''  ""^ 
^"s  «  this  place  for  the  pos^/1^'  ^^^^ 
M.    ftssed  thick  v«Li,      l      ?"''*"'•«'«« 

kh  rich  g,ass.'"'LTT'dispil  tr"  J"^ 

»nce  22  miles.  ^  '       '°  Nacogdoches. 

'o'S2SnS^--™-'--'.efore. 

LT^S  «"'«•!  good  land  and 


If  [i 


r 


V    '•' 


274 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE 


't1 


l<»^il|:^il'; 


I 

ai 
to 

PC 
his 

die 

% 

xaoi 

tarn 

mth 

ficer 

horn 

cross( 


well  timbered.^  Me|  a  sergeant  from  Nacogdoches.  In  the 
^emoon  made  20  miles  and  crossed  the  river  Natchez, 
nmning  N.  W.  i&  S.  E.  20  yStfds  wide ;  belly  deep  to 
horses  at  that  time,  but  sometimes  impassable.  Tvo 
miles  on  this  6ide  encamped  on  a  hill  in  a  little  prairie- 
mules  and  loads  arrived  at  twelve  o'clock.  The  sandy 
soil  and  pine  timber  began  again  this  afternoon,  but  good 
land  near  the  river.    Distance  40  miles. 

24ft/j  June,  Wednesday,-^1\it  horses   came  up  this 
morning ;  lost  six  over  night.    We  marched  early  and  in 
15  miles  came  to  the  river  Angeline,  about  the  width  of] 
the  Natchez,  running  N.  &  S.     Good  land  on  its  borders  j 
—two  miles  further  was  a  settlement  of  Ban*  and  Daven- 
port's, where  were  three  of  our  lost  hoises— one 
further  found  two  more  of  cur  horses  where  yre  halted! 
for  dinner.     Marched  at  four  o'clock,  and  at  half  pasl 
eight  arrived  at  Nacogdoches— ^were  politely  received  m 
the  adjutant  and  inspector,  ^nd  captain  Herrara,  Dava 
port,  &c.    This  part  of  the  country  is  well  w<Uer6d, 
sandy;  hilly  soil-— pine,  scrub  oak,  &q,     PistanqeSJ 
^es. 

25th  June,  Thursday, — Spent  in  reading  a 
from  the  United  States,  &c.    A  large  party  at 
jutant  and  inspector's  to  dmner.     1st  toast,.  "  Thel 
sident  of  the  United  States."    2nd.  "  The  King  of  Spaii| 
3d.  '*  Governors  Herrara  and  Cordero." 

26/A  June,  Friday, — Made  preparations  to  march  i 
next  day.    Saw  jui  old  acquaintance,  also  Lorrimier's  i 
in-law  from  the  district  of  cape  Jerardeau.    Dined 
the  commandant,  and  spent  the  evening  at  Dav^iiport*!! 

^'Jth   June,  ^Saturday. — ^Marched  after  dinner 
came  only  12  miles.    Was  escorted  by  lieutenant 
diana  and  a  military  party.     Mr.  Davenport's  brothe 
law  who  was  taking  in  some  money  also  accompanied  tb^^  A 


jcbes.  In  the 
iver  Natchez, 
aelly  deep  to 
issable.  Two 
little  prairie- 
^^  "Xhe  sandy 
loon,  but  good 

i  came  up  this 
led  early  and  in 
outthewdthof 
idonitBbordeKl 
Barr  andDaven- 
,o,-8e&-^fte  mik 

wbere  V©  ^^'^l 
and  at  half  M 
Utely  received  M 
Herrara,  Pa^^ 
well 'watered, ' 

gj<,,    pistanQt&i 

rea^g  * 
re  party  at 
toast,. «  Thel 
he  King  of  Spa 

fations  to  marchi 
koLorriiiuer'sr 

[deau.    Dined 
ig  at  Davaiport'j 
d  after  dinner 
by  Ueutenant 
venport'sbrctha 
[so  jvccompamei' 


tHROUGH  THE  INTERIOR  PROVINCES,  fcc.    W5 

Don  Francis  Vuna,  adjutant  and  inspector  of  die 
Internal  provinces,  who  commanded  at  Nacogdoches,  is 
an  old  and  veteran  office*  and  was  one  of  these  who  came 
to  America  at  the  same  time  with  colonel  Cordero ;  but 
possessing  a  mind  of  frankness,  he  unfortunately  spok^ 
his  opinions  toa  freely  in  some  instances,  which  finding 
didr  way  to  court,  prevented  his  promotion.  But  he  is 
highly  rtispected  by  h^  superiors,  and  looked  up  to  as  a 
model  of  military  conduct  by  his  inferiors.  He  unfor- 
tuoately  does  not  possess  flexibiUty  sufficient  to  be  useful 
in  the  present  state  of  the  Spani^  kingdoms.  He  is  the  of- 
ficer who  caused  major  Sparks  and  Mr.  Freeman  to  return 
from  their  expedition  on  the  ReJ  river. 

^SthJune^  Sunday,  Marched  early  and  at  nine  o'clock 
crossed  the  little  river  called  — — >  from  whence  we 


-,  a 
We 


on  in  order  to  arrive  at  the  house  of 

Frenchman,  i— -  miles  distant  from  the  Sabine. 
I  estopped  at  a  house  on  the  road,  where  the  lieutenant  in« 
I  formed  me  an  American  by  the  name  of  Johnson  lived, 
but  was  surprized  to  find  he  had  crossed  the  line  with  his 
munily,  and  a  French  family  in  his  place.    When  we  be- 
gan conversing  with  them  they  were  much  alarmed  think- 
ling  we  had  come  to  examine  them,  and  expressed  great 
lattachment  to  the  Spanish  government,  but  was  somewhat 
lastonished  to  find  I  was  an  American  ofHcer,  and  on  my 
Icorapanions  stepping  out,  expressed  themselves  in  strong 
ItermB  of  hatred  to  the  Spanish  nation.     I  excused  them 
for  their  weakness,  and  gave  them  a  caution.     Fine  land, 
veil  watered  and  timbered,  hickory,  oak,  sugar-tree,  &c,. 
)istance  40  miles. 

2Qth  June,  Monday.-^Owr  baggage  and  horses  came 
lip  about  ten  o'clock,  when  we  dispatched  them  on.... 
larched  ourselves  at  two  o'clock,  and  arrived  at  the  river 
fabine  by  five.    Here  we  saw  the  cantonment  of  the  Spa- 


1^ 


n 


k 


Iff!!! 


i'V:.t    =ii 


are 


JOURNAL  OF  A  VOYAGE 


nish  troops,  when  commaiuM  by  colonel  Haraniyonthe 
late  affitir  J>ecween  the  two  govemments.  Grossed  the 
I^Aime  river  and  came  zboat  one  league  on  this  side  to  a 
Ihtle  prairie,  wher^  we  encamped.  Parted  with  lieutenant 
Guoctiana  and  our  Spanish  escort.  And  here  I  think  pro. 
per  to  bear  testimony  to  the  polit^ess,  civility  and  atten. 
tion  of  all  the  officers,  who  at  different  periods  and  in  dif. 
ferent  provinces  commaded  my  escort,  (but  in  a  particular 
manner,  to  Malgares  and  Barelo,  who  appeased  studious 
to  please  and  accoinmodate,  all  that  lay  in  thdr  power) 
also  the  obliging,  miM  dispositions  evinced  tii  all  instances 
by  their  rank  and  file.  On  this  side  of  the  Sabine  I  went 
up  to  a  house  where  I  found  10  or  15  Americans  hovering 
near  the  line,  in  order  to  embrace  an  opportunity  of  car- 
ryingion  some  illicet  commerce  with  the  Spaniards^  v^o  i 
on  their  side  were  equally  eager.  Here  we  found  Tharp  I 
and  Sea,  who  had  been  old  sergeants  in  general  Wayne's  | 
army.     Distance  15  miles. 

SOr^  June,  Tuesday, — ^Marched  early  and  came  on  to  I 
a  house  at  a  small  creek  15  miles,  where  lived  a  Dutch 
£imily  named  Faulk,  where  we  left  a  small  roan  horsel 
which  had  given  out.  Marched  twelve  miles  further  to  a  I 
large  bayou,  where  had  been  an  encampment  of  our  troops,! 
which  I  recognized  by  its  form,  and  took  pleasure  in  im*! 
agining  the  position  of  the  general's  marquee  and  thel 
tents  of  my  different  friends  and  acquaintances.  IMstancej 
28  miles. 

1st  July,  Wednesday. — ^Finding  that  a  horse  of  docto 
Robinson's,  which  had  come  all  the  way  from  Chihuahua,] 
could  not  proceed,  was  obliged  to  leave  him  here.  Yes- 
terday and  to  day  passed  many  Choctaws,  whose  clothing 
furniture,  &c.  evidently  marked  the  superiority  of  situatiod 
of  those  who  bordered  on  our  frontiers,  to  those  of  th 
naked,  half  starved  wretches  whom  we  found  haoi 


usLyOnthe 

is  ^detoa 
nUeutenant 

y  and  atten- 

s  and  ^^  ^' 
I  a  pardcuUflf 
»ed  stu^ous 
thdr  power) 
a  all  instances 
Sabine  1  went 
icans  hovering 
►rtumty  of  car- 
paiuards^  vrtio 
e  found  tharp 
.neral  Wayne's 


THROUGH  THE  INTERIOR  PROVINCES,   Ice    277 

ground  ^he  Spanish  settk.:  is.  Came  on  and  passed  a 
string  of  huts,  supposed  to  ix  built  by  our  troops,  and  at  a 
small  run  a  fortified  camp  but  a  half  mile  from  the  hill, 
where  anciently  stood  the  village  Adyes. 

We  proceeded  on  to  a  spring  wh^e  we  halted  for 
our  loads,  and  finding  the  horses  much  fatigued,  and  not 
able  to  proceed,  left  them  and  baggage  and  proceeded  on, 
when  we  arrived  at  NalchiU)ches  about  four  o'clock,  P.  M. 

Language  cannot  express  the  gaiety,  of  my  heart, 
I  when  I  once  more  beheld  the  standard  of  my  country 
waved  aloft ! — **  All  hail  cried  I,  the  ever  sacred  name  of 
["country,  in  which  is  embraced  that  of  kindred,  friends, 
I"  and  every  other  tie  which  is  dear  to  the  soul  of  man ! !" 
[Was  affectionately  received  by  colonel  Freeman,  captains 
IStrong  and  Woolstoncraft,  lieutenant  Smith,  and  all  the 
jificers  of  the  post. 

Z.  M.  Pike. 


and  came  on  ttt  I 

e  UvedaDutAI 

mall  roan  horsel 

Ues  further  toil 

Qt  of  our  troops,! 

pleasure  in  M 

arquee  and  the! 

ances.  Distancej 

,  horse  of  docto 
fromChihuahui,] 
limhere.  Ye^ 
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1  IKE. 


Ing  a  tm^ 
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VXvA. 


t«tce. 


•.\ 


gtntle 


lerroomeier- 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  I. 


£  No.  1.3 

Head  of  the  rafiith  de  Moyetif  Aug.  30)  18Q5^ 
Dear  General, 

I  arrived  here  this  dajr,  after  what  I  have  considered  as 
^  rather  an  unfortunate  voyage,  having  had  a  series  of  rainy  weather 
for  the  first  six  days,  by  which  means  all  our  biscuit  was  more  or 
less  damaged,  they  being  in  very  bad  and  open  barrels,  and  having 
g»t  twice  K>  fast  on  forked  sawyers  or  old  trees,  as  to  oblige  me 
[partly  to  unload,  and  staving  in  a  plank  in  another,  which  nearly 
I  sunk  our  bo^t  before  we  got  on  shore,  and  detained  us  one  whole 
[day.    These  all  occasioned  unavoidable  detentions  of  two  days,  and 
|the  innumerable  islands  and  sand  bars  (wliich,  without  exaggera- 
tion, exceeds  the  river  below  the  Ohio)  has  been  the  cause  of  much 
Qe:(pected  delay :  but  I  calculate  on  getting  to  Prairie  de  Chien  in 
|it  least  the  same  time  I  was  coming  here.    We  were  met  yesterday 
I  the  Rapids  by  a  Mr.  William  Ewing,  who  is  sent  here  by  the  go- 
vernment of  the  United  States  to  teach  the  savages  agriculture ; 
nd  I  perceive  in  governor  Harrison's  instructions  is  termed  an 
gent  of  the  United  States,  under  the  instructions  of  P.  Choteau 
nd,  he  says),  with  a  salary  of  500  dollars  per  annum.    I  conceived 
pu  did  not  know  of  this  functionary,  or  that  you  would  have  men- 
pned  him  to  m|i    He  was  accompanied  by  a  Monsieur  Louis  Tis- 
Houire,  who  informed  me  he  had  calculated  on  going  with  me 

I  my  interpreter,  and  that  you  had  spoken  to  him  on  the  occasion, 

1 


!'(.-■ 


•■-{m 


m 


4«* 


and  appeared  much  ditappointeu  .1 1  had  no  inttrue- 

tioM  to  that  effect  i  he  laid  he  had  prOi.ased  to  discover  mines,  kc. 
which  no  person  linew  but  himself)  but)  as  I  conceive  him  much  of 
a  hypocrite,  and  possessing  great  gasconism,  I  am  happy  he  was  not 
chosen  for  my  voyage.  'I'hey  brought  with  them  three  perogues  of 
Indians,  who  lightened  my  barge  and  assisted  me  up  the  Rapids. 
They  expressed  great  regret  at  the  news  of  two  men  having  been 
killed  on  the  river  below  (which  I  believe  to  be  a  fact,  as  I  have  it 
from  various  channels))  and  was  very  apprehensive  they  would  be 
censureu  by  our  government  as  the  author,  which  from  every  en< 
quiry,  they  conceive  not  to  be  the  case,  and  seem  to  ascribe  the  tnnt- 
der  to  the  Kickapoos,  and  strongly  requested  I  would  hear  what 
they  had  to  say  on  the  subject :  this,  with  an  idea  that  this  place 
would  be  a  central  position  for  a  trading  establishment,  for  the  Sacs, 
Reynards,  lowas  of  the  dc  Moyfln,  the  Sioux  from  the  head  of  sud 
river  and  Paunte  of  the  riviere  de  Roche,  has  induced  me  to  halt 
part  of  the  day  to-morrow.  I  should  say  more  relative  to  Messn. 
Swings  and  Houire,  only  that  they  propose  visiting  you  with;  the 
Indians  who  descend  (as  I  understand  by  your  request)  in  about  30 
days,  when  your  penetration  will  give  you  ie  tout  entemble  of  tbeir 
characters.  I  have  taken  the  liberty  of  incios'ing  a  letter  tq  Mn, 
Pike  to  your  care. 

My  compliments  to  lieutenant  Wilkinson,  and  the  tender  of  I 
my  highest  respects  for  your  lady,  with  the  best  wishes  for  your  | 
health  and  prosperity, 

I  am)  general) 

Your  obedient  servant) 
(Signed)  Z.  M.  Pike. 

Qeneral  WilHnMon. 


[No.  2.] 

Prairie  de  CMetif  Sejit.  5,  1 805. 
Dear  GENERAt, 

I  rrrived  here  the  day  before  yesterday,  and  found  my  inter-j 
preter  gone  in  the  employ  of  Mr.  Dickson.     I  then  endeavored 
gain  information  relative  to  crossdng  the  falls  -,  and  amidst  the  ign 


fe..  m 


Al^PENDlX  TO  PARt  I. 


"tl 


1  no  infttrue- 
r  inine»»  kc. 
him  much  of 
py  ho  was  not 
s  peroguet  of 
p  the  R»pW». 
I  having  been 
t,  as  1  have  It 
Lhey  would  be 
rom  evei7  en. 
cribe  the  mur 
juld  hear  whrt 
that  this  place 
nt,  for  the  Sacs, 
the  head  of  »wd 
uced  me  to  halt 
ative  to  Messa 
ngyou  with, the 
icst)  in  about  30 
enaemble  of  tbe« 
a  letter  to  ^^n, 


■  \ 


Sep.  5,  1805. 

id  found  my  int«' 
"(then  endeavored 
\nd  amidst  the  igi 


ranee  of  the  Canadlanst  and  all  the  contradiction  In  the  worldt  T  hftViB 
learned  it  is  impossible  to  carry  my  large  barge  round  the  shootj  I 
have  therefore  hired  two  Schenectady  Wrges,  in  which  I  shall  embark 
the  day  aAer  to-morrow,  with  some  expectation  and  hopis  of  leeing 
the  head  of  the  Mississippi  aAd  the  town  of  Saint  Looia  yet  this 
winter. 

I  have  chosen  three  places  for  niilitary  establUhmeittt ;  the 
first  on  a  hill  about  40  miles  above  the  Hvef  de  Moyen  rapids,  on 
the  W.  side  of  the  river,  in  about  41*  3'  ^.  latitude.  The  channel 
of  the  river  runs  on  that  shore ;  the  hill  in  Tront  is  about  60  fbet 
perpendicular,  nearly  level  on  the  top.  400  yards  in  the  tear  \i  • 
small  praiiic  fit  for  gardening,  and  over  on  the  E.  side  of  the  river 
you  have  an  elegant  view  on  an  immense  prairie,  as  far  as  the  eye 
can  extend,  now  and  then  intern)||^ed  by  clumps  of  treesi  and  tb 
crown  all,  immediately  undir  the  hill  is  a  limestone  spring,  suffi- 
cient for  the  consumption  of  a  regiment.  The  landing  is  good  and 
bold,  and  at  the  point  of  the  hill  a  road  could  be  made  for  a  waggon 
in  half  a  day.  This  place  I  conceive  to  be  the  best  to  answer  tKe 
general's  instructions  relative  to  the  intermediate  post  between 
Prairie  de  Chien  and  St.  Louis ;  but  if  its  being  on  the  W.  bfnlL  is 
a  material  objection,  about  30  miles  above  the  second  Sac  village  at 
the  third  yellow  bank  on  the  E.  side,  is  a  commanding  place,  on  a 
prairie,  and  most  elegantly  situated,  but  is  scarce  of  timber,  and  no 
water  but  that  of  the  Mississippi.  When  thinking  on  the  post  to  be 
established  at  the  Uuiscousing,  I  did  not  look  at  the  general's  in- 
structions. I  therefore  piched  on  a  spot  on  the  top  of  the  hill  on 
the  W.  side  of  the  Mississippi,  which  is  feet  high,  level  on  the 
top,  and  completely  commands  both  rivers,  the  Mississippi  being 
only  one  half  mile  wide  and  the  Ouiscousing  about  900  yards  when 
full.  There  is  plenty  of  tin^ber  in  the  rear,  and  a  spring  at  no  great 
distance  on  the  hill.  If  this  position  is  to  hare  in  vie#  thie  ahtto^- 
ance  of  any  I'uinpean  power  who  inight  ht  induced  toat^atk  it  with 
cannon,  it  has  infinitely  the  preference  to  a  position  calliid  the  Petit 
\Gm  on  the  Oniscousing,  which  I  vidted  and  marked  thie  ndxt  day. 
This  latter  position  is  three  miles  up  the  Ouiscousing  on  a  prklrie 
|hiil,  on  the  W.  side,  where  we  should  be  obliged  to  get  our  timber 
from  the  other  side  of  the  river,  {tnd  our  water  out  of  it;  there  is 
likewise  a  small  channel  which  runs  on  the  opposite  side,  navigable 
[n  high  water,  which  could  not  be  commandt^  by  the  gims  Of  ihe 
[ort,  and  a  hill  about  three*  quarters  of  a  mile,  in  the  rear  from 
hich  it  could  be  cannonaded.  These  two  positions  I  have  marked 
[y  blazing  trees,  &c.     A  Mr.  Fisher  of  this  place,  will  direct  any 


iiK : 


il   '^! 


:i|  # 


>'4a 

'S'.-« 

A 

m 

)y,i 

'  ^* 

^i 

v'" 

.••1^ 

m 

\x 

"  f, ' 

■fe 

ti 

■  *'  .  . 

i 

■f 

'  m 

il 

'M 

il 

li 

m 

;| 

APPENDIX  TO  PART  I. 


officer  who  majr  bo  tent  to  occupy  thorn.    I  found  tho  confiuenco  of 
the  Ouiicousing  and  Miuiiiippi  be  in  Ut.  N.  43*  38'  8". 

The  daj  of  my  arrival  at  the  lead  ininei,  I  wai  taken  with  a 
feveri  which}  with  Monsieur  DubiA|ue  having  no  hojg^a  about  his 
houtoi  obliged  me  to  content  myself  witii  proposing  to  bim  the  in* 
closed  queries ;  the  answers  seem  to  carry  with  them  the  semblance 
of  equivoci^tion. 

Messrs.  Dubuque  and  Dickson  were  about  sending  a  numhjt 
of  chiefs  to  St.  Louisa  but  the  former  confessing  he  was  not  autho 
ized,  I  have  stopped  them  without  in  the  least  dissatisfying  the 
Indians. 

Dickson  is  at  Michilimackinac.  I  cannot  say  I  have  experi- 
enced much  spirit  of  accommodation  from  his  clerkSf  when  in  their 
power  to  oblige  me ;  but  I  beg  leave  to  recommend  to  your  stten* 
tion  a  Mr.  James  Aird»  who  is  flow  in  your  country,  as  a  gentleman 
to  whose  humanity  and  politeness  I  am  much  indebted ;  also  a  Mr. 
Fisher  of  this  pTace*  the  captain  of  militia  and  justice  of  the  peace 
A  band  of  Sioux  between  here  and  the  Missouri  have  applied  for 
two  medals,  in  order  that  they  may  have  their  chiefs  distingui  /.ed 
w  friends  of  the  Americans :  if  the  general  thinks  proper  to  send 
them  here  to  the  care  of  Mr.  Fisher,  with  any  other  conunsnds, 
they  may  possibly  meet  me  here,  or  at  the  falla  of  St.  Anthony  on 
my  return; 

i.  •  •  •  «  •  •  •  t 

"\    •  •    '        •  •      '   '  •  •  *  • 

The  above  suggestion  vould  only  be  acceptable  under  the  idea 
of  our  differences  with  Spmn  being  compromised ;  as  should  there 
be  war,  the  field  of  action  is  the  sphere  for  young  men,  where  they  I 
hope,  and  at  least  aspire,  to  gather  laurels  or  renown,  to  smooth  the 
decline  of  age ;  or  a  glorious  death.    You  see,  my  dear  general,! 
write  to  you  like  a  person  addressing  a  father :  at  the  same  time  I 
hope  you  will  consider  me  not  only  in  a  professional,  but  a  personal  I 
view,  one  who  holds  you  in  the  highest  respect  and  esteem.    Mjl 
;  compliments  to  lieutenant  Wilkinson,  and  my  highest  respects  to  | 
^'yourlady.  •  ^ 

I  an;  general,  ,,  ^^ 

Your  obedient  ?  i  ';mi<  , 
(Signed)  Z.  *.i.  Jc'iKEjLt. 

Oencral  Wilkinton; 


it 


•yi'juA 


m. 


APPENDIX  i'O  PART  I. 


infiuence  of 

ken  wUh  % 

>•  about  hu 
,  »jlm  iVie  In- 
le  »erobl»ce 

ing  •  ft^*'*^'*' 
at  not  »utho 
aatiify^ng  the 

[have  expen- 
,,  when  in  their 
to  youT  *^**^' 
M  •  gentletnm 
tedi  alBoaMr. 
ce  of  the  peace 
have  apptied  for 
efa  dl»ungui  .ed 
,,  proper  ^9^f 
other  coniii^Mids, 
f  St.  Anthony  on 


QUERIES 

Proponed  to  Mr.  Dubugue—witA  '/•  antvnfr». 
I.  Whnt  it  the  date  of  your  grant  of  the  nuoes  From  the  ta* 


:«g«« 


? 


Lie  under  the  Wm 

.  aa  should  there 

/men,  vrhere  they 

UtoBHioothihe 
toy  dear  general,  4 

Ltthewmeiim^H 
',nal,butape«onjl| 

and  esteem,    m 
highest  respects  w| 


Anrwrr.  The  copy  of  the  grant  Is  in  Mr.  Soiilar  Vs  office  \x  St. 
Louis. 

3.  What  it  the  date  of  the  confirmation  by  the  Spaniards  ? 
Ann.  The  same  at  to  query  firtt. 

3. '  What  is  the  extent  of  your  grant  ? 
Ann.  The  same  at  above. 

4.  WhiU  is  tlie  extent  of  thi  mines  ? 

inp  T  h  -   jt;  fight  or  twenty-seven  leaguei  long,  and  from  one 
tothr   ;  t,o\d. 

a    Lr«»''.  marie  per  annum  ?     ^' 
AtiH.  I  lom  30  to  40,000  pounds. 

6.  Quantity  of  lead  per  cwt.  of  mineral  ? 
An».  Seventy-five  per  cent. 

7.  Quantity  of  lead  in  pigt  ? 

An:  All  he  maket,  at  he  neither  manufacturet  bar,  sheet-lead, 
nor  shot. 

8.  If  mixed  with  any  other  mineral  ? 

Am.  We  have  seen  some  copper,  but  having  no  person  suffici- 
ently acquainted  with  chymistry  to  make  the  experiment  properly, 
I  cannot  say  as  to  the  proportion  it  bears  to  the  lead. 
Dubuque. 

(Signed)  Z.  M.  Pikr. 

Lead  mines,  Sept.  1,  1805. 


■Itr- 


V.'\ 


.i.  i'lXEjU. 


im 

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II 

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1 

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i'V 

i*' 

i 

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s 

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1 

.-*■ 

■J 

I.  ' 

i 

i 


y. 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  I. 


I  No.  3.  ] 


CONFERENCES 

HXLD  WITH  DIFFERENT  BANDS  OF  INDIANS,  ON  A  VOTAGE  U!>  TUt 
MISSISSIPPI,  IN  THE  TEARS  1805  AND   1806. 


Sfieech  '^'livered  to  the  Sioux,  at  the  entrance  of  the  river  St.  P^tfr't, 

23d  Sefitcmber^  1805. 


Brothers — I  am  happy  to  meet  you  here  at  this  council  fire, 
>Thich  your  father  has  sent  me  to  kindle,  and  to  take  you  by  the 
hands  as  our  children.  We  having  but  lately  acquired  from  the 
Spanish  the  extensive  territory  of  Louisiana.— Our  general  has 
thought  proper  to  send  out  a  number  of  his  young;  warriors  to  visit 
all  his  red  children — to  tell  them  his  will,  and  to  hear  what  request 
they  may  have  to  make  of  tlitir  father.  I  am  happy  the  choice  has 
fell  on  me  to  come  this  road  ;  as  I,  find  my  brother's,  the  Sioux, 
ready  to  listen  to  my  words. 

Brothers— It  is  the  wish  of  our  government  to  establish  rnl« 
iitary  post's  on  the  Upper  Mississippi,  at  such  places  as  might  be  I 
thought  expedient — I  have,  therefore,  examined  the  country,  and 
have  pitched  on  the  mouth  of  the  river  St.  Croix.     This  place  and  ( 
the  falls  of  St.  Anthony— I  therefore,  wish  you  to  grant  to  the  Univ 
ted  Stales,  nine  miles  square,  at  St  Croix,  and  at  this  place,  fromij 
league  below  the  conSuence  of  the  St.  Peter's  and  Mississippi,  toil 
league  above  St.  Anthony,  extending  three  leagues  on  each  sideofl 
the  river  ;  and  as  we  are  a  people  who  are  accustomed  to  have! 
all  our  acts  wrote  down,  in  order  to  have  them  handed  to  ourl 
children— -I  have  drawn  up  a  form  of  an  agreement,  which  we  wiffi 
both  sign  in  the  presence  of  the  traders  now  present.     After  v\ 
know  the  terms  ^/o  will  fill  it  up,  and  have  it  read  and  interpreted 
to  you. 

Brothers— Thost  posts  are  intended  as  a  benefit  to  you.  Tin 
old  chiefs  now  pi^esent  must  see,  that  their  situation  improves  bvj 
communication  with  the  whites.  It  is  the  intention  of  the  Uiiiiej 
Statesto  establish  at  those  posts,  factories,  in  which  the  Indians  in<| 
procure  all  their  things  at  a  cheaper  and  better  rate  than  they  do  novl 
or,  than  your  traders  can  afford  to  sell  them  to  you,  as  they  are  sil 
gle  men  who  come  far  in  sniall  boats.     But  your  fathers  are  niiu 


(I    i 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  I. 


'  .  ( 


)6. 


i^er  Su  P«;t<r'., 


Lhrt  council  fire, 
take  you  by  Ae 
.quired  from  tk 
our  general  hw 
g  warriors  to  vmt 
hear  vrhat  request 
ppyihechoip--^« 
ier'a,lUe  Si««»> 


and  strong)  and  will  come  with  a  strong  arm,  in  large  boats.  There 
will  also  be  chiefs  here,  who  can  attend  to  the  wants  of  their  bro* 
thers,  without  their  sending  or  going  all  the  way  to  St.  Louis,  and 
will  see  the  traders  that  go  up  your  rivers,and  know  that  they  are 
good  men. 

Brothers— Another  object  your  fathei;  has  at  heart,  is  to  en- 
deavour to  make  peace  between  you  and  the  Chipeway's.   You  have 
now  been  a  long  tinte  at  war,  and  when  will  yoi}  stop  ?  If  neither 
side  will  lay  down  the  hatchet,  your  paths  will  always  be  red  with 
blood ;  but  if  you  will  consent  to  make  peace,  and  suffer  your  father 
to  bory  the  hatchet  between  you,  I  will  endeavour  to  bring  dowii 
some  of  the  Chipeway  chiefs  with  me  to  St.  Louis,  where  the  good 
work  can  be  completed,  under  the  auspices  of  your  mutual  father. 
lam  much  pleased  to  see  that  the  young  warriors  have  halted  here 
to  hear  my  words  this  day ;  and  as  I  know  it  is  hard  for  a  warrior  to 
be  struck  and  not  strike  again,  I  will  send  (by  the  first  Chipeway  I 
meet)  wurd  to  their  chiefs  :— That,  if  they  have  not  yet  felt  your 
tomahawk,  it  is  not  because  you  have  no  legs  or  the  hearts  of  men, 
but  because  you  have  hstened  to  the  voice  of  your  father. 

Brothers — If  the  chiefs  do  not  listen  to  the  voice  of  their 
kher,  and  continue  to  commit  murders  on  you  and  our  traders,  they 
vill  call  down  the  vengeance  of  the  Americans  i  for  they  are  not 
like  a  blind  man  waililng  into  the  fire.  They  were  once  at  war  with 
us,  and  joined  to  all  the  northern  Indians,  were  defeated  at  Roche- 


.nt  to  establish  m. 
,pUcesasmiBUtk 

\  the  country,  a™  HDe  Boeuf,  and  were  obliged  to  sue  for  peace — that  peace  we  granted 
T  his  place  ^  Hthem.    They  know  we  are  not  children,  but,  like  all  wise  people,  are 
(low  to  shed  blood. 


to  grant  to 


the  Uiii'i 


U  this  place,  from 

Lues  on  each  St  ed 
accustomed  to  ha«i 


esent.     After  ^« 
Lead  and  interH 

L  benefit  to  you. 
luation  improve^  by] 


Bhothers.— Your  old  men  probably  know,  that  about  30  years 

we  were  sut)ject  to,  and  governed  by  the  king  of  the  English  ; 

lut  he  not  treating  us  like  children,  we  would  no  longer  acknow- 

idge  him  as  father — and  after  ten  years  war,  in  which  he  lost 

handed  to  ^'"■OCOOO  men,  he  acknowledged  us  a  free  and  independent  nation. 

nt  which  we  ^'''whey  know  that  not  many  years  since,  we  received  Detroit,  Michi- 

ackinac,  and  all  the  posts  on  the  lakes  from  the  English,  and  now 

It  the  other  day,  Louisiana  from  the  Spanish  ;  so  that  we  put  one 

ton  the  sea  at  the  east,  and  the  other  on  the  sea  at  the  west ;  and 

[once  children,  are  now  men  ;  yet,  I  think,  the  traders  who  come 

m  Canada  are  bad  birds  amongst  the  Chipeways,  and  instigate 

m  to  make  war  on  their  red  brothers  the  Sioux,  in  order  to  pre- 

hich  the  Indians  '"•tour  traders  from  going  high  up  the  Mississippi.     This  I  shall 

.  te  than  they  donom^ifg  jjjto,  and  if  so,  warn  those  persons  of  their  ill  conduct. 

'you,  as  they  are  siT 

L.our  Cathers  are  w"" 


Icntion 


of  the  I3"i^« 


.     '';<! 


m 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  I. 


BaoTHfcR8'*-Mr.  Choteau  was  sent  by  your  fatlier  to  the  Osage 
nation*  with  one  of  his  young  chiefs.  He  sailed  some  days  before 
me,  and  had  not  time  to  procure  the  medals  which  I  am  toid  he  pro- 
mised to  send  up,  but  they  will  be  procured. 

Brothers— I  wish  you  to  have  some  of  your  head  chiefs  to  be 
ready  to  go  down  with  me  in  the  spring.  From  the  head  of  the 
St.  Pierre  also,  such  other  chiefs  as  you  may  think  proper,  to  the 
number  of  four  or  five.  When  I  pass  here  on  my  way  I  will  send 
you  word  at  what  time  you  will  meet  me  at  the  Prairie  des  Chiens. 

Brothers — I  expect  that  you  will  give  orders  to  all  your 
young  warriors  to  respect  my  ^aff  and  firotection  which  I  may  tx- 
tend  to  the  Chipeway  chiefs  who  may  come  down  with  me  in  the 
spring :  for  was  a  dog  to  run  to  my  lodge  for  safety,  his  enemy  must 
walk  over  me  to  hurt  him. 

BROTHERs—Here  is  a  flag,  which  I  wish  to  send  to  Gens  de 
Feuilles,  to  shew  them  they  are  not  forgot  by  their  father.  I  wish 
the  comrade  of  their  chief  to  take  it  on  himself  to  deliver  it  with  my 
words. 

Brothers-— I  am  told  that  hitherto  the  traders  have  made  a 
practice  of  selling  rum  to  you.  All  of  you  in  your  right  senses 
must  know  that  it  is  injurious ;  and  occasions  quarrels,  murders, 
Sec.  amongst  yourselves.  For  this  reason  your  father  has  thought 
proper  to  prohibit  the  traders  from  selling  you  any  rum.  Therefore, 
I  hope,  my  brothers  the  chiefs,  when  they  know  of  a  trader  to  sell 
an  Indian  rum,  will  prevent  that  Indian  from  paying  his  credit 
This  will  break  up  the  pernicious  practice  and  oblige  your  father, 
But  I  hope  you  will  not  encourage  your  young  men  to  treat  our 
traders  ill  from  this  circumstance,  or  from  a  hope  of  the  indulgence 
formerly  experienced  ;  but  make  your  complaints  to  persons  in  tliiij 
Country,  who  will  be  authorised  to  do  you  justice. 

Brothers— I  now  present  you  with  some  of  your  father's to-l 
bacco,  and  some  other  trifling  things,  as  a  memorandum  of  ni] 
good  will,  and  before  my  departure  I  will  give  you  some  liquor 
clear  your  throats. 

Whereas,  at  a  conference  held  between  the  United  States 
America  and  the  Sioux  nation  of  Indians :  lieutenant  Z.  M.  Pike, 
the  army  of  the  UMited  States,  and  the  chiefs  and  the  warriors 
said  tribe,  haye  agreed  to  the  Ibllowing  articles,  which,  when  n 
fled  and  approv; 
both  parties.     .^ 

jirt.  1.  Thsrt  the  Sioux  nation  grant  unto  the  United  States, 
the  purpose  of  ebtublislunent  of  military  posts,  nine  miles  squ 


of" by  the  proper  authority,  shall  be  binding! 


•  W,  dej 


,  the  Osage 
daya  before 
told  he  pro- 

tchiefalobe 

head  ot  ihe 
jropevitothe 
ay  I  wUl  send 
ledesCh^ns. 

ra  to  aU  noiir 
Ach  imftl*^- 
,ilh  we  in  the 
lU  enemy  must 

end  to  Gensde 

f  father.    1  ^"W'' 
waiver  it  ^vi^h  my 

ershavetn^adca 

your  right  8en.« 
uarreb,  wutders, 

her  has  thought  I 
,V  rum.  Therefore, 

of  a  trader  to  sell 
ioK  hia  credit.  I 

n.en  to  treat  o. 
eoftheinduigen«| 
,,  to  persons  in  ttal 


;fyouvfather'sj 
«emorandumofn>| 

you  some  Vui^io^' 
I  the  United  States  i 

tenant  /••  ^^^- 
Land  the  v^arnor^ 
es,  which, -V.en 
,haU  be  binding  < 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  I.  9 

at  the  inootli  tff  the  St.  Croix,*  also  from  below  the  conflaence  of 
the  Mississippi  and  St.  Peters  up  the  Mississippi  to  include  the  fulls 
of  St.  Anthony,  extending  nine  miles  on  each  side  of,  the  river,  that 
the  Sioux  liAtidn  grants  to  the  United  States  the  full  sovereigntjr 
and  powbrover  said  district  fbr  ever. 

Art  3.  That,  in  condderation  of  the  above  grants,  the  United 
States  shall  pay  (filled  up  by  the  senate  with  3000  dollars.) 

Art.3.  The  United  States  promise,  6n  their  part,  to  permit  the 
Sioik  to  pask  and  repass,  hunt,  or  make  other  use  of  the  said  dis- 
tticH  as  they  have  formerly  done  without  any  other  excepUon  than 
thssii  specified  in  article  ^rst. 

*  In  testimony  whereof  we,  the  undersized,  have 

hereunto  set  our  hands  and  seals,  at  the  mouth  of 
the  river  St.  Peters,  on  the  33d  day  of  Septem- 
ber, 1805. 

Z.  M.  PiKB,  Ist  lieut.  (L.  S.) 

and  agent  at  the  above  conference, 
his 

LS  PbTIT  CORBEAIT) 


Wat  Ago  Enaobs^ 


X  (L.S.) 
mark 

his 

1^  (L.S.) 
mark 


■W,' 

'H 


,,,  [No.  4.  1 

St.Peteraf  iZdSefit.  1805  ;  9^iiie*i«t(m  thefalU  qfSt.  Jnthm^r 

I  ARRIVED  here  two  days  since,  but  shall  not  be  able  to 

|part  before  the  day  tifter  tomorrow ;  three  of  my  men  have  been 

I  to  view  the  falls,  biut  their  reports  are  so  contradictory,  that  no 

fnion  can  be  formed  from  them.    All  the  young  warriors  (of  the 

tviilageaof  Sioux  near  this  place)  and  many  chiefs  had  marched 

linst  the  phipeways,  to  revenge  a  stroke  made  on  their  peoplOf 

I  very  dagr  after  their  return  from  their  visit  to  the  Illinois  (when 


1  the  United  StateS)im%  ^^  demand  wm'  one  league  below:  their  reply  wai  «•  from  below."— 1 
J         j^hie  n\iic*  9fl^*«ie  (without  iniquity)  they  may  be  made  to  agree. 


liw 


%■ 


'!1 


t 


llnK 


\ 


APFEN^X  T^^ARfl. 


marked  with  .he  bloodjt^q"^^ 

,unn.r  headed '^''"Vf  l^^Woiiw » *e  m^' Wf?'*^*  ™*- 

.here  WW  .  »cew  «"»*)'  '^S^\^<=i'.  Uj  W^  *•"'."  '»""" 
i„  ,vhich  1  touched  9-r"^i0^li^W- »"WW ■?* 

'  „.„,„a„y  me  down  (to  vi.it  youj  a««?  ^  T  ^.  j,^  ,fc„  ,„ 

h^e  iutaed  -•>o«  'O0.<«>  »t«'  ,t^Uv«^^o»»ider«ionUW.n^ 
.     't  :r,e,g.n.«l,.h«*e^d.««l.«>~  «^,,„  t„pri.„e>,... 

The  re«o,s  for  it  ««!**' ^""^  J^ke  them  present,  atth.  ooun- 
of  ,h.  cHsb,  »»''.T**  ."tn  tWs"ountr,  be  valued  «  500  do«an, 
d,,  of  article.  "O-'';""^*;"^!^  of  ihe«  thing,  were  p^v.^ 

and  the  other,  about  50  dpJ'W'rJ'r        j      .„ri«  .hroud8,ta. 

;::pert„   P-'>»f*.ra'J*eu"t"dStat..i.»d*ho«ghd«, 

\Z«>  I  "-«  "<"  f"™"'"''  ^^  „^  «ith  the  land,  yet,  it « I"'* 
,hlt.  i,  the  council  P|!^?!«*jj^^rta.ert  the  amount  of  tho««- 
•our  .«eWency  may  *■»" '"f '  ^aed  in  arucl.  M.  The,  a» 
Lies  » the  conad.rat.on.  to  be  .pec.n  ^^^  ^^j_^y,,^^ . 

to„d  me  up  to  many  '^'''''""'^^S,^  continue  to  kill  fc 
^"  that  it  the  Chipe^'y'"'-"^^;^  on  the  upper  Ml..««p4 

l„d  an.  who  bear  our  tag'^h.  CWpe^   ,     ^^  ^^^„„  ..^  ,k.„. 

bearing  the  Engli.h  Bag)  and  ou   «  ^^  ^^  ^^  ^^^  ^^, 

^„d,  ™d  te«:h  *e»  »  ';Snd:«d  to  .a„  a.  .her.  were  ^ 
dy  done.  ThU  I  «»  *' "  ' '  „,ai„g  „„der  your  licence.,  I  kn»l 
per«.n.  pr.«nt,  who,  "*°»S^,  J™?he  nam.  of  the  W™  H 
S,b.  Briu.h  subject..    A":Mef  tv  „ri„r.onthe  be»:tj 

.  S^«^.old  me  to  look  ""■'^;"  *"U^!  «.dre  were  at  our  c  J 
'tat no. <mlv  '"»■■  •>"' "T  ,ln«eIw«*rfr«ver.l4l'eH 
t^d.  Upi»ible.I ««'  «^"™;^rXhave  «4..^  doubt  of  m. J 
ind  .hew  th.m  you  on  my  «»^:  informme  *e  «"d 

irrhTe^r  r.rrre:iii.h™^»  <>'  -  - 


•ir;; 


i(>i>l»J 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  I. 


It 


\ft,yet  dajjy 

iem,a»l?ecch, 

agh  their  coun- 
rceive  Aat  «e 
,u  vU\  p^eaw  to 
leralionisWank. 

:ce  privately  two 
cntsatthecoun- 
ed  at  200  dollars, 
ingswerepi^ivate 

rlet  shrouds,  fcc. 
and  although  the 

yet,  itispo***^' 
nountof  those  ar- 

lead.    They  have 
Lube  established; 
ontinue  tokilltl>e, 

Upper  Miasisttppi, 
Louldtaketherott' 
\wehadoncealrea- 

as  there  were  sow 

,urUcet^ces,lH 

of  the  li\a«  Uvi^ 
Lviorsonth^bcacb 

L>»ereatourcot«j 
Lr  several  ilieech«« 
Ladoubtof  tnak« 
[nform  tn*  the  60UI 

Lugues  further-^l 
esoftuy  dctevmii 
WntsoftheN.^' 

.•,'ir.',  *«ii»''' 


compltny.  These  nre  both  in  our  country,  and  time  and  circumstan- 
ces only  can  determine  in  what  manner  I  shall  conduct  myself  to- 
ward  them.  *A  Mr.  M'Gillis,  (whose  father  was  a  refugee,  and 
had  his  eitkte  confiscated  by  the  Americans,)  has  charge  of  those 
factories.  He,  they  say,  is  a  sworn  enemy  of  the  tJnited  States—- 
this  was  told  me  by  a  man,  who  I  expect  was  a  friend  of  the  N.  W. 
company  ;  but  had  quite  a  contrary  effect  than  what  he  intended  it 
to  have :  as  I  am  determined,  should  he  attempt  any  thing  malicious 
towards  me,  (open  force  he  dare  not)  to  spare  no  pains  to  punish 
him.  In  fact,  the  dignity  and  honor  of  our  government  requires, 
that' they  should  be  taught  to  gather  their  skins  in  quiet,  and  even 
then  not  in  a  clandestine  manner— added  to  which,  they  are  the  ve- 
ry instigators  of  the  war  between  the  Chipeways  and  Sioux,  in  order 
that  they  may  monopolize  the  trade  of  the  Upper  Mississippi. 

The  chiefs  who  were  at  Saint  Louis  this  spring,  gave  up  their 
English  medals  to   Mr.  Chouteau.     He  promised  them  to  obtain 
American  medals  in  return,  and  send  them  u(t  by  some  officer. 
They  applied  to  me  for  them,  and  said  they  were  their  commis- 
sions ;  their  only  distinguishing  mark  from  the  other  warriors.     I 
promised  to  write  you  on  the  occasion,  and  that  you  would  i  emedy 
the  evil.  The  chiefs  were  very  loth  to  sign  the  articles  relative  to  the 
land,  asserting  that  their  word  of  honor  for  the  gift  was  sufficient) 
and  that  it  was  an  impeachment  of  their  probity,  to  require  them  to 
bind  themselves  further,  Sec.  See.     This  is  a  small  sample  of  their 
way  of  thinking.    I  must  mention  something  to  your  excellency 
relative  to  the  man  recommended  to  me  by  Mr.  Chouteau  as  inter- 
preter ;  at  the  time  he  solicited  the  employ,  he  was  engaged  to  Mr. 
Dickson,  and  on  my  arrival  at  the  Prairie  was  gone  up  the  St.  Pe- 
ters.   I  understand  he  is  to  be  recommended  for  the  a])pointment  of 
the  interpreter  tu  the  Utiited  States  in  this  quarter :  ou  the  con- 
trary, I  beg  leave  to  recommend  for  that  appointment,  a  Mr.  Joseph 
Reinville,  who  has  served  as  interpreter  for  the  Sioux  last  spring  at 
the  Illinois,  and  who  has  gratuitously  and  willingly,  (by  the  permis- 
sion of  Mr.  f  razer,  to  whom  he  is  engaged,)  served  as  my  interpre- 
iter  in  all  my  conferences  with  the  Sioux.  He  is  a  man  respected  by 
the  Indians,  and  I  believe  an  honest  one.    I  likewise  beg  leave  to 
IrecGinmend  to  your  attention  Mr.  Frazer,  one  of  the  two  gentlemen 
'ho  dined  with  you,  and  was  destined  for  the  Upper  Mississippi. 
[e  waited  eight  or  ten  days  at  the  Prairie  for  me,  detained  his  inter- 

f 

*  Incorrect — he  being  a  Scotchman,  a  gentlemen,  and  a  man  of  honor ;  but 

lis  was  the  information  1  received  at  the  St.  Peters. 


If 

i      If;; 

m 

_ 

i 

ft''    f 

"1 

I 

V 

•'•'W  1 


ilMi  'I  ^^mi 


13 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  I. 


preter,  and  from  thence  forward  has  continued  to  evince  a  zeal,  to 
promote  the  success  of  my  expedition*  by  every  means  in  his  power. 
He  is  a  Vermonter  born,  and  although  not  possessing  the  advantages 
of  a  polished  education,  inherits  that,  without  which,  an  education 
serves  but  to  add  to  the  frivolity  of  the  character,  candor,  bravety, 
and  that  amor  patria,  which  distinguishes  the  good  of  every  nation, 
fnim  Nova  Zembla  to  the  Une.  Finding  that  the  traders  were  play- 
ing  tlie  devil  with  their  rum  ;  I  yesterday  in  council  informed  the 
Indiana,  that  their  father  had  prohibited  the  selling  of  liquor  to 
them,  and  that  ihi7  would  oblige  him  and  serve  themselves,  if  they 
would  prevent  their  young  men  from  paying  the  credits  of  any  fft- 
ders  who  sold  rum  to  them,  at  the  same  time  charging  the  chiefs  to 
treat  them  well ;  as  their  faiher  although  good,  would  not  again  for* 
give  them,  but  punish  with  severity  any  injuries  committed  on  their 
traders.  This  I  presume,  general,  is  agreeable  to  the  spirit  of  the 
laws.  Mr.  Frazer  immediately  set  the  example,  by  separating  his 
spirits  from  the  merchandize  in  his  boats,  and  returning  it  to  the 
Prairie — although  it  would  materially  injure  him  if  the  other  traders 
retained  theirs  and  sold.  j 

In  fact,  unless  there  are  some  persons  at  our  posts  here,  (when 
established)  who  have  authority  efTectuaily  to  stop  the  evil  by  confis- 
cating the  liquors,  &c.  it  will  stiil  be  continued  by  the  weak  and 
malevolent. 

I  shall  forbear  giving  you  a  description  of  this  place  until  my 
return,  except  only  to  observe,  that  the  position  for  the  post,  is  in 
the  point  between  the  two  rivers,  which  equally  commands  both ; 
and  at  St.  Croix  on  the  hill  on  the  lower  side  of  the  entrance  on  the 
K.  bank  of  the  Mississippi ;  owing  to  cloudy  weather,  &c.  I  have 
taken  no  observation  here  ;  but  the  head  of  Lake  Pepin  is  in  44° 
58'  8"  N,  and  we  have  made  very  little  northing  since.  The  Mis- 
sissippi is  130  yards  wide,  and  the  St.  Peters  80  yards  at  their  | 
confluence.  .     / 

24M  Sefit. — This  morning  the  Little  Corbeau  came  to  see  me  I 
from  the  village,  (he  having  recovered  an  article,  which  I  suspected  | 
to  be  taken  by  the  Indians)  he  told  me  many  things  which  the  cere- 
mony of  the  council  would  not  permit  his  delivering  there ;  andl 
added,  he  must  tell  me,  that  Mr.  Roche,  who  went  up  the  river  St. 
Peters,  had  in  his  presence  gave  two  kegs  of  rum  to  the  Indians;! 
be  (tlie  chief)  asked  him  "  why  he  did  so,  as  he  knew  it  was  con'f 
"  rary  to  the  ortters  of  his  father  ;  that  Messrs.  Mareir  and  Tremerj 
^  had  left  their  rum  behind  them,  but  that  he  alone  had  rum  contrai^l 
« to  the  orders."  He  then  gave  the  chief  1 5  bottles  of  rum,  as  I  sup 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  I. 


13 


place  until  my 
,r  the  port,  wm 
•omtnandabolhi 

entrance  on  tbe 

Itbev,  W.  I  !-•« 
Pepin  iain44 
Isince.    TheMh. 
80  yards  at  their  | 


uicatne  to  seems 
Iwbich  I  suspected 
La  which  the  cere. 

Bering  there ;  and 
tnt  up  the  river  St 
imtothe  Indian 

.knewitwa**^"'" 

Vlareir  and  Tremet] 

hehadrutncontratJI 


pote  to  bribe  him  to  silence.  I  presume  he  should  be  taught  the 
impropriety  of  his  conduct}  when  he  applies  for  his  licence  the  next 
year. 

26th  Se/it.  above  the  falU  of  St.  Anthony. 
The  cloudy  weather  still  continues,  and  I  have  not  been  able  to 
to  take  the  latitude.  Mr.  Frazer  has  been  kind  enough  to  send  two 
Qf  hi^eople  across  from  the  Sioux  town,  on  the  St.  Peters,  for  my 
dispatches,  and  the  place  being  dangerous  for  them,  I  must  haste 
to  dispatch  them  ;  of  course,  general,  the  following  short  sketch  of 
the  falls,  will  merely  be  from  le  coufi  d'tmil.  The  place  where  the  river 
fallll  over  the  rocks,  appears  to  be  about  1 5  feet  perpendicular,  the 
sheet  being  broken  by  one  largb  island  on  the  E.  and  a  small  one  on 
the  W.  t|ie  former  commencing  below  the  shoot,  and  extending  500 
yards  above  ;  the  river  then  falls  through  a  continued  bed  of  rocks, 
with  a  descent  of  at  least  50  feet  perpendicular  in  the  course  of  half 
a  mile— from  thence  to  the  St.  Peters,  a  distance  of  eleven  miles 
by  water,  there  is  almost  one  continued  rapid,  aggravated  by  the 
interruption  of  i2  small  islands.  The  carrying  place  has  two  hills, 
one  of  25  feet,  the  other  12,  with  an  elevation  of  45**,  and  is  about 
three  fourths  of  a  mile  in  length.  Above  the  shoot,  the  river  is  of 
a  considerable  width,  but  below,  (at  this  time)  I  can  easily  cast  a 
stone  over  it.  The  rapids  or  suck,  continues  about  half  a  mile  above 
the  shoot,  when  the  water  becomes  calm  and  deep.  My  barges  are 
not  yet  over,  but  my  trucks  are  preparing,  and  I  have  not  the  least 
doubt  of  succeeding. 

The  general,  I  hope,  will  pardon  the  tautologies  and  egotisms 
if  my  communications,  as  he  well  knows  Indian  affairs  are  produc- 
;ire  of  such  errors,  and  that  in  a  wilderness,  detached  from  the  civi- 
lized world  every  thing,  even  if  of  little  import,  becomes  magnified 
the  eyes  of  the  beholder,  and  when  I  add,  my  hands  are  blistered 
working  over  the  rapids,  I  presume  it  will  apologise  for  the  man- 
er  and  style  of  my  communications. 
I  am,  general, 

Your  obedient  servant, 
(Signed)  Z.  M.  Pike,  Lt. 

General  Wilkinaon. 


N.  B.  I.  flatter  myself  with  hearing  from  you  at  the  Prairie,  un 
way  down. 


.Hk 


»■, .    f  I 


kes  of  rum> 


as  1 9"F 


I  ^ 


'l      i  1. 


44  APPENDIX  TO  PART  I. 

[  No.  5.  ] 
A*.  W.  eatabliahment^  on  iMke  Leeehy  Feb.  1806. 

SiH, 

AS  a  proprietor  of  the  N.  W.  company,  and  director  of  the 
Zond  du  Lac  departtnenr,  I  conceive  it  my  duty  as  an  officer  of  the 
United  States,  (in  whose  territoiy  you  are)  to  address  you  sdlely  on 
the  subject  of  the  many  houses  under  your  instructions.  As  a  mem- 
ber of  the  greatest  commercial  nation  in  the  world,  and  a  company 
long  renowned  for  their  extent  of  connections  and  greatness  of  views, 
you  cannot  be  ignorant  of  the  rigor  of  the  laws  of  the  duties  of  .inh 
ports  of  a  foreign  power. 

Mr.  Jay's  treaty,  it  is  true,  gave  the  right  of  trade  with  the  sava- 
ges to  British  subjects  in  the   United  States  territories,  but  by 
no  means  exempted  them  from  paying  the>duties,  obtaining  licen- 
ces, and  subscribing  unto  all  the  rules  and  restrictions  of  our  laws. 
I  find  your  establishments  at  every  suitable  place  along  the  whole 
extent  of  tb*;:  south  side  of  Lake  Superior  to  its  head,  from  thente 
to  the  suuri;c  of  the  Mississippi,  and  down  Red  River,  and  even 
extending  to  the  centre  of  our  newly  acquired  territbry  of  Louisiana)  | 
in  which  it  will  probably  yet  become  a  qaestion  between  the  two  j 
governments,  if  our  treaties  will  authorise  the  British  subjects  to  j 
enter  into  the  Indian  trade  on  the  same  footing,  as  in  the  other  parts 
of  our  frontiers;  this  not  having  been  an  integral  part  of  the  United 
States,  at  the  time  of  said  treaty.     Our  traders  to  the  south,  on  the  I 
Lower  Mississippi,  complain  to  our  government,  with  justice,  thati 
the  members  of  the  N.  VV.  company,  encircle  them  on  the  frontienl 
of  our  N.  W.  territory,  and  trade  with  the  savages  upon  saperiorl 
terms,  to  whut  they  can  afTorcl,  who  pay  the  duties  of  their  goodil 
imported  fium  Europe,  and  subscribe  to  the  regulations  pre8cHbeJ| 
by  law.  ■        • 

These  representations  have  at  length  attracted  the  attention d 
our  government  to  the  object  in  question,  and  with  an  intention  tod 
themselves  as  well  as  citizens  justice,  they  the  last  year  took  sonxj 
steps  to  ascertain  the  facts,  and  make  provision  against  the  growiii 
evil.  With  this,  some  geographical,  and  also  local  objects  in  viei 
was  I  dispatched  with  discretionary  orders,  with  a  party  of  troopso^ 
the  source  of  the  Mississi|)pi.  I  have  found,  sir,  your  commeit 
and  establishments,  extending  beyond  our  most  exaggerated  ide 
and  in  addition  to  the  injury  done  our  revenue,  by  the  evasion  of  tl 
duties,  other  acts  which  are  more'particularly  injurious  to  the  hoiA 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  I. 


14 


tnddi^ty  of  our  goveroment.  The  transactions  aJlitdsd  to*  aro 
the  presenting  medaU  of  his  Britannic  majesty,  and  ^agji  of  the  said . 
government,  to  ths  chiefs  and  warriors  resident  in  the  territory  of 
the  United  States.  If  ^lolitical  subjects  are  strictly  prohibited  \» 
our  tiadet  s,  ^/hat  would  be  the  ideas  of  the  executive  to  see  foreign- 
ers makir  if' chiefs,  and  distributing  fiags,  the  standard  uf  an-Eunn 
pean  power.  The  savages  being  accustomed  to  look  on  that  stand- 
ard, which  had  been  the  only  prevailing  one  for  years,  as  that  wliich; 
alone  has  authority  in  the  coun*ry,  it  would  not  be  in  tlie  least  aston- 
ishing to  see  them  revolt  from  the  United  States,  limited  subjec- 
«bn  which  is  claimed  over  them  by  the  American  government, 
and  thereby  be  the  cause  of  their  receiving  a  chastisement :  although 
Decessary*  yet  unfortunate  as  they  have  been  led  astray  by.: the  policy 
of  the  traders  of  your  country. 

I  must  likewise  observe,  sir,  that  your  establishments,  if  pro- 
perly known,  would  be  looked  on  with  an  eye  of  dissatisfaction  by 
our  government,  for  another  reason,  viz.  there  being  so  many  fur- 
nished posts  in  case  of  a  rupture  between  the  two  powers,  the  Eng- 
lish government  would  not  fail  to  make  use  of  those  as  places  of 
deposit  of  arms,  ammunition,  Sec.  to  be  distributed  to  the  savages 
who  joined  their  arms ;  to  the  great  annoyance  of  out*  territory,  and 
the  loss  of  the  Uvea  of  nuiny  of  our  citizens.    Your  flags,  sir,  when 
hoisted  in  inclosed  works,  are  in  direct  contradiction  of  the  laws  of 
natipns,  and  their  practice  in  like  cases,  which  only,admits  of  fo- 
reign flags  being  expanded  on  board  of  vessels,  and  at  the  residence 
of  Ambassadors,  or  consuls.    I  am  not  ignorant  of  the  necessity  of 
Qn'the  fronUenH  your  being  in  such  a  position  as  to  protect  you  from  the  sallies  of 
upon  supcrioiHthe  drunken  savages,  or  the  more   deliberate  plans  of  the  intended 
\       f  (heir  goodil  plunderer ;  and  under  those  considerations,  have  1 4:onsidered  your 
8ctil>ei|  stockades. 

You,  and  the  company  of  which  you  are  a  member,  must  be 
[conscious  from  the  foregoing  statement  that  strict  justice  would  de- 
and,  and  I  assure  you  that  the  law  directs,  under,  similar  circum- 
stances, a  total  confiscation  of  your  property,  personal  imprisonment 
ind  fines.    But  having  discretionary  instructions  and  no  reason  to 
ink  the  above  conduct  was  dictated  through  ill  will  or  disrespect 
our  government,  and  conceiving  it  in  some  degree  departing 
m  the  character  of  an  officer,  to  embrace  the  first  opportunity  of 
ec^ting  those  laws,  I  am  willing  to  sacrifice  my  prospect  of  pri- 
te  advantage,  conscious  that  the  government  look  not  to  interest, 
it  its  dignity  in  the  transaction,'  I  have  therefore  to  request  of  you, 


fe6.  1806. 

^rector  ofthe 
officer  of  the 
you  sdleiy  on 
As  »  mem- 
nd  a  company 
tnesaofvie^Si 
5  duties  of  lim- 

;  with  the  saw- 
itories,  but  by 
obtaining  Uccn- 
,on8of  ourlav^s. 
along  the  whole 
.ad,  from  thente 
River,  and  even 
tbry  of  Louisiana, 
between  thet^o 
iritish  subjects  to 
'in  the  other  parts  I 
part  of  the  United 
the  south,  on  the  I 
with  justice,  m 


lUes 
ulations  pre 

•ted  the  attention 
iih  an  intention  to 
last  year  took  8oi«i| 

against  the  gro«w| 
local  objects  in  viej 
a  party  of  troops* 


sir,  youv 
,st  exagger 
by  the  evasion 


comtnw 
;ated  idei 


of^ 


,.. 


■  i  m 


injurious  to 


the  Im 


16 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  I. 


Miuninces  on  the  following  heads,  which  setting  aside  the  chieanerf 
of  law«  as  a  gentlenton,  you  will  strictly  adhere  to :  viz.— 

That  you  will  make  representations  to  your  agents,  at  your  head 
quarters,  on  Lake  Superior,  of  the  quantity  of  goods  wanted  the 
ensuing  spring,  for  yonr  establishments  in  the  territory  of  the  Uni>. 
ted  States,  in  time  sufficient,  or  as  early  as  possible,  for  them  to  en- 
ter them  at  the  C.  H.  of  Michilimackinac,  and  obtain  a  clearance  and 
licence  to  trade  in  due  form. 

3d.  That  you  will  give  immediate  instruction  to  all  your  pests 
in  said  territory,  under  your  direction,  at  no  time  and  on  no  pMtence 
whatever  to  hoist,  or  suffer  to  be  hoisted,  the  English  flag.  li||«li^ 
conceive  a  flag  necessary,  you  may  make  use  of  that  of  the  United 
States,  which  ia  the  only  one  which  can  be  admitted. 

3d.  That  you  will  on  no  further  occasion,  present  a  flag  or  me- 
dal to  an  Indian :  hold  councils  with  them  on  political  subjects,  or 
others  foreign  from  that  of  trade :  but  on  being  applied  toon  those 
heads,  refer  them  to  the  American  agents,  fhforming  them  t\;f.. 
they  are  the  only  persons  authorised  to  hold  councils  of  a  poUtictt 
nature  with  them. 

There  are  many  other  subjects,  such  as  the  distribution  of  lt> 
quor,  Src.  which  would  be  too  lengthy  to  be  treated  of  in  detail. 
But  the  company  will  do  well  to  furnish  themselves  with  our  lawi^ 
regulating  the  commerce  with  the  savages,  and  regulate  themselves 
in  our  territories  accordingly.  I  embrace  this  opportunity,  to  ac< 
knowledge  myself  and  command  under  singular  obligations  to  your- 
selves and  agents,  for  the  assistance  which  you  have  rendered  us, 
and  the  polite  treatment  with  which  I  have  been  honored.  With 
sentiments  of  high  respect,  for  the  establishment  and  yourself. 
I  am,  sir, 

Your  obedient  servant, 
>  Z.  M.  Pike. 

Hugh  MfGillia^  Eaq. 
Proprietor  and  agent  of  the  N.  W.  company, 
established  at  Zond  Du  Lac. 


%  n 


M 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  t 


If 


chleuierf 

your  held 
ranted  the 
if  the  Ui*' 
hem  to  en- 
saranceand 

\  your  pOtts 
no  pMtence 

Rag.  ^|W' 
f  the  United 

a  flag  or  roe- 
1  Bubject»,  or 
ed  to  on  thotc 
Ing  them  d? 
lof  »poV\ti'aa 

itribution  of  ti- 
sd  of  in  detail 
,  with  our  law»> 
late  themselves 
.ortunity,  to  ac- 
gttUona  to  your, 
ive  rendered  us, 
lonored.    Wit^ 
nd  yourself. 


..  M.  Pike. 


[  No.  6.  ] 

Leech  Lake^  15 /A  February^  1806. 

YOUR  addrcas  presented  on  the  6th  inat.  has  attracted  mjf 
most  serious  consideration  to  the  several  objects  of  duties  on  impor* 
itttlonS)  of  presents  made  to,  and  our  consultations  vvith  Indians ;  of 
enclosing  our  stores  and  dwelling  houses,  and  finally,  of  the  custom 
obtainlRg  to  hdlst  the  British  flag  on  the  territory  belonging  to  the 
''UMlli  States  of  America.    1  shall  at  as  early  a  period  a»  possible 
present  the  agents  of  the  N.  W.  Company  **ith  your  representations 
regarding  tl)e  paying  duties  on  the  importation  of  goods  to  be  bent 
to  our  establishments  within  the  bounds  of  the  territory  of  the  Uni< 
ted  States,  as  also  their  being  entered'  at  the  custom  house  of  Mi* 
chiliinackinnc,  but  I  beg  to  be  allowed  to  present  for  coniiidercition) 
that  the  major  part  ottho  goods  necessary  to  be  sent  to  the  said  es- 
tablishments for  the  trade  of  the  ensuing  winter,  are  now  actuuliy  in 
our  stores  at  Kamanitiguia,  our  head  quarters  on  Lake  Superior,  und 
that  it  would  cause  us  vast  expense  and  trouble  to  be  obliged  to 
convey  those  goods  back  to  Michilimackinac  to  be  entered  at  the 
custom  house  office ;  we  therefore  pray  that  the  word  of  gentlemen 
wiUi  regard  to  the  quantity  and  quality  of  the  said  goo<ls  to  be  sent  . 
to  said  establishment,  may  be  considered  ao  equivalent  to  the  cer- 
tainty of  a  custom  house  register.    Our  intention  has  never  been 
to  injure  your  traders,  paying  the  duties  established  by  law.  We 
hope  those  representations  to  your  government  respecting  our  con* 
^  cems  with  the  Indians,  may  have  been  dictated  with  irutli,  and  not 
I  exaggerated  by  envy  to  prejudice  our  interests,  and  to  throw  u  stun 
I  on  our  character,  which  may  require  time  to  efface  from  the  minds 
of  a  people,  to  whom  we  must  ever  consider  ourselves  indebted  for 
ithe  lenity  of  procedure,  of  which  the  present  is  so  notable  a  testi- 
pony.    The  enclosures  to  protect  our  stores  and  dwelling  houses 
|frotn  the  insults  and  barbarity  of  savage  rudeness,  have  been  erected 
br  the  security  of  my  property  and  person  in  a  country,  till  noW) 
pxposcd  to  the  wild  will  of  the  frantic  Indians :  we  never  formed 
he  smallest  idea  that  the  ^aid  enclosures  might  ever  be  useful  in  the 
juncture  of  a  rupture  between  the  two  powers,  nor  do  we  now  con- 
leive  that  such  poor  shifts  will  ever  be  employed  by  the  British  go- 
jernment,  in  a  country  overshadowed  with  wood,  so  adequate  to 
jvery  purpose.    Forts  might  in  a  short  period  of  lime  be  built  far 
pperior  to  any  stockades  we  may  have  occasion  to  erect. 

3 


I 


.  "' i  i\ 


1  s 
■t  ■'il 


.i::i^'^r 


v« 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  I. 


ippii,rMwi^  • 

0,  ,l,e  «U.l  W"«; ' '  V  i,„,,  Knovo  to  be W  j  „^ 

,Ve  endeavors  «f  y;"[  «^,,  ,f  ,he  ^^^vUcvy  bel<^^'ng  ^.^^^  ^^ 

are  ready  to  con  ^^^  ^°"'"^°?  1"  aU  rules  and  reguh- 

Wear--n)t  ^^^""^   /^  conform  ourselves  to  uUr  i 

-^  tis  -^^^^^^^  -^^^n::: rb^'.--  to  hoU^^ 

"°'^  beg  obe  «Uo  ved  to  ..y,  ^^ll^^:',,,,  faaiUntc  tUe  tn  e 

,.m-e  wUl  be  adopted  to  ^^'^^^    .^^^Rrmed  beyond  ikl 
every  mea*"^       .nd  these  hopes  seem  to  be  con  ^^^i 

Vxth  the  Indians-,  -^^^^^^^^  ^,,  ,  ,,.„  --^  J^^^^^^rs  the  J 

insteadofpnva  .^       e,„,„ent,and  ^^^  ^^^^^^  ■ 

nor,  dismty  and  em  V  ^,l,  ,„  eqmty.    W  j 

in  every  '"-^P^^^ '°;!tect  or  chastise  as  necesuy  J  P      >     I 
,.„.ed  force  ready  to  p  ote  ^^^^  ^^^^'^''^J  of  alMll 


.■  \ 


■<•■. 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  I. 


liirnal,  antf  will  ever  be  preserved  in  the  Rimaliof  the  N.  W.  Com- 
itny.  Were  it  solely  from  th<;  vunsutcraiions  of  iho»c  who  have  ex* 
poBcd  their  lives  in  a  long;  and  po  ,ui  iiiiirch  through  a  country} 
where  they  had  every  distress  to  sufTcr,  and  m^ny  (lungi  rsi  to  expect 
(and  this  with  a  view  to  establish  peace  in  a  savage  country,)  w« 
should  think  ourselves  under  the  most  strict  obli^ttion  to  ussist 
them  ;  but  we  know  we  are  in  a  ouniry  where  hoHpitulity  and  gra> 
tltude  arc  to  be  considered  above  every  other  virtue,  and  therefore 
have  offered  for  their  relief  what  our  poor  nicunH  can  allow  :  and* 
eir.  p^i'init  me  to  embrace  the  opportunityi  to  testify  that  I  feel  my- 
self hiKhly  honored  by  your  acceptance  of  such  accommodations  as 
my  huml)le  roof  cuuld  afford. 

With  ^reat  cunsiderution  and  hi^h  respect  for  the  government 
of  the  United  States,  allow  me  to  express  my  esteem  and  regard 
for  you. 

I  am,  sir, 
Your  obedient  humble  servant, 
(Signed)  H.  M'Gillis, 

Of  N.  W.  Company. 
JJeut.  Pikcy  *  .    :    ,     ' 

1st.  Hcgt.  United  States  infantry. 


aci 


,1  among  VIS,  V 
,s,  prefers  the  hoi 

,,,etvan8'acUonst.l 
^hen  we  behoWi 

ess\ty  or  PO^^<=y 
^^,e  to  that  pool 

huppmess  of  aU,ty 
,e\v  domuln  not  e^ 

„er  -and  hardsbn^^ 


[  No.  r.  ]  .  ^ 

A  SPEECH 

DELIVERED    TO  THE   SAVTEAUX    IN  A  COUNCIL,  JlT    lEECH    LAKS^ 

16tU  FEBRUARY,  1806. 

Brothers — A  few  months  since  the   Spaniards  shut  up  the 
I  mouth  of  the  Mi^bissippi,  and  prevented  the  Americans  from  float- 
ling  down  it  to  the  sea.  This  your  father,  the  president  of  the  United 
jStates  would  not  admit  of.     He,  therefore,  took  such  measures  as  to 
[open  the  river,  and  remove  the  Spaniards  from  both  sides  of  the 
^lissisiiippi  to  a  great  distance, on  the  other  side  of  the  Missouri, 
itid  to  open  the  roivd  from  the  ocean  of  the  east  to  that  of  the  west. 
lie  Americans  being  then  at  peace  with  all  the  world,  your  great 
[ather,  the  president  of  the  United  States,  begah  to  look  round  on 
lis  red  children,  in  order  to  see  what  he  could  do  to  render  them 
[appy  and  sensible  of  his  protection.     For  thui  purpose  he  sent  two 
If  his  captain-i,  Lewis  and  Clark  up  the  Missouri)  to  puss  on  to  the 


b 


mi  * 


10 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  I. 


west  sea,  in  order  to  see  all  his  new  children,  tojjo  round  the  world 
that  way  and  return  by  water.  They  stayed  the  first  winter  at  the 
Maiidane's  villajje,  where  you  might  have  heard  of  them.  This 
year  your  great  father  directed  his  great  war  chief  general  WiU 
kinson)  at  St.  Louis,  to  send  out  a  number  of  his  young  warriors  up 
the  Missouri.  Illinois,  Osage  river,  and  other  courses,  to  learn  the 
situation  of  his  red  clnldi'cn,  to  encourage  the  good,  punish  the  bad, 
and  make  peace  beiwien  ti.em  all,  by  persuading  them  to  layby  the 
hatchet,  and  follow  them  to  St.  Louis,  where  the  great  war  chief 
will  open  their  ears,  that  they  may  hear  the  truth,  and  their  eyes,  t* 
see  what  is  ri^ht. 

Brothers — I  was  chosen  to  ascend  the  Mississippi^  to  bear  to 
his  red  children  the  words  of  their  father ;  and  the  Great  SfiiritYan 
opened  the  eyes  and  ears  of  all  the  nations  that  I  have  passed,  ts 
listen  to  my  words.  I'he  Sauks  and  Reynards  are  planting  corn  and 
raising  cattle.  The  VVinebagos  continue  peaceable,  as  usual,  and 
even  the  Sioux  have  laid  by  the  hatchet  at  my  request.  Yes,  mj 
brothers,  the  Sioux^  who  have  so  long  and  so  obstinately  waged  war 
against  the  Chipeways,  have  agreed*  to  fay  by  the  hatchet,  smoke 
the  calumet,  and  become  again  your  brothers,  as  they  were  woot 
to  be. 

Brothers— You  behold  the  pipe  of  Wabasha,  as  a  proof  of 
what  I  say.    The  Little  Corbeau,  Jills  De  Pinchow, and  the  L'Aile 
Rouge  had  marched   250  warriors  to  revenge  the  blood  of  tiieir  J 
women  and  children,  slain  last  year  at  the  St.  Peters.     I  sent  a  run- 
ner after  them,  stopped  their  march,  and  met  them  in  council  at  the 
mouth  of  St.  Peters,  where  they  promised  to  remain  peaceable  j 
until  my  return  ;  and  if  the  Ouchipawah  chiefs  accompanied  me  to 
receive  them  as  brothers,  and  to  accompany  us  to  St.  Louis,  there! 
to  bury  the  hatchet  and  smoke  the  pipe  in  the  presence  of  our  great] 
war  chief;  and  to  request  him  to  punish  those  who  first  broke  the] 
peace.  i 

Brothers — 1 5ent  flags  and  a  message  up  the  St.  Peters  i 
the  bands  of  Sioux  on  that  river,  requesting  them  to  remain  quieti 
and  not  to  go  to  war.     The  peop'e  of  the  Leaves  received  my  mew 
sage,  and  sent  jnc  word  that  they  would  obey ;  but  the  YsAictongi 
and  Sussitongs  had  left  the  St.  Peters  previous  to  my  message  arrir-j 
ing,  and  did  not  receive  it.    But  when  I  left  my  fort  they  had  ap 
pointed  a  day  for  50  of  their  chiefs  and  warriors  to  come  and  s 
me,  b>'   ''  could  not  wait  for  them  ;   so  that,  as  to  their  dispositioi 
for  pea.    or  war,  I  cannot  answer  i^sitiv^-'y. 


1 

APPENDIX  TO  PART  I. 


Brothers— I  have  thp-  r  '* 

mete  wuhwme,  had  peoDle  »h!  * '^  '"-P°"'Wy  «  mteht 

w.  will  die  ,„g,,^„,,^°^';''°™j.^^^ 

"■""t.  u.  their  room.  °"""  *»"  '!>=  American  govern! 

BROTHERS Traf?»«,  k 

^"?  «i.  .hey  have  done  iTil'tt''  T'"'  •''"'" '  »"  i» 
Plumed  b„„ur  fath.„,  wI,oha,e  haf.';.  "•"  ""''e««  chiefi, 
«»«  you  -«  under  considerabirobitV"'''-  B^'t.he^me    - 

"p.x-^Sr^£f?:prpS;ro--! 

™.l...-  «,d  your  .„der„  r„'h.";ar7   '"  ■""  """"^  ">™  ^on, 

t  ■>"-" -^  yo"  TZl'^Z'°6  """*"'  '"'"•»  °f  ""  o™ 

l*Mren,  ,ho  will  p^^^^  ^^  J"»"«  don.  ,„  hi,  „ji,,  J 

r«"«  ">  "••  color  of  ,hZZ       *""*  P«»«l.n>e„,,  „ie|,o„, 

khra  keep  ,o-.«nd  him  wl  e"2  '  "■"  '»"«'<'>« is  faroff- 

h"  he  here  I  would  hToW  ;^::  "«:"  "^y '•e-of  him  morf: 

muug  men  shoo,  him.    Mytl  ^^J?  "■""  '"^°°'  ""f  ™k« 

f  Wood  i  may  the  Grea.  SpiriUee„  T        /''"""''  "■<'  y«  =1=^ 

,      B«OTHEl,s~Weexn.       •  f^      '"""'  ' 

KPe,era=  yo„r  chie^^'h';  *;™';'""-o>'-»"  .0  come  ,o 
pk  them,  or  «,me  trader.  „ho  «,!"  '  "'»''  ''">'"  "™e  up 
t  bJot  "o  «"'"'  «»ner.    They  may  male 

•""pSTyX''™;^:'^;';;'  ^°f  ^  .h..  .he  mm  ,i,h  „hich  you 


If 


r 


SI 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  I. 


from  amongst  you.  But  I  have  found  the  traders  here  with  a  great 
deal  of  rum  on  hand  ;  I  have,  therefore,  given  them  permission  to 
sell  what  they  have,  that  you  may  forget  it  by  degrees,  ag&inst  next 
year,  when  none  will  be  suifcred  to  come  in  the  country. 


1 


1^,  .J  '\  " 


fi 


t 


II 


ANSWERS 

•  F  SEVEIIAL  INDIAN  CHIEFS  MADE  TO  AN  ADDRESS  FROM  LIEVTE- 
HANT  PIKE,  AT  LEECH  LAKE,  16th  FEBRUARY,  18Q6;' 

I  at.  Sucre  of  Red  Lake  (Wiscouji). 

My  FATHER— I  have  heard  and  undurstood  the  words  of  our 
great  father.  It  overjoys  me  to  sec  yyu  make  peace  among  us.  I 
should  have  ucconi[)unicd  you  had  my  family  been  present,  and 
would  have  gone  to  see  my  father,  the  great  war  chief  1 

This  medal  I   hold  in  my  hand  1  received  from  the,  English 
chiefs.      I  willingly   deliver  il  up  to  you.     \yabaslia's  c^ilumet, 
with  which  I  am  presented,  I  receive  wiih  all  my  heart.  Be  assured  j 
that  I  will  use  my  best  endeavors  to  ^oe^x  my  young  men, quiet.  I 
Tliere  is  n)y  calumet,  I  send  it  to  my  father  the  great  war  chief,  i 
What  docs  it  signify  that  I  should   go  to  see  him.     Will  not  my 
pipe  answer  the  same  purpose  ?    •,  .    ..      ■ 

My  father — You  will  meet  wiih  the  Sioux  on  your  return.! 
You  may  make  them  sraoke  in  my  pipe,  and  tell  them  that  I  Imej 
let  fall  my  hatchet. 

My  father — Tell  the  Sioux  on  the  upper  part  of  the  riveij 
St.  Peters  that  they  mark  trees  with  the  figure  of  a  calumet ;  thai 
we  of  Red  lake  who  may  go  that  way,  should  we  see  them,  thatwij 
may  make  peace  with  them,  being  assured  of  their  pacific  disposil 
tion  when  we  shall  sec  the  calumet  marked  on  the  trees. 


2d.  The  chief  de  la  Terre  qf  Leech  lake  (Obigouitte).  ■ 
My  father — I  am  glad  to  hear  that  we  and  the  Sioux  aij 
now  brothers,  peace  being  made  between  us.     If  I  hav^  received) 
medal  from  the  English  traders,  it  was  not  as  a  mark  of  rank 
distinction,   as  I  coiiddered  it,  but  merely  because   I   made  i 
hunts  and  payed  my  debts.     Had  the  Sucro  been  able  to  go  aiv 
our  father,  the  great  war  chief  I  should  have  accompanied  him 


"  Mrj 

f "  f  ols  a| 

r  ^  ''"pel 
■••efusair 
to  iidml 
''"  into 
'c  paid 
Pec(s  acil 


11 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  I. 


I  am  dcterminpri  ♦«  .  ^-^ 

3rf.  77;e  Geuelle  Plntt^    ^  r 
F"  W  arrived,  ,„d    L. t,  ' '"'  ".'«"  »""  J"/.  "I.e.,  I  he  rd  U,« 

-•    I  have  sen,  m,«l„^e.,oa,   ^^™"""™'''"»P■■"' 
■»<!  may  kill  our  b«.her,.    I  ^^s,  f      ""^  *'  "''"  ™*  I^ce 
™.  >hem  from  a«embli„g,  ^uI^TT'  """"'"  "="•  '<>  ?■•=- 
^un  already  ,o prepay  ,„^;:;J  ^^'J  "     •""=  are  „,a„,  „,,„  ,!^.,^ 

»f  n>y  uncle  here  presen.  hIT  '  "'"' ''°''  """'  'h'  niedal 
"Wsasarecon,pe„,efo  hif!*"'  ■^""=1  "''«>">  the  KnXh 
-*'  here,  i.  is  a.  „y;„'^\«7,''".7-  A»  for  „e,  I  haven' 
n».  medal  «s  given  meZ  ,hl V  7"  ''"«*"y  deliver  i,    " 

■-•»»  of  something  ,,,,  ™tV.;J"tr*"' "™  °  ""^"  - 

Mr,r::iT-"-'^'°»v::'e'""'^^''-"'  -^^  "-■ 

f  '  »i"  preserve  pe^l^^hTl'  h,""  '""  "^^  ^"''«'"  '"  ">y  «rd 

*;<1 "..  S„„„  come  and        e   '    ?  ""^  '?"" '  """■  ■"«  "» 

hke  "P  my  halche, ;  bu,  should!.  '°  ""'  "">'=  '  "uld  not 

"-'»«Mi.npmyha.rr;X7-->^-.ea  seJd' 


-irj 


[  No.  9.  ] 

^  ^  '-Pe  on  a  moment  "Jfle;  J"''  '"^  ^  -^  -cans  .i„i,  tf 
t -^--' ;  for  what  couM  .  e     ^  J  'J""    '  ";'""  '^^  J"-'-  " 
^;"  .^clmit  you  to  send  goods  ^//'l/    T''  "^ "'i'^'^^^'^  th.n  for 
;"  '"to  the   su„,ec,uarterrot!r?  'T"'^^''* '"'-  the  counuy. 
['^  paid   their  dutie,  re,u,aWv  '  '     '•'  ""''^^ -'" '"en  who 

h^^^^tcdconfonnabi/t       r   Th"''.'"^"'^-^'  ""''  '"  "ther 


34 


'APPENDIX  TO  PART  I. 


tice-— What !  Lt.  Pike  not  content  with  luffering  the  laws  to  slum, 
ber,  when  it  was  bis  duty  to  have  executed  them— has  now  suffered 
the  N.  W.  company's  agents  to  come  even  here  to  violate  them,  and 
injure  the  citizens  of  the  United  States ;  certainly  he  must  be  cor- 
rupted  to  admit  this. 

<<  This,  sir,  would  be  the  natural  conclusion  of  all  persons." 


[  No.  10.  ] 


■%"■ 


Cofiy  of  a  letter  to  a  trader^  on  the  aubject  ofaelling  apirituout  Uquort 

to  Indtaru. 


>  11   I  ' 


fW 


Grand  lik,  Upper  MIsiunppi,  9th  April,  x8o6. 
Mr.  La  J^knessb,  ^ 

Sir,  . 

BEING  informed  that  you  have  arrived  here  with  an  intention 
,.of  selling  spirituous  liquors  to  the  savages  of  this  quarter,  together 
with  other  merchandize  under  yOur  charge.    I  beg  leave  to  inform  | 
you.  thai,  the  making  sale  of  spirituous  liquors  on  the  Indian  terri' 
tories  to  any  savages  .whatsoever,  is  contrary  to  a  law  of  the  United] 
States  for  regulating  the  trade  witJi  the  savages ;  and  presenriD;] 
peace  on  the  frontiers.    And  that,  notwithstanding  the  custom  huf 
^hitherto  obtained  on  the  Upper  Mississippi,  no  person  whatsoever! 
has  authority  therefor;  and  as  the  practice  may  have  a  tendency t 
occasion  broils  and  dissentions  amongst  the  savages,  and  therel; 
.occasion  bloodshed,  and  an  infraction  of  the  good  understandiij 
which  now  (through  my  endeavors)  so  happily  exists.    I  havs(ij 
•your  particular  request)  addressed  you  this  note  in  writing,  inlbn 
Ing  you  that  in  case  of  an  it^fraction^  I  shall  conceive  it  my  dutyiij 
an  officer  of  the  United  States,  to  prosecute  according  to  thej 
^and  fienaltiea  of  the  law. 

I  am,  sir, 
•  With  all  due  consideration. 

Your  obedient  servant, 
(Signed)  Z.  M.  Pike,  Lt. 


4  f  I 


.'  f 


APPENDIX  TO  PART 

[No.  11.  J 


I. 


25 


ng  tpirituow  Ugum 


CabokU,  eXrkf  fo';^,  ^^"  ^e  hour,  »<,  „  „,. 

1  pushed  forward  h„  o  ,  ,, """"""^  >>'  my  episije 
•"»k«!  Lake  De  Sable  =  ^       °^'''  "'*  "«  "ge^.^       . 
rather  was  ™iu      1     '' "''"'"'  '"  Si.  LouisT?.,     '      *"'«'  '"> 

"*e"  a, ui  „■",:«  rr'™^'  "-"'"mSde„;:r"'  **• 

»™ced  r„„„i„g'7«°  '°f  Pl-e,  and  .he  ice  *n,edk.e. "'°°"'' 

"Imostany  partv  J  a     ^    "''°"*  '''^"y  say)  as  m««    u    ?       ^''^ 

;«*  expanded  on  some  ve7y  1'"  .  ^^  ^'^^  ^"^^^  ^ag  rwhL^ 
J'o  that  of  the  rTn»  lo^  ^P^'^^'^'e  positional  l,o  >'  ^^™ch 
l*ave  the  faith  ,    T^  ^''"''  ^^^rever  ^e  na,  ^  J   t^^''""  P'*'^^ 

joaccompjish  M-ithout  the  loss  ^r^^""^^  ^  ^«ve  been  happy  enoii«.h 

hHoa,  the  latter  of  w,  o^^"!  "?  ^"'' *'"»">»"C 
f  .l»«™e  here  las,  a„,u„„  L  '  .  "*"  ""•"  ">«"  ^ince 
H  «xp=c.atio„  of  „t,ai„,""  j,'^' ™'"-''''«™  '  »h.ll  *m.„d,  «„" 
P."<1  expect  to  have  them  Ihh  ^  "  "^  ' '""' "«"« '""-s  mak- 
h»»lence  of  the  savageain  'hi?  ""  "'?'  '"""■  Indeed,  sir 
H™mcdia.ce>,.„,p|i;;j,^  =^;;""  .  unbounded,  an    Z'. 


,T, 


ii 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  I. 


My  p.«y  ha.  b«n  '«-";  "; '  ;^,;  „f  „„,  Bag,  or  die  in  th.«. 

"■"I"-  1  .h..  n.v  voyage  «n  be  producUve  of  much 

1  pwume,  eenetal,  that '»''  'J  *f      „>„„  ,»  our  govemmew, 

new  matter,  useful  and  """,!"'"? '"J^^o,  .  «,ldier  ot  fortune. 

Xugh  detailed  In  the  ""P"''*'""  ^  ^T eOO  n,He.  above  here^  on 

The  river  broke  up  at  my  SW'^'"*' ^        f„  ^oats  onl„  on  th. 

„„  T  h  instant,  and  Lake  Peptn  ««  P«»f '^^  ^,„  .,„»  in  m,  de- 

Uth.    Thus  you  may  P""'"' "!' ^^  v„,m  the  Ume  it  «U1  tak. 

!  „t,  leaving  all  the  ^^'"'"^^^^.^f  the  v.ter,  I  calcuh,. 

,„  make  n.,  '''^S'"""'"'''  the  4th  ot  May  :  and  hope  ■», 

„„  arriving..  *' ""^  h  :.o°hing  but  the  „>o,t  in.urmou,.t.U. 

•'""rtud'^r.e-Lon.ent. 
obstacles  shall  detain  nic 

.  lam,  dear  sir, 

With  gf eat  considevalion, 

:*^  Your  obedient  servant, 

.       "  Z.  M.  Pike,  U. 

(Signed; 

.       u     rr^noral  aeainst  attendiuR  to  , 
N.  B.  1  beg  leave  to  eautton  the  gee-l;^^^^^ 

.h.  reportsof  .nyindi«du.l..  a.^^-^^^^^^  ^^^.\ 

mMt  unbounded  prejudice,  and  P«r  Y  I 

""*""•    .  (Signed)  '"■ 


:>?5? 


Bl* 


'  [No.  12.  J 

A  SPEECH  ^ . 

OKMYEEEO   T«  THE    PUANTS,   AT  THE 

''Td  here     St  autumn,  I  requested] 

BKOTHEKS-When  1 1^^^^^^^^^^^  ,,,, ,         a  J 

see  you  on  my  return.    1  am  P^e  ^^^^  ^^^^  ^j  ,n| 

words.  i^»^-p^'^":t '^^^^^^^^  ^°'';rj 

:X:r1e:::t:S -—  betwee.  t.o  or  the^ 

enough  to  ^i"---^^*;^:t 'ou     o..ing  last  autun., 
en  the  canoes,  in  ^--;^>  .f^;,^^,'^^  ,Uting  peaceably  in  Wi 
httve  kUled  a  man  on  Rock  river,  m 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  I. 


27 


4- 


die  in  the  ai- 

:uve  ot  much 
r  goveromeni, 
.f  of  fovWM. 
above  berc^o" 
^is  only,  on  the 

time  it  v»i«  take 

ater,  I  c*^*^"^^^' 
.  and  \iope  my 


inaurmo 


lUnVAble 


.a\nst  aUendmRi- 
thiscountry.astbel 
pevvade  almost  gel 

p. 


IK  DBS  CBVIN»,  t« 

KuhaveUs.ened    ' 
en  the  ears  of  aU 
.attend  to  the  .0* 
ItweeYit^oof  thci 

nation  have  bee« 
t:ot  content  >vuU*i' 
Ling  last  autunva, 
Lpeaceablymh«« 


Also— they  have  more  recently  murdered  a  young  man  near  this 
place,  without  any  provocation  whatever.  As  an  officer  of  the  Uni* 
ted  States,  it  is  my  duty  to  demand  the  murderers  ;  and  /  do  now 
demand  them.  ' 

Brothers — In  this  action  I  am  not  influenced  or  urged  by  any 
individual  of  this  place,  or  the  people  generally  :  no  more  than,  as 
it  is  my  duty  to  give  all  our  citizens  all  the  protection  in  my  power. 
I  will  not  deceive  you.  If  the  prisoners  are  delivered  to  me,  I  shall 
put  them  in  iron»^  under  my  guards  i  and  in  all  instances  treat  them 
as  men  guilty  of  a  capital  crime  ;  and  on  their  atrval  below,  they 
will  be  tried  for  their  lives,  and  if  it  be  proved  they  have  killed  the 
people  without  provocation,  in  all  probability  they  will  he  put  to 
itath.  If  on  the  contrary,  it  is  proved  that  the  whites  were  the  ag- 
gressors, and  it  was  only  seif  defence,  it  will  be  deemed  justifiable, 
and  they  will  be  sent  back  to  their  nation. 

It  becomes  you  to  consider  well,  if  in  case  of  a  refusal,  you  are 
sufficiently  powerful  to  protect  those  men  against  the^wer  of  the 
United  States — who  has  always  since  the  treaty  of  1795,  treated  all 
the  savages  as  their  children ;  but  if  obliged  to  march  troops  to 
punish  the  many  murders  committed  on  their  citizens  ;  then  the  in- 
nocent  will  suffer  with  the  guilty. 

My  demand  will  be  reported  in  candor  and  truth  be]ow<~when 
the  general  will  take  such  steps  as  he  may  deem  proper.  But  I 
hope  for  the  sake  of  your  innocent  women  and  children,  you  will  do 
us  and  yourselves  justice.  I  was  directed  to  invite  a  few  chiefs  down 
widi  me  to  St.  Louis.  Many  of  different  bands  are  about  to  descend 
with  me.  I  now  give  an  invitation  to  two  or  three  of  your  principal 
men,  to  descend  with  me.  Whatever  are  your  determinations,  I 
pledge  the  faith  of  a  soldier^  for  a  safe  conduct  back  to  your  nation. 
At  present,  I  am  not  instructed  to  act  by  force,  to  procure  tho«e 
men — therefore,  you  will  consider  yourselves  as  aqting  without  res- 
traint, and  under  free  deliberations. 

They  replied — ^"  That  they  thanked  me  for  the  generous  and 
'  candid  manner  in  which  I  had  explained  myself,  and  that  they 
would  give  me  an  answer  to-morrow." 

2\8t  Afiril. — The  Puants  met  me  in  council,  agreeably  to  pro- 
ise,  and  Karamone,  their  chief,  addressed  me  and  said—"  They 
had  come' to  reply  to  my  demand  of  yesterd  \y.  He  requested  that 
I,  with  the  traders  would  listen."  A  soldier,  then  called  the  Lit- 
|f  Thundery  arose  and  said — "  The  chiefs  were  for  giving  up  the 
murderer  present ;  but,  that  it  was  the  opinion  of  the  soldiers,  that 
they  should  themselves  ti.ke  him  with  the  others  to  their  father 


1^:  .  i* 


•J*- 


ii9 


APPEKDIX  TO  i»ART  t 


f 


]   ) 


llf     ' 


t.]ir'i. 


nn 


<(  Butt  that  if  I  prefered  their  taking  one  down  now,  they  would 
«  do  it ;  but,  if  on  the  contrary,  I  expected  all  three,  they  would 
«  immediately  depart  in  pursuit  of  the  others,  and  bring  them  alto- 
"  gether  to  their  father.  That  if  he  did  not  bring  tnem,  he  would 
(( delivei'  himself  up  to  the  Americans."  I  replied-^**  He  must  not 
**  attempt  to  deceive,  that  I  had  before  told  him  that  I  was  not  an* 
•<  thoribed  to  seize  their  men  by  force  of  arms ;  but,  that  I  wished 
<*  to  kiiuw  explicitly,  the  time  when  we  might  expect  them  ut  St. 
"  Louis,  in  order  that  our  general  should  know  what  steps  to  take 
**  in  case  they  did  not  arrive.  That  the  consequence  of  a  non-com* 
«  ptiance  would  be  serious  to  themselves  and  their  children.  Also, 
'( that  they  had  recently  hoisted  a  British  flag  near  this  place,  which, 
«  had  I  have  been  here,  I  should  have  prevented.  I  advised  tbem 
"  to  bring  their  British  flags  and  medals  down  to  St.  Louis,  to  de< 
«  liver  them  up,  and  receive  others  in  exchange."  Their  reply  was, 
**  in  ten  days  to  the  Prairie,  and  from  thence  to  St  Louis,  in  ten 
"  days  more.'*  t\ 

Held  a  council  with  the  Sioux,  in  which  the  chiefs  of  the  Y^nc* 
tongs,  Sussitongp,  Sioux,  of  the  head  of  the  De  Moyen,  and  part  of  the 
Oens  Du  Lac  was  present.  W  abasha  first  spoke,  in  answer  to  my 
speech,  wherein  I  recapitulated  the  conduct  of  the  Sauteurs— ^their 
desire  and  willingness  for  peace— their  arrangements  for  next  sum* 
iher— the  pipes  they  had  sent.  Sec.  Also,  the  wish  of  the  general 
for  some  of  the  chiefs  to  descend  below.  Recommended  the  situa- 
tion and  grM)d  intentions  of  the  young  chiefs  at  the  mouth  of  the  St. 
Peters,  to  the  others ;  and  that  they  should  give  them  assistance  to 
keep  the  bad  men  in  awe. 

They  all  acquiesced  in  the  peace  with  the  Sauteurs,  but  said 
^enferally,  that  they  doubted  their  bad  faith ;  as  they  had  experienceii 
it  many  a  time.  The  Nez  Corbeau  said  he  had  been  accused  ofj 
being  hired  to  kill  Mr.  Dixon,  which  he  here  solemnly  denied  everj 
having  been  instigated  to  any  such  action. 

The  J\innere  Rouge,  then  arose  and  sB^A^^ealouiy  was  in  a  grei 
measure,  the  principal  cause  of  his  descending.  That  if  ever  any  tn 
der  had  any  cause  to  complain  of  him,  that,  now  let  him  do  it  publici] 
That  last  year  an  officer  went  up  the  Missouri--gave  flags  and  mcdi 
•M.made  chiefs,  and  played  the  devil  and  all.  That  this  year  the  liqui 
was  restricted  to  the  Indians  on  the  Louisiana  side,  and  permitu 
on  this.    Ije  wished  to  know  the  reason  of  those  arrangements,  ■cntx.ki 

I  replied,  that  the  officer  who  ascended  the  Missouri,  tnl    Havijl 
tuthorised  by  their  father ;  and  that  to  make  chiefs  of  them,  {ifous  murl 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  I. 


•» 


they  would 
g  ihem  a^to* 
,„,  be  vouW 
He  mutt  not 
L  v»«  not  fttt* 
hat  I  w»*^** 
ct  them  ftt  St. 
X  atep5  to  taVe 
of  ft  non-com* 
hUdren.    A\», 
is  place,  which, 
1  adviacd  them 
it.  LoulB,  to  de- 
Their  reply  was, 
St    Louis,  in  ten 

.iefsofthe^nc. 
^en,ft«dpftVtoUhe 
,  in  answer  to  wy  ^ 
le  Sauteurs— theit 
Icntsfornextsum. 

iahofthe  general! 
^.n^endedthesuua- 

^etnouthoftheSt, 
themfts^awuceto 

.Saute«rs,butMi4 
Lyhadexperiencti 
Ld  been  accused  (< 
Lemnly  denied  e«>] 

LoM6ywaain*8«i 
That  if  ever  any  tvj 

hethimdoitpubUdJ 

LaveflagsandH 

,?attbisyearthehqj 

a  side,  and  perm^i^l 
lose  arrangcmenw. 
\a  the  Missouri, 

,e  chiefs  of  th<^^'' 


was  what  I  now  invited  them  down.  But  that  fof  the  liquor,  it  was 
too  long  an  explanation  to  give  them  here  ;  but  that  it  would  be  ex* 
plained  to  them  below— and  that  in  a  very  abort  time  the  liquor 
would  be  restricted  on  both  aidet  of  the  river. 

The  Puanta  in  the  evening,  came  to  the  houtCi  and  Macra* 
ragah,  alias  the  Merchant,  spoke— >l'hat  last  aprtng  he  had  em- 
barked to  go  down  to  St.  Louis ;  but,  that  at  De  Buques,  the  Rey- 
nards g-ive  back.  That  when  he  saw  me  last  autumn,  he  gave  me  his 
hand  without  shame  ;  but,  that  since  it  had  pleased  the  father  of  life 
to  cover  them  with  shame— thatnow  they  felt  themselves  miserable. 
But  implored  me  to  present  their  ^aga  and  medaU  to  the  general,  as 
a  proof  of  their  good  intentions  }  and  that  when  I  arrived  at  St. 
Louis,  to  assure  the  general  they  were  not  far  behind.    (The  chiefs 
and  the  soldiers  would  follow  with  the  murderers ;  but  begged  I 
would  make  their  road  clear,  Sec.  Sec.)    Delivered  his  pipe  and  flag. 
Karamone  then  npoke  (with  apparent  difficulty),  assured  of  the 
shame,  disgrace  and'tlistress  of  their  nation,  that  hA  would  fulfil 
vhat  the  others  had  said  ;  and  that  he  seat  by  me  the  medal  of  his 
fother,  which  he  considered  himself  as  no  longer  worthy  to  wear 
(putting  it  round  my  neck  trembling),  and  begged  me  to  intercede 
with  the  general  in  their  favor,  &c.  Sec. 

I  assured  him  that  the  American  nation  was  a  generous  nation^ 
not  confounding  the  innocent  with  the  guilty ;  that  when  they  had 
delivered  up  the  three  or  four  dogs  who  had  covered  them  with 
blood,  we  would  again  look  on  them  as  our  children ;  to  take  cou- 
rage, that,  if  they  did  well  they  should  be  treated  well ;  that  I 
would  tell  the  general  every  thing  relative  to  ilie  affair;  also,  their 
repentance,  and  determination  to  deliver  themselves  and  the  mur^ 
derers,  and  explain  about  their  flags  and  medals. 


[  No.  13.  3 

^tiee  to  Messrs.  Camfihell  and  Fisher^  for  takins^  depositions  against 

the  murderers  qf  the  Puant  nation. 

* 

Prairie  des  Chiens,  aoth  April,  i8o6. 

|EKTLKMEV, 

Having  demanded  of  the  Puants  the  authors  of  the  late  atro- 
pus  murders ;  and  understanding  that  it  is  their  intentions  to  deli* 


im 


iUiJi. . 


m 

■i5i:l 


Y\ 

II 

i 

1 

m 

^1 

fe, 

ifM 

MJH 

St  APPENDIX  TO  PART  I. 

ver  them  to  me,  I  have  to  request  of  yon,  as  mafi^Htrates  of  thi« 
territory,  that  you  will  now  have  all  the  depositions  of  those  facts 
taken,  which  it  is  in  your  power  to  procure  ;  and,  if,  at  any  future 
period  previous  to  the  final  decisions  of  their  fate,  further  proofs  can 
be  obtained,  that  you  will  have  them  properly  authenticated  and  for- 
warded to  Ids  excellency  general  Wilkinson. 
I  am,  gentlemen, 

With  respect, 
^ .  Your  obedient  servant, 

(Signed)  2.  M.  Pike,  Lt. 


[  No.  U.  ] 

Fcrt  St.  Louit,  26th  May,  IS06. 

DEAn  Sir,  I 

I  had  hitherto  detained  the  medals  and  flags,  intending  to  have 
presented  them  to  you  at  the  final  conclusion  of  my  vouchers,  on 
the  subject  of  my  correspondence  with  the  savages.  But  in  order 
that  the  general  might  know  of  whom  I  had  obtained  medals  and 
flags,  I  gave  him  a  ihemorandum  when  I  handed  in  my  vouchers  on 
the  subject  of  the  N.  W.  company. 

But  I  have  thought  proper  to  send  them  by  the  bearer,  marked , 
with  the  names  of  th<  chiefs  from  whom  I  detained  them. 

I  also  send  you  a  pipe  and  beaver  robe  of  the  Tonnere  Rouge,  I 
■s  they  are  the  handsomest  of  any  which  I  received  on  the  whole! 
route.  I  have  several  other  pipes,  two  sacks,  and  one  robe  ;  but  as  I 
they  bore  no  particular  message,  I  conceived  the  general  would  lookl 
on  it  as  a  matter  of  no  consequence  ;  and  indeed,  none  except  the] 
Sauteurs  were  accompanied  by  a  talk,  but  just  served  as  the  emi 
blem  of  the  good  will  of  the  moment.  I  likewise  send  the  skinsf 
of  the  Lynx  and  Brelaw,  as  the  general  may  have  an  opportunity  toj 
forward  them. 

Some  gentlemen  have  promised  me  a  male  for  my  dog :  if  I 
obtain  him,  the  pair,  or  the  single  one  with  the  f.leigh,  is  at  the  gcj 
neral's  service  to  be  transmitted  to  the  states  as  we  had  determinej 
on.  I  mentioned  in  my  memorandums  the  engagements  I  waj 
Under  relative  to  the  flags  or  medals,  and  should  any  early  commij 
nications  be  made  with  that  country,  I  hope  the  subject  may  not  li 
forgotten.    I  have  labelled  each  article,  with  the  name  ©f  thoj 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  I. 


Ml 


those  facts 

any  fuwre 

er  proofs  can 

;aied  and  for- 


rat/,  1806. 

intemVmKtohavf 
,ny  vouchers,  on 
,e5.     But  in  order 
;«inccl  wedals  and 
in  my  vouchers  on 

^l,e  bearer,  marked  I 

,ei\  them. 
,eTonnere  Rouge. 

eWedonthewWel 

\a  one  robe  ;  b«'.  ^\ 
general  wouWiai 

Pd,  none  except  tht| 
tservedastheein. 

,Ue  send  the  staJ 
ive  an  opportunity  iJ 

Le  for  my  dog -.« I 
t  f.leigh,  is  at  the  sej 
L  we  had  determind 
1  engagements  1  «^ 

L\  any  early  coH 

L  subject  may  not 

1    the  name  •»  tno 


from  whom  I  obtained  them— «lso,  the  names  of  the  diflercnt 

1  am,  sir, 

With  esteem  and  high  consideralten, 

Your  obedient  servant, 
(Signed)  Z.  M.  PiKK,Lt. 

Omeral  Jamea  Wilkttuon. 

[My  faith  was  pledged  to  the  savage  chiefs  for  th::  replacing  of 
the  medals  and  flags  of  the  British  government,  which  they  surren* 
dered  me,  by  others  of  the  same  magnitude  of  the  United  States ; 
but  owing  to  the  change  of  agents,  and  a  variety  of  circumstances, 
it  was  never  fulfilled.  This  has  lefl  a  number  of  the  Sioux  and 
Suuteur  chiefs  without  their  distinguishing  marks  of  dignity,  and 
has  induced  them  to  look  on  my  conduct  toward  them  as  a  premedi- 
tated  fraud,  and  would  render  my  life  in  danger,  should  I  ever  return 
amongst  them,  and  the  situation  of  any  other  officer  who  should  pre- 
sume to  make  a  similar  demand  e^^vemely  delicate  ;  besides  it  has 
compromitted  tlie  faith  of  our  government  with  those  .savage  war- 
riors, which,  to  enable  ai: '  government  ever  to  do  good,  should  be 
lield  inviolate.]  ' 


[  No.  15.  ] 

Bilie/ofitainej  2d  July,  1 806. 
Dear  Sir, 

I  have  at  length  finished  all  my  reports,  observations,  and  jour- 

Inals,  which  arose  from  my  late  voyage  to  the  source  of  the  Missis- 
sippi, and  hope  they  may  prove  interesting,  from  the  information,  on 

|difi'erent  subjects,  which  they  contain. 

I  perceive  that  I  differ  materially  from  capt.  Lewis,  in  my  ac- 

jcount  of  the  numbers,  manners,  and  murals  of  the  Siuux.     But  our 

jreception  by  that  nation  (at  the  first  interview)  being  so  diflcrent,  it 

K'  doubt  left  an  impression  on  our  minds,  which  may  have  (unknown 

|o  i  urselvcs)  given  a  cast  to  our  observations  ;  but  I  will  not  only 

jouch  for  the  authenticity  of  my  account  as  to  numbers,  arms,  kc. 

[roni  my  own  notes,  but  from  having  had  Uiem  revised  and  cor- 

ected  by  a  gentlenmn  of  liberal  education,  tvho  has  resided  eighteen 

jears  in  that  nation,  speaks  their  language,  and  for  some  years  past 


^1 

l\ 

¥ 

^ 

.1 

y 

i'M 

m' 

,  tl 

5hI 


St 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  I. 


has  been  collecting  materiali  for  their  natural  and  phtlotophical 
history. 

I  have  not  attempted  to  give  an  account  of  nations  of  Indians 
whom  I  did  not  visit  except  the  Mtinnibointy  who,  from  their  intU 
mate  connection  with  the  Sioux  (in  a  lineal  point  of  view)  it  would 
have  been  improper  to  have  left  out  of  the  cutaloo^ue. 

The  correctness  of  the  geographical  parts  of  the  voyage  I  will 
vouch  for,  as  I  spared  neither  time,  fatigue,  nor  danger,  tu  sec  my. 
self  every  part  connected  with  my  immediate  route. 

I'he  general  already  knows,  at  the  time  I  left  St.  Louis,  there 
were  no  instruments  proper  for  celestial  observations  (excepting 
those  which  he  furnished  me,  which  were  inadcquute  to  tuking  the 
longitude)  ;  neither  had  I  the  proper  tables  nor  authors  to  accom* 
plinh  that  object,  but  it  can  no  doubt  be  ascertained,  by  various  charts, 
at  different  points  of  my  route  ;  neitlier  had  I  proper  time-pieces  nor 
instruments  for  meteorological  observations.  Those  made  were 
from  an  imperfect  instrument  I  purchased  in  the  town  of  St.  Louis, 
I  do  not  possess  the  qualifications  of  the  naturalist,  and  even 
had  they  been  mine,  it  would  have  been  impossible  to  have  gratified 
them  to  any  great  extent,  as  we  passed  with  rapidity  over  the  coun- 1 
try  we  surveyed,  which  was  covered  with  snow  six  months  out  of  j 
the  nine  I  was  absent.  And  indeed,  my  thoughts  were  too  much  i 
engrossed  in  making  provisions  for  the  exigencies  of  the  murrow,to 
attempt  a  science  which  requires  time  and  a  placidity  of  mind  whicii  [ 
seldom  fell  to  my  lot. 

The  journal  in  itself  will  have  little  to  strike  the  imagination,^ 
but  a  dull  detuil  of  cur  daily  march,  and  containing  many  notesi 
which  should  have  come  into  the  geographic  it  part ;  others,  of  dA 
servations  on  the  savage  character,  and  many  that  were  never  in- 
tended to  have  been  included  m  my  ofiicial  report. 

The  daily  occuircnces  were  written  at  night,  frequently  by  fireJ 
light,  when  extremely  fatigued,  and  the  cold  so  severe  as  to  tVeezi 
the  ink  in  my  pen,  of  course  have  little  claim  to  elegance  of  expresj 
sion  or  style  ;  but  th>ey  have  truth  to  recommend  them,  which, 
always  attended  to,  would  strip  the  pages  of  manyof  our  journalistSi'ming  ti 
of  iheir  most  interesting  occurrences.  The  general  will  please  tWave  tni 
rccoilect  also,  that  I  had  scarcely  t-eturned  to  St.  Louis,  before  tWl')  frienl 
voyage  now  in  contemplation  »4$  proposed  to  me,  and  after  sonWi  shoujj 
considera 4<»n,  my  duty  (and  inclination  in  some  respects)  induceBi  life. 
me  to  utxie-.rtake  it.  m  e«emy| 

'\t:    (*parauons  for  my  new  voyage  prevented  the  possibiliWmustpi 
of  raj  f^*\  uig  that  attention  to  the  correction  of  my  errors,  ths  pontiadid 


Intfr 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  I. 


ts 


,ntt  of  Indian* 
am  ihelrinu- 
/lew)  "  would 


iUe  the  imaginauonj 
,,ining  tnauy  noWl 
,^,,t;  others,  of  0.1 

kit  vrere  ncvct 

k'frcquentVybyfirt- 

severe  UB  to  tree" 
elegance  of  exprei 
»end  thein,  vrhich, 
aT,yofourjovmwW 
.eneral  v^Ul  pleuse 
1  St.  Louis,  before 
^e,  and  after  SOI 

spects)  uiduci 


kne 


real 


,ented  the  poi 
of  my 


ssibil 


errors, 


llVi' 


should  otherwise  have  done.  ThU,  with  the  foregoing;  reasMt,  will, 
I  hope,  be  deemed  a  sufficient  apology  for  the  numerous  errorti  tau.- 
tolugies  and  egotisms  which  will  appear. 
I  am,  dear  general, 

With  great  respect, 

Your  obedient  servanti 
(Signed)  Z.  M.  Pikk,  Lt.  1st.  Regt.  Infty. 

Generai  Jamet  WUieinton, 


[  No.  16.  ] 

Initructiona  delivtred  to  tergeant  Hmry  Kfimermany  at 

Piite  creek  rafiidtj  Oct.  1,  1801.* 

YOU  are  to  remain  here  with  the  party  under  your  command} 
subject  to  the  following  instructions :  viz. — Your  guards  to  consist 
of  one  non-commissioned  oiBcer  and  three  privates,  yourself  mount- 
ing in  regular  rotation,  making  one  centinel  by  day  and  by  night ; 
ami,  until  your  position  is  inclosed  by  pickets,  every  man  is  to  be 
employed  on  that  object ;  after  which  Sparks  is  to  be  employed  in 
hunting :  but  this  will  by  no  means  excuse  him  from  his  tour  of 
guard  at  night  when  in  the  stockade  ;  but  he  must  be  relieved  dur- 
ing the  day  by  another  man. 

Should  any  Indians  visit  you  previous  to  having  your  works 

complete,  divide  your  men  between  til*  two  block  houses,  and  on  no 

|tonditions  suffer  a  savage  to  enter  iiM»  the  one  where  the  stores 

re,  and  not  more  than  one  or  two  «.fto  the  other :  but  should  you  be 

fortunate  as  not  to  be  discovervd  until  your  works  are  (completed) 

m  may  admit  three,  without  arms,  and  no  more,  to  enter  at  once— 

the  same  time  always  treating  tkem  with  as  much  friendship  as  is 

insistent  with  your  own  safety. 

You  are  furnished  with  some  tobacco  to  present  them  with ; 

t  on  no  condition  do  you  ever  give  them  one  drop  of  liquor,  in- 

rming  them  I  have  taken  it  all  with  me.   From  the  arrangements 

ave  made  with  the  Sioux  it  is  presumable  they  will  treat  you 

ith  friendship  ;  but  the  Chipeways  may  be  disposed  to  hostilities, 

I  should  you  ever  be  attacked,  calculate  on  surrendering  with 

life.  Instruct  your  men  not  to  fire  at  random,  nor  ever,  unless 

enemy  is  near  enough  to  make  him  a  fioint  blank  shot     This 

mii  ^t  particularly  attend  to,  and  punish  the  first  man  found  acting 

oniradiction  thereto.-    The  greatest  economy  must  be  used  with 


i 


FH? 


.        It 


"^  \<m' 


"I 


i'l   ' 


34 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  I. 


the  ammunition  and  provisions :  of  the  latter  I  shall  furnish  Sparks 
his  proportion  ;  and  at  any  time  should  a  man  accompany  him  for  a 
day's  hunt,  furnish  him  with  four  or  five  balls  and  extra  powder,  and 
on  his  return,  take  what  is  left  away  from  him.  The  provisions 
must  be  Issued  agreeably  to  the  following  proportion.  For  foui- 
days  N.  80  lbs.  of  fresh  venison,  elk,  or  bufialoe,  or  60  lbs.  fresh 
bear  meat,  with  one  quart  of  salt  for  that  period.  The  remainder  of 
what  is  killed  keep  in  the  open  air  and  frozen,  if  so,  as  long  as  pos- 
sible, or  salt  and  smoke  it,  so  as  to  lay  up  meat  for  my  party,  and  us 
all,  to  descend  the  river  with.  If  you  arc  obliged,  through  the 
failure  of  your  hunter,  to  issue  out  of  our  reserved  provisions,  you 
will  deliver,  for  four  days,  18  lbs  of  pork  or  bacon,  and  18  lbs.  of 
flour  only.  This  will  be  sufBcient,  and  must,  in  no  instance,  be  ex- 
ceeded. 

No  whiskey  will  be  issued  after  the  present  barrel  is  exhausted, 
at  half  a  gill  per  man  per  day.  Our  boats  ».rc  turned  up  near  your 
gate  :  you  will  make  a  barrel  of  pitch,  and  give  them  a  ccmplete 
repairing  ready  for  us  to  descend  in. 

I  have  delivered  to  you  my  journals  and  observation^  to  this  j 
place,  with  a  letter  accompanying  them  to  his  excellency  general  I 
Japies  Wilkinson,  which,  should  I  not  return  by  the  time  hereafter 
specified,  you  will  convey  to  him  and  deliver  personally,  requeftlDM 
bis  permission  to  deliver  the  others  committed  to  your  charge. 

You  will  observe  the  strictest  discipline  and  justice  in  your] 
command.  I  expect  the  men  will  conduct  themselves  in  suchal 
manner  that  there  will  be  no  complaints  to  be  made  on  my  return,  and] 
that  they  will  be  ready  to  account  to  a  hi^^her  tribunal.  The  dateal 
my  return  is  uncertain  ;  but  let  no  information  or  reports,  except! 
from  under  my  own  hand,  induce  you  to  quit  this  place  until  ontl 
month  after  the  ice  has  broke  up  at  the  head  of  the  river,  when,  iff 
am  not  arrived,  it  is  reasonable  to  suppose  that  some  disastrod 
events  detain  us,  and  you  may  repair  to  St.  Louis.  You  are  tauglj 
to  tliscriminate  between  my  baggage  and  the  United  States' pn 
perty.  The  latter  deliver  to  the  assistant  military  agent  at  St.  LouiJ 
titking  his  veceipts  for  the  same — the  former,  if  in  your  power,l[ 
Mrs.  iMke. 

Your  party  is  regularly  supplied  wilh  provisions^  to  include  t 
8th  December,  1805,  only,  from  which  time  you  are  entitled  todn 
of  the  United  States. 

(Signed)  Z.  M.  Pikk,  Ll, 


V:- 


IfurowVv  Sparks 

[jpany  \«m  ^^^  ^ 

lira  powder,  and 

The  pro\isioiis 

jrtion.    Fo^fo'i^" 
or  60  lbs.  fresh 
rhe  remainder  ol 
JO,  as  long  as  pos- 
r  my  party,  and  us 
iged,  tbrougVi  the 
ed  provisions,  you 
con,  and  18  lbs.  of 
no  instance,  be  ex- 

barrel  is  exhausted, 
turned  up  near  your 
,e  them  a  ccmpiew 

I  observationp  to  tVis 

is  cxceUcncy  general 
by  the  time  hereafter 
.personally,  teque«UB8| 
d  to  your  charge. 
\  and  justice  in  M 
themselves  m  such. 
Radeon  my  return^ 
.tribunal.   The  dated 
L  or  reports,  exc  j 
it  this  place  until  o« 
of  the  river,  wben,«il 
le  that  some  disaslro. 
'.ouis.    Youaretaugi 
„e  United  States  pr 
,taryagentatSt.Lo. 
.r,if  myourpover, 

Lisions,  to  include 
^  you  are  entitled  to  di 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  L 

[  No.  17.  ] 


S5 


OBSERVATIONS 
On  the  trade,  views,  and  policy  of  the  north  west  coiii- 
pany,  and  the  national  object?  connected  with  their 
commerce,  as  it  interests  the  government  of  the  uni- 
ted states. 
THE  fur  trade  in  Canada,  has  always  been  considered  as  an 
object  of  the  first  importance  to  that  colony ;  and  has  been  cherish- 
ed by  the  respective  governors  of  that  province,  by  every  regulation 
in  their  power,  under  both  the  French  and  English  administrations. 
The  great  and  almost  unlimited  influence  the  traders  of  that  coun- 
try had  acquired  over  the  savages,  was  severely  felt,  and  will  long 
be  remembered  by  the  citizens  on  our  frontiers.    Every  attention 
was  paid  by  the  cabinet  of  St  James,  in  our  treaty  with  Great  Bri- 
udn,    to  secure  to  their  subjects,  (the  Canadians)    the  privilege 
of  the  Indian  trade  within  our  territories,  and  with  what  judgment 
they  have  improved  the  advantages  obtained,  by  the  mother  coun- 
try, time  will  soon  unfold. 

In  the  year  1 766,  the  trade  was  first  extended  from  Michilimack- 
inac,  to  the  north  west,  by  a  few  desperate  adventurers,  whose 
mode<of  life  on  the  voyage,  and  short  residence  in  civilized  so- 
ciety, obiained  for  them,  the  appellation  of  "  Coureurs  des  fiois." 
From  those  trifling  beginings,  arose  the  present  north  west  compai^, 
who  notwithttanding  the  repeated  attacks  made  on  their  trade,  have 
withstood  every  shock,  and  are  now,  by  the  coalition  of  the  late  X. 
|Y.  company,  established  on  so  firm  a  basis,  as  to  bid  defiance  to 
irery  opposition,  which  can  be  made  by  private  individuals. 

They,  by  a  late  purchase  of  the  king's  posts  in  Canada,  extend 
[heir  line  of  trade  from  Hudson's  Bay,  to  the  St.  Lawrence,  up  that 
iveronboth  sides,  to  the  l^akes— from  thence  to  the  head  of  Lake 
iuperior,  at  which  place  the  t.orth  west  company  have  their  head 
larters ;  from  thence  to  the  source  of  Red  river,  and  on  all  its 
ributary  streams,  through  the  country  to  the  Missouri — through 
le  waters  of  Lake  Winipie,  to  the  Saskashawin,  on  that  river  to 
source — up  Elk  river  to  the  lake  of  the  Hilis — up  Peace  river  to 
le  Rocky  mountams — from  the  lake  of  the  Hills,  up  Slave  river  to 
ive  Lake,  and  this  year  have  dispatched  a  Mr.  Mackenzie  on  a 
yage  of  trade  and  discovery  down  Mackenzie's  river,  to  the  north 
and  also  a  Mr.  M'Coy,  to  cross  the  Rocky  mountains,  and  pro- 
id  to  the  western  ocean  with  the  same  objects  in  vi»vv.  They 
e  had  a  gentleman  liy  the  name  of  Thompson,  making  a  geogra- 
bl  survey  of  the  north  west  part  of  the  continent— who,  for 


?mII>i 

Hi 


I 


m 


^ 


3ft 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  I. 


T<i, 


^$ 


three  years,  with  an  astonishing  sfurit  of  enterprise  and  perseverance, 
passed  over  all  that  extensive  and  unknown  country.  His  establish- 
ment, although  not  splendid,  (the  mode  of  travelling  not  admitting 
it)  was  such,  as  to  admit  of  the  most  unlimited  expences  in  every 
thing  necessary  to  facilitate  his  enquiries ;  and  he  is  now  engaged 
in  digesting  the  important  results  of  his  enterprise.  I  find  from  the 
observations  and  suggestions  of  Mr.  Thompson,  that  when  at  the 
source  of  the  Mississippi,  it  was  his  opinion  the  line  of  limits  be* 
tween  the  United  States  and  Great  Britain,  must  run  such  a  course, 
from  the  head  of  the  lake  of  the  Woods,  as  to  touch  the  source  of 
the  Mississippi ;  and  this  I  discovered  to  be  the  opinion  of  the  north 
west  company,  whom,  we  may  suppose,  or  reasonably  conclude, 
apeak  the  language  held  forth  by  their  government.  The  admission 
of  this  pretension,  will  throw  out  of  our  territory  all  the  upper  part 
of  Red  river,  and  nearly  two  fifths  of  the  territory  of  Louisidna. 
Whereas,  if  the  line  be  run  due  west  from  the  head  of  the  lake  of  the 
Woods,  it  will  cross  Red  river  nearly  at  the  entrance  of  Reed  river, 
and  it  is  conjectured  strike  the  western  ocean  at  Birch  Bay,  in 
Queen  Charlotte  Sound.  Those  diiferences  of  opinion,  it  is  pre- 
sumed, might  be  easily  adjusted  between  the  two  governments,  at 
the  present  day,  but  it  is  believed  that  delays  by  unfolding  the  true  i 
value  of  the  country,  may  produce  difficulties,  which  do  not  at  pre* 
sent  exist.  The  north  west  company,  have  made  establishments  at  I 
several  places  on  the  south  side  of  Lake  Superior,  and  on  the  head  j 
waters  of  the  rivers  Sauteaux  and  St.  Croix,  which  discharge  them- 
selves into  the  Mississippi.  The  first  I  met  with  on  the  voyage  up,] 
was  at  Lower  Red  Cedar  Lake,  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  niiles,| 
above  the  Isle  de  Corfeau,  being  on  the  east  side  of  the  river, 
distant  therefrom  six  miles.  It  is  situated  on  the  north  point  of  the| 
lake,  and  consists  of  log  buildings,  flanked  by  picketed  bastions  c 
two  of  its  angles.  The  next  establishment  I  met  with,  was  situate 
on  Sandy  Lake  ;  for  a  description  of  which,  see  document  marke^ 
A*.  Midway  between  Sandy  Lake  and  Leech  Lake,  is  a  small  ho 
not  worthy  of  notice.  On  the  south  west  side  of  the  latter  lake,  fn 
the  outlet  of  the  Mississippi,  stand  the  head  quarters  of  the  Foi 
du  Lac  department ;  for  information  relative  to  which,  have  refeij 
cnce  to  document  marked  Bf  Here  resides  the  director  of  this  ( 
partment.  In  document  C.|  is  a  recapitulation  of  the  specific  an 
cles  of  11 5  packs  of  peltry,  which  will  give  an  idea  of  the  wholj 
amounting  per  said  voucher  to  233  packs  per  annum  in  the  Fondij 

*  See  A.  Appendix  part  I.  page  38.    f  lb.  B.  p.  38.    \  lb.  table  C.  k 
page  40. 


•See 

^Sce 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  I. 


,.38.    tIb.ublcC.  fat 


Lac  department.    Document  D  •  ^i„       ,.  '  ^' 

taion  raadc  by  .  „n,] V™       ^  ''  *'"»'"->«>,  which  hi.     ■ 
keen  eighteen  ;e;«T.l?,":,°'  ""'""  '""  '"f"™  ut^l  k"" 

^ch  Lake,  Red  Lake,  &c    IT""''''    "  ''"'*  '^^'^^  ''^  S«We 
I  goods  for  Red  River  rif  ;!  •      .    ^'  ^^-    '  am  aJso  of  nn.v-  ' 

Jin  preference  to  beli  ''"'^^"  °"'-  boundary)  ^ol^i"'""'  *^'« 

tLatthe  charterof  tL  Tr''°"^^"^-    ^^  i'wo;  '  of      '"^' 

;p«ifiec.  Which':  ',t7e:"r''  "<»'"'=""-  .hr^oXt"^!'' 

W^f  .he  iat.  of  .,,  ;;;^^/-  -.1.  of  .he  „e«  iine.'^™!" 

h«:sX;tr:in:;"t:n;'»"'  •»  p--  -..ir  .«■<..  ,o,„ 

pckinac  J  but  I  gave  thL  ?  ^^  ""^^  ^^^  traders  of  Mj!km- 

•»«I>..PP..<I,-.P„.,  '^' U- S- Reg..  Infty. 


iWiL 


"ft 


'f. 


«   .»     til 

J 


*-    ^1 


AiVPENDIX  TO  PART  I. 


■,'i?. 


i:Sv'-l 


NOTES 

TO  THE  PRECEDING  «  OBSERVATIONS,"  ifc. 

A. 

L  ^icrifition  of  the  JV.  IV.  comfiany*a  fort  at  Sandy  lake. 

The  fort  at  Sandy  lake  is  situated  on  the  south  ude  of  the  lake,  near  the  E 
end,  and  is  a  stockade  of  loo  feet  square,  with  Bastions  at  the  S.  £.  and  N.  W. 
angles,  pierced  for  small  arms. 

The  pickets  are  squared  on  the  outside,  round  within  of  about  one  foot  dia- 
meter, and  are  13  feet  above  ground. 

There  are  three  gates :  the  principal  one  fronts  the  lake  on  the  N.  and  is  10 
feet  by  9,  the  one  on  the  W.  6  feet  by  4,  the  one  on  the  £.  6  feet  by  5.  As  you 
enter  hy  the  main  gate  you  have  on  the  left  a  building  of  one  story  ao  fe^t  square, 
the  r«8  Jence  cf  the  superintendant.  Opposite  to  this  house,  on  the  left  of  the  E. 
gate  is  a  house  15  feet  by  15,  the  quarters  of  the  men.  On  entering  the  W.  gute 
you  find  the  store  house  on  the  right,  30  feet  by  ao,  and,  on  your  left,  a  building 
40  feet  by  ao  which  contains  rooms  for  clerks,  a  work-shop,  and  provision-store. 

On  the  W.  and  N.  W.  is  an  enclosure  of  about  4  acres  picketed  in ;  in  which 
last  year  they  raised  400  bushels  of  Irish  potatoes,  cultivating  no  other  vegetable. 
In  this  enclosure  is  a  very  ingeni$uily  constructed  vault  to  contain  the  potatoes,  but 
which  likewise  has  tteret  apartments,  to  conceal  liquors,  dry  goods,  /^c. 

B. 

JDe^riJition  of  the  A*  IV.  company's  fort  at  Leech  lakCf  in  Fcbmary, 

1806. 

The  fort  is  situated  on  the  W.  side  of  the  lake,  in  47°  16'  13"  N.  lat.  It  i»  I 
built  near  the  shore,  on  the  declivity  of  a  1  ising  ground,  having  an  enclosed  gardes 
of  about  5  acres  on  the  N.  W.  It  is  a  square  stockade  of  Ijo  feat,  the  pickets  be- 
ing 16  feet  in  length,  3  feet  under,  and  13  above  the  ground,  and  are  bound  together  I 
by  horizontal  bars,  each  10  feet  long.  Pickets  of  10  feet  are  likewise  drove  into  I 
the  ground,  on  the  inside  of  the  work,  opposite  the  apertures  between  the  latpl 
pickets.     At  the  W.  and  £   angles  are  square  bastions  pierced  for  fire  aims. 

The  main  building  in  the  rear,  fronting  the  lake,  is  60  feet  by  35,  X  l-a  itoryj 
high ;  the  W.  end  of  which  is  occupied  by  the  director  of  the  Fond  du  Lac  d^l 
pai-tnient.  He  has  a  hall  18  feet  square,  bed-roum  and  kitchen,  with  an  officcj 
The  centre  is  a  trading  shop  of  la  l-a  feet  squate,  with  a  bed-room  in  the  rcaro 
the  same  dimensions.  The  E.  end  is  a  large  store  25  feet  by  no,  under  which  thcr{| 
is  an  ice-house  well  filled.  The  loh  extends  over  the  whole  building,  and  contain 
bales  of  goods,  packs  of  peltrief/;  also  chests  with  500  bushels  of  wild  rice, 
sides  the  ice-house  there  are  cellars  under  all  the  other  parts  of  the  building.  Tkl 
doors  and  window-shutters  arc  musket -proof. 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  I. 


if  about  one  foot  dia> 

5  on  the  N.  and  is  10 
6  feet  by  5'    A»you 
iC  story  40  fcjt  square, 
;,  on  the  left  of  the  E. 
1  entering  the  W.  gate 
in  your  left,  a  building 
and  provision-store. 
I  picketed  in ;  in  which 
in^  no  other  vegetable, 
intain  the  potatoes,  but 
f  goods,  /'cc. 


:h  lake,  in  February^ 

^0i6'i3"N.lat.    It  i» 
iving  an  enclosed  garden 
150  feat,  the  pickets k' 
d,  and  arc  bound  togetho 
:t  are  likewise  drove  into 
srtures  between  the  large 
;rced  for  fire  arras. 
6ofeetbya5.  li-»"'"7 
of  the  Fond  du  Lac  dt- 
d  kitchen,  with  an  offi«. 
a  bed-room  in  the  rear 
by  ?,o,  under  which  thcrt 
iiolc  building,  and  contaim 
bushels  of  wild  rice.    B* 
irts  of  the  building.    Tk 


Thefirtce  of  e-oodg  in  ^^^t. 

J  Sooas  tn  exchange  v>ith  the  Indians  nf  ti  ■ 

'""'»»  fif  this  quarter,  vi~. 


B^kcta,3and,x.,p„i„,^,^^ 
"?""  »        ditto,        . 

Ditto  T  T   ,    A.. 

*  i-a  ditto, 
Blue  strouds,  per  fathom. 
Scarlet  cloth,  8-6 

J^orsted  binding,  p,r  piece*       .     ' 
vermillioii,  per  pound, 

Jfolten  blue  and  white,  pe;  fathom, 
Gu  jpowder,  per  half  pint, 

^  "».  30  per     .  ^ 

5«ot  of  all  sorts,  per  handful.    * 
I  Tobacco,  per  carrot,     . 

I  Twist  tobacco,  per  fathom, 
|B«ver  traps,  each,        . 
IHalfaxes,  .  ^       ' 

JCastites, 

If- W.  Guns,  each, 

iiives. 


plus  4 

% 

•      I 

4' 
•      6 

4 
4 
2 
X 
X 

I 

4 

I 

4 
% 
I 

10 

Z 


Dtlhru 


8 

4 

a 

8 

li 

8 

8 

4 

a 
a   ■ 


a 
8 
4 
a 
ao 

2 


Wampum  aad  silver  wort.    ♦!,       •  '  '  ^ 

^ '  '"*  *»  »h»  prime  cwt.  "^'  "  "'«'« two  hundred  and  fifty 

<3eo.  Anberson. 


>t* 


\  i 

ijf. 

1 

P' '' 

I-' 

r 

r 

5 

1 

! ., 
1  '^*' 

'  \ 
t 

t 
1 

1 

1 

r 

m 


40 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  I. 
E. 


(      Bttum  of  men  tmftloyrd  in  the  M  W.  comfiany*s  deftattment  t^f  Jtond 
j  du  Lac,  with  the  amount  qf  their  tvaget  fter  annum,  Ifc. 


IS° 

Women  and  chil- 

'.8 

*    at 

Jren  belonging  to 
theeanbUBhment. 

/s&  . 

^J  s 

• 

. 

tt  g.«  s 

S 

•3 

Accooi 

and  m 

rpretcr 

interpr 

0 

t 

• 

i 

i|.a 

^ 

1 

h 

o 

3     19 

a 

is 

109   19 

SO 

79 

tarn  «f  the  wages  per  annum  of  the  a'ove  109  men, 
ATcrage  wages  of  each  man,  .  . 

Due  by  the  N.  W.  company,  .       -     .  . 

Due  to  ditto,       .       -    •       '    •  * 

'  FOR  1805. 


*3i9i3il«wej. 

586!  1 

39,566    8 

•      34.336  16 


N.  B.  The  above  women  are  all  Indian)),  there  not  being  »  sin^     -rhite  w»  I 
man  N.  W.  of  Lake  Superior. 


SO" 

Fror 

fnediatd 

pat  a 

'small 

McalJc 

Ffiftec 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  I. 


«i 


icing  »*»»t 


[  No.  18.  ] 
OBSERVATIONS 


)  -'iisif 


OK  THE  SOIL,  BH0RB8,  qVAKRIKS,  TtMBBK^  IBLAXDSt  EAPIDSi  COM* 
VLUENT  STREAMS,  HIGHLANDS,  PIIaIRIES  ;  THE  SAVAGES  AND 
SETTLEMENTS  WHICH  I  MET  WITH  ON  MY  VOYAGE  W  THE  MIS* 
SISSIPNy  rROM  S^.  LOUIS  TO  ITS  SOURCE. 

From  St.  Louis  to  the  mouth  of  the  Mir.«ouii  oi.  the  east,  is 
a  rich  sanay  soil,  timbered  with  buttonwood,  ash,  cottonwood,  back- 
beny,  Iccr  The  wettt  side  is  highlands  for  a  small  distance  above 
the  town;  then  it  is  bordered  by  a  small  prairie,  after  which  is 
bottom  landiwith  the  samfe  tithber  as  on  the  east.  The  current  is 
rapid,  and  the  navigation,  in  low  water,  obstructed  by  sand  bars. 

Immediatel/  on  the  peninsula  formed  bythe  conflue  c«  of  the 

rivers  Mississippi  and  Missouri  is  a  small  Kickapoo  settle     int,  oc* 

cupied  in  summer  only.    On  the  west  shore  a  rich  prairie,  with 

I  imall  skirts  of  woods ;  and  on  the  east  shore  is  generally  high  hills^ 

I  iiom  eighty  to  one  hundred  feet,  extending  to  the  moutili  of  the  Illi* 

lois.    The  current  of  the  Mississippi,  above  the  entrance  of  the 

I  Missouri  is  quite  mild,  until  you  arrive  at  the  mouth  of  the  Illinois ; 

I  where,  owing  to  the  large  sand-^bars  and  many  islands,  it  is  rendered 

jextremely  rapid.    The  Illinois  river  is  about  four  hundred  and  fifty 

ds  wide  at  its  mouth,  and  bears  from  the  Mbsissippi  N.  75^  W. 

The  current  appears  not  to  exceed  two  and  a  half  miles  per  hour. 

The' navigation  and  connecting' streams  of  this  river  are  too  well 

sown  to  require  a  description  at  the  present  day.  From  the  Illinois 

)the  Buffalo  river  the  £.  shore  is  hills,  but  of  easy  ascent.    Oh 

W.  is  continued  the  prairie,  but  not  always  bordering  on  the 

irer.    Timber,  on  both  sides,  geutsrally  hackberpy,  cottonwood,  and 

|h.  The  BuiTalo  river  comes  in  on  the  W.  shore,  and  appears  to 

s  about  100  yards  wide  at  its  mouth.   It  bears  from  the  Mississippi 

30°  W.    From  the  Illinois  to  this  river  the  navigation  is  by  no 

IS  difficult,  and  the  current  mild. 

From  thence  to  Salt  river  (or  Oahahah)  the  east  shor6  is  either 
[mediately  bounded  by  beautiful  cedar  cliffs,  or  the  ridges  may  be 
)n  at  a  distance.  On  the  W.  shore  there  is  a  rich,  low  soil,  and 
I  small  rivers  which  increase  the  waters  of  the  Mississippi.  The 
It  I  called  Bar  rivery  about  twenty  yards  in  width.  The  second  is 
|ut  fifteen  vards.    Salt  river  bears  from  the  Mississippi  N.  75" 

6 


rt,, 


{I  ' 


i 


':i!r,  ft 


Hi 


h-. 


Mi 


''Is.    I 


43 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  I. 


I  'i 


W.  and  is  about  100  or  120  yards  wide  at  its  entrance,  and,  when  I 
passed,  appeared  to  be  perfectly  mild,  with  scarcely  any  current. 
About  one  day's  sail  up  the  river  there  are  salt  springs,  which  lutve 
been  worked  for  four  years ;  but  I  am  not  informed  as  to  their  qua- 
lities or  productions.  In  this  distance  the  navigation  of  the  Missis, 
sippi  is  yef7  ^uch  obstrycted  by  burs  and  islands.;  indeed,  to  such  a 
degrae  (^s  tP'  render  it  di^icult  to  6nd  (in  niuny  places)  the  proper 
channel.  The  shores  are  jjenerally  a  sandy  soil,  tir^ibcrcd  with  su- 
gar maple,  ash,  pecan,  (oCMSt,  and  black  walnut.  The  E.  side  has 
generally  the  preference  as  to  situations  for  building.  From  this  to 
the  river  Jaustibni  (vrliich  is  our  boundary  between  the  Sac  nation 
and  the  United  States,  on  the  west  side  of  the  Mississippi)  we  have 
the  hills  on  the  W.  shore,  and  low  lands  on  the  £.  the  latter  of  which 
ia  timbered  with  hickoryi  oak,  ash^  maple,  pecan,  &c.  The  former 
the  aaine,  with  >an  increase  of  oak.  The  £.  is  a  rich  sandy  soil,  and 
has  many  very  eligible  situations  for  cultivation.  About  seven  miles 
below  the  JaUstioni  a  Frenchman  is  settled  on  the  W.  shore.  He  is 
married  to  a  woman  of  the  Sac  nation,  and  lives  by  a  little  cultivation 
and  the  Indian  trade.  The  river  befoi^  mentioned  is  about  GO  yards 
wide  at  its  mouth,  and  bears  from  the  Mississippi  about  S.W.  In 
this  pait  of  tine  river  the  navigation  is  good. 

li'rom  this  to  the  Wyaconda  river  the  navigation  is  easy,  with 
very  few  impediments;  and  thfe  soil   on  both  sides  pretty  good. 
U'his  river. pays  its  tvibute^to  the  Mississippi  by  a  mouth  100  yai-dsj 
wide,  and  bears  from  the  latter  ncaiiy  due  W.     Just  below  its  en- 
tnihce  is  a  small  strcain  15  yards  wide,  which  discharges  itself  into] 
the  Mississippi.     Between  this  river  and  the  river  de  Moyen,  tiiere| 
isjone  small  liver  eiriptying  itself  into  the  Mississippi,  on  the  W.  of] 
about  55  yards  tin  width,  and  bears  S.  by  W.     The  first  part  of  tb 
distance  is  obstructed  by  islands,  and  the  river  expands  itself  to i 
gtfcat.  width,  scj  as  to  render  ther navigation  extremely  difficult;  bu 
the  latterpart  ull'urds  mord  watevt  and  is  less  difBcult.     i  he  tiiub 
i& prin«ijpally  oak  and  |)vcau»     The  soil  as  the  river  below;  fori 
des(:ri{Hip(^  of  (le  Moyn^n  bee  thfi  ch^rt  herewith,  and  for  that 
U)e  j'apiiV»i*>y  djary  of  the  20t^  o^f  August. 

Above  the  rapid  de  Moyei^  on  the  VV.  bank  of  the  Mississippj 
is.  Httuutpd  the  lirst  Sac  visage,  consisting  of  I S  lodges ;  and  imr 
diattly  (»ppr)site  is  the  establishment  of  Mr.  £liwhig,  the  Americ 
agent  at.  thatl^lac^.  From  whence  to  -4  large  prairie  on  the  E.  sii^ 
on  )(Chitjh  is  iiilUated.  Uie  second  Sac  village,  the  E.  side  ofi 
river  b.heauiiful  laud,  uut  principally  prairie.  The  W.  is  in  soil 
|iart  high  lund>  both  Mdes  tintbered  with  oak,  asli,  &c.-  The  navia 


ar 


of  for( 

Mrch 

Men  on 

Imerous 

[mines, 

torn  ti 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  I. 


4d 


and,  "Mhm  I 
any  cuvveirt. 
J,  vhkb  \»ve 
^  lo  iheir  quu- 
of  ibc  Mis»w- 
deed,  io  such  a 
ceO  the  proper 
A\,cTedWttV»»^- 

[be  £•  w'^*.^** 
,     Trom  vWw  lo 

nth«iS»c  »*"'*'' 

kc.    The  former 

iVboutBevenmilM 

.W.  shore.   »e» 

vaUtt\eculu*«*« 
:di8ahouiB0y«r» 

S.NV.  l» 


P» 


about 


,\\des  pretty  go^- 
L  a  mouth  \00y^' 
^l  3ustbe\o>v»«*"- 
,,,U.arges  itself^ 

'I'hc  first  part  ot« 

,expa«a^i«ft 
vemely  difficult ;.  ' 

,^  river  below -.for 
,>.Ub.  and  for  that 


tion  is  by  no  means  tlifficult.  From  thence  to  the  Iowa  river  the  na- 
vitiation  is  much  obstructed  with  islands.  *  The  Iowa  river  bears 
from  the  Mississippi  S.  W.  and  is  150  yards  wide  at  its  mouth.  Th« 
£.  shore  of  the  Mississippi  is  high  prairie,  with  yellow  clay  banl&i» 
and  in  some  places  red  si^nd.  On  the  W.  shore  is  prairie,  also,  but 
bounded  on  the  shore  by  skirts  of  woods.  About  10  miles  up  the 
Iowa  river,  on  its  right  bunk,  is  a  village  of  the  low^s. 

From  this  place  to  Rock  river,t  we  generally  had  beautiful 
prairies  on  the  W.  but  in  some  places  very  rich  land,  with  black 
walnut  and  hickory  timber.  Stony  river  is  a  large  river  which  emp- 
ties into  the  Mississippi  on  the  £.  shore,  and  is  about  SOO  yards 
wide  at  its  moutli.  It  bears  from  the  Mississippi  almost  due  £. 
About  three  miles  up  this  river,  on  the  S.  bank,  is  situated  the  third 
town  of  the  Sac  nation,  which  (I  was  informed  by  a  Mr.  James 
Aird)  was  burnt  in  the  year  1781  or  3,  by  about  300  Americans, 
although  the  Indians  had  assembled  700  warriors  to  give'  them  bat- 
tle.   For  a  description  of  the  rapids  of  Stony  river,  see  my  diary  of 

the  28th  August;! 

A  little  above  the  rapids  of  Rock  river,  on  the  W.  side  of  the 
Mississippi,  is  situated  the  first  Reynard  village  :  itjconsists  of  about 
18  lodges.  From  this  place  to  the  lead  mines  the  Mississippi  evi^ 
dently  becomes  narrower ;  but  the  navigation  is  thereby  rendered 
much  less  difficult.  The  shores  are  generally  prairie,  which,  if  not 
Immediately  bordering  .on  the  river,  can  be  seen  through  the  wkirts 
of  forests  which  border  the  river.  The  timber  is  generally  maple,, 
birch  and  oak,  and  the  soil  very  excellent.  To  this  place  ive  had 
leen  only  a  few  turkies  and  deer,  the  latter  of  which  are  pretty  nu- 
imerous  from  the  river  de  Moyen  up.  For  a  description  of  the  lead 
jmines,  see  my  report  from  the  prairie  des  Chiens,  of  the  Sth  Sept.d 
lom  the  lead  mines  unto  Turkey  river,  the  Mississippi  conti« 


itii't 


'.5  f! 


yiV 


^UoftUeMUs«*»W 
V 3  lodges;  and uu 

V,.my;,  the  An,ev. 
^ieontheb.a"! 


*  In  ascending  Iowa  river  36  miles  you  come  to  a  fork,  the  right  branch  of 

jrhich  ii  called  Red  Cedar  river  (from  the  quantity  of  that  wood  on  it*  banks'), 

^ch  is  navigable  for  batteaux  near  300  miles,  where  it  branches  out  into  three 

prks,  called  the  Turkey's  foot.    I'hose  forks  shortly  after  lose  themselves  in  RicC' 

t  Rock  river  takes  its  source  near  Green  bay  of  Lake  Michigan  more  than 
ko  miles  from  its  mouth,  and  is  navigable  upwards  of  300  miles. 

\  Between  the  Iowa  river  and  Turkey  river,  on  the  W.  you  find  the  Wabisi* 
lebn  river.  It  coasts  alung  the  Red  Cedar  river  in  a  parallel  direction,  and 
Ircelf  any  wood  on  its  banks.     The  next  water  met  with  was  the  Great  Maco> 


nruU'i-  -       ^         f  tM"""'  — ■'  """*•  ""  ."M-«r^-.     .....  ..»•-»  ..-..w.  .......  .......  .•—  i..b  '«jic».  r 

|i»c    the  t'  **     .      ^h,and  ao  leagues  higher  is  the  little  river  of  the  same  name.   These  two  rivers 
The  ^V .  i^  ^^^  ^  .V*''  '*>  approach  each  other,  and  have  nothing  remarkable  excepting  lead  mines, 
I        .     5^,,  _.   The  na^'Bich  are  taiJ  to  be  in  their  banks. 
I'  **     *  ■  1  See  Appendix  to  part  I.  [No.  a.]  page  ».    . 


•u. ,  .•if 


H.hl 


<i'l 


III 


.: 


44f 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  I. 


Auet  about  the  san^e  i^idth  ;  and  the  banks,  soil  and  productions 
thh  entinly  simJlar.  "fhe  Turkey  river  empties  in  on  the  W.  bears 
(h)ih  the  Mississippi  about  S.  W.  and  is  about  100  yards  wide  at  its 
mouth.  Half  a  league  up  this  river,  on  the  right  bank,  is  the  third 
village  of  the  Reynards,  at  which  place  they  raise  sufficient  com  to 
supply  all  the  permanent  and  transient  inhabitants  of  the  Prairie 
des  Chiens.  From  thence  to  the  Ouiscousing,  the  high  hills  arc 
perceptible  on  both  sides,  but  on  the  W.  almost  border  the  river  the 
whole  distance.  The  Ou!scousing  at  the  entrance  is  nearly  Inlf  a 
ihile  wide,  and  bears  from  the  Mississippi  nearly  N.  £.    *  This 


l>    ! 


*  The  voyage  from  MiehUImackinac  to  the  PraiHe  det  Chiens,  by  the  Onii* 
oousing  and  Fox  rivers  is  as  fellows :— vw. 

The  distance  between  MiiJulunackinac  and  the  settlement  at  the  bottom  of 
Oreen  bay  is  calculated  to  be  80  leagues.     On  leaving  Michilimackinac  there  i*  t 
traverse  of  five  miles  to  point  St.  Ignace,  which  is  the  entrance  into  Lake  Michi- 
gan.  Four  leagues  from  Michilimackinac  is  an  island  of  considerable  extent,  named 
St.  Helens,  and  may  be  seen  from  that  place  in  a  dear  day.     The  shore  from 
Michilimackinac  to  the  Point  du  Chene,  which  is  a  league  distant  from  the  iiland, 
is  rocky ;  and  from  this  to  the  island  of  Epouvette,  which  ii  a  very  small  one,  and 
stands  near  the  banks  of  the  like,  it  high  and  covered  with  pine— the  soil  very  ba> 
ran.  Fsom  t'liU  island  to  the  river  Mino  Cockien  is  five  leagues.  Two  small  itlindi 
on  the  way,  and  a  river  where  boats  and  canoes  may  take  shelter  from  a  storm.  The  1 
fiver  Mino  Cockien  is  large  and  deep,  and  takes  its  rise  near  Lake  Superior.  From 
this  to  Shouchoir  is  ten  leagues.    The  shore  is  dangerous,  from  the  number  of  ihnb  I 
that  extend  a  great  way  into  the  lake.     This  rock,  called  Shouchoir,  is  an  exceUut  [ 
harbor  for  canoes,  but  its  entrance,  when  the  wind  blows  from  the  lake,  is  difficult;] 
but  when  once  in,  canoes  and  boats  may  lay  during  any  storms  without  unladiog. 
A  custom  prevails  here  among  the  voyagers  for  every  one  to  have  his  name  carredl 
«n  the  rocks  the  first  time  he  passes,  and  pay  something  to  the  canoe*men.    Franl 
this  to  the  river  Manistiqne  is  five  leagues ;  it  is  a  large  river.    The  entrance  i 
difiicult,  from  a  sand-bank  at  its  mouth,  and  the  waves  are  very  high  when  1 
wind  blows  from  the  lake.     At  certain  seasons  is  found  here  sturgeon  in 
nnmbers.    The  bank:*  of  this  river  are  high  and  sandy,  covered  with  pine. 
takes  its  rise  from  a  Lirge  lake,  and  nearly  communicates  with  Lake  Superior.  Fn 
this  to  the  Detoui'  is  ten  leagues;    The  diore  is  rocky,  flat,  and  dangerous, 
begins  the  Traveite  at  the  mouth  of  Green  bay.     The  first  island  is  distant : 
the  main  land  about  a  league,  and  is  called  the  Isle  an  Detour,  and  is  at  least  I 
leagues  in  circuitifiirence     There  are  generally  a  few  Sauteaux  lodges  of  Indiimd 
this  island  during  the  summer  rionths.     ?rom  this  to  Isle  Brule  is  three  leagi 
There  are  tWo  small  islands  from  these  to  Isle  Verte,  and  two  leagues  to  Illcj 
Pou,  called  so  from  the  Poutowatomiea  having  once  a  vilbge  here,  but  now  ah 
doned.     In  the  months  of  May  and  June  there  is  a  fiidiery  of  trout,  and  thqi 
taken  in  great  quantities  by  trolling.     And  there  are  also  white  fish  in  vast  si 
hers.    The  ship  tbanntl  is  between  this  island  and  Isle  Verte.    From  thcnce| 
Petit  D'Etroit  to  the  main  land  is  three  leagues,  where  some  lodges  of  Ottowai^ 
Santeaux  raise  small  quantities  of  corn;  but  their  Subsistence,  during  the  tm 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  I. 


45 


productions 
the  "W.  bears 

,\t,  i»  the  third 
ficient  corn  to 
of  the  Prairie 
.WghhlUsarc 
erth^  river  the 
is  nearly  h*if  a 

Chlent,bytheChib. 

3,1  at  the  bottom  rf 
,^tAix»^  there i»i 
nee  into  LaheMidu. 
,d«r*Weexte«t,i.m.d 
,-     The  Aote  bom  I 
l-rtunt  from  the  idand, 

,  a  very  ««»«•«•*"* 
,;„.— thewii^en^ 

aterfroma*orm.Th^ 

-  Lake  superior.  ft«« 
„.n  the  number  of  40^ 

.omthelake.«-hffiA 
^orm.  without  unW«>g{ 

,ohavehi.««nc^i 
^canoe-men.    ?to>n| 
I;  titer,    l-heentrtttei 
.are  very  high  when*- 

here  .turgeon  m  r 
.covered  with  pine. 
,ith  Lake  superior,  rt. 
L,anddangeroui.   " 

Lour,  and  i.  at  U«^ 
Leau«lodge.onn<^^ 
PdcBruici.  three  »e.^ 
land  two  league,  to  1* 

vUVagehere.but«ow^ 
Very  of  trout,  and  thei 

Jv,hiteh*inv3j.«^ 

Prom  tnewi 

lofOtiova* 


le  Verte. 
Ume  lodge* 


|\'cr  is  the  grand  aource.or  communtcation  between  the  lakes  and 
the  Mississippi,  and  the  route  by  whicli  all  the  traders  of  Michili* 
mitckinac  convey  their  goods,  for  the  trude  of  the  Mississippi,  from 
St.  Louis  to  the  river  de  Corbeau,  and  the  conOuent  streams  which 

montht,  chiefly  depend*  upon  the  quantitie*  of  sturgeon  and  other  fith,  with  which 

the  lake  here  abounds.    From  Petit  D'Etroit  to  the  main  land  is  three  leagues,  and 

ii  called  the  Port  de  Mort,  from  a  number  of  Reynard  canoes  having  been  wrecked 

at  thiii  place,  where  every  one  perished.     The  shore  i*  hold  and  rocky.    From  this 

ii  four  leagues  to  the  Lit  Racro,  which  is  a  safe  harbor,  inaccessible  to  all  winds. 

From  this  to  Sturgeon  bay  is  eight  leagues.    The  shore  is  bold  and  rocky,  and  se- 

reral  large  islands  lie  a  few  miles  distant.    A  few  Sauteaux  families  raise  corn  here 

and  reside  daring  the  summer  season.   Trout  and  sturgeon  are  here  in  great  nam- 

b«s.     Sturgeon's  bay  is  two  miles  across  and  about  four  leagues  in  length,  andf 

communicaties  by  a  portage  with  Lake  Michigan,  near  Michilimackinac.     Distant 

from  the  lake  about  two  leagues  is  the  Isle  Vermillion.     Here  were,  a  few  yean 

ago,  a  number  of  Fola  Avoin  inhabitants,  who  were  accustomed  to  raise  corn ;  but 

irom  what  reasons  they  have  left  this  place  1  cannot  learn.     Fronf  this  is  thirteen 

leagues  to  the  entrance  of  the  Fox  river.     On  leaving  Isle  Vermillion,  the  wood* 

and  general  appearance  of  the  country  begins  to  change,  and  has  a  very  dificreat 

aipect  from  the  more  northern  parts  of  this  lake.     A  small  river  called  Riviere 

Rouge  falls  into  the  lake,  about  half  way  between  Isle  Vermillion  and  La  Bayet 

On  approaching  La  Baye,  the  water  of  the  latter  assumes  a  whiter  appearance, 

and  becomes  less  deep.    A  channel  which  winds  a  good  deal  may  be  found  for 

Kiiels  of  50  and  60  tons  burden ;  and  loaded  vessels  of  these  dimensions  have 

gune  up  the  Fox  river  to  the  French  settlement,  opposite  to  which  is  the  Fols 

Aroin  village,  which  consists  of  ten  or  twelve  bark  lodges.     A  great  number  of 

Sauteaux,  and  some  Ottowas,  come  here  in  Vhc  spring  and  fall.  Three  leagues  from 

La  Baye  is  a  small  village  of  the  same  nation,  and  another  three  leagues  higher,  at 

the  portage  of  KakaUn.     This  portage  is  a  mile  long :  the  ground  even  and  rocky. 

There  is  a  fall  of  about  tea  feet,  which  obstructs  the  navigation  for  thrte  leagues 

higher,  and  almost  continual  rapids  until  the  fall  of  Grand  Konimee.    About  five 

feet  high,  above  this,  the  river  opens  into  a  small  lake,  at  the  end  of  which  is  a 

strong  rapid,  called  Puant's  rapid,  which  issues  from  a  lake  of  that  name.     Tiiis 

lake  is  ten  leagues  long,  and  from  two  to  three  wide.     At  irs  entrance  ij  the  first 

Puant  village,  of  ten  or  twelve  lodges.     At  the  upper  end  of  the  lake  is  another 

Puant  village,  of  about  the  same  number  of  lodges,  and  at  this  end  is  a  small  river, 

which,  with  the  interval  of  a  few  portages  communicates  with  rock  river.    About 

midway  between  the  two  Puant  villages  is  a  Fols  .\voin  village,  on  the  south  side 

ef  the  lake,  of  50  or  60  men.     Five  leagues  from  the  entrance  of  tiie  lake,  on  the 

north  side,  the  Fox  river  falls  in,  and  is  about  zoo  yards  wide.     x\scending  two 

leagues  higher,  is  a  small  Fols  Avoin  village,  where  is  a  lake  of  more  than  two 

leagues  long ;  and  about  a  league  above  this  lake  the  river  de  Lonp  joins  the  Fox 

iver.near  a  hill  called  the  But  de  Mort,  where  the  Fox  nation  were  nearly  extir- 

inatcd  by  the  French  and  confederate  Indians.     The  rivers  and  lakes  are,  at  cer< 

lain  seasons,  full  of  wild  rice.     The  country  on  the  borders  of  this  river  is  finely 

iversified  with  woods  and  ptairies.     Any  quantity  of  hay  may  be  made,  and  is  a? 

e  a  country  for  raising  stock  as  any  in   the  same  latitude  through  all  America. 


hi 


i!^" 


\i     t!l 


46 


APPENDIX  TO  PAR  r  I. 


m 


•re  in  those  tioundHrica.  *  The  villag;e  of  the  Pruii  ie  do  Chlcns  k 
Mtuated  aljout  one  leHgne  above  the  mouth  of  the  Ouiscoiisinf;  river. 
On  the  E.  banic  of  the  river  there  is  «  small  pond  or  marsh  which 
nms  parallel  to  the  river  in  the  rear  of  the  town,  which,  in  front  of 
the  marsh,  consists  of  18  dwelling-houiies,  in  two  streets;  16  in 
Fmnt«street,  and  3  in  First-street.  In  the  rear  of  the  pond  are  8 
dwelling-houses :  part  of  the  houses  are  framed,  and  in  place  of 
vreatherboardint;^,  there  are  small  logs  let  into  mortises  made  iu  the 
uprights,  joined  close,  daubed  on  the  outside  with  clay,  and  hand. 
tomely  white-washed  within.    The  inside  furniture  of  their  houses 

Trem  the  But  ie  Mort  to  the  Lac  a  Puckway  ii  twenty-eight  Icsguet.  Here  ii 
another  Puant  Tillage  of  leven  or  eight  large  ledgci.  This  take  it  three  league* 
long:  four  league*  above  it  Lac  du  Bauf  begins,  which  it  alio  four  leagues  long, 
and  i(  full  of  wild  rice,  and  a  great  many  fowls  in  their  season.  From  Lac  da 
Bcmf  to  the  fork*,  which  is  five  leagues  from  the  portage  of  the  OutKouilng,  and 
ten  leagues  above  the  forks  is  a  very  small  lake,  called  Lac  Faiiuit,  and  is  so  choaked 
with  wild  rice  at  to  render  it  almost  impassable-  The  river,  although  very  wind- 
ing, becomes  here  more  and  more  seqientine  on  approaching  the  portage,  aid  the 
river  narrows  so  much  as  almost  to  prevent  the  use  of  oars.  The  length  of  the 
portage  to  the  Ouiscousing  ia  two  miles,  and  when  the  waters  are  high,  canoes  and 
boats  loaded  past  over.  Here  the  waters  at  that  time  separate,  the  one  part  goipg 
to  the  gulph  of  Mesicn,  and  the  other  to  that  of  St.  Lawrence.  In  wet  seasoiii 
the  portage  road  is  very  bad,  the  soil  being  of  a  swampy  nature.  There  ii  for 
nearly  half  way  a  kind  of  natural  canal,  which  is  sometimes  used,  and  I  think  i 
canal  between  the  two  rivers  might  be  easily  cut.  The  expense  at  present  attend- 
ing the  transport  is  one  third  of  a  dollar  per  hundred  weight ;  for  a  canoe  five  doj- 
]art,  and  a  boat  eight  dollars  but  this  is  not  cash,  but  in  goods,  at  the  rate  of  loo 
per  cent  on  the  sterling.  There  ate  at  present  two  white  men,  who  have  establish- 
ments there ;  but  they  are  much  incommoded  by  the  Puants  of  the  Rock  river, 
•  who  are  troublesome  visitors.  The  Ouiscousing  is  a  large  river,  its  bottom  sandj, 
full  of  islands  and  sand-bars  during  the  summer  season.  The  navigation  is  difficult 
even  for  canoes,  owing  tp  the  lowness  of  the  water.  From  the  portage  to  its  con- 
fluence with  the  Mississippi  is  6o  leagues.  The  Suques  and  Reynards  former!) 
lived  on  its  hanks,  but  were  drove  oflT  by  the  Sauteaux.  I'hey  were  accustomed 
to  raise  a  great  deal  of  corn  and  beans,  the  soil  being  excellent.  Opposite  to  the 
Detour  de  Pin,  half  way  from  the  Portage,  on  the  south  side,  are  lead  mines,  saiil 
to  be  the  best  in  any  part  of  the  country,  and  may  be  wrought  with  great  eate.  I 
Boats  of  more  than  four  tons  are  improper  for  the  communication  between  the] 
Mississippi  and  Michilimackinac.  [DiViit/i.] 

•  The  present  village  of  the  Prairie  des  Cbiens,  was  first  settled  in  the  year! 
I7R.%  and  the  first  settlers  were  Mr.  Giard,  Mr.  Antaya,  and  Mr.  Dubuque.  ThJ 
old  village  is  about  a  nule  below  the  present  one,  and  had  existed  during  the  timtl 
the  French  were  possessed  of  the  country.  It  derives  its  name  from  a  family  ofl 
Reynards  who  formerly  lived  there,  distinguished  by  the  appellation  of  Dogs.  Thcj 
present  village  was  settled  under  the  English  government,  and  the  ground  \n 
purcliased  from  the  Reynard  Indians. 


\n  Cvoni  oC 

el»-,  ^^  >" 
pond  af*  * 
in  p^"*^**  '^ 

^,  and  V»am). 
theiv  Iwuse* 

.»gu«.-    «««■'• 
.U  three  le»gtte» 

otttle»g«»'"°K' 
From  Uc  dm 

.'ooiKouMng.w* 


»ndw»o 


choake4 


APPENDIX  TO  PAKT  I.  I» 

is  decent,  and  indeed,  in  those  of  tlie  most  wealthy  displnyt  a  degree 
of  elt'Kuucc  nnd  taste. 

'liieic  ui'u  eight  liouses  scattered  round  the  country,  ut  the  dis- 
tance uf  uno,  two,  three  and  five  miles  i  ulso,  on  the  W.  side  of 
ihc  MiskkittHippi,  three  houses,  situated  on  a  small  stream  culled  the 
'.fiurds  river,  mukinq;,  in  the  village  and  vicinity,  37  houses,  which 
it  will  nut  be  too  much  tu  calculate  at  H)  persons  each,  the  popuhi- 
tioit  would  be  370  souls  ;  but  this  calculation  will  not  answer  for  the 
i\mu\i  or  autumn,  us  there  are  then,  at  least  5  or  600  white  persons. 
This  is  owinj;  to. the  concourse  of  traders  and  their  engagees  from 
Miciiiliniackinuc  and  other  parts,  who  make  this  their  last  stage,  pre- 
vious to  their  launching  into  the  savage  wilderness.     They  again 
meet  here  in  the  spring,  on  their  return  frara   their  wintering 
grounds,  accompanied  by  S  or  4U0  Indians,  when  they  hold  a  Jitir  / 
the  one  disposes  of  remnants  of  goods,  and  the  others  reserved  pel- 
tiics.    It  is  astoiiibhing  there  are  not  more  murders  and  aHVays  at 
this  place,  us  there  meets  such  an  lieterogeneous  mass  to  ti'ude ;  the 
U!ie  of  spirituous  liquors  being  in  no  manner  restricted  ;  but  since 
the  American  government  has  become  known,  such  accidents  are 
much  less  frequent  than  formerly.    The  prairie  on  which  the  vil- 
lage is  situated  is  bounded  in  the  rear  by  high  bald  hills.    It  is  fix>m 
fine  mile  to  three  quarters  of  a  mile  from  the  river,  and  extends 
ilxtut  eight  miles  from  the  Mississippi,  to  where  it  strikes  the  Ou- 
kousing  at  the  J^atit   Grey,  wliicli  bears  from  the  village  S.  L. 
byE. 

If  the  marsh  before  spoken  of  was  drained  (which  might  be 
easily  done),  I  um  of  the  opinioit  it  would  render  the  situation  of 
the  pruirie  hculthy,  which  now  subjects  its  inhabitants  to  intermit- 
BDg  fevers  in  Jte  spring  and  autumn. 

There  ard  a  few  gentlemen  residing  at  the  Prairie  des  Chicn  i.. 
wd  many  others  claiming  that  appellation  ;  but  the  rivalship  of  the 
iladian  ti'ude,  occasions  them  to  be  guilty  of  acts  at  their  wintering 
ivunds,  which  they  would  blush  to  be  thought  guilty  of  in  die  ci> 
ilized  world.     They  possess  the   spirit  of  generosity  a'' d  hospi- 
lity  in  an  eminent  degree  ;  but  this  is  the  leading  feature  in  the  elm- 
fatter  of  frontier  inhabitants.     Their  mode  of  living  had  obliged 
liein  to  have  transient  connexion  with  the  Indian  women  ;  and  what 
first  settled  in  t  e  'Bias  at  first  fiolicy  is  now  so  confirmed  by  habit  and  inclination,  that 
nd  Mr.      .      u-timtB's  become  (with  a  few  exceptions)  the  ruling  practice  of  all  tlic 
existed  «ri    ^^^^^j^ „(la,ie,.s  j  ^nd,  in  fact,  almost  one  half  of  the  inhabitants  under  'JO 

'*"*'"*.       r  ooffs.  11>««'»''»  have  the  blood  of  the  aborigines  in  their  veins.     From  tlic 
ppeUatiou  of  Dogs       'w  b 

t, 


though  very  ^">J- 
,e  portage,  ""it^e 
The  length  ofthe 

,rehigh.c»«oe.an'i 
■  the  one  part  gowg 

„ce.  m  *'««»«'« 
.,ture.  Thereisfor 
.used,  and  Ubnkt 

^  at  present  attend- 
f„r  a  canoe  five  do}- 

:a..,t  the  rate  oMo. 
,„,^hohavcestab\.»h. 

..of  the  Rock  ''^' 
Uer.Ushottomundy, 

e  navigation  udifficuU 

^dReynardHformcTi, 

hey-ercaccustcc^ 
Mt.  opposite  to  the 
4c.  are  lead  mines.  W 

ought  with  great  c.«. 

unication  between  the 


H 


,-if 


I 


^  '*  I  the  ground  milage  to  Lake  Pepin  wc  huve,  ©n  the  W.  shore,  firsi  Yellow  rive»'» 


J 


i  1; 


m 


48 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  I. 


<  111 


,i  .1      .* 


of  about  20  yards  wide,  bearing^  from  the  Misussippi  nearly  due  W. 
second,  the  Iowa  river,  about  100  yards  wide,  beating  from  the  Mis- 
sissippi about  N.  W.  third,  the  Racine  river,  about  20  yards  wide, 
bearing  from  the  Mississippi  nearly  W.  and  navigable  for  canoes  60 
miles ;  fourth,  the  rivers  Embarra  and  Lean  Claire,  which  join 
their  waters  just  as  they  form  a  confluence  with  the  Mississippi,  and 
are  about  60  yards  wide,  and  bear  nearly  S.  W. 

On  the  E.  shore,  in  the  same  distance,  is  the  river  de  la  Prairie 
la  Cross,  which  empties  into  the  Mississippi,  at  the  head  of  the 
prairie  of. that  name.  It  is  about  SO  yards  wide,  and  bears  N.  N.  W. 

We  then  meet  with  the  Black  river,  a  very  considerable  stream 
about  200  yards  wide  at  its  mouth,  on  which  the  traders  frequently 
winter  with  the  Puanta  and  Fola  Avoina.  Next  pass  the  river  of  the 
Montaigne  qui  Tromfies  done  VEau^  a  s!T.alI  stream  in  the  rear  of  the 
hill  of  that  name  ;  and  then  we  find  tl>e  Riviere  au  Boeuf,  of  about  30 
yards  wide,  bearing  N.  by  W.  and,  at  the  entrance  of  Lake  Pepih, 
on  the  E.  shore  joins  the  Sauteaux  river,  which  is  at  least  half  a 
mile  wide,  and  appears  to  be  a  deep  and  majestic  stream.  It  bekrs 
from  the  Mississippi  nearly  due  N.  This  river  is  in  size  and 
course  (some  distance  up)  scarcely  to  be  distinguished  from  the 
Ouiscousitig,  and  has  a  communication  with  the  Montreal  river  by  a 
short  portage,  and  by  this  liver  with  Luke  Superior.  The  agents  of 
the  N.  W.  company  supply  the  Ids  Avoin  Sauteaux,  who  reside 
at, the  head  of  this  river,  and  those  of  Michilimackinac)  the  Sioux 
who  hunt  on  its  lower  waters. 

In  this  division  of  the  Mississippi  the  shores  are  more  than 
three-fourths  prairie  on  both  &ides,  or,  more  properly  speaking,  bald 
hills,  which,  instead  of  running  parallel  with  the  river,  form  a  conti- 
nual  succession  of  high  perpendicular  cliffs  and  low  vallies :  tbej  I 
appear  to  head  on  the  river,  and  to  traverse  the  country  In  an  angular 
direction.     Those  hills  and  vall:«s  give  rise  to  some  of  the  most  | 
sublime  and  romantic  views  I  ever  saw.    But  this  irregular  see- 
nery  is  sometimes  interrupted  by  a  wide  extended  plain,  whiclil 
brings  to  mind  the  verdant  lawn  of  civilized  life,  and  would  almostl 
induce  the  traveller  to  imagine  himself  in  the  centre  of  a  highly! 
cultivated  plantation.   The  timber  of  this  division  is  generally  bircbj 
elm  and  cottonwood,  all  the  cliffs  being  bordered  by  cedar. 

The  navigation  unto  the  Iowa  river  is  good ;  but  from  thencej 
to  the  Sauteaux  river  is  very  much  obstructed  by  islands;  andiif 
^ome  places  the  Mississippi  is  uncommonly  wide,  ^nd  divided  intor^sippj 
many  small  channels,  wliich  trom  the  clifts  appear  like  so  many  dis#*'*s'Ppi| 
linct  rivers,  winding  in  a  parallel  course  through  the  same  imp' '"®  vd 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  h 


49 


mense  valley.    But  there  are  few  sand-bars  in  those  narrow  chan- 
nels :  the  soil  being  rich,  the  water  cuts  through  it  with  facility. 

La  Montaigne  qui  froinpe  dans  I'Eau  stands  in  the  Mississippi 
near  the  E.  shore,  about  50  miles  below  the  Sauteaux  river,  and  is 
about  two  miles  in  circumference,  with  an  elevation  of  two  hundred 
feet,  covered  with  timber.     There  is  a  small  river  which  empties 
into  the  Mississippi,  in  the  reur  of  the  mountain,  which,  I  conceive, 
once  bounded  the  mountain  on  the  lower  side,  and  the  Mississippi 
on  the  upper,  when  the  mountain  was  joined  to  the  main  by  a  neck 
of  prairie  low  ground,  which  in  time  was  worn  away  by  the  spring 
freshes  of  the  Mississippi ;  and  thus  formed  an  island  of  this  cele- 
brated mountain.     Lake  Pepin    so  called  by  the  tVench,)  appears 
to  be  only  an  expansion  of  the  Mississippi.     It  commences  at  the 
entrance  of  the  Sauteaux  river,  and  bears  N.  55  W.  to  Point  de 
Sable  1 3  miles,  which  is  a  neck  of  land  making  out  about  one  mile 
into  the  lake  from  the  W.  shore,  and  is  the  narrowest  part  of  the 
lal^e.    From  here  to  the  upper  end  the  course  is  nearly  due  W. 
about  10  miles,  making  its  whole  length  22  miles,  and  from  four  to 
one  and  a  half  miles  in  width,  the  broadest  part  being  in. the  bay 
below  Point  de  Sable,     i'his  is  a  beautiful  place  ;  the  contrast  of 
the  Mississippi  full  of  islands,  and  the  lake  with  not  one  in  its  whole 
extent,  gives  more  force  to  the  grandeur  of  the  scene.  The  French, 
under  the  government  of  M.  Fronienac,  drove  the  Reynards  (or 
Ottaquanties)  from  the  Ouiscousing,  and  pursued  them  up  the  Mis- 
sissippi, and,  as  a  barrier,  built  a  stockade  on  Lake  Pepin*  on  the 
iW.^hore,  just  below  Point  de  Sable;  and,  as  was  generally  th.e  case 
ith  that  nation,  blended  the  military  and  mercantile  professions,  by 
aidng  their  fort  a  factory  for  the  Sioux.    The  lake,  at  the  upper 
i,  is  three  fatltoms  deep  ;  but  this,  I  am  informed,  is  its  shoalest 
rt.    From  the  Iowa  river  to  the  head  of  Lake  Pepin,  the  elk  are 
leprevedling  species  of  wild  game,  with  some  deer,  and  a  few  bear.- 
From  the  head  of  Lake  Pepin  about  12  miles  to  the  Cannon 
|ver,  the  Mississippi  is  branched  out  into  many  channels,  and  its 
iom  covered  with  numerous  islands.     There  is  a  hill  on  the  W. 
re,  about  six  miles  above  the  lake  called  the  Grange,  from  the 
mit  of  which  you  have  one  of  the  most  delightful  prospects  in 
ure.    When  turning  your  face  to  the  E.  you  ha\e  the  river  wind- 
.„  „^  -  in  three  channels  at  your  feet ;  on  your  right   the  extensive 

od ;  but  ivotti      ,  jBom  of  the  lake,  bounded  by  its  chain  of  hills,  in  front  over  the 
led  by  islands*,  a      fcsissippi,  a  wide '  extended  prairie  ;  on  the  left  t'u  valley  of  the 
,ide,^i^'^*^^^         ,  Jsissippi,  open  to  view  quite  to  the  St.  Cioix,  and  partly  inyvour 
eav  ii^®  *°  many  j^  ^^^  valley  through  which  passes  the  Riviere  aii  Canon  ;  and 
rough  the  same  • 


iriy  due  W. 
amtheMis- 
yavds  wu\e, 
ior  canoes  60 
.,  which  join 
tssissipP^'*'^* 

,rde  la  Prairie 

e  head  of  the 
,eavsN.N.W. 
^derable  stream 
,acrs  frequently 
the  river  of  the 
„  the  rear  of  the 
l«uf,ofabout30 

.  of  ^^'^  ^®P  ' 
\s  at  least  hatf» 

„rt»     It  heirs 
stream.    *»• 

^uished  from  the 
Lntrealriverbya 
,„-    The  agents  ot 
,v  who  reside 
ckinac,  the  Si««x 

„esare«ior«^^ha« 

Uyspeaking^b^^ 
,  river,  form  a  conu. 

L  loWvaUies:tby 
ouutrymanangv^ 
some  of  the  most 
this  irregular  see- 

.ended  plain,  «1^^^; 
fe%nd.vouldaln.oj 

recentreofahigW 
sd  by  cedar 


m 


50 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  I. 


when  I  viewed  it,  on  one  of  the  islands  below,  appeared  the  spotted 
lodges  of  the  Red  Wing's  band  of  Sioux.  The  white  tents  of  the 
traders  and  my  soldiers,  and  three  flags  of  the  United  States  wav- 
ing on  the  water,  which  gave  a  contrast  to  the  still  and  lifeless  wiU 
dernesB  around,  and  increased  the  pleasure  of  the  prospect. 

l-'rom  the  Cannon  river  to  the  St.  Croix,  the  Mississippi  evidently 
becomes  narrower,  and  the  navigation  less  obstructed  by  islands. 
The  St.  Croix  river  joins  the  Mississippi  on  the  E.  and  bears  from 
the  latter  almost  due  N.  It  is  only  80  yards  wide  at  its  mouth,  and 
500  yards  up  commences  Lake  St.  Croix,  which  is  from  one  and  a 
half  to  three  miles  wide,  and  36  long.  This  river  communicates 
with  Lake  Superior  by  the  Burnt  river,  by  a  portage  of  half  a  mile 
only,  and  in  its  whole  extent  has  not  one  fall  or  rapid  worthy  of  no> 
tice.  This,  with  the  mildness  of  its  current,  and  its  other  advan. 
tages,  render  it  by  far  the  most  preferable  communication  which  can 
be  had  with  the  N.  W.  from  this  part  of  our  territories.  Its  upper  j 
waters  are  inhabited  by  the  Fols  Avoins  and  Sauteaux,  who  are  sup- 
plied by  the  agents  of  the  north  west  company ;  and  its  lowei'  divi- 
sion by  the  Sioux  and  their  traders. 

The  Mississippi  from  the  Cannon  river  is  bounded  on  the  L\ 
by  high  ridges,  but  the  left  is  low  ground.  The  timber  is  generally] 
ash  and  maple,  except  the  cedar  of  the  cliffs.  From  the  St.  troixf 
to  the  river  St.  Peters  the  Mississippi  is  collected  into  a  narrow 
compass  (I  crossed  it  at  one  place  with  forty  strokes  of  my  oarsjl 
and  the  navigation  very  good.  The  E.  bank  generally  bounded  by  tha 
river  ridges,  but  the  W.  sometimes  timbered  bottom  or  prairie.  Tit 
timber  is  generally  maple,  sugar-tree,  and  ash.  About  twenty  milej 
below  the  entrance  of  the  river  St.  Peters,  on  the  E.  shore, at] 
place  called  the  Grand  Murais,  is  situated  the  Petit  Corbeau's  4 
lage  of  eleven  log  houses.  For  a  description  of  the  river  St.  Peterj 
see  the  chart  herewith.  From  the  river  St.  Peters  to  the  falls  of  S 
Anthony,  the  river  is  contracted  between  high  hills,  and  is  onecoj 
tinual  rapici  or  fall,  the  bottom  being  covered  with  rocks  which { 
low  water)  are  some  feet  above  the  surface,  leaving  narrow  ch 
nels  between  them.  The  rapidity  of  the  current  is  likewise  m^ 
augmented  by  the  numerous  small  rocky  islands,  which  obstn 
the  navigation.  The  shores  have  many  large  and  beautiful  sprid 
issuing  forth,  which  form  small  cascades  as  they  tumble  over} 
cliH's  into  the  Mississippi.  The  timber  is  generally  maple, 
place  we  noted  for  the  great  quantity  of  wild  fowl.  As  I  asceni 
the  Mississippi,  the  falls  of  St.  Anthony  did  not  strike  mei 
that  majestic  appearance  which  I  had  been  taught  to  expect  I 


Wi 


n. 


APPENDIX  TO  PAHT  I. 


51 


d  the  spotted 
5  tent*  of  the 
i  States  wftv- 
idUfelesswUr 

aspect. 

isippievWenUy 
ctedbyis\a^^ds. 
and  bears  £vom 
t  its  movith,  and 
I  from  one  and  a 
■v  cointnunicates 
gcofUfamUc 
,/,idvortbyofno. 

J  Us  other  advwv 
nicationwbichm 


iiories. 


Its  upper  I 


eaux,whoare^ 
,  anditsloN»evdivi. 

^  bounded  on  the  U. 

e  timber  is  ge'^J"^!^ 
VromtheSt.H 

ected  into  a  nam' 
,irokesofinyo.n: 


the  description  of  former  travellers.  On  an  actual  survey,  I  find 
the  portage  to  be  260  poles;  but  when  the  river  is  not  very  low, 
boats  ascending  may  be  put  in  3 1  pole  below,  at  a  large  cedar  trec^ 
which  would  reduce  it  to  229  poies.  The  hill  over  which  the  por- 
tage is  made,  is  69  feet  ascent,  with  an  elevation  at  the  point  of 
debarkation  of  45**.  The  fall  of  the  water  between  the  place  of 
debarkation  and  re-loading  is  58  feet ;  the  perpendicular  fail  of  the 
shoot  16  1-2  feet.  The  width  of  the  river  above  the  shoot  627  yards ; 
below  209.  For  the  form  of  the  shoot,  see  a  rough  draught  here- 
with. In  high  water,  the  appearance  is  much  more  sublime,  as 
the  great  quantity  of  water  then  forms  a  spray,  which  in  clear 
weather  I'eflects  from  some  positions  the  colors  of  the  rainbow,  and 
when  the  sky  is  o'ercast,  cover  the  falls  in  gloom  and  chaotic  ma- 
jesty. From  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony  to  Rum  river,  the  Mississippi 
is  almost  one  continual  chain  of  rapids,  with  the  eddies  formk.d  by 
winding  channels.  Both  sides  are  prairie,  and  scarcely  any  timber 
but  small  groves  of  scrub  oak.  Rum  river  is  about  50  yards  wide 
I  tt  its  mouth,  and  takes  its  sAirce  1.)  Le  Mille  Lac,  '.vhich  is  but 
1 35  miles  S.  of  Lower  Red  Cedar  Lake.  The  small  Indian  canoes 
ascend  this  river  quite  to  the  lake,  which  is  considered  as  one  of 
lihetiest  fur  hunting  grounds  for  some  hundreds  of  miles  ;  and  has 
[been  long  a  scene  of  rencounters  between  the  hunting  parties  of  the 
Isioux  and  Sauteaux.  The  last  winter  a  number  of  the  Fols  Avoins 
1  Sioux,  and  som&.  Sauteaux,  wintered  in  that  quarter.     From 


i-aUy  bo^J*^^®*^^^  ^Rum  river  to  Leaf  river,  (called  by  father  Hennipin  and  Carver,  the 
lottomorpvairicTJ" 
About  twenty  iwl( 
ontheE.Bhore,«t 
.  Petit  Corbeausr 
of  the  river  St.  Pew: 
leterstotbefaUso? 
bb\\l«,a«disone. 
v,ith  rocks  which 

leaving  nai^'^^'=' 
trent is  likewise" 


iver  St.  Francis,  and  was  the  extent  of  their  travels)  the  prairies 

tinue  with  a  few  interruptions.    The  timber  scrub  oak,  with 

w  and  then  a  lonely  pine.     Previous  to  your  arrival  at  Leaf  river, 

lu  pass  Crow   river  on  the   W.  about  30  yards  wide,  which  bears 

im  the  Mississippi  S.    \V.     Leaf  river  is  only  a  small  stream  of 

It  more  than  15  yards  over,  and  bears  N.  by  W. 

The  elk  begin  to  be  very  plenty ;  some  bu(falo,  quantities  of 

r,  racoons,  and  on  the  prairie  a  few  of  the  animals  called  by  the 

nch  brelaws. 

From  thence  to  Sac  river,  a  little  above  the  Grand  Rapids,  both 
lands,  which  0"*"Besof  the  river  are  generally  prairie,  with  skirts  of  scrub  oak. 
and  beautiful  *P^'Me  navigation  still  obstructed  with  ripples,  but  with  some  intermia- 
II  of  a  few  miles. 

At  the  Grand  Rapids  the  river  expands  itself  to  about  3-4  of  a 

lein  width,  (its  general  width  not  being  more  than  3-5  of  a  mile) 

tumbles  over  an  unequal  bed  of  rocks  for  about  two   ntilest 

ugh  winch  there  cannot  be  said  to  be  any  chaim%l :  for  notwitU- 


;e 

las 


„tbey  tumble  over, 

enerally  «^»T?*'*  ^„ 
id  fowl.    Asl'^^c" 
did  not  strike  tn 
u  taught  to  exP«^^' 


APPENblX  TO  PART  I. 


s' 


"  „,„„.  of  my  invalid.,  who  TO  on 

r^W    shore  «aded'0.Vb^  («^"«  ^„,  W .  ..rubb,  wood 

tanJ     The  S»c  river  .s  » ';™»»7*  ,a,  v.de  at  it.  mouth 

Te W  «"'  """  """'^'     ;u^t«arg  from  the  Sae  riv.rto  Pin. 
*     The,uanti,yof  game...     —  ,„.,  ,.ftpartof  n,, 

creek,  fthe  place  vhere  !»""'"»  „„,e.  of  pine  on  the  edge  o 
;.n^h.  larder,  .re  r.*_-.;';^,,^;,fcer.,o„n,.etw^ 
the  bank  ,  but  there  .re  --»"«^„.    ,„  *!.  distance  there  ..  .» 
bottom,  of  oak.  ""••""'■''•."^.Tmiles,  when  the,  eommeace 
t^missionof  t-pil'.fe--  »'^;' *°  "Ther.arethree.mril creeks 
.        A  .™  full  a.  difficult  as  ever.  ^      j^^  t.  are 

,gai..,  and  a.e  tuU  a  ^^^^^^^  °J.     '^  Jformer  quiw  a 

emptymg  ..^  on  the  v,  ^_^  ^j^^_.  ^„      ,  ^e  lo        ^ 

Zrc:^^,-"   *^»^ ''ru.'be:S:i:mt«  UKe,  arou. 
abo^l  ;««  from  its  entrance,      »^'  ^^j..^.    clear  river  ».l 
'       t^clresort  immense  herd.of«''^;U,h,a„aheads.n«.n,. 

—: 'srri-»-/-r:r;rt:or:aiJ.mai.g^^^ 

^a  e.  from  above  the  fal  s  » ^^Y^  ^^  ,,„p.    P.„e  ere. 

I'""L„!  the  bottoms  rich,  and  htlor        ^         „d  bears  nearly 
Tat'l  tveam  .hich  comestn  on  *«  V^  sh^  ,  ^^^  ^^^ 

|j:e:iretM&tusX:^^^^^^^ 

from  its  communicaucnwuhthe  m  ^  ^^^^^^  ^^^.^,^  J 

^-    tn  a  small  lak^»  ^^^o**^*'  ^    ?     ,  ^ortace  of  four  tmlel 
r;  4"  ^  ™from  which  ^'J^^-'^UhC^escend  in»  J 

W  and  fall  "■»  ">=  TTside     on"  .ma,l  stream  wh  ch  H 
Tver  St.  Peters.    On  the  L.  ^-  ^^^  .^  ^„„,ed  by  ht,   •  J 

towards  Lower  Red  p'^".^yy  difficult  « "»"«""'  i""„^J 

Ihole  of  this  distance  is  '^'«^^J    ^^  (,,„ ,  but  there  s  o«  « 

•    ,-r\  miccession  of  rapw  »no*"        .       The  nlace  called  by  i« 

Cr.  .rbrmore  particularly  7"  ^JULh  itcrtainl,  .1. 
X  :    h  LC  Shute  de  la  Roche  P^T^e.  .W.  in  my  whole  J 
,  «acle  in  point  of  navigation,  ".''."■"  V         i„„d  succession  olrf 


who  was  on 

,cTubby  wood 
comes  in  on 
L  its  tnouth. 
;  vivertoPine 

eft  part  of  my 
jn  the  edge  of 
^eet  with  small 
nee  tbere  is  an 
^ey  cotnTncnce 
•ee  small  creeks 
ndontheE.ave 

B  former  quite* 
de  atitsmout^' 
.all  late,  around 
Clear  river  19  a 
and  heads  in  wtni 
Lower  Red  Cedat 
The  soil  of  Ac 
:'aise  small  g«i^i» 

ne,  and  bears  neatly 

,d  red  pine.    From 

hat  name)  two  small 

little  consequence;] 

n^ore  consideralb, 

ters.    Tbeyfivsu. 

a  small  stream  t( 

ktage  of  four  mid 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  I. 


53 


N.  65",  W.  the  upper  due  W.  This  (in  my  opinion)  should  be  termed 
the  Forks  of  the  Mississippi,  it  being  nearly  of  equal  magnitude, 
And  heading  not  far  from  the  same  source  ;  although  taking  a  much 
more  direct  course  to  their  junction.     It  may  be  observed  en  the 
chart,  that,  from  St.  Louis  to  this  place,  the  course  of  the  river  had 
generally  been  N.  to  the  W.  and,  that  from  here  it  bore  N.  E.  This 
river  uffords  the  best  and  most  approved  communication  vvith  tho 
Red  river ;  and  the  navigation  is  as  follows  :     You  ascend  the  river 
De  Corbeau  180  miles,  to  the  entrance  oi  the  river  Des  Feuilles, 
which  comes  from  the  N.  W.     This  you  ascend   1 80  miles  also  ; 
then  make  a  portage  of  half  a  mile  into  the  Otter  Tail  Lake,  which  is 
a  principal  rource  of  Red  river.     The  other  branch  of  the  river  De 
Curlieau  bears  S  W.  and  approximates  with  the  St.  Peters.     The 
whole  of  this  river  is  rapid,  and  by  no  means  affording  so  much  water 
as  the  Mississippi.     Their  confluence  is  in  latitude  45°  49'  50"  N. 
In  this  division  the  elk,  deer,  andbufTalo,  were  probably  in  greater 
quantises  than  in  any  other  part  of  my  whole  voyage.     From  thence 
to  Pine  river  the  Mississippi  continues  to  become  nari'ower,  and  has 
but  few  islands.  In  this  distance  I  discovered  but  one  rapid,  which  the 
force  of  the  frost  had  not  entirely  covered  with  ice.     The  shores  in 
general  presented  a  dreary  prospect  of  high  barren  nobs,  covered 
with  dead  and  fallen  pine  timber.    To  this  there  were  soihe  excep- 
tions of  ridges  of  yellow  and  pitch  pine  ;  also  some  small  bottoms 
of  lynn,  elm,  oak,  and  ash.    The  adjacent  country  is  (at  least  two 
thirds)  covered  with  small  lakes,  some  of  which  arc  S  miles  in  cir- 
cumference.   This  renders  the  communication  impassible  in  sum- 
mer, except  with  small  bark  cano'^s.    In  this  distance  we  first  met 
I  with  a  species  of  pine  called  the  sap  pine.     It  was  equally  unknown 
I  to  myself  and  all  my  party.  It  scarcely  ever  exceeds  the  height  of  35 
I  feet,  and  is  very  full  of  projecting  branches.    The  leaves  are  simi- 


nd  into  tlifl  l^^r  to  other  pines  ;  but  project  out  from  the  branches  on  each  side, 
vhicU  heifl'"  ^  direct  line,  thereby  rendering  the  branch  flat ;  ^nd  this  forma- 


ley 

|\  stream 
kunded  by  bills. 

o  navigate,  bemg 
but  there  IS  one 

|,,e  place  callec^;>V; 
Lh  is  certamly  ^^^« 

nued  succession  0' 
rily  i^"' "' 


Ition  occasions  the  natives  and  voyagers  to  give  it  the  preference  on 

lall  occasions  to  the  branches  of  all  other  trees  for  their  beds,  and  to 

[cover  their  temporary  camps  ;  but  its  greatest  virtue  arises  from  its 

jmedicinal  qualities.  The  rind  is  smooth,  with  fhe  exception  of  little 

protuberances  of  about  the  size  of  a  hazel  nut ;  the  top  of  which 

being  cut,  you  squeeze  out  a  glutinous  substance  of  the  consistence 

bf  honey.     This  gum  or  sap  gives  name  to  the  tree,  and  is  used  by 

he  natives  and  traders  of  that  country  as  a  balsam  for  all  wounds 


eau,  ^*  P        \li3sis*iW"'^''  '^X  sharp  instruments,  or  on  parts  frozen,  and  almost  all  other 
brs  mo         ^^^^j^j,5\Mxternal  injuries  which  they  receive.     My  poor  fellows  experienced 


hs 


from 


I 


-1^ 


m  ^ ' 


...  f 


. 

k ' 

■  i'       ^ 

<:r- 

.]; 

34 


APPfiNDIX  TO  PART  f. 


rail"'' 


I   ; 


its  beneOdal  qualitieit  by  the  application  made  of  it  to  their  frozen 
extremities  in  various  instances.  The  Pine  river  bears  from  the 
Mississippi  N.  30"  E.  althourh  it  empties  in  on  that  which  has  been 
hitherto  ttnned  the  W.  shore.  It  is  80  yards  wide  lU  it*  nnonfk 
and  has  an  island  immediately  at  the  entrance.  It  corn:nun\cati^\ 
with  Lake  Le  Sang  SuC)  by  the  following;  course  of  i)  ..igatioii: 
In  one  day's  sai'  iVom  the  confluence,  you  arrive  at  ihe  first  v^n  r>*' 
White  Fish  Lake,  which  is  about  'i  miles  lotiij»  and  l.vo  wide,.  From 
thence  you  pursue  the  river  about  two  miles,  and  co  re  to  the  2d 
White  Fish  Luke,  which  is  about  3  nviles  long  und  i  wide ;  then 
you  have  the  river  three  milt;s  to  the  Sd  lake,  which  is  /  miles  lont^ 
and  two  in  width,  (which  I  crossed  on  my  return  f>  om  the  head  o'. 
the  Mississippi,  oii  the  of  February;  and  ?s  in  45°  32'  C2"  N.Ia. 
titude)  I'rom  thonce  you  follow  the  river  a  quai  fcr  of  a  mite  <  le 
4th  lui\c.  which  is  a  circular  one  of  about  5  miles  in  circuiaferencc. 
From  liience  >  •a  pursue  the  river  one  day's  sail  to  a  small  lake; 
front  thenc>:  1  v-o  du.y'»  sail  to  a  portage,  which  conveys  you  to  another 
lake,  from  \^ hence  hy  small  portages  from  lakt:  to  lake,  you'make 
iht  voyage  to  Leech  Lake.  The  whole  of  this  course  lays  through 
ridges  of  pines  or  swamps  of  pinenet,  sap  pine,  hemlock.  Sec  &c. 
From  the  river  De  Corbeau  to  this  place,  the  deer  ar»very  plenty,  but 
wts  found  no  more  buffalo  or  elk.  From  this  spot  to  Red  Cedar  Lake> 
the  pine  ridges  are  interrupted  by  large  bottoms  of  elm,  ash,  oak,  and 
maple ;  the  soil  of  which  would  be  very  proper  for  cultivation.  From 
the  appearance  of  the  ice,  (which  was  firm  and  equal)  I  conceive 
there  can  be  but  one  ripple  in  this  distance.  Red  Cedar  lake  lays  on 
the  E.  side  of  the  Mississippi,  at  the  distance  of  6  miles  from  it,  and 
is  near  equally  distant  from  the  river  De  Corbeau  and  Lake  De  Sable. 
Its  form  is  an  oblong  square,  and  may  be  10  miles  in  circumference. 
From  this  to  Lake  De  Sable  on  the  Et  shore,  you  meet  with  Muddy 
River,  which  discharges  itself  into  the  Mississippi  by  a  mouth  30 
yards  wide,  and  boars  nearly  N.  £.  We  then  meet  with  Pike  river 
on  the  W.  about  77  miles  below  Sandy  lake,  and  bears  nearly  due 
N:  up  which,  you  ascend  with  canoes  4  day's  sail,  and  arrive  at  a 
wild  Hice  lake,  which  you  pass  through  and  enter  a  small  streanit  { 
and  ascend  it  two  leagues  ;  then  cross  a  portage  of  two  acres  into  i 
lake  7  leagues  in  circumference  ;  then  two  leagues  of  a  river  into  I 
another  small  lake.  From  thence  you  descend  the  current  N.  £■ 
into  Leech  lake.  'I'lic  banks  of  the  Mississippi  are  still  bordered  I 
by  the  pines  of  the  different  species,  except  a  few  small  bottoms  of  j 
elm,  lynn  and  maple.    The  game  scarce,  and  the  Aborigines,  sub- 


>H  f' 


it  to  their  frozen 
r  bears  from  the 
it  which  has  been 

ide  lu  it*  rnonHiy 
It  coii^nunicatii.'* 
ke  t'i  t)  ivigation; 
It  the  ftrsl  ?nrt  t>*' 
I  tvTO  wide.  From 
d  CO  re  to  the  2cl 
and  I  wide ;  then 
ch  is  7  miles  lon<^ 
1  f(om  the  hei»d  o\ 

46°  32'  S2"  N.la- 
erof  a  mile  <  «  'le 

m  circuviiference. 
iil  to  a  small  lake ; 
k  eys  you  to  another 
to  lake,  you-  make 
ourse  lays  through 
,  hemlock,  &c  &c. 
ai'*very  plenty,  but 
to  Red  Cedar  Lake, 
if  ehii,ash,  oak,an(l 
r  cultivation.  From 
]  equal)  I  conceive 
I  Cedar  lake  lays  on 
>  miles  from  it,  and 
and  Lake  De  Sable. 
!s  in  circumference, 
u  meet  with  Muddy 
ippi  by  a  mouth  20 
leet  with  Pike  river 
nd  bears  nearly  due 
sail,  and  arrive  at  a 
nter  a  small  stream, 
5  of  two  acres  into  a 
gues  of  a  river  into 

the  current  N.  E. 
pi  are  still  bordered 
'ew  small  bottoms  ofj 
he  Aborigines,  sub- 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  1. 


sist  •Imoat  entirely  on  th«h,n  *' 

"ver  St.  Louis,  M-hich  emptie- :!.?.*''  '^""'"'""^cates  with  th« 

•s  on  the  F  /'««  xt  X     .  ^^^^^^  with  san  nine     tu  «uout  50 

*e  river  ,o  theMe^i         "  "•  ""«  «'"f  »f  Metco     T,!  I:""™''' 

r""'e  Ji.side,  which  bel  """' ^"''  the  Riviere  I.  r 


'4 


56 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  I. 


in  -,  < 


^-'    \  I 


about  36  miles  in  circumference.  From  Lake  Winipeque  the  river 
continues  5  leagues  to  Upper  Reel  Cedar  Lake,  which  may  be 
ternie-]  the  Upper  Source  of  Mississippi.  The  Leech  Lake  Branch 
bears  (from  the  forks)  S.  W.  and  runs  through  a  chain  of  meadows. 
You  pass  Muddy  lake,  which  is  scarcely  any  thing  more  than  an 
extensive  marsh  of  1 5  miles  in  circumference ;  the  river  bears 
through  it  nearly  N.  after  which  it  again  turns  W.  In  many  places 
this  branch  is  not  more  than  ten  or  fifteen  yards  in  width,  although 
15  or  20  feet  deep.  From  this  to  Leech  Lake,  the  communication 
is  direct,  and  without  any  impediment.  This  is  rather  considered 
as  the  main  source,  although  the  Winipeque  Branch  is  navigable 
the  greatest  distance.  To  this  place  the  whole  face  of  the  country 
has  an  appearance  of  an  impenetrable  morass,  or  boundles  savanna. 
But  on  the  borders  of  the  lake  is  some  oak  and  large  groves  of  su* 
gar  maple,  from  which  the  traders  make  sufRcient  sugar  for  their 
consumption  the  whole  year.  Leech  Lake  communicates  with  the 
river  De  Corbeau  by  seven  portages,  and  the  river  Des  Feuilles 
also,  with  the  Red  river^  by  the  Otter  Tail  Lake  on  the  one'  side, 
and  by  Red  Cedar  Lake  and  other  small  lakes  to  Red  Lake  on  the 
other.  Out  of  these  small  lakes  and  ridges,  rises  the  upper  waters 
of  the  St.  Lawrence,  Mississippi,  and  Red  river,*  the  latter  of  which 
discharges  itself  into  the  ocean  by  Lake  Winipie  and  Hudson's  Bay. 
All  those  waters  have  their  upper  sources  within  100  miles  of  each 
other,  which  I  think  plainly  proves  this  to  be  the  most  elevated 
part  of  the  N.  E.  continent  of  America.  But  we  must  cross  (what 
is  commonly  termed)  the  Rocky  Mountains,  or  a  Spur  of  the  CoT' 
deliers,  previous  to  our  finding  the  waters,  whose  currents  run 
westward,  and  pay  tribute  to  the  western  ocean 

In  this  quarter  we  find  moose,  a  very  few  deer  and  bear,  but  i 
vast  variety  of  fur  animals  of  all  descriptions. 

The  first  nation  of  Indians  whom  we  met  with  in  ascending  the  j 
Mississippi  from  St.  Louis,  were  the  Sauks,  who  principally  reside 
in  four  villages.  The  1st  at  the  head  of  the  rapids  DeMoyenosI 
the  W.  shore,  consisting  of  13  log  lodg(  The  2d  on  a  prairie  on  I 
the  E.  shore,  about  60  miles  above.  The  3d  on  the  Riviere  Del 
Roche,  about  three  miles  from  the  entrance^  and  the  last  ontbe] 
river  Iowa. 

They  hunt  on  the  Mississippi  and  its  confluent  streams,  froml 
the  Illinois  to  the  river  Des  Iowa  ■  and  on  the  plains  west  of  themj 
which  border  the  Missouri.     They  are  so  perfectly  consolidated  witiil 

•  Red  river  discharges  itself  into  Hudson's  Bay,  by  Lake  Winipie  and  Nd'j 
son's  river. 


deer  and  bear,  but  a 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  I. 


by  Lake  Winiple  and  Nd 


<he  Reynards,  that  they  scam  i.,  ..  ^ 

but  recently  there  appear,  to  ^{  ,"1^  'Z""'^  «  «"«  nation , 
the  latter  not  approving  of  tJe  L^Z  "^'T" '''' '^'^  »«i°« 
«-r/.rf  the  conduct  of  the  former?       J  ""^  '"  '^^^  ''««»»  h- 
many  late  occurrences     Tk  T     °'^*''''"  *''•  United  Statei.  «n 

M-ha  -Pier:,  rsC,7„t.rr-  — -'^ 

Missouriesj  but  as  recemi.,         ^        ^*  Sauteaux,  Osaws   anrf 

M.»un,  and  b,  the  „me  ,„e7„,T.  ""*  ""'  »""•'"  of  th, 

*f  Principal  .Mie„  i.  ^p"""  ,h^  I""  'u  ''°""  *""'  «•««■.«! 

,  *"'  "-^y  bear  „i,„  LlZZJ^'^X':"  "■'">'"•  The  ch.„e"  r 
.ore  .0  be  dreaded  for  U-eir^ee.  ^"'  "'  ""•"■'>■  •«  ">»oh 
«"  for  open  courage.  ""  '""  ■"'"-"•ion  for  .imugen." 

Aoflhe  M,"i*ppTS  mi','"^  ""'"«'"■    The  1...  „„  .^e  w 

»•  3d.  on  Turkey  river,  hal™  lea  °  i  r      ?'  ""'"^  "''''".  '"d 
"Wdin  the  «,„e  wa™  and  t.       I"    ' '"'""«•    T'-'y  •" 

'P.«e.     They  l.un.L  Crdderr/r   M-'"'*''''"'"'''''""" 
Iw  low.,,  (below  , he  Prairie  D«rh,°  ^'""""PPi  from  th« 
K'  »W  viWage.     They  S«  a  la  ''"'^ !°  '  *"  »'  ""'  "™' 
h".i  .he  former  of  iLe.,Sr°"'7"f  ™"'' bean.,  "•" 
fc>"y  hundred  bushels  per  ai,„„m  '"'='•  "•""•Wes.  aa  to  sell 

h^'r::;r.%:rr^r;T--ain.wo  " 

h  D.  Moyen,  and  weatward  ,o  ,hT  m"  '  *"'™^''P'>  "» 
r «'  "-  ">o  ««n.e  as  the  Sauk,  a„d  r"°"";  ""'"  "'"  '"O 
l««l  protection  they  conceive  the^!  ,  ''""■'''  •'  ""''er  whose 
h'com;  but  not  so  much  „   '  " '° '"•    ThcrculUvate 

t*;    T'  -ir  residence  being  onT"'"",?  ""^  "'"'"»''  r'^ 
-Mmm,ppi,  out  of  thellh  ,^'!r'''»'"™-"  .he  rear  of 
[•  criliwd  than  those  naUonf  °'  ""''-"ce,  render,  them 

7  ;;"t'S  irt  c'^tht'rd  r  ""'^ "'  *'  - 

Jauflioni  on  the  W.  side  of  thTJ'    •    "       °'"  *^^  «"*'"«nce  of 
h  Des  W,  above  th^^^l     o^;";^.^''''^^^  «P  »"«  latter  river 
H";  but  theli,nits  between  thel!'f"'^"^''*''"'«'-^*°  the 

r^  --^  -i.ed  by  .hf":irrofie";^-:fppi,t 


;; 


U) 


I,; 


5$ 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  I. 


now  ceded  to  the  United  States ;  but  they  reverved  to  theni3otvc» 
the  privilege  of  hunting  and  residing  on  it  att  usual. 

By  killing  the  celebt  uted  Sauk  chief  Pontiaci  the  Illinois,  Cu- 
hokiaS)  Kaskuakias  and  Piorias,  kindled  a  war  with  the  allied  nntioiri 
of  Saukft  and  Reynarda,  which  has  been  the  cause  of  the  aUnost 
entire  destruction  cf  the  former  natrons. 

The  Winebagos,  or  Puants,  are  a  nation  who  reside  on  the 
rivers  Ouiscousing,  De  Roche i  Fox  and  Green  Bay,  in  seven  villa- 
ges) which  are  situated  as  follows  viz : 


|a'  5 


1st.  At  the  entrance  of  Green  Bay. 
2d.  End  of  do. 

3d.  Wuckan,on  the  Fox  river. 
4tlt.  At  Lake  Puckway. 


5th.  Portage  of  the  Ouls- 
cousir.g. 

6th  and  7th.  Both  on  Ro- 
che river. 


Those  villages  are  so  situated,  that  the  Winebagos  can  embo- 
dy the  whole  force  of  their  nation,  at  any  one  point  of  their  territo- 
ly  in  four  days.    They  hunt  on  the  Ouiscousing,  Rock  river,  and  E. 
side  of  the  Mississippi ;  from  the  Rock  river  to  the  Prairie  Des 
Cbiens  ;  on  Lake  Michigan,  Black  river,  and  the  country  between  i 
Lakes  Michigan,  Huron,  and  Superior.   From  the  tradition  amongst 
them,  aud  the'r  speaking  the  same  language  of  the  Otc3;  of  the! 
Rivife  Platte,  I  am  confident  in  asserting  that  they  are  a  nationl 
who  huve  emigrated  from  Mexico,  to  avoid  the  oppression  of  the] 
Spaniards ;  and  the  time  may  be  fixed  at  about  one  and  a  half  cen-j 
turies  past,  when  they  were  taken  under  the  protection  of  the  Siouxl 
to  v/hom  they  still  profess  to  owe  faith,  and  at  least  brotherly  atten-l 
tion.     They  have  formerly  been  at  war  with  the  nations  west  of  thej 
Mississippi,  but  appear  recently  to  have  laid  down   the  hatcheij 
They  are  reputed  brave,  but  from  every  circumstance  their  neigb^ 
bors  distinguish  their  bravery  as  the  ferocity  of  a  tiger,  rather  tbii 
the  deliberate  resoiuilon  of  a  man.     And  recently,  their  conduq 
has  been  such  as  to  authorisie  the  remark  made  by  a  chief  of  a  mm 
boring  nation,  "  That  a  wl)ite  man  never  should  lay  down  to  sleeg 
without  precaution  in  t'\eir  villages." 

The   Menomenc  or  Fols  Avoins  (as  termed   by  the  Frenclj 
nation,  reside  in   seven  villages,  situated  as  follows,  viz.     1st. 
the  river  Mcnomene,  15  leagues  from  Green  Bay,  north  side  of  tl 
lake.    2d.  At  Green  Bay.     3d.  At  Little  Kakalin.    4th.  Peru 
of  Kakalin.     5th.  Stinking  Lake.     6th.  Entrance  of  a  small 
on  Fox  river ;  and  7th.  Behind  the  Bank  of  the  Dead,    Their  hui 


APPENDIX  TO  PAu  I   I. 


59 


„e  iWinois,  Ca- 

B  o{  the  a\mo»« 

3  veaWe  on  the 
y,  in  seven  vilte- 


.rtagcofthcOiiU- 

(using- 

J  rth.  Both  on  Ko- 

he  river. 

inebaRoscanewho. 
,ointonheirtemto. 
.  Uock  river,  and  b. 

'to  the  Praivve  l)« 
the  country  bctv^cen 
,he  tradition  amongst 

of  the  Otc3,  of  tk 
Mttheyareanauon 

be  oppression  ;>J;^^ 
,oneandahuU«n. 

otectionoftheSiou., 


Ing  grounds  arc  ftlmilar  to  the  Winebagos ;  only,  that  owing  to 
tlio  very  high  estimation  in  which  they  are  held,  both  by  Siou^  and 
Cliipeways,  they  are  frequently  permitted  to  hunt  near  the  Raven 
river  on  the  Mississippi ;  which  may  be  termed  the  battle  ground 
between  those  two  great  nations.  The  language  which  they  apeak  is 
'ingular ;  for  no  white  man  has  ever  yet  been  known  to  acquire  it,  but 
this  may  probably  be  attributed  to  their  all  understanding  the 
Algonquin,  in  which  they  and  the  Winebagos  transact  all  confe- 
rences with  the  whites  or  other  nations ;  and  the  facility  with  which 
that  language  is  acquired,  is  a  ''arther  reason  for  its  prevalence. 

The  Fdls  Avoins  although  a  small  nation,  are  respected  by  all 
their  neiglibors  for  their  braveiy,  and  independen;  spirit,  and  es- 
teemed by  the  whites  as  their  friends  and  protectors.  When  in  the 
country,  I  have  heard  their  chief  assert  in  council  with  the  Sioux 
and  Chipeways,  "  That  although  they  were  reduced  to  few  in  num- 
"ber,  yet  they  could  say,  we  never  were  slaves."  As  they  had 
always  preferred,  "  that  their  women  and  children  should  die  by  their 
"own  hands,  to  their  being  led  into  slavery  by  their  enemies."  The 
boundary  of  their  territory  is  uncertain.  The  Sauks,  Reynards, 
Puants,  and  Menomenes,  all  reside  (when  not  at  their  villages) 
in  lodges  in  the  form  of  an  ellipsis,  and  some  are  from  30  to  40 
feet  in  length,  by  14  or  15  wide,  which  are  sufficiently  large  to 
I  shelter  60  people  from  the  storm,  or  for  30  to  reside  in.  Theif 
covering  are  rushes  plaited  into  mats,  and  carefully  tied  to  the  poles. 
In  the  centre  are  the  fires,  immediately  over  which  is  a  small  va- 
Icaucy  in  the  lodge,  which,  in  fair  weather,  is  sufficient  to  give  vent 
[to  the  smoke  ;  but  in  bad  weather  you  must  lay  down  on  the  ground 


/east  brotherly  atten-Mmprgvent  being  considerably  incommoded  by  it. 


Ihe  nations  west  ofth. 

X,\  down  the  hatche 

tt,mstance  their  nei?l 

ofatiger,rathenhi 

their  condut 


We  nesct  come  to  that  powerful  nation  the  Sioux,  the  dread  of 
horn  is  extended  over  all  the  savage  nations,  from  the  confluence 
f  the  Mississipjii  and  Missouri,  to  the  Raven  river  on  the  former, 
d  to  the  Snake  Indians  on  the  latter  ;  but  in  those  limits  are  many 
itions  whom  they  consider  as  allies;  on  similar  footing  with  th6 
ies  of  ancient  Rome,  i.  e.  humble  dependants.  But  the  Chipe- 
ould  lay  down  to  sw'Mjy  nation  is  an  exception  who  have  maintained  a  long  contest  with 

lem,  owing  to  their  country  being  intersected  by  numerous  small 
med  by  the  Vrenci^tes^  water  courses,  impenetrable  morasses,  and  swamps ;  and  have 


[ecently» 
ebyachiefofaneiej 


tev 


Ist. 


s  follows,  viz.     "'•  '■therto  bid  defiance  to  ail  the  attacks isf  their  neighbors.     It  is  ne- 

1    gj^y^  north  side  O'msary  to  divide  the  Sioux  nation  into  the  different  bands,  as  distih- 

KaUalin.    *^^*  *  ^''''■lishcd  amongst  themselves,  in  order  to  have  a  correct  idea  of  theriri. 

Intrance  of  a  stnaU  mreeably  to  this  plan,  I  shall  begin  with  the  Minowa  Kantong^(jav 

the  Dead.    Their  n^j,3  De  Lac)  who  ejilend  from  the  Prairie  Des  ChienS)  to  La 


il 


1   •  II 


it 
IS'       s 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  I. 


imP 


Wf      $';        '      !•'  lit 


'■    "  '■'  '.'ij 

,    .1  b 

:;  t 

I  :  '■ 

^  ■;  :T 

I  ;|- 

iil' 

1 

i     ; 

■i| 

Prairie  du  Francois,  35  miles  up  the  St.  Peters.  This  band  is  uguiii 
•ub-diviUied  into  tour  divisions,  under  different  chiefs.  The  first  ol 
which  most  generajl^  reside  at  their  village  on  the  Upper  lowii 
river,  above  the  Prairie  Des  Chienb,  and  are  communded  by  VV  a< 
basha,  a  chief,  whose  father  was  considered  as  the  first  chief  of  all 
the  Sioux  nation.  This  sub-division  hunts  on  both  sides  of  the  Miu- 
tissippi,  and  its  confluent  streams  from  the  Prairie  Des  Chiens  to 
the  riviere  du  Boeuf.  'i  he  second  sub-division  resides  near  the 
bead  of  Lake  Pepin,  and  hunt  from  the  riviere  du  iiceuf  near  to 
the  river  St.  Croix.  Their  chief's  name  is  Tantangumani,  a  very  cele- 
brated war  chief.  Tiie  third  sub-division  resides  between  the  riviere 
fiu  Canon  and  the  entrance  of  the  St.  Peters,  are  headed  by  Chate- 
waconamani.  Their  principal  hunting  ground  is  on  the  St.  Croix. 
They  have  a  village  at  a  place  culled  the  Grand  Marais,  15  miles 
below  the  entrance  of  the  St.  Peters.  It  is  situated  on  the  east  bank 
of  the  Mississippi,  and  consists  of  eleven  log  huts.  The  fourth 
8ul)-division  is  situated  from  the  entrance  of  the  St.  Peters,  to  tk  i 
prairie  Des  Francois  ;  they  are  headed  by  a  chief  called  Chatamu- 
tah,  but  a  young  man,  Wyaganage,  has  recently  taken  the  lead  in  i 
all  the  councils  and  affairs  of  state  of  this  sub-band.  They  have  one 
village  nine  miles  up  the  St.  Peters,  on  the  N.  side.  This  band! 
(Minowa  Kantong)  are  reputed  the  bravest  of  all  the  Sioux ;  aniil 
bave  for  years  been  opposed  to  the  Fols  Avoin  Sauteurs,  who  arej 
reputed  the  bravest  of  all  the  numerous  bands  of  Chipeways. 

The  ^d.  band  of  Sioux,  are  the  Washpetong  (or  Gens  Des  Fieulj 
les),  nho  inhabit  the  country  from  the  Prairie  De  Francois,  near  top 
Roche  Blanche,  on  the  St.  Peters.  Their  first  chief  is  WasonquianniJ 
They  hunt  on  the  St.  Peters ;  alHo  on  the  Mississippi,  up  Uun 
river,  and  sometimes  follow  the  buflViu,  on  the  plains.  Their  su 
|)ivi>*ions  I  am  unacquainted  with. 

The  3d.  band  are  the  Sussitongs ;  they  extend  from  the  Rcclj 
Blanche,  to  Lac  de  Gross  Roche,  on  the  river  St.  Peters  ;  theys 
divided  into  two  sub-divisions.    The  1st.  band  called  the  Cawrecj 
.are  headed  by   the  chief  called  Wuckiew  Nutch,  (or  the  Tonnei 
Rouge.)    The   2d.  called  the   Suaaitongt  firofier^  and   headed 
Wacantoe,  (or  Esprit  Blue.)    Those  two  sub-bands  hunt  eastward! 
the  Mississippi,  and  up  that  river  as  far  as  the  Riviere  De  Corbeij 

The  4th.  great  band  ai*e  the  Yanctongs,  who  are  disper 
frpm  the  Montaignes  De  la  Prairie,  (which  extends  from  St.  I 
ters  to  the  Missouri)  to  the  river  De  Moyen.  TlMy  are  dividedij 
two  grand  divisions,  generally  termed  the  Yanctongs  of  the  m 
and  the  Yanctongs  of  the  south.    The  former  are  headed  by  a  cij 


APPENDIX  TO  PABT  I. 


'-'"".ne  up;  an<lo„,l,e„„,,r!.      ,'"'"'"'"")'  "•"»'  ">«  ri.„ 
*«  .eud  of  ,„e  rive,.  De  M^n      Th      '^  *""'  ""'"  8"«'"%  on 


OEWRAL  OBSERVATIONS. 

«"er  built  log  i,„„.  „rcSjd  '  "■""«">«  ""'rone,  who 
»"  -Lo^  only  a  v.,y  ,„  „  ^ul^u  ™  '  """  "''"-"'  "eetaWe, , 

N«d  .0  the  producUons^  Tw  "f ''"7 '"  »'"■'"">.  "Web,  wl«» 
h«enc.  «.roug,.al,,     t:l:7'     ""  ""'  '"^•"^ 'Oem  " 

'  any . king  superior  on  eha.  accor.  T       7"  ""  ""  °"-  ""-I" 
I     l'l«  Washpecong  are  a  12  '    T"""''  °"  "■«  Pl"i»»- 
h»i»  tie  ...onthof  Apri     'L        '  "")""'<=  ".e  river  S. 
h'  A<=  middle  of  AuKutt      S  '""  ■'"'"■"  f"""  'l-e  plains 

hl,a,.ae.e,.  of  bein/r^osu-l^LTLr  f,'  "'»-=.  hTv^ 

p/aro?ri:S-^^^^^^ 


^M# 


«?      ■ 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  I. 


^'^% 


\\ 


1 1 


<*,• 


1  [      »  i 


viors,  which  may  principally  be  attributed  to  their/  chief  the  Ton- 
nere  Bouge,  who,  at  the  present  day  is  allowed  by  both  white  people 
and  the  savages  of  the  diuerent  bands,  to  be  (after  their  own  chiefs) 
the  f.rst  man  in  the  Sioux  nation.  The  Yanctongs  and  Titongs  are 
the  most  independent  Indians  in  the  world  ;  they  follow  the  buffulo 
as  chance  directs  ;  clothing  themseb'cs  with  the  skin,  and  making 
their  lodges,  bridles,  and  saddles  of  the  same  materials,  the  flesh 
of  the  animal  furnishing  their  food.  Possessing  innumerable  herds 
cf  horses,  they  are  here  this  day,  500  miles  off  ten  days  hence,  and 
find  themselves  equally  at  home  in  either  place,  moving  with  a  ra- 
pidity scarcely  to  be  imagined  by  the  inhabitants  of  tho  civilized 
woWd.         ,  ■'       • 

The  trade  of  the  Minowa  Kantong,  Washpetong,  Sussitongs, 
and  part  of  the  Yanctongs,  is  all  derived  from  the  traders  of  Mi- 
chilimackinac ;  and  the  latter  of  those  two  bands  supply  the  Yanc- 
tongs of  the  north,  and  Titongs,  with  the  small  quantities  of  iron 
works  which  they  requi:  e.  Fire  arms  are  not  in  much  estinlation 
with  them.  The  Washpecoute  trade  principally  with  the  people  of 
Prnirie  Dcs  Chiens  ;  but  for  a  more  particular  explanation  of  this 
subject,  please  to  refer  to  the  table.* 

I'he  claims  of  limits  of  the  Sioux  nation,  are  allowed  by  all 
their  neighbors,  to  commence  at  the  Prairie  Des  Chiens,  and  as- 
cends the  Mississippi  on  both  sides,  to  the  Riviere  De  Corbeau,  up 
that  river  to  its  source  ;  from  thence  to  the  source  of  the  St.  Peters ; 
from  thence  to  the  Montaigne  De  La  Prairie  ;  from  thence  to  the 
Missouri  down  that  river  to  the  Mahas,  bearing  thence  N.  E.  to  the 
source  of  the  river  De  Moyen  ;  and  from  thence  to  the  place  of  be- 
gining.  They  also  claim  a  large  territory  south  of  the  Missouri, 
but  how  far  it  extends  is  uncertain.  The  country  E.  of  the  Missis- 
sippi, from  Rum  river  to  the  Riviere  De  Corbeau  is  likewise  in  dis- 
pute between  them  and  the  Chipevvays ;  and  has  been  the  scene  of  I 
many  a  sharp  encounter  for  near  one  hundred  and  fifty  years  past. 

From  my  knowlege  of  the  Sioux  nation,  I  do  not  hesitate  to  J 
pronounce  them  the  most  warlike  and  independent  nation  of  Indians] 
within  the  boundaries  of  the  United  States,  their  every  passion  be-i 
ing  subservient  to  that  of  war ;  but  at  the  same  time,  their  tradersi 
feel  themselves  perfectly  secure  of  any  combination  being  madel 
against  them,  but  it  is  extremely  necessary  to  be  careful  not  toin-j 
jiire  the  honor  or  feelings  of  an  individual,  which  is  certainly  thcj 
principal  causfc  of  the  many  broils  which  occur  between  them.    Buf 


See  tabic  F.  appendix  to  part  I,  facing  page  66. 


"»  anc 
P^PerioiJ 


,  chief  the  Tan- 
,th  white  people 
heir  own  chiefs) 
and  Titopgs  are 
)Uow  the  buffalo 
an,  and  making 
lerials,  the  flesh 
numerable  herds 
days  hence,  and 
noving  with  a  ra- 
s  of  tho  civilized 

tong,  Sv\ssitongs, 
he  traders  of  Mi- 
supply  the  Yanc- 

quantities  of  iron 
,  much  estiniaiion 

with  the  people  of 
explanation  of  this 

are  allowed  by  all 
ea  Chiens,  and  as- 
;re  De  Corbeau,  up 
,e  of  the  St.  Peters; 

from  thence  to  the 
thence  N.E.  to  the 

e  to  the  place  of  be- 
ith  of  the  Missouri, 
try  E.  of  the  Missis- 
;au  is  likewise  in  clis- 
las  been  the  scene  of 
and  fifty  years  past. 

I  do  not  hesitate  to 
lent  nation  of  Indians 
lieir  every  passion  be- 
,e  time,  their  traders 
nbination  being  made 
0  be  careful  not  toin- 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  I. 


obe  caremi  nut  i"- 
which  is  certainly  the 
x  between  tli^cm.    ^" 


[jg  Jiage 


66. 


"ever  was  a  trader  known  to  suffer  •     u 

y  -enting  any  i„,i,„,y  ^^^^^^  '"Jhe  estimation  of  the  nation 

he  hi.  of  .he  offender     Their  lutturl?  ''  *''"  '^  ''  "^"^  '^  *«kin^ 

bones;  their  visages,  and  H  7  ^''"""""^t'o'' }  Wfth  cheek 

0- t.aditions,  su^p:;.:  V  r"sr""';  "^^^''-  ^'"^tt 

Put«  "  in  my  mind,  beyond  111  ^      °"^  °^  "eighborin^  nations 
f-ed  from  the  N.  ^   l^:;^Zll; '^^^^  ^^^ 
'-^-oss  the  narrow  streights,  Ihc1^t7h  !  '"  "''''^'^  ^"^^  ''«^'  <=on,e 
-tments;  and  are  absolut  17    tl^^  7"-  divides  the  two 

.  ^^e  only  personal  knowLH  li     .  ?    ^  Tartarean. tribe, 
nation,  is  restricted  to  the  tr^s^^^^^  I  have  of  the  Chipeway 

-d  waters  of  the  Chi;: '/ ^   ^n^I' 1'^  °' ^^''^  ^up'rior! 
^vi»o  reside  at  Sandy  Lake,  Leech  L\      o  .^'  ""'"^^  '  «"d  those 
-1  the  head  of  the  rivers  Ro  '      uT  -""""^^  ^^'^«'  ^^^  Lake 
f hey  are  divided  into  many  banl' n  .  T^^''  «"d  De  Corbeau 
;;7°^7^^^^Ia-onlyacTuaS2t;  t  k""^^  ^he  names "f 
Stable  and  Sang  Sue,  with  th.      r        ^"P^^o""'  and  on  Lakes  De 
fy  denominated  b^r  '  t 'aL'r^h'L  '°""^'-^-     '^ '^^  «-  gef,! 
those  of  the  head  wafers  of  he  cm;-  '     '  "'^^  °^  Sauteuxs    but 
called  You  Avoin  Sauteu.  s   ^'/^^'^^P-^^X'  and  St.  Croix  riveV,  a^ 
-chiefs.     Thoseof  Sandy  LTkr^T'"^'""'^^''*'  "-- o" 
Caawabata,CorDc  Breche.)     Thev  T  ""''''' '^  «  ^hief  called 
Lake,  and  the  east  bank  of   i     Ir  ^.    ""*  °"  'he  AlijJe  Lacs   H.,i 
"^nver  Des  Corbeau  'an    t^theT^''^^'  '''"^  '^^  "-  uP    o 
;-l>pi  to  PineHver    on^TZ^r  '^^^'^^^^  ^^  ^he  C 
Lake  De  Sable,  and  about  loo  2L    T  "^  ''''  ^Mississippi  to      " 
Leech  Lake  hunt  on  its  streams,       ke  W  ''•  '"'  '''''■     ^ho-  of 
Lake,  the  Otter  Tail  Lake,  held  of  M         "'^^''  ^'^'P''  ^^^  Cedar 
JPPer   part  of  Lower  R  d    X,        tILT  ^t  •'^°"''^'^"'  -^'  ''-         ' 
Watte,  (or  Eskibugeckoge.)  '      ^  '''^''  "^"^^  ^^  Le  Gieulle 

°» «^'r^:  's:t::::;^^^^'  .^-^^  ^-^  ^"  ^-  vi^nity.  and 

,  /d.  The  Nepesangs  res      rUL'^  T""'^''  CorLeSuc-r.) 
St.  Joseph.  °"  Lake  Nippising,  and  on  Lake 

-- dis^te^^^^^^^^^^  ';^e  of  the  two  fountains, 

;;-this  tribe  thelfnguage    n  '^^^^^^  Ontario  and  E^' 

"^  the  whole  nation  is  frecmentj!  ^    •  ^'"P^^^^^^  derives  its  name 
^^  ^th.  TheOtowaysriri^'   :7-;^^ythatappel,ati 
'"'  and  Lake  Huron  •  and  h     .  ^'  ^'^"'  "^  Lake  Michi 

iperior.  '  ^"^  hunt  between  those  lakes  and  Tat 


HH 


I 


:sii;- 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  I. 


:/?  i 


i*' 


M 


■     rhloewaVB,  are  dUpersed  alo.>S  tl<e  banks 
6,1,.  The  Iroquol.  ph>P««»y'\„  ,„  ,he  Lake  of  the  Wood.. 
of  all  the  Grea,  Lake,,  f""  On'  ™  »  «        ^^,^^,  „t  ^,„  Red 

river,  near..!  Lake  W-P'-  ""^j:,;]  ,,„„„ natural  ene^e.of 
«y..  The  Chipe-ways«re  the  gr<  „f  extern..na,.on 

,kIsioux,  »ith  «hon,  •''"J'';^^^;  :■:  f  aln,  .hen.,  I  -ceeded 
for  near  t»o  centum,.     «  n  m,  a  ^^  ^^^  ^,^„  ^  ^ 

in  inducing  both  ,.de,  •.»  ^6   ^.^  Ji  uftthe  co.n.ry.    Th.aol,- 
from  Sept.  1805,  to  Apr.  1806,  ^l^'"  „,^  British  govern- 

ec"had  frequently  been  (.n  '»'"}  »f  ^  Vo  nation,  together,  at 
^;:n..  «'- often  bro»g"*e;'-:^»'„^^^^^  ,„,  ,he  Slou.,  sull 
Michir.mackinac  ,  made  ''  '"j;  ^  ^^ferred  ccl»e>  I  an<^  «" 
haughty  and  overbearing.  »P»"^^  *',  ^„j  „arbarity.  It  n.ay  then 
';Ve<l  0  renet.  the  scene,  "f  »'  °t  Jl.h  20  men,  and  no  presents 
be  demanded,  ho«  could  a  subalt    "  -'»  ,.,  „f  Canada.  »..h 

,,<,„by  of  notice,  effect  that,  »h,  h  «      g    ^^_^^__^  ^^ 
all  the  immense  finance,  of  the  Inma        '       ,     ecommended  .t  i 
in    aln;  although  they  '-^"'""Vnf  itT, true;  requested,  recom- 
I  reply   that,  the  British  go-™^"  \  ^  '^,  „  Ustancc ,  a..d  t.h.a 
mended,  and  made  P«-"'»  • '™  ''       '  ,tt  of  blood  soon  obhte- 
L  chief,  returned  to  .hcu-  k""^;-  «;''      „f  h„„.„i,y,  tvhtch  the, 

„.ed  from  their  "-"'"■■""/''^i  Xaa--  »"''  "'""J  T 
had  heard  in  *="""" '"'"JredSutrs  had  lately  aeqmred  the 
peared  amongst  them,  *'.  ""'^^es  of  the  American,  (as  v.-". 
Lisdiction  over  them,  and  the  name  ^,_^^  ,  ,p„keto 

'J^^,)  had  frequently  ncen  »""'''/ .'"'^;''   „\h;„ame  of  their  gres. 

11  on  the  subject,  1  ''-"•'^'l^^X^^'  "=-«' "'  *=  "'""• 
r.,her,  to  make  peace ,  -^  »«  f  *^„ ,  and  spoke  of  the  pca«, 
tionand  gua.antee  ol  "'""'=„^ento  make  themselves  and 
"ot  a,  a  benefit  tons,  but  a  ^'^P^;"^"       ,„,,  „atlons,  «lth  .h. 

children  happy.    Tb-  '""'^rhanpy  coincidence  of  circumstance.; 

.ssista.,ceof  the  t™der„  =  ]»W  «  „e  almighty,  affected  U.. 

and  (may  I  not  add  >.)  the  a,s.stance  o  j,y  „,. 

:bid:hld  long  been  ->-Pf/„;:;:^".„een  U,o,c  tl  nations,  «i* 
vi„c.d,thut,unles,tvoop,aresen  upbet      ^^^^^^^^^  _..^,„^,. 

an  agent,  tvhose  bus.ness.t  «°"  "  ,„at  the  tveapo., 

ZJ;  and  check  the  Oroo^ng ^P^''-J  «  J  ^^  ^^,.^e  barban, 

,t  death  will  ag«.n  be  raised,  and  m 

„iU  resound  through  the  '■"^^^^^  ^„^,„ed  ,o  spirituous  liq..o|' 
The  Chipetvays  are  uncommonly  at      ,,^„  fi„j  i,  „„ch  toth. 

butm.ynotthl,beo«ing.ot.^^^j-.^^  ^„.,^,,,  „,i.He„a* 
interest  to  encourage  the.r 


y*i 


rm 


the  ban\ts 

uower  Red 
i  of  Ch\pe. 
enemies  of 
itertninauon 
\  succeeded 
30d  was  sbed 
^y.    Tbisob- 
pUish  govem- 
,atoselber,at 
Sioux,  suW 
and  re- 
j     It  may  then 
and  no  presets 
of  Canada,  wth 
t  had  attet^P^ed 
.commended  u? 
equested,  recotu- 

tancc  -,  a"" 
blood  soon  obbie- 
,  whicb  they 


.amty» 
But, 


when 


1  ap- 


iteiy  acqmf 


\ev 


icans 


nd  w^^en 


lame 


ed  the 

warvi- 


(as 
I spo^e 


to 


of  their  great 

oil'*'  "  i;, 

nefitoftV^*^^^'^' 


ipoke 


of  tbe  peiice 


:n\8clv 


es 


w 


and 
ith  tbc 


nations, 

circumstances 


of 

igbtyi 
ll  am  pe 


aftec 


ted  tW 


con' 


lose 


two 


rfeclly 
,fttion8,^v 


iA 


:h  tbe 


rising 


discon' 


that 


tbe  weapowi 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  1.  m 

them  to  obtain  their  peltries  at  so  I  ?w  a  rate,  as  scarcely  to  be  denom- 
inated  a  consideration,  and  have  reduced  the  people  near  the  este- 
blishments,  to  a  degree  of  degradatiiui  unparalleled  ?  The  Algonquin 
language  is  one  of  the  most  copious  and  sonorous  languages  of  all  the 
savage  dialects  in  North  America  >  and  is  spoken  and  understood  by 
the  various  nations  (except  the  Sioux)  fron»  the  Qulf  of  St.  ltaw« 
rence  to  Lake  Winipie. 

This  nation  is  much  more  mild  and  docile  than  the  Sioux  }  an4 
(if  we  may  judge  from  unprejudiced  observers)  more  cool  «nd  de« 
liberate  in  action  ;  but  the  latter  possess  a  much  higher  sense  of  the 
honor  of  their  nation  :  the  others  filan  for  aelffireaervation.     The 
Sioux  attack  with  impetuosity,  the  other  defends  with  every  neces- 
sary precaution.     But  the  superior  number  of  the  Sioux,  would 
have  enabled  them  to  have  annihilated  the  Chipeways  long  since, 
had  it  not  been  for  the  nature  of  their  country,  which  entirely  pre- 
cludes the  possibility  of  an  attack  on  horseback.    Also,  gives  them 
a  decided  advantage  over  an  enemy,  who,  being  half  armed  with 
arrows,  the  least  twig  of  a  bush  would  turn  the  shaft  of  death  out 
of  its  direction.     Whereas,  the  whizzing  bullet  holds  its  course, 
nor  spends  its  force  short  of  the  destined  victim.     Thus,  we  ger.e^ 
rally  have  found,  that,  when  engaged  in  a  Prairie  the  Sioux  came 
off  victorious ;  but  if  in  the  woods,  even,  if  not  obliged  to  retreat^ 
the  carcases  of  their  slaughtered  brethren  ahew  how  dearly  they 
purchase  the  victory. 

The  Sioux  are  bounded  on  tbe  N.  £.  ^ad  N.  by  theeo  tvMi 
powerful  nations,  the  Chipeways  and  Knisteneaux,  whose  marr?  rsi 
strength,  and  boundaries,  are  ably  described  by  sir  Alexander  M^ct 
kenaie.  The  Assinniboins  (or  Stone  Sioux)  who  border  the  Chxpjj* 
ways  on  the  *  J  W.  and  W,  are  a  revolted  band  of  the  Sioux,  and 
have  maintained  a  war  with  the  parent  nation  for  about  »  century  ; 
and  have  now  rendered  themselves  their  most  violent  onemies^ 
They  extend  from  the  Red  river  west,  nearly  to  the  Rocky  IVloun* 
tains,  and  are  computed  at  1 500  warriors.  They  reside  on  th^ 
plains,  and  follow  the  buiFalo,  consequently  they  hiive  very  littlo 
[pccasion  for  traders  or  European  productions. 

Z.  M.  Pike, 
I  St,  Lieut.  1st  United  States  Regt.  Infty. 


of  savage 


barba 


xm 


1; 


I 


ll'.' 


i'i'i   I 


'11  3 

Ay 


y:  f* 


«•>  :i- 


.14  ^}k 


M'- 


It, 

o 

U 


•suiJV  *J!J  J°  '°N 


•spi"  g  Suuo^ 
aqj  JO  saSpoq  jo  -o^ 


O       O       O       O       O       »n  o> 

Q       O       vj       »o       O       <0  Tj< 

»^       ■*       (N        '»       '-        O*  O         •* 

-«  C«        >o 


O 


o 


00 


•sinog. 
JO  .loquinu  Jiq^qoaj 


o  o  o  o 

«0  lo  O  >o 

00  b»  ^  Ov 

c»  —  —  — 


O      >n  1^ 

>o      1^  »■- 

CO       «o  •-• 

^•m        ^^^  ^* 

C\  — 


•b33b||ia  jo  -o^j 


M 


n      CT 


<n 


■us-jpim?/  JO  0^ 


o 

o 


o     o 

wj       o 
00       b- 


o     o 

o     o 

)^        00 


V5 


•UOUIO;W  JO  •o^Ni 


b- 


o 

o 

V) 


o 

o 


o 

o 


o     o 

»0         CO 
CO        ■* 


10 

00 


CO 


•SJOUJB^  JO  -O^ 


o     o 
o     o 


o     o 

O         «0 


o 
o 

eo 


CO 

00 
CO 


o 

0» 


CD 

O 
H 

M 
H 

O 
< 


CO 


75 


C 


en 


o 

in    *? 


CO 

D 

CO 


CO 

u 


c* 


O 
00 


n 


III 

W.V.  I  < 


C< 


CO 


c* 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  II. 


A  DISSERTATION 


■A 


en    0- 


On  the  soil,  rivers,  productions,  animal  and  vegetablr, 
with  general  notes  on  the  internal  parts  of  louisi- 
ana, compiled  fr  omobsekvations  made  by  capt.  z.  m.  pike, 
in  a  late  tour  from  the  mouth  of  the  missouri.  to  the 
head  ;vaters  of  the  aukansaw  and  rio  del  norte-  in 
the  tears  1806  and  1807  ;  including  observations  on  the 
aborigines  of  the  country. 

FROM  the  entrance  of  the  Missouri,  on  the  south  bank,  the 
I  land  is  low,  until  you  arrive  at  Belle  Fontaine,  four  miles  from  its 
Icntrance.  In  this  distance  are  several  strata  of  soil,  one  rising 
jabove  the  other.  As  the  river  is  cutting  off  the  north  point,  and 
{making  land  on  the  south,  this  is  well  ditibered  with  oak,  Avalnut, 
^sh,  Sec.  Sec. 

From  Belle  Fontaine  to  St.  Charles,  the  north  side  of  *  he  Mis- 
ouri  is  low,  bounded  on  its  banks  by  timbered  land,  extending  from 
half  a  mile  to  one  mile  from  the  river.  On  the  south  side  the  bottoms 
re  narrow,  the  hills  frequer>tly  coming  m  on  the  river.  Six  miles 
blow  St.  Charles,  on  the  south  side,  in  frontof  a  village  called  Flo- 
pant,  is  a  coal  hill,  or  as  it  is  termed  by  the  French,  La  Charbon- 
Bere.  This  is  one  solid  stoae  hill,  which  probably  aftbrds  sufticient 
pel  for  all  the  population  of  Louisiana,  St.  Charles  is  situated  on 
|ie  we?t  side  of  the  Missouri,  where  the  hill  first  joins  the  rive/, 
|id  is  laid  out  parallel  to  thf  stream. 


APPENDIX  to  PART  11. 


|i 


-aii 


The  main  street  on  the  first  bank,  the  3nd.  on  the  top  of  the  hill. 
Oh  this  street  is  situated  a  round  wooden  tower,  formerly  occupied 
by  the  Spaniards  as  a  fort  or  guard  house,  now  converted  into  a  pri< 
(iotit  l^rotn  this  tower  you  have  an  extensive  view  of  the  river  be> 
lowt  St.  Charles  consists  of  about  80  houses,  principally  occupied 
by  Indian  traders  or  their  engagees.  It  is  the  seat  of  justice  for 
the  district  of  St.  Charles. 

From  St.  Charles  to  the  village  of  La  Charrette,  the  West  side 
is  (generally  low,  but  hills  running  parallel  at  a  great  distance  back 
from  the  river :  on  the  south  side,  more  hilly  with  springs.  Scat- 
tering settlements  on  both  sides. 

La  Charrette,  is  the  last  settlement  we  saw  on  the  Missouri, 
although  there  is  one  above,  at  a  saline  on  the  ^^  est  side.  From  La 
Charrette  to  the  Gasconade  river,  you  find  on  the  north,  low  laad 
heavily  timbered.  On  the  south,  hills,  rivulets  and  a  small  number 
of  small  creeks ;  very  high  cane.  The  Gasconade  'u->  200  yards 
vride  at  its  entrance ;  is  navigable  at  certain  seasons  100  miles.  At 
the  time  we  were  at  it,  it  was  backed  by  the  Mississippi,  but  was 
clear  atid  transparent,  above  their  confluence.  On  the  opposite 
side  to  their  confluence,  commences  the  line  between  the  Sac  In- 
diana and  the  United  States. 

tiom  the  Gasconade  to  the  entrance  of  the  Osage  liver,  the 
MMith  aide  of  the  river  is  hilly,  but  well  timbered.    On  the  north 
al«  low  bottoms  and  heavy  timber;    In  this  space  of  the  Missouri, 
iVom  its  euu-ance  to  the  Osage  rivtsr,  we  find  it  well  timbered,  nch 
eoii,  and  very  proper  for  the  cultivation  of  all  tie  productions  of  our 
middle  and  western  states.    It  is  timbered  generally  with  cotton 
wood,  ash)  oak,  pecan,  hickory  and  with  some  elm  ;  but  the  cotton  { 
wood  predominates  on  all  the  ntade  bottoms.    From  the  entrance  of 
the  Osage  river,  to  the  Giavel  river,  a  distance  of  1 18  miles,  the 
banks  of  the  Osage  are  covered  with  timber,  and  possess  a  very 
rich  soil.    Smal'.  hills,  with  rocks,  alternutely  border  the  eastei-n  and  j 
western  shores ;  ;ht  bottoms  being  very  excellent  soil,  and  tlic  f^m' 
try  abounding  in  game.    From     xncc  to  the  Yungai*,  the  river | 
continues  the  same  appearance }  the  shoals  and  islands  being  desig* 
nated  on  the  chart.     1  he  Yungar  (or  Ne  hem-gar)  as  termed  by] 
the  Indians,  derives  its  name  from  the  vast  number  of  springs  atj 
its  source  ;  it  is  supposed  to  be  nearly  as  extensive  as  the  Osage 
river,  navigable  for  canoes   100  miles,  and  is  celebrated  for  the 
abundance  of  bear,  which  are  found  on  its  branches.    On  it  hunt| 
the  Chasseuts  du  Boisot  Louisiana,  Osage,  and  Creeks  (or  Musko 
gees')  a  wandering  party  of  which  have  es  abiished  themselves  iu 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  IJ. 


I^uismna ;  and  between  «,i,  ^ 

-Aou  20  paces  from  the  bank  oitll  I'  ""'  "  «  ^'^  -^  ^  teT 
cumference ;  it  was  elevated  T  ,  '^''*'''  «"^  ^aJf  a  mUe  in  ' 
the  river     Ti,;       * '''*'^*«"  at  ieast  20  fept  «k^        *•  ">^e  m  cir- 

■  ""-•;  ^-"'■-app.a.;,  ;trre 't?""''''  "'  «>"  '-o  "/ 

From  thence  to  a  few  mi/..  ,   ,        '"' ""''  ""c*  deducuon 
'"k'  of  .he  ri,er  contiTe:":  „';'""  *°  ''"^'  (««  cha^o  "h, 
""  ""^-'ained  with  the  s.1"  ^f  „  ^°"'"''  ''"•">=  S™.  ime 

;~  ..a  .„„, ,  w^j^irsis:;:  ^^^^ 

,       In  this  district  the  cliffy  »k-  .  ^''°'* 

H'ng  round  and  pa,,  .he  villa 'Tt''^  ™'  ""=  ""-f-m  oneVSl' 

K  -ells,  and  slopin'^  ZT^Z:^'"""  "'^--fiel  ZZ 
t'.  "Mch  are  „„  d„„h.  del.idrcrr^''^  "^  '^"'"-'^ 
H'  "ver,  ia  .  reference  .0  my  ^h!^       T-  *'  ""S""™  "f  £1 
pi,  we  found  plentv  nf  ri         .  ®  prairies  on  th^  -it 

h  •l'«y  l«co„.  ,,,,7  "^^  ^^^  e'k  and  deor,  b„.  nea.  .,«  wf 

r5~"'=-or;rcoif^  ' 


"J    'At 


v,l 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  II. 


hK  ■  ■ 

'i  ■ 


^i  L'. 


'W 


i> 


l4    .H       II 


« 


only  limited  by  the  imbecility  of  our  si^ht.    The  vraters  of  the 
White  river  and  the  O  >age,  are  divided  merely  by  a  small  ridge 
in  the  prairie,  and  the  dry  branches  appear  to  interlock  at  their  head. 
From  thence  to  the  main  branch  of  said  river,  the  country  appeared 
high  and  gravelly  ridges  of  prairie  land.    On  the  main  White  river 
is  large  timber  and  fine  ground  for  cultivation.    Hence  a  doubt 
arises  as  to  the  disemboguing  of  this  stream.     Lt.  Wilkinson  from 
some  authority,  has  drawn  the  conclusion,  that  it  discharges  itseif 
into  the  Arkansaw,  a  short  distance  below  the  Vermillion  river-^ 
but  from  the  voyages  of  capt.  Maney,  on  the  IVhite  river,  the  infor- 
mation of  hunters,  Indians,  8cc.  I  am  rather  induced  to  believe  it  to 
be  the  White  river  of  the  Mississippi— as  at  their  mouths  there  is 
not  so  great  a  difference  between  their  magnitude  ;  and  all  persons 
agree  in  ascertaining  that  the  White  river  heads  between  the  Osage 
river,  Arkansaw  and  Kanses  rh'ers,  which  would  still  leave  the 
Arkansaw  near  800  miles  more  lengthy  than  the  White  river.  From 
these  proofs,  I  am  pretty  confident  in  asserting,  that  this  was  the 
White  river  of  the  Mississippi  which  we  crossed.     At  the  place 
where  we  traversed  it,  the  stream  was  amply  navigable  for  canoes, 
even  at  this  dry  season  (August)  of  the  year. 

Up  this  river  to  the  dividing  ridges,  between  it  and  the  Verdi- 
grise  river,  the  bottom  is  of  somQ  magnitude  and  importance,  but! 
the  latter  river  is  bounded  here  in  a  narrow  bed  of  prairie  hills,  ii.Uhlo;  j 
fording  not  more  than  sufficient  timber  for  fire  wood  for  a  limitedj 
number  of  inhabitants  for  a  few  years.    From  the  Verdigrlse,  ourj 
course  apjain  lay  over  gravelly  hills  and  a  prairie  country,  but  welll 
watered  by  the  branches  of  the  Verdigriscand  White  rivers  (aliail 
Grand  river.)  From  this  point  to  the  source  of  White  river^  thereisj 
very  little  timber,  the  grass  short,  prairies  high  and  dry.    From  \ 
head  of  White  river  over  the  dividing  ridge  between  that  and  tbi 
Eastern  branch  of  the  Kans  river,  the  ridge  is  high,  dry,  and  h« 
many  appearances  of  iron  ore,  and  on   the  West  side  some  spai 
springs — Here  the  country  is  very  deficient  of  water,  from  tfci 
East  Branch  of  the  Kans  river  (by  our  route)  to  the  Pawnee  repulj 
lie  on  the  republican  fork,  (see  chart)  the  prairies  are  low,  liigl 
grass,  and  the  country  abounds  with  salines,  and  the  earth  appeal 
to  be  impregnated  with  nitrous  and  common  salts.    The  :mmed| 
ate  border  of  the  republican  fork  near  the  village  is  high  ridges,  I 
this  is  an  exception  to  the  general  face  of  the  country.    All  tt 
country,  between   the  forks  of  the   Kans  river,  a  distance  of 
miles,  may  be  called  prairie,  notwithstanding  the  borders  of  wo 
ittnd  which  ornament  the  banks  of  those  streams,  but  are  no  rad 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  II. 


IfcanaJine  tracedon  a.he.i„r  * 

""""  '■■«'  Of  ">o"<!o«  co„„,;.  •"""•  "■""  "■"P.r.d  to  ,h.  i™. 

exterminated  in  fh«  t,      •  **  <^onsequemJv  n,».  ^   ® 

"■  '"ch  iram,  „c  herd,  ..!       ''"^''««<l  the  female,  »i,h       "" 

•«  "ver,  ,0  ,he  Arkansas   ,L  '^'"■""  '<»"•  on  ehe  kJ! 

"umal„„„,,  b„,  ^T:  "h'  co„„,^  ^  "  tl.=  Kan. 

Wellalionof  monmain"    -T'^'Sive,  ,he  hill,  ,.„  „,i°  '""•'■• 
•fcentl,,  .he  so  "';,""«"  """  '"  '"'  Arta„r;:XV°  ""i"" 

lour  h„r;  -J,' ":  X  '"J"'  f- » '00?:^:-  ••  <»■<•- 

Mansaw  fon  .hi.  ,    "  '"  f™"'  of  ua     A.  '  *"=  S'^" 

l-l* brand.  ""^ ""'■'"  *5or30m'i,„  /""Wo^h  «■» 

F"CK  It,  IS  nearlir   *n«  ""^c.      *  lie  river  si(- fi,^    i         ""^"ng 

fcn  '"=  r  "'"•"' '-  Si  'atr '"  ""*  -'°» -°? 

pert,    irom  thence,  about  S»ir  ""^  '°"t^>  «  sandy  st...;i 

oi  the  Arkansaw,  in  the 


W!      T'f 


m 


I    1 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  11. 


rp 


niountainsi  to  its  source,  a  distance  of  about  IfO  miles ;  (by  the 
meanders)  it  i-^  alternately  bounded  by  perpendicular  precipice*  in 
small  narrow  |  liries,  on  which  the  buffalo  and  elk  have  found  th<: 
means  to  arrive,  and  arc  almost  secure  from  danger,  from  their  dcs- 
troycr— Man. 

In  muny  places  the  Vivcr  precipitates  itself  over  rocks,  so  as  at 
one  moment  to  he  visible  only  in  the  foaming  and  boiling  of  its  wa- 
ters ;  at  the  next  moment  it  disappears  in  the  charms  of  the  o'er 
hanging  precipices. 

I'he  Arkansaw   river,  taking  its  meanders  agreeably  to  Lt 
Wilkinson's  survey  of  the  lower  part,  is  1981  miles  from  its  en- 
trance into  the  Mississippi  to  the  mountains,  and  from  thence  to  its 
source   192  miles,    making  its    total  length  2,173  miles,  all  of 
which  may  be  navigated  with  proper  boats,  constructed  for  the 
purpose;  except  the  192  miles  in  the  mountains.     It  has  einptp 
ing  into  it,    several    small  rivers  navigable  for   100    miles  and 
upwards.*     Boats  bound  up    the  whole  length  of   the  naviga- 
tion,   should  embark  at  its  entrance,   on  the   Ist  of   Februar)-;! 
when  they  would  have  the  frcbh  quite  to  the  mountains,  and  meet 
with  no  detention.     But  if  they  should  start  later,  they  would  find! 
the  rivi^r  1500  miles  up  nearly  dry.    It  has  one  singularity,  whiclij 
struct  hm;  very  forcibly  at  first  view,  but  on  reBection,  I  am  induced! 
to  h«;Ucve  It  is  the  same  case  with  all  the  rivers  which  run  througil 
&  iv*v,,  sk\  and  sandy  soil  in  warm  climates.    This  I  observed  tobol 
the  «:?Be  with  the  Rio  del  Norte,  viz :  for  the  extent  of  4  or  50 
miles  before  you  arrive  near  the  mountains,  the  bed  of  the  river  i 
extensive,  and  a  perfect  sand  bar,  which  at  certain  seasons  is  dr] 
at  least  the  water  is  standing  in  ponds,  not  affording  sufiicien' 
procure  a  running  course.    When  you  come  nearer  the  mount^iu 
you  find  the  river  contracted,  a  gravelly  bottom,  and  a  deep  navigi 
ble  stream.    From  these  circumstances  it  is  evident,  that  the  san 
soil  imbibes  all  the  wrtcrs  which  the  sources  project  from  the  moa 
tains,  and  renders  the  r:ver  (in  dry  seasons)  less  navigable  ^vel, 
dred  miles  ;  than  iOO  miles  from  its  source.     The  borders  of  i 
Arkansaw  river  may  be  termed  the  paradise  (terrestrial)  of  ourtJ 
ruories,  for  the  wandering  savages.    Of  all  countries  ever  visited! 
the  footsteps  of  civilized  man,  there  never  was  one  probably 
produced  game  in  greater  abundance,  and  we  know  that  the 
ners  and  morals  of  the  erratic  nations,  are  such  (the  reasons  I  Id 
to  be  given  by  the  ontologists)  as  never  to  give  them  a  numei 


*  See  Ix,  WiUdoioa's  report  of  the  lower  Arkansas. 


jS'.^ 


^0  miles  J  (by  the 
:ular  precipices  in 
elk  have  found  the 
rer.  iVom  their  des- 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  II. 


over  rocka,  so  as  at 
d  boiling  of  its  wa- 
charma  of  the  o'er 

rs  agreeably  to  Lt 
1  miles  from  its  en- 
id  from  thence  to  its 
2,173  miles,  all  of 

constructed  for  the 
iins.    It  has  empty- 

for  100  miles  and 
^gth  of  the  naviga- 
te Ist  of  February-; 
mountains,  and  meet 
later,  they  would  find  I 
singularity,  whicli| 


«0"n  taint, 

p«  of 
•ii  province  of 


iwpuJation ;  and  I  believe  tli»»  ♦•.  ' 

ficlent  on  the  banks  of  tL  A  1!''  *"!  ^"''^^"'  *"^'  "»<>  deer  suf. 

to  feed  ali  ehe  savage.  IX'^Zl  t?' ''  "^^  ""'   ^^  --» 

By  the  rome  of  .he  Arkansas  anTthaPr.''''"^^''^  ^^'^  '^««'"ry 

I  am  confident  in  aa«,rti„g  flf  mv  If  ^°'°''''^°  °^  ^-'iforhU^ 

-en  of  information  is  correcO  th.      """^^  ^'^'^  SP^'""**  KeX 

communication  on  this  side     ^/^^^r"  ^^  "^«'>"«''ed  the  Teli 

lanuc  and  Pacific  oceans  a!  T^       ■         °^  ^"^*'"  ''«^vee«  the  a/ 

-id  not  be  more  Z\:rJZ:ZVl'  "^'"°'^'  ''^  '^^'  -X' 

Mississippi  ^teGrp'r.E^^-'p'-f 

considerable  burden,  oppositltr'  ""''^""^' 
Senora.  opposite  to  the  upper  part  oi 

^ecou':,;::,'^:-^;:::^'^''"'''^""'  f"--. ,  passe,.. 

In  .his  „C3,,,.„  ,^„,,^,^     'f  "'".'■''  "■""'selves.  ' 

„  »hich  run  .hrc.  Jt,i„„ ;  f,.„„  „„„^„  „„,h, ",""!;  k"''  ""'""=  »""  '^-'"'P^c,  pot.' 
This  I  observed  w««r  various  branches  7, 1?  ""''  '"'  '''"■"=•  Aika„sa,n  d 
he  extent  of  4  or  SOlHwuce  a  limi,„|      °  ,    .'  "PP'""  ">  me  to  be  onlv  /;...«; 

.he  hea  of  the  rwe,  |.  u  .„ost:'at:;:.::r-''»^ '•''^S:h:ir  :\  ::: 

certain  seasons  »  d,|rf  c.„le,  horses,  sheen    a„,r  """'""°"  "^  "«  nmlUpUcaln 
.  .ffor<iingsufflei«,A.„<|a„ee,.l,ee  ru  p^'i^^'r'*'  '"  °'  ""•'="  «"=y  can'^.a™ 
.  nearer  the  ™o„n«J„,  ho.h  .vi„,er  ^nrsulTeftr-'r"'''"'""'"''-'''''-^  "P 
;om,  and  .  deep  n»*.come  immensely  numcnZ'.  ,    ,  t      """""  "■'"'■  '".-.ds  ,,,1^. 
,  evident,  tha.  the  ..*..ld„„,  he  suflic  e„"  foa  :    ^        """''  """ '"  the  co„2! 
,proi.ctfrom  .he»4.  ,5  years,  .„d  ,„e„  i  wolt""  t"  "'  "°P"'"'»".  n"-^' 
less  navigable  ><l*.ga„y  „f  ;,  ;„  „„„„?»    „rie,    °""  "'  ""=  1"-"°"  '»  ".inklf 

,  (.erre«r.al)  of  oorjck  manufae.ured  ,vi.h  fire      B  '^  "'  '^"'  ^pain ,  „  of  th. 

conntrie.  -"^•|«ry  of  „„,  „.,„,_  ;;:^«;  •    ^-  poss,b,y  ,i„,e  „ay  „,ake  .l^  t 
wa.  one  probablj  1      1  he  source  of  the  La  P-Z         ■        ^  '°"""T  habitable 
„e  know  that  the  1.  «ai„s  „iu,  ,he  Arkansas  '^I      I'  "l""'"^  "'  "'^  »^'e  chain  of 
s«ch  (the  reason,  1 1.  ».voir  of  s„„,,  and  foun^ls  !,    7'^ "°'' "™"  «™  <"'"8  "nd 
.give  them.nu™..  »side.o,he  Red  river  "I  bT;";/' "'""«'>  "■^ its  ..or,,?™" 
■:■'";  '*'''«"'"' ("n're«s«>,,h„e.. 

Tht  yellow  itone  river  of  Lewlj.; 
JO 


V 


If 

,  if 


1'  )'»ii 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


// 


1.0 


I.I 


11.25 


ISiyji    125 
■^   Uii    122 

us.    12.0 


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Sdences 
Corporation 


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33  WeST  MAIN  STRliT 

WEBSTIR.N.Y.  USSO 

(716)S72-4S03 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  II. 


ttrn  braticli)  «nd  the  La  Platte  ;  on  its  Routh  western  sidey  it  pro. 
duces  the  Rio  Colorado  of  California ;  on  its  east  the  Arkansaw, 
and  on  its  south  the  Rio  del  Norte  of  North  Mexico.  I  have  no 
hesitation  in  asserting;,  that  I  can  talie  a  position  in  the  mountains 
from  whence  I  can  visit  the  source  of  any  of  those  rivers  in  one 
day. 

Numerous  have  been  the  hypothesis  formed  by  various  natura- 
lists,  to  account  for  the  vast  tract  of  uniimbered  country  which  lies 
between  the  waters  of  the  Missouri,  Mississippi,  and  the  western 
Ocean,  from  the  mouth  of  the  latter  river  to  the  48°  north  latitude. 
Although  not  flattering  myself  to  be  able  to  «lucidate  that,  which 
numbers  of  highly  scientiBc  characters,  have  acknowleged  to  be 
beyond  their  depth  of  research  ;  still,  I  would  not  think  I  had  done 
my  country  justice,  did  I  not  give  birth  to  what  few  lights  my  exa> 
mination  of  those  internal  deserts  has  enabled  me  to  acquire.  In 
that  vast  country  of  which  we  speak,  we  find  the  soil  generally  dry 
and  sandy,  with  gravel,  and  discover  that  the  moment  we  approach 
a  stream,  the  land  becomes  more  humid  with  small  timber;  I 
therefore  conclude,  that  this  country  never  was  timbered,  as  from 
the  earliest  age,  the  aridity  of  the  soil  having  so  few  water  courses 
running  through  it,  and  they  being  principally  dry  in  summer,  has 
never  afforded  moisture  sufhcient  to  support  the  growth  of  timber. 
In  all  timbered  land,  the  annual  discharge  of  the  leaves,  with  the 
continual  decay  of  old  trees  and  branches,  cieatej}  a  manure  and , 
moisture,  which  is  preserved  from  the  heat  of  the  sun  not  being] 
permitted  to  direct;  his  rays  perpendicularly,  but  only  to  shed  them  J 
obliquely  through  the  foliage.  But  here  a  barren  soil,  parched  and  J 
dried  up  for  eight  months  in  the  year,  presents  neither  moisture  norj 
nutrition  sufficient,  to  nourish  the  timber.  These  vast  plains  of] 
the  western  hemisphere,  may  become  in  time  equally  celebrated! 
as  the  sandy  desarts  of  Africa ;  for  I  saw  in  my  route,  in  variouil 
places,  tracts  of  many  leagues,  where  the  wind  had  thrown  upthcl 
sand,  in  all  the  fanciful  forms  of  the  ocean's  rolling  wave,  and  ( 
%vhich  not  a  speck  of  vegetable  matter  existed.    . 

But  from  these  immense  prairies  may  arise  one  great  advanta 
to  the  United  States,  viz:  The  restriction  of  our  population! 
some  certain  limits,  and  thereby  a  continuation  of  the  union.  Oiij 
citizens  being  so  prone  to  rambling  and  extending  themselves,  i 
the  frontiers,  will,  through  necessity,  be  constrained  to  limit  thci 
extent  on  the  west,  to  the  borders  of  the  Missouri  and  Mis!>issi|f 
vhile  they  leave  the  prairies  incapable  of  cultivation  to  the  wandej 
i,ig  ai'.d  uncivilized  aborigines  of  the  country.    The  Osage  Indi4 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  n. 


9 


nttde,itpTo- 

ico.    Ibaveno 

the  mountains 

se  rivers  in  one 

-  various  natuta- 

and  the  west*'" 
180  north  latitude. 

cidate  r/«x'.  ^^f 
^cknovrlegcd  to  be 

jtlhinVtlt*'^^'^'^'^' 

^  soil  generaUy  dry 
^„„,entvre  approach 

ih  small  timber -.1 
sumbered^asfrotn 

,o(e.^aterco«rs- 

Uro.thoftvn.b^ 

the  leaves,  >vuh  t^e 
veate?  a  manure  ai^d 

of  the  sun  not  bens 

butonlylo«^^^«^f" 

'rensoU,pa-^^^"J^ 
s  neither  moisture  n. 

vast  plain*  ol 


appear  to  have  emigrated  from  the  north  and  vrest,  attd  from  thoir 
speaking  the  same  language  with  the  Kans,  Otos,  Missouries,  and 
Mahaws  ;  together  with  the  great  similarity  of  manners,  moralS}  and 
customs,  there  is  left  no  room  to  doubt,  but  that  they  were  origin- 
ally the  same  nation  ;  but  seperated  by  that  great  law  of  nature,  self* 
preservation,  the  love  of  freedom,  and  the  ambition  of  various  cha* 
racters,  so  inherent  in  the  breast  of  man.    As  nations  purely  erratic 
must  depend  solely  on  the  chase  for  subsistence,  (unless  pastoral, 
which  is  not  the  case  with  our  savages)  it  requires  large  tracts  of 
country,  to  afford  subsistence  for  a  very  limited  number  of  souls ; 
consequently,  seir-preservation  obliges  them  to  expand  themselves 
over  a  large  and  extensive  district.    The  power  of* certain  chiefs 
becoming  unlimited,  and  their  rule  severe,  added  to  the  passionate 
love  of  liberty,  and  the  ambition  of  other  young,  bold,  and  daring 
characters,  who  step  forward  to  head  the  malcontents,  and  like  the 
tribes  of  Israel,  to  lead  them  through  the  wilderness  to  a  new  land  ; 
the  land  of  promise,  which  flowed  with  milk  and  honey,  (alias 
abounded  with  deer  and  buffalo)     These  characters  soon  succeed 
in  leading  forth  a  new  colony,  and  in  process  of  time  establishing  a 
new  nation.    The  Mahaws,  Missouries,  and  Otos,  remained  on  the 
banks  of  the  Missouri  river,  such  a  distance  up,  asto  be  in  the  reach 
(if  thut  powerful  enemy,  the  Sioux,  who  with  the  aid  of  the  smt^)! 
pox,  which  the  former  nations  unfortunately  contracted  by  their  con- 
nection with  the  whites,  bav«  reduced  the  Mahaws ,  formerly  a  brave 
and  powerful  nation)  to  a  mere  cypher,  and  obliged  the  Otos  and 
Missouries  to  join  their  forces,  who  now  form  but  one  nation.    The 
Kanses  and  -Osage,  came  farther  to  the  .east,  and  thereby  avoided 
the  Sioux,  but  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  lowas.  Sacs,  Kickapoiis, 
Potowatomies,    Delawares,  Shawanese,  Cherokees,    Chickasa\vi;, 


:;iH 


lly  celcbrate4B(.^^^^^^g^  ^^^^^ 


These 
Lroe  equally  ceicDT*v"™(.|,gj.jj^^g^  Arkansaws,  Caddoes,  and  Tetaus ;  and  what  astonished 
niy  route,  m  ^^""■^■'ne  extremely,  is  that  they  have  not  been  entirely  destroyed  by  those 
find  had  thrown  up    Bnations.    But  it  must  only  be  attributed  to  their  ignorance  of  the 
I's  rolling  wave,  an  '"■tnemies'  force,  their  want  of  conci  rt,  wars  between  themselves,  and 

file  great  renown  the  invaders  alwiys  acqiure  by  the  boldness  of  the 
pnterprisc,  on  tiie  minds  of  the  invaled. 

Their  government  is  oligarchical,  but  still  partakes  of  the  na- 

ure  of  a  republic,  for  although  the  power  nominally  is  vested  in,a 

itall  number  of  chiefs,  yet  they  never  undertake  any  matter  of  im- 

ortance,  without  tirst  assembling  the  warriors,  and  proposing  the 


rise  one  great  adv^t^ 
,n  of  our  populauo 
ltionoftheumotj.j) 
tending  t^emselve^j 
■  ed  to  Umit  m 


jnstrain 


Usouri  and  at^""^    i!B'''ject  in  council,  there  to  be  discussed  and  decided  on  by  a  ma- 


try. 


The  Osage 


ir 


!'l 


.,MI 


r 


to 


APPENDIX  TO  PAilT  IT. 


i  h'l: 


IM 


'TheircMeft  are  hereditary,  inmost  instances,  butjret  there 
are  many  men  who  haire  risen  to  more  influence  than  those  of  illus- 
trious ancestry,  by  their  activity  and  boldness  in  war. 

A'T^hongh  there  is  no  regular  code  of  laws,  yet  there  is  a  tacit 
acknowledgment  of  the  ri^ht,  which  some  have  to  command  on 
certain  occasions ;  whilst  others  are  bound  to  obey,  and  even  to  sub- 
mit  to  corporeal  punishment ;  as  is  instanced  in  the  affair  related 
in  my  diary  of  the  29th  July;  when  Has-ha-ke-da-tungar  (or  the 
Big  Soldier)  whom  I  had  made  a  partisan  to  regulate  the  move- 
ments of  the  Indians,  flogged  a  young  Ihdian  with  arms  in  his 
hands. 

On  the  ^hole,  their  government  may  be  termed  an  oligarchi- 
cal republic,  where  the  chiefs  propose,  and  the  people  decide  on  all 
public  acts. 

The  manners  of  the  Osage  are  different  from  those  of  any 
natienl  ever  saw  (except  those  before  mentioned  of  the  same  ori- 
gin) having  their  people  divided  into  classes.  All  the  bulk  of  the 
nation  being  warriors  and  hunters  (with  them,  the  terms  being  al- 
most svnonimous)  the  remainder  is  divided  into  two  classes,  cooks 
and  doctors,  the  latter  of  whom  likewise  exercise  the  functions  of 
priests  or  magicians,  and  have  great  influence  on  the  councils  of  the 
nation  by  their  pretended  divinations,  interpretations  of  dreams, 
athd  their  magical  performances;  an  illustration  of  i^hich  willbel 
better  given  by  the  following  anecdote,  which  took  place  during] 
my  stay  at  the  nation,  in  August  1806,  vis:  Having  had  all thef 
doctors  or  magicians  assembled  in  the  lodge  of  Ca-ha-ga-tongi,l 
(alias  Cheveux  Blancs)  and  about  500  x^alors.  They  had  twi)| 
rows  of  fires  prepared,  around  which  ti  ;red  band  was  stationed. 
They  commenced  the  tragic*comedy,  by  putting  a  krge  butchei 
knife'  down  their  throats ;  t!v>  hioad  appearing  to  run  during  th 
'  operation  very  naturally ;  the  i^cene  was  continued,  by  putting  sticli| 
through  the  nose,  swallowing  bones  and  taking  them  out  of  thei 
trils,  &c.  At  length  one  fellow  demanded  of  me  what  I  would giij 
'if  be  would  run  a  stuk  through  his  tongue,  and  let  another  per 
cut  off  the  piece.  1  replied,  "  a  shirt."  He  then  apparently 
formed  his  promise,  with  great  pain,  forcing  a  stick  through  I 
tongue,  and  then  giving  a  knife  to  a  bye-stander,  who  appeared  | 
cut  off  the  piece,  which  he  held  to  the  light,  for  the  satisfactioDJ 
the  audience :  and  then  joined  it  to  his  tongue  ;  and  by  a  magij 
charm  healed  the  wound  immediately.  On  demanding  of  me  \ 
I  thought  of  the  performance :  I  replied  I  would  give  him  30$liii| 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  IL 


It 


,  but  yet  there 
aihosoof  Ulus- 

Ltherewatacit 

;o  command  on 
and  even  to  aub- 
ihe  affwr  related 
aa-tungar  (or  the 
gulate  the  move- 
with  9xvcii  in  his 

rmed  an  oUgarchi- 
^eople  decide  onall 

from  those  o£  any 
ed  of  the  same  on- 
AUthebulliof^^'^ 
the  terms  being  al- 
to two  classes,  coob 
PcisethefuncuonsoJ 
on  the  councils  oC  the 
Stations  of  drem 
don  of  >Vhich  m\\\^ 

.M  took  pi-^^*^:;;2' 

,  Having  had  all  to 
Igc  of  Ca-ha-ga-tonp. 
.^ators.  Theyhadt.^ 
red  band  was  stationed 
jutting  a  urge  butc. 

ring  to  run  during  I 
Uued,  by  putting  »ud 
„g  them  out  of  the  « 
'.fmewhatlwcnldgit 
and  let  another  per- 
ie  then  apparently 
ting  a  stick  through 
,nder,  >^ho  appeared 
Jl'forthesatisfacH 
.ngue-.andbyamagj 
n  demanding  of  tne^ 
LouUlgivebim208ta 


if  he  would  let  me  cut  off  the  piece  from  his  tbngue ;  this  discon^ 
certed  him  a  great  deal,  and  I  was  sorry  I  made  the  observation. 

The  cooks  are  either  for  the  general  use«  or  attached  particu« 
larly  to  the  &mily  of  some  great  man,  and  what  is  the  more  singu- 
lar, that  frequently  men  who  have  been  great  warriors,  and  brave 
men  having  lost  all  their  families  by  disease,  in  the  war,  and  thenk* 
selves  becoming  old  and  infirm,  they  firequently  take  up  the  profes- 
sion of  cook,  in  which  they  do  not  carry  arms,  and  are  supported  by 
the  public,  or  their  particular  patron.  i 

They  likewise  exercise  the  functions  of  tolvn  criers,  calling 
the  chiefs  to  council  and  to  feasts ;  or  if  any  particular  person  is 
wanted,  you  employ  a  crier,  who  goes  through  the  village  crying 
his  name,  and  informing  him  he  is  wanted  at  such  a  lodge.    When 
received  into  the  Osage  village,  you  immediately  present  yourself 
at  the  lodge  of  the  chief,  who  receives  you  as  his  guest,  where  you 
generally  eat  first  after  the  old  patriarchal  style.    You  are  then  in- 
vited to  a  feast  by  all  the  great  men  of  the  villilge ;  and  it  would  be 
a  great  insult  if  you  did  not  comply,  at  least,  as  far  as  to  taste  of 
their  victuals.    In  one  instance,  I  was  obliged  to  taste  of  fifteen  dif- 
ferent entertainments,  the  same  afternoon.    When  you  will  hear 
the  cooks  crying,  "  come  and  eat,"  such  an  one  gives  a  feast,  "  come 
and  eat  of  hif  bounty."    Their  dishes  vreve  generally  boiled  sweet 
corn  in  buff;Uo  grease;  or  boUed  meat  and  pumpkins;  but  San 
Oriel  (alias  Tetobasi)  treated  me  with  a  dish  of  tea  in  a  wooden 
dish,  new  horn  spoons,  boiled  meat  and  crullers :  he  had  been  in 
the  United  States.    Their  towns  hold  more  people  in  the  same 
space  of  ground,  than  any  places  I  ever  saw.     Their  lodges  being 
posted  with  scarcely  any  regularity ;  each  one  building  in  the  man- 
ner, directions,  and  dimensions  which  suits  him  best,  by  which 
means  they  frequently  leave  only  room  for  a  single  man  to  squeeze 
between  them  ;  added  to  this,  they  have  pens  for  their  horses,  ell . 
within  the  village,  into  which  they  always  drive  them  at  night,  in 
case,  they  think,  there  is  any  reason  to  believe  there  is  an  enemy 
lurking  in  the  vicinity. 

The  O^age  lodges  are  generally  constructed  with  upright  posts, 
put  firmly  in  the  ground,  of  about  20  feet  in  height,  with  a  trotch  at 
the  top ;  they  are  generally  about  12  feet  distant  from  each  other ;  in 
the  crotch  of  those  posts,  are  put  the  ridge  poles,  over  which  are  bent 
small  poles,  the  end  of  which  are  brought  down  and  fastened  to  a 
row  of  stakes  of  about  5  feet  in  height ;  these  stakes  are  fastened 
jtogether  with  three  horizontal  bars,  and  from  tlie  flank  walls  of  the 
lodge.    The  gable  ends  are  generally  broad  slabs  and  rounded  off 


*i     * 


1     ' 


S  f 


*M 


n 


U 


AfrPENDIX  TO  PART  II; 


to  the  ridge  pole.  The  whole  of  the  building  and  sides  are  covered 
with  matting  made  of  rushes,  of  two  or  three  feet  in  length,  and 
four  feet  in  width,  which  are  joined  together,  and  entirely  exclude 
the  rain.  The  doors  are  in  the  bide  t>f  the  building,  and  generally 
are  one  on  each  side.  The  fires  are  made  in  holes  in  the  centre  of 
ihe  lodge  ;  the  smoke  ascending  through  apertures  left  in  the  roof 
for  the  purpose ;  at  one  end  of  the  dwelling  is  a  raised  platform, 
f  bout  three  feet  from  the  ground,  which  is  covered  with  bear  skins, 
and  generally  holds  all  the  little  choice  furniture  of  the  master,  and 
on  which  repose  his  honorable  guests. 

In  feet  with  neatness  and  a  pleasing  companion,  they  would 
compose  a  very  comfortable  and  pleasant  summer  habitation,  but 
are  left  in  the  winter  for  the  woods  ;  they  vary  in  length  from  36 
to  100  feet. 

The  Osage  nadon  is  divided  into  three  villages,  and  in  a  few 
years  you  may  say  nations,  viz^  the  Grand  Osage*  the  Little  Osage, 
and  those  of  the  Arkansaw.  i 

Tiie  Little  Oaage  separated  from  the  Big  Osage,  about  100 
^ears  since.;  and  their  chiefs  on  obtaining  permisition  to  ledd  forth 
a  colony  from  tl>e  great  council  of  the  nation,  moved  on  to  the  Mis. 
souri,  but  after  some  years  finding  themselves  too  hard  pressed  by 
their  enemies,  they  again  obtained  permission  to  return,  and  put 
themselves  under  the  protection  of  the  grand  village,  and  settled 
down  a1}out  6  miles  off.    (See  chart.) 

The  Arkanaaw  schism  was  effected  by  Mr.  Pierre  Choteau, 
10  or  12  years  ago,  as  a  revenge  on  Mr.  Manuel  Ue  Sezei,  who  had  i 
obtained  from  the  Spanish  government  the  exclusive  trade  of  the 
Osage  nation,  by  the  way  of  the  Osage  river,  after  its  having  been 
in  the  hands  of  Mr.  Choteau  for  nearly  20  years.     The  latter  having  I 
the  trade  of  the  Arkansaw,  thereby  nearly  rendered  abortive  thej 
exclusive  privilege  of  his  rival.    He  has  been  vainly  promising  to] 
the  government,  that  he  would  bring  them  back  to  join  the  graodi 
village.     But  bis  reception  at  the  Arkansaw  village,  in  the  autumDl 
of  1806,  must  have  nearly  cured  him  of  that  idea.     And  in  fact,! 
every  reason  induces  a  belief,  that  the  other  villages  are  much  morel 
likely  to  join  the  Arkansaw,  (which  is  daily  becoming  more  power-T 
ful)  than  the  latter  to  return  to  its  ancient  residence.    For  the  Granilf 
and  Little  Osage  are  both  obliged  to  proceed  to  the  Arkansaw  ever] 
winter,  to  kill  the  summer's  provision  ;  also  all  the   nations  witl{ 
whom  they  are  now  at  war,  are   situated  to  the  westward  of 
river,  and  from  whence  they  get  all  their  horses.    Those  inducel 
mcnts  are  such,  that  the  young,  the  bold)  and  the  enterprising  in 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  II. 


13 


daily  emigrating  from  the  Osage  viilage»  to  the  Arkanaaw  village. 
In  fact)  it  would  become  the  interest  of  our  government  to  encour> 
age  that  emigration ;  if  they  intend  to  encourage  the  extenuon  (ff  the 
ttttlement  (f  Upper  Lotdiiana  ;  but  tf  on  the  contrary  (their  true 
poUcy)  every  method  tho^d  be  taken  to  prevent  their  elongation  from 
the  Miaaouri. 

They  are  considered  by  the  nations  to  the  south  and  wrest  of 
them)  as  a  brave  and  warlike  nation ;  but  are  by  no  means  a  match 
for  the  northern  nationS)  who  make  use  of  the  rifle)  who  can  com- 
bat them  two  for  one)  whilst  they  again  may  fight  those  armed  with 
bowS)  arrowS)  and  lances  at  the  same  disproportion. 

The  humane  policy  which  the  United  States  have  held  forth  to 
the  Indian  nationS)  of  accommodating  their  differences,  and  acting  as 
mediators  between  them,  has  succeeded  to  a  miracle  with  the  Osage 
of  the  Grand  village)  and  the  Little  Osage.    In  short)  they  have  be> 
come  a  nation  of  Quakers,  as  it  respects  the  nations  to  the  north 
and  east  of  them ;  at  the  same  time  that  they  continue  to  make  war 
«n  the  naked  and  defenceless  savages  of  the  west.    An  instance  of 
their  forbearance  was  exhibited  by  an  attack  made  on  a  hunting  par- 
ty of  the  Little  OsagC)  in  the  autumn  of  1 808,  on  the  grand  river 
of  the  Osage,  by  a  party  of  PotowatomieS)  who  crossed  the  river 
Missouri  by  the  SalinC)  and  found  the  women  and  children  alone 
and  defenceless.    The  men)  SO  or  60,  having  found  plenty  of  deer 
(he  day  before)  had  encamped  out  all  night.    The  enemy  struck 
the  camp  about  10  o'clock  in  the  morning,  killed  all  the  women  and 
boys  who  made  resistance,  also  some  infants ;  the  whole  number 

J,  »^ _  amounting  to  34,  and  led  into  captivity  near  sixty,  forty-six  of  whom 

xcUisive  trade  ot  ■^jre  afterwards  recovered  by  the  United  States,  and  sent  under  my 
after  Us  having  be®  ■pj^iggtion  to  the  village.  When  the  men  returned  to  the  camp, 
5.    The  latter  havig«jj^^y  found  their  families  all  destroyed)  or  taken  prisoners.    My  nar- ' 


Bs  are  covered 
in  length)  and 
ntirely  exclude 
,  and  generally 
in  the  centre  of 
^  left  in  the  roof 
raised  platform, 
I  with  bear  skins, 
;,lhe  master,  and 

mioo)  they  i»ould 
sr  habitation,  but 
,n  length  from  36 

,ges,  ai»d  in  a  few 
s^ihe  Little  Osage, 

.  Osage,  ab«iat  100 
Vision  to  leid  forth 
,ovedontotheM«- 
^  too  hard  pressed  b, 

n  to  return,  and  put 
I  village,  and  setUed 

j^r.  Pierre  Chotej«' 
^lUeSezeL^^Viohad 


endered  abortive 

„  vainly  pron^^'^^"^^' 
Ul^to  join  the  gran 

Ulage,i«theaatum 

'at  idea,     ^^^'l^''^^, 
mages  are  much  n.o« 

coming  more  powe 
dence.    VortheG^- 
the  Arkansaw  evei 


rator  had  his  wife  and  four  children  killed  on  the  spot !  !  and  yet  in 
[obedience  to  the  injunctions  of  their  great  father,  they  fotebore  to 
tenge  the  blow  ! ! 

As  an  instance  of  the  great  influence  the  French  formerly  had 
iver  this  nation  ;  the  following  anecdote  may  be  interesting :  Chto- 
la  (alias  Wet  Stone)  aL  ittle  Osage)  "  said  he  was  at  Braddock's  de- 
feat) with  all  the  warriors  who  could  be  spared  from  both  villages : 
that  they  were  engaged  by  Mr.  M'Cartie,  who  commanded  at  fort 

^  Chartres,  and  who  supplied  them  with  powder  and  ball ;  that  the 

all  the  nations    "■general  place  of  rendezvous  was  near  a  lake  and  large  fall  (sup 

^e  westward  o     "Ipose  Niagara)  the  Kans  did  not  arrive  until  after  the  battle  ;  bu 
Those  inducf" 


to 

ISO 

the 
■horses 


d  the  enterprising 


but 
Ithat  the  Otos  were  present.    They  were  absent  from  their  villages 


m\%  i 


,:;11 


i: 


u 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  II. 


**  uven  moatht ;  and  were  obliged  to  eat  their  hones  on  their  re- 
« turn." 

AoBicuLTVRE— The  Osfge  raise  large  quantities  of  corn, 
beans  and  pumpkins,  which  thejr  manage  with  the  greatest  ecuno> 
injr,  in  order  to  make  it  last  from  jrear  to  year.  Ail  the  AgricuUu* 
ral  labor  is  done  by  women. 

FACToaiss— If  the  government  think  it  expedient  to  establish 
fectories  for  the  grand  and  little  villages,  equi-distant  from  both, 
which  would  answer  for  the  grand  and  little  villages.  The  other 
establishment  should  be  on  the  Arkansaw,  near  the  entrance  of  the 
Verdigrise  river*  (as  stated  by  Lt.  Wilkinson)  for  the  Aikansaw 
Osage. 

The  Pawnees  are  a  numerous  nation  of  Indians,  who  reside  on 
the  rivers  Platte  and  Kans ;  they  are  divided  into  three  distinct  na> 
dons,  two  of  them  being  now  at  war ;  but  their  manners,  language, 
customs*  and  improvements,  are  in  the  same  degree  of  advance* 
ment. 

On  the  La  Platte,  reside  the  grand  Pawnee  village,  and  the  Paw> 
nee  loups  on  one  of  its  branches,  witlk  whom  the  Pawnee  Republic 
cans  are  at  war. 

Their  language  is  guttural,  and  approaches  nearer  to  the  Ian* 
guage  of  the  Sioux,  than  the  Osage,  and  their  figure  tall,  slim, 
and  high  cheek  bones,  clearly  indicate  their  Asiatic  origin ;  but 
their  emigration  south,  and  the  ease  with  which  they  live  on  the  I 
buffalo  plains,  have  probably  been  the  cause  of  a  degeneracy  of 
manners,  for  they  are  neither  so  brave  nor  honest,  as  their  more  [ 
northern  neighbors.    Their  government  is  the  same  as  the  Osage, 
an  hereditary  aristocracy ;  the  father  handing  his  dignity  of  chiefJ 
.tain  down  to  his  son  ;  but  their  power  is  extremely  limited,  notwithj 
standing  the  long  life  they  have  to  establish  their  authority  and  in* 
fluence.    They  merely  recommend,  and  give  counsel  in  the  greatj 
assemblage  of  the  nation. 

They  are  not  so  cleanly,  neither  do  they  carry  their  internal  pol 
licy  so  far  as  the  Osage  ;  but  out  of  the  bounds  of  the  village,  itf 
appeared  to  me,  that  they  exceeded  them ;  as  I  have  frequently  seeij 
two  young  soldiers  come  out  to  my  camp,  and  instantly  disperse  i 
hundred  persons,  (by  the  strokes  of  long  whips)  who  were  assenj 
bled  there  to  trade  with  my  men. 

In  point  of  cultivation,  they  are  about  equal  to  the  Osage, 
ing  a  sufficiency  of  corn  and  pumpkins,  to  afford  a  little  thickenii 
to  their  soup  during  the  year.- 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  II. 


t%  on  th«lr  vt- 

kUtie*  of  co™» 
greateit  econo- 
I  the  AgricuUu- 

licnttoestabUsh 
itant  from  both, 
gc9.    The  other 
e  entrance  of  the 
or  the  Ai  tanaaw 

m»,  vrho  reside  on 

three  distinct  na- 

manners,  language, 


legree 


of  advance- 


iUage,andthePaw; 
e  Pawnee  RepubU- 

■s  nearer  to  the  Ian- 
,eir  figure  tall,  aUm, 
.  Asiaucorisinjbttti 
Uich  they  Uve  on  the 
of  a  degeneracy  on 
^onest,  as  their  mo« 
same  as  the  Osage, 

his  dignity  of  cbKt 
,ely  limited,  notwth. 

,eir  authority  and  in-l 
counsel  in  the  gre« 

Larry  their  intemalH 
aunds  of  the  village.  •« 

-1  have  frequently »«« 
L  instantly  disperse 
[hips)  v»ho  were  assem] 

Lai  to  the  Osage, 
Ifford  a  little  thickens 


Their  pumpkin  thdjr  cut  into  thin  ftlices»  tnd  drjr  it  in  dit  tuni 
which  redvcei  it  to  a  small  abtei  uul  net  more  than  a  tenth  of  itt 
original  weight. 

With  respect  to  ndlsing  hotseay  the  Pawnee*  are  Jar.  superior 
to  the  Osage,  having  Tast  quantities  of  excellent  Iwraes  which  they 
are  daily  increasingf  by  their  attention  to  their  breeding  mares» 
which  they  never  make  use  of;  and  in  additioD)  flvquently  purohaae 
from  the  Spai^ards. 

Their  houses  are  a  perfect  circle,  (except  where  the  door  en* 
ters)  from  whence  there  is  a  projection  of  about  15  feet ;  the  whole 
being  constructed  after  the  following  manner,  via  t  Ut.  there  ia  an 
excavation  of  a  circular  form,  made  in  the  ground,  of  about  4  feet 
deep  and  60  diameter,  where  there  is  a  row  of  posts  about  5  feet 
high,  with  crotches  at  the  top,  set  firmly  in  all  round,  and  horizon- 
tal poles  from  one  to  the  other.    There  is  then  a  row  of  posts,  form- 
ing a  circle  of  about  10  feet  width  in  the  diameter  of  the  others,  and 
10  feet  in  height.;  the  crotches  of  those  are  so  directed,  that  hori- 
xontal  poles  are  also  laid  from  one  to  the  other;  long  poles  are  then 
laid  slanting,  perpendiculariy  from  the  lower  poles  over  the  upper, 
and  meeting  neariy  at  the  top,  leaving  only  a  small  aperture  for  the 
smoke  of  the  fire  to  pass  out,  which  is  made  on  the  ground  in  the 
middle  of  the  lodge.    There  is  then  a  number  of  small  poles  put 
up  round  the  circle,  so  as  to  form  the  wall,  and  wicker  work  ran 
through  the  whole.    The  roof  is  then  thatched  with  grass,  and  earth 
thtiown  up  against  the  wall  untU  a  bank  is  made  to  the  eves  ?f  the 
thatch ;  and  that  is  also  covered  with  earth  one  or  two  feet  thick* 
and  rendered  so  tight,  as  entirely  to  exclude  any  storm  whatsoever^ 
and  make  them  extremely  warm.    The  entrance  is  about  6  feet 
\yide,  with  walls  on  each  side,  and  roofed  like  our  houses  in  shape, 
but  of  the  same  materials  as  the  main  building.    Inside  there  are 
nuonerous  Utde  apartments  constructed  of  wicker  work  against  the 
wall  with  small  doors ;  they  have  a  great  appearance  of  neatness 
and  in  them  the  members  of  the  family  sleep  and  have  their  little 
[deposits.    Their  towns  are  by  no  means  so  much  crowded  as  the 
jOsage,  giving  much  more  space,  but  they  have  the  same  mode  of 
introducing  all  their  horses  irio  the  village  at  night,  which  makes  it 
xtremely  crowded.    They  keep  guards  with  the  horses  during 
[he  day.    They  are  extremely  addicted  to  gaming,  and  have  for 
at  purpose  a  smooth  piece  of  ground  cleared  out  on  each  side  of 
le  village  for  about  ISO  yards  in  length,  at  which  they  play  tiie  fol< 
>wing  games,  viz :  one  is  played  by  two  players  at  a  time,  and  in 
le  following  manner :    They  have  a  large  hoop  of  about  four  feet 

U 


m 


16 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  II. 


IS 


•1 

■    i 

'■'■I 


I- 


ditmeter,  in  the  e«ntre  of  which  is  a  tmall  leather  ring  attached  to 
leather  thongst  which  is  extended  to  the  hoopf  and  by  that  means 
keeps  it  in  its  central  position  ;  they  also  have  a  polo  of  about  6  feet 
in  length,  which  the  player  holds  in  one  hand,  and  then  rolls  the 
hoop  from  him,  and  immediately  slides  the  pole  after  it,  and  the 
nearer  the  head  of  the  pole  lies  to  the  small  ring  within  the  hoop, 
(when  they  both  fall)  the  greater  is  the  cast.  But  I  could  not  ancer" 
tain  their  mode  of  counting,  sufficiently  to  decide  when  the  game 
wasvtFon.   > 

Another  game  is  played  with  a  small  stick,  with  several  hooks, 
and  a  hoop  about  four  inches  diameter,  which  is  rolled  along  the 
ground,  and  the  forked  stick  darted  after  it,  when  the  value  of  the 
cast  is  estimated  by  the  hook  on  which  the  ring  is  caught.  This 
game  is  gained  at  100.  The  third  game  alluded  to,  is  that  of  La 
Platte,  described  by  various  travellers,  and  is  played  at  by  the  wo- 
men, children,  and  old  men,  who  like  grasshoppers,  crawl  out  to  the 
circus  to  bask  in  the  sun,  probably  covered  only  with  an  old  buffalo 
robe.  1 

The  Pawnees,  like  the  Osage,  quit  their  villages  in  the  winter, 
roakinR  concealments  underground  of  their  com,  in  which  it  keeps 
perfectly  sound  tmtil  spring.  The  only  nations  with  whom  the 
Pawnees  are  now  at  vrar,  are  the  Tetaus,  Utahs,  and  Kyawayt, 
The  two  latter  of  whom  reside  in  the  mountains  of  North  Mexico, 
and  shall  be  treated  of,  when  I  speak  of  the  Spanish  Indians.  The 
former  generally  inhabit  the  borders  of  the  Upper  Red  river,  Ar. 
kaniaw,  and  Rio  del  Norte. 

The  war  has  been  carried  on  by  those  nations  for  yean,  with- 
out any  decisive  action  being  fought,  although  they  frequently  march 
with  2  or  300  men. 

.  The  Pawnees  have  mUch  the  advantage  of  their  enemies  in 
point  of  arms,  having  at  least  one  half  fire  arms,  whilst  their  oppo- 
nents  have  only  bows,  arrows,  lances,  shields  and  slings. 

The  Pawnees  always  march  to  war  on  foot,  their  enemies  are  I 
all  cavalry.  This  nation  may  be  considered  as  the  one  equi-distant| 
between  the  Spanish  population,  and  that  of  our  settlements  of  Lou- 
biana,  but  are  at  present  decidedly  under  Spanish  influence,  audi 
should  a  war  commence  to-morrow,  would  all  be  in  their  interest.! 
This  circumstance  does  not  arise  from  their  local  situation,  because] 
they  are  all  situated  on  navigable  waters  of  the  Missouri ;  nor  froml 
their  interest,  because  from  the  Spaniards  they  obtain  nothing  exf 
cept  horses  and  a  few  coarse  blankets  of  W.  Mexico ;  whilst  from 
us  they  receive  all  their  supplies  of  arms,  ammunition,  and  clothingl 


W™! 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  II. 


IT 


alttcbedto 

^  th»tw«M>» 
[  about  t  feet 
then  roWs  ihe 

.y  U»  •nd  the 

ouWnotwcer- 
rhen  the  game 

ft  several  hooks, 
oUed  along  the 
the  value  of  the 
»  caught.    Thh 

to,  i»  that  of  U 
^edatbythe>»o- 
,,crav»louttothe 
,ith  an  old  buffalo 

jKea  in  the  Winter, 
.invrhkhUkeep. 
,„av»ith  whemtHc 

ahs,  and  l^y^^T 
of  North  Mexico, 

,n»h  Indians.    The 

Ippcr  Red  river,  Ar- 

lona  for  years,  vtitb" 
,ey  frequenUy  ma'^»» 

lof  their  cnemie*  in 
,s,vrhilst  their  oppo- 

Ind  slings, 
at,  their  enewies  ate 
s'theoneequi^i^*^"^ 
r8cttlementsofLo«- 
panish  inauence,  «« 
Jibe  in  their  interest.! 

ocal  situation,  bec^ 


^e  Missouri ; 


nor  from 


but  all  those  •rticles  in  very  small  qumtitiet,  not  more  than  h«lf 
having  a  blanliet,  and  many  without  breech  clothe  to  cover  their  na- 
kedness. 

But  the  grand  principle  by  irhich  the  Spaniards  keep  them  in 
their  influence,  is  fear }  frequently  chaatiring  their  small  parties  on 
their  frontiers.  Their  sending  out  the  detachment  of  600  horse- 
men in  1806.  has  made  such  an  impression,  that  they  may  safely 
calculate  on  them  in  case  of  war. 

This  detachment  took  with  them  some  of  the  Pawnees  to  Chi« 
huahiua,  at  the  same  time  I  entered  the  Spanish  provinces. 

But,  by  withholding  their  supplies  of  arms,  ammunition,  and 
clothing  one  or  two  years,  bringing  on  their  backs  the  Osage  and 
Kant,  they  would  be  in  great  distress,  and  feel  the  necessity  of  a  good 
understanding  with  the  Ignited  States. 

If  there  should  ever  be  factories  established  for  their  accomo- 
dation,  they  should  be  at  the  entrance  of  the  La  Platte  and  Kani 
rivera,  as  those  waters  are  of  so  uncertain  navigation,  (only  in 
freshes)  that  it  would  be  folly  to  attempt  any  permanent  establish* 
ments  high  up  them ;  and  to  make  those  establiihments  useful  to 
ihe  Pawnees,  we  must  presuppose  our  influence  suflicient  to  gua- 
rantee to  them  peace  and  a  safe  passage  through  the  nations  of  tho 
Kans,  Otos,  and  Missouries ;  the  former  on  the  Kans  river;  the 
two  latter  on  the  river  Platte.  My  journey  will  give  various  other 
striking  traits  of  the  national  character  of  the  Pawnees,  and  my  dis- 
sertation on  the  subject  of  the  Spanish  claims,  will  further  elucidate 
the  political  and  relative  situation  of  that  nation. 

The  Kans  are  a  small  nation,  situated  on  the  river  of  that  name 
(see  the  chart)  and  are  in  language,  manners,  customs,  and  agricul- 
tural pursuits,  precisely  similar  to  tlte  Osage  :  with  whom  I  believe 
them,  as  before  observed,  to  have  had  one  common  origin. 

It  may  be  said,  however,  that  their  language  differs  in  some 
gree,  but  not  more  than  the  dialect  ot  our  eastern  states^  differs 
from  that  pf  the  southern. 

But  in  war,  they  are  yet  more  brave  than  their  Osage  brethren, 
ing  (although  not  more  than  one  third  their  number;  their  most 
^aded  enemies,  and  frequently  making  the  Pawnees  tremble. 

The  Tetaus^or  Camanche,  as  the  Spaniards  term  them,  Padouf 
isby  the  Pawnees,  are  a  powerful  nation,  which  are  entirely  erratic, 
thout  the  least  species  of  cultivation,  and  subsisting  solely  by  the 
asc.    But  their  wanderings  are  confined  to  the  frontiers  of  New 


bey  obtain  nothing  ^^j^j^.^  ^^  ^^^  ^^^^ .  ^^^  nations  on  the  Lower  Red  river  on  the  S. 


B  ' 

tsi 

'■•'  i 

|;i ' 

m 

n 

M.    1 

■''if 

I;:- 

m 


Mexico ; 
imunition, 


whilst  froi 
and  cloUVm?! 


:  Pawnees  and  Qsage  on  the  £.  an4  the  Utahs,  Kyaways,  and  vari< 


API'EKWX.  TO  PART  »• 
_!.  -1—  u  claimed ^xo*tt*»^'y  "^  '"^  ^TT     .k«  few  who  kMlf 

'^    They  ««*•«»''"""  "..„1^p.„d.ntpoo»to.    Th., 
„^  .Met.  *"V""t:^i;.,  ind.»lVh.y  h.«g»«"  «•»« 

..w.r.  b«.  a-.,  «««*  ^^  ^U„  ,Ub  t.»  S,«»r^ 
invasion  of  that  provinot,  wnwi  w 

From  th.  vUtag*  *«"»*^""'  Jh,,  „.w  h.«  ■">  """"" 
„„d.n«™«ng  will.  tl«  »»*"»^^  jr„  u««.«,.    H.  lHir«>»-ly 

»  .nd  .ppointed  «  ii<»> «»'  ""/"T^.L„„  with  500  m«i>,  »«"' 
,i;«h.rth..in>«n..t»c.  """"^^Jl  ^^  respect  .hiehft. 

,gr.e*ly  to  .1.0  be.t  '»'»'"''"°^°°„„i  „t  ,h.  naUoo.  With  wb.ch 
^L  ".--VU:.  d^tXV  ::d..t.naoo.n  .diff.™ 

^bi«e..P<'6""'»';7'p,„,  cpt.  l.tU.S.R.g..I«fty' 


Am«f  beMU 

5p«iii«h  settle, 
people.    They 
^ve  gW*n  tV»em 
enure*  the  pro. 
.ted  Vitt«ge»  and 

the  Teteue  i»  « 
UbU»«SpMftard. 

,Wy,^meaoffat 

,,ve  an  ewellent 

,cun«lo  MeW^«; 
^.    Heperwneily 

foUovring  «»*""*''• 
Br»s  epproximauon, 

vehitnottanexwn- 
,i,l,500nie«,a«on 

,o  ptindpal  oftce«, 

tbeV"**^:'?^' 

Mtto  the  iu'^^''*'^M 
eTdowntotheUieU 

,d  respect  v^hichth. 

Margate  had  poUc, 

,,pediuon  pnncip»»l? 

,tmcetViiha«y°l4 

«cribe  their  manncrJ 

I  shall  include  theoi 

their  nation* 
,c  nation,  ^ithi^lnch 

conceive  the  SpH 
attentioo  in  a  diffew^ 

icceeded  ^ith  their  n 

Lai  «tc«n^**"""*;i 
U,  customs,  P'»^»P^1 

Lu-SRegt-lnfty. 


vu;  A..4.H  G'>WOra>iJi  . . 


.UU.il.i 


.yijn  ,    i  i  .  I 


!t 


THE  following  Report  was  written  by  lieutenant 
Wilkinson,  at  a  time  when  it  was  expected  I  had  been  cut 
off  by  the  savages ;  it  consequently  aHuded  to  transactions 
relative  to  the  expedition  previous  to  our  separation,  which 
I  have  since  corrected :  but  the  adventures  of  his  party, 
afier  our  separation,  are  given  in  his  own  words. 

7.  M.  PIKE. 


^-'i- 


.1 

w 


CNo.2.  3 

LIEUTENANT  V7ILKINSON*S  REPORT 


:  +  . 


I  •- 


OF  HIS 


PASSAGE  DOWN  THE  ARKANSAW,  &c. 


'trr. 


■>*i''^-iM''ft^-i'^ii 


"  r'^\v:\  m^'^' 


Mvf-Orieana,Jfirit  6,  1607. 
Sir,  '         '■''■'■_     i'-^y^i'      ^    '  <o;)^i..;i.:  uiii  i(u 

AGREEABLY  tp  your  order  dated  in  June,  1806, 1  took  my 
departure  from  Belle  Fontaine,  under  the  command  of  lieutenant 
Pike,  early  in  July.    The  Missouri  being  well  up,  we  found  the  na* 
vigation  as  favorable  as  could  have  been  expected.    On  the  28th  of 
the  same  month,  we  reached  the  mouth  of  the  Osage  river,  which 
we  found  a  pellucid,  tr<finquil  stream,  with  the  exception  of  a  few 
trifling  ripples,  and  a  fall  of  about  six  feet  in  two-thirds  of  a  mile, 
called  the  Old  Man's  Rapid.    The  river  abounds  with  various  kinds 
of  good  fish,  especially  the  soft-shelled  turtle,  which  we  took  in  i 
great  numbers.    The  banks  of  the  river  are  generally  formed  by 
craggy  cliffs,  and  not  unfrequently  you  perceive  stupendous  rocks  [ 
projecting  over  the  water,  out  of  which  issue  excellent  springs. 
The  most  remarkable  natural  curiosity  which  I  observed  is  a  pond  I 
of  water,  about  three  hundred  toises  in  circumference,  six  miles 
above  the  Yanga,  on  a  nsmg  piece  of  ground,  considerably  above  | 
ihe  level  of  the  river,  which  keeps  one  continued  hei^^nt,  is  per-l 
fectly  pure  and  transparent,  and  has  no  outlet  by  which  to  discharge] 
itself. 

On  the  12th  of  August  the  Osages  appeared  dissatisfied  with! 
the  tedious  movement  of  our  barges,  and  expressed  a  wish  to  crossi 
the  prairie  to  their  villages,  in  case  an  escort  was  allowed  them.  ll 
immediately  volunteered  my  services,  and  we  parted  with  the  boatif 


M 


ANSAW,  &c. 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  If 
at  the  mouth  of  Grand  river  th.  ** 

e"  were  take„  the  preceding  IttlXTh'e  P  T  '""''""'^  P"«>«- 
We  reached  the  village  of  Ti.r.      P°towatomie». 

■^-^c.  on  ,h.  righ,  J         ;  "'  '»  P«»  <l.rough.    A  few  yard   j^ 

''l.o»»nd  person,,  pan  of  Ir^Tf' ''""''Kl.  a  c«,d  of  neart^ 

I     After  !!.„,.„,„,  p.        f;™"'';  "'^  HMy  flavored.         ' 
pip  on  the  bank  of  ih.  .■  '"'  ""  'ws,  «,  f„.„   . 

^-^arch  for  the  Pawnee  repl  .    ^^f^P^^'^ber  .vc  comment 
I   ^^  e  coursed  the  t><in.,»  «• 

I  ''''"''''' ^^'""nd  to  he  sixty 


32 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  II; 


pi\ ... 


I  I 


or  eifschty  yards  \irit1e«  we  marohcd  a  whole  day  before  we  reached 
the  waters  of  the  Kanses,  and  vrere  aigreeably  sarpriaed  to  find  our- 
selves on  the  bank  of  a  bold  running  stream.  Between  this  and 
the  village  of  the  Pawnees,  we  crossed  tMro  strongly  impregnated 
salines,  which  passed  over  a  sandy  country,  almost  destitute  of 
herbage,  and  after  a  painful  march,  under  an  oppressive  wm,  over 
an  irregular  and  broken  surface  we  arrived  at  the  town  of  the 
Republican  Pawnees  on  the  2Sth  of  September.  We  (the  day  be> 
fore)  were  met  by  a  number  of  warriors,  whom  curiosity  had  led 
thus  far  to  see  us,  among  whom  was  the  third  consequential  charac' 
ter  of  the  republican  party,;  for  you  must  know  that  the  village  is 
composed  of  the  followers  of  a  dissatisfied  warrior,  who  first  made 
this  establishment,  and  the  adherents  of  a  regular  chief  of  the 
Grand  Pawnees,  who  migrated  thither  some  few  years  since  with 
his  family,  and  usurped  the  power  of  the  rcfuiblican  warrior  To 
such  a  pitch  does  this  party  spirit  prevail  that  you  easily  perceive 
the  hostility  which  exists  between  the  adherents  of  the  two  chiefs. 
Early  on  the  morning  of  the  25th  we  were  joined  by  a  few  more  I 
savages  of  distinction,  headed  by  the  brother  of  C/iaractemh,  or 
the  IV/iite  Wolf^  chief  of  the  nation,  who  was  to  act  as  master  of  the  J 
ceremonies  to  our  formal  entry.  Preparatory  to  our  march,  we  had  1 
our  men  equipped  as  neatly  as  circumstances  would  admit.  AbootI 
mid-day  we  reached  the  summit  of  a  lofty  chain  of  ridges,  where! 
we  were  requested  to  halt  and  wait  the  arrival  of  the  chief,  who  was! 
half  a  mile  from  us,  with  three  hundred  horsemen,  who  were  gene-f 
rally  naked  (except  bufTulo  robes  and  breech  cloths)  and  painted  witlij 
white,  yellow,  blue,  and  black  clay.  At  the  word  of  the  chief  tbq 
warriors  divided,  and  pushing  on  at  full  speed,  flanked  us  on  thj 
right  and  left,  yelling  in  a  most  diabolical  manner.  The  chief  i 
vanced  in  front,  accompanied  hy  Iskatafifie^  or  the  Rich  Man^Hn 
second  great  personage  of  the  village,  and  his  two  sons,  who  weij 
clothed  in  scarlet  cloth.  They  approached  slowly,  and  when  withij 
a  hundred  yards,  the  three  latter  halted,  and  Characterish  advano 
in  great  state,  and  when  within  a  few  paces  of  us,  stretched  out  I 
hand  and  cried  «'  Bon  jour."  Thus  ended  the  first  ceremony.  \fl 
moved  on  about  a  mile  farther,  and  having  gained  the  summit  ofl 
considerable  hill,  wc  discovered  the  village  directly  at  its  base.  \i 
here  were  again  halted,  and  the  few  Osages  who  accompaniedf 
were  ordered  in  front  and  seated  in  rank  entire.  The  chief  squj 
ted  on  his  hums  in  front  of  them  and  filled  a  calumet,  which  scvej 
different  Indians  took  from  him,  and  handed  the  Osages  to  smoj 
This  was  called  the  /lorse'smolce,  as  each  person  who  took  the 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  Tt. 


t8 


,f.0  vf  veached 
laedtoftBdour. 
BWeeo  thw  and 

nost  deetivule  o£ 

the  tow**  °^  ^^® 
W©  (the  day  be- 

curiosity  had  kd 

jaequentiftl  charac 
,  that  the  village  is 
cior,  who  first  ma*e 
.„ular  clttcf  of  the 
ew  years  since  v»ilh 
iblican  warrior    To 
t  you  easily  perceive 
its  of  the  two  chiefs, 
loinedby  afewtnore 
r  of  Charactemh,  or 
to  act  as  master  of  Ae 
,  to  our  march,  we  had 

,^ould  admit.    About 

htdn  of  ridges,  >vhere 

I  of  the  chief,  who  «as 

emen,who  were  gene. 

loths)andpamted^.j 

v,ord  of  the  chief  th. 

manner.     The  chief  j 

■!  or  the  Rich  Man^\i 

U  two  sons,  who  >»^ 

slowly,  and  when  w«b 

I  Characterish  advan« 
of  us,  stretched  out 
the  first  ceremony.  ^J 
gained  the  summits 
lirectlyatitsbase.J 

.es  who  accompanie 
ntire     The  chief  sqa 
:riumet,  which  so. 

L,ed  the  usages  toj' 
person  who  took  the 


fh)m  the  chief  intended  -^resenting  the  Osages  a  horse.  Mr.  Pike 
did  Dr.  Robinson  nf>;  da  accompanied  the  chief  to  his  lodge, 
and  I  moved  on  with  t  ;  detachment  and  formed  our  camp  on  the 
opposite  bank  of  the  republican  fork  of  the  Kanses  river,  on  a  com> 
manding  hill,  which  had  been  selected  as  the  most  favorable  utua> 
tion  for  making  observations,  though  very  inconvenient  on  account 
of  wood  and  water,  which  we  had  to  transport  nearly  a  quarter  of  a 
mile. 

At  a  council  held  some  few  days  after  our  arrival,  liieutenant 
Pike  explained  to  them  the  difference  of  their  present  situation,  and 
that  of  a  few  years  past ;  that  now  they  must  look  up  to  the  prcu- 
dent  of  the  United  States  as  (heir  great  father,  and  that  he  had  been 
sent  by  him  to  asure  them  of  his  good  wishes,  Sec.  &c. ;  that  he  per- 
ceived a  Spanish  flag  flying  at  the  council  lodge  door,  and  was  anxi- 
ous to  exchange  one  of  their  great  father's  for  it,  and  that  it  was  our 
intention  to  proceed  on  further  to  the  westward,  to  examine  this  our 
newly  acquired  country.  To  this  a  singular  and  extraordinary  re- 
sponse was  given«-~in  fact,  an  objection,  started  in  direct  opposition 
to  our  proceeding  further  to  the  west ;  however  they  gave  up  the 
Spanish  flag,  and  we  had  the  pleasure  tO  aele  the  American  standard 
hoisted  in  its  stead. 

At  the  same  council  Characterish  observed  that  a  large  body  of 
Spaniards  had  lately  been  at  his  viUage,  and  that  they  promised  to 
return  and  build  a  town  adjoining  his.  The  Spanish  chief,  he  said) 
mentioned  that  he  was  not  empowered  to  council  with  him ;  that  he 
came  merely  to  b|;pak  the  road  for  his  master,  who  would  visit  him 
in  the  spruig  with  a  large  army,  and  that  he  further  told  him  the 
Americans  were  a  little  people,  but  were  enterprising,  and  one  of 
those  days  would  stretch  themselves  even  to  his  town,  and  that  thej^ 
took  the  lands  of  Indians  and  would  drive  off  their  game ;  and  how 
very  true,  says  Characterish,  has  the  Spanish  chieTtain  spoken !  Wc 
demanded  to  purchase  a  few  horses,  which  was  prohibited  us,  and 
the  friendly  communication  which  had  existed  between  the  town 
and  our  camp  was  stopped.  The  conduct  of  our  neighbours  as- 
sumed a  mysterious  change  ;  our  guards  were  several  times  alarm- 
|c(],  and  finally  appearances  became  so  menacing  an  to  make  it  ne- 
ssary  for  us  to  be  on  our  guard  day  and  night. 

It  was  obvious  that  the  body  of  Spaniards  who  preceded  us 
lut  a  few  weeks  in  their  mission  to  this  village,  were  the  regular 
lavalry  and  infantry  of  the  province  of  Santa  Fee,  as  they  had  formed 
leir  camps  in  regular  order,  and  we  were  informed  they  kept  regu* 
guards,  and  that  the  beats  of  their  drum  were  uniform  morning 

•jr- 


;iv 


id: 


M 


t)^ 


\s>>^ 


9% 


APPENPIX  TO  PART  II. 


Ij:t 


y^.m 


I  -  t.ti:M{ 


and  evening.  The  Spanish  leaderi  further,  delivered  to  Character- 
iah  a  grand  medal,  two  mutes,  and  a  commission  bearing  the  signs- 
ture  of  the  governor,  civil  and  military,  of  Santa  Fee.  He  also  had 
simifar  marks  of  distinction  for  the  Grand  Pawnees,  the  Pawnee 
Mahaws,  Mahaws  Proper,  Otos  and  Kansas. 

On  the  6th  of  October  we  made  some  few  purchases  of  mi- 
serablc  horses  at  the  most  exorbitant  prices,  and  on  the  7th,  un- 
moved  by  the  threats  of  the  chief  relative  to  our  proceeding  far- 
ther to  the  west,  we  m&rched  in  a  close  and  compact  body  until  we 
passed  their  village,  and  took  the  large  Spanish  beaten  trace  for  the 
Arkansaw  river.  We  passed  the  following  day,  an  encampment  of 
the  Spaniards,  where  we  counted  sixty-nine  fires.  On  the  9th,  as 
usual,  made  an  easy  march,  and  about  noon,  when  we  halted  to  re- 
fresh ourselves,  were  overtaken  by  three  hundred  Pawnees,  on  their 
way  to  the  salines  of  the  Kanses  to  hunt  bulTalo.  Their  every  act 
shewed  a  strong  disposition  to  quarrel,  and  iri  fact  they  seemed  to 
court  hostility ;  but,  finding  us  without  fear  and  prepared,  to  a  man, 
they  offered  no  outrage,  and  having  grazed  our  horses  an  hour,  we 
parted  from  this  turbulent  band,  slung  our  packs  and  proceeded  on 
to  Solomon's  Fork  of  the  Kanses,  and  pitched  our  tents  on  an  old 
encampment  of  the  Spaniards,  whose  trace  we  were  following,  as 
we  found  the  next  morning  many  tent-pins  made  of  wood,  difTerent 
from  any  in  that  country.  At  midnlay  lieutenant  Pike,  Dr.  Robin- 
son, and  the  interpreter  Baroney,  pushed  on  to  search  for  water,  and 
I  remained  with  the  troops.  I  pushed  on  as  briskly  as  our  poor 
half-famished  horses  would  permit,  and  at  night  fall  could  discover 
nothing  of  Mr.  Pike,  and  had  not  a  tree  in  view.  This  induced  me  | 
to  quicken  my  pace,  and,  as  darkness  had  rendered  my  compass  use* 
less,  I  coursed  by  the  polar  star ;  but  the  horizon  becoming  overcast)! 
I  halted  oa  a  naked  stony  prairie,  without  water  or  grass  for  ourl 
horses.  On  the  following  morning  I  directed  my  course  more  tol 
the  southward,  and  about  ten  o'clock  came  to  the  creek  and  en<[ 
campment  of  lieutenant  Pike.  Late  in  the  evening  of  the  samel 
day,  after  passing  over  a  mountainous  tract  of  country,  we  reacbeii| 
the  Grand  Saline,  which  we  found  so  strongly  impregnated,  as  to[ 
render  unpalatable  com,  when  boiled  in  it.  On  the  1 2th  after  a  ( 
tressing  day's  march,  we  reached  the  Second,  or  Small  Saline,  and 
on  the  following  day  encamped  on  the  most  western  branch  of  thj 
Kanses  river. 

We  were  detained,  on  the  morning  of  the  1 3th,  by  a  small  raiij 
but  as  time  was  pressing,  we  marched  about  noon,  crossed  the  ( 
viding  ridge  of  the  Kanses  and  Arkansaw  rivers,  and  halted  on] 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  11. 


»f 


[  to  Character- 
ling  the  signa- 
,.  He  also  had 
58,  the  Pawnee 


t 


small  branch  of  the  latter.  For  several  days  past  we  had  been  ao 
bewildered  by  buffalo  paths,  that  we  lost  the  Spanish  tracO}  and  this 
being  an  object  of  momentt  we  resolved  to  make  search  for  it.  Ac* 
cordingly,  on  the  following  day  at  noon,  Mr.  Pike  and  Dr.  Robinson 
struck  off  from  the  party  a  due  west  course,  and  I  marched  the  de- 
tachment for  a  copse  of  wood,  which  we  could  barely  discern  in  the 
south-west,  and  reached  it  about  midnight.  At  day-break  I  was 
awoke  by  my  old  and  faithful  Osage,  who  informed  me  that  we  were 
on  the  banks  of  the  Arkansaw  river.  I  immediatly  arosC)  and  dis- 
covered my  tent  to  have  been  pitched  on  the  margin  of  a  water- 
course,  nearly  four  hundred  yards  wide,  with  banks  not  three  feet 
high,  and  a  stream  of  water  running  through  it  about  twenty  feet  in 
width,  and  not  more  than  six  or  eight  inches  deep. 

I  remained  here  four  day^s  in  great  anxiety  and  suspence,  as 
neither  Mr.  Pike  nor  Dr.  Robinson  mode  their  appearance,  nor 
could  be  found,  although  I  had  all  my  hunters  out  in  search  of  them. 
But  I  was  agreeably  surprised  on  the  fifth  day,  early  in  the  morning, 
by  their  arrival.  It  appeared  our  apprehensions  were  mutual,  as 
they  expected  I  had  been  cut  off,  and  I  believed  they  had  been  mur- 
dered. 

On  the  17th  it  commenced  raining  and  continued  for  sevenU 
days,  during  which  time  the  river  rose  so  much  as  to  fill  its  bed, 
from  bank  to  bank ;  and  lieutenant  Pike  having  determined  that  I 
should  descend  the  Arkansaw,  we  cut  down  a  small  green  cotton- 
wood,  and  with  much  labor  split  out  a  canoe,  which  being  insufii- 
dent,  we  formed  a  second  of  buffalo  and  elk  skins. 

After  the  rain  had  ceased  the  weather  became  extremely  cold) 

and  on  the  27th,  in  the  evening,  a  severe  snow-storm  commenced, 

and  continued  nearly  all  night.    In  the  morning  the  river  was  almost 

choaked  with  drifting  ice  ;  but  the  sun  bursting  out  at  noon,  the  ice 

d  my  course  more    ■^gj^ppQai.ej^  an j  I  took  leave  of  Mr.  Pike,  who  marched  up  the 

the  creek  a""     |riveratthe  moment  I  embarked  on  board  my  newly  constructed 

oe ;  but,  unfortunately,  we  had  not  proceeded  more  than  one  hun- 

Ired  yards  when  my  boats  grounded, 'and  the  men  were  obliged  to 

Irag  them  through  sand  and  ice  five  miles,  to  a  copse  of  woods  on 

e  south-western  bank.    I  here  hauled  up  my  canoe,  formed  a  kind 

„. ^f  a  cabin  of  it,  and  wrapped  myself  up  in  my  buffalo  robe,  dis- 

western  branch  ol    ^eartcned  and  dissatisfied  with  the  commencement  of  my  voyage. 

he  night  was  severely  cold,  and  in  the  morning  the  river  was  so 
.e  1 3th,  by  a  small  '"'^n  of  ice  as  to  prevent  all  possibility  of  proceeding.    The  day  con- 

t  noon,  crossed  ^"^"miued  stormy,  witli  snow  from  the  north-west, 
rivers,  and  halted  onF 


urchasea  of  mi- 

onthe  7th,  un- 

proceeding  far- 
act  body  until  we 

jaten  trace  for  the 
in  encampment  rf 
On  the  9th,  as 
In  we  halted  tote- 

pawnees,  on  their 
Their  every  act 
fact  they  wemed  to 
prepared,  to  a  man, 

horses  an  hour,  we 
ks  and  proceeded  on 
I  our  tents  on  an  old 
e  were  following,  as 

e  of  wood,  different 

nt  Pike,  Dr.  Robin, 
arch  for  water,  and 

briskly  as  our  poot 
t  fall  could  discovei 
This  induced  me 
lered  my  compass  use. 
becoming  overcast, 


an 


Iter  or  grass 


for  out! 


to 


,  evening  of  the  sam 
f  country,  we  reached! 
w  impregnated,  as « 
■nthel2thafterad« 

Small  Saline,  aw 


or 


■M 
I 


■in 


■'I 

■i 


m 

m 
■■». 


^n.;  1 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  11. 


M'    S 


On  the  30th  the  river  was  frozen  up,  and  towards  evening  the 
water  had  ran  off*,  and  left  the  bed  of  the  river  covered  with  ice. 
This  circumstance  determined  me  to  leave  my  canoes  and  course 
the  river  by  land.  Accordingly,  on  the  3 1  st  of  October,  after  having 
thrown  away  all  my  clothing  and  provision,  except  half  a  dozen  tin 
cups  of  hard  com  for  each  man,  I  slung  my  rifle  on  my  shoulder, 
and  with  my  buffalo  robe  at  my  back  and  circumferentor  in  my  h^nd, 
I  recommenced  my  march  with  a  light  and  cheerful  heart.  My 
only  apv.^ehension  was  the  meeting  with  detached  bands  of  the  Paw- 
nees, who,  I  am  confident,  would  have  brought  me  and  my  five  men 
to  action,  and  the  consequence  was  very  obvious.' 

On  the  1st,  2d,  and  3d  of  November  I  marched  over  high  and 
barren  hills  of  sand,  and  at  the  close  of  each  day,  passed  strongly 
impregnated  salines,  and  perceived  the  shores  of  the  river  to  be  com- 
pletely  frosted  with  nitre.  The  face  of  the  country,  as  I  descended, 
looked  more  desolate  than  above,  the  eye  being  scarcely  able  to  dis- 
cern a  tree ;  and  if  one  was  discovered,  it  proved  to  be  a  solitary 
cotton-wood,  stinted  in  growth  by  the  sterility  of  the  soil.  The 
evening  of  the  9d  instant  I  encamped  on  the  bank  of  the  river, 
without  a  tree  or  even  a  shrub  in  view.  On  the  4th  we  experienced 
a  heavy  rain;  but  hunger  and  cold  pressed  me  forward.  After 
marching  ten  miles  I  reached  a  small  tree,  where  I  remained  in  a 
continued  rain  for  two  days,  at  the  expiration  of  which  time  having  | 
exhausted  my  fuel,  I  had  again  to  push  off  in  a  severe  storm,  and  I 
formed  my  camp  at  the  mouth  of  a  bold  running  stream,  whose  j 
northern  bank  was  skilled  by  a  chain  of  lofty  ridges. 

On  the  8th,  in  the  morning,  it  having  cleared  up,  I  began  nyj 
march  early,  and  it  appeared  as  if  we  had  just  gotten  into  the  regiool 
of  game)  for  the  herds  of  buffalo,  elk,  goat,  and  deer  surpassed  cre-f 
dibility.  I  do  solemnly  assert,  that,  if  I  saw  one,  I  saw  more  than) 
nine  thousand  buffalos  during  the  day^s  march. 

On  the  10th,  in  the  evening,  after  a  severe  day's  march,  I  en-j 
camped  on  the  bank  of  a  large  creek,  and  discovered,  for  the  first] 
time,  on  the  river,  a  species  of  wood  differing  from  the  cotton  tre 
1  assure  you  the  sight  was  more  agreeable  than  a  person  would  im» 
giiie  :  it  was  like  meetings  with  an  old  acquaintance,  from  whom  yoi 
had  been  separated  a  length  of  time  ;  I  even  began  to  think  mysell 
approximating  civilized  settlements,  although  1  was  just  enterioJ 
on  the  hunting  ground  of  the  Osages. 

The  buffalo  and  goats  disappeared  on  the  1 2th,  or  rather 
hiad  passed  their  range  and  entered  that  of  the  deer  only.    Qi 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  II. 


if 


da  evening  the 
,ercd  vfUh  »ce. 
,068  and  course 
,er,  after  having 
half  a  dozen  tin 
on  tny  shoulder, 
jntovinmyhM 
erful  heart.    My 
bands  of  the  Paw 
5  and  my  five  tncn 

•bed  over  high  and 
iy,  passed  strongly 
tie  river  tobe  corn- 
try,  as  I  descended, 
scarcely  able  to  di8. 
,edtobe  a  solitary 

y  of  the  soil.  Ihe 
e  bank  of  the  river, 
^,,,.eexpenencd 

n,e  forward.  Alter 
Iherelremainedina 
,f  ^hich  time  having 

a  severe  storm,  an* 
aueam,  whose 


marches  now  lay  through  rich  narrow  bottomsi  from  one  hundred 
and  fifty,  to  two  hundred  yards  wide. 

On  the  1 5th  discovering  timber  sufficiently  large  to  form  ca- 
noes,  I  felled  a  couple  of  trees,  and  commenced  afilitting  out,  I 
would  have  proceeded  further  by  land,  but  as  my  men  were  almost 
worn  out  with  fatigue,  and  as  the  game  grew  scarce,  I  conceived 
it  most  adviseable  to  rest  for  a  short  time,  and  kill  my  winter's  store 
of  meat  This  I  effected  by  the  24th,  and  on  the  same  day  com- 
pleted the  canoes.  On  the  25th  I  again  attempted  the  navigation  of 
the  river,  but  was  as  unfortunate  as  at  first,  for  my  boat  grounded, 
after  floating  a  few  hundred  yards,  and  the  men  were  consequently 
compelled  to  ply  with  their  shoulders  instead  of  their  paddies. 

The  following  day  I  passed  the  Negracka,  at  whose  mouth 
commence  the  craggy  cliffs,  which  line  a  great  part  of  the  shores 
of  the  Arkansaw. 

On  the  28th  the  provision  canoe  oversat,  and  I  lost  nearly  all 
my  stock  of  meat ;  this  accident  was  rendered  the  more  distressing 
by  an  almost  total  loss  of  my  ammunition,  which  unfortunately  was 
in  the  same  canoe. 

On  the  30th,  I  fell  in  with  a  band  of  Grand  Osages,  who 
were  in  pursuit  of  buffalo  cows ;  the  chief  of  the  party  insisted  on 
my  remaining  with  him  a  day,  and  sent  out  his  young  men  to  hunt 
for  me.  In  the  afternoon  two  Indians  of  the  Little  Osage  nation 
joined  us,  with  a  horse  and  mule,  and  brought  me  a  message  from 
Tuttasuggy,  or  the  Wind,  who  it  appeared  was  lying  very  ill,  about 
twenty  miles  across  the  prairie,  and  wished  to  see  me.  As  he  was 
a  particular  favorite  of  mine,  1  left  my  canoes  in  charge  of  the  men, 


one, 


ire 


innmg 
L.dtfes. 

d  «P»  ^  began  tny 
leare      v      ^^^  i-egionBand  passed  \»ith  a  guide  to  the  chief's  temporary  village.     I  found 
uroassed  cre«B  Mm  extremely  unwell,  with  what  I  conceived  to  be  a  dropsy,  for 
1     w  more  thaal  his  abdomen  was  very  much  swollen.     He  seemed  gratified  at  the 
sight  of  me,  and  observed,  "  That  he  was  poor  and  pitiful,  for  the 
•    march,  I  en-Breason  that  he  was  a  friend  to  the  Americans.     He  said  that  Chou- 
d  for  the  firsflteau  after  he  had  arrived  at  their  villages  last  full,  had  treated  him 
°        the  cotton  tretftke  a  child,  and  had  taken  on  to  Washington  his  younger  brother 
• '  '""'^Nezumay  or  the  rain  that  walks,  and  intended  making  him  chief  of 
|he  nation  ;  that  Chouteau  told  him  he  was  a  bad  man,  was  an  Ame- 
can,  but  that  the  Spaniards  were  going  to  war  v  ith  America,  and 
at  in  a  short  time  they  would  claim  all  this  country  again."    That 
prevented  the  traders  allowing  a  credit,  whereby  his  family  were 
uch  distressed,  as  I  clearly  perceived,  for  ihcy  were  even  desti- 
te  of  a  whole  blanket. 


he  trout  v..~  -      ...  .1 
an  a  person  would  un* 

„w„c.,  from  whom  y« 
began  to  think  myse 

.gh  1  was  just  enterini 


rather 


Uheiath,  orr 
of  tl^e  ^""^^  °"^y' 


^ 


'Si  'J 


:r-te 


1 

i 


<    ;i 


28 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  II. 


'iM^h 


This  JVezutnoi  whom  Chouteau  took  on  to  Washington  last  TaN 
with  his  wife,  I  am  better  acquainted  with)  than  perhaps  Mr.  Chou« 
teau  himself.  In  the  first  place,  I  marched  with  him  from  St.  Louis 
to  his  town,  and  he  started  with  us  to  visit  the  Pawnees,  but  the 
mean  and  pitiful  wretch,  got  alarmed  and  sneaked  off  without  even 
advising  us  of  his  departure.  He  has  no  more  command  in  the  vil. 
lage  than  a  child,  is  no  warrior,  and  has  not  even  the  power  to  con> 
troul  the  will  of  a  single  man  of  his  nation.  Whether  this  youth  is 
entitled  to  a  grand  medal,  you  may  judge  from  the  foregoing  state- 
ment. Indeed,  sir,  our  grand  medals  have  become  so  common, 
that  they  do  not  carry  with  them  the  respect  which  they  should.  I 
recollect  one  of  the  deputation  who  was  at  the  seat  of  government, 
the  year  before  the  last,  came  out  with  a  large  medal,  and  an  inter- 
mediate sized  one.  On  our  arrival  at  the  villages,  I  calculated  on 
his  acting  a  conspicuous  part,  but  to  my  utter  astonishment,  he  was 
not  permitted  to  sit  among  the  chiefs,  or  even  the  warriors  at  the 
council. 

You  well  know,  sir,  how  particular  the  Spaniards,  and  the  British 
especially,  have  been  in  their  distribution  of  medals,  and  if  I  mis* 
take  not,  an  Iowa  chiefi  who  had  been  to  the  seat  of  government, 
and  there  received  a  small  medal,  returned  it  in  preference  to  giv- 
ing up  a  large  British  medal,  as  he  valued  it  more  because  it  was 
a  certain  distinguishing  mark  of  a  chief. 

You  gave  to  Mr.  Pike  an  intermediate  size^'  medal,  for  one  of  j 
the  Pawnee  chiefs,  which  he  presented  Iskatappe*   who  having,, 
remarked  the  medals  pendant  from  the  necks  of  the  two  Pavmet 
young  metiy  who  were  on  at  Washington,  demanded  of  what  utiUty 
it  vfould  be  to  him.    The  only  Spanish  medals  in  the  Fawnee  nation,  | 
are  those  worn  by  Characterish,  or  the  White  Wolf  and  his  son. 

The  following  sarcastic  remark  was  made  by  the  son  of  the  I 
"  Bel  Oiseau,"  a  chief  of  the  first  standing  among  the  Grandl 
Osages  whilst  living,  and  who  unfortunately  was  killed  by  the  Sacij 
on  his  way  to  Washington  with  the  first  deputation. 

The  son  of  White  Hairs,  with  <'  Shenga  Wassa,"  or  Beautijii 
Bird,  was  to  accompany  us  to  the  Pawnee  village  ;  but  the  formeij 
proved  recreant,  and  at  the  crossing  of  Grand  River,  said  he  woull 
return  home.  '^  Shame  on  you,"  says  the  latter,  "  what  a  pity  it  ij 
«  so  great  and  honorable  a  medal,  should  be  disgraced  by  so  mean[ 
«  heart." 

You  will  pardon  this  digression,  but  I  would  wish  to  convincj 
you,  from  what  I  have  seen  of  Indians,  how  very  requisite  it  is  i 


;i' 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  11. 


«« 


use  the  tiftnost  caution  in  tb«  diitribution  of  our  presents  and  marks 
of  distinction. 

Before  I  set  out  to  visit  Tuttasu^gy,  the  ice  had  commenced 
drifting  in  large  sheets,  and  on  my  return,  I  found  it  running  from"* 
shore  to  shore,  I  however  pushed  off  and  drifted  with  it. 

The  night  of  the  3d  of  December  was  intensely  cold,  but 
hunger  obliged  me  to  proceed,  and  we  fortunately  reached  the 
mouth  of  the  Neskalonska,  river,  without  accident  or  injury,  ex- 
cepting that  one  of  my  men  got  frosted.  This  day  we  passed  two 
sftlines  which  enter  on  the  south  western  side. 

The  severity  of  the  weather  increased,  and  the  river  froze  over 
on  the  morning  of  the  3d.  This  circumstance  placed  me  in  a  situ- 
ation truly  distressing,  as  my  men  were  almost  naked ;  the  tatters 
which  covered  them  were  comfortless,  and  my  ammunition  was 
nearly  exhausted. 

The  men  solicited  me  to  hut,  but  I  was  resolved  by  perseve- 
rance and  exertion,  to  overcome,  if  in  my  power,  the  obstacles  op- 
posed to  my  progress. 

The  Neskalonska,  is  about  130  yards  wide,  shoal  and  narrow 
at  its  mouth,  but  deepens  and  spreads  after  you  turn  the  first  point 
On  this  stream,  the  Grand  and  Little  Osages  form  their  temporary 
fall  hunting  camps,  and  take  their  peltries.  When  the  severity  of 
winter  sets  in,  the  Grand  Osages  retire  to  "  Groaae  Isle^'*  on  the 
Verdigrise,  or  Wasctihoge  ;  and  the  Little  Osages  to  one  of  its 
small  branches  called  Possitonga,  where  they  remain  during  the 
hard  weather,  and  from  thence  return  to  their  towns  on  the  Neska, 
or  Omi^"*  river. 

On  the  6th  the  ice  began  to  drift,  and  immediately  pushed  off 
ivith  it ;  but  as  my  evil  stare  would  have  i|^  my  boats  again  ground- 
ltd,  and  being  in  the  middle  of  the  river,  my  only  alternative  was  to 
get  out  and  drag  them  along  for  several  miles,  when  we  halted  to 
g  among  ^^^  ^^^^W^""^  ^^^  benumbed  feet  and  hands.    The  next  day  several  large 
vras  luUed  by  tne       ■cakes  of  ice  had  blocked  up  the  river,  and  we  had  to  cut  our  way 
Illation.  .•AB'ii^ugh  them  with  axes }  the  boats  as  usual  grounded,  and  the  men 

Wassa,"  o'^    *       ^"^  legged  and  bare  footed,  were  obliged  to  leap  into  the  water.  This 
kuag*  •  ^^^  .Bappened  so  frequently,  that  two  more  of  my  men  got  badly  frosted, 

ltd  River,  said  ne     ^^  ^     q^^  ^I^^  g^j^  ^^^  ^^  ^  canoes  was  driven  on  a  bank  of  ice,  du- 
ng a  snow  storm,  and  did  not  overtake  me  until  the  evening  of  the 
^h,  and  in  so  shattered  a  condition,  that  she  could  hardty  be  kept 
ove  water,  and  the  poor  fellows  who  were  in  her,  Were  almost 
ozcn. 


ingtonlastfaH 

aps  Mr.  Chou- 
from  Si.  Louis 
wnces,  but  the 
If  ^^bouteven 

roand'mt^c^i^- 
le  power  to  con- 
Lher  this  youth  18 
>  foregoing  state- 
me  so  coTOtnon, 
htbeyahottW.    1 
at  of  governmenl, 
edal,  vind  an  inter- 
B8,  I  calculated  on 
onisbment,  he  was 
the  warriors  at  the 

ards,  and  the  British 

,edals,andif^"'"; 

seaiof  go^e^'"""^?*' 
^„  preference  to  giv- 

more  because  it  «as 

«..  medal,  for  one oi 
latappe,  -^o  hanag 

o  of  the  <««  ^°'^" 

andedofvrhatut^^S 

inthelavrneenauon, 

ro// and  his  son. 


■tter,  «  what  a  pity  ^^1 
fcacedbysomean 


UouldWishtocom>^ 
very  requisite  it" 


tr 


6':  i»i 


30 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  II. 


SIS',. 


Oh  the  lOtb,  about  noon,  I  passed  the  Grand  Saline,  or  the 
Mvftewketonga,  which  is  a  reddish  color,  though  its  water  is  very 
clear.  About  two  days  march  up  this  river,  you  find  the  prairie 
'  grass  on  the  S.  W.  side  incrusted  with  salt,  and  on  the  N.  E.  bank, 
fresh  water  springs,  and  lakes  abounding  with  fish.  This  salt  the 
Arkansaw  Osages,  obtain  by  scraping  it  ofT  of  the  prairie  with  a 
turkey's  wing  into  a  wooden  trencher.  The  river  does  not  derive 
its  name  from  its  saline  properties,  but  the  quantities  that  may 
always  be  found- on  its  banks,  and  is  at  all  seasons  of  the  year  potable. 

On  the  20th  in  the  afternoon,  we  passed  another  saline  with 
water  equally  as  red  as  the  Mwaeivketonga,  and  more  strongly  im* 
pregnated  with  salt. 

After  encountering  every  hanlship,  to  which  a  voyage  is  sub« 
ject  in  small  canoes,  at  so  inclement  a  season  of  the  year,  I  arrived 
on  the  23d  inst.  in  a  storm  of  hail  and  snow,  at  the  wintering  camp 
of  Cashesegra,  or  •<  Big  Track"  chief  of  the  Osages,  who  reside 
on  Verdigrisc  rivers.    On  the  following  day  I  gave  him  your  talk, 
and  received  his  reply,  which  it  is  unnccessai7  to  recount  fully,  ai 
it  was  merely  a  description  of  his  poverty  and  miserable  situation, 
He  however  said,  that  he  had  been  informed,  the  United  States  in> 
tended  erecting  factories,  on  the  Osage  river,  and  that  he  was  anxi- 
ous to  have  one  near  to  his  own  village,  and  for  the  purpose,  he  wai 
willing  to  give  the  United  States  the  tract  of  country  lying  between 
the  Verdigrise  and  Grand  rivers.     A  factory  with  a  garrison  of 
troops  stationed  there,  would  answer  the  double  purpose  of  keeping 
in  order  those  Indians,  who  are  the  most  desperate  and  profligate  partHof  a 
of  the  whole  nation,  and  more  fully  impressing  them  with  an  idea|(/ie 
of  our  consequence,  and  gaining  more  firmly  their  friendship.    It 
also  would  tend  to  preserve  harmony  among  the  Chactaws,  Creeks,nnd  oil 
Cherokees,  and  Osages  ot  the  three  diflerent  villages,  who  are  ini|nien( 
constant  state  of  warfare,  and  further  it  would  prevent  the  Osagei 
making  excursions  into  the  country  of  the  poor  and  peaceably  dii 
posed  Caddoes,  and  might  have  some  eflect  in  confining  the  Sj 
niards  to  their  own  territorial  limits. 

On  the  37th  I  passed  the  mouths  of  the  Verdigrisc  and  Grai 
rivers,  the  former  being  about  a  hundred,  and  the  latter  one  hund 
and  thirty  yards  wide ;  those  streams  enter  within  a  quarter  of 
mile  of  each  other.    Below  the  mouth  of  Grand  river,  comme 
the  rapids,  which  continue  for  several  hundred  miles  down  the 
kansaw. 

About  58  or  60  miles  up  the  Verdigrise,  is  situate  the  Osafl'iif>-e, 
village.    This  band  some  four  or  five  years  since,  were  led  by  ^^fy 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  II. 


91 


Saline,  or  the 
B  w»ier  It  very 
find  the  pra\rte 
xheN.  E.^n^» 
J.    This  Bait  the 
je  prairie  viih  a 
r  doea  not  derive 
entitle*  that  may 
ftheyc»'^P°^^^'' 
.other  aaline  vrith 
more  atrongly  m- 

h  a  voyage  ia  wb- 
the  year,  I  arrived 

^e  wintering  camp 
Oaagea,v,hore«e 

cave  him  your  talk, 
,  to  recount  fuUy»M 
>  n^iserable  situation, 
the  United  State*  in- 
a„dthathev,aaj«- 

.the purpose.  ^«^" 
ountrylyi»8hetv»«n 

PV  withag«'^"°''.''M 
le  purpose  of  keew 

,ate  and  profligate  pan 
,n,themv.ithanH 

y  their  friendship.   Itl 

he  Chactaws,  Creeps, 

viUages,  >vho  are  ma 

,W  prevent  the  Osage 

■^^Jand  peaceably  d^ 

in  confining  the  5>p. 

.VerdigriscandGi 
tithe  latter  one  hunrti 
L  ^vithin  a  quarter  oi 
Land  river,  corome« 
Ld  miles  down  the 

|i,e,  is  situate  the  a 
'  since,  were  led  by 


cliief  Caahesegra,  to  the  intin  of  the  Arkenttw,  «t  the  request  of 
Pierre  ChodteAu,  fbr  th6  purpbfte  of  securing  their  trade.  1  he 
txctutive  trade  of  the  Otage  riveri  having  at  that  time  been  pur> 
chased  from  tlie  Spanish  governor,  bjr  Manuel  Lisa,  of  St.  Louts, 
but  though  Cashettgm  be  the  nominil  leader ;  Clermont,  or  the 
Builder  qf  Towntj  is  the  greatest  warrior,  and  most  influential  man, 
and  is  now  more  firmly  attached  to  the  interests  of  the  Americans, 
tlian  any  other  chief  of  the  nation.  He  is  the  lawful  sovereign  of  the 
Grand  Osages,  but  his  hereditary  right  was  usurped  by  Pahuska,  or 
mite  Hiiir^  whilst  Clermont  was  yet  an  infant.  White  Hair,  in 
fact,  is  a  chief  of  Choiiteau's  creating,  as  well  as  Cashesegra,  and 
neither  have  the  power,  or  disposition  to  restrain  their  young  men 
from  the  perpetration  of  an  improper  act,  fearing  least  they  should 
render  themselves  unpopular.  ' 

On  the  39th  I  passsed  a  fall  of  near  seven  feet  perpendicular, 
and  at  evening  was  visited  by  a  scout  from  an  Osage  war  party,  and 
received  from  them  a  man  by  the  name  of  M*Farlane,  who  had 
been  trapping  up  the  Pottoe.  We  passed  about  noon  this  day,  the 
mouths  of  the  river  des  Illinois,  which  enters  on  the  N.  E.  side, 
ind  the  Canadian  river,  which  puts  in  from  the  S.  W.  The  latter 
river  is  the  main  branch  of  the  Arkansaw,  and  is  equally  as  large. 

On  the  3 1  St  I  passed  the  mouth  of  Pottoe,  a  deep,  though 
narrow  stream,  which  puts  in  on  the  S.  W.  and  alM>  the  river  au 
•<  Millieu"  that  enters  from  the  N.  E. 

On  the  evening  of  the  6th  January  I  reached  the  plantation 
of  a  Mr.  Labomme,  and  was  more  inhospitably  treated  than  by 
the '-  vages  themselves. 

On  the  8th  passed  the  two  upper  Arkansaw  or  Quapaw  villages, 
and  on  the  9th,  after  passing  the  lower  Quapaw  town,  and  a  settle* 
ent  of  Chactaws,  arrived  at  the  post  of  Arkansaw. 

The  surface  of  the  country  between  the  Osage  towns  and  the 
awnee  village  is  generally  broken  and  naked ;  the  soil  sterile,  and 
unding  with  flint  and  lime  stones.  As  you  approach  the  waters 
if  the  Kanses,  it  becomes  hilly  and  sandy ;  the  same  may  be  said  of 
e  country  between  the  Pawnee  village  and  the  Arkansaw,  but  after 
issing  the  ridge  which  separates  the  waters  of  the  Kanses  and  Ar- 
insaw,  the  surface  becomes  more  regular  and  less  stoney. 

Below  the  Verdigrise,  the  shores  of  the  Arkansaw  are  gene* 
illy  lined  with  cane,  and  consequently  rich  bottoms.    I  was  inform- 
by  the  Indians  (.hat  the  country  to  the  north  west  of  the  Osage 
lai);c,  abounds  with  valuable  lead  mines,  but  I  could  make  no  dis' 
ery  of  any  hody  of  mineral. 


.1/   i. 


& 


Pi' 


n 


APPENPIX  TO  PART  U. 


Vi'S  -.' 


The  survey  from  the  Arkenuw  poit  to  the  MiMuiippi,  I  Imu 
U  not  correctt  m  I  wm  ro  ill  when  I  deiccnde4  thtt  pin  of  the  river, 
e«  tp  be  confined  to  my  blenliet. 

The  chert  which  eccoinpiniM  thie  report,  of  the  course  of  the 
ArkanMW,  I  hope  will  prove  letivfactorjr,  not  only  to  y«iirwlf,  bi:^ 
the  president. 

I  hftve  the  honor  to  svbscribo  mytelf. 
Your  ftithfel  end  obliged 

Humbl«  end  obedient  servanti 
(Signed)  Jamxi  B.  WiLxivsoir, 

lit  lieut.  3d  U.  S.  Regt.  of  Infantry 
His  cxeellency 
GeneralJame»  Wilkituorit 

(Commander  in  chief  of  the  U.  S.  «rmy. 


[  No.  3.  3 


St.  Chttrlea,  \7thJutyt  1106. 
Dear  Sin, 

WE  arrived  here  hst  evening  all  well,  except  some  of  tk 
soldiers  from  fatigue,  as  in  the  present  sUte  of  the  water  wean 
obliged  to  row  altogether. ' 

We  weie  disappointed  in  obtaining  any  information  from  I 
Louis,  or  baggage  for  our  Panis.    I  do  not  know  how  it  will 
digested  by  them. 


We  likewise  were  disappointed  in  receiving  a  line  from  you,i| 
we  had  here  expected,  and  in  the  hopes  of  which  I  shall  yet  deti 
until  12  o'clock,  and  then  take  my  departure.  Our  Osage  condu 
themselves  pretty  well,  and  are  very  c!/e  lient  to  orders ;  at  iii| 
they  had  an  idea  a  little  too  free  relative  to  oihf.r  people's  propei* 
but  at  present  stand  corrected. 

I  understood  from  you  that  they  were  equipped  by  Mr.  Tilii^ 
with  every  thing  necessary  for  their  voyage  to  their  towns,  co 
quently,  althcugh  thev  have  been  applying  to  me  for  a  varietjl 
art'wles,  none  of  which  have  they  been  gratified  with,  but  pow( 
;  lu  'mil,  vMch  is  necessary  for  their  own  defence. 


W" 


the  oourw  of  ihc 
f  to  y««ir»»f»  ^■' 


API^EMDIX  TO  PART  II. 


33 


The  general  will  perdon  thit  iciawl,  and  should  he  wnd  an 
expreis  after  m,  pleete  to  let  Mrs.  Pike  know  of  the  opportuailf. 
i  will  deer  sir,  n 

With  high  respect,  f 

Your  obedient  serv  ^nt,  .1 

(Signed)  7"  M.  Pirb,  Lt. 

Oenerai  HUHnton, 


V 


Wit**'"*"*' 


>'.  ti- 


[  No.  4. 1 


I,  exeept  some  of  tkJ 
[te  oC  the  water  vea« 

,yinfonn«tiot»f«>";' 
know  how  it  v»iU 

•        •        * 

living  a  line  from  you, 

UhichI»V»»"y*^'*'= 
[■e     Our  Osage  con* 
\iet>t  to  orders;  at  fit 
oa.^r  people's  propel 

LqulppedbyMr.Til 

L  to  their  towns,  coi 

*  to  me  for  a  variety 


Si.Charlett  \9(hJuiyt  IBO^.—In  thi  motning. 
Dv.'.R  ^'  *:nkhal, 

ENCLOSED  you  have  one  ot  the  articles,  subscribed  by  Mr 
Henry,  mentioned  in  my  note  of  yesterday.    I  hope  the  general 
may  up;>rove  of  the  contents. 

Lieut.  Wilkinson  and  Dr.  Robinson  marched  (with  one  soldier) 
ihis  morning,  and  the  boats  have  proceeded  under  the  conduct  of 
Ballenger ;  I  shall  overtake  them  in  an  hour  or  two.        ,    / 

Numerous  reports  have  been  made  to  the  Indians,  caKurated 

to  impress  them  with  an  idea  that  there  is  a  small  army  of  th^if 

enemies  waiting  to  receive  us  at  the  entrance  of  the  Grand  Osage. 

But  I  have  partly  succeeded  in  scouting  the  idea  from  their  mirida,' 

No  news  of  Chouteau  nor  Panis*  Trunks. 

tam,  deargenerali      ,  ,  • 

Your  obedient  scrviaht, 

(Signed)    ,  2.  M.  Pike,  Lt.'    ' 

*       *•  '     .ik3Il«f-<J.      .1)....  ,:, 

• .jjujff  '. (')f(t.   t'^'    ■■'  iji-fw  Ui^/  >j:.,.  ,-.;,  ,  .  .!<,...,.. 

•  .     ■  ^  9(|J  I.     . 

Village  De  Otaretief  22d  Julyt  1606. 

>SAR   GknERAL, 

I  HAVE  the  honor  to  acknowledge  the  receipt  of  your  two 
liging  lavors  of  the  18th  and  19th  inst.  the  particular  contents  qf 
h,  shall  be  puncoiaUy  attended  to. 

I  assure  you  str,  that  I  am  extremely  pleased  with  the  idea, 
and ,  will  meet  with  their  merited  re- 


'^i 


!'1I-y; 


Klcneral  Wilkinuon. 


iratified  with,  but  pow«    j^^^^^.^ 

Idet'ence.  p-d,  and  I  on  my  part,  am  determined  to  shew  them,  that  it  is  not 

pir  sinister  muvemiuita  dax  can  dvrange  the  objects  of  our  vojf- 


\'-:. 


,•'4 


1 

%: 

II 

% 

■1 

1  ;■' 

if,i 

'Kil 

34 


APFENQIX  TO  PAR,T  M- 


|b.. 


iS  '   .         .    ■«'   "      '  *'i. 


Mii 


i 


n 


age!;  the  greatest  embarmssment  they  have  yet  pccasioned  me,  has 
been  by  ^he  detention  of  tli^  Panis's  baggage^  w^^  have  b^eu 
much  mortified  on  the  occasion.  Uut  I  question ,  i:]^ch  if  under 
similar  impressions  and  circumstances,  many  whive  men  would 
have  borne  their  loss  wiih  more  philosophy,  tlianour  young  savages. 

I  concdve  that  I  cannot  dispose  of  one  of  my  guns  better,  than 
to  give  it  to  Frank,  whose  /uaee  was  left  at  Chouteau's  ;  also,  each 
of  them  a  soldier's  coat ;  this  is  all  the  remuneration  I  will  pretend 
;')  make  them,  and  I  hope  may  bring  them  to  a  good  humor. 

You  will  probably  be  surprised  at  the  slow  progress  we  have 
made,  but,  are  already  infot'med  of  the  cause  of  our  detention  at 
St.  Charles ;  and  since  havetbeen  dietained  tvro  days,  on  account  of 
the  rain  ;  and  although  we  'were  able  to  prevent  the  water  from  en- 
tering immediately  on,  the  top  of  the  boat  where  covered,  yet  the 
quantity  which  she  made  at  both  ends,  occasioned  so  much  damp, 
ness  under  the  loading,  as  to  injure  both  my  own.cqrhj  and  that  of 
the  Indians,  with  other  small  articles,  which  they  ha(| '  iat  various 
times  taken  from  under'the  loading,  and  notYeturhed  to  their  proper 
places  ;  but  they  appear  satisfied,  that  we  have  paid  all  possible  at- 
tention to  prevent  injury,  a^  much,  aiid  indeed  more,  to  their  bag- 
gage than  our  own.  >    .  .   . 

In  consequence  of  the  above,  (and  with  a  design  to  write  you)  I 
I  baited  here  to  day,  which  t  hope  we  shall  usefully  employ  in  dry 
ing  our  bag:7age,  cIeanit)gq^'r  ,arms,  and  putting  ourselVes  in  a  pos 
ture  of  defence.     Lieut.' Wilkinson'  has  experienced  ho  inconveni' 
ence  from  his  march  by  land  with  the  Indians  i  and  the  event  has  prov- 
ed the  necessity  of  some  officer 'acconipanying'them,  as  he  informs 
me,  he  found  it  necessary  to  purchase  some  beeves  for  their  con 
sumption  on  the  route,  for  which  he  drew  on  the  superintendaht  ol 
Indian  affairs,  and  will  write  to  you  more  paiticularly  on  the  sul 
ject.     They  were  absent  from  the  boat  four  days,  and  had  he  m 
been  with  them,  they  would  have  supplied  themselves  by  maraud' 
ing,  to  the  great  oflFence  of  our  good  citizens. 

I  am  >nfut'med,  that  a  party  of  40  Sacs  were  at  Boon's  Lid 
above  the  Osage  river,  a  few  days  since  ;  but,  I  by  no  means  coi 
ceive  on  the  route  to  intercept  us,  as  the  people  pretend  at  tliij 
.place. 

Three  days  since,  one  of  my  men  complained  of  indispositii 
and  went  en  shore  to  matxh  ;  he  has  never  joined  the  party,  and  i'roi 
various  reasons,  I  conceive  has^deserted.     I  have  therefore  encloi 
an  advertisement,  which  if  the  general  will  please  to  cause  to l|ivij}  ..^t 
posted  at  St.  Louis,  Kaskaskius,  and  Lusk's  Ferry  on  the  Ohiu,| 
conceive  he  will  be  caught. 


'tria 


w^ 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  II.  , . 


35 


rcaaioned  vne,  has 
vfii(0  haye  ^^^^' 

whive  men  would 
our  young  savages. 
,y  guns  better,  than 

uteau's}alao»«^'''^*; 
ation  1  will  pretend 
good  humor. 


w  progress 


we  have 


e  of  our  detenuon  at 
a  days,  on  account  of 
»t  the  water  from  en- 

,ere  covered,  yet  the 
oned  so  much  damp. 
own.covn;'andthatof 
htheybad  at  various 

eturnedto'thelr  proper 
.vepaVdaUpo«s|blej^ 
ed  more,  10  their  bag.  I 

_  design  to  write  you)  I 

usefiiily  employ  ^^'^'^^ 
^tingoursavesinapos. 

ieri^nced  no  inconvem-l 
event  has  pvov- 


and  the ' 
tng'them,  as 
|e  beeves 


he  informsi 
foi-  their  conj 


m 


Ipav 


the»uperinlendahtot| 
ticularly  on  the  sul> 


days,  and  hud  he  not 
"themselves  by  mavauaj 


ks. 

U  were 


JUt, 


at  Boon's 


Licli 


1  by  no  means  coi 


people  pretend 


at  tlv 


^plained 


of  indispositu 


I  Jiavc  written  to  capt.  Dani  Bissell  on  tl>e  occasion ;  but  hope 
the  general  will  enforce  my  request  to  that  gentleman,  as  to  his  be- 
ing brought  to  trial.  I  was  much  mortified  at  the  event,  not  only 
on  account  of  the  loss  of  the  man,  but  that  my  peculiar  situation 
prevented  me  from  pursuing  him,  and  making  him  an  example.      - 

With  respect  to  ttie  Tetaus,  the  genetal  may  rest  assured,  I 
shall  use  every  precaution  previous  to  trusting  thdm ;  but  as  to  the 
mode  of  conduct  td  be  pursued  towards  theSpaniards^  I  feel  more 
at  a  loss,  as  my  instrudtions  lead  me  into  the  country  '<if  the  Tetaus^ 
part  of  which,  is  no  doubt  claimed  by  Spain,  althoui^h  the  bounda- 
ris".  between  Louisiana  and  New  Mexico,  have  never  yet  been  de- 
fined, inconsequence  of  which,  should  I  encounter  a  party  from' 
the  villages  near  Santa  Fe,  I  have  thought  it  would  be  good  policy  to 
give  them  to  understand,  that  we  were  about  to  join  our  troops  near 
Matchitoches,  but  had  been  uncertain  about  the  head  waters  of  the 
livers  over  which  we  passed ;  but,  that  »d<w,  if  the  commandant 
approved  of  it,  we   would   pay  him, a  visit  of  politeness,    either 
by  deputation,  or  the  whole  party,  but  if  he  refused,  signify  our  in- 
tention of  pursuing  our  direct  route  to  the  post  below  ;  but  if  not 
I  flatter  myself  secure  us  an  unmolested  retreat  to  Natchitoches. 
Rut  if  the  Spanish  jealousy,  and  the  instigation  of  domestic  traitors 
should  induce  them  to  make  usprtsoners  of  war,  (in  time  of  peace) 
I  trust  to  the  magnanimity  of  our  country  for  our  liberation,  and  a 
due  reward  to  iheir  opposeis,  for  the  insult  and  indignity  offered  their 
national  honor.     However,  unless  they  give  us  ample  assurances  of 
just  and  honorable  tt*eattnenl>  according  to  the  custom  of  nations  in 
like  cases,  I  would  resist,  even  if  the  inequality  was  as  great  as  at 
theaffaiP'of  Bender<  or'tHfc  sti'eights  of  Thermopylx. ' 

Will  you  pardon  the  foregoing  as  the  enthusiasm  of  a  youthful 
mindv  yet,  not  altogether  unihvpressed  by  the  dittates  of  prudence. 

I  hope  the  general  will  be  pfersuaded,  that  with  his  son,  I  sludl 
act  as  I  would  to  a  brother)  endeavoring  in  ailcasea  to  promote  his 
lionor  and  prosperity.  •    ;..iiji{  :.  .i^  ..  t.;i.v  -w  -^  ,:-., 

I  am,  dear  general,     '•    •■;•'--  1 

Your  sincere  friend, 
*■*''•'  And  obedient  humble  servant)' ) 

(Signed)  •-    Z.  M.Pike.  n'O 

[General  J.   Wilkinson.      —  •l'^"  I'^a'/ari  hadUjIj  ;ij.^  ;>/<;; \^  „ 


..5X1'; 


jined  the  party 
have  therefore 


ase 


n\\  pie 
I'erry 


to  cause 


andt'roi| 

•nclosi 

tot 


N.  B.  In  consequence  of  indisposition,  Sec.  lieut.  Wilkinson 
kvill  stcur  one  boat  and  I  the  other. 


on 


the  Ohwl 


M 


f, 


'.^.M ' 


i ''  * 


.-S  r'l 


i'  ^^ 


%tA  \ 


3«  APPENDIX  TO  PARt  II. 

I 

■    ■       ■     ■  .  ,  -  ,  r 

^  ,  -  *  ■   ..■  i   .    .         -  ...  ,  I 

[  No.  f .  3 

.  .  '    FiUage  de  CharettCf  evening  ,qf  the  22d  Julyt  1806. 
Dkak  Sir,  ,  ..  .^yiu-i...,  ,  • 

FINDING  no  prosp^t  of  meeUug  with  «  private  conveyance 
of  our  letter^,  in  time  sufficient  to  find  you.  previou»  to  your  wtting 
!wU,  which 'wonld  be  entirely  too  late  to  secure  my  deserter,  and 
give  you  the  other  informatioa  they  contain,  1  bf^ve  hired  the  bearer 
to  ride  express  to  Belle  Fontaine,  ibr  which  I  have  promised  him> 
eight  dollars }  which  taking  into  view,  his  feriiages,  &c.  it  cannot 
be  deemed  high,  and  I  hope  the  general  will  please  to  order  the 
ailitary  agent  to  discharge  the  samd. 

The  weather  hath  at  length  became  settled,  and  we  set  sail 
tO'morrow  wkh  our  bouts  newly,  and  much  better,  arranged* 
I  ani,  general,  with  sincere  esteem,   ,. 
%  And  high  respect. 

Your  obedient  servant, 
(Signed)    .   ,_  , 
General  Wilkitia^n 4.    .    ,  n.f  nr 


Z.  M.  P^itjf. 


■..:     '     )u  .  .  ;■.  :  .:■ 

.•  ^sfjirisffcsu  i>tn.  ...<£i.No»(7ft:[],, : 

■.:  'Jii.]^  ■■■J  ■^-r,      -     .;;  .      !;it.    ,. 


;.! ;  ■,>!  )j ',;  yj  J 


>  (  .  J'ive  leagues  below  the  river  O^ge^  26rA  Ju/y,  1806. 

Dkab  GBN£RAz.i  ,  !ktir|}fM  ^  ;. 

I  HALT  a  moment,  in  order  to  say  we  have  arrived  thus  far 
all  safe,  although  our  savages  complain  inuch  of  fatigue,  &^c. 

The  bearer  had  been  sent  by  Mr.  Sangonet  to  examine  the  < 
Osage  river,  and  reports  that  they  could  not  get  their  canobs  up  the 
civer  more  than  60  miles :  if  so,  we  huve  a  bad  praspect  before  u&i  { 
but  go  we  will,  if  God  permits.  ^(ii7».|<^ 

I  am,  dear  general, 

Your  ,4^bedient  servant, 

(Signed)  _ Z.  IVt,  Pike. 

Gen.  James  {Wilkinson.  ,'}^«. 

We  have  been  detained  several  duysi  by  the  Indians. 


.  ^.-.^T^.  ■ « .  {' 


i4<i  abn^t'pst^Mio  '  .     .^ 


P^- 


4A^     -.    U   ■•■..      V     f 


'>■  U  '■*■. 


,ate  conveyance 

i  u>  youT  •eiting 
ny  deserter,  and 
hVred  the  bearer. 

ve  promised  him> 
ges,  &c.UcMinot 
ease  to  order  the 

1,  and  we  set  ^ 
r,  arranged. 


PI'- 


1  have  arrived  thus  far 
,f  fatigue,  «^c. 

,net  to  examine  the 
let  their  canofes  up  ihc 

Id  prospect  before  u.,  I 


It  servant, 

theln^i^*-   .'*^*^ 
.*^«oy  itii  ^  -'^ 


APPENDIX  TO  PAUT  II.  37 

[  No. «.  3 

Park  on  the  Otage  river ^  Wth  Aug,  1806. 
Dhak  Sir, 

BY  Baptiste  la  Tulip  I  mnd  this  letter,  who  utforms  me  he 
bears  letters  to  Chouteau,  informing  him  that  a  party  of  the  Little 
Oaaget  have  inarched  to  war  against  the  Kanses ;  and  a  ^rty  of  the 
Grand  Oaagea  left  the  village  expressly  to  make  war  on  the  white 
people  on  the  Arkansaw.  This  latter  step  the  White  Hair  did  every 
thing  in  his  power  to  prevent,  but  could  not.  If  true,  what  are  we 
to  think  of 'Our  bon»  aim*  the  Osage  ? 

But  to  ■*■  must  we  ascribe  the  stroke  against  the  Kaneeiy 

trho  I  am  informed  sent  a  message  to  the  Osage  nation  to  raze  the 
Kanses  village  entirely.  On  this  subject  I  intended  to  have  been 
more  particular,  and  substantiate  it  by  proofs ;  but  present  circum- 
stances seem  to  give  credit  to  it.  On  my  arrival  at  the  village,  more 
I  'particular  enquiry  shall  be  made  on  the  subject. 

Yesterday  morning  lieutenant  Wilkinson,  the  doctor,  interpre- 
ter, and  one  soldier,  marched  with  the  Indians,  as  they  were  very 
apprehensive  of  an  attack.  The  people  in  the  canoe  heard  them 
crying  and  saw  them  on  their  march. 

Nothing  extraordinary  has  yet  taken  place  on  our  route,  except 
our  being  favored  with  a  vast  quantity  of  rain,  which  I  hope  will 
enaible  us  to  ascend  to  the  village. 

What  face  will  the  Indians  receive  us  with  ?  and  to  whom  are 
we  to  ascribe  their  hostile  disposition,  unless  the  traitors  of  St 
liOuis  ? 

Lieutenant  Wilkinson  is  in  very  good  health,  and  will  lament 
his  having  missed  this  opportunity  of  assuring  his  parents  of  his 
I  love  and  affection. 

I  am,  dear  general, 

Your  obedient  sertant, 
(Signed)  Z.  M.  Pixr 

Gen.  James  IVtlkinson. 


'     I'J 


m 


m 


Wc 


i.l 


'i 

;i'i^  '1 

M'i" 

'li . : 

ih.' 

»H; \\:  ■  • 

i|. 

k' ■■ 

■   li:^^ 

■i^y 

;■'.:"'! 

MP'yif^ 

;}4iM  iSW" 


i*^>  *'■ 


SH 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  II. 


Ih 


[  No.  9.  ] 

Cantonment,  Missouriy  August  6,  1 806. 
SiR» 

IN  consequence  of  the  receipt  of  the  enclosed  letters,  I  have 
thought  proper  to  send  you  an  express,  to  eni^ble  you  to  announce  to 
the  Osage  the  designs  of  their  enemies,  that  they  may  take  season- 
able measures  to  circumvent  them.  You  will  not  fail,  in  addition  to 
the  within  talk,  to  enhance  our  paternal  regard  for  this  nation,  by 
every  proper  expression;  but  are  to  keep  clear  of  any  conflict  in 
which  they  may  be  involved,  though  you  are  tq  avoid  the  appearance 
of  abandoning  them.  If  it  should  be  the  Potpwatomies'  intention  to 
earry  their  threat  into  execution.  It  is  probable  they  will  not  attempt 
to  make  the  blow  before  the  falling  of  the  leaves,  and  in  the  mean 
time  the  Osages  should  establish  a  chain  of  light  scouts,  along  the 
coast  of  the  Missouri,  to  ascertain  with  certainty  the  approach  of 
their  enemy. 

It  is  reduced  to  a  certainty  that       .  and  a  society  of  which 

he  is  the  ostensible  leader,  have  determined  on  a  project  to  open 
some  commercial  intercourse  with  Santa  Fe,  and  as  this  may  lead  i 
to  a  connection  injurious  to  the  United  States,  and  will,  I  understand, 
be  attempted  without  the  sanction  of  law  or  the  permission  of  the  ( 
executive  :  you  must  do  what,  consistently,  you  can  to  defeat  the  plan. 
No  good  can  be  derived  to  the  United  States  from  such  a  project, 
because  the  prosecution  of  it  will  depend  entirely  on  the  Spaniards,! 
and  they  will  not  permit  it,  unless  to  serve  their  political,  as  well  as] 
their  personal  interests.    I  am  informed  that  the  ensuing  autumol 
and  winter  will  be  employed  in  reconnoitring  and  opening  a  connec-[ 
tion  with  the  Tetaus,  Panis,  &c.  that  this  fall,  or  the  next  winter,  i 
grand  magazine  is  to  be  established  at  the  Osage  towns,  where  thesi 

operations  will  commence  ;  that         ' is  to  be  the  active  agentj 

having  formed  a  connection  with  the  Tetaus.  This  will  carry  for] 
ward  their  merchandise  within  three  or  four  clays  travel  of  tin 
Spanish  settlements,  where  they  will  deposit  it,  under  a  guard  of  301 
Tetaus.    .  will  then  go  forward  with  four  or  five  atiendantj 

taking  with  him  some  jewelry  and  fine  goods.     With  those  he  \i\ 
visit  the  governor,  to  whom  he  will  make  presents,  and  implore  I 
pity  by  a  fine  talc  of  sufferings  which  have  been  endured  by  til 
change   of  goveniment :  that  they  are  left  here,  with  goods  to  f 
sure,  but  not  a  dollar's  worth  of  bullion,  and  therefore  they  liavei 
vf'Dtined  to  see  him,  for  the  purpose  of  prayintj  liis  leave  forthej 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  IL 


L'i  l 


lugust  6,  1806. 

losed  letters,  I  have 
B  you  to  announce  to 
,ey  may  take  season- 
wtfail,  in  addition  to 
rd  for  this  nation,  by 
ar  of  any  conflict  in 
avoid  the  appearance 
k-atomies'  intention  to 
!  they  will  not  attempt 
Lves,  and  in  the  mean 
ight  scouts,  along  the 
ainty  the  approach  of 

md  a  society  of  which 

„.,,.;  t.rt  to  open 

lead 


project  to  open 


U^ImUm,  of  their  propen,  !„,„ ...  '  " 

"■=  «'«"«  of  'he  good,1i,T  e  .^.dT"";    'f  *' '"«»"'  "■"' 
will  i„,i,e  .oraeof  lus  cou^' „     """' '  "  '"=  «f"«s,  then 

™d..™r,oope„.fo„.,  „'S;°^*;™  ,"  ™r'""-«»«.  >.e  will 
Spaniard,  wilf  notdare  to  attack  1!.™^  1° '  *"'"  °''«'''",  u,e 
Md  J^u  mu.t  take  all  prud^fanS  .     r T  """  ^'^ '«'«  '!>»  plan! 

In  «gani  to  your  aptrx?^.,^         """'  '" '"'"'  '"  "?■ 
«l.ould  your  rout.  Ldyn°aT       '"  ""  ^P'-ish  aettl.ments 

»on  and  diacreUon,  a.  ma,  pre"e«  1  ""  "".""^  '^u-n.pec' 
Wd  responaibl.  for  conseVuencTs  TZ  "f «'  "  >-"'  -""  to 
"F  orders.  We  have  noUiint  „,!;  °"  ""'"^J""  I  refer  rou  to 
■i-  in  Eu,.pe,  b„tf:^^X*"rhf"V'''''''*«-So.i  - 
""rd.  below  are  behaving  now  whh  *  '  -nderstand  the  Spa. 

By  the  return  of  the  b^Zr       ^    """"''• 

Pfng  a  step  before  you,  for  fe  r  of  del?  T  '^'^^  ""«'"" 
fo  me  you  ra.y,  ^j  „„  ^'  °^  f  "J"""  "><1  diMpp„i„,„,e„,. 
""nnle  detail  of  everv  th  »IT  .  '^  '^™"'''  "»«  only  givinB  . 
P-Pect,  and  the  conlc^o/trelVr  ^^  rl  "°'''  ""  *»  "f^r 

me 


^d  «.«,  I  "n<le.»»»4  iHoks  have  been  p.ld  f  om  s,  r    ""''   "  '""  "«—  "-  •  «..v 
the  pertniMion  of  the  I,,,,,  „„,,  „  '  °"  ^'-  I"""",  you  „i||  „i,^  „         "  "'f 

„eantodefeat.hepta.|.,„i,,,  ^J^---"    "«faU  togve  partieuu^ 

,  from  »uch  a  pfojec  J„pUon.    Kncloi t^r  disilTf'""  """""'"'  """ence  „"    '<le 
urely  on  the  Sparaards,|i„„„  „^  .       o'""'.  .™P,»  "=••  for  me  to  colonel  Hunt,  andl  ,   m 

„,..poUtica..  -"f  ^.oyoutoJe    rN^   'r       """"'""•    '       "' '  « 
heenautoB  ""'""l.mment  pending  K-  '"  "^""'  '»  '>o«  the  sea.  If 

d  opening  a  connect  ^^  ,,f;»^    f  '     -.on  of  congress  ;  yet  you  „1 "       .^r 


four  day 

tit,  under  a  guard  of  30 

th  four  or  five  atlcmlant! 
)ds.  With  those  he  wi 
presents,  and  implore  li 
Ave  been  endured  by  tl 
ft  here,  with  goods  to  1  j^^.^ 
,d  therefore  they  have!  ^^^ 
•aying  his  leave  for  the  1 


-!■  you  tvill  rcadi^derstr !';""■'  T  '  ^"^  ''"'P"  P' 
'!«.ed  from  .he  motion  of    .eV^^^.^f  «'".  in  some, Ice 
'Mn  than  lUercury.  I  think"  !      '  "  '  ^"''  f"  »  fairer  artilicial 
'  of  it  would  do  14  „    1  '  'ha  ""'  '  '""*  •P'"''^         0 
-da  has  botched  his^::i'L,'     H.'ZZT''''''  »  "''^' 
•"«d,  and  himself  in  the  Lcander  r.  "  '""  ''^"""'"■s 


'J^ 


'1, 


MK   iJ.: 


£     ' 


j'i  t 


40 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  11. 


J'*  t,'' 


Ifr- 


Bail  of  the  line  with  Jerome  BonaDarte  at  Martinique.    I  consider 
them  lost. 

Your  children  have  been  indisposed;  but  Mrs.  Pike  writes 
you.  She  appears  well.  My  regards  to  your  associates,  and  may 
God  protect  you.  , 

(Signed)  J.  Wilkinson. 

Lieutenant  Pike. 


I 


1^1 


>.i\ 


[  No.  10.  ] 

Camfi  IndefiendencCi  near  the  Osage  Townsj  Augiiit  28, 1806. 
Deau  General, 

You  will  no  doubt  be  much  surprised  to  perceive  by  the  date 
of  this  letter,  that  we  are  still  here  ;  but  we  have  been  unavoidably 
detained  by  a  variety  of  circumstances. 

I  had  the  happiness  to  receive  your  express  the  day  of  my  ar- 
rival, the  bearer  having  arrived  the  night  before,  and  have  attended 
particularly  to  its  contents. 

On  the    19th  inst.  I  delivered  your  fiarole  to  the  Chevcux, 
Blanche,  and  on  the  21st  held  a  grand  council  of  both  towns,  andj 
siade  the  necessary  communications  and  demands  for  horses,  on  thej 
subject  of  making  peace  with  the  Kans,  accompanying  me  to  thi 
Panis,  down  the  Arkansaw,  and  if  there  was  any  brave  enough  to  ac- 
company me  the  whole  voyage. 

They  requested  one  day  to  hold  council  in  the  villages  previj 
ous  to  giving  an  answer.    It  was  three  before  I  received  any;  theij 
'detiermination  was  as  follows :— From  the  Grand  Osage  village, 
the  Chevcux  Ulanch<J  We  are  accompanied  by  his  son,  and  Jean 
Fon^  the  second  chief  of  the  village,  with  some  young  men  n( 
known,  and  he  furnishes  us  four  horses. 

The  Little  Osage  sends  the  brother  of  the  chief  (whom  I  real 
find  to  be  the  third  chief  of  the  village)  and  some  young  men 
known,  and  furnishes  six  horses ! !  This  is  their  present  protnii 
but  four  of  the  ten  are  yet  deficient.  With  these  I  am  merely  caj 
ble  of  transporting  our  merchandise  and  ammunition.  I  shall  pi 
thase  two  more,  for  which  I  find  we  shall  be  obliged  to  pay  exi 
vagant  prices. 

I  sincerely  believe  that  the  two  chiefs.  White  Hair  and 
Wind^  have  exerted  all  their  influence  ;  but  it  must  be  but  A 


was 
asafl 

pienti 


lair,  tl 


'"^m*  I 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  II. 


41 


"I;- 


ue.    Icon&Wer 

,4rs.  Pike  writes 
ociates,  and  may 


perceive  by  the  date 
5^  been  unavoidably 

ess  the  day  of  my  «. 
,re,  and  have  attet^ded 

aro/e  to  the  Cheveuxi 

,U  of  both  towns,  anil 
^,nds  for  horses,  on  hj 

;ompanyinS  me  to  the^ 
nyfcravc  enough  to  acl 

I  in  the  villages  previ 
L 1  received  any  ithtil 

3V  h'ls  son,  and  Jean 
some  young  tnen  nd 

L  chief  Ovi^°«^^'''^ 
Id  some  young  men  u 
s  their  present  pror^ 
these  lam  merely 

\munition.    l^baUP 
,  be  obliged  to  pay  ext 

L  White  Hair  and 
Lt  it  must  be  but 


when  they  could  only  procure  ten  horses  out  of  seven  or  eight  hun- 
dred. 

I  have  taken  an  exact  survey  of  the  river  to  this  place,  noting 
particular  streams,  Sec.  a  protracted  copy  of  which  lieutenant  Wil- 
kinson forwards  by  this  opportunity.  Since  our  arrival  here  I  have 
ascertained  the  variation  of  the  compass  to  be  6**  2(/  E.  the  latitude, 
by  means  of  several  observations,  37"  26'  17"  N.  and  by  an  observa* 
tion  of  three  different  nights,  obtained  two  immersions  of  Jupiter's 
satellites,  which  will  enable  us  to  ascertain  every  geographical  object 
in  view. 

On  the  same  night  I  arrived  near  the  village,  tliere  was  a 
Mr.  Baptist  Duchouquette,  alias  Larme,  with  two  men,  in  a  small 
canoe  arrived  and  went  immediately  to  the  lodge  of  the  White 
Hair,  whose  conduct,  with  that  of  our  resident  interpreter,  appears 
(in  my  estimation)  to  have  changed  since  I  sent  lieutenant  Wilkin- 
son to  demand  to  see  Baptist's  passport,  if  he  had  one  :  if  not,  to 
bring  him  to  camp — which  was  done.  I  detained  him  two  days, 
until  I  had  made  an  enquiry  of  White  Hair,  who  said  he  had  merely 
mentioned  him  that  Labardie  was  coming  with  a  quantity  of 
goods.  Finding  I  could  substantiate  nothing  more  criminal  against 
him  than  his  having  entered  the  Indian  boundaries  without  a  pass- 
port, and  not  being  able  to  send  hiri  back  a  prisoner,  detained  him 
sufficient  time  to  alarm  him,  and  then  took  his  deposition  (a  copy  of 
which  is  inclosed  to  the  attorney-general),  and  wrote  Dr.  Brown 
on  the  occasion,  and  requested  him  to  enter  a  prosecution  against 
these  men. 

Barroney  informs  me  that  he  has  not  the  least  doubt  but 

I  was  at  the  bottom  of  this  embassy,  although  in  the  name  of , 

as  after  the  arrival  of  Baptist,  the  Indians  frequently  spoke  of 

and  declared,  if  he  had  come  he  could  have  obtained  horses 

I  plenty. 

Our  interpreter,  also  (Maugraine),  I  do  believe  to  be  a  perfect 
Icreature  of  ■  :  he  has  almost  positively  refused  to  accom- 

Ipany  me  (although  I  read  your  order  on  the  subject),  alledginjj  he  • 
Iwas  only  engaged  to  interpret  at  this  place,  notwithstanding  he  went 
llast  year  to  the  Arkansaw  for  Mr.  Chouteau  without  diffir.uhy.  I  have 
not  yet  determined  on  the  line  of  conduct  to  be  pursued  with  him, 
but  believe,  on  his  giving  a  positive  refusal,  I  shall  use  military  law. 
phat  the  result  will  be  is  uncertain ;  but  to  be  thus  braved  by  a 
[coundrel,  will  be  lessening  the  dignity  of  our  government.  He  is 
[jarried  into  a  powerful  family,  and  appears,  next  to  the  White 
lair,  to  have  the  most  influence  in  the  Grand  village.    The  general 


i5'S  ■ 
.1  ]1| 


.ll 

4 

\'.., 

iiv  1 

'flP'^'f 

■i        ( 

J 

":t    i'-iiJi 


43 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  II. 


will  please  to  observe  that  much  of  the  foregoing  rests  on  conjee- 
ture,  and  therefore  will  give  it  its  due  weight.  But  to  him  I  not 
only  write  as  my  general)  but  as  a  paternal  friend,  who  would  not 
make  use  of  my  open  communicationsi  when  not  capable  of  being 
substantiated  by  proofs. 

We  have  heard  nothing  of  the  Fotowatomies ;  but  should  they 
come  in  a  few  days,  they  will  meet  with  a  warm  reception,  as  all  are 
ready  to  receive  them. 

Since  my  arrival  here  many  Spanish  medals  have  been  shown 
me,  and  some  commissions.  All  I  have  done  on  the  subject  is 
merely  to  advise  their  delivery  beloW,  when  they  would  be  acknow- 
ledged by  our  government.  Many  have  applied  for  permission  to 
go  to  Saint  Louis ;  none  of  which  I  have  granted,  except  to  the  son 
of  Sans  Orielle,  who  goes  down  to  make  enquiry  for  his  sister. 

I  have  advanced  our  express  some  things  on  account,  and  for. 
ward  his  receipts;  also,  some  trifles  to  Barroney,  who  I  have 
found  to  be  one  of  the  nnest  young  men  I  ever  knew;  in  his  situa- 
tion, and  appears  to  have  entirely  renounced  all  his  Saint  Louis  con- 
neciions,  and  is  as  Brm  an  American  as  if  born  one :  he  of  course  is 
entirely  discarded  by  the  people  of  Saint  Louis ;  but  I  hope  he  will 
not  suffer  for  his.  fidelity. 

On  the  chai't  forwarded  by  lieutenant  Wilkinson  is  noted  the 
census  which  I  caused  to  be  taken  of  the  village  of  the  Littk 
Osage :  that  of  the  big  one  I  shall  likewise  obtain — which  are  from 
actual  enumeration.  Lieutenant  Wilkinson  will  (if  nothing  extra* 
ordinary  prevents)  descend  the  Arkansaw,  accompanied  by  Ballen- 
ger  and  two  men,  as  the  former  is  now  perfectly  acquainted  with  the  I 
mode  of  taking  courses  and  protracting  his  route,  and  the  latter 
appears  as  if  he  had  not  the  proper  capacity  for  it,  although  a  good  | 
dispositioned  and  brave  man. 

I  am,  dear  sir. 

Your  obedient  servant, 
(Signed)  •  Z.  M.  Pike,  Lt. 

Cien,  Wilkinson. 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  H. 


4S 


e»U  on  conjec- 
it  to  turn  1  not 
vho  vouW  not 
apable  of  being 

but  should  they 
;eptioP,a»all«« 

have  been  shown 
yti  the  subject  is 
^ouWbeacknow- 

for  permission  to 
I,  except  to  the  son 

for  his  sister. 

^n  account,  and  for. 

-«    who  1  have 
roneyi  w"° , 
.r  knew/in  his  situa. 

hl9S«nt  Louis  con. 

one:heofcourse« 

.jbutlhopehewiU 

Ukinson  is  noted  U.e 

vinage  of  the  LittU 

tain— which  are  from 

„iU  (if  nothrog  extra- 
companiedbyMen. 
lyacqu^ntedv^iththe 
,  route,  and  the  latter 
ifor  it,  although  a  good  1 


servant, 


[No.ll.  ] 

29thJuguttt  180e. 
Dear  Siu, 

I  WILL  continue  my  communications,  by  relating  that  the 
IVind  has  come  in  and  informed  me  that  the  other  two  horses  which 
he  promised  have  been  withdrawn  by  their  owners.  He  appeared 
really  distressedi  and  I  conceive  I  do  him  justice  in  believing  that  he 
is  extremely  mortified  at  the  deceptions  which  have  been  passed  on 
him. 

It  is  with  extreme  pain  I  keep  myself  coo!  amongst  the  diffi- 
cutties  which  those  people  appear  to  have  a  disposition  to  throw  in 
my  way ;  but  I  have  declared  to  them  that  I  should  go  on,  even  if  I 
collected  our  tents  and  other  baggage  (which  we  will  be  obliged  to 
leave  together)  and  burn  them  on  the  spot.  >  - 

I  have  sold  the  batteaux  which  I  brought  up  (and  which  was 
extremely  rotten)  for  100  dollars,  in  merchandize,  the  price  of  this 
place,  which  I  conceive  was  preferable  to  leaving  her  to  destruction! 
as  I  am  afraid  I  do  the  barge  (for  which  I  demanded  150  dollars), 
although  I  leave  her  under  charge  of  the  Wind  and  shall  report  her 
to  colonel  Hunt. 

I  shall  dispatch  the  express  to-morrow,  as  he  complains  much 

of  the  detention,  Sec.  and  as  I  hope  nothing  worthy  of  note  will  occur 

at  this  place  previous  to  our  departure.    I  hope  the  general  will  be- 

I  lieve  me  to  bci  and  should  this  be  my  last  report,  to  have  been,  his 

sincerely  attached  friend  and 

obedient  servant, 
(Signed)  Z.M.PiK»,Lt. 

Gen,  Wilkinson. 


r  No.  12.  ] 

-•■'^    •'  SOth  jiu^atf  Oaage  Toitmsy  1&06. 

Dear  Sir,  * 

I  HAVE  brought  Mr.  Noal,  alias  Maugraine,  to  reason,  and 
he  either  goes  himself  or  hires,  at  his  expence,  a  young  man  who  is 
jiere  who  speaks  the  Panis  language,  and  in  many  other  respects  is 
referable  to  himself;  but  he  will  be  the  bearer  of  the  express  to 
laint  Louis. 


li    'I'S 


vW' 


i  f 


k   i 


u 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  II. 


The  Cheveux  Blanche  requested  me  to  inform  you  that  there 
is  a  murderer  (an  Osage)  in  his  village,  who  killed  a  Frenchman  on 
the  Arkansaw  j  but  owing  to  the  great  dissentions  and  schisn.  of  the 
Arkansaw  faction,  he  is  fearful  to  deliver  him  up,  without  some  of 
his  friends  having  agreed  to  it,  and  his  authority  being  strengthened 
by  a  formal  demand  from  you,  when  he  assures  me  he  shall  be 
brought  down  a  prisoner.  Indeed  the  Cheveux  Blanche  appears  to 
be  very  delicately  situated,  as  the  village  on  the  Arkansaw  serves  a« 
a  place  of  refuge  for  all  the  young,  daring,  and  discontented  ;  and 
added  to  which,  they  are  much  more  regularly  supplied  with  ammu- 
nition, and,  should  not  our  government  take  some  steps  to  prevent 
it,  they  will  ruin  the  Grand  village,  as  they  are  at  liberty  to  make 
war  without  restraint,  especially  on  the  nations  who  are  to  the  west, 
and  have  plenty  of  horses.  The  chief  says  he  was  promised,  at 
Washington,  that  these  people  should  be  brought  back  to  join  him ; 
but,  on  the  contrary,  many  of  his  village  are  emigrating  there. 

Owing  to  the  difficulty  of  obtaining  horses,  Mr.  il  ^.nry  returns 
from  this  place.  In  descending  the  Mississippi  I  will  ^'equest  him 
to  pay  his  respects  to  you. 

I  last  evening  took  the  census  of  the  Grand  village)  and  found 
it  to  be— 

Men  .  .-  %  502 
Boys  .  .'  .  341 
Women  and  Girls  852 


Total 


1695 


Lodges 


214 


The  express  waits,  which  I  hope  the  general  will  accept  as  an] 
excuse  for  this  scrawl,  having  written  him  fully  on  the  28th 
39th  inst.  ;' 

I  am,  dear  general,  ■* 

'     ,  Your  ever  sincere  friend 

and  obedient  servant, 

Z.  M.  Pike,  Lt. 


(Signed) 
Gin,  J.  Wilkinaon. 


.>■ 


[c(I  sa 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  II. 


you  that  there 
Frenchman  on 
,d  tchiw.  of  the 
ritbout  wme  ot 
ng  fltrenglhened 
,ne  he  thall  be 

ancbe»PP*a"*o 
kan»avf»enre»a» 

iscontented  i  and 
plied  with  ammu- 
B  stepa  to  prevent 
at  liberty  to  make 
ho  ere  to  the  west, 
^aa  promiaed,  at 
t  back  to  join  him; 

grating  there. 
Mr.  K^nry  returns 

ilvili  veque»t^^'» 
,d  village,  and  found 


."^Tal  will  accept  as  an! 
ffuUyontbe28tb.n4J 

{■  ■     ■     '  ^ 

.V 

re  friend 
ent  servant, 
Z.M.PiKE.Lt- 


[  No.  13.  ] 

Pawnee  Ee/iublict  Itt  Oct.  1806. 
Sir, 

WE  arrived  here  on  the  35th  ult.  after  a  tedious  march  of  375 
miles,  the  distance  (as  I  conceive)  being  very  much  augmented  by 
the  Osages,  who  accompanied  us,  leading  us  too  far  to  the  south, 
owing  to  their  great  fear  of  the  Kans.  We  sufTered  considerably 
with  thirst,  but  our  guns  furnished  us  amply  with  buffalo  meat. 

We  delivered  in  safety  to  the  chief  the  two  young  Pawnees  who 
had  lately  visited  Washington,  and  caused  to  be  explained  to  the 
nation,  the  parole  which  they  bore  from  the  president  of  the  United 
Statec. 

On  our  arrival,  we  founcf  the  Spanish  and  American  flags  both 
expanded  in  the  village,  and  were  much  surprised  to  Icam,  that  it 
Mras  not  more  than  three  or  four  weeks,  since  a  party  of  Spanish 
troops  (whose  number  were  estimated  by  the  Indians  of  this  town,  at 
300)  had  returned  to  Santa  Fe ;  and  further  learnt  that  a  large  body  of 
troops  had  left  N.  Mexico,  ftnd  on  their  march  had  met  with  the  vil- 
lagers of  the  Pawnee  Mahaws,  who  were  on  one  of  their  semi>annual 
excursions ;  that  they  encamped  together,  and  entered  into  a  treaty, 
but  after  this  the  Pawnees  raised  their  camp  in  the  nifi^ht,  and  stole 
a  large  portion  of  the  Spaniards  horses.  This  circumstance  indue* 
ed  them  to  halt  on  the  Arkansaw  with  the  main  body  of  the  troops, 
and  to  send  forward  the  party  who  appeared  at  this  village  ;  who 
proixised  to  this  chief  to  join  a  party  of  his  warrioi-s  to  their  troops, 
march  to  and  entirely  destroy  the  village  of  the  Pawnee  Mahaws ; 
this  proposition  he  had  prudence  enough  to  reject,  although  at  war 
with  that  nation.  The  Spanish  officer  informed  him  that  his  supe- 
rior, who  remained  at  the  Arkansaw,  had  marched  from  Santa  Fe, 
with  an  intention  of  entering  into  a  treaty  with  the  following  nations 
of  Indians,  viz :  I'he  Kanses,  the  Pawnee  Republic,  the  Grand 
Pawnees,  Pawnee  Loups,  Otos,  and  Mahaws  ;  and  had  with  him  a 
grand  medal,  commissions,  and  four  mules  for  each  ;  but  by  the 
stroke  of  the  Pawnee  Mahaws,  the  plan  was  disconcerted,  except 
only  as  to  this  nation.  The  commissions  are  dated  Santa  Fc,  15th 
June  1806,  and  signed  governor  general,  Sec  £cc.  of  New  Mexico, 
and  run  in  the  usual  style  of  Spanish  commissions  to  savages,  as 
I  far  as  I  was  capable  of  judging  of  their  contents. 

The  chief  further  informed  me,  that  the  officer  who  command- 
led  said  party,  was  too  young  to  hold  councils,  &c.  that  he  had  only 


.f ' 


ii'i'i 


P 


t'l 


I   ■' 


46 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  II. 


I 


i  rr 

t 


mm 


m  ■■^ 


come  to  open  the  road,  but  that  in  the  ipring  his  superior  would  be 
here,  and  teach  the  Indians  what  was  good  for  them  ;  and  that  they 
would  build  a  town  near  them.  In  short,  it  appears  to  me  to  have 
been  an  expedition  expressly  f  jr  the  purpose  of  striliing  a  dread  into 
those  diflercnt  nations  of  t^ie  Spanish  power,  and  to  bring  about  a 
general  combination  in  their  favor.  Under  these  impressions,  I 
Iiave  taken  the  earliest  opportunity  of  reporting  the  infringement  of 
our  territory,  in  order  that  our  government  may  not  remain  in  the 
dark,  as  to  the  views  of  her  neighbor.  I  effected  a  meeting  at  this 
place,  between  a  few  Kans  and  Usages,  who  smoked  the  pipe  of 
peace  and  buried  the  hatchet,  agreeably  to  the  wishes  of  their  great 
father ;  in  consequence  of  which  a  Kans  has  marched  for  the  Osage 
nation,  and  some  of  the  latter  propose  to  accompany  the  former  to 
their  vi]luy;c  ;  whether  this  good  understanding  will  be  permanent, 
I  will  not  take  on  me  to  determine  ;  but  at  least,  a  temporary  good 
effect  has  succeeded.  From  the  Osage  towns,  I  have  taken  the 
courses  and  distances,  by  the  route  we  came,  marking  each  river  or 
rivulet  we  crossed,  pointing  out  the  dividing  ridges,  &c.  The  wa* 
ters  which  wc  crossed,  were  the  head  of  the  Osage,  White-,  and 
Verdigrise  rivers,  (branches  of  the  Arkansaw)  and  the  waters  cf 
the  Knns  river.  The  latitude  of  this  place,  I  presume}  will  be  in 
about  39°  3(/  N.  and  I  hope  to  obtain  every  jther  astronomical  obscr- 
vatinn,  whicii  will  be  requisite  to  fix  its  geographical  situation  be- 
yond dispute.  I  expect  to  march  from  here  in  a  few  days,  but  the 
future  prospects  of  the  voyage  arc  entirely  uncertain,  af  the  savages 
strive  to  throw  every  impediment  in  our  way,  agreeably  to  the  or- 
ders received  from  the  Spaniards.  Being  seated  on  the  ground) 
and  writing  en  the  back  of  a  book,  I  hope  will  plead  my  excuse  for 
this  scrawl. 

I  am,  sir, 

With  high  respect, . 

Your  obedient  servant. 


■  .^.1^yl 


(Signed) 
T/ie  hon.  Iivnry  Dearborn^ 

I 

Sccretuvy  wardepiivtmetu. 


J»ill 


iveb 

itiim 

lustac 

ces; 

Pixr,  I.t. 

uards 

•J  j< ' 

ange 

.  ' 

Th 

eanst 

'.'.  ■  ( "  I  *, 

Ticks 

,',:        ."■'! 

iJting 

•\'    '■''.      ^\'' 

their 

-r    1   r»    •/     » 

On 

/  .;;■.  -  .■{ 

snion 

*      ■■-.■-.; 

Qdshii 

ant' 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  II. 


4r 


rior  vrou\d  be 
and  that  they 
to  roe  to  have 
ngadrcadin^o 
bring  about  a 
Impreiaiow,  I 
infringement  oi 


>t  reroain 


in  the 


meeting  at  thw 

^cd  the  pipe  of 
,es  of  their  great 
,edfor  the  Osage 
any  the  former  to 
lU  be  permanent, 
a  temporary  good 
1  have  taken  the 
rking  each  river  or 

3sage,  White,  and 
and  tbe  viators  ct 

me   wiU  bem 
Ctronomicalobscr- 


phicai  situation 


he 


[  No.  U.  ] 

Pawnee  RcfiubUcy  2d  Oct.  1806. 

DbAR  OBNBllAtt 

INCLOSED  you  have  «  copy  of  my  letter  from  this  place,  to  the 
Mcntary  of  war,  in  ore'  er,  that  should  you  think  any  communication 
on  the  contents  nece!isat7,  you  may  have  a  pni'fect  command  of  the 
information  given  the  war  departntent,  and  will  be  the  more  capable 
tf  illustrating  the  subject. 

You  will  perceive  by  said  communication,  that  we  were  led 
eondderably  out  of  our  course  by  our  guides,  and  in  my  opinion  not 
less  than  100  miles ;  this  was  entirely  owing  to  the  pusillanimity  of 
the  Osage,  who  were  more  afraid  of  the  KanS|  than  I  could  possibly 
have  imagined. 

You  will  likewise  perceive  the  council  which  took  place  be- 
tween those  nations  (under  our  auspices')  and  its  effects,  but  which 
11  candidly  confess,  I  have  very  little  hopes  will  be  productive  of  a 
permanent  peace,  as  none  of  the  principal  men  of  either  nation 
I  were  present ;  but  as  both  are  anxious  for  a  cessation  of  hostilities 
[perhaps  it  may  have  the  desired  effect. 

Two  of  the  Kans  chiefs  have  said  they  will  pursue  the  voyage 
Uith  me  agreeably  to  my  orders ;  I  do  not  yet  know  whether  they 
liill  descend  the  Arkansaw  with  lieut.  Wilkinson,  or  continue  on  to 


r       lavs   but  tl\e 
a   ,       ^  .^g  savages  HRed  river  with  me,  but  they  have  their  own  selection. 


,  agreeably  to  the  or 

.ttd  on  the  ground, 
IpleadmycHCUsetor 


It^t, 


TV!.  P»»^'  ^'^ 


.jl^H'-' 

,-l     ^3* 

fi  •-''•'' 

'  ^r^V^ 

,^^<\ 

.:  ^  lo 

'"'' ' 

,il.,i'. 

The  general  will  no  doubt  be  struck  with  some  surprize,  to 
itrceive  that  so  large  a  party  of  Spanish  troops  have  been  so  lately 
lour  territory ;  no  doubt  at  first  you  would  conclude  that  it  must 
live  been  militia ;  but  when  informed  that  their  infantry  was  armed 
kith  muskets  and  bayonets,  and  had  drums ;  that  the  men  wore  long 
pustaches  and  whiskers,  which  almost  covered  the  whole  of  their 
ces ;  their  cavalry  armed  with  swords  and  pistols,  and  that  regular 
juards  and  patroles  were  kept  by  horse  and  foot,  you  may  probably 
Age  your  opinion. 

The  route  by  which  they  came,  and  returned,    was  by  no 
|eans  the  direct  one  from  Santa  Fe,  and  why  they  should  have 
lick  so  low  down  as  the  Grand  Saline,  unless  they  had  an  idea  of 
liking  at  the  village  of  the  Grand  Pest :  or  conceived  the  Saline 
[their  territory,  I  cannot  imagine. 
On  our  arrival  here,  we  were  received  with  great  pomp  and 
emony,  by  about  300  men  on  horseback,  and  with  great  apparent 
adship  by  the  chief.    The  Osage  (one  chief  and  four  warriors) 


i 


4»^ 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  II. 


J  •*■    .  V 


were  presented  with  eight  horses,  the  Kans  who  arrived  two  days 
after,  were  also  presented  with  horses.  The  day  after,  we  assembled 
the  four  principal  chiefs  to  dine,  after  which  I  presented  the  prin- 
cipal, with  a  doubled  barrel'd  gun,  gorget,  and  other  articles,  (this 
man  wore  the  grand  Spanish  inedalj  and  to  the  second  the  small 
medal  you  furnished  me,  with  other  articles  ;  and  to  each  of  the 
others  a  gorget  in  their  turn.  Those  presents  I  conceived  would 
have  a  good  effect,  both  as  to  attaching  them  to  our  government, 
and  in  our  immediate  intercourse. 

At  the  council  which  was  held  a  day  or  two  afterwards,  I  pre. 
sented  them  with  merchandize  (which  at  this  place  should  be  valued 
at  S250)  and  after  explaining  their  relative  situation  as  to  the  Span« 
ish  and  American  governments,  I  asked  on  my  part,  tf  tney  would 
easiat  ua  xvith  a  few  /loraea,  a  Tetau  prisoner  who  aftoke  Pawnet^  to 
aerve  aa  an  interpreter^  an  exchange  of  colors  ;  and  fihaUy^  for  aomt 
of  their  chiefs  to  accomfiany  ua,  to  be  aent  to   Waahington.    This  ex. 
change  of  the  colors  was  the  only  request  granted  at  the  time ;  and 
for  paiticular  reasons  (which  lieut.  Wilkinson  related)  I  thought 
proper  to  return  them  to  the  chief;  and  after  spending  two  or  three 
anxious  days,  we  were  given  to  understand,  that  our  requests  couldnot 
be  complied  with  in  the  other  points,  and  were  again  strongly  urged 
by  the  head  chief,  to  return  the  way  we  came,  and  not  prosecute 
our  voyage  any  further ;  this  brought  on  an  explanation  as  to  our 
views  towards  tlie  Spanish  government ;  in  which  the  chief  declar- 
ed, that  it  was  the  intention  of  the  Spanish  troops  to  have  proceeded 
further  towards  the  Mississippi,  but,  that  he  objectied  to  it,  and  thej 
listened  to  him  and  returned ;  he  therefore  hoped  we  would  be 
equally  reasonable  ;  but  finding  I  still  determined  on  proceeding,  k\ 
told  me  in  plain  terms  (if  the  interpreter  erred  not)  that  it  was  tl 
will  of  the  Sfianiarda  we  should  not  firoceed  ;  which  not  anawering^ 
he  painted  innumerable  difficulties  which  he  said  lay  in  the  way 
but  finding  all  his  arguments  had  no  effect,  he  said,  <<  It  was  a  pity/H  to  tl^ 
and  was  silent.  |  man] 

This  day  I  sent  out  several  of  my  party  to  purchase  horses,  btil 
know  not  yet  how  we  shall  succeed,  as  the  Kans  have  intimated  aLcomt 
idea,  that  the  chief  will  prohibit  his  people  from  trading  with  us.  I  the 
K  The  Pawnees  and  the  Tetaus  are  at  war ;  the  latter  killed  six (■  was 
the  former  in  August  last,  consequently  the  effecting  any  comniunlthe 
'    '.ion  with  the  Tetaus  by  means  of  this  nation  is  imfrassible.        (be  ubl 

If  God  permits,  we  shall  march  from  here  in  a  few  days, 
at  the  Arkansijiw  I  shall  remain,  until  I  build  two  small  canoes  fl 


f:'ii\. 


;»'.  i  t-'Mi    y 


■n  r 


^if:').  Slli   I'.i    «,^.-TU 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  II. 


49 


arrived  two  days 
er,  we  assembled 
resented  the  pvin- 
ther  articles,  (this 
second  the  small 
ind  to  each  of  the 
1  conceived  would 
o  our  government, 

>  afterwards,  I  pre- 
ice  should  be  valued 
BtionastotheSpan. 
rpart.  if  tney  ivould 
^hoMfioke  Paivnety  to 
and  finally,  for '^mt 

Washington.    The  ex- 
ued  at  the  time;  and 

,„  related)  1  thought 
spending  two  or  three 
our  requests  couldnot 
e  again  strongly  urged 
(ne,  and  not  prosecute 
explanaticnastoout 
,hich  the  chief  dechr. 
3ops  to  have  proceeded 
[objectiedtoit,  andlheyl 
e  hoped  we  would  bel 
Vincd  on  proceeding,  htl 
ed  not)  that  it  was  the^ 
,  >fhich  not  amviemil 
»e  said  lay  in  the  way  J 
^eaaid,  ^^Itwasapityl 

to  purchase  horses,  b«l 

kans  have  intimated  a 
from  trading  with  «s.  I 
r;  the  latter  killed  8W( 
I  effecting  any  comnuin 

Ion  is  impossible, 
here  in  a  few  days,' 
lud  two  stnall  canoes 


Ueut.  W.  (whose  party  will  consist  of  Ballenger  and  two  or  three 
men,  with  three  Osage.)  Those  canoes  will  be  easily  managed, 
and  in  case  of  accident  to  one,  the  other  will  still  be  sufficient  to 
transport  their  baggage. 

I  am  informed,  that  in  a  few  days  he  will  meet  French  hunters, 
and  probably  arrive  at  the  village  of  the  Grand  Peat  in  a  fortnight ; 
and  as  all  the  Osage  nation  are  apprized  of  his  descent,  I  conceive 
he  will  meet  with  no  insurmountable  difficulties.*  The  Tetaus  are 
at  open  war  with  the  Spaniards,  so  that  could  we  once  obtain  an  in- 
troduction, I  conceive  we  should  meet  with  a  favorable  reception. 
Vet  how  it  is  to  be  brr\:ght  about,  I  am  much  at  a  loss  to  deter- 
mine, but  knowing  that,  at  tliis  crisia  of  affai^Si  an  intimate  connec- 
tion with  that  nation,  might  be  extremely  serviceable  to  my  country^ 
I  shall  proceed  to  find  them  ;  in  hopes  to  Bnd  some  means  through 
the  French,  Osage,  and  Pawnee  languages,  of  making  ourselves 
understood. 

Any  number  of  men  (who  may  reasonably  be  calculated  on) 
would  find  no  difficulty  in  marcliing  the  route  we  came  with  bag' 
(rage  waggons,  field  artillery,  and  all  the  usual  appendages  of  a 
small  army  ;  and  if  all  the  route  to  Santa  Fe  should  be  of  the  same 
description  in  case  of  war,  I  would  pledge  my  life  (and  what  is 
intinitely  dearer*  my  honor)  for  the  successful  march  of  a  reasona- 
ble Ixidy  of  troops,  into  tlie  province  of  New  Mexico. 

I  find  the  savages  of  this  country  less  brave  ;  but  possessing 
much  more  duplicity,  and  by  far  a  greater  propensity  to  lying  and 
stealing,  than  those  I  had  to  pass  through  in  my  last  voyage. 

I  am  extremely  doubtful  if  any  chief  of  those  nations,  can  be  in- 
duced to  prosecute  the  voyage  with  us,  as  their  dread  of  the  Te- 
taus, and  the  objections  of  the  Pawnees,  seems  to  outweigh  every 
argument,  and  inducement  to  the  contrary. 

3d  Oc^oA^r— The  Pawnee  chief  has  induced  the  Kans  to  return 
to  their  villages,  by  giving  them  a  gun  and  promising  horses,  with 
I  many  frightful  pictures  drawn  if  they  proceeded. 

The  Osages  lent  me  five  horses,  which  their  people  who  ac- 

Icompanied  us  were  to  have  led  back,  but  receiving  fresh  ones  from 

the  Pawnees,  they  would  not  be  troubled  with  them.     In  fact,  it 

was  a  fortunate  circumstance,  as  four  of  the  horses  I  obtained  of 

Ithe  Osage,  have  such  bad  backs,  they  cannot  proceed,  and  we  will 

|be  obliged  to  leave  them  ;  and  not  purchasing  here  with  facility^  I 


li^l 


■Jl'  ■ 

'f 

•;Ki 

Ml. 

■■;' 

■'1:   . 

This  wa»  crroneoui,  but  it  was  my  impression  at  the  time« 


sn 


APPE^iDlX  to  PART  II. 


i!l 

fc'^^n 

Pli  '^ 

I^H^ttB    *>■ 

[  f '  f   ^» 

lift' 

Hi 

>• 

^«l 

? 

I  ' 

1'^ 

y 

would  huva  been  obliged  to  have  sacrificed  some  of  our  baggage. 
I  therefore  sent  them  a  certificate  for  each  horse,  on  the  Indian 
agent  below,  which  I  hope  the  general  will  order  him  to  discharge* 
I  know  the  general's  goodness  will  excuse  this  scrawl,  as  he 
is  well  acquainted  with  the  situation  it  must  be  written  in,  uid  at  the 
same  time,  believe  me  to  be  his  sincere  friend  and 
Most  obedient 

Humble  servant, 

(Signed)  Z.  M.  Pike,  Lt. 

GeneratJ,  Wilkinson. 


[  No.   15.  ] 

Arkanmtv,  24>th  Oct.   1806.     Latitude  S7*  44'  9^'  A*. 
Deau  General, 

OUR  party  arrived  here  on  the  15th  inst.  myself  and  Doctor 
Robinson  on  the  i9th,  we  having  been  out  to  seek  the  trace  of  the 
Spanish  troops  missed  the  party,  ana  were  not  able  to  join  them 
until  the  4th  day. 

The  river  being  very  regular,  lieut.  Wilkinson  had  calculated 
to  proceed  on  the  day  following,  on  the  most  direct  route  for  the 
Red  river,  but  shortly  after  my  joining,  a  considerable  rain  fell  and 
raised  the  river,  and  we  have  been  ever  since  preparing  wooden  and 
skin  canoes,  for  that  gentleman  and  party  to  descend  in. 

The  river  is  between  three  and  four  hundred  yards  in  width ;  I 
generally  flat  low  banks,  not  more  than  two  or  three  feet  high,  and 
the  bed  a  sand  bank  from  one  side  to  the  other. 

The  want  of  water  will  present  the  greatest  obstacle  to  the  pro- 1 
gress  of  the  party  who  descend  the  Arkansaw,  as  tiiey  have  no  cause 
to  fear  a  scarcity  of  provision,  having  some  bushels  of  corn  on  hand, 
and  at  their  option  to  take  as  much  dried  meat  as  they  think  I 
proper,  hundreds  of  pounds  of  which  are  lying  on  scaffolds  at  ourl 
4Eamp ;  and  they  are  likewise  accompanied  by  the  choice  of  our| 
hunters. 

Under  those  circumstances,  and  those  stated  in  my  letter  fronl 
the  Pawnees,  I  can  assert  with  confidence,  there  are  no  obstacles  l| 
should  hesitate  to  encounter,  although   those  inseparable  fromi 
voyage  of  several  hundred  leagues  through  a  wilderness  inhabite 


f 


r  II. 

ime  of  our  baggage, 
orsei  on  the  Indian 
er  him  to  discharge* 
le  this  scrawl,  as  he 
written  in,  md  at  the 
and 


A^PEIVDIX  TO  PART  H. 


.  M.  PiKBf  Lt. 


onlybysavages,  may  appear  of  th-  ** 

unaccustomed  to  such  eZrpriLl      ^""'''''  "^^^^"d*  ^  minds 

""■I  came.  wUh  W„,  .  „„  " '"  '  f '    Lieut.  Wilkinson  h„  copied 

*e»  connexion,,  «„d  general  direc.  „„  r' k"^  ""^l '"''«''  «>  "he,, 
"*  '.have  myself  spared  no  iMf„.  •  considerable  accuracy 

-.»  fr„™  .^e  sa-vagesTnrZr""""""^-  ""WninJS 

S;  """1  »e  find  .he  head  of  " ,;  2^  """«  ''='''  ">ore  .o  he 
•^od 'onae  time,  after  ,v|,icir„t^.  """••  *'""■"'  """^X  be  de! 
'■■".I  at  Natchitoches.  '  "°">'»e  ^ball  cause  a  halt  „„t,|  ^ 

I  speak  in  all  those  eases  i„  .i         . 
'«;".he  compass  of  human  exeri""""""  ""o^'  "•  »»ftra, 
'«  I  pretend  no.  ,„  surmoul  il„       f',""  """""^  "■»  power 
5«»eral  would  pa.,o„  mrit^i  ^  „T:^;1«^  ™.1  '  -I,  kn'oT  hj 
^  'le  general  ivilj  probablv  L  ^     ^  *°  ^"n*- 

aiuciau.^  .»...  .w -  _  ces  of  the  fvn^.v.-      *^,  "'*°'y  ne  surpr  zed  to  fir,^  »i    .  . 

ashelsof  corn  on  ha„d,|hrk)  and  the  a™^  ^^  ""  P'^-med  by  cantlTn  ,  ""'™ 
d  meat  as  they  thinkf «s,  ,;."•,  t  Z  "? "°'"  "•*  *>-  ">4  iS  '"'"?  """ 
i„g  on  scaffolds  a.  ou,|u„ts.  ""'"'^'"«  «"  «>«  most  rigid    oti      """'''"'- 

ibyth.  choice  or  oJ     I  canno,  ye,  say  if  j  ,fc  ,,  °  ""'To  my  ac- 

,ta.eainmy.et.e.f J;rrr,:t:;^^^^^  "~™tr;fj:^'*;"'  "- 

there  ..  no  „bstac,e,|y  dollars.    Sho^url^^re"?;""  T™^=  ''-e- Cn'i 

.se  .naeparable  from:    *  a  company,  ,  hope  the  re"!r!l       ,"' '"''^"""'«  """ored  me 

.wUder„es..„hab.t.    ,  and  have  my  command 'Zi^  7"  """""  "•-  Promise! 

"'""^  '--'"^ertyof  so,ician;r.r n-n:  Z/"'"'  ^ 

»  "'**'^  "»ey  may  ob- 


ude  S7»  44'  9"  M 

\t.  myself  and  Doctor 
seek  the  trace  of  the 
lot   able  to  join  them 

Ikinson  had  calculated 
;  direct  route  for  the 
siderable  rsun  fell  and 


.''      I 


.-Ip 


I'  '  1 


5a 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  II. 


-  i  -M 

4'W 

■mA 

1 

■:^i  3  _i.  -t  *  '  f^^'^ 

1 

-  IV- "^ii 

a  T^a* 

m 

II 

* 

tain  the  lam^,  or  similar  rewards,  to  those  who  accompanied  capt. 
Lewis,  as  I  will  make  bold  to  sayy  that  they  have  in  the  two  voyb 
ages,  incurred  as  great  dangers,  and  went  through  as  many  hard- 
ships. 

I  am,  dear  general, 

Your  ever  attached  friend. 
And  obedient  servant, 
(Signed)  Z.  M.  Pike. 

GeneralJ.  Wilkinaon. 

N.  B.  Doctor  Robinson  presents  his  respectful  compliments, 
and  is  sanguine  m  the  success  of  our  expedition. 


j(      . 
f'l 


s„"*»*^{;. 


tol 

of 


•  ••'Jo  "^MU  vyai  3uM  f^oiMu'iUn.  ^-a. 


mh- 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  II. 


53 


.?!!■ 


ampanied  capt. 
in  the  two  voy- 
as  many  hard- 


;:.  M.  P»»*- 


tfui  compVimenls, 


H 

H 

o 

n 

H 

H 

>• 

> 

f 

d 

** 

ca 

4^ 


o> 


03 

4^ 


O 

O 
O 


to 


1^ 

o 


> 
a: 

M 


pi 


o 

c/: 


O 

W 

I 

S 


ko        M 


-I 

o 
o 


*o 
to 


Ok 

(ft 


o       — 
O         M 

o      o 


(ft 

o 
o 


to 

09 


(ft 

O 

o 


to 
o 

o 


O        M 


u 


C3 


00 

to 

o 
o 


Oi  <—  <^ 

M  Oi  o 

(O  o^  ^ 

C3  (ft  to 


JVo.  of  Warriora. 


Ab.  o/"  Women. 


Ab.  o/"  Children. 


J^o.  of  Villages. 


Probab'e  JVo.  of  Souls. 


o      — 
to       M 


»0  (ft 

o       ~ 


to 

o 


o 
o 


(ft 

o 


to 

o 

o 


?3 

O 

> 

H 
C 

r 
> 

H 

O 
2: 


Ab.  o/"  Lodges  of  the  Roving 
Bands. 


JVo.  of  Fire  Arms, 


!!■'      :'||';'' 


wm 


i^ 


B.> 


^. 


!    -. 


.-vfeVuO  "^e  vofv 


o>        lO       o 

!2    8  ,§• 


•'"''^'>^">'''^    V;^ '"^ '^■-    I 


i^ 


■1       a& 

1  iS< 

i  O 

o 


■  ■Ti  »»*«**■  ■'■■<^»'»fil 


iV<V 


^ft«rt)s.,-'' 


■j''("*— '■••■*'= 


(« 


:C  "X 


'  6     V'     'w 


-4>       .  C 


;5-     o''  o" 


. -^  •*-«  f-.tf^f**^- 


'  I  I 

i'  'i 


APPENDIX  TO  PART 


in. 


''*fI 


BETWEEN   THE   PAC,„c    OCEAN      „  ""    ""'"•'■'■.    ANO 

hhl,e,  between  U'SO/ands'^^N  '  ^7'  °'  G-^lahxa™ 
f  onguude, and i, bounded wu.h.nd^.T"'' "»''  '°*°'»'i  'o'" 
K  province  of  Biscay  and  S  nalo"  Te  '    t'""'''  ^-"""h 

h' of  Valladolid,  and  is  3so  mi  e  t  f    T"""'"  ^-^S' ^.by 

haeed  at  100,000.    Iti.„neof,h.  .'"  P»P"'aiion  may  be 

Uation.  in  .he  vice  royX  a„d  r"  '"'""'•"  '•">  '•«'>  ad! 
h  great  „ver  de  Santego  '^Mc'  J""'"  '"'•"  '«'  ">  «« 
fWdeCbapala.    Gna^alaxJ^  J"''.7,»  "■««  of  i,,  „,„; 

logman  family  in  uj,,  and  i^st  T^I  ""  ""«' by  one  o? 
h->  Compoatela  to  tha  pZT   I  I  T  *""^'^  «»  remov- 
Nalaxara,  «WcIi  incIuderoUVl?"  T  °' ''''=  """""ce 
^atecas.    The  population  „f  "It"  :»"'' ''f  •''■■■i»i«raH„n 
[W,  and  stands  in  N.  latitude  2o«  5^  '«>'  may  be  estimated  at 


3  APPENDIX  TO  PART  III. 

The  administration  of  Valladolid  lies  between  22*  10',  and  18' 
12'  N.  longitude,  and  102°  and  105°  W.  longitude,  and  is  bounded 
south  by  the  South  sea,  and  part  of  Mexico,  east  and  north  east  by  the 
latter,  and  north  by  that  of  Guanaxuato.  Its  greatest  length  from 
north  east  to  south  west  is  230  miles,  and  its  greatest  width  east  ami 
west  190  miles.  Its  population  may  be  estimated  at  360,000.  Jii 
capital  of  the  same  name,  is  situated  in  about  the  20°  N.  latitude, 
103°  25"  W.  longitude.    Population  unknown. 

The  administration  of  Mexico  lies  between  2 1°  30',  and  1 6°  3(/ 
N.Hatitude,  99°  and  105°  W.  longitude,  and  is  bounded  south  by  the 
South  Sea  ;  east  by  the  governments  of  La  Puebla  and  La  Vera 
Cruz ;  north  by  that  of  St.  Louis,  and  west  by  Valladolid  and  Gua- 
naxuato.    Its  greatest  length  north  and  south,  may  be  360  miles, 
and  its  greatest  width,  which  is  on  the  Western  Ocean,  is  200  miles, 
Its  population  may  be  estimated  at  1,500,000  souls.     The  capital  of] 
this  administration  and  of  the  whole  kingdom,  is  Mexico  ;  a  parti- 
cular description  of  which  is  deemed  unnecessary.    From  every  in- 
formation  I  could  obtain  from  persons  who  had  resided  in  it  fciv 
years,  it  does  not  contain  more  than  200,000  inhabitants.    Its  bein(j 
the  residence  of  the  vice  roy,  whose  court  is  incvt  splendid  thanj 
that  of  Madrid  ;  its  central  position  as  to  the  ports  of  Acapulco  and] 
Vera  Cruz,  together  with  the  rich  and  luxuriant  vale  which  suil 
rounds  it,  will  whenever  the  Spanish  Americans  burst  the  presentj 
bonds  of  slavery  in  which  they  arc  bound,  give  to  Mexico  all  thosa 
advantages  which  great  wealth,  a  largp  population,  and  a  commandj 
ing  situation  concentrate  and  assuredly  make  it  one  of  the  greatesf 
cities  in  the  world.     In  point  of  population,  it  is  now  in  the  seconij 
rank,  and  in  beauty,  riches,  magnificence,  and  splendor  in  the  h 

The  administration  of  Oxaca  lies  between  18°  and  16°  N.  lalil 
tude,  98°  and  1 12°  VV.  longitude,  and  is  bounded  south  by  the  SoutJ 
Sea,  west  by  the  government  of  La  Puebla,  north  by  Mexico  and  ] 
Vera  Cruz,  and  east  by  the  province  of  Gualamalia.  Its  gieatel 
length  east  ard  west  230  miles,  and  its  width  north  and  south  llf 
miles.  Its  population  may  be  estimated  at  520,000  souls.  Its  ca|j 
tal  is  Oxaca  in  17°  30'  N.  latitude,  99°  25*  W.  longitude. 

The  administration  of  Vera  Cruz  lies  between  17°  and  22"" 
latitude  and  98°  and  10!-'  W.  longitude,  and  is  bounded  north 
east  by  the  gulf  of  Mexico,  south  by  Oxaca,  west  by  Puebla 
Mexico.    Its  greatest  length  N.  W.  and  S.  E.  is  430  miles, . 
its  width  E.  and  W.  not  more  than  60*  miles.    Its  population 
be  estimated  at  220,000.    Its  capital  U  Vera  Cru^  which  is 
sole  port  of  entry  for  all  the  kingdom  on  the  Atlantic  oceanJ 


APPENDIX  TO  PAR  r  III. 


22*  10',  &r\i\  18' 
,  and  is  bounded 
\  norU^  east  by  ilic 
atest  lengtb  fvom 
test\vKUbeasiam\ 
d  at  360,000.    lu 
t^e  SO''  N.  laututk', 

2i0  3(/,and\6"'3(y 

oundecl  south  by  the 

aebla  and  La  Vera 
VaUadoUdandGud- 

,  „,ay  be  360  niiles. 
Ocean,"  200  nues, 
;oul8.    The  capital  of 
is  Mexico;  aparu- 
Urv.    From  every  m. 
td  resided  in  it  fov 

is  .V.CVC  splendid  th 

.ports  of  Acap«;c°a.a 
;Untvale^vhvch»u, 
kans  burst  the  present 
iveto  Mexico  all  the. 
lation,andacoTnma. 
eitoneofthegreaie 
'itisno^vintheseco 


that  of  Acapulco  is  on  the  Western.  Its  population  may  be  esti- 
mated at  30,000  souls,  and  is  in  19°  10*  N.  latitude  and  98°  SC  W. 
longitude.  This  city  was  taken  and  sacked  by  the  £n(;liah  on  the 
I7th  May,  1683,  since  which  the  w  ks  for  its  defence  have  been 
made  so  very  strong,  as  almost  to  oid  defiance  to  an  attack  from 
the  sea. 

The  adnninistration  de  la  Puebia  lies  between  20°  and  16°  N« 
lautude  and  100°  and  102°  W.  longitude,  and  is  bounded  south  by 
the  South  sea,  east  by  Oxaca  and  Vera  Cruz,  north  and  west  by 
Mexico,  and  is  near  300  miles  in  its  greatest  length  from  north  to 
south,  and  120  in  its  greatest  width  fi-um  east  to  west  Its  popula- 
tion may  be  estimated  at  800,000  souls.  Its  capital  is  the  city  of  La 
Puebia,  estimated  at  80,000  souls,  which  is  in  19°  12'  N.  latitude, 
100°  50'  W.  longitude. 

The  administration  of  Guanaxuato  lies  between  21°  30' and 
22°  30'  N.  latitude  and  103°  and  105°  W.  longitude,  and  is  bounded 
south  by  Valladolid,  east  by  Mexico,  north  by  St.  Louis  Zacataca, 
land  west  by  Guadalaxara.  Its  greatest  extent,  from  north  to  south, 
is  75  miles,  and  from  east  to  west  85.  Its  population  may  be  esti- 
mated at  500,000  souls.  Its  capital  city  is  Guaiiaxuato,  in  latitude 
In'  N.  longitude  103°  W. 

The  administration  of  Zacataca  lies  between  21°  30^  and  34° 
|i2'  N.  latitude  and  103°  and  105°  30'  W.  longitude,  and  is  bounded 
Borth  by  the  internal  province  of  Biscay,  east  by  St.  Louis,  west  by 
iuadalaxara  and  south  by  Guanaxuato.  Its  greatest  length  is  2 10 
liles,  north  and  south,  and  its  greatest  width  is  145  miles,  from  east 
west.  Its  population  may  be  estimated  at  250,2^0  souls.  The 
ipital,  Zacataca,  stands  in  23°  N.  latitude  and  104°  W.  longitude. 
The  administration  of  St.  Louis  lies  between  21°  20' and  28° 


•en  18  *'r*.  Y^he  Sou^N.  latitude  and  99°  and  102°  W.  longitude,  and  includes  Texas 
nded  ^°"  ^.^^^  ^^^  Ad  St.  Ander  in  this  dimension,  and  is  bounded  north  by  New  Leon, 
north  by  ^^  gveattlst  by  the  province  of  St.  Ander,  south  by  Guanaxuato  and  Mexi- 

ualama     •     ^  ^^^^^^^  A  and  west  by  Zacataca.    Its  greatHt  length  from  north  to  south  is 
''"*^  "°*  ,and  its  width  from  east  to  west  is  170  miles.    Its  population 

ly  be  estimated  at  3 1 1,500  souls.  Its  capital,  St.  Louis  de  Potosi 
population  of  which  is  60,000 :  it  stands  in  32°  N.  latitude,  103* 
longitude,  and  was  founded  in  1568. 

The  province  of  Nuevo  San  Ander  is  bounded  north  by  the  pro- 
e  of  Texas,  west  by  Nuevo  Leon  and  Cogquillo,  south  by  St* 
is,  and  east  by  the  Atlantic  ocean,  and  from  north  to  south  is 
t  500  miles  in  length,  but  from  east  to  west  not  more  than  150> 
opulation  may  be  estimated  at  3S,0Q0  souls.    The  capital,  New 


lidth  novt 
520,000  souls.  ltswi| 

|W.  longitude, 
.between  17"  and 22 

,d  is  bounded  non 
;aca,>vest  by  Pueblo 
IS   E   is  430  mdes)' 

ti;s."iWpopui-»°^!;, 

reva  Cru^  v^hich  is ' 
the  Atlantic  ocew 


^A    'k 


m  ■ 


I'M   i 


^Ih    I 


4  '  APPENDIX  TO  PART  III. 

San  Ander,  is  on  the  river  of  that  namei  about  40  miles  from  the 
sea,  in  23"  45'  N.  latitude  and  101"  VV.  longitude. 

The  kingdom  of  New  Leon  is  bounded  east  by  New  San  An- 
der, north  by  Cogquilla,  west  by  Biscay,  and  south  by  St.  Louis  and 
Zncataca;  its  greatest  length  north  and  south  is  250  miles,  width 
east  and  west  luo  miles.  Its  population  may  be  estimated  at  30,000 
souls.  Its  capital,  Mont  £1  Rey,  is  situated  on  the  head  waters  of 
Tiger  river,  which  discharges  itself  into  the  gulf  of  Mexico.  The 
city  of  Mont  El  Key  contains  about  1 1,000  souls,  and  is  the  seat  of 
the  bishop,  Don  Dio  Premiro,  who  visited  the  port  of  Nachitoches 
when  commanded  by  captain  Turner,  of  the  2d  United  States  regi- 
mcnt  of  infantry.  His  episcopal  jurisdiction  extends  over  Nuevo 
San  Ander,  New  Leon,  Cogquilla  and  Texas,  and  his  salary  is  equal 
to  S  100,000  per  annum.  Mont  El  Rey  is  situated  in  36°  N.  latitude 
and  102"  \V.  longitude.  There  are  many  and  rich  mines  near  the 
city  of  Mont  El  Rey,  from  whence,  I  am  informed,  there  are  taken, 
to  be  coined,  100  mule-loads  of  bullion  in  silver  and  gold  monthly, 
which  may  be  presumed  to  be  not  more  than  the  three-fifths  of 
what  is  taken  from  the  mines,  as  there  are  many  persons  who  prefer 
never  getting  their  metal  coined,  as  then  it  is  not  so  easily  ascer* 
tained  what  they  are  worth,  which  is  an  all-important  secret  in  a  des 
potic  government. 

The  foregoing  nine  administrations  or  intendenciaSf  the  king< 
dom  of  Leon,  and  the  province  of  Nuevo  San  Ander  are  included 
in  the  two  audiences  of  Guadalaxara  and  Mexico,  and  form,  as 
believe,  the  whole  political  government  of  the  vice-roy  of  Mexico 
but  I  am  I  >t  positive  whether  his  jurisdiction  does  not  include  thi 
audience  of  Guatimalia,  which  lies  to  the  south,  and  includes  thi 
province  of  that  name,  that  of  Chiapa,  Yucatan,  Veraqua,  Cost! 
Rica  and  Honduras.     An  audience  is  the  high  court  of  appeals  ii 
vrhich  the  vicc-roy  presides  and  has  two  votes :  it  is  intended  as 
check  on  his  power  and  authority. 

The  administrations  are  governed  by  intendants,  who  are  ol 
fleers  of  high  rank,  and  always  Europeans.     The  longitude  given 
from  the  meridian  of  Paris. 

In  the  general  view  of  New  Spain,  I  shall  take  some  notice 
the  manners,  customs,  political  force.  Sec.  of  the  vice-royalty ;  bi 
as  I  do  not  pretend  to  be  correctly  informed  as  to  thatqua'ter  ofti 
kingdom,  and  there  have  been  so  many  persons  who  h.ive  givi 
statements  on  those  heads,  I  siiall  confine  my  observations  principi 
to  the  internal  provinces  through  which  I  passed,  and  on  whiclthe  h 
inadp  my  observations.  »  |'.vindi 


prod 
that 
vince 
tracti 

of  tal 
ingsJ 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  II  I. 


miles  from  the 

by  New  San  An- 
by  St.  Louis  and 
250  miles,  width 
stimatcd  at  30,000 
,c  head  waters  of 
of  Mexico.    The 
J,  and  is  the  seat  ol 
,ortof  Nachitoche* 

United  States  rcgi- 
■xtendsoverNuevo 

d  his  salary  is  equal 
■din  36°  N. latitude 
rich  mines  near  the 

ned,  there  are  taken, 
er  and  gold  monthly, 
,„  the  three-fifths  of 
,y  persons  who  prefer! 

is  not  so  easily  ascw. 
,ortantsecretinade5. 

ntendenciasjthe  kingj 

m  Ander  arc  includedl 

lexico,  and  form,Ml| 

>e  vice-roy  of  Mexico] 

pn  does  not  include  thJ 

south,  and  includes  thj 

icatan,  Veraqua,  Cosil 

iKh  court  of  appeals  i4 

;,,  it  is  intended  asj 

|intendants,whoareoi 
The  longitude  givenj 

Lll  take  some  notice 
\i  the  vice-royalty ;  b- 
^astothatqua-teroftl 

Lrsons  who  huve  %w 
,  observations  principa 

passed,  and  on  whicl 


INTERNAL  PROVINCES. 

New  Mexico  lies  between  30°  SO'  and  44"  N.  latitude  and 
104  and  108**  W.  longitude,  and  is  the  most  northern  province  of 
tiie  kingdom  of  New  Spain ;  it  extends  north-west  into  an  undefined 
boundary,  is  bounded  north  and  east  by  Louisiana,  south  by  Biscay 
and  Cogquilla,  and  west  by  Senora  and  California.  Its  length  is  un- 
known, its  breadth  may  be  600  miles,  but  the  inhabited  part  is  not 
more  than  400  miles  in  length  and  50  in  breadth,  lying  along  the 
river  del  Norte,  from  the  37°  to  the  31«  SO'  N.  latitude ;  but  in  this 
space  there  is  a  desert  of  more  than  250  miles. 

^ir  and  Ciimatc—^No  persons  accustomed  to  reside  in  the  tem- 
perate climate  of  36  and  37  degrees  of  north  latitude  in  the  United 
States  can  form  any  idea  of  the  piercing  cold  which  you  experience 
in  that  parallel  in  New  Mexico ;  but  the  air  is  serene  and  unaccom- 
panied by  damps  or  fogs,  as  it  rains  but  once  a  year,  and  some  years 
not  at  all.  It  is  a  mountainous  country.  The  grand  dividing  ridgea 
which  separate  the  waters  of  the  rio  del  Norte  from  those  of  Cali- 
fornia border  it  on  th'-  .ne  of  its  western  limits,  and  are  covered,  in 
some  places,  with  eternal  snows,  which  give  a  keenness  to  the  air 
that  could  n':  t  be  calculated  upon  nor  expected  in  a  temperate 
zone. 

Timber  and  Plains — The  cotton  tree  is  the  only  tree  of  this 
province,  except  some  scrubby  pines  and  cedars  at  the  foot  of  the 
mountains.  The  former  borders  the  banks  of  the  rio  del  Norte 
and  its  tributary  streams.  All  the  rest  of  the  country  presents  to 
the  eye  a  barren  wild  of  poor  land,  scarcely  to  be  improved  by  cul- 
ture, and  appears  to  be  only  capable  of  producing  sufficient  subsist- 
ence for  those  animals  which  live  on  succulent  plants  and  herbage. 

MSnea^  Mineralsy  and  Fossils. — There  are  no  mines  known  in 
the  province,  except  one  of  copper  situated  in  a  mountain  on  the 
west  side  of  the  rio  del  Norte,  in  latitude  ZAP  N.  It  is  worked  and 
produces  20,000  mule-loads  of  copper  annually.  It  also  furnishes 
that  article  for  the  manufactories  of  nearly  all  the  internal  pro- 
vinces. It  contains  gold ;  but  not  quite  sufficient  to  pay  for  its  ex- 
traction ;  consequently  it  has  not  been  pursued. 

There  is,  near  Santa  Fe,  in  some  of  the  mountains,  a  stratum 
of  talc,  which  is  so  large  and  flexible  as  to  render  it  capable  of  be- 
ing subdivided  into  thin  flakes,  of  which  the  greater  proportion  of 
jthe  houses  in  Santa  Fe,  and  all  the  villages  to  the  north,  have  their 
•vindow-lights  made. 


r 


APPEiNDIX  TO  PART  III. 


'■  'if 


N 


rS"*  'il 


River: — Tl»c  river  del  Norte  takes  its  source  in  tlic  monntains 
(which  jjivc  birth  to  the  head-waters  of  CHlifornia,  the  Plata,  Pierre 
Jaune  of  the  Missouri  and  Arkansaw  of  the  Mississippi)  in  40°  N. 
latitude  and  110"  W.  longitude.  Its  distance  fronn  its  source  to  the 
gulf  of  Mexico  may  be,  by  its  meanders,  estimated  at  3000  miles, 
passing  through  the  provinces  of  New  Mexico,  part  of  Biscay,  Co}^- 
quilla,  and  New  San  Ander,  where  it  falls  into  the  gulf  in  26°  N. 
latitude.  It  cannot,  in  any  part  of  its  course,  be  termed  a  navigable 
stream,  owing  to  the  sand-bars.  In  the  flat  country  and  mountains 
in  the  upper  part,  with  which  its  course  is  interrupted,  small  boats 
might  ascend  as  high  as  the  Presidio  de  rio  Grande  in  Cogquilla,  and 
it  might  be  navigable  for  canoes  in  various  parts  of  its  course.  In 
the  mountains  above  Santa  Fe  it  aifordcd  amply  sufficient  water  for 
canoe  navigation,  and  even  more  than  appeared  to  be  flowing  in  its 
bed  in  the  plains.  This  must  be  attributed  to  numerous  canals  and 
the  dry  sandy  soil  through  which  the  river  courses  and  where  much 
of  the  water  which  flowed  from  the  mountains  must  be  absorbed 
and  lost.  In  the  province  of  New  Mexico  it  is  called  the  Rio  del 
Norte  ;  below  it  is  termed  the  Rio  Grande  ;  but  in  no  instance  did 
I  hear  it  called  the  Rio  Bravo,  as  many  of  our  ancient  maps  desig- 
nate it. 

There  are  also,  in  the  limits  of  this  province,  to  the  west,  the 
rivers  San  Rafael,  San  Xavier,  river  de  los  Dolores,  also  de  los  Ana- 
mas  or  Nabajoa,  all  of  which  join  and  form  the  Great  Rio  Colorado 
of  California.  The  two  first  take  their  sources  in  the  same  moun- 
tains as  the  Rio  del  Norte,  but  on  the  west  side. 

The  river  Colorado,  by  its  meanders,  may  be  about  1000  miles 
in  length,  from  its  sources  to  its  discharge  into  the  head  of  the  gulf 
of  California,  in  the  33d  degree  of  N.  latitude.  It  has  been  repre- 
sented to  me,  by  men  of  information  '.nd  research,  to  be  navigable 
for  square  rigged  vessels  at  least  300  miles  from  the  gulf.  By  this 
river  and  the  Arkansaw  there  could  be  the  best  communication  es- 
tablished be  ween  the  Pacific  and  t^e  Atlantic  oceans.  There  are 
represented  to  be  various,  numerous  and  warlike  nations  of  Indians 
on  its  banks  Throu«;h  the  whole  of  its  course  its  Iwnks  are  entirely 
destitute  of  Timber,  and  indeed  I  was  informed  that  for  300  miles 
there  was  no?:  a  tree  ten  inches  in  diameter.  ^ 

The  river  S.  Buenaventura  empties  into  the  Pacific  ocean  to 
the  nortih  of  California  in  59"  30'  N.  latitude,  and  takes  its  source  in 
the  Sierra  Madre  to  the  north  of  the  Colorado  and  del  Norte. 

The  Rio  Gila  hea*is  opposite  to  the  copper-mines,  and  dis- 


APl'KNDIX  TO  PART  III, 


the  mountains 
e  PUia,  Pierre 
ippi)in40°N. 
9  source  lo  U\c 
ul  2000   wiles, 
of  Biscay,  Cok- 

guU  in26°N. 
mcd  a  navigable 
I  and  roounuvina 
^icd,  small  boals 
inCoRquiiltt'a"'^ 
f  its  coui'sc.    In 
efficient  water  for 
,  be  flowing  in  its 
meroua  canals  and 
I  and  where  much 
,„ust  be  absorbed 
called  the  Rio  del 

in  no  instance  dul 
rtcientmapsdesig- 

ce,  to  the  west,  the 
•es,  also  delos  Ana- 
Great  Rio  Colorado 
in  the  same  moun- 

pe  about  \000  miles 

[the  head  of  the  guU 

It  has  been  repre- 

irch,  to  be  navigable 

\  the  gulf.    By  this 

communication  es- 

oceans.     There  are 

^e  nations  of  Indiaijs 

fits  Iwnks  are  entu-ely 

;d  that  for  300  miles 

Le  Pacific  ocean  to 
.d  takes  its  source  in 

and  del  Norte. 

Iper-mincs,  a^«^  *^'^- 


tharges  itself  into  the  gulf  of  California,  just  bcjcw  the  Colorado, 
in  the  33d  degree  of  N.  latitude. 

The  Rio  Puerto  is  a  brunch  of  the  Rio  del  Norte,  and  comes 
from  the  north  and  joins  that  river  about  100  miles  below  the  Prcsi- 
diu  del  Norte. 

None  of  the  foregoing  streams  present  any  evidences  of  civiliz- 
ation on  their  siu>res  but  the  Rio  del  Norte. 

Lakea.-^-l  hcai'd  of  no  lakes  in  the  province,  except  that  of 
Tampanagos,  the  existence  of  which  I  consider  very  doubtful.  Ii  is 
said  to  commence  (according  to  Father  Escalante)  in  the  40th  deg. 
N.  latitude,  and  to  have  been  explored  tn  tlie  42d  dcg.  in  a  N.  W. 
direction,  where  it  enlarged  its  dimension,  and  the  discoverer 
thought  proper  to  return. 

^nimala. — North  Mexico  produces  deer,  elk,  buffalo,  cabrie, 
llic  gresley,  black  bear,  and  wild  horses. 

Pofiuiation.-—lta  population  is  not  far  short  of  30,000  souls, 
one-twentieth  of  which  may  be  Spaniards  from  Europe  (or  Chape- 
tones),  four-twentieths  Creoles,  five-twentieths  Metifs,and  the  other 
half  civilized  Indians. 

The  capitUl  is  Santa  Fe,  situated  on  a  small  stream  which  emp- 
ties into  the  east  side  of  the  Rio  del  Norte,  at  the  foot  of  the  moun- 
tains which  divide  the  waters  of  that  river  from  the  Arkansaw  and 
Red  river  of  the  Mississippi,  in  36o  N.  latitude  and  109'^  W.  longi- 
tude. It  is  an  oblong  square,  extending  about  one  mile  from  east 
to  west  on  the  banks  of  the  creek.  In  the  centre  is  the  public 
square,  one  side  of  which  forms  the  flank  of  the  soldiers'  square, 
which  is  closed  and  in  some  >J«^ree  defended  by  round  towers  in  the 
angles  which  flank  the  four  curtains  :  another  side  of  the  square  i3 
foruuul  by  the  palace  of  ;.^«ie  governor,  his  guard-houses>  ^c.  The 
third  side  is  occupied  ^/  the  priests  and  their  suit,  and  the  fourth  by 
the  Chapetones  who  reside  in  the  city.  The  houses  arc  generally 
only  one  story  high>  fiat  roofs,  and  have  a  very  mean  appearance  on 
I  th<i  out-side,  but  some  of  them  are  richly  furnished,  especially  with 
I  plate.  .  r. 

The  second  cities  in  the  province  are  Albuquerque  and  Passo 
I  del  Norte.     The  latter  is  the  most  southern  city  of  the  province,  as 
Tons  is  the  most  northern.    Between  the  village  of  Sibilletaand 
I  the  Passo  there  is  a  wilderness  of  near  200  miles. 

Trade  and  Commerce. — New  Mexico  carries  on  a  trade  direct 

[with  Mexico  through   Biscay,  also  with   Senora  and  Sitialoa:  it 

jsends  out  about  30,000  sheep  annually,  tobacco,  dressed  deer  and 

cabrie  skins,  some  fur,  buffalo  robes,  salt,  and  wrought  copper  ves-. 


'^       i\ 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  III. 


L?-  n 


Iff*'* 


sels  of  a  superior  quality.  It  receives  in  return,  from  Biscay  and 
Mexico,  dry  goods,  confectionary,  arms,  iron,  steel,  ammunition, 
and  some  choice  European  wines  and  liquors,  and  from  Senora  and 
Sinaloa,  gold,  silver,  and  cheese.  The  following  articles  sell  as 
stated  (in  this  province),  which  will  shew  the  cheapness  of  provisions 
and  the  extreme  deamess  of  imported  goods : 

Flour  sells,  per  hundred  at  -  -  2  dollars 

Salt,  per  mule-load,        -  -  -  -      5 

Sheep, each,  -  -  -  -  i 

Beeves,  each,      -    '        -  -  -  -      5 

Wine  del  Passo,  per  barrel,  -  -  15 

Horses,  each,     -  -  -  -  -     1 1 

Mules,  each,  -  -  -  -30 

Superfine  cloths,  per  yard,         -  -  -    35 

,   Fine        do.  do.  -  -  -  20 

Linen,  per  yard,  -  -  -  -      4 

and  all  other  dry  goods  in  proportion. 

The  journey  with  loaded  mules  from  Santa  Fe  to  Mexico,  and 
returning  to  Santa  Fe,  takes  five  months.  They  manufacture  rough 
leather,  segars,  a  vast  variety  and  quantity  of  potters'  ware,  cotton, 
some  coarse  woolen  cloths,  and  blankets  of  a  superior  quality.  All 
those  manufactures  are  carried  on  by  the  civilized  Indians,  as  the 
Spaniards  think  it  more  honorable  to  be  agriculturalists  than  me* 
chanics.  The  Indians  likewise  far  exceed  their  conquerors  in  their 
genius  for,  and  execution  of,  all  mechanical  operations. 

New  Mexico  has  the  exclusive  right  of  cultivating  tobacco. 
About  two  miles  above  the  town  of  the  Passo  del  Norte  is  a 
bridge  over  the  river,  where  the  road  passes  to  the  west  side,  at  which 
place  is  a  large  canal,  which  takes  out  an  ample  supply  of  water  for 
the  purpose  of  cultivation,  which  is  here  carried  on  in  as  great  per- 
fection as  at  any  place  that  I  visited  in  the  provinces.  There  is  a  wall 
bordering  the  canal  the  whole  way  on  both  sides,  to  protect  it  from 
the  animals  ;  and  when  it  arrives  at  the  village,  it  is  distributed  in 
such  a  manner  that  each  person  has  his  fields  watered  in  rotation. 
At  this  place  were  as  finely  cultivated-  fields  of  wheat  and  other 
small  grain  as  I  ever  saw.  Nuniccous  vineyards,  from  which  were 
produced  the  finest  wine  ever  drank  in  the  country,  which  was  cele- 1 
braied  through  all  the  provinces,  and  was  the  only  wine  used  on  the 
table  of  the  commanding  general. 

jtfrriculture.—^i'hey  cultivate  corn,  wheat,  rye,  barley,  rice,  to- 
bacco, vines,  and  all  the  common  culinary  plants  cultivated  in  the 
same  latitude  in  the  United  States.    They  are^  however,  a  century 


,  from  Biscay  and 
steel)  ammunition, 
id  from  Senora  and 
ing  articles  sell  as 
pness  of  provisions 

2  dollars 
-      5 

1 
.       5 

15 
.      11 

30 
.     25 

20 
.      4 

I  Fe  to  Mexico,  and 
manufacture  rough 
jtters*  ware,  cotton, 
iperior  quality.  All 
ized  Indians,  as  the 
ulturalists  than  me* 
'  conquerors  in  their 
irations. 

Itivating  tobacco. 
?asso  del  Norte  is  a 
ic  west  side,  at  which 
;  supply  of  water  for 
id  on  in  as  great  per- 
ices.  There  is  a  wall 
;s,  to  protect  it  from 
B,  it  is  distributed  in 
watered  in  rotation. 
i  of  wheat  and  other 
'ds,  from  which  were 
iitry,  which  was  cele- 
jnly  wine  used  on  the 

,  rye,  barley,  rice,  to* 
»nts  cultivated  in  the  [ 
e,  however,  a  century 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  W. 


after  the  French  mode.    Their       ?^  '""  '*"''"  ^"^^  by  the  horJs 
•^'"'nsiJy  made.    DuriL  th.     u  .'""*'  "'^  «tremely  awkward  ^^ 
Spain  Ineversawalle  „?    ^'^^       ''""'  -  --e T^' 
^-« -de  use  of  in  ^Z^:^:^^  f  ^  <^escHpUo„,"J:L: 

riv.  tf  «''^*-On  the  r  ver  St    Pr        '  '^'^'''^^'^^  of  labour. 

"ver  G.Ia,H.hich  heads  near  th.. on        ''''  *  ^''^^  branch  of  u'e 

the  mI  ^'^'''''  ^'^i^^b  are  ascenline^  f?''  """  ''''  ''"'^^^  o{ 

the  Mexicans  on  their  ro.,»^       •  ®^  ^^  ^^^^  been  the  work  nP 

"""''  ^'•"ken  piecM  «f  eanVrLr'""  u  "°  *"""• «  «•"  place 
"Perfec.  as  when  fir«  ^T^  """  """"="  »""  P»»«M  .he  ghzil 
'Aborigines TIia    v  ' 

»  x-t;!  as  Sioux.    The,  Zll      ■  "" '~''  ''»*°'=«  "nd  Tetaui 
'Kak  .he  same  language     ThlTi.T      ""''«'»•'«  and  Utah"  ^; 

I"  .he  same  manner,  and  pursue  ill  1  °''''  '"■°"8'  "™  "'mod 

jn-ey  are,  however,  a  iiuie  ,„„,!    ■•,•""  «™«  "='  ">e  Kyawoys 
Hon  „i,h  ,he  SpUia  t  ,^r„T„m',"i'''  '™™  '»""«  ■"°«"»- 

I    A  battle  was  fouRht  belwp,.„  .i  ""  ""=  '^''a"'- 

«»».  near  ,he  nU.^''otr2"  Tj:  """  "■'  '^«"- '"  September 

Uh  side. but  they  ,.e,.  Z^r^lZL''^'':  '"^  -™^»'«n" 

►  ike  6eW  of  battle.    There  «Z    ■{      '""""''  ^^l"  rWing  out 
«  Utahs  gave  al,  the  I^ZZZuTlT"  ""'"  ™  ''^"^^ 

I '  strong  degree,  the  influence  .iL  s       •  ^f"""^'-    This  shew, 

h-     The  Nanahaws  are  si  ua.';  .t'?'"""  H'™  "'^^  ""^  '"' 
|«  frequently  at  war  wi,h  theSnW    ^      "°"''""«  "f  Santa  Fe. 
hwa-iorsst,™,g.     They   r^ar;,;'!;:;'''  "' ^W"""  '»^^ 
-precedmg  nations.   This  „a,L  '  ",.""  ''™'  ""anneras  the  ' 

■em  bordering  on  Can;   „     "  "U"  T  V  "'  ""- '»  "»  «es        - 


1 1^1 


1 ' 


V^'M   i 


m 


I'  T* 


pi 


*    "'a 


10 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  III. 


'The  AppBches  are  a  nation  of  Indians  who  extend  iVomthe 
black  mountains  in  New  Mexico  to  the  frontiers  of  Cogquilla,  heep> 
ing  the  frontiers  of  three  provinces  in  a  continual  state  of  aLrm, 
and  mailing;  it  necessary  to  employ  nearly  two  thousand  dragoons  to 
escort  the  caravans,  protect  the  villages,  and  revenge  the  various 
attacks  they  are  continually  making  on  the  subjects  of  his  Catholic 
majesty.  This  nation  formerly  extended  from  the  entrance  of  the 
Rio  Grande  to  the  gulf  of  California,  and  have  waged  a  conUnual 
urarfare,  except  short  truces,  with  the  Spaniards,  from  the  time  they 
pushed  their  enterprises  back  from  Mexico  into  the  internal  pro> 
vinces.  It  is  extremely  difficult  to  say  what  are  their  numbers  at 
the  present  day,  but  they  must  be  very  much  reduced,  from  their 
long  and  constant  warfare,  the  wandering  and  savage  life  they  lead 
in  the  mountains,  which  is  so  injurious  to  an  increase  of  population, 
and  in  which  they  are  frequently  extremely  pinched  by  famine. 

At  the  commencement  of  their  warfare  the  Spaniards  used  to 
take  their  prisoners  and  make  slaves  of  them  ;  but  finding  that  their 
unconquerable  attachment  to  liberty  made  them  surmount  every 
difficulty  and  danger  in  returning  to  their  mountains,  they  adopted 
the  mode  of  sending  them  to  Cuba,  which  the  Appaches  no  sooner 
learned  than  they  refused  to  give  or  receive  quarters,  and  in  no  in- 
stance have  there  been  any  taken  since  that  period,  except  sur* 
prised  when  asleep  or  knocked  down  and  overpowered. 

Their  arms  are  the  bow  and  arrow  and  the  lance.    Their  bow 
forms  two  demi-circles,  with  a  shoulder  in  the  middle  :  the  backofj 
it  is  entirely  covered  with  sinews,  which  are  laid  on  in  so  nice  a  man' 
ner,  by  the  use  of  some  glutinous  substance,  as  to  be  almost  impep 
ceptible  ;  this  gives  great  elasticity  to  the  weapon.    Their  arrow isj 
more  than  the  '*  cloth  yard"  of  the  English,  being  three  feet  and 
half  long,  the  upper  part  consisting  of  some  light  rush  or  cane,inti 
which  is  inserted  a  shaft  of  about  one  foot,  made  of  some  hard,  sea' 
soned  light  wood  ;  the  point  is  of  iron,  bone,  or  stone,  and,  whei 
the  arrow  enters  the  body,in  attempting  to  extract  it,  the  shaft  come{ 
out  of  its  socket  and  the  point  remains  in  the  wound.     With  tbi 
weapon  they  shoot  with  such  force  as  to  go  through  the  body  of 
mian  at  the  distance  of  100  yards,  and  an  officer  told  me  that,  in 
engagement  with  them,  one  of  their  arrows  struck  his  shield  aifiie  tiiri 
dismounted  him  in  an  instant.    Their  other  weapon  of  offence  isP'iougll 
lance  of  15  feet  in  length,  with  which  they  charge  with  both  hanwectedj 
over  their  heads,  managing  their  horses  principally  with  their  knewefore 
With  this  weapon  they  are  considered  an  overmatch  for  the  Spv)d  hi 

loined 


IT 

fo 
isl 
wc 

Sl]( 

Ma 
/am 

effo 

menl 
iie  r| 


cnrja 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  III. 


U 


I  :  ■  1 


itend  iVomlbe 
3ogquiUa,V.eep- 
state  of  alum, 
and  dragoons  lo 
nge  the  various 
J  of  hi*  Catholic 
5  entrance  of  the 
vaged  a  continual 
rom  the  time  they 
the  internal  pro- 
their  numbers  at 
•duced,  from  their 
,vage  life  they  lead 
pease  of  poi>«iation» 

;hedbyfamme. 
e  Spaniards  used  to 
hU  finding  that  thevr 
em  surmount  every 

>t»tains,  they  adopted 
Appaches  no  sooner 

quarters,  and  m  noln. 
^  period,  except  suf 

bowered. 

r     ,       „     Their  bovr 
he  lance.     ^ "^         . 
.middle:  the  back  of 

.id  on  in  so  nice  a  man-' 
las  to  be  almost  imper- 
',apon.  Their  arro«« 
ibeing  three  feet  an 

Uehtru8horcane,vn« 
'jeofsomehard,«a 

.e  or  stone,  and,  v/hed 

the  wound.     >^»     1 
'through  the  body  o( 

icer  told  me  that,  >ni 

struck  his  shield  a 
nveapon  of  offence  j 

.charge  vilh  both  H 
'.cipallyvvitl.the«-W 

,vermatch  for  the  Sp^ 


ish  dragoons  single  handed,  but,  for  want  of  a  knowledge  of  tactics^ 
they  can  never  stand  the  charge  of  a  body  which  acts  in  concert. 
They  all  carry  a  shield.  Some  few  are  armed  with  guns  and  am- 
inunition  taken  from  the  Spaniards.  Those,  as  well  as  the  archers, 
generally  march  to  war  on  foot;  but  the  lancemen  are  always 
mounted.  Numerous  are  the  anecdotes  I  have  heard  related  of 
their  personal  bravery  and  the  spirit  of  their  partisan  corps.  Not 
long  before  I  went  into  that  country  a  cornet,  with  63  dragoons,  be- 
tween New  Mexico  and  Biscay,  was  surrounded  by  about  200  Ap- 
.paches  infantry,  and  instead  of  charging  through  them,  as  it  was  on 
the  plain,  he  ordered  his  dragoons  to  dismount  and  fight  with  their 
carabines,  in  consequence  of  which  he  and  his  whole  party  fell  a 
sacrifice. 

Malgarss  related  an  instance  when  he  was  marching  with  140 
men  and  they  were  attacked  by  a  party  of  Appaches,  both  horse  and 
foot,  who  continued  the  fight  for  four  hours.  Whenever  the  Span- 
ish dragoons  would  make  a  general  charge,  the  Appaches'  cavalry 
would  rc(  -*  behind  their  infantry,  who  met  the  Spaniards  with  a 
shower  •  ws,  who  immediately  retreated,  and  even  the  gallant 

Malgart   .poke  of  the  Spanish  cavalry's  breaking  the  Appaches'  in- 
fantry IS  a  thing  not  to  be  thought  of. 

Malgares  assured  me  that,  if  the  Appaches  had  seconded  the 
eiTorts  and  bravery  of  their  chieftain,  the  Spaniards  must  have  been 
defeated  and  cut  to  pieces ;  th|t  in  various  instances  he  rallied  his 
men  and  brought  them  up  to  the  charge,  and  that  when  they  flew, 
he  retired  indignantly  to  the  rear.  Seeing  Malgares  very  actively 
engaged  in  forming  and  bringing  up  the  Spaniards,  the  Appache 
chieftain  rode  out  a-head  of  his  party  and  challenged  him  to  single 
combat  with  his  lance.  This  my  friend  refused,  as  he  said  that  the 
chief  was  one  of  the  stoutest  men  he  knew,  carried  a  remarkably 
heavy  lance,  and  rode  a  very  fine  charger ;  but  one  of  his  corpoirals, 
enraged  to  see  the  Spaniards  thus  braved  by  this  savage,  begged 
permission  to  meet  the  ".infidel."  His  officer  refused  his  request 
and  ordered  him  to  keep  his  ranks ;  but  !ie  reiterating  the  request, 
his  superior  in  a  passion  told  him  to  go.  The  Indian  chief  had 
turned  his  horse  to  join  his  party,  but  seeing  an  enemy  advancing, 
|he  turned,  gave  a  shout,  and  met  him  at  full  speed.  The  dragoon 
thought  to  parry  the  lance  of  his  antagonist,  which  he  in  part  ef* 
ected,  but  not  throwing  it  quite  high  enough,  it  entered  his  neck 
efore  and  came  out  at  the  nape,  when  he  fell  dead  to  the  ground, 
nd  his  victorious  cneniy  gave  a  shout  of  victory,  in  which  he  was 
joined  by  all  his  followers :  this  enraged  the  Spaniards  to  such  a  de- 


it '':ila - 


P,.\' 


h-  ^^ 


S-:i 


i: 


li' 


.1  k 


-•it     I 


13 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  III. 


gree  that  they  made  a  general  charge,  in  which  the  Indian  cavalry 
again  retreated  not^vithstandiug  the  entreaties  of  their  gallant 
leader. 

In  another  instance  a  small  smoke  was  discovered  on  the  prai> 
nc ;  three  poor  savages  were  surrounded  by  100  dragoons  and  or- 
U^red  to  lay  down  their  arms :  they  smiled  at  the  officer's  demand 
and  asked  him  if  he  could  suppose  that  men  who  had  arms  in  their 
hands  would  ever  consent  to  become  slaves.  The  officer,  being 
loath  to  kill  them,  held  a  conference  for  an  hour,  when  ^^nding  that 
his  threats  had  as  little  effect  as  his  entreaties,  he  ordered  his  men 
to  attack  them  at  a  distance,  keeping  out  of  the  reach  of  their  ar- 
rows, and  firing  at  them  with  their  carabines,  which  they  did,  the 
Indians  never  ceasing  to  resist  as  long  as  life  remained. 

In  a  truce  which  was  held  a  Spanish  captain  was  ordered  to 
treat  with  some  of  the  bands.    He  received  their  deputies  with  hao- 
teur,  and  they  could  not  come  upon  terms.    The  truce  wart  broken 
and  the  Indians  retreated  to  their  fastnesses  in  the  mountains.    In  a 
day  or  two  this  same  officer  pursued  them :  they  were  in  «  place 
called  the  door  in  the  mountain,  where  but  two  or  three  dragoons 
could  enter  at  a  time,  and  there  were  rocks  and  caves  on  the  flanks 
behind  which  the  Indians  secreted  themselves  until  a  number  of 
the  Spaniards  had  come  in,  when  the  Indians  sounded  a  trumpet 
and  the  attack  began  and  continued  on  the  side  of  the  Appaches 
until  the  Spanish  captain  fell,  when  the  Indian  chief  caused  tht  fir- 
ing to  cease,  saying  that  "  the  mail  who  had  so  haughtily  sp  arned 
the  proffered  peace  was  now  dead."    On  this  occasion  they  devi- 
ated from  their  accustomed  rule  of  warfare  and  made  prisoner  of  a  { 
young  officer,  who,  during  the  truce,  had  treated  them  with  great 
kindness,  and  sent  him  home'safe  and  unhurt.     Some  of  the  bands  I 
have  made  temporary  truces  with  the  Spaniards  and  received  fromj 
them  25  cents  per  diem  each.    Those  people  hang  round  the  fortil 
ficationsof  the  country,  drink,  shoot,  and  dissipate  their  time  ;  they 
are  haughty  and  independent.    Great  jealousy  exists  between  tlteml 
and  the  Spaniards.     An  officer  was  under  trial,  when  I  was  in  tliel 
country,  for  anticipating  an  attack  on   iiis  fortress  by  attacking  tliei 
chiefs  of  the  supposed  conspiracy,  and  putdng  them  to  death  beforel 
they  had  time  to  nature  and  carry  their  plan  into  execution.    TheT 
decision  of  his  case  I  never  learnt ;  but  those   savages  who  hava 
been  for  some  time  about  the  forts  and  villajjes,  become  by  far  th<j 
most  dangerous  enemies  the  Spaniards  have,  when  hostile,  as  thei 
acquire  the  Spanish   language,, manners,  and  habits,  and  passinJ 
through  the  populated  parts  under  the  disguise  of  the  civilized  anaretrilJ 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  III. 


IS 


Indian  cavalry 
their   gaViwA 

srcd  on  the  prai- 
vagoona  and  ov- 
officet's  demand 
lad  arms  in  their 
•he  officer,  being 
vhen  finding  thut 
ordered  his  men 
reach  of  their  ar- 
hich  they  did,  the 

ained. 

ilTi  was  oYdered  to 
.  deputies  with  han- 
le  truce  wai»  broken 
»e  mountains.    In  a 

,ey  were  in  *  P^^ce 
o  or  three  dragoons 
leaves  on  the  flank. 

a  until  a  number  c( 
sounded  a  trumpet 

te  of  the  Appaches 
,  chief  caused  tht  fir- 

,o  haughtily  *7^r"^? 
,  occasion  they  dev;- 
>d  made  prisoner  of  a 

f  ted  them  with  gre»t 
Some  of  the  bands 
•ds  and  received  from 
hang  round  the  fonv 
^pate  their  time  i  m 
exists  between  tlrein 
.,1,  vs'hen  1  was  m  iW 
[tress  by  attacking  tl>e 
'  ,  them  to  death  bcN 
ii^to  execution.    The 
.se  savages  who  hav. 
Ls,  become  by  far  h< 
Tyhcn  hostile,  as  the] 
L\  habits,  and  pasM«i 
Lof  thccivilizctlaol 


friendly  Indians,  commit  murders  and  robberies  and  are  not  sus- 
pected. There  is  in  the  province  of  Cogquilla  a  partisan  by  the 
name  of  Ralph,  who,  they  calculate,  has  killed  more  than  SCO  per- 
sons. He  comes  into  the  towns  under  the  disguise  of  a  peasant, 
buys  provisions,  goes  to  the  gambling  tables  and  to  mass,  and  before 
he  leaves  the  village,  is  sure  to  kill  some  person  or  carry  off  a  wo- 
man, which  he  has  frequently  done.  Sometimes  he  joinis  people 
travelling  on  the  road,  insinuates  himself  into  their  confidence,  and 
takes  his  opportunity  to  assassinate  them.  He  has  only  six  follow- 
ers, and  from  their  knowledge  of  the  country,  activity,  and  cun- 
ning, he  keeps  about  300  Spanish  dragoons  continually  employed. 
The  government  have  offered  1000  dollars  for  his  head. 

The  civilized  Indians  of  the  province  of  New  Mexico  are  of 
what  was  formerly  twenty -four  different  bands,  the  different  names 
of  which  I  did  not  become  acquainted  with,  but  the  Keres  were  one 
of  the  most  powerful ;  they  form  at  present  the  population  of  St.  Do- 
mingo, St.  Philips,  and  Deis,  and  one  or  two  other  towns.    They  are 
men  of  large  stature,  round  fnll  visage,  fine  teeth,  appear  to  be  of  a 
gentle,  tractable  disposition,  and  resemble  the  Osage  more  than  any 
nation  of  whom  I  possess  any  knowledge.     They  are  not  the  vas- 
sals of  Individuals,  yet  may  properly  be  termed  the  slaves  of  the 
state,  for  they  are  compelled  to  do  military  duty,  drive  mules,  carry 
loads,  or  in  fact  perform  any  other  act  of  duty  or  bondage  thut  the 
will  of  the  commandant  of  the  district,  or  any  passing  r.tilitary  ty- 
rant chooses  to  ordain.    I  was  myself  eye-witness  of  a  scene  which 
made  my  hea:  t  bleed  for  those  poor  wretches,  at  the  same  time  that 
it  excited  my  indignation  and  cont&mpt,  that  th  jy  .vould  suffer  them- 
selves, with  arms  in  their  hands,  to  be  beut  and  knocked  about  by 
beings  no  ways  tlieir  superiors,  unless  a  small  tint  cf  complexion 
could  be  supposed  to  give  that  superiority.     P'''ore  we  arrived  at 
Santa  Fe,  one  night,  we  were  near  one  of  the  villages  where  resided 
the  families  cf  '.wo  of  our  Indian  horsemen.     They  took  the  liberty 
to  pay  them  a  visit  in  the  night.     Next  morning  the  whole  of  the 
Indian  horsemen  were  called  up,  unci  because  they  refused  to  testify 
against  their  imprudent  companions,  several   were  knocked  down 
from  their  horsts  by  the  Spanish  dragoons  with  the  butt  of  their 
lances  ;  yet,  with  the  blood  streaming  down  their  visages,  and  arms 
in  their  hands,  they  stood  cool  and  trunqiiil :  not  a  frown,  not  a  word 
of  discontent  or  palliation  escaped  their  lips.     Yet  what  must  have 
been  the  boiling  indignation  of  th»'ir  souls  at  tlTe  indignities  oflered 
by  the  wretch  clothttd  with  a  littje  brief  authoiiiy  ;  but  the  day  of 
retribution  will  come  in  thunder  and  in  veng'.ance. 


,    1 

i 

i  ■  <i 

i''i 

,.,-''i'^ 

•i;  .' 

!'>:; 

I !!.'«: 


Ill:' 


h 


14 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  III. 


hi.y 


m;i  • . 


ha  i     t     ! 
J 

n 


'I   ' 


-.In 


Those  savages  are  armed  with  bow  and  arrows  and  with  lances, 
or  escopates.  I 

Although  they  are  said  to  be  converted  to  Christianity,  they 
still  retain  many  of  their  ancient  rituals,  feasts,  and  ceremonies, 
one  of  which  is  so  remarkable  it  must  not  be  passed  unnoticed. 
Once  a  year  there  is  a  great  feast  prepared  for  three  successive 
iWji  hich  they  spend  in  eating,  drinking,  and  dancing.  Near  to 
th.*'  e^e  of  amusement  is  a  dark  cave,  into  which  not  a  glimpse 
of  Ikf^ht  can  penetrate  and  in  which  is  prepared  places  to  repose  on. 
To  this  place  persons  of  all  descriptions,  of  both  sexes  and  of  all  ages, 
after  puberty,  and  repair  in  the  night,  where  there  is  an  indiscrimi. 
nate  commerce  of  the  votaries,  as  chance,  fortune,  and  events  di< 
rect.  Those  revels  certainly  have  great  affinity  to  soone  of  the  an< 
eient  mystic  rights  of  Greece  and  Rome. 

Government  and  Laws. — The  government  of  New  Mexico 
may  b'  termed  military,  in  the  pure  sense  of  the  word ;  for  although 
they  have  their  alcades  or  inferior  officers,  their  judgments  are  sub- 
ject to  a  reversion  by  the  military  comniandants  of  districts.  The 
whole  male  population  are  subject  to  military  duty,  without  pay  or 
emolument,  and  are  obliged  to  find  their  own  horses,  arms  and  pro- 
vision. The  only  thing  furnished  by  the  government  is  ammuni- 
tion, and  it  is  extraordinary  with  what  subordination  they  act  when 
they  are  turned  out  to  do  military  duty,  a  strong  pr  >f  of  which  was 
exhibited  in  the  expedition  of  Malgares  to  the  Pawnees.  His 
command  consisted  of  100  dragoons  of  the  regular  service  and  500 
drafts  from  the  province.  He  had  continued  down  the  Red  river 
until  their  provision  began  to  be  short :  they  then  demanded  of  the 
lieutenant  where  he  was  bound  and  the  intention  of  the  expedition : 
To  this  he  hai]ghtily  replied,  "  wherever  his  horse  led  him."  A 
few  mornings  after  lie  was  presented  with  a  petition,  signed  by  200 
of  the  militia,  to  return  home.  He  halted  immediately,  and  caused 
ills  dragoons  to  erect  a  gallows  ;  then  beat  to  arms.  The  troops 
fell  in  :  he  separated  the  Jietitioners  from  the  others,  then  took  the 
man  who  had  presented  the  petition,  tied  him  up,  and  gave  him  50  j 
lashes,  and  threatened  to  put  to  death,  on  the  gallows  erected,  any 
man  who  sliould  dare  to  grumble.  This  effectually  silenced  them, 
and  quelled  the  rising  spirit  of  sedition  ;  but  it  was  remarked  that 
it  was  the  first  instance  of  a  Spaniard  receiving  corporal  punishmentj 
ever  known  in  the  province. 

Morals,  Maimers,  is'c. — There  is  nothing  peculiarly  character! 
istic  in  this  province  that  will  not  be  embraced  in  my  general  obser- 
vations on  New   Spain,  except  that  being  frontier,  and  cut  off,  asiJ 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  III. 


\9 


and  with  lances, 

hriatlanlty,  they 
ind  ceremonies, 
issed  unnoticed, 
three  successive 

jnclng.    Nf«^'"to 
:h  not  a  glimpse 
jces  to  repose  on. 
tes  and  of  all  ages, 
B  is  an  indlscrltnl- 
ne,  and  events  di- 
to  some  of  the  an- 

of  New  Mexico 
word;  for  although 
judgments  are  sub- 
i  of  districts.  The 
uty, without  payor 
>rse8,  arms  and  pro- 
rnmentlsammum. 

atlon  they  act  when 
,pr>f  of  which  was 

the  Pawnees.    His 
ular  service  and  5O0 
down  the  Red  river 
.en  demanded  of  the 
n  of  the  expedition: 

horse  led  him."  A 
.tltlon,  signed  by  200 
lediately,  and  caused 
arms.  The  iroop^ 
others,  then  took  the 

up,  and  gave  him  50 
gallows  erected,  any  | 
ctually  silenced  them, 
lit  was  remarked  that 
corporal  pvuushmeiitl 

^  peculiarly  character' 
hin  my  general  obser- 

|nlier,and  cut  off,  as  •• 


were,  from  the  more  inhabited  parts  of  the  kingdom,  together  with 
their  continual  wars  with  some  of  the  savage  nations  who  sur- 
round them,  render  them  the  bravest  and  most  hardy  subjects  in 
New  Spain ;  being  generally  armed,  they  knou  the  use  of  them. 
Their  want  of  gold  and  silver  renders  them  laborious,  in  order  that 
the  productions  of  their  labor  may  be  the  means  of  establishing  the 
equilibrium  between  them  and  the  other  piovinces  where  those 
metals  abound.  Their  insolated  and  remote  situation  also  causes 
them  to  exhibit,  in  a  superior  degree,  the  heaven-like  qualities  of 
hospitality  and  kindness,  in  which  tiiey  appear  to  endeavor  to  fulfil 
the  injunction  <>f  the  scripture,  which  enjoins  us  to  feed  the  hungry, 
tilothe  the  naked,  and  give  comfort  to  the  oppressed  in  spirit,  and  I 
shall  alwa^  s  take  pleasure  in  expressing  my  gratitude  for  their 
noble  reception  of  myself  and  the  men  under  my  command. 

Military  Force. — There  is  but  one  troop  of  dragoons  in  all 
New  Mexico  of  the  regular  force,  which  is  stationed  at  Santa  Fe, 
and  is  100  strong.  Of  this  troop  the  governor  is  always  the  captain, 
entitling  himself  captain  of  the  royal  troop  of  S^  'a  Fe  dragoouK ;  but 
they  are  commanded  by  a  first  lieutenant,  who  i^  captain  by  brevet. 

The  men  capable  of  bearing  arms  in  this  province  may  be 
estimated  at  2000 1  of  those  probably  1000  are  completely  armed, 
1000  badly,  and  the  rest  not  at  all. 

Helicon.— 'The  catholic  religion  is  practised  in  this  province 
after  the  same  manner  as  in  the  other  provinces,  and  will  hereafter 
be  taken  notice  of  generally. 

Histcry.'—ln  the  year  1594  two  friars  came  out  from  Old  Mex- 
ico to  New  Mexico,  and  were  well  received  by  the  savagi  •».  They 
returned,  and  the  ensuing  year  Juan  de  Ouute,  a  monk,  went  out, 
explored  the  country,  and  returned.  After  this  100  troops  and  500 
men,  women,  and  children  came  out  and  settled  on  the  Rio  del 
Norte,  some,  no  very  great,  distance  from  where  Santa  Fe  now 
stands.  They  enterec'  into  an  arrangement  with  the  Indians  on  the 
subject  of  their  establishment ;  but  a  few  years  after  the  Indians 
rose  en  masae,  fell  on  the  Spaniards  by  surprise,  killed  most  of  the 
soldiers,  and  obliged  them  to  retreat  to  the  Passo  del  .Norte  (from 
whence  it  acquired  its  name).  Here  they  waited  a  reinforcement 
from  Biscay,  which  they  received,  of  70  men  and  two  field-pieces, 
with  which  they  recommenced  their  march  and  finally  arrived  at 
Santa  Fe,  then  the  capital  Indian  village,  to  which  they  immediately 
laid  siege.  The  Indians  maintained  themselves  twenty-two  days, 
when  they  surrendered  and  entered  into  a  second  negotiation,  since 
[which  time  the  Spaniards  have  been  engaged  in  continual  warfare 


'\,  illiii! 


I* 


Uf 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  III. 


I J 


I    i 


vith  the  various  savage  tribes  vrhich  surround  them  on  all  sides, 
and  who  have  been  near  ruining  themselves  several  timest  and 
obliged  them  to  apply  for  reinforcements  from  Biscay  and  Senora. 
A  few  years  since  the  Tetaus  carried  on  a  warm  and  vigorous  war 
against  them^  but  are  now  at  pe^ce  and  considered  as  their  firmest 
allies. 

In  the  history  of  New  Mexico  it  may  not  be  improper  to  re- 
cord the  name  of  James  Purslcy,  the  first  American  who  ever  pene- 
trated the  immense  wilds  of  Louisiana,  and  shewed  the  Spaniards  of 
New  Mexico  that  neither  the  savages  who  surround  the  deserts 
which  divide  them  from  the  habitable  world,  nor  the  jealous  tyranny 
of  their  rulers,  was  sufficient  to  prevent  the  enterprising  spirit  of 
the  Americans  penetrating  the  arcanum  of  their  rich  establish- 
ment of  the  new  world.  Pui  Jey  was  from  near  Baird's  town,  Ken- 
tucky, which  he  left  in  1799.  In  1802,  with  two  companions,  he 
left  St.  Louis  and  travelled  west,  on  the  head  of  the  Osage  river, 
where  they  made  a  hunt :  from  thence  they  struck  for  the  White 
river  of  the  Arkansaw,  and  intended  to  descend  it  to  Orleans  ;  but, 
while  making  preparations,  the  Kans  stole  their  horses.  They 
secured  their  peltries  and  pursued  them  into  the  village.  The 
horses  were  there,  but  the  Indians  refused  to  give  them  up.  Purs- 
ley  saw  his  horse,  with  an  Indian  on  him,  going  to  the  water  at  the 
edge  of  the  town,  pursued  him,  and  with  his  knife  ripped  open  the 
horse's  bowels.  The  Indian  returned  to  the  village,  got  his  gun, 
and  came  and  snapped  it  at  Pursley,  who  pursued  him  into  the  vil- 
lage with  his  knife.  The  Indian  took  refuge  in  a  lodge  surrounded 
by  women  and  c!>ildren.  This  struck  the  chiefs  with  astonishment 
und  adniitation  of  the  "  mad  Americans,"  as  they  termed  them,  and 
they  returned  ..he  other  horses  to  the  hunters.  This  anecdote  was 
related  by  traders  who  were  in  the  village  at  the  time.  Pursley  and 
his  companions  theii  returned  to  where  they  had  buried  their  peltiy, 
and  determined  to  pursue  the  route  by  land  to  St.  Louis :  but  some 
persons  stole  their  horses  a  second  time,  when  they  were  at  no  great 
distance  from  the  Osage  river,  on  which  they  formed  a  rough 
canoe  and  descended  that  stream.  Near  the  entrance  of  the  Mis- 
.souri  they  overset  their  canoe  and  lost  their  whole  year's  hunt,  but  | 
saved  their  arms  nnd  ammunition,  which  is  always  the  primary  ob- 
ject in  a  desert.     In  the  Missouri  they  met  Monsieur ini 

his  barge,  bound  to  the  Mandanes.     Pufsley  embarked  with  him  forj 
the  voyage  :  his  two  companions  prefered  returning  to  their  homes. 
On  their  arrival  a^  the  point  of  destination,  his  employer  dispatchedl 
Pursley  on  a  hunting  and  trading  tour,  with  some  bands  of  the  Padj 


H 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  III. 


ur 


tlucas  and  Kyaways,  with  a  small  quantity  of  merchandise.     In 

the  ensuing  spring  they  were  driven  from  the  plains  by  the  Sioux 

into  the  mountains  which  give  birth  to  the  La  Phitte,  Arkansaw, 

Sec.  &CC.  and  it  was  their  sign  which  we  saw  in  such  amazing  abun* 

dance  on   the  head  waters  of  La  Platte.     Their  party  consiste4 

of  near  2,000  souls,  with  10,000  beasts.  *  The  Indians,   knowing 

they  were  approximating  to  New  Mexico,  determined  to  send  Purs* 

ley,  with  his  companions  and  two  of  their  body,  into  Santa  Fe,  to 

know  of  the   Spaniards  if  they  would  receive  them  friendly  and 

enter  into  a  trade  with  them.    Tiiis  being  acceded  to  by  the  govcr* 

nor  ( Allencaster)  the  Indian  deputies  returned  for  their  bands;  but 

Puraley  thought  proper  to  remain  wiih  a  civilized  people,  which  » 

fortuitous  event  had  thrown  him  among,  a  circumstance  which,  he 

assured  me,  he  had  at  one  time  entirely  despaired  of.     He  arrivecj 

at  Santa  Fe  in  June    1805,  and  had  been  following  his  trade,  a  cur* 

penter,  ever  since,  at  which  he  made  a  great  deal  of  money,  except 

when  working  for  the  officers,  who  paid  him  little  or  nothing.    He 

was  a  man  of  strong  natural  sense  and  dauntless  intrepidity.    He 

entertained  me  with  numerous  interesting  anecdotes  of  his  adven* 

lures  with  the  Indians,  and  of  the  jealousy  of  the  Spanish  govern* 

ment.    He  was  once  near  being  hanged  for  making  a  lew  pounds  of 

gun-powder,  which  he  innocently  did,  as  he  had  been  accustomed  to 

do  in  Kentucky,  but  which  is  a  capital  crime  in  these  provinces.  He 

still  retained  the  gun  which  he  had  with  him  \\U  -  'hole  tour,  and 

poke  confidently  that  if  he  had  two  hours  start  not  all  the  province 

could  take  him.    He  was  forbidden  to  write,  but  was  assured  he 

ihould  have  a  passport  whenever  he  demanded  it,  but  was  obliged 

,y  termed  ihem,  and  Bio  give  security  that  he  would  not  leave  the  country  without  permis* 

This  anecdote  vrai  ■jq^  of  the  government.     He  assured  me  that  he  had  found  gold  on 

lime.    Puvsley  and  m^^^  \ie^A  of  La  Platte,  and  had  carried  some  of  the  virgin  mineral 

buried  their  pelU7,  ■„  f,jg  ahot-pouch  for  months ;  but  that  being  in  doubt  whether  h* 

St.  Louis :  but  some  Bhould  ever  again  behold  the  civilized  world,  and  losing  in  his  mind 

ihey  were  at  no  gveat  m\  ^^  i^ggi  -value  which  mankind  have  stamped  on  that  metal,  he 

icy  formed  a  tougn  mjg^  t^g  sample  away :  that  he  had  imprudently  mentioned  it  to 

ntrance  of  the  Mis-mj,  Spaniards,  who  had  frequently  solicited  him  to  go  and  shew  "• 

rhole  year's  hunt,  but  Betachment  of  cavalry  t!  e  place,  but  that  conceiving  it  in  pur  terri^' 

ays  the  pvi««*''y    .* Irjr  he  had  refused,  and  was  fearful  that  the  circumstance  might 

onsieur '"leate  a  great  obstacle  to  hi84eaving  the  country. 

.barked  with  him  fori    Geography Biscay  lies-between  33°  and  34"  N.  latitude  and 

rning  to  thpir  homes. Ijo  ^^^  j  j  jo  ^y  longitude,  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  New  Me»i» 
employer  dispatched  I  ^^^^  ^j^^  west  by  Senora  and  Sinaloa,  and  on  the  east  by  New  Leo» 
me  bands  of  the  Pad-Ij  Cogquilla.    It  i«  600  miles  in  length  from  north-west  to  southf 

IS 


A  on  all  sides, 
ral  times,  and 
jty  and  Senora. 
I  vigorous  war 
^s  their  firmest 

improper  to  re- 
who  ever  pene- 
;he  Spaniards  of 
,undlhe  deserts 
e  jealous  tyranny 
rprising  spirit  oi 
ir  rich  esiablish- 
laird's  town,  Ken- 
0  companions,  he 
f  the  Osage  river, 
ack  for  the  While 
Lt  to  Orleans  1  but, 

eir  horses,  'i'hey 
the  village.    The 

ve  them  up.  Vurs- 
to  the  water  at  the 

ife  ripped  open  the 
iUage,  got  his  guTj, 
led  him  into  the  vil- 
a  lodge  surrounded 
with  astonishment 


•►i:; 


il     ■■ 


•iili'iii 


n 


13 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  III. 


east,  and  400  miles  in  width  from  east  to  west,  taking  it  at  its  great* 
est  extent. 

jlir  and  Climate. — The  air  is  dry  and  the  heat  very  great  at 
that  season  of  the  year,  which  precedes  the  rainy  season,  which 
comnncnces  in  June  and  continues  until  September  by  light  show- 
ers. During  the  other  "part  of  the  year  there  is  not  the  least  rain 
or  snow  to  moisten  the  earth.  The  atmosphere  had  therefore  be- 
come so  electrified,  that  when  we  halted  at  night,  in  taking  off  our 
blankets  the  electric  fluid  would  ahnost  cover  them  with  sparks,  and 
in  Chibuubua  we  prepared  a  bottle  with  gold-leaf,  as  a  receiver,  and 
collected  sufTicient  of  the  electric  fluid  from  a  bear-skin  to  give  a 
considerable  shock  to  a  number  of  persons.  This  phenomenon 
was  more  conspicuous  in  the  vicinity  of  Chihuahua  than  in  any 
other  part  that  we  passed  over. 

J\ Tinea  and  Minerala. — This  province  abounds  in  silver  and  gold 
mines,  which  yield  an  immense  quantity  of  those  metals,  but  not 
so  threat  a  revenue  to  the  king  as  those  which  are  nearer  the  mint, 
and  consequently  present  a  greater  facility  to  coinage.    I  am  not 
acquainted  with  the  proportion  of  the  metals  which  the   mineral 
yields  in  any  instance,  except  in  one  of  the  silver  mines  at  Chihua. 
i:ua,  which  belonged  to  a  friend  of  mine,  who  informed  me  that  his 
mine  yielded  him  13  1-2  dollars  per  cwt.    I  one  day,  with  Robinson, 
went  through  many  of  these   furnaces  and  noticed  the  manner 
which  they  pursued  in  analysing  the  mineral  and  extraetir  j  the 
metals,  but,  as  I  had  previously  asked  several  Spanish  oflicers  to  ac 
company  me,  who  had  always  declined  or  defered  it  to  a  future  pc 
riod,  I  conceived  it  probable  it  was  too  delicate  a  subject  to  makeal 
minute  inquiry  into.     I,  however,  so  far  observed  the  process  asti 
learn  that  the  mineral  was  brought  from  the  mines  in  bags, 
mules,  to  the  furnace:  it  was  then  ground  or  pounded  into  smi 
lumps,  not  more  than  the  size  of  a  nut,  and  precipitated  into  waterj 
in  a  bievc  which  permitted  the  smaller  particles  to  escape  intoatui 
through  several  progressive  operations.     From  the  small  particli 
which  remained  at  the  bottom  of  the  tubs,  after  it  had  been  purifiej 
of  the  earthy  qualities,  there  was  a  proportipn  of  metal  extract! 
by  a  nicer  process  ;  but.  the  larger  parts  were  put  into  a  furnace 
milar  to  our  iron  furnaces,  and  when  it  was  in  a  state  of  fusion,  it  wi 
let  out  into  a  bed  of  sand  prepared  .for  it  which  formed  it  inl 
bars  about  tlie  size  of  our  common  pig  iron,  averaged  in  valuelsgoy 
about  2rS00  dollars.     The  gold  was  cast  into  a  mould  similar  tAci  dis 
bowl  and  stamped,  as  was  each  bar  of  silver,  by  the  king's  essanurse 
of  metals,  with  its  value.    They  were  worth  from  8  to  1 0,000 dljo  del 


I 

1 

v< 

(u 

vo 

be 

the 

the 

/on 

itp! 

atth 
fore 
ceasi 
silve; 

toin< 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  III. 


19 


Is 


lars.  These  masses  of  silver  and  gold  are  then  received  into  tlie 
king's  treasury  in  payment,  and  in  fact  have  a  currency  through  the 
kingdom  ;  but  there  are  vast  speculations  made  on  the  coinagej  aa 
people  who  have  not  large  capitals  prefer  selling  their  bullion,  in 
the  internal  provinces,  at  a  considerable  discount,  to  being  obliged 
to  transport  it  to  Mexico,  in  order  to  have  it  converted  into  specie. 
The  present  C— — — ,  I  was  informed,  was  engaged  in  this  traf- 
fic, on  which,  from  the  province  of  Senora,  he  sometimes  made  25 
per  cent.  Numbers  of  the  proprietors  who  have  no  immediate  use 
for  their  bullion  put  it  into  their  cellars,  where  it  remains  piled  up 
for  their  posterity,  of  no  service  to  themselves  or  the  community. 
There  are  at  Chihuahua  and  its  vicinity  fifteen  mines,  thirteen  sil- 
ver, one  gold,  and  one  copper,  the  furnaces  of  all  of  which  are  si- 
tuated round  the  town  and  suburbs,  and  present,  except  on  Sundays, 
volumes  of  smoke  arising  to  the  eye  in  every  direction,  which  can 
be  seen  from  a  distance  long  before  the  spires  of  the  city  strike 
the  view.  It  is  incredible  tlie  quantity  of  cinders  which  surround 
the  city  in  piles  ten  or  fifteen  feet  high :  next  the  creek  they  have 
formed  a  bank  of  it  to  check  the  encroachments  of  the  stream,  and 
it  presents  an  effectual  barrier. 

I  am  told  that  an  European  employed  some  hands  and  wrought 
at  the  cinders  and  that  it  yielded  .one  dollar  and  twenty-iive  cents 
for  each  per  day ;  but  that  this  not  answering  his  expectations,  he 
ceased  his  proceedings.  At  Mausseme  there  is  one  gold  and  seven 
silver  mines. 

At  Durango  there  are  many  and  rich  mines,  but  the  number 
to  me  is  unknown. 

There  are  also  gold  mines  in  the  Sierra  Madrc,  near  Alomas, 

and  many  others  of  which  I  have  no  knowledge.     There  is  in  the 

(led  into  smaiHprovince,  about  one  hundred  miles  south  of  Chihuahua,  a  mountain 

•  'tated  into  watetBor  hill  of  loadstone.     Walker,  who  had  been  on  the  ground  and  sur- 

P*^^        scape  intoatuWreyedit,  informed  me  it  appeared  to  be  solid  strata,  as  regular  as 
Vk    smaW  particlefcat  of  limestone,  or  any  other  of  the  species.     He  had  brouglk 

""'  't  \  ad  been  puvi&efcome  a  square  piece  of  near  a  foot  and  a  half,  was  preparing  some 
•        f  metal  extractelobe  sent  to  Spain,  and  likewise  forming  magnets  to  accompany  it, 

'f^^^      .       ^  furnace  Ai  order  that  their  comparative  strength  might  be  ascertained  witli 

t  te  of  fusion,  itviftiagnets  formed  in  Europe. 

Y^     .  u  formed  it  "I     Rivera. — Rio  Conchos  is  the  largest  in  the  province.    It  takes 

r  •    ed  in  valuels  source  in  the  Sierra  Madre,  near  Batopilis  in  28°  N.  latitude, 

V'  *^      uld  similar  tifid  discharges  itself  into  the  Rio  del  Norte  in  the   31°,  alter  a 
^     the  king'*  ess»j|)urse  of  about  300  miles.     It  is  the  largest  western  branch  of  the 

i^"^'   ^      o  ♦«.  lO.OOOiiio  del  Norte,  and  receives  in  its  course  the  Rio  Florido  from  the 


g  it  at  its  great- 

at  very  great  at 
,y  season,  which 
Bi- by  light  show, 
not  the  least  rain 
,ad  therefore  be- 
in  taking  off  ouv 
„  with  sparks,  and 
as  a  receiver,  and 
,ear.skin  to  gives 
This  phenomenon 
uahua  than  in  any 

dsin  silver  and  gold 
ose  metals,  but  not 
are  nearer  the  mint, 
,  comage.     * 
,  which  the  mineral 
ver  mines  at  Chihua- 
informed  me  that  hu 
,e  day,  >vith  Robinson, 
^  noticed  the  tnannet 
al  and  extraetir?  the 
Spanish  officers  to  ac 

fered  it  to  a  future  pe- 
te a  subject  to  make  a| 
„rved  the  process  as  tr 

the  mines  in  bags, 


or 


,  .ill,  i, 

'•'■ ' '  i 

if" 


111:     '- 

,'i     ;■ 


'I 


IT 


II 


:  ■  iilliiiiii 


5" 

Uf 


80 


APPENDIX  TO  PAUT  lit. 


:\  f 


■1 


cast  and  San  Panbia  from  tlie  west«  where  we  struck  the  Conchas 
It  ap|)eurcd  to  be  nearly  as  large  as  the  Hio  del  Norte  at  the  Passu. 

The  Hio  San  Paiibla  is  the  largest  westvin  branch  of  the  Coii' 
chos,  and  heads  in  28"  51/  N.  latitude,  and  empties  into  the  latter  at 
Bukinoa.  Its  whole  course  is  about  150  miles:  in  summer  it  iy 
nearly  dry,  and  in  the  rainy  seasons  impassable. 

The  Rio  Morido  takes  its  rise  in  latitude  26  1-3  N.  and  after  a 
course  of  about  150  milest  discharges  itself  into  the  Conchos. 
Guaxcquillo  is  situated  on  its  east  bank  about  its  centre. 

The  Rio  Nassus  is  in  part  the  line  between  Biscay  and  Cog- 
<)uilla :  it  runs  north  and  sinks  in  the  lake  du  Cayman  ;  it  is  nearly 
dry  in  the  dry  seasons,  but  at  tofne  seasons  it  is  impassable. 

Lakea.—'L^c  du  Cayman  and  lac  du  Parras  are  two  small  lakeS) 
situated  at  tlie  foot  of  the  mountains  and  arc  full  of  fish. 

,/inirnala,  ifiaect.i,  Vc— There  are  some  few  bears,  deer,  and 
wild  horses,  but  they  are  not  in  abundance.     The  scorpions  of  Du* 
fango  are  one  of  the  most  remarkable  instances  of  the  physical 
effects  of  climate  or  air  that  I  ever  saw   recorded.     They  come 
out  of  the  walls  and  crevices  in  May,  and  continue  about  a  fortnight 
in  such  numbers  that  the  inhabitants  never  walk  in  their  houses 
after  dark  without  a  light,  and  always  shift  or  examine  the   bed* 
clothes  and  beat  the  curtains  previous  to  going  to  bed)  after  which  I 
the  curtains  are  secured  under  the  bed,  similar  to  the  precautions 
we  take  with  our  musquito  curtains.    The  bite  of  those  scorpionsb  j, 
hf.ii  been  known  to  prove  mortal  in  two  hours.    The  most  extraor'T 
dinary  circumstance  is  that  by  taking  them  ten  leagues  from  Duran- 
go,  they  become  perfectly  harmless  and   lose  all  theiv  vencmousl 
qualities.    Query,  Does  it  arise  from  a  change  of  air,  sustenance,  oi[ 
What  other  cause  ? 

Pofiujation  and  Chief  Tbwns.— The  population  of  Biscay  majl  \f}^i 
be  estimated  at  200,000:  of  these  three>twentieths  may  be  Spani-lgeiy 
ards  from  Europe,  iive*twentieths  Creoles,  five-twentieths  Metifslada 
and  Quatroons,  and  seven-twentieths  Indians.  Durango  was  foundedl^gj 
in  1550.     It  is  the  principal  city,  the  seat  of  governnient  for  thJ(fm.j 
province  of  Biscay  and  of  the  bishoprick  of  Durango.     Its  popuiilthei} 
tion  may  be  estimated  at  40,000  souls.    It  is  situated  in  25"  N| 
latitude  and  107*»  W.  longitude.  IVort 

Pallalein,  situated  somewhere  at  the  foot  of  the  Sierra  MadriJihey 
is  supposed  to  contain  25,000  souls.  Pninii 

Chihuahua,  the  place  of  residence  of  the  commandant  genlheep 
ral  of  the  internal  provinces,  was  founded  in  1691,  is  situated Iriore 
29®  N.  latitude,  107"  30'  VV.  longitude.     Its  population  may  be  elersoj 
timated  at  7,000.     It  is  an  oblong  square,  on  the  east  side  of  a  smf 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  III. 


't  I 


k  the  ConcboH 
le  at  ihe  Pa»»o. 
nchof  OicCon. 
•„M0  U»c  laltcr  at 
In  »«mmcf  "^^  *** 

.aN.  at>d  after  B 
Uo  the  Conchirt. 

centre. 

1  Biscay  aw^  <^°S' 

•    »«  •  it  is  nearly 
lyman  ,  w »"         ' 

[npaH»ab\c. 
urctwoamaUlaWes, 

\  of  fisb"  , 

,w  bears,  deer,  and 


he  acorpw"* 


of  Du' 


fttceam  which  discharges  itself  intu  the  river  Conchos.    On  its 
south  extremity  is  a  sniuH  but  elegant  church.    In  the  public  s(|uure 
Btunda  the  principal   church,  royal   treasury,  town-house,  and  the 
richest  shops.     At  the  western  extremity  is  another  church  for  the 
military,  a  superb  hospital,  Ijclonging  formerly  to  the  Jesuits'  pos' 
Aes&ions,  the  church  of  the  monks  of  St.  Francis,  St.  Domingo,  the 
military  academy,  and  quurtcl  del  tropa.     On  the  north-west  were 
two  or  three  missions  very  handsomely  situated  on  a  small  stream 
which  comes  in  from  the  west.    About  one  mile  to  the  south  of  thu 
town  is  a  lurf^e  aqueduct  which  conveys  the  water  round  it,  to  the 
east,  into  the  main  stream  below  the  town,  in  the  centre  of  which  is 
raised  a  reservoir  for  the  water,  from  whence  it  is  to  be  conducted 
by  pipes  to  the  diflcrent  parts  of  the  city,  and  in  the  public  square  is 
to  be  a  fountain  and  jet  d'eau^  which  will  be  both  ornarr  'ntal  and 
useful.     The  principal  church  at  Chihuahua  was  the  most  superl> 
building  we  saw  in  New  Spain.     Its  vhole  front  was  covered  with 
statues  of  the  apostles  and  the  different  saints,  set  in  niches  of 
the  wall,  and  the  windows,  doors,  &c.  ornamented  with  sculptu  v. 
I  never  was  within  the  doors,  but  was  informed  by  Bohinson  that  i.ie 
decorations  were  immensely  rich.     Some  men,  whom  wc  supposed 
entitled  to  credit,  informed  us  that  the  church  was  built  by  u  tax  of 
12  1-3  cents  laid  on  each   ingot  of  gold  or  silver  taken  oiit  of  the 
mines  in  the  vicinity  in  — —  years.     Its  cost,  with  decorations,  w!»9 
1,500,000  dollars,  and  when  it  was  finished  there  remained  300,000 
dollars  of  the  fund  unappropriated.     At  the  south  side  of  Chiliua- 
hua  is  the   public  walk,  formed  by  three   rows  of  trees  whose 
branches  nearly  entwined  over  the  heads  of  the  passengers  below. 
At  different  distances  there  are  seats  for  persons  to  repose  them- 
selves on.     At  each  end  of  the  walks  there  were  cir.  ^^t  seats,  on 
.       Qf  Biscay  tn*)l  which,  in  the  evening,  the  company  collected  and  i  ;k  ised  them- 
•    h    may  be  Spaw^  selves  with    the  guitar,  songs  hi  Spanish,  Italian,  and  Frenchi 
c         entieths  Metiw  adapted  to  the  voluptuous  manners  of  the  country.    In  this  city,  as 
Q  yfas  foundeJwell  as  all  others  of  any  consideration,  there  are  patroles  of  soldiers 
f      vernment  for  tMduring  the  night,  who  stop  every  person  at  9  o'clock  and  examine 
°      .    eo.    l^s  popuUlthem.     My  countersign  was  "  Americans." 

ituated  in  25*  ^        Trade,    Commerce,    and    Manufactures. — Biscay   trades   with 

iMorth  .Mexico,  Senora,  and  the  vice-royalty,  from  the  latter  of  which 

1       c  \\    Sierra  Madtilthey  bring  on  mules  all  their  dry  goods,  European  furniture,  books, 

■  limmunition.  Sec.     They  furnish  a  great  quantity  of  horses,  mules, 

mtnandant  geiiiheep,  beeves,  goats,  &c.  to  the  parts  of  the  kingdom  which  arc 

•    \M\  is  situatedluore  populous  and  have  less  spare  ground  for  pasturage,  &c.  Some 

f     *      \  tion  may  be  elersons  make  large  fortunes  by  being  the  carriers  from  Mexico  to 
Is  pop  .        1^ 

In  the  east  side  oi  * 


ices  of  the  physical 
corded.    Theycorae 
,nue  about  a  fortnight 
^alk  in  their  house* 
or  examine  the  bed- 
„  to  bed,  after  whiCA 

Uartotheprecautt«m 
ite  of  those  scorpion 
The  most  extract. 
,n  leagues  from  Duran. 

all  theiv  vencmous 
of  air,  sustenance, - 


oil 


i  il! 


i 


i'"- 


32 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  III. 


¥.u 


Chihuahua,  the  freight  being  eight  dollars  per  cwt.  and  they  gene< 
rally  put  300  pounds  on  each  mule.  The  mercliants  make  their 
remittances  twice  a  year  in  bullion.  Goods  sell  at  Chihuahua  about 
200  per  cent  on  the  prices  of  our  Atlantic  sea  port  towns.  Their 
horses  average  at  six  dollars,  but  some  have  sold  as  high  as  100 : 
their  trained  mules  at  20  dollars  ;  but  extraordinary  matches  for  car* 
riages  have  sold  at  400  dollars  per  pair.  Rice  sells  at  four  dollars 
per  cwt. 

They  manufacture  some  few  arms,  blankets,  stamped  leather, 
embroidery,  coarse  cotton  and  woollen  cloths,  and  a  species  of  rough 
carpeting.  Their  blankets  average  two  dollars,  but  some  sell  as 
high  as  25  dollars. 

Agriculture. — They  cultivate  wheat,  corn,  rice,  oats,  cotton, 
flax,  indigo,  and  vines.  What  I  have  said  relative  to  the  cultivation 
of  those  articles  in  New  Mexico  will  equally  apply  to  this  province, 
but  it  may  be  proper  to  observe  here  that  one  of  Nolan's  men  con- 
structed the  first  cotton  gin  they  ever  had  in  the  province,  and  that 
Walker  had  caused  a  few  churns  to  be  made  for  some  private  fami- 
lies, and  taught  them  the  use  of  them. 

Timber^  Plains  and  Soil. — To  the  north  of  Chihuahua,  about  30 
miles  to  the  right  of  the  main  road,  there  is  some  pine  timber,  and 
at  a  spring  on  this  side  of  Carracal  we  saw  one  walnut-tree,  and  on 
all  the  small  streams  there  are  shrubby  cotton-trees.  With  these 
few  exceptions  the  whole  province  is  a  naked,  barren  plain,  which 
presents  to  the  eye  an  arid,  unproductive  soil,  and  more  especially 
in  the  neighborhood  of  mines  ;  even  the  herbage  appears  to  be  poi- 
soned by  the  mineral  qualities  of  the  soil. 

Antiquities. — There  are  none  in  the  province  which  came 
within  my  notice  but  the  Jesuits'  college  and  church  at  Chihuahua, 
which  were  about  a  century  old,  and  are  used  as  hospitals.  In 
these  there  was  nothing  peculiar,  except  a  certain  solidity  and 
strength,  which  appeared  to  surpass  the  other  public  buildings  of 
the  nity. 

Aborigines.— 'Hhcrt  are  no  uncivilized  savages  in  this  province  I  rece 
except  the  Appaches,  of  whom  I  have  spoken  largely.  (Vide  Ap.  to  I  per 
Part  III.  p.  10.)  The  Christian  Indians  are  so  incorporated  amongst  Icivijl 
the  lower  grades  of  metifs  that  it  is  scarcely  possible  to  draw  the  line  I  the  iJ 
of  distinction,  except  at  the  ranelios  of  some  nobleman  or  large  land-  |')atioJ 
holder,  where  they  are  in  a  state  of  vassalage.     This  class  of  peo' 
pic  laid  a  conspiracy,  which  was  so  well  concerted  as  to  baffle  the  I'armc 
inquiries  of  the  Spaniards  for  a  length  of  time,  and  to  occasion I'vher 
them  the  loss  of  several  hundred  of  the  inhabitants.    The  Indians pcarcij 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  III. 


23 


nd  they  gene- 
ts make  their 
lihuahua  about 
towns.    Their 
high  aa  100 : 
matches  for  car- 
J  at  four  doUars 

itamped  leather. 


species 


of  rough 


but  some  sell  as 

ice,  oats,  cotton, 
to  the  cultivation 
« to  this  province, 
Nolan'smen  con- 
province,  and  that 
some  private  fatni- 

:hihuahua,  about  30 
^e  pine  umber,  and 

iwalnut-tree,  and  on 

trees.    With  these 

barren  pl^n,v,hich 

aul  more  especially 
•e  appears  to  be  poL- 

Lince  vrhich   came 
Lurch  at  Chihuahua, 
led  as  hospitals.     1" 
I  certain  solidity  and 
public  buildings  ot 

Les  in  this  province 
largely.  (VWeAp.  to 
tcorporatedamongs 
LbletodrawtheUne 
Leman  or  large  land- 

1      This  class  of  peo 
erted  as  to  baffle  the 

time,  and  to  occasion 
Ltants.    Thelndiansl 


used  to  go  out  from  their  villages  in  small  parties :  in  a  short  time 
a  part  would  return  with  the  report  that  they  had  been  attacked  by 
the  Indians  ;  the  Spaniards  would  immediately  send  out  a  detach- 
ment in  pursuit,  when  they  were  led  into  an  ambuscade  and  every 
soul  cut  off.  They  pursued  this  course  so  long  that  the  whole  pro- 
vince became  alarmed  at  the  rapid  manner  in  which  their  enemies 
multiplied ;  bui.  some  circumstances  leading  to  a  suspicion,  they 
made  use  of  the  superstition  of  those  people  for  their  ruin.  Some 
officers  disguised  themselves  like  friars  and  went  round  amongst 
the  Indiana,  pretending  to  be  possessed  of  the  spirit  of  prophecy. 
They  preached  up  to  the  Indians  that  the  oay  was  approaching 
when  a  general  deliverance  from  the  Spanish  tyranny  was  about  to 
take  place,  and  invited  the  Indians  to  join  in  concerting  with  them 
the  work  of  God.  The  poor  creatures  came  forward,  and  in  their 
confessions  stated  the  great  hand  that  had  already  been  put  to  the 
work.  After  these  pretended  friars  had  ascertained  the  nature  and 
extent  of  the  conspire cy,  and  had  a  body  of  troops  prepared,  they 
commenced  the  execution  and  put  to  death  about  400  of  the  unsus- 
pecting Indians.  This  struck  terror  and  dismay  through  the  Indian 
villages,  and  they  dared  not  rise  and  declare  their  freedom  and  inde- 
pendence. 

Government  and  Za?»«.— In  this  province  there  is  some  sha- 
dow of  civil  law  ;  but  it  is  merely  a  shadow,  as  the  following  anec- 
dote may  illustrate.  An  officer,  on  arriving  at  a  village,  demanded 
quarters  for  himself  and  troops.  The  supreme  civil  officer  of  the 
place  sent  him  word  that  he  must  show  his  passport.  The  military 
officer  immediately  sent  a  file  of  men,  who  brought  the  judge  a  pri- 
soner before  him,  when  he  severely  reprimanded  the  judge  for  his 
insolence  and  obliged  him  to  obey  his  orders  instantly.  This  has 
been  done  by  a  subaltern,  in  a  c<*y  of  20,000  inhabitants.  The  only 
laws  which  can  be  said  to  be  in  force  are  the  military  and  ecclesias- 
tic, hetween  which  there  is  a  perfect  understanding. 

The  governor  is  a  brigadier-general,  resides  at  Durango,  and 
receives  5000  dollars,  in  addition  to  his  pay  in  the  line.  It  is  pro- 
per to  observe  that  there  are  ordinances  to  bear  on  each  subject  of 
civil  discussion,  but  the  administration  of  them  is  so  corrupt,  that 
the  influence  of  family  and  fortune  generally  procure  the  determi- 
nation that  they  have  right  on  their  side. 

In  each  town  is  a  public  magazir.e  for  provisions,  where  every 
farmer  brings  whatever  grain  and  produce  he  may  have  for  sale, 
where  he  is  sure  to  meet  with  a  market ;  and  should  there  be  a 
scarcity  the  ensuing  year,  it  is  retailed  out  to  the  inhabitants  at  a 


■'■'^ 


-lii  i 

■ 

i,,;'. 

1 

f 

Bv 


24 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  III. 


m 


ML.  / 


reasonable  rate.    To  this  place  all  the  citizens  of  the  town  repair  to 
purchase. 

Morula,  Manners,  isfc. — There  is  nothing  peculiar  in  the  man- 
ners or  morals  of  the  people  of  this  province,  but  a  mucli  greater 
degree  of  luxury  among  the  rich,  misery  among  the  poor,  and  a 
corruption  of  morals  more  general  than  in  New  Mexico.  As  to 
military  spirit  they  have  none.  At  a  muster  of  a  regiment  of  mili- 
tia  at  Chihuahua  one  of  my  men  attended,  and  informed  me  that 
there  were  about  25  who  had  lire>arms  and  lances,  50  with  bows  and 
arrows  and  lances,  and  the  balance  with  lances  or  bows  and  arrows 
only. 

Military  Force.-— -The  regular  military  force  of  Biscay  consists 
of  1  Too  dragoons,  distributed  as  follows :  On  the  frontiers  of  the 
deserts  of  New  Mexico  and  Senora,  at  the  forts  of  Elisiaira,  Carra* 
cal,  and  San  Buenaventura,  Presidio  del  Norte,  Janos,  Tulenos,  and 
San  Juan  Baptist.  Farther  south  are  Chihuahua,  Jeronime,  Cay* 
one,  San  Paubla,  Guaxequillo,and  Conchos,  with  several  other  places 
which  are  appendages  of  those  positions.  The  complement  of  each 
of  those  posts  is  150  men,  but  may  be  averaged  at  1 100  in  all,  say 
100  at  each  post.    The  militia  are  not  worthy  of  particular  notice. 

Regi lion. —.Biscay  is  in  the  diocese  of  Durango,  the  bishop'^ 
salary  being  estimated  at  100,000  dpllars  per  annum.  The  catholic 
religion  is  here  in  its  full  force,  but  the  inferior  clergy  are  very 
much  dissatisfied.  The  people's  superstition  is  so  great  that  they 
arc  running  after  the  holy  father  in  the  streets,  and  endeavoring  to 
kiss  the  hem  of  his  garment,  and  should  the  bishop  be  passing  the 
street,  the  rich  and  poor  all  kn«el. 

Hiatory.—-l  shall  not  presume  to  say  any  thing  on  this  subject 
except  that  I  believe  this  province  has  been  populated  about  270 
years. 

Geografihy. — Senoua  lies  between  the  33"  and  27°  N.  latitude 
and  1 10°  and  1 17°  W.  longitude.     Its  greatest  length  from  north  to 
south  is  about  420  miles,  and  its  width  from  cast  to  west  380  miles.  | 
It  is  bounded  north  by  New  Mexico,  west  by  California,  south  by  Si* 
naloa  and  the  gulf,  east  by  Biscay  and  New  Mexico.      tum^Cq  qj 

•  jlir  and  Climate. — Dry,  pure,  and  healthy  generally,  but  near! 
the  gulf  the  ground  is  marshy,  and  it  is,  in  some  of  the  districts,  | 
unhealthy. 

Minesy  Minerals,  and  Fossils.— On  this  subject  I  can  only  spcakl 
in  general.  Senora  abounds  in  rich  gold  and  silver  mines,  but  morel 
especially  the  former,  inasmuch  as  the  gold  does  not  preserve  itsi 
usual  exchange  with  silver  in  this  proTixice.    General  Salcedo  tolif 


■ii|£*^ 


ml- 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  III. 


95 


ii 


uie  that  in  this  province  the  hii-(^est  piece  of  pure  gold  had  been 
found  ever  yet  discovered  in  New  Spain,  and  tliat  it  had  been  sent  to 
the  kin};  to  be  put  in  Ids  cabinet  of  curiosities,  &c 

Jiivera.— li'io  de  I'Ascencion  is  a  short  river  which  enters  the 
gulf  of  California  about  the  31*  N.  latitude. 

Uio  Yaqui  heads  on  the  borders  of  Uiscay  and  Senora  and  dis- 
charges itself  into  the  gulf  of  California  at  Guyamas  at  the  28^ 
N.  latitude. 

Timber,  Plains,  and  Soil. — This  province  is,  like  Biscay,  desti* 
tute  of  timber,  but  has  some  rich  soil  near  t.ie  gulf. 

jinimala. — There  arc  deer,  cabrie,  and  bear ;  there  are  also  re- 
markably large  lizards,  which  arc  said  to  weigh  ten  pounds,  and 
are  perfectly  hanniess,  tamed  by  the  inhabitants  and  trained  to 
catch  mice. 

Pofiulation  and  Chief  Towns. — The  population  of  Senora  may 
be  estimated  at  200,000  souls,  of  which  three-twe.itieths  probably 
are  Spaniards,  four-tweniieths  Creoles,  six-twentieths  MetifS)  and 
seven-twentieths  Indians. 

Arispea,  the  capit.^1  of  Senora,  and  until  20  years  past  the 
seat  of  government  of  the  internal  provinces,  is  situated  in  3 1°  N< 
latitude  and  1 1 1°  W.  longitude,  near  the  head  of  the  river  Yaqui. 
It  is  celebrated  throughout  the  kingdom  for  the  urbanity  and  hospi- 
tality of  its  inhabitants  and  the  vast  quantity  of  gold  table  utensils 
made  use  of  in  their  houses.     Its  population  is  3,400  souls. 

Sonora  and  Terena^e  are  the  next  cities  in  magnitude  in  the 
province,  the  latter  to  the  north  and  the  former  to  the  south  of  the 
capital. 

Trade  and  Commerce. — Senora  trades  with  New  Mexico  and 
^  "a  about  270  B  Biscay  for  the  productions  of  those  different  provinces,  and  with 
^  Old  Mexico  both  by  laud  and  sea,  through  the  gulf  of  California. 

It  is  celebrated  for  its  cheese,  horses,  and  sheep. 

jigriculture. — They  cultivate  the  same  as  in  Biscay. 

uiborigine8.—T][itv&  are  a  number  of  savage  nations  bordering 

n  Senora,  which  oblige  the  king  to  keep  up  a  number  of  military 

sts  on  the  north  and  western  frontiers  ;  but  the  names  of  the 

ribes,  or  any  of  their  distinguished  characters,  I  am  unacquainted 

ith  ;  however,  it  may  not  be  improper  to  observe  that  they  are 

irmed  with  bows,  arrows,  shield  and  lance,  like  their  savage  ncigh- 

rs.    The  civilized  Indians  are  in  the  same  situations  as  in  the 

er  provinces. 

Government  and  Xaw9.<«-Similar  to  Biscay,  the  governor  bC" 

19; 


rn  repair  to 

in  the  man- 
ucb  greater 
poor,  and  a 
xico.    As  to 
nent  of  miU- 
n\ed  me  that 
^vith  bows  and 
vs  and  arrows 

aiscay  consists 
rontievs  of  the 
•Usiaira,  Carra- 
8  Tulenos,  a"^ 
Jeronitne,  Cay- 
era\  other  places 
pletnentofeach 
t  \  100  in  all,  say 
rlicular  notice.  ^ 
jgcthe  bishops 
The  catholic 
.  "clergy  are  very 


great 


that  they 


k\  endeavoring  to 
op  be  passing  the 


ngon 


this  subject 


>>^  ^»K' 


Ind  27«  N.  laliW'^" 
,^lh  from  north  to 

I  to  west  380  miles. 

fgeneraUy,  but  near 
,^e  of  the  districts, 

lectl  can  only  spcal^l 
U  mines,  but  morel 

js  not  preserve  i« 
leneral  Sa^cedo  tol^ 


mi 


if      j 


mlm,  '■^:n 


iiiiP 


:l!^^ 


h 


26 


appendix:  to  part  hi. 


t/   6>- 


P7        « 


M 


»  i     -li     -   ?       * 


1^ 


'<i 


ing  a  brigadier-general  and  receives  7000  dollars,  in  addition  to  his 
pay  in  the  line. 

Morals  aud  Mannera. — In  every  respect  similar  to  Uijscay,  ex- 
cept that  they  are  more  celebrated  for  hospitality. 

Military  Force. — ^The  regular  military  force  of  this  province  is 
900  dragoons  md  200  infantry,  stationed  as  follows :  Tubson,  San 
Cruz,  'J'ubac,  and  Altac  on  the  nortli,  with  100  dragoons  each  for  a 
garrison  ;  F  unlenas,  Bacuachi,  Bavista,  and  Horcasites  in  the  cen- 
tre, with  3C";  dit  agoons  and  200  infantry ;  Buenavista  on  the  south, 
with  100  dragoons  as  a  garrison.  The  infantry  mentioned  above 
are  of  a  i|ation  of  Indians  called  the  Opejas,  and  are  said  to  be  the 
best  soldiers  in  New  Spain.  I  saw  a  detachment  of  them  at  Chi- 
huahua who  appeared  to  be  fine,  stout,  athletic  men,  and  were  the 
most  subordinate  and  faithful  troops  I  ever  knew,  acting  like  a  band 
of  brothers  and  having  the  greatest  att&.,hment  for  their  ofiicers. 

/ff/ijv'on.— Catholic  in  the  diocese  of  the  bishop  of  Durango. 

History— \  am  unacquainted  with,  except  that  the  seat  of  go* 
vernment  of  the  internal  provinces  was  formerly  at  Arispea,  at 
which  time  the  government  of  California  was  also  under  the  com- 
tnandant-generalcy  of  the  internal  provinces  ;  but  the  removal  of 
the  seat  of  government  to  Chihuahua  and  the  disjunct  situation  of 
California  induced  his  majesty  to  annex  it  to  the  government  of  the 
vice-iV>yalty.  The  increasing  magnitude  of  the  relations  of  New 
Spain  with  the  United  States  also  gave  an  importance  to  the  easten 
interests  which  induced  the  continuance  of  the  seat  of  government 
at  Chihuahua. 

Geography . — Sikaloa  lies  between  the  23**  and  28°  N.  latitadej 
atid  108°  and  111*  W.  longitude  and  is  bounded  north  by  Senoraj 
and  Biscay,  erJt  by  the  latter,  south  by  the  administration  t>f  Guadii' 
laxara,  and  west  by  the  gulf  of  California,  and  in  its  greatest  lengi 
is  300  miles,  north  and  south,  and  in  width  from  east  to  west  I5i 
miles. 

Mr  and  Climate. — On  the  sea  coast  humid,  but  back  dry  ani 
pure. 

Mtnea,  Minerals,  and  Fossils.— There  are  both  gold  and  silvi 
tnines ;  but  as  to  their  relative  value  or  productions,  I  am  unacj 
quaintcd. 

Rivers.-^K\o  Fuerte  takes  its  source  in  27°  N.  latitude 
1 10°  VV.  longitude  and  disembogues  itself  into  the  gulf  of  C 
fornia.    It  crosses  the  whole  province  and  is  nearly  150  miles  Ici 

Rio  Culican  is  not  more  than  50  miles  in  length  and  enters 
gulf  of  California  iii  25°  N.  latitude.  war 


nits 
ischaj 

erei] 
tha 


WiW' 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  III. 


99 


Timber^  Platna,  and  5o//.->No  timber ;  soil  similar  to  Senora. 

jhiimah  .—Domestic  only. 

Pofiutation  and  Chief  Townt. -^lii  population  may  be  estimated 
at  60,000,  not  more  than  three-twentieths  of  whom  are  Spaniards ; 
the  remainder  Creoles,  Metifs,  and  Indians. 

Sinaloa  is  the  capital,  but  its  population,  extent,  &c.  to  me  is 
unknown. 

Trade  and  Commerre— Unacquainted  with. 

jigriculture. — The  same  as  Senora. 

jiboTiginet.—'ifioti^  who  are  not  :ivilized. 

Government  and  X.aw«— Unacquainted  with. 

Military  Force.— One  hundred  dragoons  for  expresses  and  a 
guard  for  the  governor. 

ReUgion. — Catholic  in  the  diocese  of  the  bishop  of  Durango. 

History. — ^To  me  unknown. 

Geography. — The  province  of  Cogquilla  lies  between  the  3 1° 
and  33"  30^  N.  latitude  and  lOi''  and  105°  W.  longitude,  and  its 
greatest  length  north  and  south  may  be  500  miles,  and  in  its  great- 
est width  east  and  west  200  miles.  It  is  bounded  north  by  New 
Mexico  and  Texas*  east  by  the  latter,  San  Ander,  and  New  Leon, 
south  by  the  administration  of  Zacataca,  and  west  by  Biscay. 

j^ir  and  C//ma/r.— Pure  and  healthy,  except  about  tlie  middle* 

of  May,  when  the  heat  is  intense,  and  sometimes  a  scorching  wind 

is  felt,  like  the  flame  issuing  from  an  oven  or  furnace,  which  fre- 

""      £  jrovernmeniH  quently  skins  the  face  and  affects  the  eyes.    This  phenomenon  is 

felt  more  sensibly  &bout  the  setting  of  the  sun  than  at  any  other 

o     d  28°  N>  lat&tndcl  period  of  the  twenty-four  hours. 

'  A  A  north  by  SenonB       Mineti  MineraUt  and  Fo9fil9. — I  know  of  no  mines  in  this  pro- 

'^.^.  .  .(ionof (^u^^V>nce,  except  at  Mpntielovez   and  San  Rosa,  with  the  valtie  of 

"*•"  't  Bveatest  lengtlBwhich  I  am  unacquainted  ;  Iwt  those  of  San  Rosa  are  reputed  to 

"     „..  lowest  ISVbeasrlch  fa  any  silver  mines  in  the  kingdom.    Montelovez  has 
from  e»**  *■  ■  -j     ui 

ione  very  considerable. 

Rivera. — This  province  has  no  river  of  magnitude  or  conse- 

[uence  but  the  Rio  Grande,  which  crosses  its  northern  part  in  a 

iuth-ea«t  direction. 

Laket. — There  is  a  ymall  lake,  called  the  Aqua  Verde,  situated 

|n  its  western  extremities,  which  gives  rise  to  a  small  stream  that 

ischavges  itself  into  the  Rio  del  Norte. 

Timber^  Plaint^  and  Soil^ — From  the  river  Nassus  to  the  east 

inw  "••"^^^  miles  loAere  is  the  palmetto,  which  grows  to  ^e  height  of  30  and  25  feet, 

L'^fr.,  Jth  and  enters  t)f  th  a  trunk  of  two  feet  diameter.    Its  leaves  are  in  tlie  shape  of  a 

ar,  and  cover  all  the  trunk  vrhen  young,  but  fall  off  as  the  tree 


addition  to  his 
ir  to  Biscay,  ex- 

I  this  province  is 
,g.  Tubson,  San 
,<,oon3  each  for  a 
-Isitesintbecen- 

iHta  on  the  south, 
mentioned  above 
Ure  said  to  be  the 
■ntof  thematChi- 
men^andwetethc 
,  acting  like  a  band 
for  their  officers. 

ishop  of  Durango. 
that  the  seat  of  go. 
nerly  at  Avispca,  at 
also  under  the  com- 
.  but  the  removal  0 
disjunct  situauooo 

.egoverntnentof^^ 
the  relattons  of  Nevi 
ortance  to  the  eastern 


Ud,  but  back  dry  anj 

,re  both  gold  and  silv 
koductions,laTnun« 


i„  37°  N.  latitude 
into  the  gulf  of  ^ 


:iiiii,;(r 


m 


length  and ' 


^i|:'l 


•  Y--"j^ 


sa 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  III. 


4 


;ll-'   ' 


III  ■ 


-4 


n 
1 


grows  old.  Its  wood  is  of  a  spongy  nature,  and  from  every  infor- 
maiion  I  could  pvo'^ure,  i?  of  the  same  species  as  that  of  the  same 
name  in  the  southern  states.  One  hundred  miles  to  the  east  ol  the 
Rio  Grande,  oak  timbci'  commenced,  being  the  first  we  had  seen  in 
the  pvoviHces  ;  'w:  it  was  very  small  and  scrubby,  iir.rl  pivsdntcd, 
from  this  to  the  'me  of  Texas  (the  river  Ma.iaiia),  s.  very  |/(;iccpa- 
ble  grada'.ion  of  the  increase  of  limber,  both  ii-  rui  irii:/,  luxiirianre. 
and  variety.  The  country  now  hecam<  very  sitnilav  ir>  the  Tndi  sn 
territoi-y. 

Animah.-  D -ir,  wild  horses,  a  fev  biiflTalo  ;  -kI  wild  hogs. 

Po/tulation  and  Chief  J'qw  ":.?.— Montciovez  is  the  capital  of 
Cogquiila.  It  is  situited  on  a  small  stream  of  .vfjcr  in  26°  30'  N 
latitude  and  103°  3(y  VV.  longitude.  I.  is  nh<  ut  one  milt  in  !<  .igthj 
on  a  course  N.  70°  E.  by  the  main  strcot.  It  hab  two  pubiic  Ejuarrs, 
Rcven  churches,  a  powder  magazine,  mills,  king's  hospit^  >,  snd  quar* 
^eJ  de!  tropa.  This  is  the  principal  military  'lop.ot  ft-r  the  provinces 
of  Co^rj-.nlla  anu  Texas.  Its  population  may  be  estimated  at  3.500 
sou^s;  This  city  being  the  stated  residence  of  his  excellency  go- 
Vfinoi  Cordcio,  he  has  ornamented  it  with  public  walks,  columns, 
and  fountains,  and  made  it  one  of  the  handsomest  cities  in  the  inter- 
nal provinces. 

Santa  Rosa  is  about  38  miles  to  the  north-west  of  Montelovez, 
is  represented  to  be  the  most  healthy  situation  in  the  province,  and 
to  have  the  best  water  end  fruit.    It  is  on  the  head  waters  of  the 
river  Millada.     Its  population  is  represented  at  4,000  souls.    Paras 
is  situated  on  a  small  stream  ;  with  its  suburbs  it  is  supposed  to  con- 
tain 7000  souls,  and  San  Lorenzo,  three  miles  to  the  north,  five  | 
hundred  souls.     This  place  may  be  termed  the  vineyard  of  Cog- 
quilla,  the  whole  population  pursuing  no  other  occupation  than  the! 
cultivation  of  the  grape.    Its  name  denotes  the  Branches  of  tk\ 
Vine.    At  the  Hacienda  of  San  Lorenzo,  where  we  halted,  there  I 
were  fifteen  larger  stills,  large  cellars,  and  a  greater  number  ofl 
casks  than  I  ever  saw  in  any  brewery  of  the  United  States.   Its  gar-f 
dens  were  delightfully  interspersed  with  figs,  vines,  apricots,  and  a| 
variety  of  fruits  which  are  produced  in  the  torrid  zone  ;  fine  sum| 
xner-houses,  where  were  wine,  refreshments,  and  couches  to  reposej 
on  and  where  the  singing  of  the  birds  was  delightful. 

There  were,  likewise,  mills  and  a  fine  water-fall.  Thcpresidiij 
of  Rio  Grande  is  situated  on  that  river,  and  is  remarkable  for  nol 
thing  but  three  or  four  handsome  missions  with  which  it  is  suij 
rounded,  a  powder  magazine,  quarters  for  the  troops,  and  a  few  iroi 
field-pieces  on  miserable  truck  carriages.    Population  2,500  soulil 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  III. 


99 


,vn  every  infov- 
lat  of  the  same 
,  the  cast  ol  the 

we  had  seen  in 
■  .,,,,1  prcsfentea, 

,,  yery  jici'^epa- 

,fl  wiUl  hogs. 

is  the   capital  of 

,ne  m«^  ^'^  ^*  '^5^^*'^ 
two  n«hlic  K:\uaiT8, 

at  lor  the  province* 
5  estiinated  at  3,500 
his  exceUency  go- 
bUc  walks,  columns, 
s\  cities  in  the  inter- 

kcst  of  Montelovez, 


in 


..  the  province,  and 
head  waters  of  the 
4,000  souls.    Paras' 


The  population  of  this  province  may  be  estimated  at  70,000  souls, 
not  more  than  10,000  of  whom  are  Spaniards. 

Trade^  Commerce^  and  Manufacturf9.—'VK\i  province  receives 
all  its  merchandise  from  Mexico  by  land,  and  in  return  gives  horses, 
mules,  vines,  gold,  and  silver.  There  is  an  annual  fair  held  at  Sal- 
telo,  in  New  Leon,  where  there  is  an  immense  qunntity  of  merchan- 
dise disposed  of,  and  where  merchants  of  very  large  capitals  reside. 

jlgrictilture. —  They  cultivate  the  vine  principally  with  grain 
and  corn  sufficient  for  their  own  consumption,  and  to  supply  the 
greatest  part  of  Texas. 

Moriginea. — The  Appaches  cover  their  north-west  frontier. 
The  Lee  Pawnees  are  a  nation  who  rove  from  the  Rio  Grande  to 
some  distance  into  the  province  of  Texas.  Their  former  residence 
was  on  the  Rio  Grande,  near  the  sea  shore.  They  are  at  present 
divided  into  three  bands,  of  300,  350,  and  100  men  each.  They  arc 
at  war  with  the  Tetaus  and  Appaches,  and  at  peace  with  the  Spani- 
ards. They  have  fair  hair,  and  are  generally  handsome,  armed  with 
bows,  arrows,  and  lances.  They  pursue  the  wild  horses,  of  which 
they  take  numbers,  and  sell  them  to  the  Spaniards. 

Government  and  Zaws.— Military  and  ecclesiastical  power  is 
all  that  is  known  or  acknowledged  in  this  province  ;  but  its  admi- 
nistration was  mild  under  their  excellent  govenior  Cordero.  The 
governor's  civil  salary  is  4000  dollars  per  annum. 

Moralt  and  Manners.-^lt  was  evident,  to  the  least  discerning 
eye,  that  as  we  diverged  from  these  parts  which  produced  such  vast 
quantities  of  the  precious  metals,  the  inhabitants  became  more  in- 


U  is  supposed  to  con- 

V,     north   five  ■ 'lustrious  and  there  were  fewer  beggars.    Thus  the  morals  of  the 


es 


^       ,       ,    \  of  CogB  P®°P'®  of  Cogquilla  were  less  corrupt  than  those  of  Biscay  or  New 
the  vin  y       ^^^^^j,jB  Leon,  their  neighbors. 

Military  Force. — There  are  400  dragoons  maintained  in  this 


r  occupation 


n        he»  of  them        imntary  rorce. —  1  here  are  4uu  aragoons  mamtamed  m  tnis 

^     .      .   ,.  ^j   there!  province,  and  stationed  at  Montelovez,  San  Ross^  Pres.  Rio  del 

®'®^.!^ater^umber  ol  Norte,  San  Fernandez. 

*  •    A  «it  tes    Itsgai^'l        Religion, — Catholic,  but  mild.  It  is  in  the  diocese  of  Durango. 

•  *  ricots,  and  al       /fiWori/.— Cogquilla  had  not  pushed  its  population  as  far  as  the 

^'      '       •  fine  sum-lRio  Grande  in  the  year  1 687,  as  at  that  lime  La  Salle  established 

^^^A        -uea  to  reposelhimself  at  the  entrance  of  that  river,  it  being  a  wilderness;  but 

*"        .  IMontelovcz  was  established  some  time  before  this  era.     Of  its  par- 

f  U    The4)residiiiPcular  history  I  have  no  knowledge. 

^^^'       rkable  for  nol       Geografihy. — The  province  of  Texas  lies  bctAveen  27°  30'  and 

^*  -^     hich  it  is  sutls"  N.  latitude  and  98°  and  104°  \V.  longitude,  bordered  north  by 

^^  and  a  few  irAouisiana,  east  by  the  territory  of  Orleans,  west  by  Cogquilla  and 

'®      ,    -'^gsoo  soulwew  Mexico,  and  south  by  New  San  Andcr.     Its  greatest  length 
Population  *»^"  ■ 


;!■*' 


lir 


ijiilil 


30 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  HI, 


m  ': 


from  north  to  louth  may  be  $00  miles,  and  breadth  from  eaat  to 
west  350. 

ulir  and  CUmate^^Ont  of  the  moat  delightful  temperatures  in 
the  world)  but,  being  a  country  covered  with  timber,  the  new  emi- 
grants are  generally  sickly,  which  may  justly  be  attributed  to  pu- 
trescent vegetation,  which  brings  on  intermittent  and  bilious  attacks, 
and,  in  some  instances,  malignant  fevers.  The  justice  of  these  re- 
marks are  proved  by  the  observations  of  all  the  first  settlers  of  our 
western  frontiers,  that  places  which,  in  the  course  of  ten  or  fifteen 
years,  become  perfectly  healthy,  were,  the  first  two  or  three  years, 
quite  the  reverse,  and  generally  cost  them  the  loss  of  two  or  three 
members  of  their  families. 

JMineat  Mineraltf  and  fo9uU.-^Thti  only  one  known  and  worked 
is  a  mine  of  lead. 

Eiver»,'-^Th&  river  St.  Antonio  takes  its  source  about  one 
league  to  the  north-east  of  the  c&pital  of  the  province  (St.  Antonio) 
and  is  navigable  for  canoes  to  its  source,  affording  excellent  fish, 
fine  mill  seats,  and  water  to  eveiy  partof  the  town.  It  is  joined  by 
the  river  Mariana  from  the  west,  which  forms  part  of  the  line  be- 
tween Cogquilla  and  Texas,  and  then  discharges  itself  into  the  Rio 
Guadelupe  about  50  miles  fram  the  sea.  At  the  town  of  St.  An- 
tonio it  is  about  twenty  yards  wide,  and,  in  some  places,  twelve  feet 
in  depth.  The  river  Guadelupe  takes  its  source  about  1 50  miles 
to  the  north-west  of  St.  Antonio,  where  we  crossed  it :  it  was  a 
beautiful  stream,  of  at  least  sixty  yards  in  width.  Its  waters  are 
transparent  and  navigable  for  canoes.  After  receiving  the  wuters 
of  the  St.  Antonio  and  St.  Marco  it  discharges  itself  into  the  south- 
west  end  of  the  bay  of  St.  Bernardo.  At  the  crossing  of  this  river 
there  is  a  range  for  the  horses  of  St.  Antonio  and  .  "  guarde  de 
cabailo,"  with  an  elegant  site  for  a  town. 

The  river  St.  Marco  takes  its  source  about  100  miles  north,  j 
twenty  west  of  St.  Antonio,  and  at  the  crossing  of  the  road  is  thirty 
yards  in  width ;  a  clear  and  navigable  stream  for  canoes.    By  the 
road  this  river  is  only  fourteen  miles  from  the  Guadelupe,  into] 
which  it  discharges  itself. 

The  Red  river  takes  its  source  in  the  province  of  Cogquilla  inl 
53°  N.  latitude  and  104°  SO'  W.  longitude,  but  bending  to  the  east,! 
enters  the  province  of  Texas,  and,  after  a  winding  course  of  abou| 
600  miles,  disembogues  itself  into  the  bay  of  St.  Bernard,  in  the  29'| 
N.  latitude.  Where  the  i  oad  traverses  it  was  at  least  1 50  yard^ 
wide,  and  has  a  guard  of  dragoons  stationed  on  its  banks.  Its  water 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  III. 


SI 


«re  of  8  reddish  cast,  from  whence  it.  probably  derived  its  name. 
This  stream  is  navigable  for  boats  of  three  or  four  tons  burden. 

The  river  Brassos  takes  its  source  In  the  province  of  Cogquilla 
in  34"  N.  latitude  and  105**  W.  longitude,  enters  the  province  of 
Texas,  and  discharges  itself  into  the  gulf  of  Mexico  ih  28"  40',  after 
a  course  of  750  miles.  It  is  the  largest  river  in  the  province,  and, 
where  the  road  crosses,  is  300  yards  wide  tnd  navigable  for  large 
keels.  From  the  appearance  on  its  banks  it  must  rise  and  fiUl  100 
feot  Its  waters  were  red  and  turbid,  its  banks  well  timbered,  and 
a  rich  proliBc  soil.  Here  was  kept  the  ortljr  boat  I  recollect  to  have 
seen  in  the  provinces. 

The  river  Trinity  takes  its  source  in  34®  N.  latitude  and  99"  W. 
longitude,  and  discharges  itself  into  Galueston's  bay  in  39"  30*  N.  la- 
titude. By  its  meanders  it  is  about  300  miles  in  length.  Where  the 
road  crosses  it  is  about  60  yards  in  width,  with  high,  steep  banks 
covered  with  timber  and  i  rich  luxuriant  soil. 

The  rivers  Nachez  and  Angelina  are  small  rivers,  of  about  30 
yards  in  width,  and  after  forming  a  junction,  discharge  themselves 
into  the  Trinity. 

The  river  Toyac  is  a  small  stream,  which  discharges  itself  into 
the  gulf  of  Mexico,  at  the  same  bay  with  the  Sabine,  in  about  29* 
SO'  N.  latitude  and  97"  W.  longitude. 

The  Sabine  river,  the  fireamt  limits  between  the  Spanish  domi- 
nions and  the  territories  of  the  United  States  in  that  quarter,  takes 
its  source  in  about  the  33"  N.  latitude,  and  enters  the  gulf  of  Mexi- 
co in  39"  50'.  It  may  be  300  miles  in  length  by  its  meam^^ers,  and 
at  the  road  about  50  yards  in  width.  Here  the  Spaniards  keep  a 
guard  and  ferry  boat. 

Lakes.-'Somc  small  ones  near  the  head  of  the  Guadelupe 

and  some  branches  of  Red  river. 

lies  north)  I         Timber ^  Plainsf  and  Soil. — This  province  is  well  timbered  for 

j*^^  A-^^  ^y^jrly  I  ^^^  miles  from  the  coast,  but  has  some  small  prairies  interspersed 

'^  es.    '^y  the  I  trough  its  timbered  land ;  but  take  it  generally,  it  is  one  of  the 

^^"^  *L     /igjijne,  into!  richest  and   most  prolific  and  best  watered  countries  in  North 

^"®  I  America. 

f  Coeqwi^^*  iol       jlnimala. — Buffalo,  deer,  elk,  wild  hogs,  and  wild  horses,  the 
>vince  ^^^  eaatillatter  of  which  are  in  such  numbers  as  to  afTor J  supplies  for  all  the 

it  ben  I  S       ^^  abottlPavages  who  border  on  the  province,  the  Spaniards,  and  vast  droves 
'^  ^^  29'lfor  the  other  provinces.    They  are  also  sent  into  the  United  States, 

St.  oe         ^  ^  50  yardiPotwithstanding  the  trade  is  contraband. 

'**        u     Its  wattJtl      They  go  in  such  large  gangs  that  it  is  requisite  to  keep  an  ad- 
bnit***        •  lanced  guard  of  horsemen,  in  order  to  frighten  them  away;  for 


I  from  e»rtto 

,inperaturesm 
J  the  new  emV- 
tribuied  topu- 

bUious  attacks, 
ice  of  these  re- 

aettlera  of  our 
of  ten  or  fifteen 
,o  or  three  years, 
a  of  two  or  three 

u»Qwn»»d  worked 

source  about  one 
rxnc»(St.A»^°^»^) 

,n.    Itisjovnedby 
part  of  the  line  be- 
,  itself  into  the  Rio 
the  town  of  St.  An. 
places,  twelve  feet 

^cea\>0tttl50mile» 

posted  if.  i^^*** 
dth.    Itsvjatersare 

eceiving  the  waters 
itself  into  the  south, 
crossing  of  this  nver 

and   -  «  g**'^^*  ^' 


f 
I 


m 


ii;fi  ■■    ■ :  II 


W^'A 


V.  9 

i 

la 


IK   i 


33 


APPKNPlX  TO  PART  III. 


thould  they  be  suffered  to  come  near  your  horses  and  mules  which 
you  drive  with  you,  by  their  snorting,  nei^hint?,  kc.  thoy  would 
aiur.n  them,  and  fVequeiUly  the  domestic  animals  would  join  them 
and  go  off,  nutwiihaumding  all  the  exertiotin  ot*  tiie  dragoons  lo  pre- 
vent them.  A  gentleman  told  me  he  saw  700  beastH  carried  off  at 
one  time,  not  one  of  which  waj  ever  recovered.  They  also  in  the 
night  frequently  carry  off  the  droves  of  travellers'  horses,  and  even 
come  within  a  few  miles  of  St.  Antonio,  and  take  off  the  horses  in 
the  vicinity. 

■  The  method  pursued  by  the  Spaniards  in  taking  them  is  as 
follows :  They  take  a  few  fleet  horses  and  proceed  into  the  country 
where  the  wild  horses  are  numerous.  They  then  build  a  large 
strong  enclosure,  with  a  door  which  enters  a  smaller  enclosure : 
from  the  entrance  of  the  large  pen  tbcy  project  wings  out  into  the 
pralrio  a  great  distance,  and  then  set  up  bushes,  8cc.  to  induce  the 
hoists,  wlien  pursued,  to  onter  into  these  wings.  After  these  pre- 
parations are  made  they  keep  a  look  out  for  a  small  drove,  for,  if 
they  unfortunately  should  start  too  large  a  one,  they  either  burst  open 
the  pen  >r  fill  it  up  with  dead  bodies,  and  the  others  run  over  thorn 
and  escape  ;  in  which  case  the  party  are  obliged  to  leave  the  place, 
as  the  stench  arising  from  the  putrid  carcases  would  be  insupporta- 
ble ;  and,  in  addition  to  this,  the  pen  would  not  receive  others. 
Should  they,  however,  succeed  in  driving  in  a  few,  say  two  or  threa 
hundred,  they  select  the  handsomest  and  youngest,  noose  them,  and 
I'ke  ^'hem  into  the  sitiall  enclosure,  then  turn  out  the  remainder, 
atier  which,  by  starving,  preventing  them  taking  any  repose,  and 
continually  keeping  them  in  motion,  they  make  them  gentle  by  de- 
grees, and  finally  break  them  to  submit  to  the  saddle  and  bridle. 
For  this  business  I  presume  there  is  nu  nation  in  the  world  superior 
to  the  Spaniards  of  Texas. 

Pojinlation  and  Chief  Toivns. — St,  Antonio,  the  capital  of  the 
province,  lies  in  29°  SO'  N.  latituda  and  101"  W.  longitude,  and  is 
situated  on  the  !iead  waters  of  the  river  of  that  name  and,  perhaps, 
contains  2,000  souls,  the  most  of  whom  reside  in  miserable  mud- 
wall  houses,  covered  wit!)  thatched  grass  roofs.  The  town  is  laidj 
out  on  a  very  grand  plan.  To  the  cast  of  it,  on  the  other  side  ol 
the  river,  is  the  station  of  the  troops. 

About  two,  three,  and  four  miles  from  St.  Antonio  are  threi 
misbious,  formerly  Nourishing  and  prosperous.    Those  buildin 
for  solit'-ity,  accommodation,  and  even  majesty,  were  surpassed 
few  that  I  saw  in  New  Spain.     The  resident  priest  treated  us  wii 
the  greatest  hospitality,  and  was  respected  and  beloved  by  all  wl 


ifivej 

an  a 

I'e  n 

(J  th 

cept 

nter 

'ses. 

Th 

yhicf 


APPENDIX  Tr  ^^Hr  HI. 


es  and  mulea  which 
n^i  6tc.  they  would 
lis  would  join  them 
:!ie  dragoons  to  pre- 
beast »  carried  oiT  at 
.  They  also  In  the 
ra*  horscH,  and  even 
ike  off  the  horses  in 

n  taking  them  is  as 
eed  into  the  country 
;y  then  build  a  large 
I  smaller  enclosure : 
;t  wings  out  into  the 
ics,  &c.  to  induce  the 
;s.     After  these  pre- 
a  small  drove,  for,  if 
they  either  burst  open 
others  run  over  thctn 
ed  to  leave  the  place, 
would  be  insupporta- 
d  not  receive  others. 
I  few,  say  two  or  three 

gest,  noose  them,  and  _  . — » •■«!  acs,  and 

™  out  the  remainder,!,.  ,  -^^rtculture — The  Amerimn 

tetLn,  gentle  by  de.r'°PPf"»'ons  and  .„,,,i,i„„^  ,htTltV'''°'^""''y-  but 
„„  sadd.e%nd  bridle,  fc  *"S  »i...  .ha,  apiH.  ^Uioutllt^Z""''"'  P™-"'' .l.eir 
„  in  the  world  .uperior  r'*'^»'>men,  of  .  „e„  coun,™  "'"" '»  K'vo  success  lo  the 

„i„..be  capu.  of  ,.i2::::/„«;{*e;:dra:r::t:"^^^ 

W.  longitude,  and  \^%.     J'''^  ^»W  horses,  and  carry  on  a  tv.T  ^' .      '^^  ^^^'^^^  ti'e 
.tnamJ;nd,perha4:^  --^;^         ^o.j::X:^J^^^^  Span,,., 

,idc  in  miserable  t««^I„ve,.6adl  K        ^"''''"''*'  ^^^^^^^t:  are  a  tail  h     ,  ^  """  ^''''''' 

ofs     The  town  is  ^ai<it"    '''''""  ^^^«  a  Peculiar  cluckinir  L       '  ^^"^»°">«  peopJc  ia 

^onthe  other  side  of     2:^-'--  visited "^rf ,;tr  1" ^  "°^^  ^^  ^^^- 

e  made  less  progress.    They  comolain    ,       ^"'^^  «PP^"''s  to 
,,,,       t-  treatment  of  the  SpSu     ^II     "' °' ^'^"' «"-^-n 
ccpt  the  Appaches,  were  fh«  •'      ^  extremely  poor    an,, 

untered  in  .^1  e_   '.  ^^'^  ^'^^  '"ost  indenenrl^nf  r.„,=J^  °'^'  ^"^' 


33 


knew  him.    He  tnade  a  '  *  ^ 

^'•"".whohadforme.lyrrCtr'"'*'"*'''"^^'"'^'  to  the  abori 
"•ent.  under  charge  of  the  rnn"-      f""'''''*"  °f  ^hose  e.tabHsh 

<=»"'«  of  the  nativTs '"  hI      T^'    '  "»''«d  him  «  What?    ! 

thevrnnM        "";"•     "e  replied  <»  Thar  s»  *^  "at  had  be- 

»^o  formed :;; ""' """"  "■'"»-<««  o^LMr"' '°  '""■  "■« 

u  iiaa  not  then  more  than  ^..ffil-  "^®  °ne  where  h«i 

""'»•    It  IS  situated  on  a  sm^iJI  .,  P'  ""' '""tains  i,ca,l, 

Tl-e  population  of  Te,asT»  "'  "'  ""  """■■  'oyac       '^ 

"=P™cipa„,  Spanish,  c"„les  I  "  ""■»«ed  a,  rooo/  n„„ 


11  St.  Antonio  are 

rous.    Those  b"""'"luntered  in  Ik'-c"^"'. '"^'^  "'^  '"ost  independrnf'T'r  ''°°'''  ^"^' 

.assed  b  27          ^"^  ^P"""h  territories  "' "''^"^'^"^  ^'"''ans  we  en- 

i  us  wit     _,.  '  possess  large  droves  of 

..     .       1  ner«»  ai.*  « . 


ises.  "»ic3.     1  nev  noococ- I-. 


;sty,  were  surpasst-  -   .^^^ 

t  priest  treated  us  wit     _  -o~«iuvcsot 

I  50        '^""  "'■''"'"'■'="■*  <oti,o 


6 


li 


34 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  III. 


I'  r 


tl  ,1 


government  of  the  United  States  on  these  subjcc';i  ^tei»,  and 
ytry  few  ^indeed,  of  those  nations  have  been  converted  by  the  mis- 
siofiH,  and  these  are  not  in  that  state  of  vassala^  Ui  which  the  luUians 
further  to  the  south  are  held. 

Government  and  Z^w«.— Perfectly  military,  except  as  to  the 
ecclesiastical  jurisdiction. 

Moralt  and  Manners. — They  being  on  the  frontier,  where  buf* 
falo  and  wild  horses  abound,  and  not  engaged  in  any  war  with  sa- 
vages who  are  powerful,  have  adopted  a  mode  of  living  by  following 
those  animals,  which  has  been  productive  of  a  more  wandering  dis- 
position  round  the  capital  (St.  Antonio)  than  in  any  other  of  the  pro* 
vinces.  Cordero,  by  restricting  (by  edicts)  the  buffalo  hunts  to  cer- 
tain seasons,  and  obliging  every  man  of  family  to  cultivate  so  mbny 
acres  of  land,  has  in  some  degree  checked  the  spirit  of  hunting  or 
wandering  life,  which  had  been  hitherto  so  very  prevalent,  and  has 
endeavored  to  introduce,  by  his  example  and  precepts,  a  gene- 
ral urbanity  and  suavity  of  manners,  which  rendered  St.  Anto- 
nio one  of  the  most  agreeable  places  that  we  met  with  in  the  pro- 
vinces. 

Military  /brre.— There  was  in  Texas  at  the  time  I  came 
through  988  men,  from  the  actual  returns  of  the  troops  which  I 
have  seen,  five  hundred  men  of  whom  were  from  St.  Andcr  and  | 
New  Leon,  under  the  command  of  governor  Herrara.    The  dispo- 
sition of  those  troops  are  as  follows :  388  at  St.  Antonio,  400  at  the  | 

cantonment  of ,  on  the  Trinity,  100  at  the  Trinity,  and 

100  at  Nacogdoches.    The  militia  ^a  rabble)  are  made  somewhitj 
respectable  by  a  few  American  riflemen  who  are  incorporated 
amongst  them  and  are  about  300  men,  including  bow  and  arrow 
men. 

Religion. — Catholic,  but  much  relaxed. 

History. — To  me  unknown,  except  what  can  be  extracted  froi 
various  authors  on  that  subject. 

General  Remarks  on  JVew  S/iain. -^To  become  acquainted  wii 
all  the  civil  and  political  institutes  of  a  country,  it  requires  a  perfei 
knowledge  of  the  language,  a  free  ingress  to  the  archives,  and  a 
sidence  of  some  years :  even  then  we  can  scarcely  distinguish 
tween  the  statute  laws  and  common  law,  derived  from  custom, 
rals,  and  habits.    Under  those  circumstances  it  cannot  be  expeci 
that  I  shall  be  able  to  say  much  on  the  subject,  as  I  possessed  noi 
of  the  above  advantages.    I  will,  however,  offer  a  few  observatioi 
To  a  stranger  it  is  impossible  to  define  the  limits  of  the  militi 
»f)4  ecclesiastical  jurisdictions,  in  every  affair  which  relates  to 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  III. 


Sf 


citistntt  and  in  fact  with  the  soldiery,  the  Torce  o(  superstition  is 
such  that  I  am  doubtful  whether  they  would  generally  ol)ey  one  of 
their  officers  in  a  direct  violation  of  the  injunction  of  their  religi* 
ous  professions.  The  audiences  of  Mexico  nnd  Guadalaxara  were 
formed,  no  doubt,  as  a  check  on  the  immense  power  of  the  viceroy. 
The  number  of  members  comiiosing  each  is  to  me  unknown,  but 
they  are  formed  of  the  viceroy,  as  president,  with  two  votes,  gene- 
rals, and  bishops.  To  their  jurisdictions  the  appeals  from  the  judg- 
ment of  the  intcndunts  and  all  subordinate  officers  may  be  made  in 
civil  cases ;  but  the  military  and  ecclesiastical  decisions  are  dis- 
tinct :  yet  notwithstanding  all  this  semblance  of  justice,  should  an 
^dividual  dare  to  make  the  appeal  nnd  not  succeed  in  establish- 
ing the  jtistice  of  his  claim  to  redress,  he  is  certainly  ruined. 
Where  justice  is  so  little  attended  to,  when  opposed  to  power  and 
wealth,  as  in  the  Spanish  provinces,  the  appeal  is  a  desperate  re- 
medy. This  tribunal  or  legislative  body  enacts  all  tlic  laws  for  the 
general  regulations  of  their  divisions  of  the  kingdom. 

The  captain  generalcy  of  the  internal  provinces  appeared  lo 
me  to  be  much  more  despotic,  for  the  laws  or  regulations  were 
issued  in  the  form  of  an  order  merely,  without  any  kind  of  a  pre- 
amble whatsoever,  except  sometimes  he  would  say,  "  By  order  of 
the  king ;"  and  such  was  the  style  of  governors  of  provinces. 

Morals^  Manners^  istc. — For  hospitality,  generosity,  and  so- 
"^        *o  400  attheB  briety  the  people  of  New  Spain  exceed  any  nation  perhaps  on  the 
....  -...iBgiojjg.  but  in  national  energy,  patriotism,  enterprise  of  character, 
or  independence  of  soul,  they  are  perhaps  the  most  deficient :  yet 
incorporatedB  there  are  men  who  have  displayed  bravery  to  a  surprising  degree, 
who  ^^^  arro^'Band  the  Europeans  who  are  there  cherish  with  delight  the  idea  of 

^^^^^  ■  their  gallant  ancestry. 

Their  women  have  black  eyes  and  hair,  fine  teeth,  and  are  ge- 

vtracted  froinlneially  brunettes.    I  met  but  one  exception  to  this  rule  at  Chihua- 

Ihua  of  a  fair  lady,  and  she,  by  way  of  distinction,  was  called  *<  the 

uainted  witlpirl  with  light  hair"   They  are  all  inclining  a  little  to  enbonpoint ; 

lecoine      l       ^  perfeAut  none  (or  few)  are  elegant  figures*    Their  dress  generally  is 

liry,  It  ^^^ .        j^nd  a  ttlhort  jackets  and  petticoats  and  high  heeled  shoes,  without  any  head 

Irk  the  ar  ._^  ivilress.    Over  the  whole  dress  they  have  a  silk  wrapper,  which  they 

ways  wear,  and,  when  in  the  presence  of  men,  affect  to  bring  it 

[ver  their  faces,  but  from  under  which  you  frequently  see  peeping 

large  sparkling  black  eye.     As  we    approached  the  Atlantic 

id  our  frontiers,  we  saw  several  ladies  who  wore  the  gowns 

onc>  "  *-      ^^  miiit'J  our  countrywomen,  which  they  conceived  to  be  much  more 

'^*,-(.h  relates  to  legant  than   their  ancient   costume.    The   lower   class  of  the 


illf 


I  A  w^y  •»* 
ed  by  the  mis- 
uchtheludian* 

tccpt  as  to  the 

.tier,  where  buf. 
any  vrarwUhsa- 
iving  by  following 

,re  wandering  d»- 
y  other  of  the  pro- 

iffalo  hunts  to  cer- 
,  cultivate  so  many 
,pirit  of  hunune  or 
prevalent,  and  has 
^  precepts,  a  gene- 
rendered  St.  Ante 
«ct  with  in  the  pre 

at  the  time  1  canve 
f  the  troopa  which! 
ft.om  St.  Ander  and 
The  dispo- 


It  can  1 


,  scarcely  dUtingmshl 

rived  from  custom, 

es  it  cannot  be  expec« 

Let,  as  I  possessed  no 

%t.fevvobserH 


U" 


S6  APPENDIX  TO  PART  III. 

men  are  generally  dressed  in  broad  brimmed  hats,  short  coats, 
large  waistcoats,  and  small  clothes  always  open  at  the  knees 
(owing,  as  I  supose,  to  the  greater  freedom  it  gives  to  the 
limbs  on  horseback),  a  kind  of  leather  boot  or  wrapper,  bound 
round  the  leg  (somewhat  in  the  manner  of  our  frontier-men's  leg- 
gings), and  gartered  on.  The  boot  is  of  a  soft,  pliable  leather,  but 
not  colored.  In  the  eastern  provinces  the  dragoons  wear,  over  this 
wrapper  or  boot,  a  sort  of  jack-boot  made  of  sole-leather,  to  which 
are  fastened  the  spurs,  by  a  rivet,  the  gafis  of  which  are  sometimes 
near  an  inch  in  fength  ;  but  the  spurs  of  the  gentlemen  and  officers 
altheu(;'h  clumsy  to  our  ideas,  are  frequently  ornamented  with  raised 
silver  work  on  the  shoulders,  and  the  strap  embroidered  with  silver 
and  gold  thread.  They  are  always  ready  to  mount  their  horses,  on 
which  the  inhabitants  of  the  internal  provinces  spend  nearly  half  the 
day.  This  description  will  apply  generally  to  the  dress  of  all  tlie 
men  of  the  provinces  for  the  lower  class ;  but  in  their  cities,  amongt 
the  more  fashionable,  they  dress  after  the  European  or  United 
States  modes,  with  not  more  variation  than  we  see  in  our  cities  from 
one  six  months  to  another. 

Both  men  and  women  have  remarkably  fine  hair,  and  pride 
themselves  in  the  display  of  it.  Their  amusements  are  music, 
singing,  dancing,  and  gambling.    I'he  latter  is  strictly  prohibited, 

but  the  prohibition  is  not  much  attended  to.    The  dance  of 

is  danced  by  one  man  and  two  women,  who  beat  time  to  the  music, 
which  is  soft  and  toluptuous,  but  sometimes  changing  to  a  lively,  I 
gay  air.  The  dancers  exhibit  the  motions  of  the  soul,  by  gestures 
of  the  body,  snapping  the  fingers,  and  sometimes  meeting  in  a 
stretched  embrace.  The  fandango  is  danced  to  various  figures  and 
numbers. 

The  minuet  is  still  danced  by  the  superior  class  only.  Tliel 
music  made  use  of  is  the  guitar,  violin,  and  singers,  who,  in  the  first! 
described  dance,  accompany  the  music  with  their  hands  and  voices,| 
having  always  some  words  adapted  to  the  music. 

Their  games  are  cards,  billiards,  horse  racing,  and  cock  fight-j 
ing,  the  first  and  last  of  which  are  carried  to  the  most  extravaganij 
lengths,  losing  ;uid  winning  ir'.mense  sums.    The  present  commanJ 
dant  general  is  very  severe  with  his  officers  in  these  respects,  freltaker 
quently  sending  them  to  some  frontier  post,  in  confinement  foldissiil 
montliS*  for  no  other  fault  than  having  lost  large  sums  at  play.    j^l^i'uti| 
every  town  of  consequence  is  a  public  walk,  where  the  ladies  anlthat 
gentlemen  meet  and  sing  songs,  which  are  always  on  the  subject  Jcom-sl 
love  or  the  social  board      The  females  have  fine  voices,  and  sinff 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  III. 


37 


in  French,  Italian^  and  Spanish,  the  >vhole  company  joining  in  the 
chorus. 

In  their  houses  the  ladies  {>!ay  the  guitar,  and  generally  accom- 
pany it  with  their  voices.  They  either  sit  down  on  the  carpet  cross 
legged,  or  loll  on  a  sofa.  To  sit  upright  in  a  chair  appeared  to  put 
them  to  great  incor  venience,  and,  although  the  better  class  would 
sometimes  do  it  on  our  first  introduction,  they  soon  took  the  liberty 
of  following  their  old  habits.  In  their  eating  and  drinking  they  are 
remarkably  temperate.  Early  in  the  morning  you  receive  a  dish  of 
chocolate  and  a  cake,  at  twelve  you  dine  pn  several  dishes  of  meat) 
fowls,  and  fish,  after  which  you  have  a  variety  of  confections,  and, 
indeed,  an  elegant  desert ;  then  drink  a  few  glasses  of  wine,  sing  a 
few  songs,  and  retire  to  take  the  aieata^  or  afternoon's  nap,  which  is 
taken  by  rich  and  poor.  About  two  o'clock  the  windows  and  doors 
are  all  closed,  the  streets  deserted,  and  the  stillness  of  midnight 
reigns  throughout.  About  four  o'clock  they  rise,  wash  and  dress, 
and  prepare  for  the  dissipation  of  the  night.  About  eleven  o'clock 
some  refreshments  are  offered,  but  few  take  any,  except  a  little  wine 
and  water  and  candied  sugar.  " 

The  government  has  multiplied  the  difRculties  of  Europeans 
intermarrying  with  the  Creoles  or  Metifs  to  such  a  degree  that  it  is 
difficult  for  such  a  marriage  to  take  place.  An  ufTiccr,  wishing  to 
marry  a  lady  (not  from  Europe')  is  obliged  to  acquire  certificates  of 
the  purity  of  her  descent  .200  years  back,  and  transmit  it  to  the  court, 
when  the  licence  will  be  returned  ;  but  should  she  be  the  daughter 
of  a  man  of  the  rank  of  captain,  or  upwards,  this  nicety  vanishes, 
as  rank  purifies  the  blood  of  the  descendants. 

The  general  subjects  of  conversation  among  the  men  are  wo- 
men, money,  and  horses,  which  appear  to  be  the  only  objects,  in 
their  estimation,  worthy  of  consideration,  unitirg  the  female  sex 
with  their  money  and  their  beasts,  and,  from  having  treated  them 
too  much  after  the  manner  ot  the  latter,  they  have  eradicated  from 
their  breasts  every  sentiment  of  virtue  or  ambition,  either  to  pursue 
and  cock  fig^4 '^^  acquirements  which  would  make  them  amiable  companions, 
^*  _t  oxtravaganl  instructive  mothers,  or  respectable  members  of  socleiv.     Their 

sent  comma'*! whole  souls,  with  a  few  exceptions,  like  the  Turkish  ladies,  being 
i!       respects,  fieiteken  up  in  music,  dress,  and  the  little  blandishments  of  voluptuous 
nfinement  foldissipation.    Finding  that  the  men  only  regard  them  as  ol)jccts  of 
^  at  nlav-     Algratification  to  the  sensual  passions,  they  have  lost   every  idea  of 

°  *u«  ladies  aiithat  feast  of  reason  and  flow  of  soul,  which  arise  fiom  the  inter- 

,  M;V\eve  '■nc  •""  ■  , 

'  *\^P  cubiectlcourse  ot  two  refined  and  virtuous  mmds. 

always  on  the  suuj      j 

e  fine  voices,  and  mH 


,,  short  coats, 

at  the  knees 

gives   to   the 
wrapper,  bound 
jtier-men's  leg- 
able  leather,  but 
,s  wear,  over  this 
eather,  to  w-luch 
•h  are  sometimes 
imen  and  officers 
rented  with  raised 
idered  with  silver 
,,t  theiv  horses,  on 
end  nearly  half  the 

he  dress  of  all  the 
their  cities,  amongt 

,vopean  or  United 
.einourciuesfrom 

fine  haiv,  and  pride 
sements  are  rnusic, 
,  strictly  pwhibued, 

he  dance  of  "^ 

t  time  to  the  music, 
hanging  to  a  Uvdy, 
the  soul,  by  gestures] 

.etimesmeetinginai 
to  various  figures  anii 


kor 


The 


,„.   class  only, 
ngers,  who,  in  the  first 

heir  hands  and  voices,] 


SIC. 


m 

)St, 


Si 


38 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  III. 


,^  '  i    . 


m  '^' 


The  beggars  of  the  city  of  Mexico  are  estimated  at  60,000 
8ou?s:  what  must  be  the  number  through  the  whole  kingdom? 
and  what  reason  can  it  be  owing  to  that,  in  a  country  superior  to  any 
in  the  world  for  riohes  in  gold  and  silver,  producing  all  the  neces' 
aariups  of  life  and  most  of  its  luxuries,  that  there  should  be  such  a 
vast  proportion  of  the  inhabitants  in  want  of  bread  or  clothing. 
It  can  only  be  accounted  for  by  the  tyranny  of  the  government 
aiid  the  luxuries  of  the  rich.  The  government  striving,  by  all  the 
restrictions  possible  to  be  invented,  without  absolutely  driving  the 
people  to  desperation  to  keep  Spanish  America  dependent  on  Eu- 
rope. 

Trade,  Commerce^  Manufactures,  and  Revenue. — The  trade  and 
commerce  of  New  Spain  is  carried  on  with  Europe  and  the  United 
States  by  the  port  of  Vera  Cruz  solely,  and  the  East  Indies  and 
South  America  generally  by  Acapulco,  and,  even  at  these  ports, 
under  such  restriction,  as  to  productions,  manufactures,  and  time, 
as  to  render  it  of  little  consequence  to  the  general  prosperity  of  the 
country.  Were  all  the  numerous  bays  and  harbors  of  the  gulfs  of 
Mexico  and  California  opened  to  the  trade  of  the  world,  and  a  gene- 
ral licence  given  to  the  cultivation  of  all  the  productions  which  the 
country  is  capable  of,  with  freedom  of  exportation  and  importation, 
with  proper  duties  on  foreign  goods,  the  country  would  immediately 
become  rich  and  powerful,  a  proper  stimulus  would  be  held  out  to 
the  poor  to  labor,  when  certain  of  finding  a  quick  and  ready  sale  for 
the  productions  of  their  plantations  or  manufactories.  The  country 
abounds  in  iron  ore,  yet  all  the  iron  and  steel,  and  articles  of  manu- 
factures, are  obliged  to  be  brought  from  Europe,  the  manufactur- 
ing or  working  of  iron  being  strictly  prohibited  :  this  occasions  the 
necessary  articles  of  husbandry,  arms,  and  tools  to  be  enormously 
high  and  is  a  great  check  to  agriculture,  improvements  in  manu- 
factures, and  military  skill.  The  works  of  the  Mexicans,  in  gold, 
silver,  and  painting,  shew  them  naturally  to  have  a  genius  which, 
with  cultivation  and  improvement,  might  rival  the  greatest  masters 
of  either  ancient  or  modern  times.  Their  dispositions  and  habits 
are  peculiarly  calculated  for  sedentary  employments,  and  I  have  no 
doul)t,  if  proper  establishments  were  made,  they  would  soon  rival, 
if  not  surpass,  the  most  extensive  woollen,  cotton,  or  silk  manufac- 1 
tures  of  Europe,  their  climate  being  proper  to  raise  the  finest  cotton 
in  the  world  and  their  sheep  possessing  all  the  fineness  of  wool  for 
which  they  are  so  celebrated  in  Spain.  These  circumstances,  togc- 
thtr  with  the  immense  qiiar.tiiies  of  the  raw  materials  which  theyj 
have  on  liand,  wool  selling  for  a  mere  trifle,  and  in  fact,  they  scarce- 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  III. 


39 


J  at  60,000 
e  kingdom^ 
iperior  to  any 
all  the  neces- 
aid  be  such  a 
1  or  clothing, 
e  government 
ing,  by  aU  the 
ely  driving  the 
,endent  on  K-u- 

^The  trade  and 
5  and  the  United 
East  Indies  and 
^  at  these  ports, 
itures,  and  time, 
prosperity  of  the 

,raofthegulfeof 
,vorld,andagene. 
actions  which  the 
n  and  importation, 
.vould  immediately 
uld  be  held  out  to 
,  and  ready  sale  for 
.rics.    The  country 
d  articles  of  manu- 

>e,  the  manufactur- 

this  occasions  the 

to  be  enormously 

.vements  in  wanu- 

Mexicans,  in  goldv 

bve  a  genius  v^hich, 

L  greatest  tna^tei^ 

spositions  and  habits 

Vents,  and  I  have  no 

ey  would  soon  rival, 
on,  or  silktnanufac- 
•aise  the  finest  cotton 
fineness  of  wool  foe 
circumstances,  togc- 

Latcrials  which  they 
Lin  fact,  they  scarce 


]y  take  the  half  frotn  the  4eece  of  the  sheep,  for  the  coane  manu- 
facturcs  of  the  country  and  to  make  beds. 

I  cannot  pfesume  to  state  the  revenues  of  the  country  from  of- 
ficial documents,  but  the  following  statements  I  have  had  from  so 
respectable  a  source,  and  they  are  so  confirmed  by  my  own  observa- 
tions, that  I  think  much  reliance  may  be  placed  on  their  correctness. 
The  mint  coins,  per  annum,  at  least  50,000,000  dollars  in  silver  and 
14,000,000  dollars  in  gold,  the  one-fifth  of  which  (the  duty)  is  c'lual 
to  12,800,000.  The  duties  on>foreign  goods  and  the  amount  paid 
by  the  purchasers  of  monopolies,  may  be  estimated  at  4,000,000 
dollars,  which,  vvlih  the  duty  on  gold  and  silver,  makes  the  annual 
revenue  16,800,000.  The  civil  list  of  the  khigdom  is  580,000,  the 
military  7,189,200  :  these  together  amount  to  7,760,200,  which  de- 
ducted from  the  gross  revenue  of  16,700,000,  leaves  a  clear  revenue 
for  the  king  (from  his  Mexican  dominions)  of  9,030,800.  The 
money  paid  for  the  support  of  the  clergy  is  not  included  in  this  es- 
timate, as  they  receive  their  revenue  through  its  own  proper  chan- 
nel. The  best  paid  officers  under  the  government  cost  the  king  no- 
thing in  a  direct  line,  yet  the  oppressive  manner  in  which  they  pay 
themselves  and  impoverish  the  people,  would  render  it  better  po- 
licy to  abolish  their  impositions  and  pay  them  out  of  the  pubL'c  trea- 
sury by  a  direct  salary. 


*    ,1  ?■■.";  1 


I       !' 


i' , 

1  IS' 


ill' 

I  1': 

i  ii; 


o 

00 


oc 

o 

o 


S.2J  2 

3  5 


g  o  o 

O    00  o 

o  00  o 


Canalty. 


o  •   8      ArtiUtry. 
o      o 


S  S  o 
o  o  o 
O  O  o 


Infantry, 


fT 

^p 

^ 

i' 

*1   t) 

£1. 

4 

M 

^^   1 

M 

^ 

"fi  P 

00  tJ  c» 

"-> 

2  "^ 

»i 

o  o 

OO 

o  o 

oo  1 
00  1 

o 

O    Oi 

oo 

o  o 

o 

o  oo 

rg 

a. 

tr 

^  fr 

r, 

-      <n 

TJ 

ciplined  ir 
arrow,  an 

S' 
a 
CI. 

D 

(^  Zi 

n 

s 

f: 

< 

H 

n 

3 

? 

^    4k     M  ^     M    M 

00  o  o  o  o  o 
00  o  o  o  o  o 


Cavairy. 


o 
o 


8 

o 


Artillery 


Infantry. 


o       £ 
o  o  »j 

•  13 


*.  o  o 
o  o  o 

OOP 


Cavalry. 


o 
o 


88 


11  Oi  «^  t^  l-l  Oi 

"^    O   O   O  O  Q   O 

o  o  o  o  o  o  o 

o  o  o  o  o  o  o 


00 
w   ►»   o  00  00  4i    C    . 
O   O  O   O   O   o  o 
O   Q    O   O    f     O   O 
O    O   O   O    OOP 


Artillery 


Infantry. 


Fire  arms 

Bows,  ar- 
rows, and 
lances 


>*3  ■^ 


a.  ET  "  >■*' 


a.  ET  g- 
e  "^  5. 

-       C) 


:<!: 


J  Don 
Jadd  ] 
[Only , 

pnce  i 
I'ern 
%^  1 

*it  facif 

pe  SITlil 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  IH. 


41 


Fire  arms  1 1 

--poW8,ar-  I 

I  rows,  and   g 

'  i     lances^  '  - 


The  European  troops  are  some  of  the  choicest  regiments  from 
Spahi,  cotjsequently  we  may  put  them  on  the  supposition  that  they 
are  weli  disciplined,  and  officered  by  men  of  honor  and  science. 

The  rcguhrr  troops  of  the  kingdom  who  are  in  the  vice  royally, 
acting  from  the  stimulant  of  ambition  and  envy,  are  supposed  to  be 
equal  to  their  brethren  from  Europe.  The  mi'.itia,  %vith  the  regular 
officers,  are  likewise  good  troops,  but  are  not  held  in  so  high  f:8tima- 
tion  as  the  oihor  corps.  Tiiose  three  corps,  forming  a  body  of 
23,288  men,  may  be  called  the  regular  force  of  ♦lie  kingdom,  as  the 
militia  of  139,500  would,  in  my  estimation,  be  of  no  more  conse- 
quence against  the  regular  troops  of  any  civilized  power  than  the 
ancient  aborigines  of  the  country  were  against  the  army  of  Cortes. 
Tie  particular  observations  which  follow  must  be  considered 
as  applying  to  the  troops  of  the  internal  provinces,  unless  it  is  stated 
to  the  contrary. 

The  appearr.ncc  of  the  Spanish  troops  is  certainly  (at  a  dis- 
tance) a  la  militaire  ;  their  lances  are  fixed  to  the  side  of  the  saddle 
under  the  left  thigh  and  slant  about  five  feet  above  the  horse.     On 
the  right  the  caralnne  is  slung  in  a  case  to  the  front  of  the  saddle 
(or  pommel)  crosswise,  the  breech  to  the  right  hand,  and  on  each  side 
of  the  saddle,  behind  the  rider,  is  a  piotol :  below  the  breech  of  the 
carabine  is  slung  the  shield  which  is  made  of  sole  leather  thr'ee  dou- 
bled, sewed  together  with  thongs  with  a  band  on  the  inside  to  slip 
the  left  arm  through  ;  those  of  the  privates  «re  round,  and  are  about 
two  feet  in  diameter.    The  officers  and  non-commissioned  officers 
have  their  shields  oval,  bending  on  both  sides,  in  orde;  to  permit  the 
arrow  to  glance,  and  they  have  in  general  the  arms  of  Spain  with 
Don  Carlos  IV.  gilt  on  the  outside,  witli  various  other  devices,  which 
add  much  to  the  elegance  of  their  appearance  on  horseback,  but  are 
only  calculated  to  be  of  service  against  savages  who  have  no  fire- 
arms.    The  dragoons  of  the  vice  royalty  do  not  make  use  of  the 
|!ance  or  shield,  but  are  ai  nried,  equipped,  and  clothed  after  the  mo- 
:lern  manner,  as  also  the  dragoons  of  the  eastern  pr  'inccs.  When 
ihey  recently  expected  to  be  opposed  to  the  American  troops  they 
ere  deprived  of  their  lance  and  shield,  and  received  the  straight 
utluss  in  their  stead. 

Tlneir  dress  is  a  short  blue  coat,  with  red  cape  and  cuff's,  Mith- 
nt  facings,  leather  or  blue  cotton  velvet  small  clothes  and  waistcoat, 
le  small  clothes  always  open  at  the  knees,  the  wrapping  boot  with 
e  jack  boot,  and  permanent  spur  over  it,  a  broad  brimmed,  high 
owned  wool  hat,  with  a  ribband  round  it  of  various  colors,  gcnc- 


11         ! 


iff?       !'< 


t  T 


42 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  III. 


rally  received  as  a  present  from  some  female)  which  they  wear  as  a 
badge  of  the  favor  of  tlie  fair  sex  and  a  mark  of  their  gallantry. 

Their  horses  are  small  and  slender  limbed,  but  very  active  and 
are  capable  of  enduring^  great  fatigue.  The  equipments  of  the 
horses  are,  to  our  idea,  awkward  ;  but  I  believe  them  superior  to  the 
English,  and  they  have  the  advantage  over  us  as  to  the  skill  of  the 
rider,  as  well  as  in  the  quality  of  the  beast.  Their  bridles  have  a 
strong  curb,  which  gives  so  great  a  mechanical  force  to  the  bridle 
that  I  believe  it  almost  practicable  with  it  to  break  the  jaw  of  the 
hor&c.  The  saddle  is  made  after  the  Persian  mode,  with  a  high  pro- 
jecting pommel  (or,  as  anciently  termed,  bow)  and  is  likewise  raised 
behind  :  this  is  merely  the  tree  :  it  is  then  covered  by  two  or  three 
covers  of  carved  leather  and  embroidered  workmanship,  some  with 
gold  and  silver  in  a  very  superb  manner.  The  stirrups  are  of  wood 
closed  in  front,  carved  generally  into  the  figure  of  a  lion's  head,  or 
that  of  some  other  beast,  are  very  heavy,  and  to  us  present  a  very 
clumsy  appearance.  The  horseman,  seated  on  his  horse,  has  a  small 
bag  tied  behind  him,  his  blankets  either  under  him,  or  laying  with 
his  cloak  between  his  body  and  the  bov/,  which  makes  him  at  hi^ 
ease.  Thus  mounted  it  is  impossible  for  the  most  vicious  horse 
ever  to  dismount  them.  They  will  catch  another  horse  with  a  noose 
and  hair  rope,  when  both  are  running  nearly  full  speed,  with  which 
they  will  soon  choak  down  the  beast  of  which  they  are  in  pursuit: 
in  short,  they  are  probably  the  most  expert  horsemen  in  the  world. 

At  each  post  is  a  store,  called  the  king's,  where  it  was  the  origi- 
nal intention  of  the  government  that  the  soldiers  should  be  supplied 
with  provisions,  clothing,  arms,  Sec.  at  a  cheap  rate;  but,  it  being  a, 
post  generally  given  to  60me  young  officer  to  make  his  fortune,  theyl 
are  subject  to  great  impositions.    When  a  dragoon  joins  the  service! 
he  receives  irom  the  king  live  horses  and  two  mules,  and  this  nutn-lThey 
ber  he  is  always  obliged  to  keep  good  from  his  own  pocket ;  but,ia  rem| 
when  he  is  discharged,  the  horses  and  mules  receive  the  dischargedlshosc 
mark  a:  1  become. his  private  property.    They  engage  for  five  or  teJduty  ai 
year*},  at  the  option  of  the  soldier,  but  in  the  bounty  thc'f-  is  a  verAlcw 
material  difference.     It  is  extremely  easy  to  keep  up  their  jorps,  a§lt  be  t( 
a  private  dragoon  considers  himself  upon  an  equality  with  most 
llie  citizens,  and  infinitely  superior  to  the  lower  class,  and  it  is  m 
unfrequently  that  you  see  men  of  considerable  fortune  marrying  tl 
dai^fjliters  of  sergeants  and  corporals. 

The  puy  of  the  trcops  of  New    Spain  varies  with  the  locaiit 
bui  may  be  averaged,  in  the  internal  provinces,  as  ibilows :  i 


J 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  III. 


Ai 


they  vrcar  a*  a 
ir  gaUantry. 
;  very  active  and 
liptnenta  of  il»e 
nsupeviorwlhe 
otheakiUofthe 
ir  bridles  have  a 
orce  to  the  bridle 

ik  the  jaw  of  the 
.,  with  a  high  pro- 
i  is  UkewUe  raised 

.d  by  two  or  three 
ianship,  some  with 
tirrups  are  of  wood 
af  alion'shead,  ov 

„s  present  a  very 
ishorschasastnaU 
him,  or  laying  wuh 
,  makes  him  at  hw 
most  vicious  horse 
er  horse  with  a  noose 
LU  speed,  with  which 

they  are  in  pursuU ; 

.semen  in  the  woyW. 

Ihereitwastheovigi- 

rs  should  be  suppUe. 
rate;  but,  it  being  a 
^ake  his  fortune,  they 
,oon  joins  the  service 
mules,  and  this  num. 
his  own  pocket;  butJ 

eceive  the  discharge^ 
"engage  for  five  or te^ 

bounty  there  is  a  ver 
,eep  up  their  -orps, 
equality  with  most 
„ev  class,  and  it  is  w 
e  fortune  marrymg  t- 

lanes  with  the  localit 
L,  as  follows : 


RANK. 

Amount  oi  pu) 
per  annum. 

REMARKS. 

Dollars. 

Colonel, 

4,500 

With  this  pay  they  find 
their  own  clothes,  pro- 
visions, arms,  accoutre- 
ments, &c.    after  the 
first  equipments. 

Lieutenant  Colonel, 

4,000 

Major, 

3,000 

Captain, 

2,400 

First  Lieutenant, 

1,500 

Second  Lieutenant, 

1,000 

Ensign,    ,       .  j.^ 

800 

Sergeant, 

3S0 

1 

Corporal, 

300 

Private, 

288 

#"1    „  —  »i  - •  1 

•          _  ^ .. 

.»1            C                 •      1.                 JI 

Corporal  punishment  is  contrary  to  the  Spanish  ordinances. 
They  punish  by  imprisonment,  putting  in  the  stocks,  and  death.  As 
la  remarkable  instance  of  the  discipline  and  regularity  of  conduct  of 
those  provincial  troops,  although  marching  with  them  and  doing 
[duty  as  it  were  for  nearly  four  months,  I  never  saw  a  man  receive  a 
)low  or  put  under  confinement  for  one  hour.  How  impossible  would 
it  be  to  regulate  the  turbulent  dispositions  of  the  Americans  with 
iuch  treatment !  In  making  the  foregoing  remark  I  do  not  include 
ifficers,  for  I  saw  more  rigorous  treatment  exerci.  ed  towards  some 
if  them,  than  ever  was  practised  in  our  army. 

The  discipline  of  their  troops  is  very  different  from  ours :  as  to 
tics  or  miUtary  manoeuvres,  they  are  not  held  in  much  estimation, 
»r,  during  the  whole  of  the  time  I  was  in  the  countrj  >  I  never  saw  a 
irps  of  troops  exercising  as  dragoons,  but  frequently  marching  by 


I. 

i 
i 

r, 

r,,  . 

i! 


f: 


44 


APPENDIX  TO  PAUT  III. 


15  I 


m  f 


'■■■  d 


I  '     ;!i? 


i:      >} 


If  4  #4 


J        i 


platoons,  sections  See.  in  garrison,  where  they  serve  as  infantry,  with 
their  carabines.    In  these  manoeuvres  they  were  very  deficient.    On 
i^  mnrch  a  detachn.  *.nt  of  cavalry  generally  encamp  in  a  circle.  They 
relieve  their  guards  at  night,  and  as  ^oon  as  they  hult  the  ncv  gii»nl 
i»  formed  on  foot  with  their  carabines,  and  then  marched  before  the 
commandant's  tent,  where  the  commanding  oflicer  of  the  guard  in- 
vokes the  holy  virgin  three  times :  the  commanding  officer  repll£^» 
*'  It  is  well."    They  titen  retire  and  mount  their  horses,  and  are  told 
off,  some  to  act  as  "  guard  of  the  horses,"  as  cavalry,  others  as 
guard  of  the  camp,  as  infantry.    The  old  guards  are  then  paraded 
Qnd  relieved,  and  the  new  sentinels  take  post.     Their  sentinels  arc 
singing  half  their  time,  and  it  is  no  uncommon  thing  for  them  to 
quit  their  post  to  come  to  the  fire,  go  for  water,  8cc.  in  fact,  alter  the 
officer  is  in  bed,  frequently  the  whole'guard  comes  in,  yet  I  never 
knew  any  man  punished  for  those  breaches  of  military  duly.     Their 
mode  of  attack  is  by  squadrons,  on  the  different  Hanks  of  their  ene- 
mies, but  without  regularity  or  concert,  shouting,  hallooing,  and  fir- 
ing their  carabines,  after  which,  if  they  think  themselves  equal  to 
the  enemy,  they  charge  with  a  pistol  and  then  a  lunce.     From  my 
observation  on  their  discipline  I  have  no  hesitation  in  declaring  thut 
I  would  not  be  afraid  to  march  over  a  plain,  with  500  infantry  and  a 
]proportionate  allowance  of  horse-artillery  of  the  United  States  army* 
ill  the  presence  of  5000  of  these  dragoons  }  yet  I  do  not  presume  to 
^ay  that  an  army  with  that  inferiority  of  numbers  would  do  to  oppose 
Ijhem,  for  they  would  cut  off  your  supplies,  and  harrass  your  march 
and  camp,  night  and  day,  to  such  a  degree  as  to  oblige  yuu  in  the  end  | 
to  surrender  to  them  without  ever  having  come  to  action.    If,  how* 
ever,  the  event  depended  on  one  single  engagement,  it  would  even- 
tuate with  glory  to  the  American  arms.     The  conclusion  must  not! 
be  drawn  that  I  consider  they  are  deficient  in  physical  firmness  morel 
than  other  nations,  for  we  see  the  savages,  500  of  whom  on  a  plaini 
fly  before  fifty  bayonets,  on  other  occasions  brave  danger  and  deathi 
in  its  most  horrid  shapes  with  an  undaunted  fortitude  never  surJ 
passed  by  the  roost  disciplined  and  hardy  veterans.    It  ai-ises  solclyl  at  tbi 
from  the  want  of  discipline  and  confidence  in  each  other,  as  is  always!  vice 
the  case  with  undisciplined  corps,  unless  stimulated  by  the  godlikJgradJ 
sentiment  of  love  of  country,  of  which  these  poor  fellows  knovlthe  ai 
little.    The  travelling  food  of  the  dragoons  in  New  Mexico  consist^ 
of  a  very  excellent  species  of  wheat  biscuit  and  shaved  meat,  wellof  bai 
dried,  with  a  vast  quantity  of  red  pepper,  of  which  they  make  bouimd  is 
illi  and  then  pour  it  on  their  broken  biscuit,  when  it  becomes  so|(]eceai 
and  excellent  eating.  ,. ...,,,,, 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  III. 


45 


ieftactvt.    On 
,  circle.  They 

llie  ucv  g"»"^ 
,hei\  before  ihc 

f  the  B«»*"^  ""^' 
.  ofTiccv  vep\t«>i' 

.vaWy,  oU^evs  a» 
ve  then  paraded 
heir  aeiUinels  avu 

.  in  fv^ct,  alter  the 
;cs  in,  yet  1  "^J^.^ 

.UnUsofthetrene- 
.  haUooing^a^dfii" 
hemselvcs  equal  to 
a  lance.    From  ray 
.^„  in  declaring  th^t 
_y,  500  infantry  and  a 

United  States  army. 
1  do  i^ot  presume  to 

,  xvould  do  to  oppose 
harras.  your  march 
„,UgeyuuintUcendl 


[e  to  action. 


If,  how 


,„,ent,it>vouldeven. 
conclusion  must  not 


FHither  aouth  they  uae  large  quantities  of  [Mrched  corn«Wieal 
and  sui;ar  (as  practised  by  our  hunters)  each  d  ragoon  having  a  (tmtll 
bag.  In  short,  they  live,  when  on  command,  on  an  allowance  which 
our  troops  would  conceive  little  better  than  slarvimg,  never,  except 
at  night,  attempting  to  eat  any  thing  like  a  meaii  but  bite  a  piece  of 
bincuit,  or  drink  some  parched  meal  and  sugor  with  watei'  during 
the  day. 

From  the  physical,  as  well  as  moral  properties  of  the  inhabit* 
ents  of  New  Spain,  I  do  believe  they  are  capable  of  being  made  the 
best  troops  in  the  world,  possessing  sobriety,  enterprise,  jpeat  phy- 
sical force,  docility,  and  a  conception  equally  quick  and  proet rating. 

The  mode  of  promotion  in  the  internal  provinces  is  singular, 
but  probably  productive  of  good  effects.  Should  a  vacancy  of  first 
lieutenant  oifer  in  a  company,  the  captain  commanding  nominates, 
with  the  senior  second  lieutenant  (who  by  seniority  would  fill  the 
vacancy)  two  other  lieutenants  to  the  general,  giving  his  comments 
on  all  three.  The  general  selects  two  for  a  nomination  to  the  courts 
from  whom  is  selected  the  fortunate  candidate,  whose  commission 
is  made  out  and  forwarded  ;  and,  as  the  letters  of  nomination  arc 
always  kept  a  secret,  it  is  impossible  for  the  young  officers  to  say 
who  is  to  blame  should  they  be  disappointed,  and  the  fortunate  one 
is  in  a  direct  way  to  thank  the  king  only  for  the  ultimate  decision, 
and  thus  with  superior  grades  to  the  colonel. 

The  king  of  Spain's  ordinances  for  the  government  of  his  army 
are  generally  founded  on  justice  and  a  high  sense  of  honor.  I  could 
not  get  a  set  from  any  of  the  officers  to  take  it  to  my  quarters,  con- 
sequently my  observations  on  them  were  extremely  cursory.  They 
provide  that  no  old  soldiev  shall  ever  be  discharged  the  service, 
unless  for  infamous  crimes.  When  a  man  has  served  with  reputa- 
tion for  12  years  and  continues,  his  pay  is  augmented ;  20  years,  he 


my  steal  ^  pljdnh  receives  another  augmentation  ;  27  years,  he  receives  the  brevet 

^    ^'  °    .  «ti  death!  rank  and  pay  of  an  ensign,  and  32,  a  lieutenant,  &c.    Those  circum- 

|:ave  dang  ^^  ■  j^jj,jj,gg  j^j^  j^  great  stimulant,  although  not  one  in  a  thousand  aiTive 

fortitu  solclyl  at  the  third  period,  when  they  are  permitted  to  retire  from  the  ser- 

Irans.  ^^  alvrayl  vice  with  mil  pay  and  emoluments.    All  sons  of  captains,  or  of 

Jach  °       '  rrodliwJ  grades  superior)  are  entitled  to  enter  the  king's  schools  as  cadets,  at 

/"^noor  fellovrs  UnoJthe  age  of  twelve  years. 

'*®        M-  ico  consist!        The  prope*  I"  of  any  oiBcer  or  soldier,  who  is  killed  on  the  field 

kNew      «     ^_-t,  welof  battle  or  dies  of  his  w  unds,  is  not  liable  to  be  taken  for  debt, 
J  shaved  meai,  "»"■ 

•       h     maVie  bowand  is  secured,  as  well  as  the  king's  pension,  to  the  relatives  of  the 
l^hlnM  bLomes  soLceascd. 


j 


46 


APPLNDIa  to  part  III. 


H  r 


ili     I:'-'-      i 


Courts  martial,  for  the  trial  of  a  commissioned  officer,  must  be 
formed  of  creneral  officers ;  but  this  clause  subjects  the  officers  of 
the  proviin  >  to  a  great  species  of  tyramiy,  for  the  commandiiH;,  jjc- 
iieral  has  taken  upon  himself  to  punish  for  all  riTc;nces  not  capital, 
consequently  accorcUnfj  to  his  own  judgment  sk]  ||>rejudlce8,  from 
which  there  is  only  an  appeal  to  the  king,  and  difficult  is  it  indeed 
for  the  complaints  of  a  subaltern  to  reach  his  majesty  through  the 
numerous  crowd  of  sycophants  who  surround  him,  one  half  of  whom 
are  proliably  in  league  with  his  oppressor  :  it  likewise  deprives  an 
officer  of  the  most  sacred  of  all  rights,  the  being  tried  by  his  peers ; 
for,  should  he  be  sent  to  Mexico  or  Europe  fur  trial,  it  in  possible  he 
cannot  take  half  the  testimony  which  is'  necessary  ta  complete  his 
justification. 

There  is  another  principle  defined  by  the  ordinances,  which  has 
often  t)ccn  the  cause  of  disputes  in  the  service  of  the  United 
States: — viz.  The  commandant  of  a  post  (in  the  Spanish  scrvioe), 
if  barely  a  captain,  receives  no  orders  from  a  general,  should  one 
arrive  at  his  post,  unless  that  general  should  be  superior  in  authority 
to  the  person  who  posted  him,  ibr,  says  the  ordinance,  he  is  respon- 
sible to  the  king  alone  for  his  post.  That  principle,  according  to 
my  ideas,  is  very  injurious  to  any  country  which, adopts  it ;  for  ex- 
am':it.'t  ^ve  will  say  that  a  post  of  great  importance,  containing  im- 
2iK:i)S«'  nnlitary  stores,  is  likely  to  fall  into  the  hands  of  the  enemy ; 
Vih  iMiiAS  superior  to  the  commandant  receives  the  information,  and 
rcpairtt  to  the  post  and  orders  him  immediately  to  evacuate  it.  The 
coHinmndant,  feeling  himself  only  responsible  to  the  authority  who 
placed  him  in  that  position,  refuses  to  obey,  and  the  magazines  and 
place  are  lost ! ! !  The  principle  is  also  subversive  of  the  very  root 
of  military  subordination  and  discipline,  where  an  inferior  should 
in  all  caaea  obey  a  superior,  who  only  should  be  responsible  for  the 
eifect  arising  from  the  execution  of  his  orders.  It  will  readily  be 
believed  that,  in  my  thus  advocating  imfiHcit  obedience  to  the  orders 
of  a  superior,  that  I  Jo  not  suppose  the  Idghest  imfirobabilitiea  or 
itnfioaaibiliiiea,  si  ch  as  an  order  to  turn  your  arms  against  the  oonati- 
fitted  authority  of  your  country.,  or  to  be  the  ensign  of  his  tyranny  or 
*hefiander  of  his  vices :  those  are  cases  where  -a  man's  reason  must 
alone  direct  him,  and  are  not,  nor  cannot  be  subject  to  any  human  j 
rule  whatever. 

Religion. -^Its  forms  is  a  subject  with  which  I  am  very  imper- 
fectly acquainted,  but  having  made  some  enquiries  and  observations! 
on  the  religion  of  the  country,  I  will  freely  communicate  themJ 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  IH. 


47 


)«iceT,  wusl  be 
^  the  oncers  ot 
owroan«liov,  »;«■ 
nces  not  capital, 
,,rej«d".ce»'  from 

iesiy  through  Ibe 

|,„eha\fof^tho"^ 
wise  i\eprive»  an 
rieAbyhispeewv 

.y  ta  compile  hiH 

rinanccs,>vh\chha» 
ice  of  the   Umted 
,e  SpanUh  servroe), 
general,  should  one 
fupenorin«*uthorUy 

lnance,heisrespon. 
,inciple.accovdvnsto 

,h  adopts  it ;  for  «^- 
^ance,  containing  im; 

hands  of  the  enemy  . 
theinfovmation,aml 

to  evacuate  it.     ^  "« 
to  the  authority  Nvho 
„dthe  magawnesand 
rsive  of  the  very  root 
.re  an  inferior  shoud 

be  responsible  for  the 
;,lt\vitt  readily  be 
Tedience  to  the  order. 
rHestmrobal>il^t^esov 
rtns  against  the  oo««^r. 

„sisnofhis.vr«-V°, 

'.e  a  man's  reason  must 
subject  to  any  human  I 

Lch  lam  very  impe^ 
Lries  and  observations 

%  communicate  them, 


tcarrtil  at  the  same  time  that  f  lay  myself  open  to  the  severe  criti- 
cisms of  persons  who  have,  in  any  »l(;(;i'«!c,  applied  themselves  to  tlie 
study  of  theology  or  the  ritual  of  the  catholic  i  luirch. 

The  kingdom  of  New  Spain,  is  divided  iiitu  four  arciilnshop- 
ricks,  viz:  Mexico,  Guadalaxara,  Durango,  and  St.  Louis  Polosi ; 
•iider  them  again  are  the  sub-bishopricks^ Deacons,  Curates,  Etc. 
each  of  whom  are  subject  and  accountable  to  their  immediate  chief 
for  the  districts  committed  to  their  charge,  and  the  whole  is  again 
subject  to  the  ordinances  of  the  high  court  of  inquisition  held  at  the 
rapital  of  Mexico ;  from  whence  is  fulnii'  the  edicts  of  their 

censure  against  the  heresies,  and  imj  ics  of  the  mo- 

dem philosophy,  both  as  to  politics  and  I  am  credibly 

informed,  that  the  influence  of  that  trib  ater  in  his  Ca- 

tholic majesty's  Mexican  dominions,  thin  tii  any  >^atholic  countrjr 
in  Europe,  or  perhaps  in  the  world.  A  few  years  since,  they  con- 
demned a  man  to  the  flames,  for  asserting  and  maintaining  some 
doctrine  which  they  deemed  heretical ;  and  a  Jew  who  was  impru- 
dent enough  to  take  the  image  of  Christ  on  the  cross,  and  put  it 
under  the  sill  of  his  dnor,  saying  privately  he  would  "  make  the 
dogs  walk  over  their  God."  'I'hey  likewise  examine  and  condemn 
to  the  flames  all  books  of  a  modem  sentiment,  either  as  to  religion 
or  politics,  and  excommunicate  any  one  in  whose  hands  they  may 
be  found.  I  recollect  Uj  have  seen  a  decree  of  theirs  published  in 
the  Mexican  Gazettes,  condemning  a  number  of  books,  "  as  here- 
"  tical  and  contrary  to  the  sacred  principles  of  the  holy  Catholic 
"  church,  and  the  peace  and  durability  of  the  government  of  his 
"  Chatholic  majesty."  Amongst  which^were  mentioned  "  Helve- 
tius"  on  man,  J.  J.  Rousseau's  works,  Voltaire's,  Mirabeau's  and 
a  number  of  others  of  that  description,  and  even  at  so  great  a  dis- 
tance as  Chihuahua;  an  officer  dared  not  take  "  Pope's  Essay  on 
Man,"  to  his  quarters,  but  used  to  come  to  mine  to  read  it. 

The  salaries  of  the  arch-bishops  are  suncrior  to  any  officers  in 
the  kingdom.  The  bishops  of  Mexico,  being  estimated  at  2 150,000 
per  annum,  when  the  vice  roy's  is  g80,000,  and  £50,000  allowed 
for  his  table,  falling  short  of  the  bishop  g20,000. 

Those  incomes  are  raised  entirely  from  the  people  who  pay 
I  no  tax  to  the  king,  but  give  one  tenth  of  their  yearly  income  to  the 
clergy;  besides  the  fees  of  confessions,  bulls,  burials,  baptisms, 
marriages,  and  a  thousand  impositions,  which  the  corruptions  oi 
Ipriestscraft  has  introduced,  and  has  been  kept  up  by  their  supersti- 
Ition  snd  ignorance.  Notwithstanding  all  this,  the  inferior  clergy, 
pho  i.o  all  the  slavery  of  the  office,  are  liberal  and  wc^I  informed 


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in  subordinate.' gpnid««»  without  th«lMM8lMid<Ki|«f»|NNibtbU^^ 
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'tilwteownury. ...  .,  'i..,a.>ti(^ 

Pp/»<iV4wi»-.lt  ihM  oftc^fbeen  e^iitib^l^CM^acaMion  vlrti  »|Miti- 
cw^m^.lfl'Whiit  mehfitr;*  molher  c<mi»try  i  ■hoHkktieetrher  dirtmif  ill 
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mutmim/miHoi  p«o|M«  aei^cMed  ifstn  WHtth«r  hfi/w^stefoenM 
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nMiin^^hmfiiiiitbieiit iio  th«, mothttrt <i«iMAr|r» ywrid^  homiiJUiiuvt 
eonmasnim^  anidteimileiitf  of .hAjbtts«i  nerineir*,  m4  reUgioAii  :Sf»> 
^Wty  it«e]|Wio|f  i«i«en  f)^m  dM.in\»t«»)  PMite>  fewrti  «nd  ulhe- 
^iUtjiiOf.ithe  infuMir  .^  huniaoi  :iQM)tudMM»l *<  lirgcribadyjiCiC ithit 
aofii^jr:?»i>U*.ntmui|j nolon^tl*-  aMbjfBitit^ntotheP; brandy #« the. i»> 
meMift4iitano»of  1000  leegticpi?  AjM^mll'thef  f<M  tkinr  tnetnnty, 
aadicapebiti^oC  providlngr  for  th[rii!owtl.wel)t««tid.th«vi  tmnjkr 
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thira  i»ii Ifne Jof  c(ttichict  iild)iofeeeriMirfy»  innat veiardlit  ihn gtcat 
afMMiMe)  and<  |tfudeM4  woulddkMiMi..toth»  mother  icountiy,  the 
IMdieft  of  gikring  ««y$  wjbtfaottt;  Aetmggks  tntMk  ereBt)  heyohdher 
.pQ^MrtO'jMnmnti.'.:  :w..  ,;:)  Ium.  ■}>,,-;■, 

:  JThe  tnro^ttreatmpksiOl/EaftlMbitfnd  Sp«iieh/AalMica^:iK 
kithubt  «a£  jqrM. ,  >  Stghnd  gam  m  ftheJibettyioiptirme  ihef^etatrit 
tdmtf^ftmm  jmlgiiwnti  Hith  neepci^titft'ttiBidA^  ediicaiiiaa*  iaA<wiMinai'% 
bf  ivhkb  fiMwthi  weilftGrea>edlni|n«»i>ilewning»i  «riMeitfli|^iid^ 
a  rapidi^mhaaMratih.  theeiunle>of)She  «!cfe^-pflMl:«li.tlw  fllMi.at)- 
tit  mptlatinfringe  this  jip^tsMhiqh.lMiihad.biibeitoeaj^^ 
tint  ehi^^biebi  naciare  and>  iho  UxaliiK.jeiidiMtiftaada^fftKe  tis 
a-raghit:  toutlttt^dy and<|»)«tw  tO!  defcml.^  Hadtftreat^BciMiii  jrieldcd 
to  the  itorm  with.gWX?e.  tiim|<^digni^rfi  Aie3nMin||tf  llKre,ahaircdiaur 
gti|titiia^,tdi|«wp»x^raiwdicca»atttb  iflebtjoaaunther  iure»i|.J6h  the 
edatrarj^  h]r!«  |en9'#abr«rd«aUe«DBfltctr  Jthetiaurdeif  of'  thoiMndi  I 
ofioav.  clti2cn%'«h«!!dc«tniction«»f  the  comitryt,  the pcofenatioa ef 
our  ahm;!^  and  tMa  iiMation  of  evcvyi  rigbti^  divine:  and  hiin(.«iir  she 
implantedtn  the  hpeaaK  of  tlie  AaieHcaiv^ian:antlpath3i,.  appnnchf 
ii|g  neaity  to<  hortorif  o  desire  4^  reveiige<  Idmost  heredittirft  and  I 
deotroyed  the  bonds  of  broiheriiood,  which  might  faasre  subsisted  I 


APPJBNDIX  TO  PART  III. 


49 


t„»iwiWdthott 


\i*.  i 


i.  )•■'■' 


i  «tid,%be»»*  vrnnj^ 


might  hweMbiirtW 


betiiiiithe  twocovntries,  which  will  tak«  agesof  jqit  conduet.from 
her  to  the  United  States  pa  eradicate.  Spdn  punued  a  diferent 
line  bf  conduct  towards  her  Mexican  dominions}  which  were  settled 
bjr  Europeans  sixtjr  jrears  previous  ttf  anf  part  (^  the  United  Statesi 
and  might  be  termed  a  conquered  kingdom*  rather  than  the  settle- 
ment of  a  savagecoumry.  Thiscountiy  she  has  therefore  bound 
up  in  all  the  ligatures  of  restiictionsy  monopolies^  prohibitions,  se- 
clusions, and  superstition ;  and  ha|  so  carefidly  secluded  all  light 
from  bursting  in  on  their  ignorance,  that  they  haVie  vegetated  like 
the  acorn  in  the  forest,  until  the  towering  branches  hav«  broke 
through  the  darkness  of  the  wild  which  surrounded  them,  artd  let 
in  the  light  of  heaven.  The  approtimation  of  the  United  States, 
with  the  gigantic  strides  of  French  aqabition,  have  began  to  rouse 
up  their  dormant  qualities,  and  to  call  ipto  action  the  powers  of 
their  minds,  on  the  subject  of  their  political  situation. 

An  instance  of  their  disposition  for  independence/  has  been  ex- 
hibited in  their  feeble  attempts  at  a  revolution  on  the  Uth  Januar^^ 
1634,  under  the  vice  royalty  of  Don  Diego  Carrello  Galyes.  The 
insurrection  on  the  8th  of  June  1693 ;  and  more  i^ecently  in  1797, 
under  the  count  de  Galves,  when  they  prochdmed  him  king  of 
Mexico  in  the  streets  of  the  capital ;  and  130,000  souls  were  heard 
proclaiming,  "  Long  live  Galves,  king  of  Mexico."  It  was  then 
only  for  Aim  to  have  wilCditf  and  the  kingdom  of  Mexico  was  lost 
to  Charles  the  4th  for  ever.  But  prcforing  his  loyalty  to  his  ambi- 
tion, he  rode  out  attended  by  his  guards  to  the  mob,  with  sword  in 
hand,  crying  out "  Long  live  his  Catholic  majesty  Charles  the  4th,' ' 
and  threatening  to  put  to  instant  death  with  his  own  hand,  any  person 
who  refused  immediately  to  retire  to  their  houses.  This  dispersed 
the  people.  In  another  quarter  of  the  kingdom,  an  immense  number 
had  also  collected  and  proclaimed  him  king.  He  sent  10,00p  men 
against  them,  dispersed  them,  and  had  four  beheaded.  Those  firm 
measures  saved  the  country  at  that  period,  and  for  which  he  receiv- 
ed the  greatest  honors  from  the  court  of  Spun ;  but  was  poisoned 
a  short  time  after,  fulfilling  the  maxim,  "  that  it  is  dangerous  to 
serve  a  jealous  tyrant ;"  for  they  always  conceive  that  the  same 
power  who  still'd  the  ocean's  rage,  can  by  his  will  raise  the  storm 
into  all  the  majesty  of  overwhelming  fury.  Thus  by  taking  his 
life  it  relieved  them  from  the  dread  of  bis  influence  with  the  Mexi- 
cans. 

England  would  naturally  have  been  the  power  they  would  have 
[looked  up  to,  in  order  to  form  an  alliance  to  secure  their  indepett- 
|dence ;  but  the  insatiable  avarice  and  hauteur  exhibited  by  the 

22 


mil 


t'!'  i  I'll  I 


"    "  it 

I' 


iiiii 


m 


t 


50 


Amm^  TO  PAKit  in. 


EogUth  In  their  Utedmcentt  M  Li  Plate«  Whh  the  diig^ti)6;#iii^r 
•rniih  hutttrnedthdrvlewiffonithitnitytf.'  ■'■'j  < 

Theff  theri(/^Wltve  tumtd  tknrtyniwk^/^  the  UrUted  Skaieti 
at  brathren  of  the  iltne  kUty^  in  their  Ticlnitjrf  and  >ho  has  within 
her  pow^r  h.npie  redouitiii  ttf  krtni,  iinmuniiion)  and  even  meh  to 
atsist  in  securbig  their  indep(6ndenide,  ar.d  vrbb  in  that  event  seot^res 
tb  herself  the  almost  exclusive  trade  of  the  ricihest  country  in  the 
vrorld  for  centurieS)  and  to  be  her  carders  as  long  as  (he  two  nations 
exist ;  iilr  Mexico,  lilte  China,  will  never  become  a  nation  of  mari- 
ners, tKStViiceive  the  ships  of  all  the  world  into  her  ports,  arnd  give 
her  bullion  in  exchange  for  the  productions  of  their  different 
cooBtiies,— when,  wliat  would  not  be  the  advantages  the  United 
State*  would  reap^from  the  event!  Our  numerous  vessels  would 
fill  eVerf  port,  and  from  Aur  vicinity  enable  us  to  carry  ofif  at  least 
nine-ienths  oi  her  cotnmefce :  e^en  on  the  coast  of  the  Pacific  no 
European  nation  could  vie  with  us :— also,  there  would-be  a  brisk 
failtod  tride  carried  on  with  the  S.  P.  via  Red  river,  and  having 
Vfiree  entrance  into  all  their  ports,  we  would  become  their  factors, 
agents, '  guardiajis,  and,  in  short,  tutelar  genius,'  as  she  ftars,  but 
hates  Ffahce  and  all  French  n  en  and  measures.  It  therefore  re- 
mains fbr  the  government  of  the  United  States  to  decide,  whether, 
if  Bonaparte  should  seize  6n  the  crown  of  Spain,  they  would  hold 
<>tit  a  helping  hand,  to  emancipate  another  portion  of  the  western 
hemisphere  from  the  bonds  of  European  tyranny  and  oppression,  or 
%  a  differtint  policy,  suiter  6,000,000  of  people  to  become-,  in  the 
hands  of  French  intrigue,  enterprise  and  tactics,  a  scourge  on  our 
south-western  boundaries,  which  would  oblige  us  to  keep  a  large 
and  respectable  military  force,  and  continual!  us  liable  to  a  war 
•on  the  weakest  and  most  vulnerable  part  of  Ov    ..ontiers. 

Twenty  thousand  auxiliaries  from  the  United  Stites,  under 
good  officers,  joinQd  to  the  indefie-rdntt  of  the  country,  are  at  any 
^me'sufficient  to  create  and  effect  the  revolution.    These  troops 
can  be  rfised  and  officered  in  the  United  States,  but  paid  and  sup* 
plied  at  the  expense  of  Me>'ico.    It  would  be  requisite  that,  not 
only  the  general  commanding,  but  that  every  officer,  down  to  thej 
youngest  endgn,  should  be  impressed  with  the  riecesiBity  of  support-l 
ing  a  strict  discipUne,  to  prevent  marauding,  which  should,  in  some! 
instances,  be  punished  with  deaths  in  order  to  evince  to  the  citizens] 
that  you  come  as  their  friends  and  protectors,  not  as  their  plunderer 
and  tyrants  t-Molso,  ^  most  sacred  regard  should  be  paid  not  td 
injure  the  institutions  of  their  religion  ;  thereby  shewing  them  vJ 
hml  a  proper  respect  to  all  things  in  any  way  connected  with  th 


^afrit^c 


1  J 


jd  ev«tt  «B«*  *® 

;  country  in  t^« 
fhe  two  naUttns 
» nation  of  «n«ri. 

f  portB,  «rt»d  8^^« 
f  their  different 
agee  the  United 
us  vessels  would 
carry  off  at  least 

t  of  the  Pacific  no 
5  would  be  a  brisk 

river,  and  having 
come  their  factors, 
,;  as  she  f^ars,  but 
5     It  therefore  re- 
io  decide,  whether, 
In,  they  would  hold 
ftion  of  the  western 
iy  and  oppression,  ov 
i  to  become,  in  the 
;8,  a  scourge  on  our 
ns  to  keep  a  large 
„»  liable  to  a  war 

ontiers. 
[nited  Stites,  under 
B  country,  are  at  any 
luUon.    These  troops 
tea,  but  paid  and  sup- 
exquisite  that,  not 
,^er,  down  to  thd 
riecesBitJ  of  support, 
^hich  should,  in  some 
evince  to  the  citixenj 
not  as  their  plundere«( 
should  be  ptodnotto 
feby  shewing  themw 
ray  connected  with  tb 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  IK. 


SI 


wonU^I^Qf  the  Oeity^al  the  sa«M>  time  vd^^p^nnltted  every  fkum  to 
adore'  hi»^  agreeably  to  the  dictates  of  his  own  judgment. 

The  details  requisite  for  the  equipment,  organization,  fcc.  of 
the  corps,  so  as  to  be  adapted  to  th^  locality  of  ^e  country  and  the 
nature  of  the  service,  couldbe  easily  formed,  )>|it  would  be  imper- 
tinent here.  '  , 

Should  an  army  of  Amerleana.ever  march  into  'the  country, 
and  be  g  jlded  and  governed  by  these  maxims,  they  will  only  have 
(o  march  from  province  to  province  in  triumph,  and  be  h41ed  by  the 
united  voices  of  grateful  milliohi'lii  their  deliverers  and  sMdours, 
whilst  our  national  cliaracter  would  be  resounded  to  the  moat  d«tant 
nations  of  the  I  arth. 

Z.  M.  PiKK, 

Capt.  1st  U.*S.  regt.  infantry. 


Wanhinffton,  l'2th  J/iril,  1808. 


4 


,  "frt? 


:    fe*}  \«jbi«« 


.( 


'y^ 


m 


fl 

■•II 
IS 


PI 

m 


C  No.  9.1 


I'fAt-  ■ 


EXPLANATORY  fABLC 


or 


NAMES  OF  PLACES,  PERSONS,  AND  THINGS 
MADB  U8S  or  IN  THIS  VOLUME. 


.y<-/  •    ■  .     - 

- 

ENGLISH. 

FRENCH. 

INDIAN, 

NATUI^  Meadow.^ 

Prairie, 

Bnffiile  river. 

Riviere  au^uf. 

8ih  river.         ^^ 

Riviere  au  Sel. 

Oahahah. 

River  of  Mimn. 

Riviere  de  Moyeil. 

lows  river. 

Riviere  de  Ayoua 

Stony,  or  Rock  river. 

Riviere  des  Rochera. 

j 

Turkey  river. 

Riviere  as  Diadon. 

t 

Dog's  tnea4ow. 

Prairie  des  Chiens. 

Ouisceusing. 

Ravtn  river. 

Riviere  die  Corheau. 

Yellow  river. 

Riviere  Janne. 

R«il  river. 

Riviere  aux  Racines. 

River  of  EmbarruancBti 

Riviere  d'Emharras. 

'  Ckft  Water  river. 

Ririere  I'Eau  Chir. 

'     River  of  die  Prairie  of  Ct)«. 

Riviere    de   b    Prairie    de 
Crosse. 

Ch^way  river. 

Riviere  Sauteauz. 

OnchipcwaSippi 

The  Moontaia  which  loaks  in 

L*   Montaigne  qui  trempe 

the  Water. 

dans  I'Eau. 

River  of          do. 

Riviere  de            dio. 

Sandy  P»int. 

Point  de  8abk> 

1   ■        ■■''■ 

The  Bant. 

Lt  Orange. 

0" 

Caaaoo  River. 

BiriereaaCanon. 

*.i,''' 

River  St.  Petera. 

»' 

Falls  of  St  Anthony. 

Shute  de  St.  Antoine.         .  f 

.'. 

Rum  river. 

FrrMe  VEm  de  Vie. 

"  >    >*  * 

Leaf  river. 

Riviere  auz  Feuilles. 

1 

Sauk  river. 

Riviere  aux  Saukes. 

Big  Falls. 

Grand  rapid. 

I  .ower  Red  Cedar  lake. 

Le  Bas  Lac  da  Cedre  Rouge. 

Rm^  bland. 

Isle  de  Corbean. 

Wt^'r'^ 

Riviev*  an  Pin.                 % 
Lac  Sang  Sue. 

APPENDIX  TO  PART  III. 


53 


,.r''''W. 


rHlNC>» 


INDIAN. 


OahalM^* 


OuKouunS' 


de 


OodiipewaSipr' 


ENGLISH. 

Pike  river. 

Bottofn  of  the  hke. 

SMftn  tirer. 

iMw'n  PtidHliHM#. 

Upper  Red  Cedar  lake. 

Redhkc 

Orecnbi^. 

St.  Igmtiiw. 

Oak  Point. 


FRENCH. 


INDIAN. 


Lk  de  S«bk. 

Riviere  dn  Brodiet. 

food  da  Lac  ^ 

RiiHere  a  Cigoe. 

Petite  (thute.  ^Hukegantw. 

Xi*  HmI  Lac  da  Cedrc  RMgc. 

LAcRoagc. 

Laiayo  Verde. 

St.  IgMce. 

Viuatan  Chene. 

'  Meno  CocUen. 


The  Turn. 
Idaqd  of  the  Tom. 
Boriit  Idand. 
PotaMraciMniea  iahuid. 
Uttk  Htrdi^t. 
Porto£  the  Dead. 
Vermillion  idaod.  , 


Red,riTer. 
Stinkuig  rapid, 
^^oif  rtver. 
ffilkiiik^i^  the  dead. 

■  ■     t         ;     '    _  .      , 

Muddy  lake. 


siu-UuHKi; 


La  Detour. 
Isle  dtt  Detour. 
Me  Brule. 
MedeaP^tf. 
F4tit  Detroit. 
Port  des  Morti*i 
t  .,  .IpIe,ya^iUon» 
Riviere  Rouge.  . 
Puant  Rapid.  . 
Riviere  des  ixnibil 

LacVasenx.      "fpail  Jui) -km  j   .,  ; -' •' 

[ 'W  V  }ji;rat)''    '       :'.u>  (,i  ,/iymH'\u  .■     '       i  •-. 

•  ,  :> :j7  ,:.  ;  .  .   -il^'Wi  SOwl  t";^!  '     :  .  ..■  (U'Vt'!  ?/r     .,i'  .  [;: 

.■':vri-^l»:3'«m-'«i*i*{  .iWi  'f-t'iWi  {»(>!!  'ilfK-i'/frr  i  .'  :-  oJ  ^r-Tiv/  i  t:         .1 

•  •-'>  jici"".-!.  itj;ilt  n  .'  bm-jvim    CKAuahuOf  2QthJ!^ilfil907 »i  *^f 

t.:rN«¥«lv  di<l!l«trd6wB  to  addrest  ybu:with  a  heart  ad  oppmswd 
with  anxietjr  and  mortification ;  but  JihowMg  the  itacertaiixty  nrhicli 
muM  eiftfiiafe  lol  the  &te,<tf  mjrself'  and^ai^v  I  coacdveit  proper 
toidUMapt  A'  iiflkUBuAication^  although  I  thtpk  it  'extremely  tii^cer- 
tuayioWingta  the  difficulty  of  the  route^if  ittahoiild'ever  cometo 
|hand^  or  at  least}  previous  to  my  arrival  at  the  territories  <^  the 
jUBtted'Statesy  ojving  tdvarious  circwns^oeaiVKkicb  orisnot  to  be 

ommimicated  in  a  letteh.  I  wasdataiQed<'ih  ti^niauntuna^.^of 
icD.UBtiL  the  month  of  JuiOery)  and  in.  I^braary  found  mfipl 

hh  eight  of  jny  party  onfyy  on  the  ^ead  brarichoi  jof  the  Rio  ml 


m 


54 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  III. 


Nurtet  which  I  then  coneciv^A  to  be  the  tourcei  of  th«  Re^iAvefi 
our  information  making  the  latter  extend  the  whole  di»tahe«  i^M* 
tween  the  former  and  the  ^rkansawf  altliough  its  source*  are  MRie 
hundred  miles  helo«r  either  of  the  otn^era,' 

Here  I  was  encountered  by  twQ  ofl^ccrs  and  lOOmen*  w^o bore 
orders  from  the  governor  of  N(^w  Mexico,  to  caus^  mf^  «i4  nay  party 
to  march  to  the  capitalL,of  wid  province ;  but  his  request  was  in 
the  most  polite  stylei  and  in  factt  tb^  commanding  officer  assured 
me  there  was  not  the  leaat  con»traintt  but  that  his  excellency  desired 
a  conference,  and  that  I  then  should  be  conducted  by,  the  most  di- 
rect route,  to  the  navigable  part  of  vthe  Red  river,  from  whence  I 
could  immediately  descend  to  Nachi|oches.  Although  dubious  of 
the  faith  of  the  invitation,  and  in  a  situation  from  whence  I  cpiild 
have  defended  myself  as  long  as  my  provision  lasted,  or  until  I 
might  probably  have  escaped  in  the  night,  yet  knowing  the  paci^c 
intentions  of  our  government,  and  the  particular  instructions  of  my 
general,  as  to  my  conduct  in  case  of  a  rencounter  with  a  body  of 
Spanish  troops,  I  conceived  it  most  proper  to  comply  with  the  de- 
mand and  repair  to  Santa  Fe ;  and^  as  th'e  balance  of  my  party  Who 
remained  in  the  mountainsj  w^re,  many  of  them,  invalids,  an|^.hot 
in  a  situation  to  be  able  to  return,  I  ^conceived  it  most  proper  to 
leave  orders  for  them  to  follow,  accompanied  by  an  eacort  of  Span* 
ish  troops  left  for  that  purpose.  ,  ■■'^■i  ^f*!.-?/ 

On  my  arrival  at  Santa  Fe,  his  excellency  governor  AUencastcr 
informed  me  it  was  necessary  that  I  should  immediately  march  to 
Chihuahua,  province  of  Biscay,  in  order  to  present  myself  to  hn 
excellency  the  commandant-general  N.  Salcedo,  for  further  orders. 
This  being  so  different  from  what  I  had  been  taught  to  expect,  that 
1  demanded  of  governor  AUencaater,  in  a  written  communication, 
to  know  if  I  was  to  consider  myself  and  party  as  prisoners  of  war? 
He  replied  in  (he  negative.  We  marched  on  the  following  day, 
and  arrived  at  thia  place  on  the  2d  instant,  fronv  ^enc'e,  I  am  in- 
formed by  the  general,  I  shall  march,  on  the  aniv^ief  tl^  nihiain- 
der  of  my  party,  for  NadiitQches.  .u!uietx(  hiU-^i^^xnn  il. 

I  most  bene  acknowledge  myself  ^and  paMy  <im«lNinftn&e  «bli- 1 
gations  to  the  fiiendship  and  politeness;  of  all  i^lppiikh  loAcers, 
and  in  a  parti<iillarjnanAer  to  the  cOmiiiandtot<>|pheral  dftlMsej 

provinces..      :r..^^   O-;    .,    ..     ';  ,;■.:.-■.■.-,•     >     ^    .      ;0  ,!;. 

.  J    Should  the;  p61itka«f  oar  country  mak^it  necessary  to  aog- 
xlaLent.tbe.army  pioevbuvitO' my  arrival,  I  hopti  the  general  uHltap' 
jtl^c  of  my<aquring  t6  aic6n^derabteptv>motir><^n  the  new<  corps.! 
&lKral4  the  line.of  demarcation  be  amicably  adjusted  between  thcl 


APPENDIX  TO  PAUt  III. 


Sf 


rcc»  we  ««»«»e 

officer  atwred 
ceUencyde«f«d 

bytbe  in«>»^ '^»- 

from  wViento  I 
ough  dobiow  Qf 
I  whepcc  1  cpuW 
lasted,  or  until  I 
o^m  ibe  paciftc 
insuuciwnaoi^ny 
ter  withabodyot 
wply  vrith  the  de- 
eofwypafV^*''* 

it  mostVWP*^'^** 
aneWOrtofSpan. 

overnor  AUencaslcv 
.tnecUately  march  to 
ewnttnyseUtohw 
,  for  further  orders, 
ught  to  expect,  that 
t\en  commiwication, 
,pviBonera«f  var. 

the  following  day, 
iw^ewie,lamin. 

^t-^tieral  of  tl^^^ 
itnece»«yti|««e 


Unltei^Stattt  and  Spain,  I  hope  to  obtain  the  appointment  of  one 
of  At  ebmmissioncra,  at  I  make  bold  to  assert  that,  with  respect 
to  tin  arrangements  -necessary,  and  a  knowledge  of  the  country 
through  which  the  line  must  pass,  I  am  better  instructed  than  any 
other  officer  of  my  age  in  our  senrlee ;  and,  If  joined  to  a  colleague 
of  profound  astronomical  knowledge,  we  oould  surmount  every  dif- 
ficulty. I  likewise  beg  leave  to^uggisst  to  your  excellency  that  I 
conceive  the  information  1  hokl  of  considerable  consequence  in  the 
determination  of  the  line  of  limits,  and  that  (if  not  dlready  deter- 
mined) I  can  throw  considerable  light  on  the  subject. 

I  hope  your  excellency  will  be  j^eased  to  forward  orders  for  me 
to  Nachitoches,  informing  me  if  am  to  descend  to  Orlean*  or  proceed 
to  the  federal  cityj  and«  if  the  latter,  permitting  me  to  pass  by  Loui- 
siana, in  order  to  visit  and  arrange  the  affairs  of  my  family,  to  whom 
I  beg  the  favor  of  my  general  to  commuifeate  the  certainty  of  the 
existence  of  myself  and  Or.  Robinson,  who  begs  to  be  sincerely 
remembered  to  you. 

The  general  will  pardon  the  requests  I  have  made  of  him, 
knowing  the  confidence  of  my  heart,  in  the  paternal  and  soldierly 
esteem  Mrhich  he  has  manifested  for  him,  whn  h^s  the  honor  to  be, 
with  every  sentiment  of  esteem, 
respect,  and  high  consideration, 
dear  general, 

your  obedient  humble  servant, 
«  (Signed)  Z.  M.  I^ike. 

Jiu  excetteney  gen.  Wilkinson. 

N.  B.  Please  to  present  my  respectful  compliments  to  your 
lady,  and  the  doctor's ;  and  mine  to  James,  who,  I  hop6,  has  long 
ere  thia  arrived  in  aifety. 

(Signed)  P. 


[  No.  4.  } 

Xfev)  OrleatUf  May  SOrA,  1807. 


DiAU  SIR, 

After  having  counted  you  among  the  dead,  I  was  most  agree- 


tho  frenerat^i^*?*!  ably  surprised  to  find,  by  a  letter  from  general  Salcedo,  receiv«l  i| 

'"^^    few  dayn  unce,  that  you  were  in  his  possession,  and  that  he  'f^l 

posed  sending  you,  with  your  .party,  to  our  frontier  post.    I  lament 


.  ^j^^tienewcorps-lfewdayK  unce,  that  you  were  in  his  possession,  and  that  he 


i 

1 


'.  M  I 
ili'J 
lljl 
illl 


'y 


56 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  UI. 


that  you  thould  Iom  your  paparif  bat  shill  reljr  much  jon  jmmt  mc- 
moryt  and  although  it  irat  unlbrtUMto  that  jrou  should  havii  kailad 
Red  liTer,  and  mined  the  object  of  four  enterpriae,  jret  I  pramlse 
mjrtelf  that  the  r^kkt  over  which  jtpu  have  paased  will  afford  lome 
interesting  aceneita*  ^dl  to  the  ttateaman  aa  the  {rfiUosopher.  You 
will  hear  of  the  icenea  in  which  I  have  been  engaged>lind  may  be 
inlbrmed  that  the  traitora  whoae  inftunoui  deaigni  against  the  con- 
atitutian  and  government  of  our  country  I  have  detected,  exposed, 
and  deatroyed,  are  vainly  attempting  to  explain  their  own  conduct 
by  incntpating  me ;  and,  among  other  devices,  they  have  asserted 
that  your's  and  lieutenant  WilMpiaon'a  enterprise  waa  a  premeditated 
cooperation  with  Burr.  Being  on  the  wing  for  Richmond,  in  Vir> 
ginia,  to  conftont  tb0  arch  traitor  and  his  host  of  advocates,  I  have 
not  leisure  to  commune  with  you  as  amply  aa  I  could  desire ;  let  it 
then  suffice  to  you  for  ii|lle  uy,  that  of  the  information  you  have  ac> 
quired)  and  the  observations  you  have  made,  you  must  be  cautious, 
extremely  cautious  how  you  breathe  a  word,  because  the  publicity 
may  excite  a  spirit  of  adventure  adverse  to  the  interests  of  our  go< 
vemment,  or  injurious  to  the  maturation  of  those  plans,  which  mhj 
be  hereafter  found  necessary  and  justifiable  by  the  government. 

I  leave  colonel  Gushing  in  command  of  the  district,  with  ple- 
nary powers,  and  have  informed  him  that  you  have  leave  to  repair 
to  St.  Louis,  by  the  most  direct  route,  the  moment  you  have  com- 
municated to  me  in  dufiHcate  the  result  of  your  travels,  voluntary 
and  involuntary,  in  relation  to  clime,  country,  population,  arts,  agri- 
culture, routes,  distances,  and  military  defence.  The  president  will 
be  impatient  to  have  whatever  you  have  aequired,  and  to  the  detailed 
account  a  sketeh  must  be  added,  and  tlie  original  and  duplicate  acl- 
dressed  to  me  at  the  city  of  Washington,  with  the  least  possible 
delay.  You  may  make  up  your  report  at  Natchitoches,  and  proceed 
from  thence  to  the  Wascheta,  and  from  thence  to  the  Arkansaw,  or 
you  may  descend  to  Fort  Adams,  and  proceed  thence  to  St.  Louis, 
by  the  most  convenient  route.  C(rioneI  Gushing,  whom  I  leave  in 
command  of  the  district,  has  my  orders  in  your  favor,  and  will  give 
you  every  indulgence ;  but  as  an  expedition  is  now  in  motion  up  the 
Arkansaw,  to  explore  it  to  its  source  and  further  north-west,  it  is 
highly  importent  you  should,  either  in  person,  or  by  two  or  three 
confidential  men,  send  forward  to  the  Arkansaw  every  information 
which  you  may  deem  essential  to  the  success  of  the  enterprise.  A 
^.  Freemen,  qnder  the  chief  direction  of  Mr.  Dunbar  of  Natchez,!  ^^1' 
fpf^'the  control  of  this  operation.  The  escort,  which  consists  ofl^'^ 
si  select  non-c(»nmissioned  ofiicers  and  privates,  is  commanded  bJ'^"^*"'! 


unt 
SOtI 
of 
Bbill 

Apr 
cede 

Ire,, 


APPENDIX  TO  I  .iRT  III. 


hf 


»UI  •*M  •«"*• 
4Uo«P**f  •  ^*** 

i^nftt  the  cim- 
lected,  eapowd, 
,elr  own  conduct 
,*yh.voattert«d 
„,pr«mediuted 
,lch«ond,inyir. 

I^TOC«IC»»l**'* 

,ttWde.lreiletU 
nttion  you  have  .c 
1  mart  be  cautious, 
cauaetbepobUcUy 

interetta  of  our  go- 
„,  plana,  which  m^y 

hegovemw«n*- 
ie  district,  with  Vk. 

Ihnve  leave  to  repair 
wnt  you  have  com- 
ir  travela,  voluntary 
pulation,  arts,  agn- 

Thepreaide«*^'" 
,d,  and  to  the  detailed 

^„al  and  duplicate  a - 
^th  the  least  po.«bU 

atoche.,«>dP«<^«='l 
to  the  Arkansaw,or 

,  thence  to  St.  Loui^ 
L„g,v.homlle*vein 

;,';vor,  and  will  give 

now  in  motion  up  the 

,ther  «orth.weat,  it « 
,„,orbytwoorthree 

reveV,intonna^<«;, 
lof  the  enterprise.  A 
LDunbarofNatchej 

L,  which  constats  0 
La,  i»  commanded  b, 


Umitanant  WiUuMoni  seconded  bf  Heutenant  T.  A.  Smith*  ThU 
detaehment,  with  two  boata  iulti^ljr  equipped,  win  ftaeh  Nitebtft  In 
eight  or  ten  daja  from  the  preMnt,  and  wlU  pree#ed  with  all  poaai- 
Ue  dispatch.  Yoa  will  address  jour  eommtmleationB  to  Hetitenanft 
WilUnion,  who,  after  manjr  hardsl}ips  and  diAeuIties,  i*eadied  this 
ptece  about  the  first  of  March.  He  has  finished  a  prettjr  good  tra- 
verse of  the  river,  and  his  joonwl  is  interesting.  I  think  the  pit- 
sent  parijr  will  winter  near  the  Arkamaw  Osages,  about  eoo  mllM 
bjr  the  river  from  the  Misaiasippl.  The  president  mentlMed  yott 
and  your  explorationatothe  source  of  the  Orra»  river,  in  Misaddress 
to  congressf  in  liandsome  terma,  and  I  am  convinced  he  has  •  proper 
sense  of  your  merits,  and  will  do  you  ample  justice.  I  offer  yoti 
leave  to  go  immediately  to  your  fairly,  because  I  apprehend  It  will 
be  moat  deairable ;  yet,  if  yoa  possess  in  your  inlbrmation  aught 
which  you  may  desire  to  communicate  Unperson,  you  are  at  liberty 
to  proceed,  by  the  shortest  route,  to  the  seat  of  government,  near 
which  you  will  find  me,  if  aHve,  three  or  four  montha  hence. 

I  pray  you  to  attend  particularly  to  the  injunctions  of  this  hastjT 
letter,  and  to  believe  me,  whilst  I  am  your  general, 

Your  friend, 
(Signed)  Jamxs  Wilkinsow. 

Cafitain  PikCy  U.  S.  army. 


[  No.  5.  ] 

Michitochety  Sth  July^  1807. 
Dear  General, 

Once  more  I  address  you  from  the  land  of  freedom  and 
under  the  banners  of  our  country.  Your  esteemed  favor  of  the 
30th  May  now  lies  before  me,  in  whic'j  I  recognise  the  sentiments 
of  my  general  and  friend,  and  will  endeavor,  as  far  as  my  limited 
abilities  permit,  to  do  justice  to  the  spirit  of  your  instructions. 

I  must  premise  to  your  excellency  that  my  letter  of  the  30th 
April,  dated  at  Chihuahua,  went  through  a  perusal  by  general  Sal- 
ccdo,  previous  to  his  forwarding  it. 

Thac4etter  stated  the  mode  of  my  being  brought  into  Santa 
Ye,  and  I  will  now  state  to  your  excellency  the  proceeding  on  the 
subject  of  my  papers.  I  will  omit  the  hauteur  of  the  reception 
given  m^by  governor  Allencaster,  for  a  more  parti^cular  commnni'^ 
icnUun,  which  changed  afterwards .  to  extrenie  politeness.    Beidg 

23 


ml 


i! 

il 

I, 

m 

lii'' 


ft 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  III. 


un4er  no  r«strietioi»pr«vious  to  trriving  at  SuiU  F»t  I  had  leerttMl 
■II  my  |Mip«ra  which  I  conceived  nocetiaiy  to  prcienret  Imting  my 
book  of  charu,  mjr  ord«n»  and  auchoth'era  aato  induce  the  go* 
Teriior  to  know  me  to  mjr  proper  characteri  and  to  prevent  hia  aua* 
piciona  betog  excited  to  a  atricter  enquiry. 

On  examininft  my  commiaalon,  orderai  he  he  told  me  to  re* 
move  my  trunk  to  mjr  own  quarterat  and  that  on  the  morrow  he 
would  converae  with  me  oo  the  aubject.  I  had  cauaed  the  men  to 
accrete  my  papera  about  their  bodiea*  conceiving  it  safer  than  in  the 
baggage ;  but  in  the  evening,  fimltog  the  ladiea  of  Santa  Fe  were 
treating  them  to  wine,  Ice.  I  waa  apprehentive  their  intemperance 
might  diacover  the  secret,  and  took  them  from  all  -but  one  (who 
had  mjr  journal  to  full)  who  could  not  be  found,  and  put  them  in  my 
trunk,  conceiving  that  the  inspection  waa  over  {  but  next  morning 
an  officer,  with  two  ment  waited  on  me  and  informed  me  be  had 
come  for  me  to  visit  the  governor,  and  brought  these  two  men  to 
take  up  my  trunk.  I  immediately  perceived  I  was  outgeneraled. 
On  my  arrival  at  the  govemor'a  house,  his  excellency  demanded  if 
I  had  the  key.  My  reply  wu  to  the  affirmative ;  when  ho  observed 
"  it  is  well ;"  my  trunk  would  be  a  sacred  deposit  to  the  charge 
of  the  officer,  who  would  escort  me  to  Chihuahua,  for  which  place, 
after  dinner,  I  marched,  under  the  escort  of  lieutenant  Don  Faeundt 
Matgaretf  and  65  men,  whose  character  I  beg  leave  to  introduce  to 
the  attention  of  your  excellency  aa  an  European  possessing  all  the 
high  sense  of  honor  which  formerly  so  evidently  distinguished  his 
tiation,  aa  the  commandant  of  the  600  troops  who  made  the  expedi- 
tion to  the  Pavmeetf  as  an  officer  of  distinguished  merit,  who  in  his 
mode  of  livtog  fully  juatified  the  pomp  and  style  of  his  actions,  out- 
ahtoea  many  of  their  governors  of  provinces,  and  whom  in  my  fu- 
ture reporta  I  shall  have  frequent  occasion  to  quote.  He  observed 
to  me,  "  The  governor  informs  me,  sir,  your  trunk  is  under  restric- 
tions, but  your  word  of  honor  as  a  soldier  that  no  papera  shall  be 
taken  out,  and  you  have  free  ingress,  as  usual."  I  gave  it^  and  I 
presume  it  is  scarcely  necessary  to  add  it  was  religiously  adhered  to. 

On  our  arrival  at  Chihuahua  the  general  demanded  my  trunk, 
and  on  its  being  opened  and  the  papers  laid  on  the  table,  he  took 
them  to  hand  one  by  one  and  demanded  what  was  the  purport  of 
each,  which  tntcA  obliged  me  to  declare ;  and  had  I  been  disposed 
to  have  equivocated,  ensign  Walker,  of  his  Catholic  majesty's  ser- 
vice, who  stood  present  and  assisted  in  the  examination,  could  have 
immediately  detected  the  fraud ;  also  his  excellency  understands  I 
sufficient  of  the  English  lans^uage  to  discover  the  general  purport  | 
of  any  paper. 


m 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  IIL 


§9 


iMdMCfiAiA 

luce  th«  go* 
)vcntbi«  «»• 

lold  »•  »  *•• 
lie  moTfOW  h« 

«d  th«  »•»  *• 
8«,u  Fe  were 

j.but  one  C^^o 
put  them  in  my 
at  next  inoTnlng 
med  me  he  had 
thetetwomento 
^atoutgenewled. 
ency  demanded  iC 
whenheob««.rved 
,ttt  in  the  charge 
,a,  for  which  place. 

enant  Don  i'«««''' 
Lave  to  introduce  to 

LpoMesaingallthe 

y  diating«i*«'*  »»« 
,inadetheexpedi- 

,(1  merit,  >who  in  his 

J  of  his  actions,  out- 

,nd  whom  in  my  Cu- 
aote.    He  observed 
U  is  under  restric- 
^  no  papets  shall  be 
I »»    I  gave  it,  and  i 
Liigiously  adhered  to. 

kemanded  my  trunk, 
L  the  table,  he  took 
'  ^as  the  purport  o 

had  I  been  disposed 
ahoUc  majesty's  ser- 
..unation,  could  have 

.cellency  understand 
the  general  purpori 


After  going  thratig  them  In  this  manner  and  Npanthifr  th^m 
iMotwo  piles,  he  observed  to  me,  **  You  will  leave  tboae  papMV  fior 
mjr  Inspection,  and  in  the  mean  while,  In  concert  with  cnalicn  Wal- 
ker (who  will  give  the  Spaniik  tranalatJan>  you  will  give  vu  a  de- 
tailed account  of  your  route,  views,  destination,  kc.  and  during  that 
time  I  wlU  examine  the  pepera  now  before  me.**    To  tbia  I  com- 
piled, flattering  myself  that  It  was  hia  Intention  to  return  me  my 
papers,  by  hIa  demanding  a  sketch }  alao,  so  great  was  my  conftdeoeo 
in  the  all-protecting  name  of  my  eountry^  I  conceived  it  waa  a 
greater  step  than  the  general  would  venture  to  take,  to  selio  on  the 
papers.  But  when  I  had  finished  the  proposed  sketch  and  presented 
it,  and  found  a  still  further  delay,  I  addressed  the  general  on  the 
subject,  when,  after  a  few  days,  some  were  returned  but  I  waa  offi- 
cially Informed  that  "  the  remaining  papora  were  aeised  on,  but 
would  be  kept  In  the  secret  cabinet  of  that  captain  generalship,  until 
the  pleasure  of  his  Catholic  majesty  was  known,"-  at  the  same 
time  presenting  me  with  a  certiticate  specirying  the  number  and 
contents  of  those  detained,  and  added  that  they  were  assorted  by  my 
own  handt  and  voluntarily.    This  assertion  was  so  contrary  to  truth, 
honor,  or  the  line  of  conduct  a  general  should  have  pursued  with  a 
young  gentleman,  that  I  took  the  liberty  of  telling  one  of  the  ofiicers 
who  signed  said  certificate  that  it  was  incorrect.    But  as  Serjeant 
Meek  was  still  in  the  rear,  with  nearjy  all  my  baggage,  I  took  care 
to  give  him  orders  that  none  of  said  baggage  should  be  opened, 
except  by  force,  which  will  evince  that,  although  I  preferred  acting 
like  a  gentleman  to  obliging  general  Salcedo  to  resort  to  rough 
treatment,  yet  that  it  was  not  a  volunteer  surrender  of  my  papers. 
But  the  general  will  please  to  recollect  that  my  journals  were  saved 
at  Santa  Fe ,  which  were  continued  and  are  entire  to  this  post ;  a  for- 
tunate circumstance  of  the  doctor's  having  copied  my  courses  and 
distances  thrr-igh  all  the  route  (except  an  excursion  we  made  to  the 
source  of  the  river  La  Platte)  unto  the  Spanish  territories,  preserved 
them.   These  will  enable  me  to  exhibit  a  correct  chart  of  the  route, 
although  not  so  minutely  as  the  one  seized  on,  which  was  plotted 
daily  by  the  eye  and  angular  observations.    Thus  my  only  essential 
papera  lost  were  my  astronomical  observations,  meteorological  ta- 
bles, and  a  book  containing  remarks  on  minei*al8,  plants,  &c.  with 
the  manners,  population,  customs,  &c.  of  the  savages ;  but  the 
result  of  the  former  were  in  part  communicated,  and  probably  my 
journal  may  supply  part  of  the  balance,  and  our  memories  will  iqake 
the  loss  of  the  latter  of  but  little  consequence.     While  in  the  Spa- 
nish territories  I  was  forbid  the  use  of  pen  and  paper,  notwithstapd* 


m 


Km 


■m 


m 


IP 


iO 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  III 


iog  which  I  kept  a  jouraalt  mtde  meteorological  obBervation8»took 
cotirsee  and  distancea,  from  the  time  I  entered  their  country  until 
my  arnral  at  this  places  all  of  which  I  brought  «tfe  off  in  the  men's 
guKS  (where  I  finally  secreted  my  papers)  without  detection. 

From  our  unremitting  attention  day  and  night*  the  Immense 
territory  they  led  us  throoght  the  bng  time  we  wene  in  their  coun- 
try, I  have  been  able  to  collect  (I  midie  bold  to  assert)  a  correct  ac> 
count  of  their  military  force,  regular  and  irregular ;  also,  important 
and  interesting  information  on  geographical  situations,  political  sen- 
timratts,  and  dispositions  of  the  people  of  every  class,  manners,  arts, 
resources,  riches,  revenues,  value  and  productions  of  their  mines, 
situation.  Sec.  &c.  also,  with  the  annual  revenues  paid  Bonaparte,  and 
had  we  possessed  as  great  a  knowledge  of  the  Spanish  language 
when  we  entered  the  territories  as  when  we  left  them,  our  informa- 
tbn  would  have  been  nearly  as  complete  as  I  could  have  wished  it, 
if  sent  expressly  for  the  purpose  of  acquiring  it,  by  the  open  autho* 
rity  of  his  majesty.  But  the  French  language  was  greatly  benefi< 
cial,  in  which  my  communications  we;d  sometimes  made.  By  the 
Serjeant,  who  is  still  in  the  rear  and  never  suffered  to  join  me,  as 
general  Salcedo  conceived  he  would  probably  procure  some  infor^ 
mation  from  him,  which  he  could  not  if  immediately  under  my 
orders,  I  expect  many  other  communications  of  importance  from 
many  individuals,  who  promised  to  forward  them  by  him.  But  I 
presume  the  general  has  found  himself  in  an  error,  as  I  perceive 
by  a  tetter  from  him  to  governor  Cordero,  the  serjeant  killed  one  of 
his  men,  in  consequence  of  some  improper  conduct,  and  the  general 
accuses  him  of  great  intractibility,  as  he  is  pleased  to  term  it.  From 
the  foregoing'  statement  your  excellency  will  observe  that  I  yet 
possess  immense  matter,  the  result  of  one  year's  travel,  in  a  coun- 
try desert  and  populated,  which  have  doth  been  long  the  subject  qi 
curiosity  to  the  philosopher,  the  anxious  desires  of  the  miser,  and 
tlie  waking  thoughts  and  sleeping  dreams  of  the  man  cf  ambition 
and  the  aafiiring  soul,  and  in  our  present  critical  situation,  I  do  con- 
ceive, immensely  important,  and  which  opens  a  scene  for  the  gene- 
rosity and  aggrandisement  of  our  country,  with  a  wide  and  splendid 
field  for  harvests  of  honor  for  individuals.  But  my  papers  are  in  a 
mutilated  state,  from  the  absolute  necessity  I  was  under  to  write  on  | 
small  pieces  in  the  Spanish  country;  also,  from 'being  injured  ini 
the  gun  barrels,  some  of  which  I  filed  three  times  off  to  take  out 
the  papers.  'These  circumstances  would  make  it  necessary,  in  the  [ 
first  placcy  to  take  a  rqugh  copy  as  they  stand  ;  then  it  will  be  neces-1 
tary  to  assort  the  matter,  as  military,  political,  moral,  trade,  climeJ 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  HI. 


41 


rations*  to<* 
country  «»«» 
f  in  the  iftea'* 
tecdon. 

J,  the  imine^** 
in  their  coun- 
pO  »  correct  ac- 

„,,VK>Utical»en. 
s,  manners,  att8, 
lof  thwr  tnines, 
Ld  Bonaparte,  and 
ipaniah  language 
.em.o«rinfor«»a. 

IdhavewiaV^ed**' 
,y  the  open  auiho- 
.asgreaUy^nefi- 

„ea«a<ie.    By  the 
red  to  join  tne,  as 

,rocttre  aome  info^ 
n^diately  under  'ny 

of  importance  from 

em  by  him.    But! 
error,  as  1  perceive 

Brieant  kWed  one  of 
uU»nd  the  general 

.ed  to  term  it.  F;°«^ 
I  observe  that  1  yet 
travel,  in  a  coun- 
ng  the  subject  Ot 

es  of  the  mi«er,  and. 
the  man  cf  ambition 


kr's 


long 


aoilj  li;c.  ^  norir  fimn  an  undfgested  aiMS :  theni  sb,  the  ecMtbln^ 
ing  each,  the  plotthig,  kc.  would  take  up  a  time  of  eondderaUe 
extent  for  one  mai»f  and.  to  make  duplicates  after  they  K^ere  in 
order  could  not  be  done  in  three  months.    The  general  idwy  recol- 
lect it  was  nearif  that  period  before  my  vepwts  were  completed  last 
year,  although  asustcd  by  Mr.  Nau  and  the  serjeant-major,  and 
sometimes  by  lieutenants  Wi!kiD8<m  and  Sraham.    Also,  with  re- 
'  spect  to  the  Spanish  country,  I  must  know  the  extent  of  the  objects  &| 
view,  in  order  to  embrace  those  points  in  my  reports ;  and  further^ 
my  dear  sir,  my  health  is  by  no  means  the  most  perfect,  my  eyes 
extremely  weak ;  that  it  is  almost  impossible  for  tat  to  continue 
for  one  hour  with  the  pen  in  my  hand,  and  by  that  time  hare  a  con- 
siderable pun  in  my  breast.    From  those  circumstances  my  gene' 
ral  will  perceive  the  almost  imfiractkabiHty  of  my  complying  with 
the  contents  of  his  letter  as  to  duplicate  reports  from  this  place ; 
but  I  shall  immediately  commence  the  business  of  arranging  and 
digesting  my  papers,  and  will  proceed  with  the  labour  with  every 
perseverance  my  situation  will  perriNt  of  until  the  arrival  of  my 
Serjeant  and  the  balance  of  the  party  (should  they  not  retard  more 
than  20  days)  when  I  shsdl  proceed  immediately  to  St.  Louis,  and 
from  thence  through  Kentucky,  Virginia,  Sec.  to  the  federal  city, 
making  no  unnecessary  delay,  and  all  the  whole  of  the  route  prose- 
cuting my  business  at  every  leisure  moment.    When  at  Washings 
ton  I  flatter  myself  with  your  assistance  and  advice.    As  I  propose 
taking  courses,  distances,  Sec.  from  thence  to  St.  Louis,  it  will  be 
malung  the  tour  of  the  greatest  part  of  Louiaiana,  crossing  the 
main  rivers  at  different  points,  when  I  am  certain  with  the  survey  of 
the  Missouri  by  captains  Lewis  and  Clark,  my  own  of  the  Missis- 
sippi, lieutenant  Wilkinson's  of  the  lower  Arkansaw  (which  river  I 
surveyed  to  its  source),  and  Mr.  Dunbar's  of  Red  river,  can  be 
formed  the  completest  survey  of  Louisiana  ever  yet  taken.   ' 

The  instruments  I  had  with  me  I  wish  this  general  to  inform 
me  in  what  light  they  stood,  as  the  most  of  them  were  ruined  in  the 


al  situa       »         ^^^  ■  mou^tgjns  by  the  falling  of  the  horses  from  precipices,  &c.  and  I 

scene    o  « j  |  igft  ^  order  at  Chihuahua  for  the  serjeant  to  sell  them  at  a  certain 

wide  and  spienqiQ  - 


tmypaP^^*'*'^!'''* 
asunder  to  wvue  on 

,nv<being  injured  m 

times  off  to  take  ou 

it  necessary,  m  the  I 


Serjeant 
price,  as  ilie  addition  of  a  land  cnrriage  of  500  leagues  would  not  add 
to  their  benefit.  Baroney,  if  alive,  is  with  my  serjeant,  and  has 
proved  a  noble  fellov  in  hif  line,  und  I  beg  liberty  to  recommend 
him  to  some  appointmv>nt  near  the  Kans,  should  any  offer.  I  must 
further  add  the  follow:  ng  anecdote  of  my  men,  in  whose  breasts- 


*        •      ill  be  neces-llay  the  whole  secret  of  my  papers,  and  whom  I  frequently,  when  in 

^^^  ^  \  trade  cUmeJthe  Spanish  territories,  Was  obliged  to  punish  scverals  for  outrages 
il,  moral,  trauo,  ■ 


ii'" 


"Iril 


>':  ;i 


48, 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  HI. 


commit^dwben  in.  •  state  of  intoxication^  yet  nerer  didone  offer^tr 
sl^ow  a  disposition  to  discover  it.  It  iscirtainrtlifjrknewJnfMnr 
deatA  would  follow. ;  butstill  their  fidelity  to  tbeirtrust  is  remwki- 
ble.  I  hi^ye. charged  them.ai  to  communicatioiisi^nd  shall  dispose 
^f  them :  in  such  a  manner  as  not  to  pot  it  ia  theU*  power  to  -f^ve 
things  much  publicity.  Dr.  RoUnion  has  accompanied  me  the- 
whole  routoyis  still  with  mO)  and  of  whom  I  take  a  pleasure  in  ac- 
knowledging I  have  received  important  serviccstss  my  companion  ' 
indangpra  and  hardshipsr  counsellor  in  di£Eicultiest  and  to  whose 
ohymiqilf  botanicali  and  mineralogical  knowledge  the  expedition 
was  greatly  indfbted :  in  short,  sir,  he  is  a  young  gentlen^an  of  ta* 
lents,  hqnorvand  perseverance)  pojisessing,  in  my  humble  opinion,  a 
inilitary  turn  of  mind,  and  would,  I  believe,,  in  case  of  an  augmen- 
tation pf  the  army,  enter,  if  he  could  obtain  a  rank  above  a, subal- 
tern. I  hope  the  general  will  be  pleased  to  have  my  copies  Jbr- 
warded  by  lieutenant  Wilkinson,  so  that  I  can  command  the  use  of 
them.at  Washington ;  also,  all  my  letters  written  hini  in  the  expc* 
dition,  as  they  contain  informaUon  I  wish  to  refer  to,  and  the  copies 
were  seized.  ^  Dr.  Sibley  has  informed  me  the  expedition  up  the 
Arkiunsaw  is  suspended,  which  supercedes  the  necesuty  of  my  send- 
ing thje  express  ordered,  . 

/  I  congratulate  the  general  on  the  safe  arrival  of  lieutenant  Wilr 
kinson,  and  ana  sorry  tp  hear  of  the  difiKculties  he  encountered.  I 
have  been  obliged  to  draw  money  of  the  Spanish  government,  which 
I  have  to  pay  to  their  ambassador  at  Washington.  I  supported 
those  of  my  men  wilh  me  all  the  time  in  the  Spanish  country,  se- 
parated  fivm  my  Jiaggage,  and  never  permitted  to  have  it  join  roe, 
presented  to  thei  commandant-general  in  a  blanket  cappot :  I  was 
under  the  necessity  of  going  into  very  considerable  expense  to  sup- 
port what  I  not  only  considered  my  own  honor,  but  the  dignity  of 
bur  army.  This,  where  a  captain's  pay  is  2400  dollars  per  annum, 
was  a  ruinous  thing  to  my  finances ;  but  I  hope  it  may  be  taken 
into  due  consideration.  „  ' 

After  making  myself  pretty  perfect  in  the  French  language,  I 
have  obtained  such  a  knowledge  of  the  Spanish  as  to  make  me 
confident  in  asserting,  in  three  or  four  years  I  will  with  ease  make 
mpetf  master  of  the  latter,  Italian,  and  Portuguese,  sufiicient  to 
read  ail,  and  speak  and  write  the  Spanish.  The  doctor  has  even 
exceeded  me  in  that  point.  I  mention  this  to  the  general,  as  I 
know  the  interest  he  takes  in  the  improvement  of  his  military 
protege. 


lone  off«rj«r 

At  is  rerowk*" 
1  ihaU  dispwe 
>  ppwer  td^v* 
^fX&tA  me  the 
^le*forein«c» 
J  roy  comptfnioti 
^  and  to  ^ho«e 
^he  expediUoB 
g«nilen»«m  of  t»- 

umbleopiitton»* 
io  of  an  augmen- 

ik  above  a,wbal. 

«  fnycoP***-^*"' 
mtnandtheuseof 

him  in  the  expe- 
rto,«nd  the  copies 
expedition  up  the 
ce»tttyofn»ya««'*- 

I  of  lieutenant  Wilr 

he  encountered.  1 
government,  which 
jton.  1  supported 
ipaniah  country,  ae- 
1  to  have  it  join  me, 
ket  cappot:  1  vras 
We  expense  to  awp- 
"  but  the  dignity  of 
,  doUaw  per  annum, 
,pe  it  may  be  taken 

» French  language,! 
Lshas  to  make  me 

UillwUhea**"^*'^® 
Luese,  sufficient  to 

Lnie  doctor  has  even 

to  the  general,  a»l 

aent  of  hw  mi^^^^'^y 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  IIi: 


<S 


V^e  had  heard  i>^  ?  Spanish  domir ions  of  the  convuluons  of 
the  westeil)  country,  oi.  I'iating  in  Mr.  Burr's  plans,  and  that  you 
were  implicated ;  sometimes  that  you  was  arrested,  sometimes  ,su- 
perceded,  fcc.  Those  reports  (although  I  never  gave  credit  to 
them)  gave  me  great  unhapplness,  as  I  conceived  that  the  shafts  of 
calumny  were  aiming  at  your  fame  and  honor,  in  a  foreign  country« 
where  they  had  hitherto  stood  hi^,  and  were  revered  and  respected 
by  every  class.  At  St.  Antonio  colonel  Cordero  informed  me  of 
the  truth  of  the  statement,  which  took  a  load  from  my  breast  and 
made  me  comparatively  happy,  and  I  hope  ere  long  will  the  villany 
be  unmasked  and  malignity  and  slander  hide  their  heads.  The  be- 
fore mentioned  gentleman  sent  you  by  me  a  box  of  Spanish  choco- 
late, which  I  shall  forward  to  colonel  Gushing.  Governor  Herrara 
said  the  malidotuneaa  of  the  world  was  such  as  to  forbid  his  writing, 
but  begged  to  be  sincerely  remembered  t^  you.  A  letter  addressed 
to  me  Cincinnatti,  Ohio,  may  possibly  re&c^h  me  on  my  route,  when 
I  hope  to  receive  the  approbation  of  my  conduct.  Many  letters 
written  to  me,  addressed  to  this  place,  have  been  secreted  or  de- 
stroyed  :  possibly  the  general  can  give  me  a  hint  on  the  subject. 

Those  ideds  have  made  a  deep  impression  on  my  mind,  and  did 
not  an  all  ruling  fuution  sway  me  irresistibly  to  the  profession  of 
arms  and  the  fiatha  of  military  glorify  I  would  long  since  have  re- 
signed my  sword  for  the  rural  cot,  where  peace,  health,  and  content 
would  at  least  be  our  inmates,  should  not  our  brov)»  be  crowned 
with  laurel. 

I  must  now  conclude,  ns  this  letter  has  far  exceeded  the  bounds 
proposed  when  commenced ;  but  the  effusions  of  my  heart  are  such 
•n  its  contents,  that  I  could  not  limit  them  to  a  more  contracted 
space.  Excuse  my  scrawl,  as  I  am  entirely  out  of  practice,  but  be- 
lieve me  to  be, 

dear  general, 

with  high  respect  and  esteem, 
your  obedient,  servant, 
(Signed)  Z.  M.  Pike,  captain. 

General  Wilkinson. 


'I 


nil! 


t^ 


•   ^\s.>^ 


^ 


APPENDIX  TO  P^^T  Illi 

[  No.  6.  3 


J%e  committee  ^f  the  houte  iff  refireeentativee^  (ff  the  congreaa  iff  the 
United  Statee^  to  whom  vm»  r^erred  the  reeoiution  to  inquire  whe- 
ther antfy  and  \f  any^  what  com^tenmttion  ought  to  be  made  to  ray). 
tain  Zebulon  M.  Pike^  and  hie  comfiitniontf  /hr  their  eervieet  in 
exploring  the  Mieeiteipfd  rive^  in  their  late  exfiedttion  to  the 
•oureee  (if  the  Otage^  Arkaneaw  and  La  Platte  Hvertf  and  in  their 
tour  through  JVew  Sfiain  :  " 

REPORT.... 

That  it  appears  by  the  documents  accompanying  this  report, 
that  the  objects  of  each  of  the  exploring  expeditions)  together  with 
the  instructions  for  executing  them,  were  communicated  tO)  and  ap> 
proved  by  the  preudent  of  the  United  States;  that  the  conduct  of 
captun  Pike,  in  each  of  the  expeditions,  also  met  with  the  approba* 
tipn  of  the  president,  aall  that  the  information  obtained  and  com- 
municated to  the  executive  on  the  subjects  of  his  instructions,  and 
particularly  in  relation  to  the  source  of  the  Missusippi  and  the  na- 
tives in  that  quarter,  and  the  country  generally,  as  well  on  the 
Upper  Mississippi  as  that  between  the  Arkansaw,and  thd  Missouri, 
and  en  the  borders  of  the  latter  extenuve  river  to  its  source,  and  the 
country  adjacent,  is  highly  interesting  in  a  political,  geographical 
and  hbtorical  view ;  and  that  although  no  special  encouragement 
was  given  to  the  individuals  who  performed  these  laborious  and  dan* 
gerous  expeditions,  yet  it  was  but  reasonable  for  them,  should  they 
fortunately  succeed  in  the  objects,  to  expect  some  regard  from  go- 
vernment ;  that  the  zeal,  perseverance,  and  intelligence  of  captain 
Pike,  as  commander,  has  been  meritorious,  «nd  the  conduct  of  the 
indinduals  generally  who  composed  the  par^»<  respectively,  has 
been  faithful,  and  the  exertions  arduous.  The  tfommittee  therefore 
are  of  opinion  that  compensation  ought  to  be  made  by  law  to  cap* 
tain  Pike  and  his  companions. 

■■*f  *^  *    «  - ' 


■^1— 


DOCUMENTS. 


IVar  Defiartmenti  December  7,  1808.        I  ^on  I 
Sir,  |8pec| 

I  herewith  inclose  copies  of  the  instructions  to  lieutenant  Pike,  I  ^^^^ 
for  the  government  of  his  conduct  on  the  two  exploring  expeditions! 
alluded  to  in  your  letter ;  and  likewise  lists  of  the  names  of  the  men! 
composing  those  parties.    You  will  perceive  that  the  instrucllonslP^'otJ 

ImiJita 


nak^ 


APPENDIX  TO  PARt  hi. 


<5 


:ongret$  if  '*c 
to  inquire  «/»«- 
^e  made  to  eaU- 
heir  tervicet  in 
^dUivn  to  the 

■  '       s 

lying  this  report' 

,»,  together  vitli 
icatedto,»ndap. 
at  the  conduct  ol 
Viththcapproba. 
obtained  and  com- 

.sinstrucdoM,  and 
i3,Appiandthena. 

,fi.dth.Misaoun, 
„  its  source,  and  the 

,UUcal,seograpb»ca 

Val  encourage«»e»^ 
ielaboiiousanddan- 

Kr  them,  sl^o^^  they 
Ime  regard  from  go- 

elUgence  of  capta^ 
dfhe  conduct  of  the 

W  respectively,  has 

Uomtnittee  therefore 

'  ude  by  lavr  to  cap- 


Lembcr  7, 1808. 

Ls  to  lieutenant  Pike, 

Lploring  expeduwnj 
Ihe  names  of  the  men 
that  the  instrucuow 


were  gl^  by  general  Wilkinson ;  the  object  however  of  each  puv 
ift  'ibg6th(>i>  Wlrh  the  ihttructions,  were  communicated  to,  and  ap- 
proved by  the  preudent  of  the  United  States. 

Althbugh  no  Jptecial  encouragement  was  g^ven  to  the  indivi- 
AiuAk,  who  performed  theae  laborious  and  dtmgerous  expeditions) 
ftt  it  unii  but  reasonable  for  tbHp,  should  they  fortunately  succeed 
in  thur  objects,  to  expect  a  liberal  reward  from  the  government ; 
and  ae  there  can  be  no  reasonable  doubt  of  the  seal,  perseverance, 
and  ititelilgenee  of  the  commander,  or  of  the  fiutbful  conduct  said 
arduOiiM  eiertiona  6(  the  individuals  generally,  composbg  the  re- 
icfitec^ve  parties,  it  may,  I  trust,  be  presumed,  that  n6  objection  will 
be  epposed  to  a  reasonable  compensatite  for  such  meritorious  ser- 


vices. 


I  am  very  req)ectfully(  dr, 

.  Your  dbrai^ht,  seHwi^ 


H.  1)XARB0XX. 


Hon.  J.  Montgomery^  chmrmfiny  kifc* 


{copr,) 

Head  Quarter»t  St.  Louie,  July  30t  ISes, 

Sib, 

Having  completed  your  equipments,  you  are  to  proceed  up 
the  Mississippi  with  all  possible  diligence,  taking  the  following  in- 
structions for  youf  Ipeneral  government,  which  are  to  yield  to  your 
discretion  in  all  caias  of  exigency. 

You  will  please  to  take  the  course  of  the  river,  and  calculate 
distances  by  time,  noting  rivers,  creeks,  highlands,  prairies,  islands, 
rapids,  shpals,  mines,  quarries,  timber,  vrater,  soil,  Indian  villages 
and  settlements,  in  a  diary,  to  comprehend  reflections  on  the  winds 
and  weather. 

It  is  interesting  to  government  to  be  informed  of  the  popula- 
Uon  and  reudence  of  the  several  Indian  nations,  of  the  quantity  and 
species  of  skins  and  furs  they  barter  per  annum,  and  their  relative 
price  to  goods ;  of  the  tracts  of  country  on  which  they  generally 
make  their  hunts,  and  the  people  with  whom  they  trade. 

You  will  be  pleased  to  examine  strictly  for  an  intermediate 
I  point,  between  this  place  and  the  Prairie  des  Chiens,  suitable  for  a 
[military  post,  and  also  on  the  Ouiscousing,  near  its  mouth|  for  a 

34 


.11 
lllili 


m 


i 


Ari*]&KDIX  TO  PART  IIL 

similar  establishment,  and,  will  obtain  Um  content  of  the  ladiant  for 
their  erection,  informing  them  thiat  they  are  intended  to  increaio 
their  trade,  and  amelioratip  their  condition. 

You  vijl  P!'Qce.ed  to  ascend  the  ouun  branch  of  the  rirer  until 
yon  reach^  the  sour^ce  of  it,  or  the  season  migr  forbid  your  further 
progress  without  endangering ,  ypw  return}  before  Uie  waters  are 
frozen  up. 

Tou  wili  endeavor  to  ascertun  the  latitude  of  the  most  remark- 
fble  pla<^es  in  your  route,  .with  the  extent  of  the  navigation  and  the 
direcUon.of  Mie  different  rivers  which  fall  into  the  Misuaiippif  and 
you  will  not  fi^l  to  procure  specimens  of  Whatever  you'  may  find 
curious,  in  the  mineral}  vegetable}  or  animal  Idngdoms,  to  be  ren- 
dered at  this  place. 

In  your  course  you  are,  to  spare  no  pains  to  conciliate  the  In- 
dians and  to  attach  thcm^i;)  the  Onited  States,  and  you  may  invite 
the  great  chi^  of  such  wtant  nationa  as  have  not  been  at  tAi»/Uacef 
to  pay  me  a  visit 

Your  own  good  sense  will  regulate  the  consumption  of  your 
provisions,  and  direct  the  distribution  of  the  trifling  presents  which 
you  may  carry  with  you,  particularly  your  flags. 

I  wish  you  a  speedy,  pleasant,  and  safe  tour,  and  am,  sir,  with 
sentiments  of  respect  and  esteem, 

Your  obedient  servant, 
(Signed)  James  Wilkinsok. 

P.  S.  In  addition  to  the  preceding  orders,  you  will  be  pleased 
to  obtain  permission  from  the  Indians  who  claim  the  ground,  for  the 
erection  of  military  posts  and  trading  houses,  at  the  mouth  of  the 
river  St.  Pierre,  the  falls  of  St.  Anthony,  ai>d  every  other  critical 
point  which  may  fall  under  your  observation ;  these  permissions  to 
be  gntnted  in  formal  conferences,  regularly  recorded,  and  the 
ground  marked  off.  J.  W.* 

Lieutenant  Z  M.  Pike^  \st  regt,  infantry. 


War  Department f  February  24,  1808. 
Sir, 

In  answer  to  your  letter  of  the  22d  instant,  I  can  with  plea* 
sure  observe,  that  although  the  two  exploring  expeditions  you  have  I 
performed,  were  not  previously  ordered  by  the  president  of  the] 

*  For  general  Wilkioioo's  further  ioatructiotu,  see  Part  H.  page  107. 


APPENDIX  TO  FAiiT  HI. 


«? 


B^tnt  for 
)  incKMO 

titer  un^ 
our  furthw 
tr«Wf»  •'^ 

ot^remwlL- 
,tloii  tod  *• 

ott  Hftfty  ^"* 
^8,  to  be  ren- 

^iliate  the  In- 
ou  tnay  incite 
n  at  <*»•/»'««'• 

mpUonofyour 
presents  vrVttch 

id  am,  sir,wUU 


United  SuMi)  there  were  frequent  communicationa  on  the  aubject 
of  each,  between  generd  WUkinaon  and  this  departmenr ;  of  which 
the  preddent  of  the  United  States  waa»'(iroiltl  time  to  time,  ac- 
quidnted ;  and  it  will  be  no  more  than  whM  justice  requires,  to  say> 
that  your  conduct,  in  each  of  those  expeditions,  met  the  approba- 
tioto  of  the  present  $  and  that  the  infiM^aUoil  jroitt  obtirfned  and 
communicated  to  the  executive.  In  reladon  to  the  adurce  ef  the  Mb* 
•istipipi  and  the  natives'  in  that  quarter,  and  the  ^xnkniry  generally,  aa 
well  oh>  the  Upper  Misslslippi^  ai  thttt  between  t|ie  Aitaaaaw  and 
the  Missouri,  and  (m  the  border  of  the  laMBr'^sKemdverrivtrto^its 
source  and  the  country  adjacent,  has  been  considered  lugiUy  inte- 
restbg,  in  a  political,  geographidyf,  and  hiteorioal  tiew  And  you 
may  rest  assured,  thftt  your  services  are  held  in  high  estimation  by 
the  provident  of  the  United  State* }  and  if  any  qiinioo  of  my  own 
can  afford  you  any  sadwfaction,  I  very  fraiikly  declare  that  I  consider 
the  public  much  indebted  to  you  for  the  ei^titrprising,  persevering 
and  judicious  manner,  in  which  you  have  pbrfohned  th4m. 
I  am,  very  respectfully,  ur, 

Yourobedicnt  servant, 

'  H/QlVAkliOIiH. 

Cafitain  Zebulon  M.  Pike. 


riLKissow* 

iwUlbepleWed 
.ground,  for  the 
L  mouth  of  the 
Lry  other  critical 
p  permi8«lon8  to 
[orded,  and  the 
J.W.* 


\ry  24,  iSOa. 

Ll  can  with  plea- 
iedltlonsyouhavel 

[president  of  the 


RETURN  

or  PERSONS  EMPX.OTBD  ON  A  TOUR  OV  DlSCOVOlRT  ANb  XXPLORA- 
TION  TO  THE  SOURjOB  0'  TnX  MlSSISStFPI,  {N  THE  TEARS  1.805 
ANQ  1806. 

lieutenant  Z.  M.  PIKE,  < 

Interpreter  PIERRE  ROSSEAU, 
Serjeant       HENRY  KENNERMAN, 
Corporals  J  WILLIAM  E.  MEEK, 
^       i  SAMUEL  BRADLEY, 


PRIVATES. 

Jeremiah  Jackson,  Hugh  Menaugh, 

John  Boley,  Alexander  Roy, 

John  Brown,  John  Sparks, 

Jacob  Carter,  Patrick  Smith, 

Thomas  Dougherty,  Frecgift  Stoiite, 


ti!" 


Jl 


^ 


A^f  E^I^IX  TQ  9AIIT  I|I. 


WillitmOonk^ 
Solotn9|i  I|u4d|i9Stoiiy 
John  MotW^oft 
Theodora  JHiMeVi 


PfMtr  9ru)df9» 


TUt  iMitr  left  $t.  ]Uwii  the  9U»  of  AugvMi  ilPflt*  Wt  h«d  h««» 
detached  for  Uat  d^tjr  fi^HA  the  lit  of  Ji4r^  Tl#r  i«tttni«4  th9 
aoth  of  April,  1801;  ftvm  Mrhiob  time  until  tiw  llth  Jidgri  I  in» 
prapering  for  the  Mcend  eiipediitioQ  to  Uw  Hf  Hvwrdt  wUch  cwnr 
sisttdof  thelhU9wiDgp»i;iqil9i  tpwili 


Capuun 

Lieut. 

Doctor 

Serj*ts 

■    i    . 

Corporel 


Z.  M.  PIKE, 

JAMES  B.  WILKINSON,* 

JOHN  H.  ROBIHSON, 
5  JOSEPH  BAiXiENQER,* 
i  WILLIAM  £.  ME£K,t 

JEREMIAH  JACKSiQN,t 


VmiVATKS 

John  Bolejr,* 
Henrjr  Kennermui, 
Samuel  Bradley,* 
John  Brown, 
Jacob  Carter,t 
Thomas  Doughert]r,t 
William  Gorden, 
Solomon  Hoddlcaton,* 

Interpreter,  BARONET 


Theodore  Miner,! 
Hugh  Menaugh, 
John  Mountjo]r,t 
Alexander  Rof, 
John  Sparks,! 
Patrick  Smith,! 
Freegift  Stoute, 
John  Wilson,* 

VASQUEZ.! 


*  Those  thus  marked  descended  the  Arkansaw  river,  and  ar- 
rived  at  New  Orleans  some  time  about  the       of  February,  1807, 

!  Those  thus  marked  are  still  detained  in  New  Spain. 

The  balance  Arrived  at  the  Nachitoches,  on  or  about  the  1st  of 
July,  1807.  But  it  may  probably  be  better  to  leave  th^9  whole  time 
undefined,  to  be  regulated  by  the  honorable  secretary  of  war. 

Z,  M.  Pi  KB,  major. 


% 


APPimilX  TO  PAST  10. 


»9» 


ly^ 


,  Miner,t 
antjoy»t 
Tks,t 
Stoote* 

TEZ.t 

pnaaw  river,  and  V- 
[of  February,  180^' 
lew  Spain. 
» or  about  the  Istot 
aye  tjT?  whole  time 
ctaryof  war. 

I.  Pi»«»  «n»J®'' 


'  [No.  r. } 

THE  fiMhevlieifig  infermed  that  I  had  tome  aitronomieal  in- 
atiuiMnta  with  ine,  expreaaed  a  deaire  to  see  them :  all  that  1  had 
here  waa  my  lextant  ud  a  hM^  glaaa  which  magnifted'  cor^der- 
ably,  calculated  Ibr  the  day  or  idght,  the  remaiMef  ol  my  fnatni- 
nenta  belttifWith  my  lerieam  and  party.  On  eitomhdnf  the  wti^ 
tant  and  ahewbg  him  the  efbet  of  it  in  the  reflection  of  the  ran«-* 
he  appeared  more  anrprisedt  as  well  at  handredt  WIto  tuirroumitJ 
ut,  at  the  effect  of  tlie  inttmment,  than  any  nation  of  tavaget  I  waa 
ever  among,  and  here  an  idea  struck  me  aa  exUMtordinary,  how  a 
man  who  appeared  to  be  perfect  roaater  of  the  antiei^t  languages,  a 
botanist,  mineralogist,  and  chemist,  should  be  so  ignorant  of  tho 
powers  of  reflection  and  the  first  principles  of  mathematics ;  but  my 
friend  explained  that  enigma,  by  informing  me  of  the  care  the  Spa- 
nish government  took  to  prevent  any  branch  of  science  from  being 
made  a  pursuit,  which  would  have  a  tendency  to  extend  the  views 
of  the  subjects  of  the  provinces  to  the  geography  cf  their  country, 
or  any  other  subject  which  iKMSldbrfa>|;  to  ^wi^  comparison  of  their 
local  advantages  and  tituations  with  other  countHes. 


[  No*  8.  ] 


LBTTnn  TO  OOVUtWOR  ALbBHCAttXR. 


SiR) 


ONthe  arrival  of  your  troops  at  my  encampmenr,  Int  mofftlt; 
under  the  command  of  lieutenant  Don  Ignacio  Saltdo  ^hd'Mr.  Qttir>' 
tholemew ;  they  inftnined  me,  that  your  excellency  had  dire<^ed 
them  to  assure  me,  that  I  should  be  escorted  through  yodr  donil- 
nions  to  the  source  of  Red  river,  as  our  being  on  the  frontiers  of 
your  province  gave  cause  to  suspidop.  I  conceived  it  more  pro- 
per to  comply  with  the  request,  and  repair  to  Saiita'  Pe,  in  order  to 
explain  to  your  excellency  any  circumstance  which  might  appear 
extraordinary,  but  on  my  arrival  here,  I  am  informed  by  your  excel- 
lency, that  it  is  necessary,  that  myself  and  troops  pass  by  Chihuahua 
I  in  the  province  of  Biscay,  more  than  two  hundred  leagues  out  of  my 


iHil 


to 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  III. 


nmt«.  I  have  demanded  of  your  excellency  to  know  if  we  are  to  be 
conddered  aa  priionera  of  war.  You  inform  me,  you  do  not  con- 
dder  ut  in  that  light.  Not  to  embarraas  your  excellency  with  many 
demanda;  I  only  raqueat  to  receire  it  from  under  your  hands,  in 
irhat  manner  I  am  to  consider  myself,  and  the  orders  for  my  pasaing 
ifk\o  the  country ;  also  whether  the  expense  of  the  voyage  ia  to  be 
copddered  aa  dafirayad  by  the  govarmnent  of  Spain  or  the  Unltetl 
tMatea.  Excuse  my  language*  as  I  am  not  much  accuatomed  to 
WfiUng  in  French,  but  your  excelloi^  having  no  person  who  un« 
dytatanda  EngUsh,  obligea  me  to  attempt  the  language. 

lam, sir,  Ice. 
(Signed)  Z.  M.  PiKB^rvn 


V 


,^«^^.V; -  ■ 


ifTfWr-j  n>J  v.^ff.•>iJ^:  f  No.  9..  1 

TRANSLATION. 


iwrtiiq  li  ah 


THE  first  lieutenant  of  the  Anglo  American  troops,  of  the 
name  of  Z.  Montgomery  Pikc^i  with  the  party  of  soldiers  under  his 
command,  having  beer,  met  with  the  troops  under  my  orders,  at 
four  days  journey  fro^n  the  seat  of  government,  in  this  province, 
which  is  under  my  charge,  he  was  required  personally  to  appear, 
which  he  voluntarily  did,  and  cosiolyin'f  with  the  orders  of  the  com- 
mandng  general  of  these  internal  provinces ;  I  bid  the  said  lieu* 
tenant  proceed  od  his  march,  with  his  party  equipped  with  horses, 
provisions  and  equipage,  under  the  charge  of  an  officer  and  sixty 
men  of  our  troops,  with  orders  to  introduce,  him  to  tha  said  com- 
manding general  in  the  town  of  Chihuahua. 

I  pennitted  sud  party  to  carry  their  arms  and  ammimiUon;  actu- 
ated  by  proper  consideration,  and  in  order  to  grant  said  anglo  Ame- 
rican's petition.    I  certify  tlie  foregoing  contents  to  be  accurate. 

Santa  Fct  Mtreh  Zdf  IS07.  .;iVv>r    >; 

(Signed)  Joachin  Rl.  Allvncastbx.  . 


A1>PENDIX  TO  PART  III. 


71 


If  weave  to  be 
ou  do  not  con- 
ncy  with  many 
your  hands*  in 
for  my  pM«»g 
foyagei*^®** 
i  or  the  United 
tcoufltpnied  i» 
pefMn  who  un* 
ige.  ■■  •■•■' 

,,-,♦.  '-'■'' 


ican  troops,  of  tha 
soldiers  under  his 
nder  my  orders,  at 
;,  in  this  province, 
►naWy  to  appear, 
orders  of  the  com- 
II  bid  the  sMd  lieu- 
jipped  with  horses, 
fan  officer  and  sixty 
to  the  said  com- 

I  ammunition  ;ac^* 

nt  swd  anglo  Ame- 
i  to  be  accurate. 

^LLENC^STBR' 


[  No.  10.  ] 

LBTTH  TO  OOTBRXOn  ALLBVCAtTBR. 

St.  Fernandez,  7th  March,  \Wf. 
Sir, 

ON  my  arrival  at  this  yillage,  and  meeting  with  Dr.  Robinaon, 
he  informed  me  that  he  acknowledged  to  lieutenmt  Malgir^t  to  bii^ 
long  to  itay  part^.  At  this  acknowledgment  in  fkct,  only  btereated 
himself,  I  am  comtndned  to  expUdn  to  your  excellency,  myrmaont 
for  ha\'ing  denied  his  connexion  with  me.  He  marched  flfom  St. 
Louia  with  my  detachment,  as  a  TOlunteer,  (after  having  with  much 
pain  and  solicitation  obtained  permisdon  from  the  general  for  that 
purpose  t)  on  our  arrival  on  the  Rio  del  Norte,  (then  aupposed  Reil 
river)  he  left  the  party  in  order  to  come  to  Santa  Be,  with  a  view  of 
obtaining  information  as  to  trade,  and  colleet  some  debts  due  to  per- 
sons in  the  Illinois.  On  my  being  informed  of  his  embarrassmentSt 
I  conceived  it  would  be  adding  to  them,  to  acknowledge  his  haimg 
accompanied  a  military  party  on  to  the  frontiera  of  the  province) 
and  conceived  myself  bound  in  honor  md  friendship  to  conceal  it ; 
hut  his  scorning  any  longer  the  disguise  he  had  assumed,  has  left 
meat  liberty  to  make  this  acknowledgment  to  your  excellency, 
which  I  hope  will  sufficiently  exculpate  me  in  the  opinion  of  every 
man  of  honor,  and  of  the  world,  for  having  denied  a  fact,  when  I 
conceived  the  safety  of  a  friend,  in  a  foreign  country,  was  concerned 
in  t^  ?  event.  The  above  statement  will  be  corroborated  by  general 
Wilkinson,  and  he  will  be  reclaimed  by  the  United  States  as  a  citi* 
zen,  agreeably  to  our  treaties  with  Spain,  regulating  the  intercourse, 
commerce,  &c.  between  the  two  nations.  I  felt  disposed  to  enter 
into  an  expostulation  with  your  excellency,  as  to  the  deception  prac« 
tlced  on  me  by  the  officers  who  came  out  with  your  invitation  to  en- 
ter the  province,  but  will  omit  it,  and  only  request  that  my  Serjeant 
and  party  may  be  ordered  to  follow  with  all  posuble  dispatch,  as  he 
has  all  my  astronomical  instruments  and  clothing,  except  those  I 
now  wear.  I  have  found  lieutenant  Malgares  to  be  what  you  stated 
him,  a  gentleman  and  a  soldier,  and  I  sincerely  wish  the  fortune  of 
war,  may  one  day,  enable  me  to  shew  the  gentlemen  of  the  Spanish 
army,  with  whom  I  have  had  the  honor  of  forming  an  acquaintance, 
with  what  gratitude  I  appreciate  their  friendship  and  politeness,  and 
none  more  highly  than  your  cKcellency. 

With  sincere,  8cc. 
(Signed).  Z.  M.  Pike. 


i 


ii 


APPENDIX  TO  FART  III. 


[No.  II.  J 


LKTTBK  TO  «IS  XXCKLLBlieT  OBUMAL  SALOBDO* 


Chihuahua,  6thJ/nil,  1806. 
Sib, 

HAVING  been  for  near  the  spoco  of  a  jreari  abMiit  from  ny 
coiwtrjrf  (Mid  the  prolMbilitjr  of  iu  y«t  being  two  or  throe  motiiht 
bcfmv  I  arrive  in  the  territorjr  of  the  United  States ;  the  neoeaaitf 
,of  paaaiii(  tbrovgh  tome  hundred  leagues  of  foreign  tenitoryt  with 
the  distressed  situation  of  my  troopit  has  induced  me  to  apply  to 
jour  excellency  for  a  necessary  supply  of  money.  Any  arrangement 
which  may  be  conceived  proper  for  the  remunerationf  I  wUl  cheer- 
fully  adopti  either  to  pay  it  to  the  Spanish  consul  at  New  Orleans,  or 
the  embassador  of  his  catholic  majesty  at  Washington. 

The  sum  which  I  conceive  will  answer  the  present  purposer. 
of  myself  and  troops  in  1000  dollars*  for  which  I  will  give  such, 
vouchers  as  your  excellency  may  conceive  proper. 

I  have  the  honor  to  assure  your  excellency,     t 
of  my  high  respect,  and 

to  be  your  obedient  servant, 
(Signed)  Z.  M.  Pixb. 


(    iNO.    18.  ] 

TRANSLATION. 

ACCEDING  to  the  solicitation  you  have  made  in  your  letter 
of  yesterday,  that  from  the  royal  treasury  of  this  place,  there  should 
be  delivered  you  one  thousand  dollars,  (which  you  say  are  necessary 
for  tiiO  accomodation  of  the  troops  of  the  United  States  of  America, 
which  you  have  under  your  charge)  or  whatsoever  other  sum  you 
choose  to  demand ;  and  the  government  of  the  said  United  States 
shall  refund  the  said  sum  to  the  Senor  Marqvr^  t\e  Car*'^4  Yrujo. 
I  have  directed  the  formula  lor  you  to  sign  of  ^miv  <x  "rt*.  ;>onding 
and  qu;>druplicate  receipts. 

God  preserve  you  many  years, 
(Signed)  Nimebio  Saluedo. 

JMhuahua^  7th  J/tril,  1807. 

Tor  tb.^  Ist  lieut.  Montgomery  Pike. 

Tn  >.3ii'ted  (cfisi  the  original,  by  Z.  M.  Pike,  captain. 


aivefumx  m'o  vaxt  ra; 


7» 


*:•*  t>^v*Ute 


[  N»  13.  > 


fin7,  IW«- 

j,Mnt  from  ^y 
r  thrte  »o«»^^** 
i  the  necwrity 

nterrltoryi^fit^ 

1  ni«  to  «ppiy  *• 

^y  •Tf»ng«menl 
o„,l  vUl  cheer- 
NewOrtetn»,o« 

;ton. 

present  purpo^'' 

^  1  will  give  »«ch, 

• 

ency* 

tervantt 
Z.  M.  P««»- 


♦1 
1 


Lede  in  yoor  letter 
1  place,  there -hould 

L»y»««"«*^***"^ 
I  Swtet  of  America, 

K,ver  other  sum  you 
fe  said  United  States 

c:  '\c  CarAYrujo. 
fduv  ^/'T*- rending 


bars, 

IE5IO  SAtCEDO- 


Ike,  captain. 


Ske^e^    fait  tw/MMmtmH^  ff&m  «.  L«u<*>  lo  ^ruto^ thf  AMtfrMfl 
;karf«'4^  1.0MdiMUl,lf^  Ci^rr  (/  Av«  faitfUtnt^,  get*  fti^Jmt^ 

•     f?ZflMM0»rir  VVI   .7AJ 

'  1  BftDASXBDt  I* Bdl* FiMine^ dh tMBiisMuriy (nfeaf  ^« 
ooniki«»MlrMi  the  Mi«lMippfr>mth  a  oomniiiiA  oCor^  lfate>i»>r 
eiie  dbeimva  fiahMMiMd,  twai  leiljeMilAy  one  eor^ore5  sex  ^tM»pr. 
vatesyand  one  UnerpveMr  ^  hefiaBendep  mif  ohirgey  clg^«t  o»  Mn 
Oiege  chtQl  ,  wlioi  hadt recently  returned  franvri  visit  tD<tlie  ity  of< 
W»  ' '-r  •!>>  ''^Ihdfr  ndtlv  abowl M  men^iitotoen  and  children, e£ 
t'  .^  SMt«>h4i  m,  vedeeMedifroni  entxit^^y  A«"»'  Miethev  Indiin  nft- 
xk'^. ;  «}  two  Fanilieee  who  hid  likeiHee  boe»  to  the  cky  of  Was.  • 
ingtonk 

We  aacended'tHe  Missourir  vhler  to*  the  river  df  the  Osagey  up 
which  WK  aseendbdto  the  OM^eitomMk  and  aiMveden  o^alioat^h» 
l>»tb  of  A^gttst^  eM  dbUvewi^lvtheikr  natMi  In  Mfttf  liheir  oUefi^ 
Women  and  childreHi  uMi  fc|Meohde  ttf  tlw>nMMk 

Here  I  renudwi*  makilg:  astranoiilcaV  cMetwiiioiis^  and  pee^ 

paUng  for  any  nt:ireh  bf  kndmtilr  ttie  1st  of  Septeniber,  wlish  we 

coek  our  depavtvrtt'  fiir  thv  Fawileeire|NibIid«  acooaspallieA  bf  sonnf 

Osage  chieiw  who  werd  depatedibf  their  Mtirar to  fonmi  m  trmyefi 

peace  and  amit^iiAth  th#nation'of the  Kant  (with  wtoiAPtlMjr>wea» 

then  at  war)  under^the  au^eee  of  tlM  ISMtefd  ^fii.    ttMndftlO 

the  Pawneet  republic  abeiN  the  9scl»  of  siM  month,  w6«ra'9  oateadl 

to  be  held  a  conference  between  the  Osage  and  Kans  chiefi^aMi 

mediated  a  peace  for  the  two  naticM. '  After  having  iMhl  cMincils 

with  thd  Pawnees,  naadvastvoniomloalobtervMtbMittte;  I'  iiaicliwi 

from  the!  slaid  viMage  on  the  7th  of  OctelkiVanid  arrived  aiPfbe  Aiw 

kansaw  on  the  nth  of  die  said  month,  wfleM  We  reoiahwd'iMtUlhif 

Mth,  pieparingcoanoes^  <ce.  for  lieatenanc  Wilkinson,  wUO'diiaoendN 

edithe  said  viver^  With  one  seijeanti  ^  wtm^esM  two  Oiige  Ihdianaa 

Doting  mji  stay  at  said  river,  lilikewiae  made  astronOMtlcalebsiiw 

vatioris.    Oft  the  said  clay  I  marehed  with  the  remaJMdW  ef  tlM 

iiarty  xip  the  Arkansaw,  and  nothing  ooenrned  worthy  of  nottr  until 

■bout  the  middle  of  November,  when  we  met  a  paitf  of  Pilvwneea^ 

of  60  warriors,  who  weM  returning  fVom  anekpkldltion.agfliMsttfaflr 

Kayawaya:  at  fira  aur  coofetrence  was  of  the  ihosi  fHektdlynaturcr, 

and  I  made*  them  some  small  pvesentsy  but  they  comm<sneing  to 

steal  and  plunder  whatever  they  couhl  wlrii  invpUnityv  iNPufMi  fifiei^ 


;i!*^ 


i     il 


74 


APPENDIX  Tn  PART  UI/ 


Be  '^j|'' 


m.  m 


•■<*<i. 


oblif^ed  to  take  to  our  arms,  and  were  on  the  point  of  coming  to  ho»« 
tilities.  when  the  Pav/nees  retiried,  and  we  pursued  our  march.  Vffi 
arrived  where  the  Arkansaw  enters  the  mountains,  on  the  4th  or  5th 
Decetttber^  AiHiere  we  remained  until  the  9th}  searching  for  the  route 
across  th«.mountains^when  we  marched  by  a  trace  which  we  dis> 
covered,  leaving  the  main  Arkansaw  to  our  left ;  and  much  to  our 
astonishment  I  arrived  about  the  middle  of  said  month  on  a  water 
ctf  the  Missouri,  Miich  I  ascertained  to  be  the  tiyer  Flatte;  on 
which  we  discovered  signs  of  immense  numbers  of  Indians  t  here 
we  ren.  <  ned  a  few  days  searching  for  those  Indians,  in  hopes  toob> 
tain  from  them  infurmation  as  to,  a  route  to  cross  the  mountains  to 
the  west,  but  not' discovering  any,  we  crossed  a  large  chain  by  a 
practicable  route,  and  fell  on  a  targe  branch  •'of  water  which  I  then 
conceived  to  be  the  head. of  the  Red  river.  Here  we  remained  a  few 
days  to  recruit  our  horses  and  ourselves,  when  I  ordered  the  party 
to  proceed  down  said  river,  and  I  with  two  men  ascended  it  to  its 
source*  inhere  I  made  some  observations.  I  then  returned  and 
overtook  the  party,,  when  we  continued  to  descend  said  stream,  until 
the  perpendiciilarity  of  the  rocks  and  other  difficulties  had  rendered 
it  impossible  to  proceed .  any  further  with  horses,  several  of  which 
had  already  been/killed  by  falling  from  the  rocks,  S(C. 
.i,f  (Lthen  caused  sleds  to  be  constructed,  and  soldiers  to  draw  the 
baggage  on  the  ice,  and  ordered  a  few  men  to  endeavour  to  conduct 
the  horses  by  a  more  eligible  route  out  of  the  mountains ;  at  the 
extreniity<of  which.  «re  all  arrived  by  the  9th  of  January,  and  found 
that  w<  had  descended  the  main  branch  of  the  Arkansaw,  conceiving 
it  to  be  the  Red ,  rivery  and  was  now  at  the  same  point  I  left  on  the 

fthult.:'     •  ^  >     ■>:> 

Myiremaininig;  hor&e».  being  in  a  situadon  not  to  allow  me  to 
hope  for  any  further  assistance  fr6m  them,  unless  permitted  further 
to  recover :  as  this  woujd  have  engrossed  a  long  time,  I  determined 
to  leave:  some  men  with  the.  horses  and  part  of  the  baggage,  and 
proceed  with  the  remunder  and  the  articles  absolutely  necessary  on 
foot,  (^n  the  14th  January,  having  constructed  a  small  place  for 
my  men  and  baggage  who  remained,  we  marched,  proceeding 
up  a  western  branch  of  *he  Arkansaw,  which  appeared  to  lead  in  a 
direct  route  through  the  mountains.  On  the  20th  of  said  month, 
being  obliged  to  cross  a  prairie  of  some  leagues  in  breadth,  late  in 
the  evening,  (many  of  the  soldiers  having  their  feet  wet)  had  it  not 
in  our  pc^wer  to  make  fire  until  eight  or  nine  o'clock  at  night.  We 
were  00  utifoitunate  as  to  ascertain  that  nine  of  the  party  were  fio- 
.  The  ensuing  day  discovering  that  they  were  not  able  all  to 


APPEKDIX  TO  PART  IH. 


75 


:oming  to  ho»- 
ar  march.  ^^ 
i  the  4th  or  5th 
ng  for  the  route 

which  vre  dis- 
^nd  much  to  our 
wnthonavrater 

iver  J?fa«*»  ^"^ 
>f  Indiana  I  here 
,»,inhopeatoob. 
the  mounttdns  to 
large  chiun  by  a 
ater  which  I  then 
,e  remained  a  few 

ordered  the  party 

ascended  it  to  its 
then  returned  and 
d  said  stream,  until 
oWea  had  rendered 
s,  several  of  which 

isoldiewtodrawthe 
Udeavour  to  conduct 
[e  mountains  J  at  the 
January,  and  found 
irkansaw,  conceiving 
Je  point  Ueft  on  the 

I  not  to  allow  me  to 
PM  permitted  further 
|g  time,  1  determmed 
1  of  the  baggage,  and 

Llutely  necessary  on 

led  a  small  place  for 
narched,  proceeding 
1  appeared  to  lead  in  a 
i20th  of  said  month, 
les  in  breadth,  late  in 
]r  feet  wet)  had  it  not 
Vclock  at  night.    We 
|of  the  party  were  fvo- 

'  were  not  able  all  to 


mareh,  we  remained  a  few  days  to  lay  in  provisions,  when  I  left  two 
soldiers  and  four  loads  of  our  baggage,  and  proceeded  on  our  march ; 
but  on  the  third  day,  finding  another  of  my  men  not  able  to  march, 
was  obliged  to  leave  him  encamped,  but  previously  furnished  him 
with  sufficient  provision.  We  then  crossed  another  chain  of  moun- 
tains, and  on  the  Ist  February  arrived  on  the  waters  of  the  Rio  del 
Norte,  (which  I  then  conceived  to  be  the  Red  river)  as  some  maps 
which  I  hold,  portrayed  the  source  of  the  Red  river  to  tie  betweM 
those  of  the  Arkansaw  and  Rio  del  Norte.  I  then  proceeded  to 
choose  a  station  where  there  was  sufficient  wood  to  form  canoes  or 
rafls,  in  ordisr  to  descend  the  supppsed  liver  to  Natchitoches. 

Having  in  many  instances  experienced  the  insolence  and  pre- 
suming dispositions  of  the  Indians,  when  in  superior  numbers,  I 
conceived  it  proper  to  throw  up  a  small  work  for  the  protection  of 
ourselves  and  baggage)  until  wr.  should  be  prepared  to  descend  the 
river. 

Four  or  five  days  after,  I  dispatched  five  of  rhy  men  to  returti 
to  those  I  left  in  the  mountains,  and  bring  them  on  if  capable  of 
marching;  if  not,  to  supply  them  with  provision  and  bring  on  the 
l>3ggage.  Dr.  Robinson,  who  had  hitherto  accompanied  me  as  a 
volunteer,  having  some  pecuniary  demands  in  the  province  of  New 
Mexico,  coiic<tived  that  this  would  be  the  nearest  point  from  which 
he  could  go  in  and  probably  return,  previous  to  my  being  prepared 
to  descend  the  river :  left  me  on  the  7th  February  with  that  view.' 
A  few  days  after,  hunting  with  onS^'sf  my  men,  I  discovered 
two  men  on  horseback.  I  would  have  avoided  them  agreeably  to  my 
orders,  but  finding  they  continued  to  pursue  us,  I  conceived  it  most 
proper  to  endeavour  to  bring  them  to  a  conference ;  which,  with 
great  difficulty  I  effected,  as  they  appeared  to  be  apprehensive  my 
intentions  were  hostile  towards  them.  I  conducted  them  to  my 
camp,  and  informed  them  of  my  intention  to  descend  the  river,  and 
made  them  some  small  presents :  had  they  then  informed  me  of  my 
being  on  the  Rio  del  Norte,  I  should  have  immediately  retired ;  but 
they  having  executed  their  commission,  returned  the  following  day 
on  the  immediate  route  to  the  settlements.  The  following  day  the 
party  I  had  detached  for  the  men  whom  I  had  been  compelled  to 
leave  in  the  mountains,  returned  with  one  only,  and  all  the  baggage, 
the  other  two  not  being  able  to  come  on.  I  then  immediately  dis- 
patched my  Serjeant  and  one  man,  to  order  and  conduct  on  the  men, 

I  horses  and  baggage  left  on  the  Arkansaw  by  a  route  which  I  con- 
ceived practicable.    On  the  24th  or  25th  of  February,  in  the  morn- 

jing,  two  Frenchmen  arrived  at  my  camp,  and  informed  me  that  idi ' 


ill 


I  I 


Mill 


r6 


APPGMDtX  TO  PAItT  lU. 


.  ''hi- 


officer  and  £fiy  men  lef  Ms  oathdic  oiaJMty'i  ,tf!M|w  )iM  nM»<<4ii9^ 
from  Saau  Ft,  io  Ankr  to  prptect  me  fiwtR  ^  Uit«^s«  (who  KmI 
exhibited  a  jdispoaltion  to  attuck  me)  and  ikovU  probiblf  %e  at  n»y 
camp  >ui  two  or  tbnc  days.  |n  the  cMirao  of  two  or  three  Jhour«,  I 
aras  infomedibjr  a  aentim^  whom  I  aiways  kept  on  f  hUl,  «fthie  ap- 
proach of  a  party  of  strangensi  and  in  a  abort  period  thittrp  arrived 
t|vo  officera  and  )iOi9  meui  at  a  amaU  ^stance  ^xwo  the  cump  -, 
tii0  iieutMant  con^miwidant  hiviog  ^Bntered  my  worlw  ky  mf  invita- 
liao,  informed  me«  thstihp  goTjsriiQr  of  Nev  ^«^co  had  been  io' 
ioroMd  of  my  vtuation,  and  undentanding  I  waa  bo^nd  for  Red 
river,  off^vd  m»  apy  a^ustance  which  lay  in  hia  power  to  accomq- 
datiB  BObe.  I  replied  that  I  "afo^d  in  Q9  n^P^  of  ajs^aunpe }  that  I 
^couid  deicend  tho  river  fvith  craft,  which  I  jproposed  fMjp^tructing. 
He  thfa  infprimed  me  I  ivat  on  the  Rio  del  Nprte)  (whiph  aatoniahed 
mue  extremely)  a^d  that  the  apurce  of  the  lied  rivf  r  was  ei^ht  days 
inarch  below  Santa  Fe ;  and  that  the  governor  being  informed  th«t 
Ihadmisaed  my  route,  offered  me  mules,  horses,  Ccc.  to  conduct 
jfn§  to  th^  Red  river,  and  wished  to  see  me  at  his  seat  pf  govern- 
mient.  I  told  him  that  if  the  whole  of  my  party  were  here,  I  would 
not  heaitate  to  pay  my  respfects  to  his  ^xcel^ency  with  one  or  two 
men.  Be  «hitp  assured  ptf  that  therp  was  not  the  least  con- 
atnuot ;  that  I  could  go  in  before  or  ftft^r  the  arrival  of  {nay  pwpy,  as 
my  ioclicatioo  dictated ;  that  if  I  we^t  in  now,  he  would  leave  an 
Utah  iQtarpdretpr  and  one  in^,  with  th^  men  pf  my  party  J  chose  tp 
leave,  in  order  to  canduct  on  thp  serje^t  and  party  when  they  ar- 
rived. I  finally  condudad  it  would  bp  more  c^maist^nt  with  the 
good  understanding  which  existed  betwaenthe  govemroant  of  the 
United  States  and  his  cathojic  majesty,  to  proceed  to  Santa  ?«,  and 
give  to  governor  Allencast^r  an  explanation  of  my  being  on  his  fron- 
iciera.  We  then  marched  iof  his  pamp,  about  12  miles  diatant, 
leaving  the  interpreter,  one  Spfmish  so|dipr,  a  corporal  and  one  prl* 
vate  of  my  detachment,  with  orders  for  the  conduct  of  my  aerjeant 
when  he  should  arrive. 

The  next  day  I  was  much  surprised  to  find  the  lieutenant  and 
all  tlte  regular  troops,  except  IQ,  were  ahput  to  remain,  and  that  the 
militia  officer  was  to  conduct  me  to  Santa  Fe ;  the  lieutenant  girin|:  I 
as  a  reason,  the  pmicular  orders  to  see  9it  my  party  in  safety  at  the 
capital.    We  arrived  at  the  said  town  in  four  or  five  days,  where  I 
wasreceivcd  at  first  in  a  manner  very  different  from  what  I  had  been 
taught  to  expect  fi^om  the  proffers  of  the  lieutenant  in  the  name  of  I 
the  governor.    The  arms  of  my  men  being  taken  possession  of  by] 
tile  guard  the  first  night  of  my  amvai,  without  my  Knowledge,  andl 


ATPEMDIX  TO  PAST  in. 


»f 


■ 


^.ppi  itb«  cwwP » 

«  bomid  for  ^^^ 
,o«er  to  «ccomq- 
^^ist»l»pe  i  that  I 
«)8ed  pop^tructing. 
(V^iph  »»toni«b«i 
l,^p^wpightd»y» 
•ing  informed  lh»t 
lei,  lie.  to  conduct 

jiUwatof  gO*«"'- 
werp  hew,  X  would 

ncywihoneortwo 
not  the  least  con- 

r,h«  would  leavuap 
niyp«trtyXcho.etP 

.  party  wl»«»*«y  *'^' 

L  gotcrnrowtofthe 

teedtoSant»?P»a"<^ 
Ly  being  on  Wsfron- 

out  13  mil^*  <*'*■*•"*' 
corporal  undone pn- 

luct  Qfi»y«n«"^ 

Rpd  the  lieutenant  and 

,  remain,  and  that  the 

the  tteutenant  giving 
.pariyinwfctyatthe 

|r  or  five  days,  where  I 
I  from  what  I  had  been 
futenantinthenameofl 

Itakenposwswo"^^'^^, 
lut  my  knowledge,  and 


being  likewise  informed  that  Dr.  Robinson  was  a  prisoner  at  some 
leagues  distance ;  they  induced  me  to  believe  that  a  rupture  had 
taken  place  between  Spain  and  the  United  States,  and  to  address  a 
letter  to  the  governor,  dciaanding  if  I  was  to  condder  myself  and 
party  as  prisoners  of  war  ;  and  if  the  expense  ariung  from  the  deten- 
tion of  myself  and  party  was  to  be  defrayed  by  the  United  States  or 
hifi  catholic  majesty.    To  this  his  excellency  gave  me  a  yry  polite 
verbal  answer,  assui'ing  me  tb^t  I  was  by  no  i«eans  to  conuder  my- 
self as  a  prisoner ;  that  the  arms  of  my  men  were  taken  unknown  to 
hiii|,  and  slurald  be  immediately  restored*  but  that  it  was  necessary 
I  should  march  immediately  to  join  lieutenant  Malgwes  and  party, 
who  were  waiting  for  me  at  the  village  of  St.  Fernandez,  in  order  to 
conduct  me  to  Chihuahua,  to  be  presented  to  the  commandant  ge- 
neral with  my  papers  for  an  explanation.    On  my  arriving  at  said 
village,  I  addressed  a  letter  to  the  governor,  informing  him  that  Dr. 
Robinson  had  accompanied  my  party  as  a  volunteer,  which  I  had 
not  acknowledged  at  Santa  Fe,  as  I  was  apprehensive  that  his 
coming  on  to  the  frontiers  of  the  province  with  a  military  party,  in 
case  of  a  rupture  between  the  two  governments,  might  place  him  in 
a  critical  situation. 

The  lieutenant  only  further  observes,  that  he  has  not  entercr! 
into  the  particulars  of  thp  hardships  undergone,  as  that,  enduring 
thirst  and  famine  for  three  or  four  days,  at  Afferent  periods ;  march- 
ing over  ruggid  mountains,  through  snowa  three  and  four  feet  deep ; 
their  bodies  exposed  to  every  inclemency  of  the  weather,  for  want 
of  clothes,  carrying  at  the  same  time,  packs  of  60  or  70  pounds  bur- 
then ;  in  short,  every  hardship  which  a  savage  life  in  its  greatest 
state  of  barbarity  is  exposed  to,  are  circumstances  only  calculated  to 
excite  humanity,  and  not  give  explanation  as  to  the  general  chain  of 
events  connected  with  the  voyage.  He  therefore  refers  his  excel- 
lency to  the  commander  in  chief  of  the  United  States  army  for  an 
explanation  of  the  general  intent  and  nature  of  the  expedidon,  and 
to  his  notes,  astronomical  observadons  and  charts  for  the  courses, 
situadon,  &c.  of  the  different  points  and  rivers  alluded  to  in  the  fore- 
^ing  sketch. 


_i-i6 


n 


AIPPBNDIX  TO  PART  III. 


[  No.  U.  1 

CMAuakmi  \4th  4/*rUt  nor. 
Sir* 

ON  my  inarching  from  Santa  Fo)  governor  Allencatter  in> 
formed  me. that  my  papers  would  be  considered  as  a  sacred  depot 
until  my  arrival  at  tl^is  place,  when  your  excellency  would  ezaniine 
and  take  them  into  consideration. 

When  they  were  examined  and  taken  possession  of,  I  expluned 
without  disguise  the  nature  and  contents  of  each,  conceiving  that 
thoae  only  which  had  any  relation  to  the  object  of  my  expedition 
could  be  interesting,  and  that  merely  a  copy  of  the  chart  and  trans- 
lation of  the  official  papers  would  be  taken.  You  must  be  conscious, 
sir,  that  it  was  in  my  power  to  h^ive  secreted  or  destroyed  every 
trace  of  my  voyage  and  plans  previous  to  my  arrival  at  Chihuahua, 
but  resting  satisfied  that  no  rupture  had  taken  place  between  his  ca- 
tholic majesty  and  the  States  1  have  the  honor  to  serve,  which  would 
be  a.  justification  for  the  seizure  of  my  papers ;  I  prefered  leaving 
them  in  statu  quo,  to  using  duplicity,  which  in  some  degree  always 
implicates  the  character  of  a  military  man. 

Admitting  the  country  which  I  explored  to  be  contested  be- 
tween the  two  governments,  each  naturally  wishing  to  gain  some 
information  as  to  its  geographical  situation,  in  order  that  they  may 
form  correct  ideas  as  to  what  would  be  their  mutual  interests,  found- 
ed on  justice  and  the  honor  and  the  dignity  of  the  nation  in  forming 
the  line  of  demarcation.  This  was  the  view  of  the  United  States 
government  in  the  expedition  which  I  had  the  iionor  to  command^ 
and  the  loss  of  the  geographical  sketches  taken,  might  be  the  occa- 
4on  of  a  suspension  of  the  final  line  of  limits,  and  consequently  the 
delay  of  an  amicable  adjustment  of  the  now  existing  differences  be- 
tween the  two  governments. 

Your  excellency  may  not  have  an  intention  of  detaining  my  pa- 
pers, which  I  had  only  began  to  suppose  from  your  returning  part  by 
lieutenant  Walker,  in  which  case  you  will  pleas  to  excuse  this  in- 
trusion ;  but  I  will  add,  that  if  you  have  it  in  view  to  detain  the  pa- 
pers, I  request  you  will  be  pleased  to  examine  them  with  particular 
cure,  and  you  will  find  that  there  are  letters  from  general  Wilkin- 
son, as  well  as  his  son  to  me,  also  from  the  latter  to  his  father  and 
mother,  and  others  which  are  by  no  means  of  a  political  nature,  or 
at  least  not  relative  to  the  relations  exiting  between  the  government 
of  Spain  and  the  United  States,  aad  therefore  can  by  no  means  be 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  III. 


r» 


»rtf,  i8or. 

Allenca«t«r  in- 
,  a  sacred  depot 
would  «»nuiie 

iof,Iexpl«4»«* 
conceiving  that 
•  „y  expedition 
chart  and  trana- 
ua^be  conaciout, 
deatroyed  every 
,al  at  Chihuahua, 
e  between  his  ca- 
5rve,  which  would 

[  prefered  leaving 
me  degree  always 

be  contested  be- 
ling  to  gain  some 
xler  that  they  may 
al  interests,  found- 

naUon  in  forming 
'the  United  States 

[>nor  to  command, 
night  be  the  occa- 
consequentiy  the 
,g  differences  be- 

kfdetwning  my  pa- 
ir retm-n'mg  part  *>y 
1  to  excuse  this  in- 

iw  to  detain  the  pa-  . 
lem  with  particular 

Im  general  Wilkin- 
ler  to  his  father  and 
1  political  nature,  or 
Len  the  government 
tan  by  no  means  he 


mteretting  to  your  excellency.  The  book  which  conudnt  my  charts 
also  9ontain8  part  of  the  blotters  of  a  voyage  to  the  source  of  tho 
Missisuppi,  which  I  presume  cannot  be  interesting  to  the. Spanish 
goretnment. 

"'>'■  'But  to  conclude,  I  have  only  to  request  of  your  excellency  to 
know  if  h  is  your  intention  to  detain  my  papers  nowin  your  posaeth. 
sion ;  if  so,  that  you  may  cause  me  to  be  furnished  (or  suffer  nse, to 
take)  a  copy  of  them,  and  that  I  may  receive,  a  dectificate  from'in^ 
der  your  hand,  of  the  number,  nature.  Sec.  of  the<  said  papers,  and  lb* 
reasons  for  their  seizure  and  detention,  in  order  that  my  govern- 
ment  may  be  tinaUed  to  make  the  proper  appUcatliMi  to  the  Spa- 
nish court  for  an  explanation.  My  reason  for  applying  to  your  ejc 
cellency  so  early  on  this  subject,  is  that  oh  the  arrival  of  my  men, 
who  are  still  in  the^retarj  I  might  be  {mpared  to  march  in  a  short 
period  of  time,  (for  under  the  present  aspect  of  affairs)  I  feel  con- 
scious that  I  am  as  anxious  to  arrive  on  the  territories  of  the  United 
States,  as  your  excellency  must  be  for  me  to  quit  the  dominions  of 
his  catholic  majesty. 

In  all  events,  I  hope  you  will  believe  me  to  be  with  the  highest 
sentiments  of  personal  respect, 

Tour  most  obedient  servant, 
(Signed)  Z.  M.  Pike, 

His  (excellency,  brigadier  g^erat  Don  Nimealo  Sftlcieido,  command- 
ing-general of  the  ihteriot'  province  of  the  klh||dom«f  New 
Spain.-     •■^'•"'  "'     '-'  ''•-^'-•'■^    '.■n..ar...    .  ;;    ■.■r^mrntf 


■11  >fh  ■' 


[  No.  15.  1 

;  TRANSLATION; 

OF  the  papers  connected  with  the  expedition,  which  by  orders 
of  the  United  States  government,  you  have  made  from  the  St.  Louis 
of  the  Illinois,  unto  the  settlements  of  New  Mexico,  and  which  you 
yourself*  separated  from  those  which  you  brought  here  and  put  into 
my  hands  the  day  you  arrived  in  this  town.  There  has  been  formed  an 
inventory  and  certificate  respecting  each  of  them  accompanying  it  to 
you,  and  deposited  in  the  (^ce,  the   17th  current*  fop  the  purpose 

*  See  my  account  of  die  seiaure  of  my  paper*,  April  ik,  z8o/.> 


tia 


AFVEVRyiX  TO  WfOftm. 


t9Mr«iiifl«i«tiMd;  tb*  >uil{^«nt  on  whiktli  renMiin.ibrii«d9ol. 
4Mof  UwUnftiny  kivd^and,  ihdl  be  i-qMirted  kt  the  Mcretav^ 
tflilfM  of  this  €Apu&n  genenddyr ;  and  medktimg  thiit  you  kaiiw  kidi/- 
cated  in  your  summons  official  to  this  government,  the  greatest  de* 
dto  to  arrivo  ad  the<  tetritorns  of  the  Umte4  ScsttfSf  have  i>e4»lv£d 
tiMt  yon  preparer  to  ceminve  your  vograge  in*  two  or  three  day  a;,  iiv 
eonoaqoeiiee  ofidiicfa,  iba  arranyeanenla  neoeasarf  afatll  bd^madOy 
attehaa'yoor^thithepeo^  of  your  expe^tion  hinM»oxperienced 
«mU  )«uff  arrival  ae  this  jplaee. 

God  preserfelydu-^atiany^earflit. 
(Signed)'  liiieaaiorSAtLeBBfo. 

lai  Lieiite»t»itof  Inibits^  Mantgmftery  Pikoi 
ir^^Trattsilired  fiiMii^4ifipia{inalr  tty  Z.  M;  Bitte^ capldili. 


1o  ^UtfJl.Hl 


I  No..  L6.  J 


TRANSI^TION. 


■tm: 


M  .X 


4i/i  IMVENnCQUYoCfMiperawh^h.  tbe  lieutenant  of  infantry  of 
tyheUlMMted States  (^  Ataeticai  Montgomery  Pike».in  the  superior 
government)  and  commandant  general  of  the  internal  provinces  of 
New  Spain,  as  belonging  to  a  voyage  which  he  executed  from  St. 
Louis  up  the  Illinois  to  the  population  of  New  Mexico,  to  visit  the 
Indian  nations,  and  reconnoitre  tfie  country  and  intermediate  rivers, 
as  it  appears  his  expedition  was  undertaken  by  provision  of  the  go- 
vernment of  the  said  United  Staffet  and  the  orders  of  general 
Wilkinson. 

No^  1.  Letter  from  general  Wilkinisa  to^  Pike,  dated  34th  June, 
1806. 
3.  Another  ftmn*  the  same  to  Pfte^  18th  Julyi  180«. 

3.  Another  from  ^m  aanrie  to  tiw  same  officer,  ,19th  Julyj  1 806. 

4.  Another  fVOM  the  same  taPike^  dated  6th  August,  1806. 

5.  Letter  ^m  Ueutonanv  Wilkinson  to  his  father,  37th  October} 

li06v 
6»  Another  from  the  same  to  the  same,  seth  October,  1«06. 
X.  Letter  from  Pike  to  general  Wilkinson,  33d  July,  1806. 
8^  Letter  from  lieutenant  WiUunson  to  lieutenant  Pike,  36tb 

Ootobcr,  1806'.  .  ^!'i^''  ^ ' 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  III. 


M' 


Lhe  •ecrot.a** 


cai 


iptilti. 


«aBt  oi  infantry  «f 

L,.inlhea«penor 

\temal  provinces  of 
executed  from  bt. 

Mexico,  to  Vmt  the 
Ltermediate  rivers, 
'provision  of  the  go- 
1    orders  of  general 

Le,  dated  34th  June, 

Il«4  ISO*. 

rjer,mhJa\yi^8<>«- 
Ith  August,  1806. 
[father,  STth  October, 

]th  October,  l«06. 
lieutenant  Pil^«»  2^*  I 


9.  Proclamation  of  general  Wilkinson,  prohibiting  any  citiMn 
of  the  United  States  trading  with  the  Indian  nations  with- 
out his  permission,  or  that  of  the  government,  dated  10th 
July,  1805. 

10.  A  letter  from  Charles  Junot,  agent  for  the  Indians,  to  gene- 

ral Wilkinson,  dated  lUth  July,  1806. 

1 1.  Notes  of  lieutenant  Pike  on  the  voyage  from  New  Mexico,  to 

Chihuahua,  of  four  pages. 
13.  A  rough  manuscript  of  the  Missouri  and  Osage  rivers. 

13.  Letter  from  sergeant  Ballenger  to  general  Wilkinson,  with* 

out  date. 

14.  Letter  from  lieutenant  Wilkinson  to  Pike,  without  date. 

15.  A  certificate  in  the  French  language  of  a  certain  Baptist  La- 

mie,  found  among  those  nations,  and  q;>ecifying  his  mo« 
tive  for  being  there. 

16.  A  bundle  of  papers  in  the  French  language,  which  contained 

notes  on  the  harangues  and  manifestoes  which  lieutenant 
Pike  had  delivered  to  the  Indian  nations. 

17.  A  passport  of  lieutenant  Pike  to  the  Indian  Winapicaneya 

cai^ain  of  the  little  Osage. 

18.  A  small  draught  or  map  of  the  country  which  is  situated  be- 

tween the  Mississippi  and  Santa  Fe,  with  a  description  of 
that  town,  and  of  having  met  with  three  thousand  Ca- 
manches. 

19.  A  book  8  vo,  manuscript,  which  contains  the  di&ry  of  lieu- 

tenant Pike,  from  January,  1807,  to  the  2d  March  of  the 
same  year,  when  he  arrived  at  Santa  Fe,  in  75  pages. 
ZO.  A  book  4to.  manuscript,  in  paste-board,  with  copies  of  letters 
to  the  secretary  of  war  and  general  Wilkinson,  and  various 
observations  relative  to  the  commission  of  the  lieutenant^ 
in  67  pages. 
21.  A  manuscript  book  in  folio,  containing  different  plans  of 
countries,  &c.  with  a  diary  with  Rhumbs  distances,  and 
worked  observations  and  meteorological    tables,    which 
arose  from  a  revisal  of  the  voyage,  by  the  said  lieutenant 
Pikc;  in  40  pages. 
Don  Franciso  Valasco,  first  officer  of  the  secretaries  of  the 
commandant  generalship  of  the  internal  provinces  of  New  Spain, 
and  Juan  Pedro  Walker  Alferez,  of  the  company  of  horse  of  the 
royal  presidio  of  Janos. 

We  certify  that  the  lieutenant  of  American  infantry,  Montgo- 
mery Pike,  when  presented  to  the  commandant  general  of.  the  be- 

26 


r  - 


9$  APPENDIX  TO  PART  III. 

fere  mentioned  provinceit  Don  Nimetio  Selce4lo»  Ukewiae  produceil 
a  smell  trunk  which  he  brought  with  himi*  and  that  in  the  presence 
of  the  undersigned,  opened  himself»  and  took  out  different  books 
and  papers,  when  having  separated  with  his  own  handsy  under 
our  cognisance,  all  that  appeared  to  be,  or  that  he  said  was  piivate, 
or  had  no  connection  with  the  voyage ;  delivered  the  remainder  to 
the  demand  of  the  commandant  general,  which  were  solely  those 
comprehended  in  the  foregoing  inventory  which  we  have  formed, 
and  for  the  verification  of  which  we  have  signed  these  presents  at 
Chihuahua,  the  8th  of  April,  1807. 

(Signed)  Franciso  Valasco. 

Juan  Pseao  Walker. 
Translated  from  Uie  original,  by  Z.  M.  PiliO}  captain. 


[  No.  ir.  ] 

ChihuahuatJtfiritAtAflSOr. 
Sir, 

I  H'^PE  your  excellency  ra$j  not  uttrihute  it  to  presumption, 
or  a  disposition  to  intrude  when  I  address  you  on  a  subject  foreign 
from  my  official  dnties,  and  on  which  I  can  only  spealc  as  an  indivi- 
dual, but  I  should  feel,  myself  wanting  in  humanity,  and  that  atten- 
tion which  every  man  owes  to  his  fellow  creatures  in  distress  should  I 
remain  silent ;  and  more  especially  when  those  who  are  compatriots 
and  some  former  companions,  now  in  a  strange  country,  languishing 
out  their  days,  far  from  their  friends  and  relations,  without  scarcely 
a  dawn  of  hope  remaining  of  ever  again  being  blest  with  the  view 
of  their  native  homes,  It  it  scarcely  necessary  to  add  that  I  allude 
to  the  unfortunate  companions  of  Nolan,  who  having  entered  the 
territories  of  his  catholic  majesty  in  a  clandestine  manner,  equally 
in  violation  of  the  treaties  between  the  two  governments,  the  laws 
of  the  United  Slates  and  those  of  Spain,  could  not  be  reclaimed  or 
noticed  by  their  country ;  yet  from  every  information  I  have  receiv- 
ed on  the  subject,  the  men  of  the  party  were  innocent,  believing 
that  Nolan  had  passports  from  the  Spanish  governor  to  carry  on  the 
traffic  of  horses.  I  pretend  not  to  justify  the  many  irregularities  of 
their  conduct  since  in  the  Spanish  dominions,  but  hope  that  it  may 


*  The  want  of  candor  exhibited  in  the  certificste  is  manifest,  and  was  an  im« 
becile  attempt  to  shew  that  all  017  actions  were  voluotary,  and  that  io  the  delivery 
ef  mj  papcn  th«re  was  ao  degree  of  coaatraist. 


wUc  produced 
n  the  presence 
different  books 
I  hMKli,  under 
lid  was  piivate, 
e  remainder  to 
>re  solely  those 
ve  have  formed, 
hese  presents  at 

LASCO. 

Walks*' 

captain« 


,  it  to  presumption* 
n  a  subject  foreign 

lity,  and  that  atten- 
iniUatreas  should  I 
rho  are  compatriots 
ountry,  languishing 

»8,  without  scarcely 

West  with  the  view 

to  add  that  I  allude 

p  having  entered  the 

ine  manner,  equally 
vemments,  the  laws 
not  be  reclaimed  or 
nation  I  have  rccciv- 
innocent,  believing 
srnor  to  carry  on  the 
,any  irregularities  of 
but  hope  that  it  may 

|manifert,indwasanim- 
-and  that  in  t^'*^""^ 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  III.  •• 

be  viewed  with  an  eye  of  clemency,  as  they  are  most  of  tbem  rerj 
illiterate,  and  possessing  scarcely  any  part  of  an  education. 

David  Fero  was  formerly  a  subaltern  in  a  company  of  infiuitrjr 
of  the  United  States,  commanded  by  ny  father  at  the  time  I  senrsd 
as  a  volunteer,  but  left  the  service  (as  I  have  been  informed)  owing  to 
some  irregularities  of  conduct ;  his  having  been  once  my  companion 
entitles  him  at  the  present  to  my  particular  attention ;  yet  I  will 
herii  mention  to  your  excellency  a  circumstance  which  may  appear 
if  known  in  an  unfavorable  light,  viz.  About  1 5  days  past  I  was  in- 
formed Fero  was  in  town,  and  that  he  desired  to  see  me.  I  was  ex- 
tremely mortified  at  receiving  the  information,  as  I  conceived  he 
must  have  left  his  post  in  a  clandestine  manner,  yet  I  could  not  find 
in  my  heart  to  refuse  the  interview,  which  I  gaye,  but  determined  at 
the  same  time  to  inform  you  of  the  circumstance,  conceiving  that 
you  could  not  look  on  it  as  a  matter  of  much  criminality. 

But  to  conclude,  I  have  to  beg  of  your  excellency,  if  in  your 
power,  and  consistent  with  the  line  of  conduct  you  conceive  proper 
to  pursue,  to  inform  me  if  any  thing  can  be  done  towards  restoring 
these  poor  fellows  to  their  liberty,  friends  and  country,  and  in  a  par- 
ticular manner  I  intercede  for  Fero. 

If  it  is  out  of  the  power  of  the  general  to  grant  them  leave  to 
return  to  the  United  States,  I  beg  to  know  if  there  b  any  objection 
to  my  taking  out  letters  to  their  fathers,  wives  fcc.  I  should  not 
have  addressed  this  letter  to  the  general,  had  I  not  conceived  the 
fate  of  those  men  alluded  to  was  at  his  disposal,  as  he  had  suffered 
one  of  them  to  join  the  service  of  his  catholic  majesty ;  nor  neither 
do  I  request  the  honor  of  any  other  than  a  verbal  reply,  as  I  write 
in  the  character  of  an  individual,  and  not  as  an  officer  of  the  United 
States. 

I-am,  ur. 

With  high  consideration. 

Your  humble,  obedient  servant, 
(Signed)  Z.  M.  Pike. 

His  excellency,  general  Nimesio  Salcedo. 


[  No.  18.  3 

Mttc/dtocheay20thJu^^tf  1607. 
Sir, 

PREVIOUS  to  my  departure  from  Chihuahua,  we  had  entered 
so  fully  into  the  subject  of  the  seizure  of  my  papers,  that  I  should 


Hit 


«*  APPENDIX  TO  PART  III. 

nerer  hare  madt  another  appeal,  utitil  I  made  one  through  our  g«- 
vemment  to  the  ambatiador  of  hit  catholic  niujeatjr,  had  1  not  re« 
ceived  orders  to  that  effect ;  it  not  being  known  at  the  time  those 
iDStructions  were  givent  that  the  proprietf  of  the  seizure  had  beet, 
contested  between  your  excellency  and  myself.  But,  as  you  have 
now  had  time  fully  to  re  consider  the  business,  it  may  not  appear  in 
4be  same  light  that  it  did  when  I  had  the  honor  to  address  you  be* 
lore.  Your  excellency  may  be  induced  to  conceive  that  the  mea- 
-surt;  of  seising  my  notesi  plans,  meteorological  and  ostronomical  ob- 
Mrvatioas,  Gcc,  for  parts  of  the  Mississippi,  Missouri,  Osage,  Kans 
and  Arkansaw  rivers ;  waters  acknowledged  by  the  Spanish  govern- 
meiit  to  be  within  the  known  territories  of  the  United  States,  may 
not  be  justifiable.  Whatever  may  be  your  opinion  on  those  subjects 
I  am  ut  an  entire  loss  to  conceive,  how,  and  upon  what  principle  you 
could  involve  in  that  seizure,  letters  from  individuals  to  individuals, 
Che  contents  of  which  could  in  np  wi99  be  interesting  to  the  Spaniitii 
government, 

I  have  therefore  once  more  to  appeal  to  your  e^cellenr.j ,  with 
a  hope  that  the  time  you  have  had  for  deliberation  may  induct  /ou 
to  conceive  it  proper,  and  but  an  act  of  justice  to  deliver  up  the  pa- 
pers sdz«d  at  Chihuahuaj  and  hope  your  excellency  will  have  llic 
goodness  to  address  them  to  me  in  a  packet,  to  the  care  of  the  com- 
manding officer  of  this  place. 

If  the  continuation  of  an  amicable  underslAndiug  between  the 
two  nations  is  an  object  of  estimation  in  tiie  mind  of  your  excellency, 
the  final  demarcation  of  limits  myst  be  considi  rod  as  the  first  great 
step  to  be  taken  towards  its  accomplinhnient ;  and  to  enable  my  go- 
Tjernment  to  form  a  correct  idea  on  that  subject,  it  was  requisite 
they  should  be  well  acquainted  with  the  geographical  situation  of  the 
heads  of  the  Arkansaw  and  Red  rivers,  the  jbrmer  part  of  which  I 
had  accomplished,  and  could  with  all  ease  have  carried  the  remain- 
ing part  of  that  object  into  execution,  (after  discovering  my  mistake 
of  the  Rio  del  Norte  for  the  Red  river)  had  I  been  permitted  by  the 
governor  of  New  Mexico,  instead  of  which  I  was  hurried  tlirough 
the  country  to  Chihuahua,  without  having  time  given  for  the  absent 
part  of  my  party  and  baggage  to  join  me,  by  which  means  I  was 
obliged  to  appear  in  a  garb  and  manner  entirely  incompatible  with 
the  rank  I  have  the  honor  to  hold,  and  in  some  degree  un  indignity 
Co  the  country  whose  commission  I  bear.     Atul  to  add  to  my  morti- 
fication, was  then  deprived  of  the  information  1  had  obtained  at  tho 
r^que  of  our  lives  and  the  suffering  of  unknown  miseries.    The  in- 
forppatio!)  gontained  in  my  notes  were  npt  only  of  a  geographical  na* 


APPENDIX  TO  PART  HI. 


ougln  OUT  fS^ 
,  had  1  not  re- 
he  lime  thoie 
xure  h»d  beei. 
it,  a«  you  have 
notappow*" 
kddress  you  be- 
e  that  the  mea- 
stronomical  ob- 
ri,  Osage,  Kana 
Spanish  govern- 
ited  States,  may 
n  those  subjects 
lat  principle  you 
kh  to  individuals, 
,g  to  the  Spanish 

e^cellcnnv,  with 
»  may  induce  /ou 
ieliverupthepa- 
ncy  will  l-.Ave  ^hc 
B  care  of  the  com- 

iding  between  the 
.  your  excellency, 
i  as  the  first  great 
toenable  my  go- 
it  was  requisite 
ical  situation  of  ibe 
er  part  of  which  I 
arried  the  rcmain- 
.cring  my  mistake 
n  permitted  by  the 
s  hurried  tluough 
iven  for  the  absent 
„hich  means  I  was 
incompatible  with 
legree  an  indignity 
[o  add  to  my  morti- 
,ad  obtained  at  tho 
liiiiseries.    The  in^ 
a  geographical  na* 


tura,  but  also  luch  ai  would  enable  the  executive  of  the  United 
States  to  take  some  steps  to  amellonte  the  berberous  state  of  verioui 
savage  tribes  whom  I  visited;  and  I  may  be  permitted  to  eddy 
would  have  added  in  Home  small  degree  to  the  acquirement  of  tdf 
enee,  which  is  for  the  general  benefit  of  mankind. 

When  I  left  Chihuahua,  I  was  informed  my  sergeant  and  pertjr 
were  detained  near  the  place,  in  order  that  thej  •Ao«/d  ntt  be  per> 
mitted  to  join  me.  That  by  a  separate  examination  they  might  bo 
intimidated  to  make  a  declaration  to  justify  the  conduct  observed  to- 
wards us.  This  I  am  conscious  must  have  failed,  but  am  at  an  en- 
tire loss  to  conceive  why  they  should  have  been  detained  unUl  this 
time,  when  your  excellency  assured  nte  they  should  follow  immedi- 
ately. Their  detention  has  been  of  considerable  private  injury  to 
^nyself,  and  an  insult  to  my  government. 

When  I  marched  from  Chihuahua,  your  excellency  officially 
informed  me  that  every  thing  was  prepared  for  my  transport  to  our 
lines,  but  was  much  surprized  to  have  to  pay  for  the  hire  of  horseSf 
&c.  demanded  of  me  at  the  first  place  where  we  changed  our  escorts; 
as  I  neither  conceived  it  just  that  I  should  pay  for  an  involuntary 
tour  I  had  taken  through ^our  territories,  neither  was  I  prepared  to 
do  it }  but  as  your  officers  were  responsible,  and  gave  their  receipta 
for  the  transport,  and  from  the  orders  received  by  captain  Viana  at 
Nacogdoches,  I  was  obliged  to  hire  beasts  to  take  me  to  Natchito- 
ches, although  an  escort  of  your  troops  were  furnished. 

I  here,  with  the  greatest  ple'\sure  embrace  the  opportunity  of 
acknowledging  the  polite  treatment  I  received  from  your  officers  in 
general  on  my  route  ;  but  in  a  particular  manner  to  colonels  Cordero 
Herrara ;  to  captains  Barelo  and  Viana,  with  lieutenant  Malgares ; 
to  all  of  whom  it  would  be  my  greatest  pleasure  to  have  it  in  my 
power  to  return  the  compliment. 

Will  your  excellency  do  me  the  honor  to  present  my  high  re- 
spects to  your  lady,  and  my  compliments  to  Mr.  Truxillo  and  father 
Rocus. 

I  am,  sir. 

With  the  most  profound  consideration, 
Your  obedient  servant, 
(Signed)  Z.  M.  Pike,  captain. 

His  excellency  governor  Salcedo. 


AH>£MDIX  TO  PART  HI. 


f  No.  19.  ] 

nesLLMHT  gfH^ 

ON  the  16th  of  Pebruarf  If.at,  John  Robinson  appeared  before 
Ibe  gorernor  of  N«w  Mexico,  saying  that  he  wai  a  Frenchman)  in- 
hahkahtof  St.  Louiti  which  place  he  left  on  the  iSth  June  last  year, 
whh  the  view  of  gtrfng  to  the  country  of  the  Pananas  to  malte  re- 
toveries  *,  that  having;  receifed  information  that  his  debtors  had  di- 
rected their  stepH  to  said  province,  he  had  concluded  to  follow  them, 
In  company  with  15  other  persons,  who  went  for  the  purpose  o( 
hmitfng  on  the  rivers  of  Arcs,  Arkansaw  and  Colorado;  (Red  river) 
that  in  the  neighbouring  mountains  the  two  last  of  his  company  had 
left  him,  for  which  reafton  he  saw  himself  under  the  necessity  of 
proceeding  to  the  Yutas  Indians,  to  whom  he  exposed  his  situation, 
and  who  accordingly  agreed  to  conduct  him. 

On  the  S5th  of  the  same  month  of  February,  at  the  distance  of  4 
days  march  from  tlie  town  of  fianta  Fe,  and  9  leagues  west  of  its  set- 
tiement,  at  the  place  called  the  Ojocaliente,  (Hot  Spring)  near  the 
confluence  of  Rio  Grande  del  Norte,  (QMat  North  river)  and  that 
known  under  the  name  River  de  los  Conejos,  (of  Rabbits)  a  detach- 
ment of  the  garrison  of  said  province  of  New  Mexico,  met  Montgo- 
mery Pike,  first  lieutenant  of  the  infantry  of  the  United  States,  with 
eight  men  of  the  said  infantry ;  who  on  being  given  to  understand 
that  he  ~must  be  conducted  to  said  town,  consented  to  accompany 
them.  It  was  then  settled  that  two  of  his  men  should  remain  on  the 
spot  with  half  of  his  catholic  majesty's  detachment,  to  wait  for  six 
others  who  had  not  yet  arrived,  and  he  proceeded  to  the  governor's, 
to  whom  he  declared,  that  his  being  in  that  neighbourhood  was 
owing  solely  to  his  having  been  lost,  and  having  mistaken  the  Rio 
del  Norte  for  the  Colorado.  But  this  officer  in  compliance  with  the 
orders  of  this,  hlr  superior  officer,  forwarded  the  said  first  lieutenant 
with  the  six  men  of  the  American  army,  and  the  above  mentioned 
John  Robinson  to  this  capital. 

They  arrived  here  on  the  2d  instant,  and  said  officer  on  being 
presented  to  me,  laid  before  me  in  the  same  manner  as  he  had  done 
to  the  governor  of  Santa  Fe,  the  papers  relative  to  his  mission ;  the 
correspondence  he  had  carried  on  with  your  excellency  since  it  com- 
menced, with  his  journals  and  note  books. 

Your  excellency  is  not  ignorant  of  the  repeated  representations 
made  by  the  king's  minister  in  the  United  States,  and  by  the  mar- 
quis of  Cassa  Calva  while  he  was  in  Louisbna^  summoning  the 


APPENDIX  TO  PAWr  III. 


8T 


ppeared  before 
FrenchmMijin- 
June  last  year, 
as  to  maVe  re- 
debtors  had  dl- 
to  follow  thero, 
the  purpose  o\ 
kdo;  (Red  river) 
\\t  company  had 
the  necessity  of 
Bed  his  situation, 

* 

t  the  distance  of  4 
Bs  west  of  its  set- 
Spring)  near  the 
th  river)  and  thac 
Rabbits)  a  detach- 
|ico,  met  Montgo- 
nited  States,  with 
.en  to  understand 
ited  to  accompany 
,uld  remain  on  the 
kt,  to  wait  for  six 
,  to  the  governor's, 
[eighbourhood  was 
mistaken  the  Rio 
(inpUance  with  the 
(aid  first  lieutenant 
above  mentioned 

lid  officer  on  being 
Incr  as  he  had  done 
lo  his  mission ;  the 
[uency  since  it  com- 

[ted  representations 
L,  and  by  the  mar- 
la,  summoning  the 


American  government  to  carry  into  effect  any  projects  of  nltMinf 
its  expeditions  into  territories  unquestionably  bclongiftg  to  his  mar 
jesty;  you  must  th»reiurc,  without  any  further  obscrvat^s  or  re- 
marks on  my  part,  be  h  <tisfied,  that  the  documents  contain  evidentt 
unequivocal  proofs, thuian  offence  of  magnitude  has  been  committed 
against  his  majesty,  and  that  every  individual  of  this  party  ought  t» 
have  been  considered  us  prisoners  on  the  very  spot,  notwithstanding 
sur.h  substantial  and  well  grounded  motives  that  would  have  war- 
ranted such  a  measure.  Wishing  to  give  the  widest  latitude  to  th* 
tubsisUng  system  of  harmony  and  good  understanding,  nnd  above 
all,  finally  persuaded  that  your  excellency  will  take  such  steps  at 
your  judgment  may  suggest,  as  best  calculated '  to  prevent  any  bad 
consequences  on  the  occasion,  I  have  concluded  to  keep  in  this  ge- 
neral government,  all  the  papers  presented  by  lieutenant  Pike,  and 
to  g^ve  him  and  his  men  full  liberty  to  return  to  your  excellcncf» 
after  having  treated  them  with  attention,  and  offered  them  every  M- 
aistance  they  stood  in  need  of. 

I  am  without  reserve, and  beyond  expression, your  most  obedient* 
humble,  and  respectful  and  faithful  servant,  and  prayeth  Qod  may 
preserve  your  excellency  many  years. 

(Signed)  Salcbdo. 

CMhuahuOf  Bt A  ^firil,  1807. 
OeneratJamea  WUkintvn, 


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